Luxury, as it could be - A FRESH PERSPECTIVE - 180 Amsterdam
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Luxury, as it could be A FRESH PERSPECTIVE
Introduction
180’s ambition is to see the world as it could be,
fueled by the belief that there’s nothing more
powerful than a fresh perspective.
This is particularly true of the luxury industry where
traditional brand models are breaking as cultural
relevance and speed to lead take more prominence.
INTRO This is why we’re introducing 180 LUXE, a new luxury 02
offering from the 180 global ecosystem whose focus
is to elevate luxury and premium brands across culture.
This report explores luxury through the framework
of the world as it could be, gathering a range of
fresh perspectives from experts around the world
to take a closer look at the influence luxury and
premium brands are having in culture.
This moment is one of radical collaboration
and generosity. It is this attitude that will help
us move towards a better future, faster.
Introducing 180 LUXE and
our perspective on luxury.
A luxury legacy is about giving more The Maîtres Horlogers in Switzerland,
than we’ve received in our lifetime. spending more than a lifetime to reinvent
their skills, Kyoto’s Nishijin-ori artisans’
This is a promise now embraced by wider know-how, often seen on catwalks,
communities, both challenging a certain or the tanneurs of Hermès are all part
status quo but also embodying the new of the same family of craftspeople.
values and commitments of luxury brands.
From the way raw materials are sourced, Luxury brands are investing in their people
to the way products are ethically made and are even resurrecting trades that There are moral aspirations in luxury
and the representation of the égéries,
luxury brands constantly re-enchant the way
had once disappeared. But we are also
creating for luxury brands the next
that go far beyond the immediate
INTRO their products are both dreamt and crafted. generation of digital craftsmanship. pleasure of accessing a desired 03
It’s a subtle balance between what the brand Coding luxury platforms is nearing poetry; experience or possessing a time-piece.
stands for for the next century and how a client
will be proud to adopt and adhere to this vision.
digital content requires both the sublime
skills of theatrical design and the precision
This is what we do at 180 LUXE,
There are moral aspirations in luxury that
only reached through software. Augmented making brands’ content feel more
alive for its communities, for now
reality is already altering how a luxury
go far beyond the immediate pleasure of brand will be understood and assimilated
of course, but also for the future...
accessing a desired experience or possessing within half a century from now. There is
a time-piece. This is what we do at 180 LUXE, indeed a chance that the first AR filter
making brands’ content feel more alive for becomes a collectible, as precious as
its communities, for now of course, but also a bag in a century from now.
for the future, remembering that a luxury
bracelet has more chances to know many In other words, Deus Ex Machina
owners, while augmenting its value as it ages. has become a fact. And on our own Laurent Francois
stage at 180 LUXE, we are here to
Deep-diving into subcultures to forecast Managing Partner, 180 LUXE
play the game.
the next sweetspot to make people want
a brand, finding long-lasting opportunities
to dream, these are things we crave.
The level of craftsmanship, shared from
one generation to the next, has never Laurent Francois
been as influential as it is now. Managing Partner, 180 LUXE
Luxury
CONTENTS 04
05 17 26 30
PREMIUM CIRCULARITY A ‘PHYGITAL’ PLAYGROUND REPRESENTATIVE BEAUTY A WAY OF LIFE
By adopting circular behaviours The physical store becomes a In the ever evolving beauty space, For the Middle East and Gulf regions,
and ingraining them in the business, playground for the consumer, luxury is about representation, luxury is a way of life. Consumers live
luxury fashion businesses can extend a way to step into the brand’s about understanding that the luxury it, breathe it every day, and define
the reach of the brand, attracting world that, up until that point, they’d beauty consumer does not sit within its evolution. For the region today,
new customers without sacrificing only ever experienced through the one demographic but rather is luxury has become more about self-
their premium positioning. phone screen in their hand. defined by shared behaviors. expression, and less about possession.
Premium circularity
Premium circularity
Premium circularity
Premium circularity
PART 1 05
Premium circularity
The fashion industry produces 10%
of all humanity’s carbon emissions
Our perspective and is the second-largest consumer
of the world’s water supply.
WORLD ECONOMIC FORUM 2020
PREMIUM
The secondhand
06
CIRCULARITY For luxury fashion houses, luxury is in the
brand’s attitude and behaviour as much as
it is about the products it sells, particularly market is expected
when it comes to sustainability. Customers
are looking to luxury fashion houses to place
to reach $65.8
sustainability at the heart of their business, billion by 2026.
to wear their values on their sleeves, not just
tell people about them. By adopting circular DELOITTE, GLOBAL POWERS
behaviours and ingraining them in the business, OF LUXURY GOODS 2020
luxury fashion businesses can extend the
reach of the brand, attracting new customers
without sacrificing their premium positioning.
