New hopes for outdoor recreation - State advisory body receives new mandate Cork county high point - Mountaineering Ireland
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Autumb 2019 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 131 New hopes for outdoor recreation State advisory body receives new mandate Cork county high point Knockboy: a hill steeped in history www.mountaineering.ie
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A word from the edItor ISSUE 131 The Irish Mountain Log is the ❝ membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The Welcome organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and C éad míle fáilte! There is a chill in registered in Dublin, No 199053. the air and the leaves are turning Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, yellow and red and brown, so National Sports Campus, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. autumn is truly here! Generally, Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 however, it has been a good year so far for New restrictions are being Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 getting out and about, so we must not sought on the numbers info@mountaineering.ie complain. attempting everest each year www.mountaineering.ie * * * * * * Hot Rock Climbing Wall It can only be hoped that they are, so as Tollymore Mountain Centre After the fourth deadliest season ever on Bryansford, Newcastle to reduce the number of avoidable deaths Everest with eleven deaths, climbers and County Down, BT33 0PT on the mountain each year. guiding companies have called for Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 Given the issues it has around youth@mountaineering.ie changes in the way the government of commercial expeditions to Mount Everest, Nepal issues permits to climb the Mountaineering Ireland’s policy is that it Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan mountain. The large numbers climbing the Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) would be better for climbers to attempt a mountain and the inexperience of some iml-editor@mountaineering.ie less popular 8,000m peak – or maybe one climbers, and of some of the trekking Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill of the many unclimbed 6,000m peaks in iml-literaryeditor@mountaineering.ie companies, were blamed for the high the region – than to add to the increasing death toll in the latest pre-monsoon numbers attempting Everest each year The Irish Mountain Log is published by season. Mountaineering Ireland four times a and contributing to the environmental A group established to look at the year, in March, June, September, issues there. matter has recommended increasing the December. The material published in However, as the highest summit in the the Log by the voluntary editorial team experience required for climbers to be world, Everest is always going to have an and contributors must not be taken as issued with a permit, and for trekking attraction for mountaineers. official Mountaineering Ireland policy companies to be allowed to guide unless specifically stated. climbers on the mountain. * * * * * * However, reducing visitor numbers Copy deadline for the Winter 2019 I hope that we will all be able to take issue of the Irish Mountain Log is: will have an economic impact on the advantage of the reasonable weather, Friday, November 1st 2019. mountain communities, trekking while it is still with us, to safely enjoy the companies and the government, so it Advertising: info@mountaineering.ie Irish uplands in the coming weeks. remains to be seen if the recommendations will be implemented. Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn, environs@iol.ie Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020 Write for the Log PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are reminded that hillwalking and climbing Contributions of features, news items and photographs for are activities with a danger of personal the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be injury or death. Participants in these sent to the Editor at: iml-editor@mountaineering.ie. activities should be aware of and accept these risks, and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the Mountaineering Ireland publishes and Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. promotes safety and good practice advice and through the Mountain To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the ON THE COVER Training Board of Ireland administers a Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please hillwalking on Binn Chaonaigh in the range of training programmes for maamturks, Co Galway, with Binn Idir also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. walkers and climbers. An dá Log in the background PHOTOGRAPH heLeN LAwLeSS Autumn 2019 Irish Mountain Log 3
CONTENTS Autumn 2019 A tor (rock outcrop) in Coumshingaun in the Comeraghs. See story, page 34 News 14 Irish project in contention 38 Can Coronation Plantation for UIAA award be saved? 5 Funding for Women in Sport Patrick O’Sullivan reports By Cóilín MacLochlainn programme renewed 15 ‘Protect Our Winters’ 42 Hanging out on Hekla Ruth Whelan reports campaign grows By Michael Guilfoyle 6 New club membership Graeme Glennon reports 44 North Wollo Highlands trek By Margaret O’Mahony fees set 16 Women in Sport Co-ordinator Murrough McDonagh reports post advertised 48 Bears walk in Ethiopia By Murrough McDonagh By Marian Wallis 7 Hillwalking Development Officer appointed 52 No country for old men 16 Autumn Gathering in the By Jack Bergin Photographs: Margaret Flannagan (Coumshingaun), Patrick O’Sullivan (Nepal Ireland Day), John Harrison (top rope belaying) Patrick O’Sullivan reports Comeraghs 8 New mandate for Comhairle 16 Club support meetings na Tuaithe Regulars Helen Lawless reports 17 Sir Chris Bonington to 24 Crossword Competition 8 Photo posts for Clare trails deliver Lynam Lecture 56 Training 10 Three Kerry peninsulas hike 18 Nepal Ireland Day celebrated Jane Carney reports completed in style 60 Good Practice Guides (No 5) Patrick O’Sullivan reports By John Harrison 11 Tipperary Suir Blueway officially opened 19 New access rules proposed 62 Books for Mount Everest Reviews of recent books 12 Henry’s Cottage: new club hut in the Mournes 66 The Last Word By Vicky Ward News Features Gerry Walker 13 Path repairs planned for 20 Walking in Lanzarote Croagh Patrick By Liam Roche Helen Lawless reports 22 Nutrition and hydration 13 New advice for visitors Jane Leonard provides some tips to Cuilcagh Mountain 25 The refuge that married a wall Helen Lawless reports By Margaret Tees Climbing 26 Youth Trad Climbing Camps Damien O’Sullivan reports 28 Burren Climbing Meet 2019 Damien O’Sullivan reports 29 Competitions table By Damien O’Sullivan Features Traditional costume at Nepal Ireland Day 30 Quiet mountain Top rope belaying at Suas Climbing Centre, Limerick By Don Baldwin 18 NEPAL IRELAND DAY 34 Jewel of the Comeraghs By Margaret Flanagan 60 GOOD PRACTICE GUIDE No 5 4 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2019
