HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg

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HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
HAMBURG
ST. PAULI
THE HEART OF HAMBURG
HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
CONTENTS
04 St. Pauli Experts                                                  38 Theatre & Musicals
08 The Daytime Tour                                                   40 Reeperbahn
14 Shopping                                                           42 Reeperbahn Festival
20 Galleries & Museums                                                46 Restaurants & Cafés
24 HafenCity                                                          52 Hamburg without Limits
26 Cruise                                                             54 Pubs & Bars
28 Events & Markets                                                   58 Clubs & Live Venues
30 FC St. Pauli                                                       62 Staying Overnight
32 The Evening/Night Tour                                             66 Adults Only
                                                                      74 City Map
                                                                      76 Underground Map
      TOP-TIP:
Watch out for our top tip hotels: We have personally inspected
these hotels for you and are convinced that they offer good
quality, excellent service, and a central location.

      Hamburg CARD – your ticket to discovery
Free travel by bus, rail and harbour ferries, as well as top condi-
tions at more than 150 tourist attractions, where you see this
symbol. Further information at: hamburg-tourismus.de/card

Advice. Booking. Service.
Tel. +49 (0)40.300 51 958

                                                                                       3
HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
ST. PAULI                               “What makes St. Pauli so
                                                  special are the district’s

          EXPERTS
                                                  uniqueness and the way the
                                                  people stick together. My
                                                  absolutely favourite place in
                                                  the quarter is the St. Pauli
     THOMAS ANGELE, JULIA CATHARINA               Church. It is a place of calm
        STARON, VICTOR HACKER                     and reflection, in contrast to
                                                  the hustle and bustle on St.
                                                  Pauli.” Thomas Angele
                                                  (owner “Der Kiezbäcker”)

Three people told us what they thought about
St Pauli, and they ought to know. Our St. Pauli
experts have all taken this neighbourhood into
their hearts and made it their home. Each in
their own way, but all with an unwavering love
of the cosmopolitan and passionate heart of
Hamburg, which is no longer just a district
and has instead become a legend.

04                    04
                      4                                                            5
HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
ST. PAULI EXPERTS
Diversity

                         “The Kiez is Hamburg’s flam-
                         boyant and wild side, and I fell
                         in love with it straight away. A
                         village where the whole world
                         is at home, filled with a unique
                         family feeling.” Julia Catharina
                         Staron, restaurateur, booker,
                         curator at the Sankt Pauli
                         Museum

                                                            “St. Pauli lives from its diversity. The
                                                            meeting of different characters. Its mix
                                                            of a wide variety of individuals. The
                                                            rough and the smooth – the contrasts
                                                            are a necessary part of the “human
                                                            melting pot” of St. Pauli. As someone
                                                            who alternates between nostalgia and
                                                            the modern, I can get equally enthusias-
                                                            tic about the past and the future. I like
                                                            it most of all when you can experience
                                                            both at the same time: Like in the Gun
                                                            Club on Hopfenstraße. Old-school punk
                                                            rock and contemporary weird people
                                                            are both at home here.” Viktor Hack-
                                                            er, dubbing actor, author, humorist and
                                                            doorman on the Kiez

                    06                                                                        07
                                                                                               7
HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
THE DAYTIME
           TOUR
                AROUND THE REEPERBAHN

                                                                      You can see the
                                                                                       e
                                                                     exact route of th
                                                                                   . Pa uli
                                                                    tour on the St
                                                                                     74 .
                                                                      map on page

                                         The Reeperbahn is famous and notorious for
                                         its wild night-life, but we also absolutely
                                         recommend that you take a look at this sinful
                                         mile by daylight – especially as you can find
                                         all Hamburg’s varied attractions nearby.

A colourful citizen’s project with
a special flair: Park Fiction.
                                     8                         09
                                                               9
HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
THE DAYTIME TOUR
Variety
The perfect start to an exciting      its numerous cafés (e.g. Café          Before you set off on your way        apartments, office buildings and
sightseeing tour. If you start        Geyer) and restaurants, radiates       there, however, it’s worth making     hotels of the Neue Hafenkrone
your voyage of discovery at the       calm and serenity.                     a side trip into the BAVARIAN         district. The legendary Astra
S-BAHN-STATION REEPER-                                                       QUARTER – a genuine architec-         beer was brewed here up to
BAHN (stairs at HANS-ALBERS           Because even a loud and licen-         tural eye-catcher. The best way       2003.
SQUARE), you are already in the       tious quarter like St. Pauli needs     to get there is via BERN-
immediate vicinity of two famous      a haven of peace (and a place for      HARD-NOCHT-STRASSE with
hotspots of Hamburg nightlife:        atonement): If you follow              its houses and pubs, typical for
On your right is Silbersackstraße     Antonistraße, you pass the ST.         the Kiez, or via HAFEN-
with the cult pub “Zum Silber-        PAULI CHURCH, which opened             STRASSE, the colourful façades
sack”, where celebrities like         in 1911. A little further straight     of which are reminiscent of the
Heinz Rühmann, Freddy Quinn           ahead, the docks and loader            years between 1984 and 1990 –
and Hildegard Knef amused             cranes come into view. At the          of political resistance, squatted
themselves decades ago. Just a        end of the road in PARK FIC-           houses, and street battles. On
few metres further straight           TION – an urban oasis with arti-       the site of the former Bavaria-St.
ahead, you can see the tranquil       ficial palms – you finally have a      Pauli Brewery, there are now the
side of St. Pauli: The picturesque    splendid view over the Hamburg
HEIN-KÖLLISCH-PLATZ, with             harbour.

PANIK CITY –                                                                 LINE A –
The Udo Lindenberg Experience          led by the guides through the         The Red Double Decker                 planks 1-2, on the Reeperbahn
The multimedia exhibition PANIK        different stages of Udo’s life in a   With the day ticket of Line A         opposite the Davidwache and
CITY – THE UDO LINDENBERG              90-minute tour .                      you can explore all the facets of     the Hafentreppe.
EXPERIENCE is located on the                                                 this fascinating harbour
Reeperbahn, on an area of              daily approx. 10 am–10 pm at         metropolis. A day of hop-on,          die-roten-doppeldecker.de
around 700 m², in the St. Pauli        the Klubhaus St. Pauli, Spielbuden-   hop-off exploration. The stops        #hamburgerleben
Clubhouse, which has a media           platz 21–22, panikcity.de             in St. Pauli are on the gang-
façade, which has won many
awards. This innovative techno-
logical, artistic, and
cultural project traces
the musical, artistic
and socio-political
activities of the excep-
tional artist Udo Lin-
denberg and uses
innovative technology
to bring them to life.
Groups of up to 20
people are
                                 10                                                                               11
HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
THE DAYTIME TOUR
    Variety

The two tubes of the old Elbe Tunnel at the gangplanks.

