Pepper for prosperity - PeaceTrees Vietnam
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Indigenous foods Louise Penny Travel to Vegas THE MAGAZINE FOR COSTCO MEMBERS Pepper for prosperity A unique program in Vietnam yields special results 20 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 KIRKLAND SIGNATURE Product deep dives Kirkland Signature cooking oils CANpC1_PeaceTrees_EAST.indd 1 2020-07-21 2:31 PM
COVER STORY PeaceTrees pepper In creating Kirkland Signature™ products, Costco buyers often play a direct role in how the items are made. For food items, this means working closely with growers, producers and other entities to ensure success for everybody. Here’s the story of a unique case in Vietnam involving the production of Costco’s Kirkland Signature ground pepper. by Tim Talevich CONTINUED ON PAGE 22 ROBERT PAETZ 20 Costco Connection SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 CANp20_24_CoverStory_PeaceTrees.indd 20 6/23/20 3:06 PM
Ho Thi At is one of the family farmers growing new pepper vines in Vietnam. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Costco Connection 21 CANp20_24_CoverStory_PeaceTrees.indd 21 6/23/20 3:06 PM
PEACETREES PEPPER CONTINUED FROM PAGE 20 T he road from Hue passes along Vietnam’s coastal plain, past rice paddies and small lowland farms, through Dong Ha and Khe Sanh, then begins a long climb westward into the lush mountains along the Laotian border. I am travelling today with buyers from Olam, a global food company, and Olde Thompson, a California company that manufactures Kirkland Signature™ spice products, to the Huong Hoa dis- trict. Here, a number of farming families have started planting pepper vines. Through a program supported by Costco That’s where PeaceTrees Vietnam and these suppliers, farmers in this dis- (PTVN) enters the picture. Founded in trict are hoping to become part of the 1995, PTVN’s mission is to help rebuild thriving pepper supply chain in Vietnam, Quang Tri’s communities by clearing the which is the world’s largest producer of land; building schools, libraries and com- this everyday spice. Costco uses munity centres; and providing expertise Vietnamese pepper for its Kirkland to farmers to grow profitable new crops Signature pepper products. (see “Building bridges” on opposite page). The rich soil and seasonal rainfall PTVN started working with farmers here offer ideal conditions for pepper. in this area in 2015, explains Ha Pham, Growing on flowering vines, pepper can a Vietnamese woman who serves as be cultivated by small-scale farmers, and PTVN’s in-country director. In response can bring in higher prices than rice and to the growing global demand for pepper, other crops. But first a life-threatening PTVN offered to teach these farmers the obstacle has to be overcome: After all best methods for planting and growing these years, the land is still riddled with pepper vines. Also, farmers who sign up unexploded bombs, grenades, land mines to participate in the pepper program have and mortar shells from the Vietnam War. their plots cleared by a specially trained The heaviest bombing of the war took explosive ordnance disposal (EOD) squad place here in Quang Tri province, on the managed by PTVN. southern border of the demilitarized zone Costco’s role is to help secure market that separated South and North Vietnam. access for the local farmers. To date, 60 Since the war ended, thousands of people farmers have joined the program. The have been killed or injured by stepping first pepper crops were harvested in late on unexploded ordnance in the area. 2018. The two annual yields have been modest, but it’s a start, Pham says. 22 Costco Connection SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 CANp20_24_CoverStory_PeaceTrees.indd 22 6/23/20 3:06 PM
New schools are essential to healthy towns in Quang Tri province. But first, the land must be cleared of unexploded bombs. Building bridges PeaceTrees Vietnam (peacetreesvietnam.org) was founded in 1995 with a mission of building bridges of peace and friendship between America and Vietnam as the countries’ relationship normalized after the Vietnam War. Over 25 years, the Seattle-based non-profit organization has financed programs to clear PHOTOS: TIM TALEVICH unexploded bombs, land mines and other ordnance from the land; teach local residents about the risks of mines; build schools and libraries to educate future generations; and support economic development for Clearing the land stacked around the hole; smaller explo- sustainable prosperity. On our way to the pepper farms, we sives have been set around the bomb to stop in a rural area where an EOD team destroy it on-site. PTVN was started by Jerilyn is actively clearing a field. Working with A technician strings a detonator wire Brusseau and her husband, bombing maps from the war provided by to our group, some 90 metres away, and Danaan Parry. Brusseau’s the U.S. government, PTVN has identi- nearby farmers are warned through a brother, Daniel Cheney, was killed in the war when his fied this area as still dangerous from bullhorn to stay away. A countdown helicopter was shot down cluster munitions—bombs containing proceeds to zero, and