LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON - BORDEAUX 2010 30 WINES IN STORES SEPTEMBER 5 AND 19
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SEPTEMBER
2013
BORDEAUX 2010
ANOTHER GREAT YEAR
THE RHÔNE
WINING AND DINING
IN LYON’S BOUCHONS
Languedoc- 30 WINES IN STORES
Roussillon
REGIONAL DISHES
SEPTEMBER 5 AND 19
AND THEIR PAIRINGS
ON THE COVER
At the Max Bordeaux
Wine Gallery, the most
legendary crus from
this most famous of
wine regions can be
sampled by the glass. IN STORES
PUBLISHER – SAQ
Johanne Morrisseau
Pictured, sommelier
Leagh Barkley, a native
of Vancouver.
SEPTEMBER 5 AND 19
30 newly arrived wines.
DIRECTOR – SPECIALTY PRODUCTS BUSINESS UNIT – SAQ Photo: Yves Samuel
Michel-André St-Jean
CONTRIBUTORS – SAQ
François Blondeau, Liette Chaput, François Couture, Sophie Drouin,
CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2013
François Fortier, Pierre Lauzon, Martin de Lottinville, Michel Lussier,
Marie-Ève Meunier, Catherine Périnet, Julie Perreault, Isabelle Plante,
Justin Rouette, Veronica Ruiz, Alain Smith
Médias Transcontinental S.E.N.C.
PUBLISHER – VICE PRESIDENT, CONSUMER SOLUTIONS
Lise Paul-Hus
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Catherine Elie
ART DIRECTOR
Renée Grégoire BORDEAUX 2010:
LIFESTYLE CONTENT EDITOR A GREAT VINTAGE BORDEAUX
Josée Larivée P. 5
EDITORIAL STAFF
Catherine Bergeron, Pascale Navarro 4 HAPPY HOUR
COPY EDITORS
Joan Irving, Donna Jensen
TRANSLATOR
IN BORDEAUX
Wining and dining in the
Felicity Munn great wine capital.
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Maude Chauvin, André Doyon, Yves Samuel, Jean Tremblay
STYLISTS LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON
12 A TASTE OF HOME
Heidi Bronstein, Anne Gagné, Caroline Simon
ART
Graphic artists
Frédérick Bailleul, Christiane Gauthier MONTÉRÉGIE Four Languedoc expats
Photo coordinator FOR EPICURES share their favourite regional
Esther Sainte-Croix P. 34 specialties.
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Sylvain Renaud (Director)
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(Director of Deployment and Support Tablet Computers)
514-845-2211
ADVERTISING SALES
22 THE BOUCHON TRADITION
Lyon’s iconic bouchons
Sabrina Boucher – SAQ are all about Rhône wines
514-254-6000, ext. 5115
Nathalie Smith (Advertising Coordinator) and hearty dishes.
514-392-9000, ext. 221271 LYON AND
THE RHÔNE VALLEY
28 NEW ARRIVALS
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cellier@tc.tc
CELLIER NEW ARRIVALS, published six times a year, is produced and published by QUEBEC TERROIR
34 A TRIP TO BOUNTIFUL
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WINES AND FOOD is scenic and savoury.
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to change without notice.
September 2013 3
Bordeaux
ENTÊTE NOIR DAESA (SUITE)
HAPPY HOUR IN
BORDEAUX
IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
Connoisseurs and neophytes alike
can find something to their taste
at the CIVB, thanks in part to the
information cards that come with
the wines.
SEPTEMBER 5
SEPTEMBER 5
BORDEAUX BENCHMARK In addition to taking the famed
At the Bar à Vin in the Conseil Château Angélus to the top of
the Saint-Émilion hierarchy,
Interprofessionnel du Vin de Hubert de Boüard de Laforest
Bordeaux (commonly referred to makes one of the best wines
as the CIVB), patrons often find in the Lalande de Pomerol
appellation. An oenologist and
themselves falling for one or
consultant to several wineries
another wine. Settled on curving in Bordeaux and overseas, he’s
banquettes in small alcoves that crafted his La Fleur de Boüard
encourage sharing, they order into a jewel that combines
tradition and technology.
wines by the glass, at 3 to 8 euros The grapes are meticulously
each, from attentive sommeliers sorted and the winemaking
who genuinely want to find operations utilize natural
something the customer will like. gravity flow. The wine is then
matured for 18 to 24 months
The wines are all Bordeaux, in French oak barrels, thus
but what Bordeaux! And with adding the final flourish to a
the wine list changing weekly, cuvée that’s lauded by critics.
there is always something
new to experience.
WA 91 WS 92 WA 92 WS 91
2020
AROMAS FRANCE AROMAS FRANCE
2020
RIPE DARK FRUIT, HERBS, CHÂTEAU D’AIGUILHE 2010, CEDAR, OAK, MENTHOL,
FLOWERS DARK FRUIT LA FLEUR DE BOÜARD 2010,
CASTILLON-CÔTES DE BORDEAUX LALANDE-DE-POMEROL
ACIDITY – MODERATE $43.00 11637314, 750 ML, ACIDITY – MODERATE
$53.50 11636178, 750 ML,
15% ABV 14.5% ABV
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
NUMBER OF CASES: 200 NUMBER OF CASES: 200
BODY – MEDIUM A gem from the Von Neipperg vineyards. BODY – FULL A modern and seductive wine from the
PHOTO: YVES SAMUEL.
Planted on the property’s highest Boüard de Laforest family, also the proprietors
PALATE – GENEROUS elevation, the vines get great light PALATE – GENEROUS
of the illustrious Château Angélus.
WOOD – EVIDENT
and are grown biodynamically. WOOD – PRONOUNCED GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC,
GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC CABERNET SAUVIGNON
September 2013 5
HAPPY HOUR IN BORDEAUX (CONTINUED)
The problem in Bordeaux can be deciding
where to eat. A table overlooking the
L’Estacade Garonne has its advantages.
A RESTO WITH A VIEW Alice and François Esposito, who
inherited L’Estacade from their father,
take a break with waiter Tom Piraveau
(left) between the lunch and dinner
services. “The team is essentially the
same as when my father was alive,”
Alice notes with pride.
6 September 2013
IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
Rack of lamb, fresh
EASY GOURMET thyme and potato purée
Rack of lamb with thyme with foie gras make
a lovely autumn dish. SEPTEMBER 5
RECIPE ON SAQ.COM
O
ne of the finer the start, continues to make sure
restaurants on the that diners experience a treat
right bank of the for the taste buds as well as the
Garonne in Bordeaux, eyes. Montemont studied under
L’Estacade looks out the great Paul Bocuse and then
on a city that has reacquired its Guy Martin, chef-owner of the
lustre under Mayor Alain Juppé. famed Michelin two-star Grand
Built on stilts and designed to Véfour in Paris. Sweetbreads with RVF 16.5 WS 90
look like an upscale fishing cabin, morels as well as prawn risotto
L’Estacade boasts an exceptional are just a couple of the specialties AROMAS FRANCE
2018
view of Place de la Bourse across at L’Estacade. For patrons who BLACK CHERRY, ANISE,
COFFEE CHÂTEAU CAMBON LA PELOUSE
the river. The restaurant was want to continue sipping wine CRU BOURGEOIS 2010, HAUT-MÉDOC
ACIDITY – MODERATE
founded 15 years ago by Jean- with dessert, the menu includes $28.20 11609381, 750 ML,
14% ABV
Marie Esposito and from the chocolately offerings such as a SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
NUMBER OF CASES: 1000
start drew the likes of Jacques warm biscuit with grilled white BODY – MEDIUM Exceptional quality-price ratio!