    From here you have the perfect              come across the restored sailing
    view of the heart of Hamburg:               ship Rickmer Rickmers, 97
    The GANGPLANKS with their                   metres long, and one of the last   Panoptikum –
    domes and the gauge tower.                  tall ships of commercial ship-     The Waxworks
    This former “water railway sta-             ping. From here you can already    120 life-sized wax figures of
    tion” for passenger shipping is             see another highlight: The ELBE    famous personalities, from
    now a hub for Elbe ferries, and             PHILHARMONIC. Hamburg’s            Elizabeth II to Olivia Jones,
    underground and suburban rail-              new landmark and flagship is an    await you in the Panoptikum,
    ways. At its western end is the             architectural work of art and a    Germany’s oldest waxworks.
    entrance of the OLD ELBE                    unique concert-house offering a    Selfies are more than welcome.
    TUNNEL. Pedestrians, car driv-              magnificent view of Hamburg’s      A free audio guide takes you
    ers and cyclists can reach the              harbour from its publicly acces-   through the exhibition.
    other side of the Elbe through              sible plaza. And now that you
    the two 426.5 metre long tun-               are already here, we recommend     Spielbudenplatz 3, 20359
                                                                                   Hamburg, tel. 040.31 03 17
    nels of this splendid listed con-           that you make another side trip    panoptikum.de
    struction.                                  into HAFENCITY – Hamburg’s
    A few hundred metres further                biggest building project.          Opening hours:
                                                                                   Mon–Fri 11 am–9 pm,
    to the east of the Elbe, you will                                              Sat 11 am–midnight
                                                                                   Sun 10 am–9 pm

                                           12                                                                       13
HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
SHOPPING
KIEZ, SCHANZE & KAROVIERTEL

                                                   The throwaway society is outdated – at the product design factory Lockengelöt
                                                   everything revolves around the recycling of everyday objects through re-purposing.

                                                     Lockengelöt
                                                     This factory gives everyday objects a new face. Vinyl fans are par-
                                                     ticularly well-catered for here: Bowls, egg-cups, and lamps are
                                                     manufactured by hand from old records. A couple of oil barrels
                                                     also find a new use as a smart cupboard, and books are turned
                                                     into wardrobes. You will be impressed by both the design and the
                                                     recycling factor.
                                                     Marktstr. 114, Mon–Fri 11 am–7 pm, Sat 11 am–6 pm,
                                                     lockengeloet.com

                                                                                             Art Kiosk
                                                                                             Art Kiosk is tucked between a
                                                                                             greengrocer and a hairdresser in
                                                                                             the most beautiful road of St.
                                                                                             Pauli. The shelves are full of many
                                                                                             lovingly handmade unique items
                                                                                             from various Hamburg artists: self-
                                                                                             carved children’s toys, clothing,
                                                                                             unusual jewellery, and accessories.
                                                                                             The monthly exhibitions provide an
                                                                                             extra serving of art on top.
                                                                                             Paul-Roosen-Str. 5,
                                                                                             Mon–Sat 11 am–7 pm,
                                                                                             kunstkiosk-hamburg.de

                  Young, original, special – the
                  Vergizzmeinnicht is typical of
            14    St. Pauli’s creative scene.                                                 15
HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
SHOPPING
Kiez
Dekoop Design                                  Sisterhood.Brotherhood
Functional and rooted in the region:           As well as Berkemann health shoes,
including key racks with Hamburg               fashion fans will also find footwear
motifs or pendants made of felt with           from Gola, Le Coq, and Dunlop. The
a screen print St. Pauli inscription.          range of clothing extends from swim-
Kleine Freiheit 1 / Laden 8,                  wear to revival underwear to Finnish
dekoop.de                                      fashion, great accessories and
                                               gifts. Oh, and you can also find coffee
                                                                                           The Wohngeschwister have the furniture and accessories to
Kunsthaltestelle                               and espresso beans here, organic and
                                                                                           suit every taste.
The shelves are adorned by design              fair-traded of course.

                                                                                             Special
products from Hamburg and all over             Balduinstr. 15, Mon–Fri 12 pm–
Germany, such as maritime-themed               7.30 pm, Sat 11 am–6 pm
jewellery, cool home accessories and
artistic porcelain. Every fourth Friday in     Bidges & Sons                                 Oldest Tattoo Studio in Germany              Groove City Recordstore
the month is “Exhibition Friday”, when         An insider tip among the inhabitants of       From skulls to flowers – a variety of        This record shop in the Karoviertel sup-
works by a changing selection of artists       St. Pauli: Bidges & Sons stands for           tattooing styles have been practised         plies all vinyl junkies with their favour-
are exhibited.                                 streetwear with unique design that            here since 1946. The artists cater to        ite records – whether it be Funk and
Marktstr. 147, Mon, Wed–Fri 1 pm–6 pm         stands out from the crowd – 100%              individual wishes and each motif is only     Soul, Jazz, Hip-Hop, Latin, Afro, Headz
Sat 11 am–6 pm, kunsthaltestelle.com           vegan, 100% fair, 100% sustainable.           used once.                                   and Electro, soundtracks or Reggae.
                                               Stressed-out shopping friends can relax
                                                                                             Hamburger Berg 8, die-aelteste.de           Marktstraße 114, Mon-Sat 11 am–
Crazy Jeans                                    in the generously sized chill-out corner                                                   7 pm, groove-city.com
The name says it all: At Crazy Jeans           with soft drinks, coffee and cocktails.       Studio Buehler
you will find extraordinary jeans and          Reeperbahn 7, Mon–Thur 12 pm–8 pm,           Grenades filled with hundreds and            Hanseplatte
shirts in wild designs. It rocks! Uriah        Fri–Sat 12 pm–11 pm, Sun 12 pm–8 pm,          thousands, and sticking plasters with        From Heidi Kabel to DJ Koze: The Han-
Heep and Alice Cooper have already             bidges-sons.com                               captions like “Memme” (“sissy”) –            seplatte is the best-stocked record
been shopping here – and they liked it.                                                      Studio Buehler has an abundance of           shop when it comes to music from
Because this shop is also well known
for its friendly personnel.                    On the Kiez                                   humorous gift ideas. Everyday objects
                                                                                             are turned into special gifts with a
                                                                                                                                          Hamburg.
                                                                                                                                          Neuer Kamp 32, Mon–Fri 11 am–7 pm,
Reeperbahn 127, Mon–Sun 12 pm–                                                              striking statement.                          Sat 10 am–6 pm, hanseplatte.de
10 pm, crazyjeanshamburg.de                    Aladin Center
                                                                                             Kl. Freiheit 1/6, tel. 0177.37 28 40 7,
                                               A lot of stuff for little money – cheap       appointments by arrangement,
Just Fitteds                                   clothing, jewellery and bric-a-brac; any-     studiobuehler.com
Specialising in visor caps: Jan Delay and      one who doesn’t have anything in their
Samy Deluxe have already been spotted          wardrobe for the bad-taste party has a        Suicycle
among the customers ...                        rummage here.                                 This is one of the best and most popu-
Feldstr. 31, Mon–Fri 12 pm–7 pm,              Reeperbahn 89, Mon–Sun 10 am–                lar bike shops in Hamburg. The owners
Sat 11 am–6 pm, justfitteds.com                11 pm, aladincenter-reeperbahn.de             have specialised, in particular, in the
                                                                                             building and sale of fixed-gear and sin-
Vergizzmeinnicht                               St. Pauli Fanshop                             gle-speed bikes.
Showroom, studio, exhibition area and          The second official FC St. Pauli fanshop
                                                                                             Wohlwillstr. 12, Mon–Fri 12 pm–7 pm,
workshop, all in one. The manufactur-          has opened on the Reeperbahn directly         Sat 11 am–5 pm, suicycle-store.de
ers also produce to measure and to             opposite the Davidwache. The shop

                                                                                             Vinyl Shops
order.                                         offers every conceivable fan item under
Simon-von-Utrecht-Str. 86,                    the slogan “The street wears St. Pauli”.
Mon–Fri 1 pm–7 pm, Sat 12 pm–5 pm,             Reeperbahn 63–65,
vergizzmeinnicht.de                            Mon–Thur 11 am–8 pm, Fri–Sat                  Vinyl Back Records
                                               11 am–11 pm, Sun 11 am–6 pm,                  Funk, Soul, Indie, Punk and Alternative.
                                               fcsp-shop.com                                 Despite its modest size, this little shop
                                                                                             in the basement offers every style of
                                                                                             music you can think of.                      At Hanseplatte you will find not only
                                                                                             Wohlwillstr. 24, Tue–Fri 12 pm–7 pm,        good vinyl, but also clothing, books, and
                                                                                             Sat 12 pm–4 pm                               live music.