The new value of luxury may be found
in intrinsic quality and pleasure of
PREMIUM
07
CIRCULARITY
experiences rather than in accumulation.
Vu-Quan Nguyen-Masse
Brand & Culture Director, ASEAN, Vero
The Expert
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
VU-QUAN NGUYEN-MASSE, BRAND
& CULTURE DIRECTOR, ASEAN, VERO
Do you think the younger generations’ in Vietnam and the explosion of luxury Do you think luxury fashion brands
attitudes towards circular fashion spending in automobiles, yachts, have a responsibility towards
is shifting the luxury market? and whatnot also indicates that at the promoting circular fashion?
Can secondhand fashion be defined opposite end of subculture crowds,
Responsibility of brands, especially
PREMIUM as luxury? new HNWIs [high net worth individuals]
CIRCULARITY the corporate ones is not something 08
are also craving the basic status symbols
In Vietnam and Thailand, the emerging I believe we can count on as citizens.
offered by luxury industries. A glimmer
markets have made contact with luxury The most thoughtful and relevant invest in it yet. The question is, why
of hope comes from the tourism
brands when those were less available sustainable actions have been taken won’t those retailers invest, while they
industry in the region heavily relying on
through direct retail and grey market by more or less independent brands were very happy buying affordable
developing radical sustainable practices.
offerings: secondhand, samples, like Veja or Patagonia which are not sustainable single-use denim?
counterfeits, and hand-carried imports. looking to greenwash their project.
Luxury fashion brands can only promote
Scarcity of products made secondhand Taking a broader look Circular fashion is such a complex circular fashion by sheer vision, not
a desirable way to access luxury brands.
at the markets though, ecosystem. Saitex is looking to turn its interest. Setting up a business model
Taking a broader look at the markets significant change in low-waste denim production operation, requires operational flexibility, which
though, significant change in luxury
luxury consumption supplying brands such as Everlane, a startup or a supplier such as Saitex
consumption towards sustainability Madewell and J Crew into a circular may have. But larger corporations
can’t be guaranteed. For instance,
towards sustainability brand. However, it doesn’t seem that may find it difficult to adjust without
the insatiable growth of real estate can’t be guaranteed. international brands have looked to challenging their structure heavily.
CONTINUED OVER...
The Expert. Vu-Quan Nguyen-Masse.
Luxury in the region is tied Looking away from price, how it’s becoming harder for educated
to other notions, spirituality would you define luxury fashion? younger generations to find the appeal
And how do you think that definition in over-priced fashion. Go on Ssense
over materiality, conform- has shifted both in the last few years and really find brands that have a story,
ity over domination, and so and between generations? a message that you may want to spend
the offering may look and There are two pillars of luxury in my
more for, by ideal and by sense of
belonging. How many do you find?
feel drastically different from experience: craft and creativity
what we are used to.
PREMIUM
CIRCULARITY (creativity as design, idealism and Another note of importance is the 09
cultural relevance). On one hand, cultural bias towards collective identity
we have the traditional excellence of rather than individuality across the board
Hermes or Cartier. On the other hand, in Asia. While in the West, it’s important
we have the boundary pushers such as to control scarcity and uniqueness of
Margiela, Comme des Garcons or Raf imagery in a vertical discourse, here
Simons. And somewhere in between, desire would be driven by Facebook
the clever cultural appropriation Groups like Vietnamese Indigo where
manufactured by Louis Vuitton and Gucci. armies of the same ‘kids’ will show
off their belonging to an aesthetic.
In terms of shift, what I find concerning
from an Asian standpoint is that besides Luxury in the region is tied to other
status, brands are offering less and less notions, spirituality over materiality,
cultural impact. It’s specifically critical conformity over domination, and so the
in fashion. As it’s easier for crafty leather offering may look and feel drastically
goods brands or watchmakers to justify different from what we are used to.
the price of ‘quality and complexity’,
CONTINUED OVER...
The Expert. Vu-Quan Nguyen-Masse.
By raising the question of co-creation
with Asian insiders, Asian makers,
Asian businesses, we can accelerate discovery
of what ‘post-materialism’ luxury means.
Does luxury have more relevance in a In Vietnam, the value of good food is cultural differences, if only to merely touch
world that priorities longevity and resell? an indicator of how luxury can evolve. on how to adjust retail tactics and at best
In a country known for being reluctant to adjust product development, although
Here’s a chance for luxury to be
at spending lavishly, extreme care for a sizes are still very much Westernized
experienced as a more human and
product can still elicit a sense of wonder and product creators are rarely Asian.
benevolent industry. Again, it looks like
and trigger consumption. Somehow By raising the question of co-creation
Japan is where the best representation
in that perspective, luxury is more with Asian insiders, Asian makers, Asian
of sustainable luxury can be found.