Chirac and other politicos. Sadly, chocolate. Speaking of wine, the An ideal introduction to Bordeaux,
Esposito died two years ago, but extensive selection runs to more PALATE – GENEROUS
and will delight long-time fans too.
his chef, Frédéric Montemont, than 100 prestigious cuvées from WOOD – EVIDENT GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
who’s been at L’Estacade from Bordeaux and beyond. PETIT VERDOT
September 2013 7
IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
HAPPY HOUR IN BORDEAUX (CONTINUED)
SEPTEMBER 5 SEPTEMBER 5
THE HAUT-MÉDOC
By “Bordeaux” and “the Médoc,”
people are often in fact referring
to the Haut-Médoc, which is
both an appellation and a zone
encompassing illustrious communes
like Saint-Julien, Margaux and
Pauillac. Cabernet Sauvignon is
the dominant grape variety in the
area’s red wines. The region also
includes its share of grands crus
classés, which have excellent
keeping potential and can be
good value for the price. The
Haut-Médoc, which extends for
about 60 kilometres northwards
from the city of Bordeaux,
produces just under one third
of Médoc wines.
WA 89 WS 88
RVF 16.5 WS 90
AROMAS 2018
FRANCE
RASPBERRY, ROASTED CHÂTEAU SÉNÉJAC CRU BOURGEOIS 2010, AROMAS FRANCE
2017
NOTES, MINERAL NOTES, HAUT-MÉDOC DARK FRUIT, CEDAR,
BLACK OLIVES, HERBS GRAPHITE, OAK CHÂTEAU D’AGASSAC CRU BOURGEOIS 2010,
$26.35 11622930, 750 ML, HAUT-MÉDOC
ACIDITY – MODERATE 13.5% ABV ACIDITY – MODERATE
$31.00 11639977, 750 ML,
NUMBER OF CASES: 350 13% ABV
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
Château Sénéjac owes its revitalization NUMBER OF CASES: 500
BODY – MEDIUM to the Cordier sisters, Nancy and the BODY – MEDIUM The unorthodox owners of Château
late Lorraine. The family has also owned d’Agassac eschew standardized taste and
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS
Château Talbot for nearly 100 years. deliver their very best, year after year.
WOOD – EVIDENT GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, WOOD – EVIDENT GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
CABERNET FRANC, PETIT VERDOT CABERNET FRANC
8 September 2013
WINE REGION BORDEAUX 2010 VINTAGE
A GREAT YEAR
• Winning conditions
Low yields, relatively little rain and cool
nights, particularly in August, resulted
in very fine wines that are balanced
and refreshing.
• Compared to 2009
The 2010 wines have more acidity and more
pronounced tannins than the 2009s, which
are generous affairs that are more voluptuous
and velvety. Interestingly, this echoes the
pattern with Bordeaux’s famed 1989 and 1990
vintages, also of great quality.
Gi
ro
• Perfect Parker scores
nd
e Early this year, American wine guru Robert
Parker revisited his assessments of the
Médoc 2010 Bordeaux, awarding perfect scores
(100 points) to more than 10 properties,
among them Pontet-Canet (Pauillac),
Pauillac Pape Clément (Pessac-Léognan) and
Saint-Julien Beauséjour (Saint-Émilion).
Atlantic Ocean
Margaux • Excellent cellaring potential
Saint-Émilion Some producers compare 2010 to 2005,
Bordeaux while others go so far as to evoke the
acclaimed 1990 vintage. Certainly most
2010s can easily be cellared for 10 years,
and the top-classified wines with the
famous names can go twice that distance.
• With food
Because they’re fairly tannic, especially
in their youth, 2010 Bordeaux reds go best
with meats cooked rare, a matchup that
will soften the wines’ astringency.
HAPPY HOUR IN BORDEAUX (CONTINUED)
Another stop that makes a visit to
the wine-centric city of Bordeaux so
memorable: the Max Bordeaux Wine
Gallery, where – wonder of wonders –
you can order the great Bordeaux crus
by the glass. Sommelier Leagh Barkley,
pictured on the cover of this issue, is a
native of Vancouver. A passionate wine
connoisseur, he delights in sharing his
knowledge with patrons.
GREAT WINES
BY THE GLASS, SVP
E
xploring the Bordeaux region
and its fabled appellations is
a dream come true for many
visitors. But in the centre
of the city of Bordeaux, far
from the world-famous wine estates,
opportunities to sample the area’s grands
crus do not exactly abound. That’s why
the Max Bordeaux Wine Gallery is such
a beacon. Located on vibrant Cours de
l’Intendance, the “gallery” offers a rare
treat: tastings of Bordeaux crus classés,
minus any pressure to buy. Although the
interior design is so contemporary as to
verge on cold, the many wines available,
at comparatively affordable prices, certainly
warm the heart. Pessac-Léognan, Médoc,
Graves, Pauillac – the names alone make
you thirsty! No food is served on the
premises. Rather, you first tour the place
as if it was a museum, then settle in to try
PHOTO: YVES SAMUEL.
a wine or two, either for the pure enjoyment
of it or to assess the options before adding
to your cellar. You can also sign up for a
tasting workshop.
10 September 2013MARJORIE JÉRÔME BENJAMIN JULIE
IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
Languedoc-Roussillon
A TASTE OF “ The foods you ate as
HOME
SEPTEMBER 19
a child and the wines of
your native region stay
special your whole life.
- Jérôme Ferrer
”
Can anything beat food to remind you of where you
grew up? Jérôme Ferrer, Julie Quoyer, Benjamin
Lacroix and Marjorie Chartier all live in Montreal but
hail from Languedoc-Roussillon. Here they share their
favourite regional dishes, plus accompanying wines.
CHEF JÉRÔME FERRER
PHOTO PORTRAITS: MAUDE CHAUVIN. CULINARY STYLIST: ANNE GAGNÉ. RECIPE PHOTOS: ANDRÉ DOYON.
BOLES DE PICOLAT
Chef Jérôme Ferrer grew up in Tournissan, where his father Adrien, a
farmer, had 20 hectares of vines. In the late 1980s, Corbières producers
CULINARY STYLIST: HEIDI BRONSTEIN. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON.
were paid to pull up their vines to solve a production-surplus problem.
