Magazine - The love for the detail, passion and precision - Armin Strom
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magazine The love for the detail, passion and precision 10 Years Manufacture Minute Repeater Resonance How we decorate 1
« The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance is one of the most ingenious and interesting watches we've had in the office in quite a while. » Jack Forster / Editor in Chief HODINKEE Inc. www.hodinkee.com 5
1 0 Y E A R S M A N U FAC T U R E Join us in our M I R FYRE* celebration *Swissgerman (Bernese dialect) for "We are celebrating" Serge Michel, Founder and Claude Greisler, Co-Founder 6
Dear reader, in 2009 when we foun- ded the Manufacture it was important for us to continue what Mr. Armin Strom has created, as we share the same passion for watches as he does. We are driven by the fascination for transparent mechanics and we belie- ve that horological craftmanship should never be hidden behind a dial. And so, we started to create our own exclusive watch movements with a lot of passion and diligence. We do not compromise when it co- mes to the development, production and decoration of our watches. We strive for technical and esthetical per- fection, and are proud of the produc- tion depth in our manufactory as well as of the sensibility and craftsmanship of our collaborators. 2019 marks a spe- cial year for us as we can celebrate our 10th anniversary of being a manufac- ture. A manufacture which is passiona- te about improvement, development and ingenious watchmaking. We are driven by rethinking existing ideas be- cause we believe that new technolo- gies opens also new ways of how a ti- mepiece can be produced. Today we can present you a long-lived dream from both of us. Since we have started the manufacture it was a wish to create our own Minute Repeater. It is a fantastic milestone that we achie- ved to create the world first Minute Repeater based on a Resonance mo- vement. The Minute Repeater Reso- nance tells stories about the evolution of the art of watchmaking. And we will never stop providing such stories. Yours truly, Serge and Claude 8 9
M I N U T E R E P E AT E R R E S O N A N C E I N S P I R E D BY T H E Z Y TG LO G G E* For the 10th anniversary of our fully integra- have one landmark clock that everyone in ted manufacture we wanted to develop a the region knows: the thirteenth-century world-first masterpiece fully highlighting Zytglogge. the brand’s savoir-faire. As the industry lea- ders in resonance, including the manufac- The clock in this tower has not only served ture’s laboratory-certified resonance tech- as the city’s main clock for more than 500 nology was an easy choice. But our two years, the tower also served as the referen- founders Serge Michel and Claude Greisler ce point for travel times indicated on stone wanted something more: a grand complica- markers along the main cantonal roads. This tion and the first chiming wristwatch produ- clock tower supposedly helped Albert Ein- ced in the canton of Bern. stein hone his special theory of relativity while working as a patent clerk in Bern. The Inspiration for a minute repeater came from impressive tower clock is animated with au- an unusual source: a sixteenth-century tow- tomatons: four minutes before the change er clock. We are based in Bienne in Switzer- of the hour, a cock crows, a bear (the sym- land’s canton of Bern, and they wanted to bol of Bern) makes his rounds, and a jester pay homage to the region. While the takes the liberty of announcing the hour in French-speaking region of Switzerland is advance. And at the top of the hour (and on known for a multitude of famous historical the quarters), the clock chimes the time for timepieces, Bern has far fewer. But it does all to hear. Development As masters of resonance movements we wanted to work in partnership with masters of chiming watches, and our co-Founder Claude Greisler knew the perfect person and team: his