PREMIUM affordable, and less exclusive. businesses, we can accelerate discovery
CIRCULARITY Traditional practices like Kintsugi, 10
of what ‘post-materialism’ luxury means.
filling cracks with gold, concepts such The new value of luxury may be found
as wabi-sabi, accepting imperfection, in intrinsic quality and pleasure of
are pillars of long-lasting consumption. experiences rather than in accumulation.
But it can only be matched by a cultural It’s just surprising that we’ve only just
approach of business. In Japan, realized it. Most of what we’re discussing
some businesses have been around is based on premises and the history
for centuries, but have only grown of a Western-centric industry. In recent
reasonably, often staying local. years, Western brands have invested
This is not a practice that makes sense in conquering the huge markets in Asia,
to the Western capitalist mindset yet. but have rarely questioned deeply theCircular fashion is a tool in a fashion
PREMIUM brand’s toolbox. It is one way to be more 11
sustainable and to attract new customers,
CIRCULARITY
but it is not the only way.
Nellie Cohen
Founder of BaleenThe Expert
Ventura, California
NELLIE COHEN,
FOUNDER OF BALEEN
Do you think the younger generations’ fashion is actually the epitome of luxury
attitudes towards circular fashion in the sense that luxury is supposed to
To me, secondhand fashion is is shifting the luxury market? be handcrafted with the best materials.
Can secondhand fashion be defined Theoretically these commitments
actually the epitome of luxury as luxury? to quality result in the production of
in the sense that luxury is
PREMIUM
12
CIRCULARITY heirloom pieces that can be passed
Yes, Gen Z’s style is largely based
supposed to be handcrafted on uniqueness and circular fashion
down from generation to generation.
with the best materials. (aka secondhand), creating the Do you think luxury fashion brands
opportunity to find vintage, rare and have a responsibility towards
one-of-a-kind items. This preference promoting circular fashion?
will encourage the luxury market to
No, I think that circular fashion is
participate in secondhand fashion
a tool in a fashion brand’s toolbox.
and produce new unique items in
It is one way to be more sustainable
collaboration with trending designers
and to attract new customers, but it
from diverse backgrounds that speak
is not the only way.
to the rejection by Gen Z of society’s
traditional categorical stereotypes of
race and gender. To me, secondhand CONTINUED OVER...The Expert. Nellie Cohen.
Looking away from price, how What does luxury look like as
would you define luxury fashion? people turn away from materialism?
And how do you think that definition Does it have more relevance in a world
has shifted both in the last few that prioritises longevity and resell?
years and between generations?
I think this looks like finding the best
From my point of view, luxury fashion quality, vintage luxury pieces made of
is richness in design, materials and incredibly high quality materials and
production. Richness is the care and altering them. I think we’re going to see
attention to the design of the product, a renaissance of tailors and garment
the selection of the materials and the repair artisans that are going to help
approach to production. When I was people take their grandmother’s luxury
PREMIUM growing up in the 80’s and 90’s, luxury pieces and put their own twist on them.
13
CIRCULARITY
seemed to be about the ostentatious Luxury will be increasingly valuable in
display of the logo. It was about the a world that embraces resale because Luxury will be increasingly valuable
brand defining your status in a very of the quality. You cannot resell poorly in a world that embraces resale
clear way, for example, the prevalence made things; they’re just not built for because of the quality. You cannot
of stealing Mercedes hood ornaments. multiple owners. You can resell quality,
resell poorly made things.
Today, luxury still is about exclusivity, and if quality is synonymous with luxury
but in a more subtle way. It’s about then it will be sought after. The piece
finding the next cool thing that will change with each owner and the
hasn’t been overblown and overhyped. patina will grow and develop into art.
It’s in the tonal logos that obscure
the branding. It’s in the collaborations
with emerging designers. It’s about
effortless coolness.Brands have to shift their entire practices
PREMIUM in order not only to ‘promote’, but to propose 14
new products based on the principles of the
CIRCULARITY
circular economy.
