ADE TO Darmstadt, Germany - March 19th - 20th, 2019 - Merck Group
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ADE TO
CARE March 19 - 20 , 2019
th th
Darmstadt, Germany
Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
We’re proud to announce the upcoming 4th DermoCosmetics “I am delighted to take part in this international indus-
Forum in Darmstadt, Germany! try-lead forum organised by Merck, Germany. The con-
ference brings together new research and clinical practice
More and more people are realizing that the secret to true
to foster innovation and advance the area of skin health
beauty is healthy skin, and the dermocosmetics market is
and topical skincare across diverse portfolio of personal care
surging worldwide as a result. This is a good reason to take
and pharmaceutical industries.”
a closer look at the science behind it. The ultimate goal,
Dr. Katerina Steventon, skincare consultant and facial
of course, is to develop outstanding products that will
massage therapist
continue to meet high expectations in the future.
We are acknowledged leaders in the dermocosmet-
ics field, with solid competencies and expertise in
quality control, toxicology, production, and reg- “Dermocosmetics has the potential to meet a vast range of needs
ulatory topics. Our goal is for a large number related to wellbeing and health. And since curiosity has always been
of top scientists from around the globe to at- the driving force at Merck―throughout our history dating back three
tend and discuss both currents trends and and a half centuries―this year we’re very pleased to offer you yet anoth-
the future of dermocosmetics. It’s a prime er attractive platform devoted to the scientific pursuit of dermocosmetic
opportunity for you to share information solutions for protecting sensitive skin and nurturing its natural beauty.”
on recent research findings, discuss new Lilia Heider, Head of the Organization Committee
ideas, and satisfy your own curiosity
Beate Anniés,
about a wide range of topics related
Head of Cosmetic
to the theory and practice of der-
Solutions, Merck
mocosmetics, including economic
Performance Materials
and health aspects.
I’m looking forward to welcom-
ing you here in Darmstadt on
March 19!
HOW TO REGISTER?
To register for the 4th DermoCosmetics Forum, please go to our website:
http://www.cvent.com/d/0bqmbt
There you’ll find a summary of the most important information, in addition
to a button for accessing the registration form.
2
Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
CONFERENCE INFORMATION AT A GLANCE
The 4 th DermoCosmetics that has become visibly irri- that comply with the good
Forum at a Glance tated as a result of exposure manufacturing practices of
The first DermoCosmetics or changes in its microbiome. the European Federation for
Forum back in 2013 was in- Overall, we’re sure that these Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI)
spired by the wish to merge events are making a major • Extensive documentation
pharmaceutical research with contribution to progress in this • Global expertise in the
the needs of the cosmetics in- increasingly vital field. If you chemical and pharmaceuti-
dustry: translational cosmet- deal with dermocosmetics, as cal industries with a focus
ics. It was such a resounding a researcher or a practitioner, on meeting regional needs
success that we have per- you won’t want to miss this
petuated the tradition. It has year’s edition! We also invite you to go on an
meanwhile become a regular exclusive tour of our labora-
industry institution that takes More Reasons to Attend tory to see our researchers in
place every other year for top We are uniquely positioned to action.
scientists and others from all organize this event, owing to
over the world to gather, swap our scientific background, our If you work in marketing,
ideas, inspire one another, 350 years of experience, and R&D, or use of dermocosmet-
and satisfy their curiosity. At our leadership in the field of ics and cosmetics and need to
this year’s conference as well, dermocosmetics. Our creden- keep up with the latest devel-
we want to fuel the discussion tials include: opments in these fields, you
about dermocosmetics and • Comprehensive efficacy stud- shouldn’t miss the opportuni-
LOCATION:
share knowledge, informa- ies of cosmetic ingredients ty to attend this key event!
tion and opinions about the • Support for drafting nation- MeRCK HQ
al and international regula- The event will take place
latest trends. One important
tions in Building B4 of Merck’s
aim this time around is to ex-
• Standardized product quali- global headquarters
plore innovative approaches
ty and production processes in Darmstadt, Germany.
for treating demanding skin
3 3
Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
ADDITIONAL EVENTS
Laboratory Tour skin and its components and
In connection with the 2019 processes in a way you may
DermoCosmetics Forum, at- never have witnessed before.
tendees will have a rare op- The exhibits shows solutions,
portunity to visit our labora- formulations and tools along
tories. You get to peek behind with detailed information on
the scenes, meet and watch the ingredients used and how
our scientists and technicians applications are developed.