“My sister and I had other career plans,” recalls Ferrer, who operates WA 89+
several restaurants in Montreal, including the acclaimed Europea. “My
AROMAS
father was terribly sad as he pulled up the vines. It was heartbreaking. EARTH, SPICES,
2018
But in the end he had the good sense to leave five or six hectares intact, SANDALWOOD, DARK FRANCE
which he then sold to my second cousin. Papa is now battling leukemia, FRUIT, DRIED HERBS, J.M. & V. ALQUIER LA MAISON
SWEET LICORICE JAUNE 2009, FAUGÈRES
and my sister and I, knowing that this wine [produced from the vineyard] ACIDITY – MODERATE $26.70 10779791, 750 ML,
means everything to him, have repurchased the vines. For the past month 14% ABV
at my establishments, we’ve had available the red or white cuvées of La SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
Terre de Mon Père. The property also makes a fantastic mistelle called BODY – MEDIUM J.M. & V. Alquier already had an
Cartagène that’s drunk chilled as an aperitif. And it produces a late- excellent reputation when Faugères
harvest wine, made entirely with Grenache, that’s named Adrien, PALATE – GENEROUS obtained AOC status in the early 1980s.
for my father.” In the case of this family, the expression “wine is life” WOOD – SUBTLE
That reputation still holds today.
is apropos indeed. GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE
September 2013 13Languedoc-Roussillon
A TASTE OF HOME (CONTINUED)
Jérôme Ferrer only cooks
his beloved boles de
picolat (a Catalan meatball
dish) at home, when he’s
having friends over, but
was kind enough to share
his recipe with us.
BOLES DE PICOLAT
(MEATBALLS WITH GREEN OLIVES)
INGREDIENTS
Meatballs
625 g (1 1/4 lb) ground pork
375 g (3/4 lb) ground beef
1 thick slice stale pain de
campagne (or 3 to 4 slices
of any bread), dipped in
warm milk
4 eggs
1 shallot, minced
2 sprigs parsley, chopped
DIRECTIONS 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Salt and freshly Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 2 hours
ground pepper
STEP 1 STEP 5
Sauce In a large bowl, combine the pork and beef Dampen your hands and shape the meat mixture
with the bread, eggs, shallot and parsley. into small meatballs the size of an apricot.
3 large onions, minced
Season with salt and pepper. Brown the meatballs in a skillet and add them
6 to 8 cloves garlic to the pot.
STEP 2
Flour
Mix well with your hands. Let rest while you STEP 6
5 tomatoes, peeled, make the sauce. (If the mixture is too soft, Pour the reserved mushroom-rehydration water
seeded and cut in half let rest for a few hours or overnight). into the pot (the meat should be covered with liquid).
125 g (1/4 lb) green olives, Add the carrots.
pitted and blanched STEP 3
In a pot, brown the onions and garlic in oil. STEP 7
75 g (3 oz) dried ceps, rehydrated Sprinkle with flour and continue cooking Leave to simmer gently for about two hours.
in warm water for 15 minutes; for several seconds. Adjust seasoning as necessary.
reserve water for cooking
250 g (1/2 lb) carrots, STEP 4
cut into sticks Add the tomatoes, green olives and ceps.
Reserve the water they soaked in. Let simmer.
Olive oil
14 September 2013IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
SEPTEMBER 19 SEPTEMBER 19
RICH AND CONCENTRATED,
La Côte by Château de la Négly has
notes of blackcurrant and sweet spices
on the nose. Its full mouthfeel makes
it ideal with the hearty family dish
of boles de picolat, creating a pairing
that’s warm and comforting, like so
many Catalonian traditions. One taste,
and you’ll want to buy a plane ticket
for Languedoc.
INTENSELY AROMATIC,
Domaine Clavel’s Bonne Pioche is
a blend of Syrah and Grenache that
comes in contact with wood during
maturing and gives off the garrigue
scents typical of Languedoc wines.
The spicy notes from the Syrah
accentuate the green olives and
tomatoes in boles de picolat, while
the roundness provided by the
Grenache complements the dish’s
soft texture.
WA 88-89
JR 16
AROMAS 2016
FRANCE 2016
SANDALWOOD, DARK CHÂTEAU DE LA NÉGLY LA CÔTE 2009, AROMAS FRANCE
FRUIT, SPRUCE, LICORICE, COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC LEATHER, DRIED DARK FRUIT, DOMAINE CLAVEL BONNE PIOCHE 2010,
CINNAMON LICORICE, THYME, TEA PIC SAINT LOUP
$18.20 11925640, 750 ML,
ACIDITY – MODERATE 14.5% ABV ACIDITY – MODERATE $20.70 11925658, 750 ML,
14% ABV
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY NUMBER OF CASES: 200 SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
When he replanted this vineyard
BODY – MEDIUM near La Clape, Jean Paux-Rosset had BODY – MEDIUM Matured in large oak barrels, certified
one ground rule: The right grapes in organic, unfined and unfiltered:
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS fruit purity as interpreted by avowed
the right place. The result says it all.
WOOD – EVIDENT GRAPES: CARIGNAN, GRENACHE, WOOD – SUBTLE
“vinarchist” Pierre Clavel.
MOURVÈDRE, SYRAH GRAPES: SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE, GRENACHE
September 2013 15Languedoc-Roussillon
A TASTE OF HOME (CONTINUED)
SEPTEMBER 19
A tasty, rich and
commendably balanced
blend of Syrah, Grenache
and Mourvèdre, Domaine de
Montcalmès pairs perfectly
with the bold flavours of
alouettes sans tête (beef
paupiettes). Parsley, garlic
and green olives call for
well-crafted wines like
this one, sourced from the
sunny terraced vineyards
of Larzac in southern
France. The dish’s salty,
strong personality meets
an alter ego in the Syrah’s
spicy freshness, which
is nicely offset by the
RECIPE ON SAQ.COM Grenache’s fruitiness and
the Mourvèdre’s tannins.
JULIE QUOYER
ALOUETTES SANS TÊTE
Julie Quoyer grew up in Montpellier and moved to Montreal
three years ago to work on her post-doctorate in health biology,
2017
with a view to researching better cancer treatments. “When I AROMAS FRANCE
get homesick, I get out my mother’s recipe book. It comforts me. CHERRY, RASPBERRY, DOMAINE DE MONTCALMÈS 2010,
SWEET SPICES, COCOA COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC
My boyfriend and I live very much à la française. We have lunch ACIDITY – MODERATE $37.75 12008325, 750 ML,
at 1 p.m. and never sit down to dinner before 9 p.m. In France, 14% ABV
my mother cooks a lot – and really well – so when we visit it’s SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
NUMBER OF CASES: 150
quite the feast! There’s a ritual to it, starting with my father going BODY – MEDIUM A vin de plaisir from Frédéric Pourtalié,
down to the wine cellar to fetch some fantastic wines. But the who trained with Alain Graillot and
food is the true centrepiece, so my father has to tailor his wine PALATE – GENEROUS at Grange des Pères and now runs
selections to the dishes. In other words,” Quoyer concludes with WOOD – SUBTLE
his own family winery.
a laugh, “at home my mother’s the boss.” GRAPES: SYRAH, GRENACHE, MOURVÈDRE
16 September 2013IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
Pasta-based macaronade is
the dish par excellence for
sharing around a table. The
same goes for La Sarabande,
SEPTEMBER 19
a Mediterranean blend with
round tannins that delivers
instant pleasure. Served
slightly chilled (16°C to
17°C), it refutes the idea
that red wine is only for red
meat. Provençale herbs,
tomatoes and curry marry
splendidly with this Domaine
Les Grandes Costes cuvée.