Newsdesk Staff & Board General enquirieS info@mountaineering.ie Staff Chief executive Officer Murrough McDonagh, murrough@mountaineering.ie administration Officer Siobhán Quinn, info@mountaineering.ie Hillwalking Development Officer Ruth Whelan, ruth@mountaineering.ie access & Conservation Officer Helen Lawless, helen@mountaineering.ie training Officer Jane Carney, jane@mountaineering.ie training Office administrator Laura Griffin, laura@mountaineering.ie Climbing Officer Damien O’Sullivan, damien@mountaineering.ie Youth Development Officer for northern ireland Kevin Kilroy, kevin@mountaineering.ie Project Coordinator, indoor Climbing/Social inclusion Project Natasza Berlowska, natasza@mountaineering.ie Get irelanD WalkinG initiative Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking Participants at Women With Altitude event in Connemara in May 2019 enjoying a day in the hills Jason King, jason@getirelandwalking.ie MOuntaineerinG irelanD BOarD OffiCerS Funding for Women in Sport President Paul Kellagher president@mountaineering.ie programme renewed Chairperson Paul Barron Mountaineering Ireland receives €50,000 Women in Sport Funding chairperson@mountaineering.ie By Ruth Whelan women officiating. BOarD MeMBerS ■ Active Participation Imelda Buckley Mountaineering Ireland was delighted to Significantly reduce the active sport (Chair of Finance, Audit & Risk Committee) be named as one of the National participation gradient between men imelda-board@mountaineering.ie Governing Bodies selected to receive and women. Reduce the drop-out Helen Donoghue support in the latest round of Women in from physical activity and sport in (Chair of Access & Conservation Committee) Sport Funding from Sport Ireland. young girls. Engage with women of a helen-board@mountaineering.ie This funding will help the existing minority background. ■ Trish Kane Women in Sport programmes within Leadership and Governance trish-board@mountaineering.ie Mountaineering Ireland to progress, as Progress towards greater gender Colette Mahon well as enabling the introduction of new balance in board membership of colette-board@mountaineering.ie programmes over the next two years. funded bodies. Provide a pathway for Michael Maunsell These programmes will help deliver women aspiring to become leaders of mike-board@mountaineering.ie Mountaineering Ireland’s goals with funded bodies. ■ Gráinne McLaughlin regards to female participation as Visibility (Chair of Hillwalking Committee) identified in the current strategic plan, Increase the visibility and profile of our grainne-board@mountaineering.ie which was launched last year. female role models in sport. Use the Clare O’Connor Mountaineering Ireland’s Strategic Plan heroes of today to inspire the next clare-board@mountaineering.ie 2018-2021 links the Women in Sport generation of future Olympians and Dawson Stelfox programmes with the four pillars outlined Paralympians. (Chair of Mountain Training Board Ireland) by Sport Ireland in its Women in Sport Photograph: Anne McPartland dawson-board@mountaineering.ie policy: Coaching and Officiating, Active Geoff Thomas Participation, Leadership and Governance, Mountaineering Ireland’s CEO Murrough (Chair of Climbing Committee) and Visibility. McDonagh would like to thank Sport geoff-board@mountaineering.ie Ireland and Government Ministers ■ Coaching and Officiating Brendan Griffin and Shane Ross for their Broaden the coaching base to include investment in increasing and supporting more women from grassroots to high female participation in hillwalking and performance. Increase the number of climbing throughout the island of Ireland ■ Autumn 2019 Irish Mountain Log 5
NEWSL0G New club membership fees set Here below are Mountaineering Ireland’s new club membership fees for the 2019/2020 season: rates for young people – Discontinued as mandated by our firstly for club members aged discounts membership in 2018 under 23 years of age, who are discounted to €20.50 The discounts for early payment and for clubs with • Continue lobbying for improved and assured each; and secondly, where over 200 members have access for responsible club members are under 23 been discontinued. hillwalkers and climbers By Murrough McDonagh years of age and are sons or daughters of registered The new club membership fee of €35.00 covers all of • Strengthen our support for clubs and hillwalkers Following a motion passed at members of their club, a our benefits and services, by establishing a new special discounted rate of including insurance and the Hillwalking Committee the Mountaineering Ireland €7.60 each applies for their Irish Mountain Log. It will no and ensuring that we have AGM on March 30th, 2019, the longer be possible for a full-time Hillwalking new annual club membership club membership annually. members to pay a lower fee Development Officer fee of Mountaineering Ireland Apart from these two will be set at €35.00 for all discounted rates for young by opting out of particular benefits or services. • Strive to ensure that mountain landscapes are club members, commencing people, the fee for all other valued and protected on November 1st, 2019 for the Mountaineering Ireland club upcoming club year members is set at €35.00 New clubs, new members • Work with other relevant organisations to tackle (November 1st, 2019, to each. Clubs joining Mountaineering upland path erosion October 31st, 2020). Mountaineering Ireland will shortly be reviewing the Ireland for the first time can continue to affiliate before • Develop and promote formal and informal Discounts membership fees for the new membership year training to meet the needs There are two discounted individual members. starts, from September 1st of hillwalkers and climbers onwards, getting up to fourteen months’ • Encourage young people to participate in all membership for the price of aspects of twelve months. mountaineering The same arrangement • Continue to ensure we get Mountaineering Ireland continues to provide the applies for existing clubs the highest level of book service previously operated by Joss registering newly-joined benefits in our insurance Lynam. We can supply you with guidebooks members at that time of the policy at competitive and maps to almost any part of the world. year. However, in both of rates For the walker, there is a large collection of • these situations the new fee Offer an annual suite of Cicerone guides and books, or the wider of €35.00 per member will membership events selection of books and guides distributed apply from September 1st, (Gatherings, Winter by Cordee which also includes many 2019. Lectures, Meets, climbing guides. Books reviewed in the Environmental Workshops, Irish Mountain Log can usually be November 1st Lynam Lecture, Coaching purchased through Joss Books with a renewal date and Training events and members’ discount. To place an order, It is important to have all Club Development ring the Mountaineering Ireland office clubs affiliated on or before initiatives). on (01) 6251115 or email the November 1st renewal info@mountaineering.ie. date to ensure that all club Paying in sterling members are covered under The fee for those wishing to Mountaineering Ireland’s pay in sterling will be set by insurance policy. reference to the euro/sterling exchange rate in September Benefits of annually and also possibly membership reviewed pending The club membership fee developments in Brexit ■ increase has been necessary in order to help To all of our members: Mountaineering Ireland to: thank you. We • Deliver our Strategic Plan’s aims for 2018-2021, appreciate your continued support 6 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2019