Lucas Delattre
Professor of Communications,
Institut Français de la ModeThe Expert
Paris, France
LUCAS DELATTRE, PROFESSOR
OF COMMUNICATIONS, INSTITUT
FRANÇAIS DE LA MODE
Do you think the younger generations’ be defined as luxury, provided the Do you think luxury fashion brands Knowing that quality vintage
attitudes towards circular fashion product is one, on top of quality under have a responsibility towards
is shifting the luxury market? every aspect e.g. fabrics and materials, promoting circular fashion?
products like Hermès bags
Can second hand fashion be defined fabrication, details etc; two, acquires or luxury watches can be
Promoting circular fashion is an
PREMIUM as luxury? a certain ‘patina’ through the time
absolute must for brands today,
more expensive than new 15
CIRCULARITY
I am not sure this is a phenomenon
and three, embodies a unique story,
but more importantly, brands have ones leads me to say that,
for example as having been worn by
which is related to younger generations’
somebody you love or having been worn
to shift their entire practices in order yes, second hand fashion
attitudes towards fashion consumption.
under certain historical circumstances,
not only to ‘promote’, but to propose
can be defined as luxury
I always remember how Hermès defines new products based on the principles
from the Festival de Cannes to any
the word ‘luxury’: “luxury is what can be of the circular economy. Recycling
significant event you feel related to.
repaired” (Jean-Louis Dumas as quoted is not enough, brands must also This will probably become European law
by Guillaume de Seynes in front of IFM It is obvious that the growing importance think about prevention and reuse. in the coming months. LVMH is looking
students every year). Knowing that of second hand luxury platforms like From 2021 on, fashion and textile very closely at new secondhand business
quality vintage products like Hermès Vestiaire Collective or Net-A-Porter, companies in France will no longer models, while Berluti and Louis Vuitton
bags or luxury watches can be more even Farfetch with its Second Life, be allowed to destroy their unsold already offer repair services.
expensive than new ones leads me to points to the fact that secondhand fashion goods, according to the principle of
say that, yes, secondhand fashion can can definitely be defined as luxury. ‘extended producer responsibility’. CONTINUED OVER...The Expert. Lucas Delattre.
Looking away from price, how would their business to display their convictions
you define luxury fashion? And how and obsessions more freely; see Black
do you think that definition has Lives Matter. In 2021, all brands are
shifted both in the last few years asking themselves about their social role.
and between generations?
As mentioned by Business of Fashion:
In the last few years, luxury has experienced “Gucci donated $500,000 to the 2018 March
a notable shift from ownership and For Our Lives protest against gun violence.
ostentation to new values around Proenza Schouler sells T-shirts featuring
sustainability and social responsibility, an anti-gun graphic, donating proceeds to
at least in Europe and in the US, probably gun safety organisations. Climate change
also in big Chinese cities. Exceptional, is at the political forefront for brands like
PREMIUM durable and timeless goods are still Stella McCartney. Retailers like Gap Inc.
16
CIRCULARITY
the core of the luxury business, but and Target double down on their support
experiences, either physical or virtual, for LGBTQIA+ citizens with policies that
and responsible values are more and encourage shoppers to use whichever
more important. Luxury customers fitting rooms and restrooms correspond What does luxury look like as people Exceptional, durable
turn away from materialism? Does it
care less for possession but more for with their gender identity”.
and timeless goods are
memorable moments and for engagement have more relevance in a world that
and commitment. Designers are making it
For the last two years, fashion has
prioritises longevity and resell? still the core of the luxury
been showing its support for causes of
business, but experiences,
general interest: Balenciaga with World Luxury is still relevant, more than ever,
Food Program, Vuitton with UNICEF, see the skyrocketing financial results either physical or virtual,
Lacoste with IUCN (International Union of LVMH, Kering, Hermès and Chanel. and responsible values are
for Conservation of Nature), Loewe with But a new definition of luxury is under more and more important.
Elephant Crisis Fund, Gucci with March way: “creative, innovative, desirable
For Our Lives, PVH with World Wildlife Fund but also responsible, committed,
and Sézane with The Voice of Children. ‘slow’”, according to Barbara Coignet.A ‘phygital’ playground
A ‘phygital’ playground
PART 2
A ‘phygital’ playground 17
A ‘phygital’ playground
A ‘phygital’ playgroundOnly 23% of all luxury items sales in 2020
took place online, But online sales have
Our perspective almost doubled since 2019, when they
accounted for just 12% of all transactions.
CNBC 2020
A ‘PHYGITAL’
62% of affluent
18
PLAYGROUND When it comes to customer experience
that helps create meaningful memories
with consumers, luxury as it could be is consumers world-
about the blending of the physical and
digital retail worlds. It’s about creating
wide said they
a ‘phygital’ experience that allows prefered making
purchases in store.
consumers to seamlessly move from the
brand’s digital world to its physical one.