RECIPE ON SAQ.COM
BENJAMIN LACROIX
MACARONADE DE SÈTE
Benjamin Lacroix, like Quoyer, is a health-biology researcher 2015
working on his post-doctoral degree. He grew up in the Gard area FRANCE
AROMAS DOMAINE LES GRANDES
of Languedoc-Roussillon before moving to Les Vans in the Rhône BLACKCURRANT, COSTES LA SARABANDE 2008,
and then Montreal. “What I miss most about home are the cheeses WINTERGREEN, EUCALYPTUS, COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC
ANIMAL NOTES
and sausages. One time my mother sent me a care package of a ACIDITY – MODERATE
$23.20 11925691, 750 ML,
14% ABV
box of jelly beans – though I can’t bring myself to reveal what was
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY NUMBER OF CASES: 125 (6 BOTTLES)
actually inside the box, just in case a customs officer ever reads
this!” The macaronade he’s so fond of is a dish that originated Jean-Christophe Granier, back at the
BODY – MEDIUM family winery since 2000, strives to
in Italy, where it’s made with meat. In the fishing village of Sète, produce complete and sincere wines.
however, it’s been adapted to feature seafood. “The best version PALATE – GENEROUS
This one is worth discovering.
I ever had was at Les Demoiselles Dupuy on the Sète waterfront,” WOOD – ABSENT GRAPES: GRENACHE, CINSAULT, SYRAH,
recalls Lacroix. CARIGNAN
September 2013 17Languedoc-Roussillon
A TASTE OF HOME (CONTINUED)
Bouillinade, a flavourful and
rustic-looking fish dish, can
happily embrace red wine.
Côté Mer, a blend dominated
SEPTEMBER 19
by Grenache, is a great
choice because its smooth
mouthfeel and silky tannins
echo the dish’s texture.
Moreover, this is a wine that
goes beautifully with intense
flavours, and bouillinade
contains ingredients such as
cayenne, parsley and garlic.
RECIPE ON SAQ.COM
MARJORIE CHARTIER
BOUILLINADE
Just the dish for fish lovers: assorted rockfish cooked in a potato-
based soupe blanche. In Perpignan, where Marjorie Chartier grew up,
bouillinade was often served at family gatherings. “My job involves
putting together custom trips that feature lots of local culture,” says BD 15 RVF 16
Chartier, a tour organizer with Equinox Voyages. “And in Roussillon, this
dish is ubiquitous.” After 18 years in this province, Chartier still tries to AROMAS
stick closely to her grandmother Paquita’s recipe for bouillinade, though VIOLET, RASPBERRY, FRANCE
2016
GRAPHITE
she replaces monkfish and scorpion fish with burbot and ocean perch, DOMAINE DE LA RECTORIE CÔTÉ MER
ACIDITY – MODERATE 2011, COLLIOURE
depending on what’s available here fresh. “Bouillinade is less well known $24.85 10781242, 750 ML,
than Marseilles’ bouillabaisse and has a very different taste,” notes the SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 14% ABV
globe-trotting Chartier. “Bouillabaisse, a traditional Marseilles dish, is BODY – MEDIUM NUMBER OF CASES: 125
made with rouille [a provençale sauce containing garlic and saffron]; A balanced and redolent red, Côté
bouillinade is seasoned with cayenne – a legacy of the Catalan presence PALATE – GENEROUS Mer is from Domaine de la Rectorie, a
in Roussillon. While I admit I’m hardly objective, I have to say that WOOD – SUBTLE
property on the Mediterranean coast.
I really think bouillinade deserves to be better known.” GRAPES: GRENACHE, CARIGNAN, SYRAH
18 September 2013IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
SEPTEMBER 19
SEPTEMBER 19
MAURY GOES DRY
Big news from the vin doux naturel
universe: The Maury AOC label is no
longer reserved exclusively for the
appellation’s fortified sweet wines, but
now extends to its dry wines as well. The
new rules came into effect with the 2011
vintage; previously, dry Maury wines
could only be labelled with the more
general Côtes du Roussillon-Villages
appellation name. But while appellation
authorities changed the regulations after
pressure from producers, they also
imposed strict specifications. For
example, the wines must contain a
minimum 60 percent of Maury’s flagship
grape variety, Grenache Noir. The
Maury appellation is about 50 kilometres
northwest of Perpignan.
2018 2018
FRANCE FRANCE
AROMAS LA PRÉCEPTORIE COUME MARIE 2011, AROMAS DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC LES
DRIED DARK FRUIT, DATES, MAURY SEC LIME BLOSSOM, PEACH, COCALIÈRES 2012, MONTPEYROUX
MOCHA, SWEET SPICES $22.45 11956841, 750 ML, PEAR, HONEY, ALMOND
$25.20 11926950, 750 ML,
ACIDITY – DISCREET 15% ABV ACIDITY – MODERATE 13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 125
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
Known for its sweet wines, this region The red Les Cocalières is already
BODY – MEDIUM now produces non-fortified wines under BODY – FULL well known in Quebec. The white is
the Maury Sec AOC. Coume Marie terrifically exuberant and pairs nicely
PALATE – GENEROUS is a joint project of the Parcé family PALATE – RICH
with exotic cuisines and cheeses.
WOOD – EVIDENT
and local vignerons. WOOD – SUBTLE GRAPES: ROUSSANNE, MARSANNE,
GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, CARIGNAN GRENACHE BLANC, VERMENTINO
September 2013 19BEHIND THE WINE OLIVIER PITHON
AT A GLANCE
“True, naming a wine after a cow
seems bizarre,” Olivier Pithon says
of his Cuvée Laïs. “But it’s not so
weird when you consider that Laïs
is a Jersey cow and therefore an SEPTEMBER 19
Anglo-Norman breed. And that
nicely sums up the wine: all the
freshness and liveliness of the
north married with the richness
of the Mediterranean.”
Pithon favours indigenous grapes
such as Maccabeu, Grenache
and Carignan. His domaine is
widely viewed as being among
the benchmark properties
in Roussillon.
His yields are very limited; he
gives each terroir an opportunity
to express itself as fully as
possible in the wine.
Who he is
Brother of well-known Loire vigneron Jo, Pithon is, in his own
right, one of Languedoc-Roussillon’s rising new stars, despite
having produced wine there only since 2001. His cuvées are
praised virtually unanimously by the specialty press, including
the prestigious La Revue du vin de France.
His philosophy
Pithon sees agriculture as a coherent whole. Along with 15 hectares
of vines, he has six cows and several beehives. His soils, enhanced
by his biodynamic farming practices, are alive and expressive. FRANCE
2017
AROMAS DOMAINE OLIVIER PITHON CUVÉE
His wines ANISE, DARK FRUIT, LAÏS 2010, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON
LEATHER, OLIVES
They’re generous, like most wines from southern France. What sets ACIDITY – MODERATE
$23.10 11925720, 750 ML,
13.6% ABV
them apart, experts say, is their precision, as well as their intense
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY NUMBER OF CASES: 125
aromas and flavours.