                                          16                                                                                             17
HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG - Come to Hamburg
SHOPPING
 Schanzen
 District                                       Karoviertel
 La vie est belle                               glore
 The name says it all: Gorgeous jewel-          Colourful T-shirts, pretty dresses, and
 lery from labels like Faules Mädchen           loud trousers – modern streetwear, one
 and Belle de Merde.                            hundred-percent ethically correct: the
 Bartelsstr. 8,                                fashion is fairly produced from organic
 Wed–Fri 12 pm–7 pm, Sat 12 pm–6 pm,            materials. Glore stands for “Globally
 lavieestbelle-hamburg.de                       Responsible Fashion”.
                                                Marktstr. 31, Mon–Sat 11 am–7 pm,
 Wohngeschwisterchen                            glore-hamburg.de
 From the colonial-style sofa and the
 antique, country-look cabinet to the           Vunderland
 fairy-tale child’s bed – at Carsten and        In addition to clothes, the knowledgea-
 Dag Lübke’s shop you will find a num-          ble fashionista will find shoes, bags,
 ber of beautiful items of furniture,           accessories and much more besides in
 apartment accessories, and gift ideas.         this strictly vegan store. Whenever they
 Schulterblatt 98,                             have the time, you will also find the
 Mon–Sat 10.30 am–6.30 pm,                      boys and girls at vegan street festivals
 wohngeschwisterchen.de                         and markets.
                                                Marktstr. 137, Mon–Sat 11 am–7 pm,
                                                                                                                          Free Page
                                                                                           TOUR BOOK                            HAMBURG TOURISM
                                                vunderland.de
                                                                                           ON SITE                              WEBSITE

                                                                                           Your travel guide with all           Detailed information, expert
                                                                                           attractions, addresses, city         tips for your travel plan and

Bed. Breakfast. Hamburg!                                                                   map and interactive route
                                                                                           navigation. Download it for
                                                                                                                                up-to-date bargain offers.
                                                                                                                                hamburg-tourismus.de

What more do you need?                                                                     free at hamburg-app.de!

                                                                                           HAMBURG TOURISM                      HAMBURG TOURISM
                                                                                           HOTLINE                              CUSTOMER SERVICE

                                                                                           Your personal hotline for indi­      We are also there for you
                                                                                           vidual advice and booking.           every day: Visit our Tourist
                                                                                           +49 (0)40.300 51 958                 Information at the main railway
                                                                                                                                station, Kirchenallee Exit — we
                                                                                                                                look forward to seeing you!
             Double Bedrooms                                      Dorm Bedrooms

                                            a&o hamburg reeperbahn
                                            Reeperbahn 154
                                            20359 Hamburg
                                            booking@aohostels.com

              Decent Breakfast

                                           18                                                                                  19
GALLERIES &
 MUSEUMS                                              In the Maritime Museum, you can see, among other things, around 26,000 model ships
                                                      from the collection of Professor Peter Tamm Senior.

  DISCOVER CULTURE
                                                        Rickmer Rickmers                         International Maritime Museum
                                                        This 117-year-old tall ship once         Hamburg
                                                        sailed to Asia and Africa, was           Everything to do with the his­
                                                        afterwards used as a training            tory of shipping is exhibited on
                                                        ship, and has been in the Hanse-         seven stories in the historic
                                                        atic city since 1983. This               warehouse building Kaispeicher
                                                        three-masted barque can be               B in HafenCity: Model ships and
                                                        viewed by visitors following ela­        pirate flags, old weapons and
                                                        borate restoration work: On the          paintings, documents and of
                                                        museum ship the visitors receive         course precious treasures.
                                                        interesting insights into shipping       Koreastraße 1, daily 10 am–
                                                        over the last 100 years and their        6 pm, imm-hamburg.de
                                                        means of propulsion – wind,
                                                        steam and diesel technology.             Millerntor Gallery
                                                        Gangplanks, Ponton 1a, daily            Once a year, the Millerntor Sta-
                                                        10 am–6 pm, rickmer-rickmers.de          dium becomes a venue for art,
                                                                                                 culture and political commit-
                                                        ANGEL*KLUB –                             ment. Through art, music and
                                                        VJ and Art Gallery                       sport, this international art,
                                                        In the blue house on the har-            music, and culture festival, held
                                                        bour, the Angel*Klub, a self-de-         by Viva con Agua de St. Pauli
                                                        scribed “sound-film-picture-bar-         e.V. and FC St. Pauli, inspires
                                                        club”, provides a space for              visitors to become involved in
                                                        audiovisual events and art exhi-         society. The objective: To show
                                                        bitions. Large wall areas and            how everyone can play a posi-
                                                        ceilings almost four metres high         tive role in the shaping of socie-
                                                        create a charming atmosphere             ty and actively effect social pro-
                                                        for special sound and image              cesses of change.
                                                        installations.                           Millerntor Stadium,
                                                        St. Pauli Fischmarkt 18                 Harald-Stender-Platz 1,
                                                                                                 millerntorgallery.org
        Every year, the Millerntor Stadium becomes
        an open platform for dialogue and
        exchange. Artworks from all genres and a
        varied range of music, culture and training
        are20shown.                                                                            21
GALLERIES & MUSEUMS

                                                                                                                                                 *Status: 08/2018 | Hamburg Tourismus GmbH | Wexstraße 7 | 20355 Hamburg | Photo: Getty Images/AngiePhotos
    Discover culture
                                                                                                                            GET
                                                                                                                                more ...

In 1990 Karlo Kanibalo, alias Karl Hilse, founded the Art Store St. Pauli, a good alterna-
tive to normal galleries: The exhibitions change each month, and the artworks are
affordable.

    Art Store St. Pauli                           Affenfaust Gallery
    In this gallery shop, you can admire          The Affenfaust Gallery has been show-
    paintings on driftwood and coffee sack,       ing urban and contemporary art since
    and a very wide range of acrylic and oil      2012. A philosophy of being multi-­

                                                                                                                                          OR 2
                                                                                                                            4 FOR 3 or 3 F
    paintings.                                    faceted, varied and open, has here led
    Wohlwillstr. 10, Tue, Wed, Sat 12.30         to a lively space for a very wide range
    pm–6 pm, Thur–Fri 3 pm–6 pm,                  of art-forms such as photography,

                                                                                                                            1 NIGH* T
    artstorestpauli.com                           installation, paint, film, readings and
                                                  music.
    8. Salon                                      Paul-Roosen-Str. 43,

                                                                                                                            FREE !
    Located in a former library, the gallery      tel. 0176.755 33 188,
    creates an ideal link between theory,         Wed–Thur 3 pm–7 pm, Sat 2 pm–6 pm,
    production, presentation and marke­           affenfaust.org
    ting: In the rear area, students and art-
    ists use several studio places. At the
    front, a large exhibition area with a
    library opens out to visitors.
    Trommelstr. 7, tel. 64 88 19 30, Thur–
                                                                                             • From 3 or 4 nights
    Sat 3 pm–6 pm (or by arrangement),                                                         in selected hotels
    8salon.net
                                                                                             • 1 Hamburg CARD – free travel
                                                                                               with bus & train included

                                                                                             Secure your free night and book now:
                                                                                             +49 (0)40 300 51 958
                                                  All kinds of urban and contemporary art    hamburg-tourismus.de/
                                                  are shown in the Affenfaust Gallery.
                                                                                             eine-nacht-geschenkt

                                             22                                                                                23
HAFENCITY         HafenCity is Hamburg’s mammoth construc-
                  tion project: A modern work and residential
  ARCHITECTURAL   location is to be created in a maritime location
    DELIGHTS      on 1.65 square kilometres of floor area, and
                  Hamburg’s urban development is to be driven
                  forward.