The physical store becomes a playground
LUXURY INSTITUTE 2020
for the consumer, a way to step into the
brand’s world that, up until that point,
they’d only ever experienced through
the phone screen in their hand.We are connected all the time,
and so we tend to expect a seamless
A ‘PHYGITAL’
19
PLAYGROUND
shopping experience both on and offline.
Noémie Balmat
Fashion & Luxury Sustainable Innovation expert,
CEO of Month Day YearThe Expert
Paris, France Department stores could evolve into
cultural spaces, getting closer to museums
NOÉMIE BALMAT, FASHION & LUXURY
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION EXPERT, where digital, in the form of augmented reality
CEO OF MONTH DAY YEAR for example, could enhance the experience.
What is the future of the luxury urban social interactions. There are so How do brands restore consumer
retail store? Is it one stop shop many things to be done for more inclusive confidence in its physical spaces?
or more of a lifestyle space? futures and to create better interactions
The pandemic has definitely changed
between people. For this, retail could be
I don’t think the one size fits all can apply: the way some of us shop, yet as social
an infinitely creative way to experiment.
A ‘PHYGITAL’ you expect a different experience interactions have been limited in the past
20
PLAYGROUND
depending on what you’re purchasing. Do you think digital is becoming year, I still believe the traditional physical
Department stores could evolve into more essential to creating a more store has a future. Changes to restore
cultural spaces, getting closer to seamless retail experience? consumer confidence in physical stores
museums where digital, in the form are changes that I believe surpass this
I think digital is and has been essential
of augmented reality for example, space and spread throughout the whole
to creating a seamless retail experience.
could enhance the experience. collective social space. All kinds of public
It has been for years even if retail
Concept stores and flagships could places are implementing new sanitary
has sometimes been late in adopting
evolve into service-centered spaces, rules and safety measures to reassure
technologies in general. For a very simple
where the physical experience would visitors and customers that they can
reason: we are connected all the time, and
complete the digital one. safely visit these places again. I think this
so we tend to expect a seamless shopping
will also evolve through time, with hygiene
I think there are many opportunities to experience both on and offline. The
being handled with more care than before
be explored in using retail as a space for pandemic has changed the way people
the pandemic. I just hope we will be able
social experiments, where brands could shop; even saying physical stores are
to maintain some balance in doing so.
unite their communities locally and invest dead would be wrong, because online and
themselves in a collective reshaping of offline experiences are still very different.A ‘PHYGITAL’ Technology is the glue which unites 21
the physical with the digital.
PLAYGROUND
Karinna Nobbs
Co-CEO of THE DEMATERIALISEDThe Expert The Expert
London, United Kingdom
KARINNA NOBBS, CO-CEO
OF THE DEMATERIALISED
The future of the luxury retail store
The future of the For physical stores to stay relevant
is a space which has multi-functions in a world that is increasingly moving
and one which has tech integrated luxury retail store everything online, they need to look
into the customer journey. It should is a space which has beautiful. They need to be dynamic in
A ‘PHYGITAL’
be a blend of culture, hospitality and
multi-functions and their looks and their product offer but
22
PLAYGROUND innovation. But these features have consistent in their service.
to be authentic to the brand identity
one which has tech
Brands need to give consumers a
and values. There should be fewer integrated into the
reason to visit the store through design,
but better stores. customer journey. through experiences with the brand
Digital can definitely function to serve with education about its history or the
the right product to the right person creative inspiration of the products.
at the right moment. It can facilitate For me, technology is the glue which Where possible they should experiment
hyper personalisation of experiences unites the physical with the digital. with functional innovation in terms
and products, it can assist with I think specifically that blockchain, of consumer technology and hedonic
storytelling and provenance and it augmented reality and machine innovation with sensory stimulation
can support longer term relationships. learning will be critical to this. through extended reality experiences.Whether the final sale is online or offline
does not matter, what matters is that the
A ‘PHYGITAL’
23
PLAYGROUND
customer believes in the brand.
Kai von Ahlefeld
Fashion Designer & Co-Founder, uberraumThe Expert
Perth, Australia / Paris, France
KAI VON AHLEFELD, FASHION DESIGNER
& CO-FOUNDER, UBERRAUM
The physical shop will What is the future of the luxury the physical and the online presence of experience came about. In our work
retail store? Is it one stop shop brands. Whether it is a 3D web experience for brands we see it less as digital
become more of a place
or more of a lifestyle space? or an interactive installation in stores, than information technology. And the
for brand experience. for us it is always important to create not information is the important part, the
The physical shop will become more of a
A ‘PHYGITAL’
Direct sales will be less only a customised, but also a meaningful digital is just a tool. So, for every in-store
place for brand experience. Direct sales 24
PLAYGROUND
important than showcasing will be less important than showcasing
experience for the brand and the clients. experience we work on, we focus on how
we can get the client more information
the products for future the products for future online purchases. How can digital enhance the
about a specific product in a playful way.
online purchases. I would not be surprised if stores customer’s retail experience?
transform their storage space into an
A big part of our world has become CONTINUED OVER...
experience space and, if you buy in a
digital! So, a lot of the lifestyle
physical store the merchandise will be
experiences mentioned above will rely
delivered through the same distribution
heavily on digital components especially
system as an online purchase. In the long
since there will be a need to link to the
term, it will not make sense to maintain
online sales system.
two different distribution systems.