This domaine is the life’s work of Oliver
BODY – FULL Pithon, brother of the Loire’s well-known
His definition of a good wine Jo Pithon. A robust red, Cuvée Laïs is
A wine that can convey to the drinker the location and the climate – PALATE – STRUCTURED
perfect with grilled or braised dishes.
the terroir, in other words – of its place of origin, while also reflecting WOOD – EVIDENT GRAPES: CARIGNAN, GRENACHE NOIR,
the objectives of the winemaker. SYRAH, MOURVÈDREIN STORES
Languedoc-Roussillon SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
A TASTE OF HOME (CONTINUED)
SEPTEMBER 19
Veteran vigneron
Gérard Gauby, whose
Les Calcinaires 2011 is
among this issue’s New
Arrivals, has known
Olivier Pithon (opposite
page) for years, having
helped him find his first
Roussillon vineyard.
RECIPE ON SAQ.COM
QUICK CASSOULET
SOMMELIER’S SUGGESTION BD 15.5 RVF 16
2016
FRANCE
With a dish as rich as cassoulet, it’s tempting to go for balance by selecting a AROMAS
PHOTO: PER KARLSSON, BKWINE 2/ALAMY (PITHON).
DOMAINE GAUBY LES CALCINAIRES 2011,
wine that has pronounced acidity. But don’t take this to extremes, as you want CHERRY, SPICES, FLOWERS, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES
UNDERGROWTH
to maintain some kind of connection between the food and the wine. To help you $23.15 11222186, 750 ML,
ACIDITY – MODERATE 13% ABV
avoid so-called vins de soif, or thirst-quenchers that have appealing acidity but
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY NUMBER OF CASES: 175
can lack body, I recommend Domaine Gauby’s Les Calcinaires, a Côtes du
Roussillon-Villages red with meaty tannins. It’s thirst-quenching, yes, but it An assertive, easy-drinking and fresh
BODY – MEDIUM red from the legendary Gerard Gauby,
also has good structure. Syrah’s acidity gives the wine a tension that balances
a leading advocate of the region and its
the generosity of the cassoulet, while the Mourvèdre and Carignan in the blend PALATE – GENEROUS
ability to produce fine and elegant wines.
deliver structure to the wine. WOOD – SUBTLE GRAPES: SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE,
— Kler Yann Bouteiller CARIGNAN, GRENACHE
September 2013 21The Rhône Valley
Yves Rivoiron at the entrance to
his Café des Fédérations. As in all
traditional Lyon bouchons, patrons
A CLASSIC LYON BOUCHON
here eat copiously.IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
EASY GOURMET 5 AND 19
Chicken in vinegar sauce
Bouchon food, inspired by what
Lyon mothers cook at home,
dovetails with the current “snout
to tail” trend, whereby every part
of the pig is used. Other bouchon
dishes include the traditional
chicken in vinegar sauce.
SEPTEMBER 5
“ Vegetables are
rare here – which
is a good thing when
it comes to wine,
because wine goes
so much better
with pig than with
RECIPE ON SAQ.COM
bell peppers.
– Yves Rivoiron, owner,
”
Renowned for serving up generous portions Café des Fédérations
of food alongside Rhône Valley wines,
Lyon’s iconic bouchons have been a staple
of France’s culinary capital for a century.
F
From the leatherette for “authenticity,” our table –
banquettes to shared with backpackers and
the chequered freemasons – groans with the
tablecloths and the kind of home-style fare that made
sausages hanging these quirky Lyon restaurants
FOOD PHOTO: ANDRÉ DOYON; FOOD STYLIST: HEIDI BRONSTEIN;
from the ceiling, everything at so successful in their heyday.
Café des Fédérations is classic Puy lentils, hot and cold sausages
2016
Lyonnais bouchon – including and warm potato salad are AROMAS FRANCE
and especially owner Yves followed by quenelles lyonnaises STRAWBERRY, RASPBERRY, DOMAINE CHARVIN 2011,
SPICES CÔTES DU RHÔNE
Rivoiron, who adds his own (dumplings), gras double (tripe),
ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CAROLINE SIMON.
ACIDITY – MODERATE $21.20 11766618, 750 ML,
unique touch to recreating tête de veau (calf’s head) and 15% ABV
the atmosphere of a post-war andouillette (a kind of sausage). SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
NUMBER OF CASES: 200
bouchon. “Just seat them with Not keen on offal? Try to put that BODY – MEDIUM From a property that produces
other people,” he tosses off to the word out of your mind and simply traditional-style wines. Delectable
waitress with feigned indifference savour the flavours – of both PALATE – GENEROUS and easy-drinking, this cuvée should
when he learns we don’t have a the food and the accompanying WOOD – ABSENT
be served slightly chilled.
reservation. Reflecting the vogue Côtes du Rhône wines. GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, CARIGNAN
September 2013 23THE RHÔNE VALLEY (CONTINUED)
Le Bouchon des Filles “ We serve vegetables! And we
have a good wine list along with
A TWIST ON TRADITION the customary carafes of Beaujolais
or Côtes du Rhône. You have to
In an update of the bouchon concept, Isabelle Comerro
and Laura Vildi choose to serve lighter cuisine at their
move with the times.
”
– Isabelle Comerro, owner, Le Bouchon des Filles
establishment, a spin that’s proved very popular.
24 September 2013IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
SEPTEMBER 5
Funnily enough, Isabelle Comerro of the new-fashioned Le Bouchon des Filles and Yves Rivoiron
of the oh-so-traditional Café des Fédérations are a couple. Then again, opposites attract...
“W
orking in traditional pudding in puff pastry with herbs.
bouchons made us And quenelle, usually served in
realize that what nantua sauce, a rich béchamel
was needed was a containing crayfish butter, here
version for women,” comes in miniature form atop
says Isabelle Comerro as she a simple bed of lettuce. FRANCE
2016
puts a dish featuring lettuce – “The bouchon cannot AROMAS JEAN-MICHEL GÉRIN CHAMPINE 2011,
a rare commodity in a bouchon – disappear,” Comerro declares. PEPPER, RED FRUIT, COLLINES RHODANIENNES
MINERAL NOTES $20.15 11871240, 750 ML,
on the table. Traditionally, Lyon “It has an important purpose. ACIDITY – MODERATE 13% ABV
women cooked for their men; at It’s a meeting place that’s NUMBER OF CASES: 150
Le Bouchon des Filles, a unique integral to Lyon’s historical and SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
A pure Syrah from a dedicated vigneron
eatery with large pink doors, it’s social fabric. But lifestyles have BODY – MEDIUM who’s true to his beliefs and comes
the men cooking for the women. changed, and restaurants have from a family that’s been making
Examples of how les filles revisit to keep up.” Based on this night’s PALATE – GENEROUS wine for six generations. Happiness
tradition range from pot-au-feu patrons, even guys approve of WOOD – SUBTLE
in the glass.
with young vegetables to blood this change. GRAPE: SYRAH
September 2013 25IN STORES
SEPTEMBER
5 AND 19
THE RHÔNE VALLEY (CONTINUED)
SAY IT WITH SAINT-JOSEPH
Wines from the Saint-Joseph SEPTEMBER 5
appellation south of Lyon are among
the jewels of the Rhône. Their dark,
intense colour beckons like an
invitation to gather around a table
for a meal. Made from Syrah, the
northern Rhône Valley’s flagship
grape, they display notes of red
fruit, mauve flowers and spices.