                  Around 1,800 apartments have         There are all kinds of things to
                  already been completed and           discover: the International Mari-
                  more than 730 companies are          time Museum, the traditional
                  now based in HafenCity. And          harbour in Sandtorhafen and
                  the end is not yet in sight: This    the Prototyp car museum on
                  major project is expected to last    Shanghaiallee. And – it cannot
                  until around 2025/2030.              be mentioned often enough –
                                                       since 2017 there has also of
                  But enough of the boring             course been the much-admired
                  fi­gures! HafenCity is above all     Elbe Philharmonic Hall, a work
                  an architectural and cultural        of art by the Swiss architects
                  treat! Hardly any other district     Jacques Herzog and Pierre de
                  combines the past and the            Meuron that impresses from
                  modern world in such a unique        both outside and inside.
                  symbiosis as this district on the
                  Elbe. More than 800 years of
                  harbour tradition and the latest
                  building architecture here face
                  each other.

                                                      25
CRUISE
                          Hamburg is the gateway to the          elegantly on the water, fascina­
                          world. Accordingly, there is lively    ting the many curious onlookers
                          shipping traffic in the heart of       who regularly come to the har-
HAMBURG’S MARITIME SIDE   the Hanseatic city on the Elbe.        bour to take a look. One can
                          This also includes the more than       marvel at small and large ships
                          50 cruise ships that moor in           at the two cruise terminals in
                          Hamburg every year and trans-          HafenCity and Altona – this is
                          form the Elbe into a stage. Each       where they moor.
                          cruise liner is more impressive
                          than the one before – and yet
                          they all glide majestically and

                                             All dates and information to do with cruises, the
                                               flying visits of the large cruise liners, and prac-
                                                    tical tips for cruise passengers and people
                                              interested in cruises can be found at our site at
                                                             hamburg-tourismus.de/kreuzfahrt

                                                                27
EVENTS &
EVENTS
MARKETS&                  Endless funfair rides and food stands – the Hamburger Dom fair on the Heili-

MARKETS
                          gengeistfeld fairground offers action, fun and thrills.
  HARBOUR BIRTHDAY ETC.

HARBOUR BIRTHDAY ETC.       Hamburger Dom                          Hamburg Cruise Days
                            The “Dom” is the biggest funfair       The superlative cruise event:
                            in the north: Three times a year,      Every two years, when the ele-
                            in spring, summer and winter,          gant giants of the ocean visit
                            the Heiligengeistfeld is trans-        Hamburg, the harbour edge
                            formed into an enormous, glit-         becomes a world of experience
                            tering carpet of light made up         for three days – with culinary
                            of rides and food stalls. Every        highlights, music and entertain-
                            year, around ten million visitors      ment and a unique maritime
                            come to the square between the         atmosphere.
                            Millerntor Stadium and Karovi-         hamburgcruisedays.de
                            ertel. The rides there go rushing
                            into the sky and are not for           Harbour Birthday Hamburg
                            people with weak nerves.               In May, luxury liners such as the
                            The big wheel offers a more            Queen Mary 2 and other ocean
                            leisurely-paced alternative.           giants regularly join in the cele-
                            hamburger-mod.de                      brations at the world’s biggest
                                                                   harbour festival of the world.
                            Hamburg Fish Market                    One can marvel at these ships
                            It is worth getting up early:          at a glamorous parade as they
                            Since 1703 it has been possible        sail in and out of the harbour.
                            to pick up bargains from the           On top of this, lots of entertai­
                            market stands on a Sunday              ning events and concerts draw
                            morning, or to enjoy a fresh           visitors to the harbour-mile. The
                            “matjes roll” to finish off a night    highlights include the tugboat
                            of partying. The market criers         ballet.
                            pack their baskets fuller and          hafengeburtstag.de
                            fuller, shouting their slogans –
                            especially the local celebrity
                            Aale-Dieter. When the stands
                            batten down their hatches, you
                            can still sway to live music in
                            the Altona Fish Auction Hall.
                            hamburg-tourismus.de/
                            fischmarkt
                                                                  29
FC ST. PAULI
 THE KIEZ AND ITS KICKERS
                            From the Kiezclub to the Kultclub: FC St. Pauli
                            can look back on more than a hundred years of
                            history, full of highs and lows, falls and reco­
                            veries, with many defeats, yet always keeping
                            its heart in the right place.

                            This traditional Hamburg club         the club and its fans. The two
                            is regarded as the indie-punk         combine to form a community
                            band among professional clubs:        of shared values that sticks
                            Politically committed, united,        together through thick and
                            approachable, humorous, and           thin, always identifies with its
                            aware of its traditions – it is an    own neighbourhood, and is
                            alternative to the establish-         thus always informed by the
                            ment and commercialisation.           question of what the correct
                            The FCP was the first club in         attitude is, including outside
                            the Bundesliga to introduce           football.
                            rules against sexist and racist
                            remarks in its stadium rules,         And the fans are loud! You can
                            when such comments were still         hear their cheering and roaring
                            an everyday occurrence in the         in the 30,000 capacity Millern-
                            Bundesliga. This makes FC. St.        tor Stadium on the Reeper-
                            Pauli a club with a philosophy        bahn, on their Kiez, where they
                            that lots of members of the           stream after the game with
                            left-wing scene can identify          their brown and white skull and
                            with. This is why there is such       crossbones flag.
                            a special connection between

                                                                 31
THE EVENING/
 NIGHT TOUR
  DISCOVER THE ADVENTURE MILE

                                                              Impossible to miss: the Dancing Towers       All of Hamburg’s celebrities are repre-
                                                              mark the east entrance to the Reeperbahn.    sented in the Panoptikum – including
                                                                                                           Udo Lindenberg.

Night gradually falls and the first revel-                       Discover
lers are drawn to the hotspot of Ham-                            Hamburg
burg’s nightlife. Soon thousands of
tourists and locals are meandering                               The ideal starting point for your         Market (every Wednesday). The
through the Reeperbahn and its many                              night-time tour of the Kiez is the        Spielbudenplatz is surrounded
                                                                 U-BAHN STATION ST. PAULI.                 by various cultural locations,
side streets.
                                                                 The two crooked sky-scrapers              their façades sparkling with
                                                                 there mark the start of the               neon lights:
                                                                 930-metre-long party mile:                The TUI OPERETTENHAUS is
                                                                 The DANCING TOWERS were                   a popular attraction for fans of
                                                                 designed by the architect Hadi            musicals; the PANOPTIKUM is
                                                                 Teherani who described them as            Germany’s oldest wax museum
                                                                 a tango-dancing couple or even            and shows wax figures of impor-
                                                                 the knock-kneed legs of a pros-           tant personalities – from Hans
                                                                 titute. The building is the home          Albers to Pope Benedict – (Mon–
                                                                 of the legendary Mojo Club,               Fri 11 am–9 pm, Sat 11 am–12
                                                                 which, with the right beat and a          midnight, Sun 10 am–9 pm,
                                                                 bar with roof terrace, provides a         Spielbudenplatz 3,
                                                                 fantastic panoramic view for              panoptikum.de), and for all Panik
                                                                 merry-makers.                             pilgrims the PANIK-CITY is a
                                                                                                           new must-see. The “Udo Linden-
                                                                 Straight after this is the                berg Experience” combines Lin-
                                                                 SPIELBUDENPLATZ with its                  denberg’s music, art and life
                                                                 large, mobile stage. Events take          with the latest technology and
                        The Davidwache is probably Ger-          place here regularly, such as             was only inaugurated at the
                        many’s most famous police sta-           the Reeperbahnfestival, the               start of 2018 (panikcity.de).
                        tion and at the same time the
                        headquarters of Europe’s smal­           transmission of the Eurovision
                        lest police district, covering only      Song Contest, and the Night
                        92 hectares.
                                                                                                          33
The
Evening/Night Tour

                                                                                                                 Probably the Reeperbahn’s best known side
                                                                                                                                 street – the Große Freiheit.