Hillwalking Development Officer appointed Mountaineering Ireland appoints Ruth Whelan to post of Hillwalking Development Officer support all members by She climbed Kilimanjaro many Officer and is committed to organising and coordinating years ago and has walked and working with and supporting services, Gatherings and events climbed in the mountains of the hillwalking members of to meet the needs of the the French, Italian and Mountaineering Ireland. members, while supporting the Austrian Alps. Ruth is excited You can contact Ruth development of new and about her new role as Whelan on 087 161 2990 or at ruth@mountaineering.ie ■ existing clubs. Hillwalking Development In order to align Ruth’s role with the current strategic objectives, she will continue to By Patrick O’Sullivan be responsible for the above tasks, but her role will be solely Corrections IML 130 focused on developing It has come to our attention that we made three errors in the At the Mountaineering Ireland hillwalking and supporting previous issue of the Irish Mountain Log (IML 130, Summer 2019). AGM in 2018, a motion was hillwalking members as the Our apologies for any confusion caused. The errors were: approved to establish a new Hillwalking Development Hillwalking Committee. A 1. The caption on the first photograph on page 50, in the county Officer for Mountaineering high points article, described Slieve Foye as the County Antrim working group was Ireland. high point. In fact, it is the County Louth high point. subsequently established to Commenting on this new develop draft terms of 2. In the list of county high points on page 51, Galtymore (918m) position, Mountaineering reference and an initial work should have been listed as the high point for counties Ireland CEO Murrough plan for the new committee, Tipperary/Limerick and not Offaly/Limerick. McDonagh said: “I welcome which was approved by the 3. On page 26, in the dog training article from SARDA, the Ruth to this new and exciting Board of Mountaineering photographs were credited to author Sheelagh O’Malley’s collection. In fact, they were taken by Edelle Doherty ■ role. Given her experience and Ireland. especially her work in recent The new Hillwalking years on the steering group for Committee was set up in March our current Strategic Plan, on 2019. In order to best utilise staff resources, it was agreed to the Hillwalking Working Group and in her role as secretary to Crossword results align current staffing structures the Hillwalking Committee, it more closely to the five The winner of our Summer crossword in IML 130 was Billy Cantillon was evident that she was the from Limerick. Billy won an MSR Elixir 2 tent worth €300.00 from our strategic pillars in our current right person for the role of crossword sponsor, Basecamp. The solution to the crossword is shown Strategic Plan 2018-2021. To Hillwalking Development below. Mountaineering Ireland will contact the winner to tell him how coincide with the restructuring Officer. to arrange to collect his prize from Basecamp. A R D E R I N S T M D of the Talent Development “This, coupled with her vast 1 2 3 4 Officer’s role to Climbing Officer, N A U A O A L A A A A understanding of it was decided to restructure Mountaineering Ireland, our 5 N A B A P A M A N A B the Membership Development clubs, our purpose, values and 6 7 8 A I L A E A A A T O R Officer’s role, to focus solely on vision, together with her close supporting and developing working relationship with our 9 10 P A I N D I A N T A O hillwalking, hillwalking clubs and members, means 11 U R N A S A M A T E A membership and clubs. Ruth has all the credentials and 12 13 Ruth Whelan started working R A P C A N T E R A D experience to excel and help for Mountaineering Ireland over drive this new role forward and 14 15 N U T A W A U A A L P five years ago, after obtaining a help support the work of the 16 17 18 A A I N N A R A S A E first class honours degree in new Hillwalking Committee.” sports management and an When Ruth first made the 19 20 S A N A S A K A N A A MSc in graduate research at the big move to Dublin in the early K 2 P S E A S T A C K School of Public Health and 2000s she joined a few 21 22 Population Science in UCD. colleagues to raise some Ruth has worked on many money for charity by projects and has coordinated completing the Four Peaks many Gatherings, events and Challenge, which cemented her workshops for Mountaineering love for the mountains and the Ireland. Her role has evolved companionship, remoteness over the years and, to date, she and tranquillity hillwalking has had two main areas of offers. responsibility: firstly, to increase Her main areas for hillwalking membership of both climbers these days are around Wicklow and hillwalkers, and secondly, to and the Comeragh Mountains. Autumn 2019 Irish Mountain Log 7
NEWSLOG Access & Conservation Officer Helen Lawless paying a site visit to the Binn Shléibhe Mountain Access Area, Clonbur, Co Galway, in 2010, the year Comhairle na Tuaithe established pilot access areas both here and on Carrauntoohil, Co Kerry New mandate for Comhairle na Tuaithe By Helen Lawless good to see the health and well-being Mountain Access Project and the benefits of outdoor recreation reflected development of a booklet on access Mountaineering Ireland has welcomed the in the new mandate for it. and occupiers’ liability. announcement made in June by the “There is an opportunity now for the The rejuvenated Comhairle na Tuaithe Minister for Rural & Community Department of Rural & Community will have responsibility for advising the Development, Michael Ring, TD, of a new Development to adopt a leadership and Minister on a wide range of matters mandate for Comhairle na Tuaithe (the coordination role to ensure that Ireland’s relating to the future development of Countryside Council), the national advisory outdoor recreation sector evolves in a Ireland’s growing outdoor recreation body on outdoor recreation. way that is positive for participants, sector. Comhairle na Tuaithe met again The new mandate will reinforce and landowners and local communities, and that is environmentally sustainable.” in July to agree a clear vision for its work strengthen the advisory role of Comhairle na Tuaithe in relation to the sustainable Mountaineering Ireland has been a and to develop its work programme. development of the outdoor recreation member of Comhairle na Tuaithe since The Department of Rural & sector in Ireland. the body was established in 2004 and Community Development is also Speaking at the announcement, Minister has made an active contribution to the establishing an interdepartmental Michael Ring said: “The new mandate work of the Comhairle, especially in working group on outdoor recreation as relation to the Comhairle’s pilot part of its new structures ■ Photographs: Helen Lawless Collection (Loch Chualainn, Binn Shléubhe), Eoin Hogan Collection (photo post) provides the Comhairle with the opportunity to contribute to the development of outdoor recreation in a way which benefits rural communities, respects the rights of landowners and allows more Photo posts for Clare trails people to experience the benefits of our natural capital. “Outdoor recreation has become increasingly popular for many people as a means of social engagement and