Yves Cuilleron is skilled at bringing
out these aromatic expressions in
his Les Pierres Sèches, a delightful,
voluble wine. Chave’s Offerus,
meanwhile, delivers the same
fragrances but slightly more body.
With either, look to recipes that
contain black olives, herbes de
Provence, licorice and grilled
root vegetables.
SEPTEMBER 5
IWC 88-90
I WC 91 WA 88-90
AROMAS
2019
AROMAS FRANCE VIOLET, RASPBERRY,
PEPPER, ANISE, J.L. CHAVE SÉLECTION OFFERUS 2010, PEPPER, SPICES, FRANCE
2019
BLACKCURRANT, TOBACCO SAINT-JOSEPH SANDALWOOD
YVES CUILLERON LES PIERRES
ACIDITY – MODERATE $29.35 10230862, 750 ML, ACIDITY – MODERATE SÈCHES 2011, SAINT-JOSEPH
13.5% ABV $31.50 12008245, 750 ML,
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY 12.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 450
BODY – MEDIUM Jean-Louis Chave is acclaimed for BODY – MEDIUM NUMBER OF CASES: 150
everything he produces, including A fresh and classic Rhône Syrah with
PALATE – GENEROUS his négoce cuvées. Like the man, the PALATE – GENEROUS a fine and silky palate. Produced by a
WOOD – SUBTLE
wines have a great deal of character. WOOD – SUBTLE
much-admired vigneron. Pure pleasure.
GRAPE: SYRAH GRAPE: SYRAH
26 September 2013THE RHÔNE VALLEY NORTH | SOUTH
Lyon
Vienne
Saint-Joseph
Tain-l’Hermitage
Northern Rhône A HANDS-OFF APPROACH
Valence Winemakers are increasingly
adopting a non-interventionist
approach that respects the
SEPTEMBER 5
Montélimar environment and the terroir.
Southern Rhône Their vineyards are organic, they
intervene as little as possible
Cairanne with the grape juice and the
wine, and ideally they do not
Châteauneuf-du-Pape add sulphur. While some do
Avignon get tripped up, producing poorly
finished, rough-structured
wines with peculiar aromas,
others rise admirably to the
challenge. Marcel Richaud,
whose 50-hectare property is
considered one of the top wine
• Syrah in the north The catch-all term “Rhône estates in the Cairanne region of
wines” is somewhat misleading in that the region is southern France, is a leader in this
actually divided into two very distinct zones. The northern regard. Characteristic of the local
Rhône, running roughly from Valence to Vienne, produces terroir, his cuvées are immensely
red wines exclusively from Syrah. enjoyable at first sip. “All his
wines are of remarkable quality
• Grenache in the south Many reds from the and immediately appealing,”
La Revue du vin de France has
southern Rhône are made from Grenache Noir, often written. “Every year they gain
blended with Syrah, Mourvèdre or accessory grapes in finesse and precision.”
such as Cinsault and Carignan. The southern sub-region
lies between Avignon and Montélimar and accounts for
90 percent of the Rhône’s total output.
• Different climates The Mediterranean influence
is strongest in the southern Rhône, in appellations such
as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras. In
the north, the source of such superb wines as Côte-Rôtie
and Hermitage, the climate is more capricious and the
vintage effect more noticeable. AROMAS FRANCE
2015
DARK FRUIT, COOKED DOMAINE RICHAUD CAIRANNE 2011,
• Second to Bordeaux With 26 appellations and BLUEBERRY, TRUFFLE,
GARRIGUE
CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES
more than 5,000 properties cultivating 27 grape varieties, ACIDITY – DISCREET
$30.75 11861199, 750 ML,
15.5% ABV
the Rhône Valley is big – the second-largest wine region
NUMBER OF CASES: 125
in France – as well as beautiful. It makes mainly reds SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
(80 percent of the total), but also whites (6 percent) Marcel Richaud, one of the Rhône
BODY – FULL Valley’s highest-profile vignerons,
and of course rosés (14 percent), including the illustrious brings talent and passion to producing
Tavels. Organic farming is popular throughout the Rhône, PALATE – GENEROUS
mature, suave and pleasing wines.
making it second in this regard only to the Languedoc- WOOD – SUBTLE GRAPES: GRENACHE, MOURVÈDRE,
Roussillon region. SYRAH, CARIGNAN, COUNOISE
September 2013 27SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 7 ONLY
GET 2 FREE WINEGLASSES
WHEN YOU BUY 2 BOTTLES OF BORDEAUX
SEPTEMBER 5
WA 89 RVF 16.5 RVF 16.5 IWC RVF 17
WS 88 WS 90 WS 90 86-89 WS 89
WS 90
P. 8 2018 P. 7 2018 P. 8 2017 2018 2023
FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE
CHÂTEAU SÉNÉJAC CRU CHÂTEAU CAMBON LA PELOUSE CHÂTEAU D’AGASSAC CRU SARGET DE GRUAUD LAROSE CHÂTEAU LABÉGORCE CRU
BOURGEOIS 2010, HAUT-MÉDOC CRU BOURGEOIS 2010, BOURGEOIS 2010, HAUT-MÉDOC 2010, SAINT-JULIEN BOURGEOIS 2010, MARGAUX
$26.35 11622930, 750 ML, HAUT-MÉDOC $31.00 11639977, 750 ML, $34.50 11610007, 750 ML, $40.25 11609292, 750 ML,
13.5% ABV $28.20 11609381, 750 ML, 13% ABV 14% ABV 14.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 350 14% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 500 NUMBER OF CASES: 200 NUMBER OF CASES: 300
Château Sénéjac owes its NUMBER OF CASES: 1000 The unorthodox owners of An elegant wine from the Helmed by Nathalie Perrodo
revitalization to the Cordier Exceptional quality-price Château d’Agassac eschew renowned cru classé Château since 2006, Château Labégorce
sisters, Nancy and the late ratio! An ideal introduction standardized taste and deliver Gruaud Larose, whose slogan is: delivers, once again, a very
Lorraine. The family has also to Bordeaux, and will delight their very best, year after year. Le vin des rois, le roi des vins intriguing wine.
owned Château Talbot for long-time fans too. PAIRING: PORK SOUVLAKI (The wine of kings, the king PAIRING: LAMB TAJINE WITH
nearly 100 years. PAIRINGS: ROAST BEEF AU JUS, GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET of wines). PRUNES
GIZZARD SALAD SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
PAIRING: CHICKEN WITH OLIVES PAIRING: BEEF WELLINGTON
AND HERBS GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET WITH WILD MUSHROOMS MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC,
SAUVIGNON, PETIT VERDOT PETIT VERDOT
GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC,
PETIT VERDOT PETIT VERDOT, MALBEC
AROMAS AROMAS
RASPBERRY, ROASTED AROMAS AROMAS BLACKCURRANT, LEATHER, AROMAS
NOTES, MINERAL NOTES, BLACK CHERRY, ANISE, DARK FRUIT, CEDAR, LICORICE, SMOKE, RED FRUIT, CARAMEL,
BLACK OLIVES, HERBS COFFEE GRAPHITE, OAK MUSHROOMS FLOWERS
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT
28 September 2013WHILE SUPPLIES LAST.
LIMITED QUANTITIES.
Some conditions apply.
Details in stores.