old friend Alain Schiesser, founder of Cercle des Horlogers, with whom he had worked with in the past at Christophe Claret. Working behind the sce- nes, Le Cercle des Horlogers has develo- ped around half of the minute repeaters launched by prestigious Swiss brands over the last few years. Originally the minute re- peater mechanism had been envisaged to be in the traditional position at the back of watch, but the team decided that it deser- ved equal billing with the resonant regula- tors dial side where it could be appreciated by all. This brought many technical challen- ges of its own. We did not only wanted the resonant regulators and minute repeater hammers and gongs to be fully visible on top of the movement dial side; Greisler and *Don't bother to pronounce it the right way 12 13
M I N U T E R E P E AT E R R E S O N A N C E M I N U T E R E P E AT E R R E S O N A N C E his team did not want appreciation of the ding multiple thermic treatments. While the distance between them. Until Armin Strom, animated mechanisms to be potentially di- exact process is a closely guarded secret, it precise adjustment of the distance bet- luted by the associated gearing necessary is said to be very similar to Patek Philippe’s ween the two regulators has been necessa- to drive the repeater and going train for the process for making gongs. ry to incite resonance. However, the Armin time display. So the movements are inver- All components are finished to the very hig- Strom Resonance Clutch Spring eliminates ted with the pinions driving the repeater hest level, but of special note is the trembla- the necessity for fine tuning the distance, hammers and hour and minutes transver- ge hand-engraving on the large golden ba- ensuring a much more reliable and efficient sing the two vertically stacked calibers. lance cocks supporting the two oscillating resonant system only taking up to 10 minu- They say necessity is the mother of inventi- balances. While titanium is the perfect me- tes to synchronize. The idea of resonance on and that’s certainly the case here. Space tal for both transmitting the resonating has endured for three centuries for a rea- constraints meant that there was insuffi- sound from the gongs to the ear and ensu- son, but that doesn’t mean you can’t impro- cient room for separate large mainspring ring that the watch is relatively light and ve upon it. barrels for each of the two movements, so comfortable to wear, it is a ‘cold’ metal; this our R&D team developed an innovative sin- coolness is balanced by the warm gold. Armin Strom’s patented Resonance Clutch gle barrel with two independent main- Spring is an innovative way of upgrading an springs inside, each driving its own move- old concept, one that is horology’s very rea- ment. Resonance son for being: precision and accuracy. In the pursuit of horological accuracy, preci- The high visibility of the complications dial sion, and rate stability, resonance has usual- side also dictates that the watchmakers ly involved using two independent move- have to pay very special attention when as- ments connected to allow fine tuning of the sembling and regulating the watch as the slightest scratch or mark on the beautifully hand-finished surfaces would be visible to all. Skeletonized bridges and plates allow vi- sual access through the sapphire crystal dial deep into the movement. While the vast majority of the components were produced in-house at our manufactu- re in Switzerland, the gongs were made by Le Cercle des Horlogers in a process invol- ving more than 30 different stages inclu- «Invention is not the product of logical thought, even though the final product is tied to a logical structure.» — Albert Einstein 14 15
Discover the art of decoration This is where all the magic happens – from the initial idea to prototyping, production and final assembly of the watch. 20 21