of enhancing their physical and mental well-being. “Outdoor recreational activity also supports local tourism and rural economic development. In 2014, the adventure activity tourism sector was valued at €852 million by Fáilte Ireland; it contributed to the direct and indirect employment of 2,125 people.” Dr Liam Twomey was also introduced as the new Chairperson of Comhairle na Tuaithe. Dr Twomey brings valuable experience to his new role, both as a former TD and through his work in general practice. The rejuvenation of the Comhairle follows A series of interactive photo posts has selfies in safe locations. The special the Minister’s reflection on a 2016 review of recently been installed on walking trails marker posts will also allow walkers to Comhairle na Tuaithe and discussions last in County Clare. Unlike traditional take photos of trail conditions and year with Comhairle members. marker posts, these posts have send reports directly back to Eoin Responding to the announcement, smartphone holders installed on them. Hogan. Mountaineering Ireland Chairperson Paul The project was initiated by Eoin Finally, walkers can take scenic Barron said: “It’s great to see Comhairle na Hogan, Clare Rural Recreation Officer. photos and upload them automatically Tuaithe coming alive again, and especially The posts will allow walkers to take to the trails manager’s website ■ 8 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2019
NEWSL0G Late evening on Cnoc na dTobar, overlooking Cahirciveen Three Kerry peninsulas hike completed Aidan Ennis, who has an enchainment of the Slieve birthday with his annual pint to a campsite near Gallarus previously written in the Irish Miskish, Caha, Shehy, of Guinness, Aidan climbed the Oratory. Mountain Log about his Derrynasaggart, The Paps, Reeks ridge to Carrauntoohil His final day, Friday, June separate walks on the three Mangerton and the Dunkerron and then descended Caher, 14th, saw him walking along Kerry peninsulas, has now Mountains all the way to before crossing to Knockmoyle the peaceful green Saints linked those hikes into one Waterville, a section of the Mountain on the Dingle Road to Ventry, where he had grand through-hike of all three three-peninsulas enchainment peninsula via Killorglin and a morning coffee break at the peninsulas. he calls the Great Kenmare Castlemaine. local post office and shop. Aidan started his hike on Horseshoe. From Knockmoyle, he The last 6km were on the Dursey Island, at the tip of the From Waterville, he hiked continued to Caherconree and Dingle Way to Dingle town Beara peninsula, on Saturday, along the Kerry Way on a the Slieve Mish range and then and the completion of his June 1st, 2019. His walk linked mountain-ridge line which ran hiked the entire length of the impressive, continuous the Beara, Iveragh and Dingle over to Knocknadobar (Cnoc rest of the Dingle peninsula to 461km Three Peninsulas peninsulas in one continuous na dTobar) above Cahirciveen. Brandon Mountain. Mountain Enchainment Hike, 461-kilometre mountain hike. He hiked the pilgrim path to From Brandon, he as he has dubbed it. He walked into Dingle on Friday, the summit before descending descended to the col and the Congratulations to Aidan June 14th, after fourteen days of to Kells and hiking the Arraglen Standing Stone, on this achievement. We look hiking. Glenbeigh Horseshoe before climbing the final forward to publishing a fuller Aidan’s hike began at the mountains and from there to mountain on the headland, account of his hike in a future highest point on Dursey Island. the Gap of Dunloe. Masatiompan (Más an issue of the Irish Mountain The route that he followed was After celebrating his Tiompáin). He then descended Log ■ Photographs: Aidan Ennis His final mountain summit, Mas an Tiompáin, on Brandon headland Arriving in Dingle after completing the three peninsulas hike 10 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2019
River Suir in Cahir, Co Tipperary Tipperary Suir Blueway officially opened Tipperary section of Suir Blueway comprises 53 km of walking, cycling and watersports trails Photographs: Robert Linsdell (River Suir in Cahir), Tipperary County Council (cyclist and walkers on Suir Blueway) circumstances. I would like to Walkers, cyclists, congratulate Tipperary canoeists, kayakers and County Council, Tipperary paddleboarders can enjoy Sports Partnerships and beautiful scenery as they Tipperary Tourism on the follow the river for 21 km development and delivery of along the refurbished this collaborative project.” historic towpath from the Tipperary County Council Suir Blueway Tipperary was Visitors can join a guided Monument Car Park in officially launched the Suir officially opened in Clonmel tour of the world-renowned Clonmel to Sean Healy Park Blueway Tipperary in May, by John Treacy, Chief in Carrick-on-Suir. Cahir Castle before strolling or after almost seven years of Executive of Sport Ireland. “On paddling down to the Accomplished paddlers planning and implementation. behalf of Sport Ireland, I am romantic Swiss Cottage. The can take on the challenge of More than €5.6m was invested delighted to be here on the Blueway continues through the 300-metre canoe slalom in developing this recreational banks of the River Suir to the picturesque towns of course in Clonmel, which resource, which will be an officially open the Suir amenity for the local Ardfinnan and Newcastle, as was constructed in 2016 as Blueway Tipperary,” he said on the River Suir meanders to the part of the investment in the project ■ community and a tourist the day. “This is a wonderful attraction. natural amenity, which will historic town of Clonmel. The Suir Blueway (Sli Gorm provide an excellent base for na Siúire) runs from Cahir to outdoor activity and Clonmel and on to Carrick-on- recreation for both the local Suir. It has 53 km of walking, community here in Tipperary cycling and watersports trails as well as visitors from all over through the beautiful Ireland and overseas. landscapes and bustling “Sport Ireland places a heritage towns of Tipperary. particular emphasis on Highlights include the Butler supporting activity Trail and the new whitewater programmes, such as the Suir canoe slalom course in Blueway Tipperary, that will Clonmel, which is used as a continue to support active training base for the Irish lifestyles among people of all national squad. Cyclist and walkers on the Suir Blueway – Tipperary backgrounds and Autumn 2019 Irish Mountain Log 11