Inner city spaces will be too precious But I think it is important to remember
for retail stock! Brand experience will that the experience needs in-store are
be the main focus and it will definitely physical and should appear as such
be lifestyle orientated for the luxury to the customer. To the customer the
industry. Currently, we are receiving more experience has to feel natural and they
and more requests to combine the two, should not even reflect on how theThe Expert. Kai von Ahlefeld.
How can physical stores stay relevant to them as soon as they can, exactly
in a world that is increasingly moving because they have more confidence
everything online, particularly in in them. The big question is, can we
light of the ongoing pandemic? profit from this reboot of physical
How do brands restore consumer shopping to create a better solution
confidence in its physical spaces? for both the brands and the customer?
For most products there is still a need for
a real world experience with a product.
For most products there is
A perfume needs to be smelled, a cream
to be felt, a speaker to be heard etc.
still a need for a real world
People don’t trust online descriptions experience with a product.
A ‘PHYGITAL’ and would like to see the product for A perfume needs to be 25
PLAYGROUND
themselves before ordering. Consumer
smelled, a cream to be felt,
confidence does not have to be restored
for physical spaces. Consumers will flock a speaker to be heard etc.
I think it is actually a huge chance to
focus more on the brand experience.
Brands need to consider their stores
more as entertainment spaces in which
the customers are transported into a
brand universe that they can then identify
with. Whether the final sale is online or
offline does not matter, what matters is
that the customer believes in the brand.Representative beauty
Representative beauty
PART 3
Representative beauty 26
Representative beauty
Representative beauty65% of consumers say that it’s important
that the companies they buy from
actively promote diversity and inclusion
Our perspective in their own business or society as a whole.
GLOBAL MONITOR 2021
REPRESENTATIVE
62% of people
27
BEAUTY In the ever evolving beauty space,
luxury is about representation,
about understanding that the luxury said that a brand’s
beauty consumer does not sit within
one demographic but rather is defined
diversity, or lack
by shared behaviors. If you can’t see it, of it, impacts their
perception of their
you can’t be it and, for the beauty sector,
if you can’t see it, you won’t buy it.
From the shades of foundation to
the faces on Instagram, how a beauty
products or services.
brand presents itself to the world has ADOBE 2020
never been more vital to its success.
The world as it could be sees luxury
beauty brands recognising the
influence they have to shift the needle.My personal point of view is that it is
a duty for Luxe to speak to everyone and a
REPRESENTATIVE
BEAUTY duty for Luxe to showcase the diversity of 28
representation that is at the heart of what makes
us appreciate the sensitive world of luxury.
Nathie Nakarat
Director of People Development,
Learning & Animation HR France, L’OréalThe Expert
Global
NATHIE NAKARAT, DIRECTOR OF
PEOPLE DEVELOPMENT, LEARNING
& ANIMATION HR FRANCE, L’ORÉAL
“To me luxury is an attitude. It is respect “My personal point of view is that it is a
towards a savoir-faire, a heritage that duty for Luxe to speak to everyone and
Luxury is also inspirational comes together to create an experience. a duty for Luxe to showcase the diversity
It asks us to react to luxury goods with of representation that is at the heart of
for everyone. Craftsmanship, our senses, which is one of the most what makes us appreciate the sensitive
beauty and excellence are
REPRESENTATIVE
29
BEAUTY common human aspects that gathers world of luxury. Beyond the social role
definitely for everyone to be us all. Luxury is an inner experience so model that inspiration can create, it is a
a better version of oneself. intimate that you need to have multiple duty. The future of beauty brands is that
representations of it to hope to gather an they are role models for what the world
inch of what it creates for each individual. should be: respectful of human people,
and of the planet.