SEPTEMBER 5
WA 91 WA 92 WA 92
WS 92 WS 90 WS 91
P. 5 2020 2021
P. 5 2020 P. 25 2016 P. 23 2016
FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE
CHÂTEAU D’AIGUILHE 2010, CHÂTEAU CORBIN GRAND CRU LA FLEUR DE BOÜARD 2010, JEAN-MICHEL GÉRIN DOMAINE CHARVIN 2011,
CASTILLON-CÔTES CLASSÉ 2010, SAINT-ÉMILION LALANDE-DE-POMEROL CHAMPINE 2011, CÔTES DU RHÔNE
DE BORDEAUX GRAND CRU $53.50 11636178, 750 ML, COLLINES RHODANIENNES $21.20 11766618, 750 ML,
$43.00 11637314, 750 ML, $49.75 11609217, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV $20.15 11871240, 750 ML, 15% ABV
15% ABV 15% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 13% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200
NUMBER OF CASES: 200 NUMBER OF CASES: 200 A modern and seductive wine NUMBER OF CASES: 150 From a property that produces
A gem from the Von Neipperg A 13-hectare property just from the Boüard de Laforest A pure Syrah from a dedicated traditional-style wines.
vineyards. Planted on the outside Pomerol now managed family, also the proprietors of vigneron who’s true to his Delectable and easy-drinking,
property’s highest elevation, by fourth-generation winemaker the illustrious Château Angélus. beliefs and comes from a family this cuvée should be served
the vines get great light and Anabelle Cruse-Bardinet. PAIRING: LAMB SHANK CONFIT that’s been making wine for slightly chilled.
are grown biodynamically. PAIRING: BEEF TENDERLOIN six generations. Happiness PAIRING: CHARCUTERIE PLATTER
GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET
PAIRING: GRILLED LAMB CHOPS WITH BORDELAISE SAUCE FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON in the glass.
GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH,
GRAPES: MERLOT, GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET PAIRING: STEAK WITH CARIGNAN
CABERNET FRANC FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON PEPPER SAUCE
GRAPE: SYRAH
AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS
RIPE DARK FRUIT, HERBS, AROMAS CEDAR, OAK, MENTHOL, PEPPER, RED FRUIT, STRAWBERRY, RASPBERRY,
FLOWERS DARK FRUIT, WOOD, PASTRY DARK FRUIT MINERAL NOTES SPICES
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – ABSENT
September 2013 29SEPTEMBER 5
WA IWC 91 IWC IWC
88-90 WA 88-90 89-91
88-90 JR 17
2017 P. 26 2019 P. 27 2015 P. 26 2019 2018
FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE
DOMAINE DE LA VIEILLE J.L. CHAVE SÉLECTION DOMAINE RICHAUD YVES CUILLERON LES PIERRES DOMAINE LA BOUÏSSIÈRE 2011,
JULIENNE LIEU-DIT CLAVIN 2011, OFFERUS 2010, SAINT-JOSEPH CAIRANNE 2011, SÈCHES 2011, SAINT-JOSEPH GIGONDAS
CÔTES DU RHÔNE $29.35 10230862, 750 ML, CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES $31.50 12008245, 750 ML, $31.75 11816531, 750 ML,
$25.85 10919133, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV $30.75 11861199, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV 15% ABV
14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 450 15.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 125
NUMBER OF CASES: 200 Jean-Louis Chave is acclaimed NUMBER OF CASES: 125 A fresh and classic Rhône Syrah Mountaineers at heart, the
Jean-Paul Daumen has been for everything he produces, Marcel Richaud, one of the with a fine and silky palate. Faravel brothers have no
tending his vines biodynamically including his négoce cuvées. Rhône Valley’s highest-profile Produced by a much-admired problem growing their vines
since 2000. The result? Wines Like the man, the wines have vignerons, brings talent and vigneron. Pure pleasure. on the steep granite slopes
that are top quality and utterly a great deal of character. passion to producing mature, PAIRING: HERB ROASTED CHICKEN of Dentelles de Montmirail
scrumptious. PAIRING: HOMEMADE PIZZA suave and pleasing wines. in the Rhône.
GRAPE: SYRAH
PAIRING: PULLED PORK WITH WITH BLACK OLIVES PAIRING: VENISON WITH PAIRING: GRILLED DUCK BREAST
FRUIT SAUCE GRAPE: SYRAH BLUEBERRY OR BLACKCURRANT
SAUCE GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH,
GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE
MOURVÈDRE, CINSAULT GRAPES: GRENACHE,
MOURVÈDRE, SYRAH,
CARIGNAN, COUNOISE
AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS
AROMAS AROMAS DARK FRUIT, COOKED VIOLET, RASPBERRY, NUTMEG, DRIED FRUIT,
VIOLET, RED FRUIT, PEPPER, ANISE, BLUEBERRY, TRUFFLE, PEPPER, SPICES, PEPPER, CHERRY, HERBS,
CINNAMON BLACKCURRANT, TOBACCO GARRIGUE SANDALWOOD MINERAL NOTES
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – DISCREET ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE
30 September 2013Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways
are permitted until the Monday following the release of
the products. Prices are subject to change without notice.
SEPTEMBER 19
IWC WA JR 16 JR 16
91-93 88-89 WS 86
WA
90-93
2023 P. 19 2018 P. 15 2016 P. 15 2016 2016
FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE
LE VIEUX DONJON 2011, DOMAINE D’AUPILHAC CHÂTEAU DE LA NÉGLY LA CÔTE DOMAINE CLAVEL BONNE CHÂTEAU LA DOURNIE ÉTIENNE
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LES COCALIÈRES 2012, 2009, COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC PIOCHE 2010, PIC SAINT LOUP 2009, SAINT-CHINIAN
$49.25 11966880, 750 ML, MONTPEYROUX $18.20 11925640, 750 ML, $20.70 11925658, 750 ML, $20.90 11942941, 750 ML,
14.5% ABV $25.20 11926950, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV 14% ABV 13.5% ABV
NUMBER OF CASES: 250 13.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 150
This wine has an intriguing NUMBER OF CASES: 125 When he replanted this vineyard Matured in large oak barrels, A family winery run by
and complex aromatic profile, The red Les Cocalières is near La Clape, Jean Paux-Rosset certified organic, unfined successive generations of
along with appealing freshness. already well known in Quebec. had one ground rule: The right and unfiltered: fruit purity women since the 1970s. The
From a traditionally operated The white is terrifically grapes in the right place. The as interpreted by avowed feminine touch comes through
family winery. exuberant and pairs nicely with result says it all. “vinarchist” Pierre Clavel. in this fine and elegant wine.