at work, and learn about our The topics covered include the
research methods, state-of- skin microbiome, the effect of
the-art equipment, technol- insect repellent, and protec-
ogies, and high standards of tion from harmful light radia-
scientific endeavor. Please tions.
keep in mind that if you are
interested in going on a labo- Poster Show
ratory tour, you should let us In connection with the mar-
know well in advance because ketplace, you have the oppor-
only a limited number of spac- tunity to walk around and look
es are available. at a number of posters about
the R&D work that Merck and
Exhibition its partners are currently con-
We have created our market- ducting.
place to give you a hands-on
experience of many of the
topics that will be discussed
in the Forum. Leading-edge
virtual reality visualizes the
4Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
SELECTED SPEAKERS
Katerina Steventon, skincare consultant and facial Karl Lintner, CEO of KAL’IDEES Consulting
massage therapist in private practice Dr. Karl Lintner earned an undergraduate degree in chem-
After training as a beauty therapist, Dr. Katerina Steven- ical engineering and a PhD in biochemistry from the Vi-
ton earned an MSc in clinical biochemistry (self-tanning) enna University of Technology. He then spent a decade
and a PhD with a thesis on transdermal absorption of phy- researching biological peptides at the Nuclear Research
toestrogens in postmenopausal skin, and since then has Center in Saclay, France, publishing more than 30 papers.
gained deep clinical, commercial and research experience Dr. Lintner then went to work for the Henkel Company in
in the skincare field with particular emphasis on facial skincare. Her achieve- Düsseldorf, Germany, advancing to the role of Marketing Manager. Later he
ments include the formulation of hybrid anti-aging serums that reached the joined Sederma as its Technical Director before taking the helm for 10 years
finals of the 2017 and 2018 Pure Beauty Awards. Dr. Steventon has worked as the Managing Director and CEO, also winning a number of awards for de-
for prestigious brands including Shiseido, La Prairie, Oriflame, Unilever and veloping innovative active ingredients for cosmetics. Dr. Lintner now teaches
Smith & Nephew Wound Management. Today she consults for academia, the cosmetic chemistry and skin biology at the ISIPCA school of Perfumery, Cos-
skincare industry and retailers and writes for trade journals, in addition to metics and Aroma in Versailles and is the CEO of KAL’IDEES Consulting.
running her own private practice specialized in natural touch-based therapies
for acne, skin barrier dysfunction, and skin aging. Her current research inter-
ests include facial mapping, appearance and wellbeing, difficult-to-treat skin Cornelia Keck, Pharmacist and Professor
types, nutrition, mindfulness and relaxation. at Philipps University in Marburg, Germany
Dr. Cornelia Keck is a pharmacist and Professor of Pharma-
ceutics and Biopharmaceutics at the Philipps -University in
Marburg/Germany. Her field of research is the development
of innovative formulation strategies for improved delivery
of pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical actives. Special focus
is the application of nanocarriers, e.g. lipid nanoparticles and nanocrystals,
in dermal formulations. Prof. Keck is active member in various scientific soci-
eties and member of the BfR Cosmetics Commission at the Federal Institute
of Risk Assessment.
5Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
SELECTED SPEAKERS
Jörg von Hagen, Head of Cosmetics R&D at Merck KGaA Holger Seidel, Senior Technical Development
Prof. Dr. Jörg von Hagen studied biotechnology engineer- Manager at Azelis Personal Care
ing at the Giessen University of Applied Sciences in Ger- Dr. Holger Seidel earned a PhD in applied and technical
many and then earned his PhD with an award-winning chemistry from the University of Duisburg-Essen. Since
thesis. After joining Merck, he served as the Head of Cell going to work for the cosmetics industry 20 years ago, he
Culture Media R&D and then Director of Biopharmaceu- has held various positions in sales and R&D. Currently he
tical Materials and Technologies; now he is the Head of teaches at the Cologne University of Applied Sciences and
R&D Cosmetic Actives in Darmstadt. Prof. von Hagen has gained more holds the position of Senior Technical Development Manager for personal care
than 30 years of practical experience in signal transduction, proteomics, products at the Azelis Group with responsibility for coordinating the activities
biotechnology, biopharmaceutical production and cell culture media de- of its laboratories across Europe. Dr. Seidel has published a large number of
velopment. He teaches signal transduction, while focusing on immunology scientific papers.