Whether you’re fat or thin, black or
white, educated or not, luxury addresses Beauty brands in the future should reach
anyone who can and will experience the highest level of excellence in terms
it. Showing diverse people shows that of efficacy, safety and beauty at the
[luxury] addresses everyone. Luxury same time as they reach an economy
is also inspirational for everyone. of means with sustainably sourced
Craftsmanship, beauty and excellence ingredients and packaging that is kind to
are definitely for everyone to be a better the planet. I feel personally lucky to work
version of oneself.“ in a company that shares this sustainable
ambition for their brands backed up
by strong measurable commitments.”A way of life
A way of life
A way of life
PART 4 30
A way of lifeIn the Middle East and Africa, especially
in GCC countries, 70% of consumers
Our perspective claim to have increased their spending
over luxury goods.
MORDOR INTELLIGENCE 2021
The luxury sector appeals
A WAY OF LIFE 31
For the Middle East and Gulf regions,
luxury is a way of life. For locals, it’s about
the places you go, the accessories you
to a global consumer;
wear and the car you drive. For expats, 20 to 30% of industry
it’s the experience that matters and
for many, they are able to experience
revenues are generated
luxury without actually having to pay by consumers making
for it. But what does the future look
luxury purchases outside
like for luxury brands in this region?
With a new generation of consumers their home countries.
ready to spend, how can brands
MCKINSEY 2020
ensure they stay relevant?As people become more open-minded
to what luxury actually means,
A WAY OF LIFE
brands need to push the boundaries 32
of their experiences and be vocal in
the ever-changing landscape of luxury.
Rifaat Fakih
Strategic Planner, TBWA\RAADThe Expert
Dubai, United Arab Emirates
RIFAAT FAKIH, STRATEGIC
PLANNER, TBWA\RAAD
People in the MENA What are the emerging behaviours When luxury is a way of life,
defining the next chapter of luxury how can brands stay relevant?
region are looking for brand success in this region?
Luxury is a way of life in our region.
products that reflect Luxury today has become more Consumers live it, breathe it every day,
A WAY OF LIFE their beliefs and style, about self-expression, and less about and define its evolution. As people 33
possession. People in the MENA region become more open-minded to
while also holding are looking for products that reflect what luxury actually means, brands
a certain amount their beliefs and style, while also holding need to push the boundaries of their
a certain amount of social currency. experiences and be vocal in the
of social currency. With that comes a shift towards more ever-changing landscape of luxury.
customization that sets brands apart The Giving Movement is a brand that
from classic high-end retail, and stands out here. They produce street
Golden Goose is a great example of that. and active wear in the UAE, made
The brand offers customers the ability out of sustainable bamboo material,
to customize their shoes to the tiniest pulling on the heartstrings of the
of details, providing them with high-end new generation who have made it
fashion, the way they want. their mission to protect the planet.
CONTINUED OVER...The Expert. Rifaat Fakih.
How can brands appeal to the next What are the biggest changes you’ve
generation of luxury consumers? seen happening in the luxury space?
And what are your predictions for this
Gen Z are into a new kind of luxury.
space for the year ahead?
Much in line with the emerging trends,
this next generation is looking for The luxury space is becoming more
authentic self-reflection that gives them authentic and focused on the experience
value on social media. This is reflected of the consumer, whether it’s online or in
through hypebeast culture, where the real world. Consumers don’t want to
consumers are committed to getting the feel intimidated, and brands are adapting
latest and coolest products or those that to that. The luxury retail shopping
are ‘hyped’. There are several streetwear experience is becoming friendlier and
brands in the region that are leveraging less stuck up than it used to be, allowing
A WAY OF LIFE 34
this culture, such as Off-White and Yeezy, for more human interactions at the
which are sold out in minutes with store store. Sustainability is also on the rise,
The luxury retail shopping experience
queues lining up through entire malls. from product material to packaging,
brands realize the importance of being
is becoming friendlier and less stuck
eco-friendly. In addition to that, local up than it used to be, allowing for
designers are in the spotlight like never more human interactions at the store.
before. Online luxury e-commerce
site Ounass showcases this trend by
highlighting up and coming local luxury
designers on their site, while also staying
committed to being as sustainable
as possible. As lockdowns ease and
people start spending more time out
of home, they will look for more human
experiences in luxury retail and support
the brands that value their beliefs.The Experts.