D E C O R AT I O N M E E T PAU L I N E* S H E W I L L S H OW YO U H OW W E D E CO R AT E Creating a watch movement from scratch is possible decoration on each part of the a watchmaker’s dream! In the watchmaker’s watch movement. On the next pages I will hands, the workpiece becomes a unique explain you a few steps and techniques we work of art. At Armin Strom we cherish the use in our manufacture to make each watch love for the detail and therefore we are only unique and to bring them alive by adding a satisfied when we have achieved the best human touch. *French pronaunced: POH-leen 22 23
D E C O R AT I O N Hand engravings Beveling and polishing calls for a trained Steel burins in differing sizes and wax-coa- eye and fingertip sensitivity together with ted holders are the tools of the engraver. plenty of patience and perseverance. In a In the engraver’s hands, the workpiece be- comparatively small part like a pallets comes a unique work of art. Our engraver bridge, a watchmaker can easily spend half draws her own motif design on the work- an hour or more on the detailed work. We piece with a needle according to her origi- do not compromise when it comes to the nal drawing. But her hand, working under decoration of our watches. the microscope, cannot guide the burin to a tenth of a millimeter every time; only a ma- chine could copy the engraving exactly. Finishing with the grinding wheel The special decoration called “Tremblage” Armin Strom uses traditional machines for for example is visible on the two bridges of grinding patterns onto the movement. our Minute Repeater Resonance and is The classic finish used in fine watchmaking completely made by hand using a traditio- known as Geneva Stripes (Côtes de Ge- nal engraving tool. Making the essential ex- nève), is created thanks to an abrasive disc ceptional this is our motivation. that is guided over the workpiece in per- fectly straight lines. Polishing: Filing to perfection Circular graining (Perlage) is a decorative Embellishing every part of a movement ma- motif reminiscent of clouds, typically used kes each Armin Strom watch akin to a hand- on main plates. To achieve this pattern, the crafted piece of jewelry. Working bare brass watchmaker uses a rotating abrasive pencil or steel by hand is time consuming work: and gently makes contact with the workpie- edges of plates, bridges and levers are per- ce, gradually working across the whole sur- fectly chamfered or, as the watchmakers face. This creates the characteristic overlap- call it, beveled. Every part is then polished, ping circular grained motif. All rotating parts even when the embellishing would not visi- of the movement are embellished with a ble in the finished watch. circular grinding. We are passionate about improvement, development and innovati- on. We are driven by rethinking watchmaking ideas in order to create new ways of how you can decorate a timepiece. Nowhere is the delicacy and complexity of this finishing and embellishment more in evidence than in a "Skeleton" watch whose transparency reveals the beauty and intricate structure of its movement. The watchmaker's decorati- ve art finds its fullest expression. #ASwatchmaking «We cultivate the care for the details and we believe in the evolution of watchmaking.» — Claude Greisler 24 25
C O N F I G U R ATO R C O N F I G U R ATO R PAU LI N E ’S CHOICE: Mirrored Force Resonance, configured C R E AT E YO U R OW N WATC H arminstrom.com 26 27
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COLLECTION Our watches T H E A R M I N S T RO M CO LLE C T I O N show more than just the time 30 31
COLLECTION COLLECTION MASTERPIECE RESONANCE M I N U T E R E P E AT E R R E S O N A N C E D UA L T I M E R E S O N A N C E PURE RESONANCE M I RRO RE D FO RCE RESO NAN CE T I TA N I U M SAPPHIRE 1 8 CT R O S E G O L D S TA I N L E S S S T E E L 32 33
COLLECTION COLLECTION S K E LE TO N SYS T E M 78 S KE LETO N PU RE TOU RB I LLO N S KE LETO N G R AV I T Y E Q UA L F O R C E M O RE TO CO M E S TA I N L E S S S T E E L 1 8 CT R O S E G O L D S TA I N L E S S S T E E L 34 35