and apoptosis in molecular cell biology and proteomics, at the University
of Salzburg in Austria and the University of Applied Sciences in Giessen. Markus Egert, Professor at Furtwangen University
Dr. Markus Egert studied biology and earned a PhD in molec-
ular microbial ecology. After spending several years work-
Thomas Broschard, Head of Chemical Toxicology ing for the hygiene and cosmetics industry, he became a
Cosmetics at Merck KGaA Professor for Microbiology and Hygiene in the Medical and
Dr. Thomas Broschard studied food chemistry at the Uni- Life Sciences Department of Furtwangen University in Ger-
versity of Kaiserslautern in Germany and wrote his doctor- many. Dr. Egert’s research activities focus on microflora
al thesis at the German Cancer Research Center (DKFZ) in that inhabit the human microbiome. In August 2018 he published a popular
Heidelberg on the chemical carcinogenesis of a plant ingre- science book on domestic human-microbe interactions titled ”Ein Keim kom-
dient. After holding postdoctoral research positions in Stras- mt selten allein” (Germs love company).
bourg and Karlsruhe, Dr. Broschard began his career in the cosmetic industry
as a toxicologist in 1998, initially at Henkel. In 2000, he joined Merck’s Toxi-
cology/Chemical and Preclinical Safety Department in Darmstadt. Today he is
the company’s Head of Chemical Toxicology. His special interest is the safety
evaluation of cosmetic ingredients using alternative and novel methodology.
6Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
AGENDA: MARCH 19, 2019
Time Topic Speaker Company
13:00 - 13:15 Welcome and organizational information B. Anniés Merck KGaA, Germany
Skin Microbiota and Skin Barrier Function: Essential Factors
13:15 - 14:00 K. Lintner KAL’idées, France
in Reducing Skin Sensitivity
14:00 - 14:15 Dermocosmetics: Market Update L. Heider Merck KGaA, Germany
Safety of Dermocosmetics: Current Developments and Challenges
14:15 - 14:45 T. Broschard Merck KGaA, Germany
of Alternative Methods
Cosmetic Claims: an Increasing Regulatory Challenge;
14:45 - 15:05 I. Höfgen-Müller Merck KGaA, Germany
aMicrobiome-Friendly Pre- and Probiotics
15:05 - 15:50 Coffee Break – Poster Show and Marketplace
in-vitro Aging of Skin Fibroblasts: Alterations of Antioxidant Gene Expression
15:50 - 16:20 P. Eckl Uni Salzburg, Austria
aand the Metabolism of the Lipid Peroxidation Product 4-Hydroxynonenal
16:20 - 16:40 Powerful Antioxidants to Enforce Skin Defense M. Lefort Merck KGaA, Germany
16:40 - 17:10 Trendy Formulations to Soothe Sensitive Skin H. Seidel Azelis, Germany
17:10 - 17:20 Closing Remarks
17:30 Bus Transfer to Hotel
19:30 Invitation to dinner in the „4 Cani” restaurant, Am Fürstenbahnhof 3-4, 64293 Darmstadt
7Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
AGENDA: MARCH 20, 2019
Time Topic Speaker Company
08:45- 09:00 Organizational information
09:00 - 09:30 Dermocosmetics for Sensitive Skin C. Keck Uni Marburg, Germany
09:30 - 10:00 RonaCare® Ectoin to Reduce Protein Carbonylation (CP) V. Bicard - Benhamou Merck KGaA, Germany
10:00 - 10:30 The Microbiome: Findings and Learnings M. Egert Uni Furtwangen, Germany
10:30 - 11:15 Coffee Break – Poster Show and Marketplace
11:15 - 11:45 From Molecular Dynamics to Biological Functions J. von Hagen Merck KGaA, Germany
11:45 - 12:15 Dermocosmetics and Inflammation J. Lademann Charité, Germany
12:15 - 12:45 Sensitive Skin and Atopic Dermatitis (AD): How to Deal with Them Cosmetically S. Motta Uni Bologna, Italy
Independent Skincare,
12:45 - 13:15 The Science of Massage for Different Skin Types K. Steventon
United Kingdom
13:15 - 13:30 Summary & Closing Remarks
13:30 - 14:30 Lunch
14:45 - 16:15 Visit to the lab and Innovation Center (optional; limited capacity!) J. von Hagen Merck KGaA, Germany
8Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
ABSTRACTS
Katerina Steventon: “The Science of Massage associated with pseudo-medical claims.