NOÉMIE BALMAT VU-QUAN NGUYEN-MASSE NELLIE COHEN LUCAS DELATTRE
FASHION & LUXURY SUSTAINABLE BRAND & CULTURE DIRECTOR, FOUNDER OF BALEEN PROFESSOR OF COMMUNICATIONS,
INNOVATION EXPERT, CEO OF ASEAN, VERO INSTITUT FRANÇAIS DE LA MODE
MONTH DAY YEAR
Noémie Balmat is a fashion and A creative strategist based in Asia since Nellie Cohen is the founder of Baleen, Lucas Delattre is in charge of teaching
THE EXPERTS 35
luxury sustainable innovation expert 2013, VQ has worked within and around a consultancy dedicated to helping communications, media and digital at IFM,
and is the Founder and CEO of luxury & creative industries, observing brands and the planet symbiotically and is a graduate of the Ecole Normale
Month Day Year, an interdisciplinary alternative paradigms emerging in benefit. Previously she spent nearly Supérieure (rue Ulm, class of 1985,
and independent collective using lesser known and new markets of a decade at Patagonia where she arts/history), and also has a Media and
sustainable innovation to influence interest. VQ has formerly been quoted built Worn Wear. Nellie holds a BA Communication Masters from ESCP Europe
the inside of creative industries to in Monocle as Head of Strategy at Rice in Environmental Systems from UC (1989). He worked as a foreign correspondent
inspire change beyond. She is an Creative, a boutique branding & design San Diego and a MS from Scripps and journalist in Germany from 1989 to 1997
accomplished speaker and lecturer practice who’s worked for Samsung Institution of Oceanography. (Le Monde) and then on the foreign desk
and has been on the advisory jury GIC, Mobifone and Uber. He’s also at Le Monde in Paris from 1997 to 2001. He
board at SXSW since 2016. She is a been quoted in Business of Fashion Ventura, California was deputy editor of Monde des Débats
trilingual entrepreneur, a creative as a former consultant for Japanese (2001). He was head of the Paris office of
strategist and producer and writer. designers at Showroom NU (Nire Ups the Conseil de l’Europe from 2002 to 2005.
Inc, based in Tokyo and distribution Between 2006 and 2015, he was in charge
platform for Comme des Garcons, Issey of communications for IFM. He has written
Paris, France
Miyake, Undercover). Currently focusing Une envie de politique, entretiens avec Dany
on creative company governance, VQ is Cohn-Bendit et Guy Herzlich (La Découverte,
Brand & Culture Director at ASEAN based 1998), and Fritz Kolbe, A Spy at the Heart of
PR agency Vero (Thailand, Myanmar, the Third Reich (Grove Atlantic, 2004).
Vietnam, Indonesia & The Philippines).
Paris, France
Ho Chi Minh City, VietnamThe Experts.
NATHIE NAKARAT KARINNA NOBBS KAI VON AHLEFELD RIFAAT FAKIH
NATHIE NAKARAT, DIRECTOR OF CO-CEO OF THE DEMATERIALISED FASHION DESIGNER & STRATEGIC PLANNER, TBWA\RAAD
PEOPLE DEVELOPMENT, LEARNING CO-FOUNDER, UBERRAUM
& ANIMATION HR FRANCE, L’ORÉAL
Nathie is a certified coach and Karinna Nobbs is an Educator, Nowist Born in Germany, Kai graduated from An avid storyteller, Rifaat started
THE EXPERTS 36
helps support the HR French and Connector. She is a published Parsons School of Design (BFA, Fashion his career at TBWA\RAAD as a
population in their development author, previously consulting and Design) in 1993, where he attended the community manager. He then moved
having been the Digital Global lecturing globally on retail innovation Paris and New York campus. He started to Planning and began developing
Director for international and the digitalisation of the fashion his career as assistant designer to the brand strategies for the likes of
professional brands for many industry. In 2020 she co-founded late Sonia Rykiel, and moved on to design Apple, KFC, Louvre Abu Dhabi, and
years. She is passionate about THE DEMATERIALISED with Marjorie collections for Lanvin for Ocimar Versolato, Under Armour. When he’s not in the
the arts, social innovation and Hernandez, a Web3 marketplace for before opening the creative agency, office planning, Rifaat is dissecting
ensuring that people are at the digital fashion NFTs powered by the uberraum, together with Maria Spahn. Kai Stanley Kubrick movies or collecting
heart of how businesses operate. LUKSO blockchain. von Ahlefeld and Maria Spahn have brought limited edition vinyls.
the agency to international acclaim for
Global London, United Kingdom their show designs, concepts, immersive Dubai, United Arab Emirates
installations and film work for the fashion
and luxury industry. He has designed and
created visual content for companies
such as Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Dom
Perignon, Moët, Diane von Fürstenberg,
Alexander Wang, Roadrte, Lacoste,
Tiffany’s and many others. Kai is currently
stuck in Perth Australia, but can’t wait for
the day that Australian borders open up
again so he can travel back to Europe.
Perth, Australia / Paris, FranceContact 180 Luxe: LAURENT FRANCOIS Managing Partner laurent.francois@180global.com PIERRE HUMEAU Managing Partner pierre.humeau@180global.com IZZY ASHTON Brand Communications Manager izzy.ashton@180global.com
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