Fortunately, however, there are        Strolling (and drinking) gives      Five silhouettes stand at its
various pleasurable alternatives       you an appetite! So it’s a good     edge, representing the famous
available on the Reeperbahn. For       thing that the main source of       mop-tops (including Stuart Sut-
example, there is the ST. PAULI        chips, bratwurst and currywurst     cliffe). This is another reason
MUSEUM          just around the        is waiting right at the crossing,   why the Reeperbahn is popular
corner. It tells the history and       announced by its flashing let-      with tourists from all over the
development of the district            ters: The delicious Kiez snack      world: Here on St. Pauli, proba-
through photos, documents and          bar LUCULLUS.                       bly the most famous rock band
films (Mon – Wed 11 am–6 pm,                                               of all time laid the foundation
Thur 11 am–9 pm, Fri 11 am–            Then, refreshed, its time to walk   for their global career – with
11 pm, Sat 10 am–11 pm, Sun            up Davidstraße, past the scanti-    gigs in the now closed Star-Club
10 am–6 pm).                           ly-clad ladies, to HERBERT-         on the Große Freiheit.
                                       STRASSE . This is one of the                                                 With ukulele: Stefanie Hempel is the inven-
A few metres further, the              last brothel streets in Germany.                                             tor of the musical Beatles Tour.
famous venues of SCHMIDT               Our apologies to all female
THEATER,        SCHMIDTS               tourists: Only men are granted
TIVOLI, SCHMIDTCHEN and                admission to this 60-metre-long
ST. PAULI THEATER follow in            street of sin.
rapid succession. The end of
this string of pearls is the           A few hundred metres later
pointy-gabled brick building of        you will finally arrive at
the DAVIDWACHE, the police             BEATLES-PLATZ: Circular, with
station famous from the ARD            a diameter of 29 metres and a
series “Großtstadtrevier”.             black surface, it visually resem-
                                       bles a vinyl record.                   Caution, hot and greasy! The snack bar Lucullus is a
                                                                              popular stop for hungry visitors to the Reeperbahn.

                                  34                                                                               35
The
    Evening/Night Tour
                                                                                   Kiez Tours
    Apropos GROSSE FREIHEIT:                  the Goldene Handschuh,               St. Pauli Kieztour with the St.      Waterkant Tours
    It is just around the corner.             Roschinsky’s, Barbarabar and         Pauli Tourist Office                 The perfect tour for people who
    Here there are strip clubs and            Rosi’s Bar, and also the main        All the guides here are genuine      want to get to know the Ham-
    table-dance bars, like Susis              place to party for many locals.      St. Pauli people – and that is       burg that lies beyond the usual
    Show Bar and the Dollhouse,               Almost every pub boasts a            why, on this tour, you are bound     sightseeing routes: The dynamic
    and various music clubs like the          small dance-floor, table football,   to hear some secret tips and         Waterkant team offers a three-
    Große Freiheit 36. And between            and hot Mexican schnapps for         personal stories - individual and    hour tour in one of their loving-
    these – looking like the last             toasting. The nearby HANS-           hundred-percent authentic!           ly modified VW minibuses and
    moral authority – stands Ham-             ALBERS-PLATZ, on the other           daily 7 pm from Wohlwillstr. 1,     show you their favourite places.
    burg’s oldest Catholic church             hand, with its statue of the         pauli-tourist.de                     An alternative to mass tourism
    St. Joseph’s.                             legendary Hamburg actor of                                                – exciting, entertaining, and lots
                                              the same name, is a popular          Hempel’s Beatles Tour                of fun!
    Anyone who feels like more sin            attraction for tourists. This        Stefanie Hempel takes groups         waterkant-touren.com
    can go pub-crawling on the                is what the Kiez is like: These      to the corners of St. Pauli where
    HAMBURGER BERG – the                      contrasting places stand close       the Fab Four took the first          Red Light Tour
    home of famous joints like                together.                            steps in their career; every now     An actress dressed as a 16th
                                                                                   and again she strikes up Beatles     century whore guides groups
                                                                                   songs on her small ukulele. With     through the streets, telling the
                                                                                   funny anecdotes, quotes and          history of prostitution, touching
                                                                                   photos, this tour, which the         upon the role of the Church,
                                                                                   young woman ends with a clos-        various sex practices, and
                                                                                   ing concert at “Gretel & Alfons”     un­usual aids. The tour ends
                                                                                   in the Große Freiheit, is a real     with a look into a brothel room,
                                                                                   experience.                          before the evening then draws
                                                                                   April–Nov, Sat 6 pm,                to a close with a meal and a
                                                                                   from U-Bahn Feldstraße,              glass of Hurenschnaps.
                                                                                   hempels-musictour.de                 Thur–Sat 8 pm, from David­
                                                                                                                        wache (minimum age 18 years),
                                                                                                                        tel. 04163.86 80 30, hurentour.de

Since 1986, Hans Albers has watched over the square that bears his name.

                                         36                                                                            37
THEATRE &
MUSICALS
         KIEZ CULTURE
                                                    Since its first performance in 2003, the St. Pauli Musical has
                                                    already delighted 2 million guests in Hamburg.

                                                      “Heiße Ecke” –                              Stage Operettenhaus
                                                      The St. Pauli Musical                       Hamburg
                                                      A musical love-letter to St.                Enjoy KINKY BOOTS, a
                                                      Pauli: It tells a story about the           heart-warming story about two
                                                      hedonists of the Kiez, who fall             people who at first glance seem
                                                      into each other’s arms or stab              to have nothing in common.
                                                      each other in the back, in one              Pop icon Cyndi Lauper wrote
                                                      place: at the snack bar “Heiße              the show’s soundtrack, which
                                                      Ecke”. Every evening, nine                  has won several prizes. With a
                                                      actresses and nine actors slip              perfect mix of moving ballads
                                                      into more than 50 roles and                 and catchy pop-rock numbers,
                                                      costumes to wow audiences                   she has made sure that there is
                                                      with superb memorable songs                 one thing that people in the
                                                      and a fascinating stage show.               audience will definitely not be
                                                      This musical, directed by thea-             able to do: sit still. This is fol-
                                                      tre boss Corny Littmann, has                lowed by another musical high-
                                                      already attracted more than 2               light in October, GHOST-DAS
                                                      million spectators to Schmidts              MUSICAL. This new stage pro-
                                                      TIVOLI. Before the musical, the             duction is an unforgettable
                                                      in-house restaurant “Schatto                experience, thanks to the pre­
                                                      Pauli” serves an exclusive “Heiße           sentation of the spirit of Sam,
                                                      Ecke-Menü”, with “Pavement                  who comes to life through
                                                      Princess Salad” and “Luden’s                magical effects and takes the
Tickets for all the city’s musicals can be booked     Favourite Dish”. The historian              audience into a world between
on the telephone number +49 (0)40.300 51 958          Wiebke Johannsen also guides                illusion and reality.
hamburg-tourismus.de/tickets.
                                                      theatre-goers through the Kiez              Stage Operettenhaus,
                                                      to the musical.                             Spielbudenplatz 1,
                                                      Schmidts TIVOLI, Spielbuden-               musicals.de
                                                      platz 27–28, tivoli.de