I’m motioned to while providing support for smaller bomblets that disperse in a wide push the detonator button. A startling a downed fellow pilot area. These bomblets had a notoriously explosion shakes the earth and a white (who was rescued). The high failure rate—possibly 30%—Pham plume drifts above the area. organization was modelled explains. The maps were accurate: The Since 1995, PTVN has removed more on other international PeaceTrees programs that team found 228 unexploded bombs in a than 100,000 dangerous land mines, foster friendship between 25-acre area. bombs, mortar shells and grenades from foes by planting trees in Meticulously scanning the dirt step over 1,000 acres of land. Villagers have war-torn areas. by step with metal detectors, the team is been able to move back into these areas hurrying to finish the job within a two- and build homes and schools—and use The group’s first project month window, as farmers will soon start the fields to farm again. However, it’s was to sponsor clearance and plant trees on 16 acres planting cassava and peanuts here. We estimated that only 20% of Quang Tri in Quang Tri province. are informed that a small bomb was province has been cleared to date. Today, the area is known as detected shortly before our visit. the Friendship Forest Park The EOD team has cordoned off the Offering a market, and more and features 2,000 trees area with yellow tape. We’re shown a hole Costco has been sourcing pepper from planted by volunteers from that has been carefully dug around an Vietnam for several years to meet growing around the world.—TT oblong metal object sunk into the earth, global demand, says John Lee, a Costco about a metre deep. Sandbags have been CONTINUED ON PAGE 24 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 Costco Connection 23 CANp20_24_CoverStory_PeaceTrees_R1.indd 23 8/31/20 1:57 PM
PEACETREES PEPPER CONTINUED FROM PAGE 23 Three years after planting, vines are producing pepper for Quang Tri’s farmers. Costco and several partners are helping these farmers get their harvest to market. PHOTOS: ROBERT PAETZ spice buyer. Pepper grows in limited Olam for ongoing agricultural assistance tropical regions. After the war ended, it and to sell their pepper.” slowly gained prominence as a viable He adds, “Training isn’t anything with- crop for Vietnamese farmers, but most of out market access. We gave them that.” the growth has been in the past decade as global demand has skyrocketed. While Helping communities be successful touring pepper farms, Lee learned about The story of Quang Tri pepper is PTVN’s efforts to expand pepper-growing representative of Costco’s goal in sourc- farms to Quang Tri province. ing food products, especially those Lee says Costco was interested in offered under the Kirkland Signature supporting the program, as were Olde brand. The goal, spelled out in Costco’s Thompson and Sahale Snacks, which col- Sustainability Commitment, is to sup- laborated with Costco to donate a port farmers and their communities portion of product sales to PTVN. Later, so that they can be successful in the Olam, which partners with Costco to long run. The benefit to Costco is a source pepper in Vietnam, agreed to sustainable source of food products in provide technical expertise to the new the face of growing global demand, says pepper farmers. Sheri Flies, who oversees Costco’s sus- With this corporate support in hand, tainability efforts. PTVN tapped the local Women’s Union, In this case, many stakeholders took an organization that supports women’s risks with unique contributions to make rights in communities throughout the program work. The pepper crops COSTCO Vietnam, to lead the project. Union bring commerce to the villages, comple- CONNECTION members set up a demonstration pepper menting PTVN’s schools, community plot and served as the main contact for centres and mine-awareness education You can find Kirkland Signature farmers on best growing practices. programs to rebuild Quang Tri’s commu- Whole Black Now, the PeaceTrees pepper is har- nities. “It’s a matter of self-sufficiency, Peppercorn (Item vested and processed to go into the larger women’s empowerment and market #164950), and a Vietnamese supply that makes up Costco’s access,” Flies says. variety of other Kirkland Signature™ ground pepper. Pham agrees. “If we didn’t have the Kirkland Signature “It’s not a huge amount of pepper participation of these companies, it spices, in your local Costco and for in comparison to the total amount we wouldn’t work,” she says. “The only way home delivery source in Vietnam, but it’s a start,” says to support people in the long term is to through Costco Lee. “As the program becomes estab- help them find work and provide for Grocery at lished, it’s possible that more farmers themselves. These partnerships introduce Costco.ca. will join in and make it a larger crop. the opportunities for better incomes. This And now, these farmers have access to way, the communities will thrive over the long run.” 24 Costco Connection SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 CANp20_24_CoverStory_PeaceTrees.indd 24 6/23/20 3:20 PM
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