NEWSL0G Henry’s Cottage: new club hut in Mournes By Vicky Ward Work done thirty-minute walk) from the Need reasons to book a crags at Pigeon Rock, and about Belfast Climbing Club is proud • Electricity and water reconnected a fifteen-minute drive from the club visit to the Mournes? Here are Belfast Climbing to announce that it has been given stewardship of a cottage • Windows replaced Annalong Valley – two of the Club’s top ten in an excellent location in the • Walls scraped and repainted premier climbing destinations in the Mournes. It is also close to recommendations for places to visit near Henry’s Mournes, just outside Atticall. some fantastic walking (see our Cottage: This will be only the second recommendations alongside). Mountaineering Ireland club hut, and we look forward to Work to be done • Bathroom and kitchen Right now, there isn’t a • The Mourne Wall challenge (the start is inviting any affiliated club to • Painting Mountaineering Ireland hut in ten minutes’ drive from stay soon! • Finishing Alpine bunks the Mournes. We hope that the existence of this amazing wee the hut) The house belongs to local climber and all-round nice guy cottage may encourage some • Slieve Binnian (ten minutes’ drive) new clubs to venture our way Henry McKee, who bought it in the 1990s and put an additional electricity, water, plenty of fireplaces and even a stained and try some of the treats in the • FM (VD, 4 pitches) (ten minutes’ drive and storey on it. However, as he area for the first time. glass window. We have many one-hour walk-in) hadn’t got much use out of it If you have any questions he decided earlier this year to ideas for the space right now and are in the process of regarding the cottage, contact • Cove and Percy Bysshe Caves (ten minutes’ lease it free of charge to the redecorating it and doing belfastclimbingclub@gmail.com. If you wish to donate any drive and one-hour Belfast Climbing Club, as long some carpentry to build furniture or cooking equipment, walk-in) as the club took care of it and brand-new Alpine bunks. We used it to promote climbing. hope to have the cottage etc, we would also be keen to • The ‘bird mountains’ – Eagle, Pigeon, Cock and The cottage was originally ready for other clubs to stay in hear from you. We are very called McLaughlin’s Cottage excited to start this adventure Hen – are all accessible by the beginning of 2020. and had a thatched roof. After and hope to be able to share from the cottage Atticall is in the western Henry’s renovations and our ongoing work we will be Mournes, below the Windy Gap updates with you all as it • Climbing in the Annalong Valley (ten in the Eagle Mountain area. It is progresses. renaming it Henry’s Cottage a five-minute drive (or a One last note: thanks, Henry! ■ minutes’ drive, 30-90 (Teachín Anraí). minutes’ walk-in) The cottage is pretty big, with sleeping space for about fifteen • Ice climbing at Eagle Mountain (from cottage) people, as well as a flat grass space outside to camp. It has • Sport climbing at Altnadue Quarry (twenty Photographs: Niall McLaughlin minutes’ drive) AUTHOR: Vicky Ward is the Meets Secretary for Belfast • Climbing at Pigeon Rock (thirty minutes’ walk or Climbing Club and has been ten minutes’ drive, plus involved with the club since it ten-minute walk-in) started two years ago. She has been a keen hillwalker and climber • Silent Valley (ten minutes’ drive) for many years, having grown up near the Mourne Mountains. At work on the cottage 12 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2019
NEWSL0G Path repairs planned for Croagh Patrick Planning application submitted for path work and habitat restoration along pilgrim route A planning application has Regulations. been submitted for path work The proposed work will and habitat restoration, to consist of aggregate- and enable sustainable access stone-pitched paths, path along the pilgrim route on drainage consisting of culverts, Croagh Patrick in Co Mayo. cross-drains and water-bars, This follows a successful trial fencing for managing access Trial path work on Croagh Patrick pilgrim route in October 2018 to identify a during construction work, methodology for path together with habitat Company, Mountaineering but is also considering other construction using the small restoration of eroded areas. Ireland, Mayo Mountain issues related to visitor blocks of stone found on the The Croagh Patrick management at Croagh Patrick. Rescue Team, Croagh Patrick steep summit cone. Stakeholders Group is The Croagh Patrick plans can Archaeological Society and the The application for planning comprised of a broad be viewed in the Murrisk consent has been submitted spectrum of interested parties, tourism and adventure Development Association café by the Croagh Patrick including mountain sectors. in the car park at Murrisk; in Stakeholders Group in shareholders, the Catholic The Stakeholders Group, Mayo County Council’s offices in partnership with Mayo County Church, Murrisk community, which was formed in 2015, has Westport and Castlebar; and Council under Part 8 of the Mayo County Council, South prioritised efforts to address online at Planning & Development West Mayo Development the erosion on Croagh Patrick www.mayococo.ie/en/Planning ■ New advice for visitors to Cuilcagh Environmental awareness day to be held at Cuilcagh Mountain on October 12th In response to continued and the stile, and so as not to erosion from high visitor encourage others onto the numbers in the area at the top fragile summit plateau. of the Cuilcagh boardwalk, and The current platform was between there and the created as a short-term summit plateau, plans are measure, and a redesign of this being put in place to manage endpoint or destination area is visitor activity in a way that currently being investigated. minimises further damage. Line definition and Visitors to the boardwalk (on conservation work is also the County Fermanagh-side planned for the summit approach to Cuilcagh plateau. However, this won’t be Mountain) are kindly asked to implemented until next year. keep to the designated path Mountaineering Ireland is and to remain within the planning an environmental confines of the viewing awareness day at Cuilcagh platform at the top of the Mountain, to take place on boardwalk. Saturday, October 12th, in Trampled peat at top of Cuilcagh boardwalk Mountaineering Ireland is conjunction with the CANN Photographs: Helen Lawless asking hillwalkers who want to project.* This event is aimed primarily at Club current situation, as well as visit the summit of Cuilcagh to Environmental Officers, but is an opportunity to learn take other routes on the * The CANN Project is a cross- open to other members about the special features of mountain and to avoiding border environmental project, which is working to preserve priority interested in understanding Cuilcagh’s natural using the Cuilcagh boardwalk, habitats and species at a number of Cuilcagh’s complex story. environment. Places are to prevent further sites across Ireland, Northern Ireland This study visit will provide limited; so if interested, and Scotland, including at Cuilcagh environmental damage an insight into the sequence of please email helen@mountaineering.ie ■ Mountain. CANN is supported by between the viewing platform the EU’s INTERREG VA Programme. events that has led to the Autumn 2019 Irish Mountain Log 13