for Different Skin Types”
The sensory properties of skincare products enhance Holger Seidel: “Trendy Formulations to Soothe
the perceived wellbeing that results from their use. Sensitive Skin”
When developing new products, it is therefore im- Popular formulations for soothing sensitive skin
portant to understand how an individual’s skin type, either consistently avoid certain substances and/or
age and ethnicity can affect their experience of being attempt to alleviate symptoms with suitable active
massaged and how different touch techniques can im- ingredients. This presentation covers recent trends
pact skin biology. Cultures around the world approach such as eco-friendly cosmetics, personalized cosmet-
touch differently, and skincare techniques therefore ics etc., as well as the need to optimize performance
need to respect the integrity of the skin barrier in with regard to skin feel, flow properties, stability,
each case in order to provide overall positive benefits etc.
for the human body, strengthen the connection be-
tween the skin and the brain, and increase wellbeing. Cornelia Keck: “Dermocosmetics for Sensitive
Skin”
Karl Lintner: “Skin Microbiota and Skin Barrier The talk addresses the current state of the art in
Function: Essential Factors in Reducing Skin anti-aging research, where special focus is put on
Sensitivity” status quo and in anti-aging cosmetics and future
Although the connection between the skin’s barrier trends in dermocosmetics. Questions, e.g. “What is
function and its sensitivity is generally recognized, aging?”, “What anti-aging strategies are available
it was only recently discovered that microbial colo- today?” and “Which anti-aging trends are expected
nization can positively or negatively affect the prob- to come?” will be answered.
lems associated with sensitive skin. This presenta-
tion explores how cosmetic products and ingredients Markus Egert: “The Microbiome: Findings and
can modulate these interactions, while also covering Learnings”
regulatory issues around probiotics and the use of The human skin is home to millions of microorgan-
microbes in cosmetic products, as well as the risks isms that are collectively referred to as the human
9Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
ABSTRACTS
skin microbiome or microbiota. There is strong ev- standards of animal welfare, the trend toward sus- An effective barrier function is essential for healthy,
idence that the structure and function of this mi- tainability, and especially the increasingly respon- attractive skin. However, many endogenous or ex-
crobial community profoundly impact human health sible attitude of industry. The safety of some cos- ogenous factors can damage or weaken it and in-
and wellbeing, making it an obvious target for cos- metic ingredients can already be reliably assessed duce dysbiosis of the skin microbiota, for example
metic applications. Although the functional details with alternative approaches, however, the avail- by oxidative processes. The use of multifunctional
are still inadequately understood, this presentation able methods are still insufficient for consistently antioxidants in protective cosmetics provides ap-
provides food for thought on how cosmetic applica- meeting registration requirements. This presenta- pealing options for reinforcing skin’s natural defense
tions could take aim at the human skin microbiome. tion will provide an overview on the status quo and supporting skin homeostasis.
of alternative methods and address open issues,
Lilia Heider: “Dermocosmetics: Market Update” where further improvement is needed. Valérie Bicard-Benhamou: “RonaCare® Ectoin
The dermocosmetics market is currently fueled by to Reduce Protein Carbonylation (CP)”
consumers’ increasing preference for products that Ina Höfgen-Müller: “Cosmetic Claims, a Grow- Protein carbonylation is the most commonly used
prevent problems and foster health and wellbeing. ing Regulatory Challenge; Microbiome-Friend- biomarker for identifying severe oxidative protein
This, together with the fact that consumers are now ly Pre- and Probiotics” damage. It can be caused by exposure to radiation,
much more knowledgeable than before, is driving A wide range of claims are made about cosmetic chemical stress, or dehydration. This may lead to
demand for more effective products. This presenta- products. Whether all these are typical cosmetic skin hyperpigmentation or yellowing and enhance
tion provides an update on the current market situ- claims or borderline to medical devices or even pore visibility. RonaCare® Ectoin has been shown to
ation and its potential for generating more innova- pharmaceuticals always has to be investigated on confer outstanding protection against protein car-
tions and opportunities in this market. a case-by-case basis. The claim and the product bonylation caused by blue light, UV-A, chemical ac-
category finally determine the regulatory require- tion, and dehydration in various models (e.g. in vit-
Thomas Broschard: “Safety of Dermocosmet- ments for a dermocosmetic product. Outside the ro and ex vivo).
ics: Current Developments and Challenges of EU other borderline categories may be applicable
Alternative Methods” in addition. Although some official Guidelines ex- Jörg von Hagen: “From Molecular Dynamics to
Alternative methods have made considerable head- ist making use of the right claim is a challenge. Biological Functions”
way over the last decade, driven partly by the ban This presentation shows how Merck developed a bi-
on selling animal-tested cosmetics imposed by the Marina Lefort: “Powerful Antioxidants to Re- omimetic product based on the composition of the
EU regulation on cosmetics but even more by new inforce Skin Defense” natural moisturizing factor (NMF), with in silico stud-
10Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
ABSTRACTS
ies of molecular dynamics and in vivo testing. NMF the skin barrier and produce high concentrations of
ingredients were analyzed in human skin using RA- free radicals and bacteria. Two examples are pre-
MAN spectroscopy and applied to simulate and op- sented to illustrate the use of dermocosmetics for
timize a China-compliant composition derived from preventing or alleviating them.