COLLECTION COLLECTION OV E RV I E W MINUTE REPEATER RESONANCE DUAL TIME RESONANCE SKELETON PURE TOURBILLON SKELETON C a l i b re A R R 1 8 C a l i b re A R F1 7 C a l i b re A R M 0 9 - S C a l i b re ATC M - S Manual Winding Mechanism Manual Winding Mechanism Manual Winding Mechanism Manual Winding Mechanism Re s o n a n c e Sy s te m Re s o n a n c e Sy s te m Two B a r re l s To u r b i l l o n m ove m e nt Two B a r re l s Fo u r B a r re l s 8 - d ay s p owe r re s e r ve Two B a r re l s 4 - d ay s p owe r re s e r ve 1 1 0 h p owe r re s e r ve 4 3 . 4 0 m m d i a m e te r 1 0 - d ay s p owe r re s e r ve 47. 7m m d i a m e te r 59 m m x 4 3 . 4 m m d i a m e te r 1 3 . 0 0 m m h e i g ht 4 3 . 4 0 m m d i a m e te r 1 6 .1 0 m m h e i g ht 1 5 .9 0 m m h e i g ht 1 8 ' 0 0 0 A / h Fre q u e n c y 1 3 . 0 0 m m h e i g ht 2 5' 2 0 0 A / h Fre q u e n c y 2 5' 2 0 0 A / h Fre q u e n c y 3 4 J ewe l s 1 8 ' 0 0 0 A / h Fre q u e n c y 51 J ewe l s 70 J ewe l s 1 4 6 c o m p o n e nt s 24 J ewe l s 4 0 8 c o m p o n e nt s 41 9 c o m p o n e nt s Wa te r p ro of u p to 5 0 m 1 8 4 c o m p o n e nt s Wa te r p ro of u p to 3 0 m O pt i o n a l g u i l l o c h é d i a l P r i c e s t a r t i n g f ro m 3 2 '4 0 0 C H F Wa te r p ro of u p to 5 0 m Price 380'000 CHF Wa te r p ro of u p to 5 0 m P r i c e s t a r t i n g f ro m 8 8 ' 0 0 0 C H F L i m i te d to 1 0 p i e c e s P r i c e s t a r t i n g f ro m 1 8 0 ' 0 0 0 C H F L i m i te d to 8 p i e c e s MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE PURE RESONANCE GRAVITY EQUAL FORCE C a l i b re A R F1 5 C a l i b re A R F1 6 C a l i b re A S B 1 9 Manual Winding Mechanism Manual Winding Mechanism A u to m a t i c W i n d i n g M e c h a n i s m Re s o n a n c e Sy s te m Re s o n a n c e Sy s te m O n e Eq u a l Fo rc e B a r re l Two B a r re l s Two B a r re l s 7 2 h p owe r re s e r ve 4 8 h p owe r re s e r ve 4 8 h p owe r re s e r ve 41 . 0 0 m m d i a m e te r 4 3 . 4 0 m m d i a m e te r 42 . 0 0 m m d i a m e te r 1 2 . 6 5 m m h e i g ht 1 3 . 0 0 m m h e i g ht 1 2 . 0 0 m m h e i g ht 2 5' 2 0 0 A / h Fre q u e n c y 2 5' 2 0 0 A / h Fre q u e n c y 2 5' 2 0 0 A / h Fre q u e n c y 2 8 J ewe l s 4 3 J ewe l s 3 8 J ewe l s 2 0 2 c o m p o n e nt s 2 2 6 c o m p o n e nt s 2 0 6 c o m p o n e nt s Wa te r p ro of u p to 3 0 m O pt i o n a l g u i l l o c h é d i a l Wa te r p ro of u p to 5 0 m P r i c e s t a r t i n g f ro m 1 6' 9 0 0 C H F Wa te r p ro of u p to 5 0 m P r i c e s t a r t i n g f ro m 49 ' 0 0 0 C H F P r i c e s t a r t i n g f ro m 5 4' 0 0 0 C H F Configurable 36 37
C O N F I G U R ATO R Discover the C R E AT E YO U R OW N WATC H next level of Individualized to your taste and personality True luxury is the privilege of owning something special and rare. Something that no one else has and that fits your personality. Our configurator allows you luxury… to personalize your Armin Strom timepiece, right down to single parts, such as bridges and plates, in a wide variety of colors. Use your imagination! Choose from a wide variety of options to create your own exclusive wristwatch. One that reflects your personality and your own, personal style. 38 39
COM MUN ITY COM MUN ITY A R M I N S T RO M T H E S TO RY CO N T I N U E S ! — key f a c t s Join our community and stay tuned: 1 wa t ch 2 ma s terpieces arminstrom.com eng ra ve r 5 p rofessi o na l s i n t he 11 watch arminstrom deco ra t i o n wo rksho p ma kers tota l 408 6M serge_a_michel a bo u t pa r t s for the worl d f irs t ways to conf igu re M inute Repeater Resona nce you r Ar m in Str om claudegreisler FULLY INTEGRATED, FA M I LY INDEPENDENT OW N E D MANUFACTURE 40 41
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Armin Strom AG Bözingenstrasse 46 CH-2502 Biel/Bienne Switzerland Phone +41 (0) 32 343 33 44 info@arminstrom.com www.arminstrom.com Follow us on:
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