NEWSLOG Bags of litter collected by Pure Mile volunteers as part of the Pure Project initiative in the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains Irish project in contention for UIAA award By Patrick O’Sullivan ■ Biosphere Expeditions trees, wildlife, social and cultural heritage Mountain protection worldwide through and the history and folklore of the area. This is the seventh year citizen science and volunteering. Operates The Pure Mile is a perfect opportunity that the UIAA has run worldwide with mountain projects in for communities and groups who want to a competition for its Kyrgyzstan, Romania, South Africa, Spain, improve and enhance the areas they live Mountain Protection Russia, Oman, Poland in. A large number of communities go the Award. The nominees ■ Gandaki Urja extra mile by repairing and painting old this year are twelve Converting organic waste to compressed traditional gates, cleaning up farmlands mountain environ- biogas and organic fertilizer, Nepal and entrances, erecting bat and bird ■ PSD Nepal mental projects from boxes, trimming hedges (outside of the around the world. bird-nesting season) and much more. PSD Nepal plastics upcycling and recycling These projects are supported or run by In Pure Miles where very little physical in Langtang National Park, Rasuwa, Nepal. UIAA member associations or by for-profit management is required, groups can focus or non-profit organisations. Most are on local research or on initiatives to ongoing and all have a commitment to ■ The Pure (Protecting Uplands & Rural increase awareness and appreciation of protecting the mountain environment and Environments) Project is an their chosen Mile among the wider engaging climbers and mountaineers as environmental project established in the community. part of that process. Wicklow and Dublin uplands to combat In supporting the nomination of the This year’s nominees include one Irish the increasing illegal dumping and fly- Pure Project for the UIAA Mountain candidate, the PURE Project. The other tipping there. It was officially launched in Protection Award, Mountaineering Ireland nominees are: September 2006. Illegal dumping in the said that the Pure Mile awards have been ■ University of Colorado landscape is a cause for serious concern in extremely successful in raising Ireland and a growing problem for many environmental awareness and building Sustainable Waste Management in the communities. Dumping is illegal, unsightly community pride across the Wicklow and Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal and unnecessary, and causes serious ■ Clean Climber Dublin Mountains. The achievement of the problems to habitats, species and human Pure Project in greatly reducing litter in Clean Climber, worldwide health. It pollutes our watercourses, ■ Fundacion Acceso Andino that area is largely due to the awareness, damages soil nutrients, encroaches on pride and local action that has been Sustainable Andes, Ecuador natural habitats, kills insects and animals stimulated by the Pure Mile initiative. ■ High Altitude Mountain Cleaners and is a threat to both the people who live The winner of the 2019 Mountain Ama-Dablam 2020, Nepal in the area and recreational users. Protection Award will be announced at the ■ Protect Our Winters Switzerland The Pure Mile is an environmental UIAA General Assembly in Cyprus on Towards climate-neutral mountaineering, initiative of the Pure Project which aims to November 2nd ■ foster a greater appreciation and Switzerland ■ Swiss Alpine Club Photograph: Patrick O’Sullivan awareness of our country roadscapes and mountains by rewarding and Alpine Learning project weeks, Switzerland acknowledging community and group ■ Mujer Montaña efforts. The competition encourages Construyendo Vidas 2019 Bolivia, Bolivia communities and groups living in rural ■ Alpine Club of Iran areas to adopt a mile (or more) stretch of Mountain Sports Centre with the approach road and upland. The objective is to keep of Environmental Sustainability by Passive these areas litter-free and to research Solar Energy, Iran information about the local wild flowers, 14 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2019
The Bossons Glacier in the Chamonix Valley in the 1990s, left, and in 2019, right. The Bossons Glacier is one of the larger glaciers of the Mont Blanc massif in the Alps. It is fed from the icefields lying on the northern side of Mont Blanc and descends down close to the Aiguille du Midi, ending on the southern side of the Arve valley, close to the town of Chamonix. It has the largest altitudinal drop of all the Alpine glaciers in Europe, and formerly extended much further down the valley than it does today. In the 17th century, the Bossons Glacier extended right down into Chamonix, but now it is only approximately 7.5 km long. ‘Protect Our Winters’ campaign grows By Graeme Glennon and equipping communities In the UK, we are an official ■ TRAVEL to take positive action on partner of the Kendal Avoid flying. Take the train or Climate change is one of the climate change. Mountain Film Festival, which drive, when possible, for biggest threats facing POW UK & IRL engages attracted 30,000 visitors in longer journeys. For shorter humanity. It is having a global people and organisations 2018. We are also the main journeys, use your bike, take impact and is already through their outdoors charity partner of the public transport or just simply affecting many outdoor livelihoods and recreational Telegraph Ski and Snowboard walk. If you have to fly or drive, activities. activities, to address climate Show, which is held at the then try to offset your carbon Members of the Irish change. We educate them on end of October and attracts emissions. outdoor recreation the risks of climate change over 20,000 visitors. community spend their free and support them to take Although the reality of ■ KIT time in natural environments, effective action. climate change is stark, there Reduce, Re-Use and Recycle where they can clearly see the Whilst POW in the US has have been some major areas whenever you can. Repair impact of climate change. traditionally been largely of progress recently – for rather than replace. When you However, many members of focused on skiers and example, a number of banks do replace, give your old kit this community, at both an snowboarders, it is now have announced they will away or sell it. Don’t let it individual and a corporate engaging with other sports stop funding high-carbon gather dust in the wardrobe. level, are unsure about what with POW Climb (see activities; electric vehicles are ■ DIET action they can take to https://protectourwinters.or on the up; China is rapidly mitigate this climate change. g/pow-climb). In the UK and electrifying its bus fleet; and Try to cut down on meat, and Protect Our Winters believes Ireland, we also want to be Ireland has become the first shop locally, whenever you can. that, by getting this broader than just skiers and country in the world to divest You will get the added community to act, we can snowboarders and are away from fossil fuels. There is satisfaction of knowing that drive significant and effective working to engage the wider still so much more to do! your food has been grown climate action. outdoor community. In the Finally, pause and locally and that you are Protect Our Winters (POW) UK, Matt Helliker is an remember you are part of supporting the community. UK & IRL exists to accelerate ambassador for POW Climb, something bigger. When you ■ RESPECT the transition to a carbon- whilst in the US we are do something, always neutral society by inspiring backed by legendary consider your options and Respect the trails and crags climbers and mountaineers such as Tommy Caldwell. take the environmentally less you use. Try to leave them as Over the past twelve damaging option in you found them or, even AUTHOR: Graeme Glennon is the Partner Coordinator of months, with the help of the everything you do. better, try to make them Some examples of this better than you found them Photographs: Protect Our Winters UK POW UK & IRL ■ Patagonia store in Dublin, we have run various fundraising include: campaigns and also presented a movie première. Through our strong Follow POW UK & IRL relationship with Patagonia, Website: https://protectourwinters.uk/join-us we will be hosting more Instagram: @uk_pow events later this year. Facebook: Protect Our Winters UK (For more info on this, keep Twitter: @uk_protect an eye on the Patagonia Dublin Facebook page). Autumn 2019 Irish Mountain Log 15