PAIRING: PORK MECHOUI exotic cuisines and cheeses. PAIRING: PARTRIDGE WITH PAIRING: GRILLED LAMB CHOPS PAIRING: PORK TENDERLOIN
PAIRING: ASIAN-STYLE STIR-FRY LENTILS WITH PRUNES
GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, GRAPES: SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE,
MOURVÈDRE, CINSAULT WITH COCONUT GRAPES: CARIGNAN, GRENACHE, GRENACHE GRAPES: SYRAH, CARIGNAN,
GRAPES: ROUSSANNE, MOURVÈDRE, SYRAH GRENACHE
MARSANNE, GRENACHE BLANC,
VERMENTINO
AROMAS
AROMAS SANDALWOOD, DARK AROMAS AROMAS
AROMAS LIME BLOSSOM, PEACH, FRUIT, SPRUCE, LICORICE, LEATHER, DRIED DARK FRUIT, LAVENDER, VIOLET, TART
KIRSCH, GARRIGUE, SPICES PEAR, HONEY, ALMOND CINNAMON LICORICE, THYME, TEA DARK FRUIT, GARRIGUE
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – RICH PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE
September 2013 31ICON LEGEND
WHITE WINE RED WINE Favourite
WINE PROFILE CHART
drink now through hold until
drink now the year indicated the year indicated Presence and intensity
of acidity, body, wood
The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply and other elements at
a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule. the time of tasting.
SEPTEMBER 19
WA BD 15.5
90-91 RVF 16
WS 91
2018 2016 P. 19 2018 P. 20 2017 P. 21 2016
FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE
CANET-VALETTE UNE ET MILLE DOMAINE DE BILA-HAUT LA PRÉCEPTORIE COUME DOMAINE OLIVIER PITHON DOMAINE GAUBY LES
NUITS 2010, SAINT-CHINIAN L’ESQUERDA 2009, CÔTES MARIE 2011, MAURY SEC CUVÉE LAÏS 2010, CÔTES CALCINAIRES 2011, CÔTES
$21.95 11964497, 750 ML, DU ROUSSILLON-VILLAGES $22.45 11956841, 750 ML, DU ROUSSILLON DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES
13.5% ABV $22.20 11925666, 750 ML, 15% ABV $23.10 11925720, 750 ML, $23.15 11222186, 750 ML,
NUMBER OF CASES: 150 13% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 150 13.6% ABV 13% ABV
Winemaker Marc Valette is one NUMBER OF CASES: 125 Known for its sweet wines, NUMBER OF CASES: 125 NUMBER OF CASES: 175
of the players in the renaissance This wine from famous this region now produces non- This domaine is the life’s work An assertive, easy-drinking
of Saint-Chinian. He started out “revealer of terroir” Michel fortified wines under the Maury of Oliver Pithon, brother of the and fresh red from the
selling his grapes, then founded Chapoutier is sheer bliss in a Sec AOC. Coume Marie is a joint Loire’s well-known Jo Pithon. A legendary Gerard Gauby, a
his own winery. bottle, and arrives just in time project of the Parcé family and robust red, Cuvée Laïs is perfect leading advocate of the region
PAIRING: FLANK STEAK WITH for cooler evenings. local vignerons. with grilled or braised dishes. and its ability to produce fine
RED-WINE-AND-SHALLOT SAUCE PAIRING: RABBIT WITH CURRANTS PAIRING: GRILLED VENISON PAIRING: BEEF FILLET and elegant wines.
GRAPES: GRENACHE, CARIGNAN, GRAPES: SYRAH, GRENACHE GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, GRAPES: CARIGNAN, GRENACHE PAIRING: BEEF-AND-CHILI-
SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE, CINSAULT CARIGNAN NOIR, SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE PEPPER FAJITAS
GRAPES: SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE,
CARIGNAN, GRENACHE
AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS AROMAS
THYME, MUSHROOMS, AROMAS DRIED DARK FRUIT, DATES, ANISE, DARK FRUIT, CHERRY, SPICES, FLOWERS,
INCENSE, RED FRUIT RIPE FRUIT, HERBS, TOBACCO MOCHA, SWEET SPICES LEATHER, OLIVES UNDERGROWTH
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – DISCREET ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – SUBTLE
32 September 2013SOURCES CITED
CATHERINE MICHEL FRANÇOIS
BD : Bettane & Desseauve (out of 20) PÉRINET LUSSIER BLONDEAU
IWC : International Wine Cellar,
Stephen Tanzer (out of 100)
JR : Jancis Robinson (out of 20)
RVF : La Revue du vin de France (out of 20)
These wine advisors were
WA : Wine Advocate, Robert Parker (out of 100) on the tasting committee
WS : Wine Spectator (out of 100) and helped select the
CELLIER favourites.
Wine advisor Wine advisor Wine advisor
SEPTEMBER 19 Kirkland SAQ Sélection Beaubien SAQ Sélection Saint-Hubert SAQ Sélection
BD 15 WA 89+
RVF 16
P. 17 2015 2018 P. 18 2016 P. 13 2018 P. 16 2017
FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE
DOMAINE LES GRANDES DOMAINE JEAN-BAPTISTE DOMAINE DE LA RECTORIE J.M. & V. ALQUIER LA MAISON DOMAINE DE MONTCALMÈS 2010,
COSTES LA SARABANDE 2008, SÉNAT MAIS OÙ EST DONC CÔTÉ MER 2011, COLLIOURE JAUNE 2009, FAUGÈRES COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC
COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC ORNICAR 2011, MINERVOIS $24.85 10781242, 750 ML, $26.70 10779791, 750 ML, $37.75 12008325, 750 ML,
$23.20 11925691, 750 ML, $24.60 11959372, 750 ML, 14% ABV 14% ABV 14% ABV
14% ABV 13.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 125 NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 150
NUMBER OF CASES: 125 (6 BOTTLES) NUMBER OF CASES: 125 A balanced and redolent red, J.M. & V. Alquier already had A vin de plaisir from Frédéric
Jean-Christophe Granier, back A strike prompted Jean- Côté Mer is from Domaine an excellent reputation when Pourtalié, who trained with
at the family winery since 2000, Baptiste Sénat to entirely de la Rectorie, a property Faugères obtained AOC status in Alain Graillot and at Grange
strives to produce complete change the direction of his on the Mediterranean coast. the early 1980s. That reputation des Pères and now runs his
and sincere wines. This one life and launch a winery. PAIRING: BLACK PUDDING still holds today. own family winery.
is worth discovering. This red is very promising. PAIRING: DUCK SHEPHERD’S PIE PAIRING: GRILLED DUCK BREAST
GRAPES: GRENACHE, CARIGNAN,
PAIRINGS: GRILLED DISHES, PAIRING: VEAL STUFFED SYRAH GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, GRAPES: SYRAH, GRENACHE,
RATATOUILLE WITH APRICOTS AND MUSTARD MOURVÈDRE MOURVÈDRE
GRAPES: GRENACHE, CINSAULT, GRAPES: GRENACHE,
SYRAH, CARIGNAN MOURVÈDRE, CINSAULT
AROMAS
AROMAS EARTH, SPICES,
BLACKCURRANT, AROMAS AROMAS SANDALWOOD, DARK AROMAS
WINTERGREEN, EUCALYPTUS, FLOWERS, SPICES, VIOLET, RASPBERRY, FRUIT, DRIED HERBS, CHERRY, RASPBERRY,
ANIMAL NOTES CINNAMON, HERBAL ACCENTS GRAPHITE SWEET LICORICE SWEET SPICES, COCOA
ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE ACIDITY – MODERATE
PHOTOS : JEAN TREMBLAY (ADVISORS).
SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY
BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM
PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS
WOOD – ABSENT WOOD – ABSENT WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE
September 2013 33You can also read