                                                                                                39
THEATRE & MUSICALS
    Music, Art
    and Readings                                                                                   Schmidt Theater                            St. Pauli Theater
                                                                                                   Since the “Familie Schmidt”                Hamburg’s oldest theatre
                                                                                                   around Corny Littmann took up              provides sophisticated entertain-
                                                                                                   residence in 1988, theatre has             ment with a programme
                                                                                                   been represented in the heart of           featuring a mix of classic and
                                                                                                   the Reeperbahn as a beautiful              new pieces, musical theatre
                                                                                                   and colourful cultural institu-            productions, and cabaret. In
                                                                                                   tion. Since then, there has been           the middle of the Reeper-
                                                                                                   colourful Kiez entertainment               bahn, in the immediate vicinity
                                                                                                   here with musical productions              of the Davidwache, famous
                                                                                                   like “Villa Sonnenschein – Sex             actors like Ben Becker, Heikko
                                                                                                   and Crime in the Nursing Home”             Deutschmann and Julia Jentsch
                                                                                                   and high-carat guest perfor-               have already stood on this stage.
                                                                                                   mances. The audience can find              Spielbudenplatz 29-30
Schmidts TIVOLI is a firmly established part        Weird and fluffy: “Schmidts Mitternachts-      refreshment in the house’s own
of Hamburg’s cultural life and possesses one        show” is a Hamburg classic, like Alster or
of the city’s most beautiful theatre halls.                                                        Schatto Pauli and in Dips 'n
                                                    Michel.
                                                                                                   Stix. Afterwards, you can go
    Schmidts TIVOLI                                                                                for a drink in the Bar Glanz &
    People in Hamburg cannot                        1994 and has since 2003                        Gloria or in Angie’s Nightclub –
    imagine the Reeperbahn – let                    focused on the criminal cases                  not only theatre guests are very
    alone the city’s cultural land-                 of Edgar Wallace etc. The pro-                 welcome there.
    scape – without Schmidts                        ductions combine the                           Spielbudenplatz 24-25
    TIVOLI. It delights its guests                  crime-story element of sus-
    with variety shows, musicals,                   pense with a good dose of
    guest performances and the                      humour.
    long-runners “Heiße Ecke” and                   Reeperbahn 5
    “Caveman”. The one-man show
    “CAVEMAN”, which has been in                    Skurrilum
    the programme since 2001, is                    One room, 1,000 riddles, and
    one of the most successful solo                 lots of fun! The SKURRILUM St.
    plays in Germany.                               Pauli is an innovative live escape
    Spielbudenplatz 27–28                          game from the creative minds
                                                    behind Hamburg’s Schmidt
    Imperial Theatre                                Theater. The rooms of SKURRI-
    Germany’s third-biggest crime                   LUM can be booked for groups
    story theatre provides murder-                  of 4-8 people. Tickets are avai­
    ous entertainment. This former                  lable at the Schmidt Theater
    porno cinema was converted                      and at www.skurrilum.de
    into the Imperial Theatre in                    Spielbudenplatz 21–22
                                                    (Klubhaus St. Pauli)
                                                                                                 “Stories become history” – the St. Pauli Museum is entirely dedicated to
                                                                                                 the district’s history.

                                               40                                                                                           41
THE
REEPERBAHN
  PLEASURE MILE
                  Sung of and described a thousand times,
                  known as “the most sinful mile in the
                  world”, the Reeperbahn is one of the most
                  famous entertainment sites in the world.

                  Popular films such as “Große          Hamburg’s harbour, St. Pauli
                  Freiheit Nr. 7” with Hans Albers      was soon regarded as a melting
                  from 1944 and songs like “Auf         pot and meeting place for peo-
                  der Reeperbahn nachts um halb         ple from all cultures and social
                  eins” have contributed to its         strata . The Kiez and its resi-
                  popularity and the mythos of          dents are still regarded as espe-
                  St. Pauli. Above all it is the        cially tolerant.
                  unique atmosphere of the red
                  light and entertainment district,     But a walk through the Reeper-
                  with sex clubs, harbour pubs          bahn shows that the Kiez is
                  and music clubs, which attract        being changed. Visually by mod-
                  millions of tourists to St. Pauli     ern buildings such as the Dan­
                  every year.                           cing Towers and the Klubhaus,
                                                        and in terms of atmosphere by
                  The name itself comes from the        stag nights, Ibiza-style partying,
                  ship’s chandlers, the “Reep-          and commercialisation. Oppo­
                  schlägern”, who here wove             sing this are the traditional
                  ropes up to 400 metres long           clubs and bars such as the “Zur
                  into hawsers. When Hamburg            Ritze” and “Silbersack” and resi-
                  incorporated the Reeperbahn           dents who care for the image
                  and the surrounding district –        and tradition of their Kiez. Seen
                  lovingly called “the Kiez” – in       from this perspective, the Kiez
                  1894, it had long since become        is what it always was: a place
                  known as an amusement mile            that is full of contrasts – and
                  for lonely sailors on shore leave.    never boring.
                  Because of its vicinity to the

                                                       43
REEPERBAHN
  FESTIVAL
 MUSIC, ART AND READINGS

                           Every year in September the Kiez     music festival, and has grown
                           more than lives up to its reputa-    rapidly since then. Now more
                           tion as a meeting place of the       than 37,000 people from all over
                           nations and a bastion of crea­       the world stream into the Reep-
                           tivity. During the Reeperbahn        erbahn, where they are enter-
                           Festival, everything is trans-       tained during the day with a var-
                           formed for three days: Church        ied programme of readings and
                           halls are turned into temporary      artistic and campus events, and
                           stages and even the smallest         in the evening by exciting music
                           pub dive becomes an exciting         acts in the district’s more than
                           concert venue. Europe’s biggest      70 clubs. Winner of the Europe-
                           club festival took place for the     an Music Award for “Best Indoor
                           first time in 2006, as a pure        Festival”!
          44                                                   45
Freudenhaus                         The food is traditionally Ameri-
                                                    Anyone who has achieved             can with spare ribs and a varie-

RESTAURANTS                                         something in St. Pauli can have
                                                    a dish named after them in the
                                                                                        ty of burgers.
                                                                                        And for dessert, you can enjoy

  & CAFÉS
                                                    Freudenhaus. The menu fea-          cocktails on the big roof terrace
                                                    tures dishes such as “Roulade       with a view onto Elbe.
                                                    Lilo Wanders” or “Spanferkel-       At St. Pauli Gangplank 5,
  CUISINE IN ST. PAULI                              braten Corny” (roast suckling       tel. 30 06 84 80, hardrock.com
                                                    pig). The walls are adorned with
                                                    paintings of bare-breasted          ÜberQuell
                                                    women. But that is not the only     The two scene connoisseurs
                                                    thing guests really appreciate;     Axel Ohm and Patrick Rother
                                                    the devotees of German cuisine      have realised their vision of
                                                    are also catered to here, with      Hamburg with ÜberQuell: their
                                                    potato soup, veal cutlets, pike-    own brewery, combined with a
                                                    perch fillet and apple pancakes.    pub and restaurant – urban,
                                                    Of course, for German food you      honest, handmade. With a
                                                    have to have German wine.           superb view of Hafenplatz, and
                                                    Hein-Hoyer-Straße 7–9,             an urban garden ambience, cus-
                                                    tel. 31 46 42,                      tomers enjoy ample dishes with
                                                    stpauli-freudenhaus.de              their own house character.
                                                                                        St. Pauli Fischmarkt 28–32,
                                                    Hard Rock Cafe Hamburg              Mon–Thur from 5 pm, Fri–Sun
                                                    Bright red plateau shoes from       from 12 noon, ueberquell.com
                                                    Elton John, a slate grey army
                                                    outfit from Johnny Cash, and
                                                    other memorabilia of world-fa-
                                                    mous rock and pop legends are
                                                    all displayed at the newly
                                                    opened Hard Rock Cafe at the
                                                    gangplanks.