NEWSL0G Women in Sport Co-ordinator post advertised Vacancy in Mountaineering Ireland for Women in Sport Co-ordinator By Murrough McDonagh further the agenda of gender equality in relationships and providing expertise sport. and support to the current structures in Mountaineering Ireland is the governing Sport Ireland has now renewed its the area of women’s hillwalking and body for hillwalking and climbing commitment to women in sport through climbing. throughout the island of Ireland, the development of a Women in Sport More information about this post can representing the interests of over 12,500 policy. This policy will serve as a guide for be found on the Mountaineering Ireland members. The future of Irish Sport Ireland’s future work and website, www.mountaineering.ie. mountaineering is incredibly bright given investment in the area. the steady growth in participation and the How to apply increase in affiliated clubs in recent years. Role and purpose of Women in To apply for this post, a letter of The post of Mountaineering Ireland – Sport Co-ordinator position Women in Sport Co-ordinator is funded application and full CV should be sent by Mountaineering Ireland is committed to by Sport Ireland’s Women in Sport increasing women’s sustained email to jobs@mountaineering.ie initiative. involvement in hillwalking and climbing (reference: Mountaineering Ireland – The Women in Sport initiative is central as coaches, volunteers, club members, Women in Sport Co-ordinator). to the work of Sport Ireland. Since 2005, officials, leaders and participants, from all Interviews will be held during the the Sport Ireland Women in Sport levels. The purpose of the role is to working week starting October 7th, 2019. programme has funded a wide range of project-manage and ensure the The closing date for applications is initiatives delivered by National Governing implementation of current and future Wednesday, October 2nd, 2019, at Bodies and Local Sports Partnerships to programmes, while developing strong 5.00pm ■ Autumn Gathering in the Comeraghs October 18-20th, 2019 Kilmacthomas Walking Club members are celebrating their club’s fifteenth anniversary this year and are hosting the Mountaineering Ireland Autumn Gathering. They are keen to show off the beauty of their home turf, the Comeraghs, and the joys of walking there. Details of this year’s Autumn Gathering are as follows: Photograph: Con Murphy Host club Kilmacthomas Walking Club Date October 18-20th, 2019 Location The Comeraghs, Co Waterford Base The Park Hotel, Dungarvan Registration is still possible through the website, Sgilloge Lough in the Comeraghs, Co Waterford www.mountaineering.ie. Following on from the success of last year’s club Club support meetings support meetings, when we visited Sligo, Bray, Kerry and Derry, this year we will visit Mallow, Newry, Dublin and Galway. The agenda will be Date County Venue similar to last year’s. 25th September Cork Hibernian Hotel, Mallow Ruth Whelan (Hillwalking Development Officer), 3rd October Down Mourne Country Hotel, Newry Helen Lawless (Access & Conservation Officer) and 21st November Dublin National Sports Campus, Irish Sport HQ, Jane Carney (Training Officer) from Mountaineering Blanchardstown, Dublin 15 Ireland will participate, giving clubs in each region 27th November Galway Menlo Park Hotel, Headford Road, Galway the opportunity to raise questions and club-related topics with these officers. The meetings will also Arrive for refreshments: from 7.00pm. Meeting time: 7.30-9.30pm. allow clubs to network with other clubs in their region, to share ideas and information ■ 16 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2019
SPONSORED Wilderness Lodge Glenmalure Valley viewed from the Zig-zags Glenmalure adventures With the bonus of the efforts many features of glacial the Wilderness Lodge just self-guided walks in the of the residents to clean up erosion, such as the hanging down the road has started valley. He is particularly Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan (the lodge), Shever (valley view) their valley through their Pure valley – Fraughan Rock Glen providing accommodation. interested in hosting Mile, the Glenmalure Valley in – at the top of the valley The apartments are groups from hiking clubs Wicklow National Park, and two corrie lakes, well-provided for or other organisations, Ireland’s longest glacial valley, Kelly’s Lough and self-catering and offering to organise hiking is one of the nicest places to Art’s Lough. they serve as a breaks for them in this be on a sunny autumn day. High above great base for lovely valley. The Wicklow Way crosses the end of exploring the Depending on the group, the valley, near the the valley is valley or even the walks can be of Glenmalure Lodge, working Lugnaquilla, Glendalough. a Munro, the The owner, different degrees of its way over to Glendalough, and there are plenty of other highest Frank Quinn, difficulty to suit any levels walks that can be enjoyed. mountain in an adventurer of experience and fitness. The valley is also less Leinster and, at and explorer in his Maps and walking poles crowded than its neighbour, 925m (3035ft), the own right, has come can be provided. The Glendalough, being generally highest mountain in to roost in Glenmalure. Wilderness Lodge is less well-known. Ireland outside of Kerry. From a base in the suitable for groups of up Glenmalure is a classic In recent times, in addition Wilderness Lodge, he is to twenty people (see U-shaped valley. It displays to the Glenmalure Lodge, offering guided and advert, page 41) ■ Sir Chris Bonington to deliver Lynam Lecture Date: Wednesday, December 18th, 2019, at 7.30pm Venue: Chartered Accountants Ireland, 47-49 Pearse Street, Dublin 2 started climbing at the age of Karakoram, with Doug Scott in generations of Irish 16 in 1951. It has been his 1978. He still has the passion mountaineers. passion ever since. He made for the mountains that he had Since it was inaugurated, the the first British ascent of the at the beginning. Mountaineering Ireland Lynam North Wall of the Eiger and led The Mountaineering Ireland Lecture has been delivered the expedition that made the Lynam Lecture was annually by leading national first ascent of the South Face inaugurated in 2011 in memory and international mountaineers. of Annapurna, the biggest and of Joss Lynam, one of Ireland's The Mountaineering Ireland most difficult climb in the best-known mountaineers, in Lynam Lecture 2019 will take Himalayas at the time. recognition of his enormous place in the Chartered Sir Chris went on to lead the achievements in hillwalking, Accountants Ireland Lecture Mountaineering Ireland is successful expedition that climbing and mountaineering Hall, 47-49 Pearse Street, Dublin delighted to announce that Sir made the first ascent of the in Ireland and overseas over 2, on Wednesday, December Chris Bonington will deliver south-west face of Everest in some sixty years. During his 18th, 2019. Refreshments will be this year’s Mountaineering 1975, and then reached the lifetime, Joss initiated available from 7.00pm with the Ireland Lynam Lecture. summit of Everest in 1985 with numerous developments in lecture commencing at 7.30pm. Sir Chris, Britain’s best- a Norwegian expedition. His these areas of our sport in Tickets are now available known mountaineer, writer, greatest epic was the first Ireland and he was the through the website, photographer and lecturer, ascent of the Ogre, in the inspiration for a number of www.mountaineering.ie ■ Autumn 2019 Irish Mountain Log 17
