Kgalagadi transfrontier park - March 2020 - 4x4 Community Forum

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Kgalagadi transfrontier park - March 2020 - 4x4 Community Forum
Kgalagadi transfrontier park – March 2020

I just had to get my annual “red sand injection”, my 10th visit to my most favourite South African
national park, so opted for a quick one-week getaway to recharge my batteries.
Our planned route was as below with distances roughly taken from GPS maps. These distances
exclude sightseeing and other driving in between etc, with the actual total distance covered being
2964km with an average fuel consumption of 5.93km/l(!). We travelled with a Land Rover
Discovery 4 SDV6 and a Bushlapa Miskruier offroad caravan with 2 adults and 2 boys aged 4
and 6.
Kgalagadi transfrontier park - March 2020 - 4x4 Community Forum
Daily log:

  Date       Distance Destination                             Comments

                                    Departed from Durbanville around 15:00 and travelled to
                                    Calvinia via Vanrhynsdorp.
                                    We camped at Klipwerf self-catering & camping, featuring
                                    very basic “campsites”, with a private ablution facility per site.
 28/2/20      407km     Calvinia
                                    At a normal fee of R200 for the night, a perfect, safe and
                                    recommendable stopover for the night.
                                    Given our late arrival we opted for dinner at the Die Blou
                                    Nartjie restaurant – fantastic food!

                                    After an early start in Calvinia we reached Upington earlier
                                    than expected and pushed on to get as close as possible to
                                    Twee Rivieren for an early entrance the next morning.
                                    After stocking up in Upington we decided to overnight at the
                                    Molopo Lodge, a mere 60km from the Kgalagadi entrance,
                        Molopo      where we could watch the rugby and the children could enjoy
 29/2/20      600km
                        lodge       the swimming pool. Once again, a very pleasant visit and
                                    key to note that they offer a 30% discount for one night if
                                    you have a valid Kgalagadi booking for the previous or
                                    following day.
                                    The manager, Dirk, is extremely helpful and will go out of his
                                    way to make your stay as comfortable as possible.

                                    This morning we were greeted by a heavy downpour, had
                                    breakfast at the lodge and headed towards Twee Rivieren.
                                    The first 60km to Twee Rivieren is a tar road and the
                                    remaining +-120km inside the park, to Mata Mata, a
                                    gravel/sandy road filled with muddy puddles. The Auob
                                    riverbed had some green covering, but not nearly as much as
                       Mata Mata    the Nossob riverbed – a clear sign that the western side of
 1/3/20       175km    (Kgalagadi   the park had much less rain than the eastern side.
                          NP)
                                    About 20km away from Twee Rivieren we saw our first male
                                    lion of the trip. It took about 3 hours to reach Mata Mata and
                                    set up camp amidst the continuous downpour.
                                    The ablution facilities were in top condition and the shop well
                                    stocked. Diesel and unleaded fuel were available and credit
                                    card payments accepted.

                                    The day was spent at leisure in and around camp with an
                                    early morning game drive blessing us with 4 cheetahs about
                       Mata Mata    10km from Mata Mata.
 2/3/20       60km     (Kgalagadi
                          NP)       The rain seemed to have dried up and the temperature
                                    quickly rose, making the camp swimming pool a very
                                    welcome amenity.
Kgalagadi transfrontier park - March 2020 - 4x4 Community Forum
Travelling via the upper dune road from Mata Mata to Nossob
                               highlighted the stark contrast between the western Auob- and
                               the eastern Nossob riverbeds. About 5km from the Nossob
                               riverbed the terrain quickly turned into a vast green
                               landscape filled with yellow flowers, making me wonder if I
                    Nossob
                               had just teleported to the Serengeti.
3/3/20   165km    (Kgalagadi
                     NP)       Sightseeing was however difficult due to the high grass and
                               in total it took about 4 hours to reach Nossob where we set
                               up camp for the next 3 nights.
                               Again, the shop was well stocked and diesel and unleaded
                               fuel available with credit card payment accepted.

                               The day was spent at leisure in and around camp with
                               several short game drives in various directions seeing two
                               lions south of Nossob.
                    Nossob     A sad sight was also seeing the remains of an old lion
4/3/20   100km    (Kgalagadi   female, at the Cubitje Quap waterhole, that passed away 2
                     NP)       weeks earlier due to natural causes, old age and being
                               rejected from her pride. The fact that hyenas did not pursue
                               this easy target surely must indicate in some way that nature
                               can be cruel, but also kind and generous in other ways.

                    Nossob     A day drive to Polentswa and the Lijersdraai picnic site, for
5/3/20   160km    (Kgalagadi   lunch, blessed us with a mating lion pair close to the picnic
                     NP)       site (visual distance).

                               Departed early and headed south to Twee Rivieren, stopping
                               for brunch at the Dikbaaardskolk picnic site. En-route we
                    Twee       saw several lions, a brown hyena, a leopard and 2 cape
                   Rivieren    cobras, confirmed that the Nossob riverbed had much more
6/3/20   150km
                  (Kgalagadi   wildlife than the dryer Auob riverbed.
                     NP)
                               South of Dikbaardskolk the landscape slowly turned back into
                               the drier environment as seen in the Auob riverbed.

                               Although the plan was to overnight midway, we opted to drive
                               back to Durbanville directly, via Calvinia, stopping for a late
                               breakfast at the Diamond T coffee shop in Ashkam.
7/2/20   1100km     Home       We arrived at home around 20:30 the evening, parked the
                               caravan in the garage, had a quick shower and fell asleep
                               dreaming of red dunes, lions roaring and magnificent sunsets
                               over lush green camelthorn trees…
Kgalagadi transfrontier park - March 2020 - 4x4 Community Forum
Trip highlights:

 - Experiencing rains and thunder in the Kgalagadi – my previous similar experience was 18
   years ago in 2002.
 - Sharing my most favourite African destination with my children for the first time.

Lessons learnt (some for the 100th time)

 - Have a cup with a lid for coffee et al in the Kgalagadi. Flying insects love surprising you at
   every sip.
 - Do not leave any food items outside, even if in a sealed container. Black-backed jackal
   roam the camps at night, are extremely sly and will literally scavenge meat from your rooster
   if given the slightest of changes. Be warned - they can open ammo boxes!
 - Don’t be in a rush when game viewing. Do your research on animal movements, take some
   coffee and snacks and wait for wildlife to come to you.
 - Grocery prices in the park are quite fair with good quality meat and freshly baked
   roosterkoeke and bread on offer. There is therefore no need to carry everything along from
   home.
 - Always carry your passport with you, despite not intending to travel across borders. At Mata
   Mata you can easily slip into Namibia to stock up on meat at the local farmers, plus the most
   scenic, and shortest, return trip to Cape Town is via the Rietfontein border and south with
   the B1, Noordoewer and the N7.

Pictures:

Klipwerf self-catering & camping                    Molopo lodge

Flooding enroute to Twee Rivieren                   Mata Mata campsite
Kgalagadi transfrontier park - March 2020 - 4x4 Community Forum
Lioness asleep near Lijersdraai picnic site

                                               Lioness sleeping near Lijersdraai picnic site

Kids learning about animals

                                               Nossob campsite

Random springbok

The lush green fields on the upper dune road

Dikbaardskolk picnic site                      Sunset at Nossob
Kgalagadi transfrontier park - March 2020 - 4x4 Community Forum
Water in Auob riverbed   Twee Rivieren campsite

Random Gemsbok           Lioness near Kij Kij

Lioness near Kij Kij     Lion near Lijersdraai picnic site
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