                                                    Hamburg on the Social Web
                                                    Never again will you miss out on what is
                                                    happening on the Alster and Elbe: now at
                                                    facebook.com/meinhamburg,
                                                    twitter.com/mein_hamburg and
                Matthias Storm invites diners to    youtube.com/HamburgTourismus
                enjoy “Sündiges Fleisch” (Sinful
                Flesh) and “Roulade Lilo Wanders”
           46   at his Freudenhaus.                                                    47
RESTAURANTS & CAFÉS

Restaurants
Haco                                          Cuneo
Björn Juhnke’s new shop offers the            The city’s oldest Italian restaurant.
very finest seasonally oriented Nordic        In this more than 100-year-old family
cuisine. Among other things, this means       business there is house-made ravioli,
splendid fish dishes – accom­panied by        and self-imported wine with the family’s
an impressive wine menu with attrac-          own label.
tively fair prices.                           Davidstr. 11, tel. 040.31 25 80,
Clemens-Schultz-Str, 18,                     cuneo1905.de
tel. 040.74 20 39 39,                                                                    Relaxed: The Schauermannspark in front of the Amphore is the city’s best beach-
restaurant-haco.com                           Dips ‘n Stix                               club alternative.
                                              International finger-food specialities
Salt & Silver
In 2013, Jo and Cozy gave up their jobs
                                              delight gourmets on the first floor of
                                              the Schmidt Theater.                                                                     Fast Food
and travelled through South America as
“Salt&Silver”. This journey resulted in
two cookery books and now finally
                                              Spielbudenplatz 24–25,
                                              tel. 040.31 77 88 84, tivoli.de                                                          & Snacks
their “Zentrale” (“Headquarters”) – with      East Restaurant                              Philipps Restaurant                         Kiez Curry
a punchbowl, grill and a view of the          The menu does also feature dishes like       Philipp cooks with love: His restaurant     “The cool currywurst from the Kiez”
Elbe. And we’re all very happy about          Wiener Schnitzel. But it’s the sushi and     concentrates on an understated style,       provides a good base for your stomach
this! The range of tacos here, for exam-      sashimi variations that come especially      uncomplicated food (sophisticated, but      – whether you want to work or to enjoy
ple, with avocado, red onions and fish,       highly recommended.                          not snooty), cool music from The Cure,      a night out.
is bigger and more delicious than any-        Simon-von-Utrecht-Str. 31,                  and distinctly friendly service. The        Querstr. 2, kiezcurry.de
where else. Attention: In winter, they        tel. 040.30 99 33, east-hamburg.de           basement restaurant named after him
travel to far-off lands for further inspi-                                                 in the Karoviertel has long since           Kombüse
ration, so they can surprise diners with      Kuchnia                                      become firmly established and is very       Instead of seafood, here there are
new dishes every spring. The “Zentrale”       East European cuisine is here served in      popular. So be sure to book early!          Mexican delicacies at moderate prices:
stays open even when the bosses are           a blend of restaurant and bar. The           Turnerstr. 9, tel. 040.63 73 51 08,        Burritos, nachos, chilli con, and sin
not there, however.                           menu includes pierogi, pelmeni, blini,       philipps-restaurant.de                      carne.
Hafenstr. 140, St. Pauli, Wed–Sat from       Staropramen, pomegranate juice from                                                      Bernhard-Nocht-Str. 51
6 pm, Sun 11 am–3 pm breakfast / from         Kazakhstan, and birch sap from Russia.       hæbel
6 pm evening meal, tel. 040.18 11 06 07,      Talstr. 87, Mon–Fri from 5 pm,              Fabio Haebel has been serving in the        Pauli Pizza
saltandsilver.net                             Sat–Sun from 4 pm, tel. 040.822 61 25,       Tarterie St. Pauli since 2011, and has      Dough and sauce are made to a secret
                                              kuchnia-wodkabar.de                          re-invented himself time after time.        house recipe, the topping can be indi-
Man Wah                                                                                    Because this is part of the concept:        vidually ordered. Whether it be rucola,
Most guests at this Kiez Chinese res-                                                      Haebel does what he feels like. And         egg and tuna or ham, mushrooms and
taurant choose lots of different dim                                                       delights his guests again and again.        capers, here everyone can have their
sums instead of a main course.                                                             Now the Tarterie is simply called           favourite pizza created from a long list
Spielbudenplatz 18, tel. 040.319 25 11                                                    “hæbel” and offers Nordic and French        of ingredients.
                                                                                           cuisine – regionally sourced and organic    Talstr. 22
                                                                                           wherever possible. Naturally!
                                                                                           Paul-Roosen-Str. 31,                       Imbiss Heiße Ecke
                                                                                           tel. 0151.72 423 046, haebel.hamburg        The cult snack-bar on Spielbudenplatz
                                                                                                                                       with class and charm – and perhaps
                                                                                                                                       the tastiest currywurst in the world!
                                                                                                                                       Spielbudenplatz 24–25,
                                                                                                                                       heisse-ecke.com

                                                             Delicious: The food
                                                             served at Kuchnia is
                                                             fresh, Eastern Euro­
                                                             pean, and also vegan
                                                             upon request.

                                         48                                                                                           49
RESTAURANTS & CAFÉS                                                                                                                                                                   from   € 10.50*

                                                                                             *Status: 08/2018 | Hamburg Tourismus GmbH | Wexstraße 7 | 20355 Hamburg
Casual: Hummel & Quiddje is run by a collective of six people from the district.

    Cafés
    & Bistros
    Café Geyer                                    Caffè Latte
    A great place to breakfast, drink coffee      At Caffè Latte you can escape from the

                                                                                                                                                                       GREAT HAMBURG
    or eat lunch, directly on the cosy Hein-      bustle of St.-Pauli for a moment and
    Köllisch-Platz. Thursday is schnitzel day!    observe it from outside. One highlight
    Hein-Köllisch-Platz 4,                       is the vegan breakfast, which has more
    tel. 040.49 20 40 51                          to offer than leaving out the cheese,
                                                  with fried tofu, great spreads, and
                                                                                                                                                                       EXPERIENCES & SAVINGS!
    Kaffee Stark                                  fresh fruit.
    Many vegetarian and vegan dishes and          Wohlwillstr. 49, tel. 040.43 27 27 78,
    the charming ambience make this café          Mon–Fri 8.30 am–6 pm, Sat 9 am–6 pm,
    a popular meeting place. The in-house         Sun 10 am–6 pm (open daily in the win-
    confectioners create sugar-sweet works        ter months only until 6 pm)
    of art like multi-layered chocolate tarts
    and carrot cakes.                             Zuckermonarchie                                                                                                                  Unlimited travel: buses,
    Wohlwillstr. 18, tel. 040.67 38 20 60,       This little kingdom in the middle of St.      Unlimited travel                                                                   trains & harbor ferries
    Mon–Sun from 10 am, kaffeestark.de            Pauli is a favourite with the district’s
                                                  sweet-toothed residents. Petit fours,
    Gretchens Villa                               tarts, and cakes are traditionally manu-
                                                                                                                                                                                   Up to 50% discount at more
    From the salad to the midday pasta to
    the chocolate cake, everything is simply
                                                  factured by hand and can be enjoyed in
                                                  the three individually decorated themed
                                                                                                                  Many discounts                                                   than 150 tourist attractions
    very well made.                               rooms.
    Marktstr. 142, tel. 040.76 97 24 34,         Taubenstr. 15, tel. 040.38 63 06 82,
    Mon–Sun 10 am–6 pm, gretchens-villa.de        Wed–Fri 11 am–7 pm, Sat–Sun 10 am–                                                                                               Tourist information, hotel,
                                                  6 pm, zuckermonarchie.de                                                                                              Buy now
    Hummel & Quiddje                                                                                                                                                               ticket machine or online
    The decor’s blend of old and new here
    creates a special feel-good ambience.
    The menu tempts guests with home-
    made cakes and bread and dripping.
    Bernstorffstr. 66, Mon–Sat from 6 pm,
    hummelundquiddje.de                                                                                  +49 (0)40-300 51 958
                                                                                                         hamburg-card.de