NEWSLOG Guests of honour at Nepal Ireland Day in Farmleigh House (from right): Cllr Mary Seery-Kearney; Sean Crowe, TD; Deputy Chief of Mission at the Embassy of Nepal, London, Mr Sharad Raj Aran; Everest Marathon runner, Paul Maguire; and Vincent Barry, Managing Director of ICD Business School. Nepal Ireland Day celebrated in style The event comprised a delightful Nepalese cultural programme of music and dance By Patrick O’Sullivan After the opening speeches, working to strengthen Nepal from September 8-12th, the event comprised a relations between Nepal and visiting a hospital supported The Embassy of Nepal in delightful Nepalese cultural Ireland. by an Irish NGO, and the Ceann London, Nepal Ireland Society programme of music and Representing Councillor Comhairle paid a courtesy call and various Nepalese dances. There was a colourful Mark Ward, Mayor of South to President Bidya Devi organisations in Ireland, with Nepalese handicrafts stall, Dublin County Council, Bhandari to discuss relations support from South Dublin stalls of Irish NGOs who work Councillor Mary Seery- between the two countries. County Council, Dublin City in Nepal, a Visit Nepal 2020 Kearney said she had studied The Nepal Ireland Society Council and ICD Business Europe lottery stall, and a Nepal’s constitution during her has been organising Nepal College, jointly organised this photo exhibition on flat-screen days as a law student and that Ireland Day annually in year’s Nepal Ireland Day on TV sets of photographs taken she felt honoured to be able to Farmleigh House since 2013 by Irish tourists who visited participate in this celebration with support from the Office of Public Works ■ September 8th, 2019, at Nepal in the last year. of Nepal’s culture in Dublin. Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park, Nepal Ireland Day is the The President of the Dublin. The weather was biggest Nepalese event in Nepal Ireland Society, excellent on the day and the Ireland. It commemorates the Mr Deepesh Man event was a huge success. ever-growing friendship Shakya, welcomed and links between Nepal everyone and and Ireland. announced that the In his keynote speech, links between the two the Deputy Chief of countries had taken a Mission at the Embassy of significant step forward Nepal, London, Mr Sharad with the arrival that Raj Aran, said the very day in Kathmandu, celebration of Nepal Nepal, of an Irish Ireland Day highlighted the delegation from the ever-growing links Ireland Nepal between Nepal and Parliamentary Ireland. He requested Friendship Group led by attendees to visit Nepal in the Ceann Comhairle, the coming year to help Seán Ó Fearghaíl, TD, Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan make the Visit Nepal 2020 together with the campaign a success. Convener of the Ireland Also speaking at the Nepal Parliamentary opening ceremony, Sean Friendship Group, Crowe, TD, a member of Maureen O’Sullivan, TD, the Ireland Nepal and Senator Catherine Parliamentary Friendship Noone. Group, vowed to continue The delegation visited 18 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2019
CLIMBING WALL SEMINAR – October 8-9th, 2019 A Climbing Wall Seminar is being organised by Mountaineering Ireland in association with Petzl and Lyon Equipment. The seminar is aimed at anyone who has an interest in climbing walls, including owners, managers, coaches, instructors, route-setters, technical advisors, etc. The seminar will take place on October 8th and 9th in Blanchardstown, Dublin. For full details and to book a place, please go to the Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. Restrictions proposed on numbers attempting Everest By Patrick O’Sullivan condolences to the bereaved, strongly believes that access management, climber Following a disastrous pre-monsoon season experience, training and self-responsibility on Everest (8,848m) this year, in which are amongst the key topics to be addressed eleven climbers lost their lives, new rules on Everest. have been proposed to control the number The Nepali government issued 381 of people attempting to climb the mountain climbing permits for the pre-monsoon from the Nepalese side. Eight of the world’s season on Everest this year. The new 8,000m peaks are in Nepal, but Everest has regulations proposed would significantly always attracted the most attention, as the reduce the number of permits being issued. highest summit on Earth. A panel, made up of government officials, The eleven deaths, nine of which were on climbers and agencies representing the Mount Everest from Kalapatthar the Nepal side and two on the Tibet side, climbing community, was set up by the sadly included two Irish climbers, Shay government after it was criticised for Lawless and Kevin Hynes (see IML 130, page allowing anyone who paid the peak fee of accompanied by a trained Nepalese guide. 66). This was the fourth most deadly $11,000 (€10,000) to attempt to climb There are also proposals to further ensure climbing season on Everest in history. Everest. Some guiding companies have been the self-sufficiency of climbers by The deaths were put down to crowding warning about the dangers of overcrowding preventing people with certain disabilities and inexperience, resulting in calls from and inexperience on Everest for a long time. guides and climbers to limit the numbers from attempting the mountain. Under the proposed new regulations, attempting the peak and to ensure that The Ministry of Tourism will bring the climbers wanting to attempt Everest will now guiding companies and climbers have proposed new regulations to the Federal have to provide proof that they have climbed sufficient previous experience to reasonably Parliament of Nepal for approval in time at least one 6,500m peak before. Expedition attempt the climb. companies would also have to have had at for the pre-monsoon climbing season Photograph: Pavel Novak The calls were reinforced by photos of least three years’ experience in organising next year. However, given the likely climbers queuing on the summit ridge, other high-altitude climbs before guiding on economic effects of limiting the number waiting for their turn to stand on the highest Everest, and they would have to charge each of climbers on Everest on the mountain point on Earth, all the time while their climber at least $35,000. communities, the guiding companies and precious supplementary oxygen supplies Climbers would also be required to submit the government, there is some concern in were being used up. a certificate of good health and physical the international community that they Certainly, the UIAA, while offering fitness, as at present, and to be won’t be approved ■ Autumn 2019 Irish Mountain Log 19
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