natural molecules, and its functionality confirmed
in vivo and in situ with noninvasive RAMAN spec- Peter Eckl: “in-vitro Aging of Skin Fibroblasts:
troscopy. Alterations of Antioxidant Gene Expression
and the Metabolism of the Lipid Peroxidation
Stefania Motta: “Sensitive and Atopic Skin: Product 4-Hydroxynonenal”
Treatment with Cosmetics” Primary human fibroblasts from foreskin were
The main external factors involved in triggering cultured until senescence and the expression of
sensitive and atopic skin are cosmetics, water, pol- antioxidant enzymes (SOD 1-3, the enzymes of
lution, detergents, and emotional stress. Around the glutathione metabolism, and glutathinone-S-
40% of consumers suffer from one or both of these transferase), followed by analysis of the enzymes
conditions. There is therefore a need to develop involved in the metabolism of aldehydes (derived
special cosmetic products that prevent or allevi- from oxidative breakdown of two membrane lipids,
ate them, in the form of creams without emulsifi- cytochromes P450 and aldehyde dehydrogenase).
ers, surfactant-free detergents, ointments contain- The response to 4-hydroxynonenal (HNE), the most
ing hydrophilic and/or polymeric ingredients and important lipid peroxidation product derived from
breathable foundations. ω-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids, was also inves-
tigated. The main findings were that the metabo-
Jürgen Lademann: “Dermocosmetics and lism of HNE decreases with in vitro age, the tox-
Inflammation” icity of HNE increases, and expression of some of
The causes of inflammatory processes in skin vary. the studied enzymes is altered (either increased
In order to develop effective therapeutic and care or decreased).
products, it is necessary to identify the stages of
inflammatory processes. All inflammations damage
11Merck 4th DERMOCOSMETICS FORUM 2019
ORGANIZATIONAL INFO.
How to Register for the DermoCosmetics Forum
Please go to our registration website at http://
www.cvent.com/d/0bqmbt. It contains a sum-
mary of the most important information and a but-
ton for the registration form.
Accommodations
A block of rooms has been reserved for attendees
at the Maritim Hotel in Darmstadt. As soon as your
registration is confirmed, you will receive a refer-
ence number for contacting the hotel anytime until
February 22, 2019 to book a room.
Address:
Maritim Hotel
Rheinstraße 105
64295 Darmstadt
Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 6151 8782190
Email: reservierung.dar@maritim.de
Transportation between the hotel and the con-
ference venue
To make your stay with us as comfortable as possi-
ble, we are organizing bus transportation between
the hotel and Merck headquarters.
12 12Products are warranted to meet the specifications set forth on their label/packaging and/or certificate of analysis at the time of shipment or for the expressly stated duration. Merck pro-
vides information and advice on application technologies and relevant regulations based upon its current knowledge and opinion. MERCK MAKES NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY
OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR USE REGARDING OUR PRODUCTS, THEIR APPLICATION OR ANY INFORMATION
PROVIDED IN CONNECTION THEREWITH. Merck shall not in any event be liable for incidental, consequential, indirect, exemplary or special damages of any kind resulting from any use
or failure of the products. Customer is responsible for and must independently determine the suitability of Merck´s products for its products, intended use and processes. The foregoing
information and suggestions are also provided without warranty of non-infringement as to intellectual property rights of third parties and shall not be construed as any inducement to in-
fringe the rights of third parties. Customer shall be responsible for obtaining any applicable third party intellectual property licenses. All sales are subject to Merck’s complete Terms and
Conditions of Sale. Prices are subject to change without notice. Merck reserves the right to discontinue products without prior notice.
Merck, the vibrant M and RonaCare are trademarks of Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany or its affiliates. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.
CONTACT INFORMATION
Organizational matters:
Nadine Propf
Email: nadine.propf@merckgroup.com
Phone: + 49 6151 72-20704
Accommodations and transportation to the conference:
Susanne Wenig
ADE TO
Email: susanne.wenig@merckgroup.com
Phone: +49 6151 72-6618
CARE
Conference agenda:
Ann-Kathrin Heyden
Email: ann-kathrin.heyden@merckgroup.com
Phone: +49 6151 72-24367You can also read