                                             50                                                                                                                                   51
Guided City
                                                                          Tours for
    HAMBURG                                                               Wheelchair
  WITHOUT BAR-                                                            Users
      RIERS
                                                                          Experience Hamburg without bar-
                                                                          riers and receive individual advice
                                                                          from these providers of guided

       EXPERIENCE THE “WICKED MILE”
                                                                          city tours.
                                                                                                                        Hotels
         WITHOUT BARRIERS TO ACCESS                                       Die Hamburg-Lotsen                            These hotels offer accessible
                                                                          All guided tours are individually             rooms, according to their own
                                                                          organised.                                    information:
                                                                          tel. 040.270 98 445, hamburg-lotse.de
                                                                                                                        Arcotel Onyx
                                                                          St. Pauli Tourist Office                      Reeperbahn 1, 20359 Hamburg,
                                                                          Whether you are travelling in a group         tel. 040.209 40 90
                                                                          or on your own, here there are tips
                                                                          from real St. Pauli experts.                  East Hotel
                                                                          tel. 040.98 23 44 83,                        Simon-von-Utrecht-Straße 31, 20359
                                                                          info@pauli-tourist.de, pauli-tourist.de       Hamburg, tel. 040.30 99 30,
                                                                                                                        east-hamburg.de
                                                                          Wheelchairs in the Red Light
                                                                          Your guide, also sat in a wheelchair, will    Egon Hotel Hamburg City
                                                                          show you the best places on this “geile       Königstraße 4, 22767 Hamburg,
                                                                          Meile” (sexy mile).                           tel. 040.311 82 10
                                                                          tel. 0176.82 57 04 40,
                                                                          tourguide-booking.com/tour/57/                Empire Riverside Hotel
                                                                          rollen-im-rotlicht/                           Bernhard-Nocht-Straße 97,
                                                                                                                        20359 Hamburg, tel. 040.31 11 90,
                                                                          Kurverwaltung St. Pauli                       empire-riverside.de
                                                                          These tours also explore the hidden
                                                                          corners of the Reeperbahn.                    Holiday Inn Express Hamburg
                                                                          tel. 040.31 79 07 47,                        St. Pauli Messe
                                                                          Kurverwaltung-st.pauli@web.de,                Simon-von-Utrecht-Straße 39,
                                                                          kurverwaltungstpauli.de                       20359 Hamburg, tel. 040.22 63 60 60,
                                                                                                                        ihg.com
                                                                          Historical Whore-Tour/Red Light Tour
                                                                          A special tour through the Reeperbahn.        Ibis Budget Hamburg St. Pauli Messe
                                                                          tel. 04163.86 80 30,                         Simon-von-Utrecht-Straße 64,
                                                                          info@gd-incentives.de, hurentour.de,          20359 Hamburg, tel. 040.31 76 56 20,
                                                                          rotlicht-tour.de                              ibis.com

                                                                          Caravan
                                                                          Those travelling with a caravan can
The Kiez - Hamburgers’ name           well as accessible tours around     stay on the asphalted camper site at
for the famous pleasure district      the Kiez and the gangplanks,        Hafenstraße 89, with a view of the                      Further information on
                                                                          harbour. Reservations are not possible,                  accessible options in
in St. Pauli - has long since shed    there are also individual guided
                                                                          information from Pütz Security AG
its grubby and disreputable red-      city tours, and accessible hotels   tel. 040.23 01 20
                                                                                                                               Hamburg and an opportunity
light image and now offers            and attractions.                                                                         to order the latest brochures
many accessible options. As                                                                                                          can be found at:
                                                                                                                                    barrierefrei-hh.de
                                 52                                                                                    53
PUBS
  & BARS
PUB CULTURE ON THE KIEZ

                                              In the quaint sailor’s pub Zum Anker there are countless curiosities to discover.

                                                Zum Anker                                20up
                                                If you want to have a beer in an         At a height of 90 metres, visi-
                                                authentic St. Pauli atmosphere,          tors to the Sky-Bar have a mag-
                                                you have to go to Zum Anker on           nificent view through the pano-
                                                Davidstraße. This joint is one of        ramic windows. By the way:
                                                the last sailor’s pubs in Ham-           They set great store by “sporty
                                                burg, and its guests are a               and elegant evening attire” here.
                                                cross-section of all layers of the       Bernhard-Nocht-Straße 97
                                                population: Here, typical local          (in the Empire Riverside Hotel),
                                                regulars sit at the bar next to          tel. 040.31 11 97 04 70,
                                                men in suits. Because the                empire-riverside.de
                                                unique barmaid Gunda makes
                                                everybody feel welcome.                  WunderBar
                                                Davidstraße 12,                         The WunderBar has been Ham-
                                                tel. 040.31 06 85                        burg’s gay living room for 25
                                                                                         years. Less than 100 square
                                                                                         metres in size, it is packed
                                                                                         every weekend with young,
                                                                                         good-looking men – and their
                                                                                         female best friends.
                                                                                         Talstraße 14,
                                                                                         tel. 040.317 44 44

                The elegant 20up offers
                romantic cocktail evenings
          54    above the roofs of Hamburg.                                            55
PUBS & BARS
Cocktail Bars
Christiansen’s                                 Tower Bar
In the cocktail paradise of star barkee­       Cocktails like the “Tower Bar Sundow­
per Uwe Christiansen, which has several        ner” are drunk here, at a height of 62
times been named Germany’s best bar,           metres and with a sensational
you will find the wildest creations, from      360-degree panoramic view. The dress
apple strudel to virgin mint colada.           code is rather more casual, and the cli-
Pinnasberg 60, christiansens.de               entele is very mixed.
                                               Seewartenstr. 9 (In the Hotel Hafen
Glanz & Gloria                                 Hamburg), hotel-hafen-hamburg.de
Whether it be Jamaica Fever or Sea
Breeze – there are plenty of fruity
house specialities in this velvety-red bar.    Pubs, Bars &                               You will not often see the Barbarabar as empty as this …
Spielbudenplatz 28, tivoli.de

The Chug Club
                                               Clubs
The Chug Club is passionate about              Barbarabar                                   Kogge                                     Zum Silbersack
tequila, which is served here not as           A cosy bar with orange wallpaper,            This long-established harbour hotel       Hans Albers and Udo Jürgens warble
shots but in high-quality cocktails. The       plastic chandeliers, kitschy standard        was previously used as accommodation      from the jukebox and beer is from the
house speciality are Chugs, miniature          lamps, and disco balls. On Tuesday           by seamen. It is now a meeting place      bottle. This cult pub has existed for
cocktails.                                     from 8 pm there are audio play eve-          for musicians, bands and open-minded      more than 60 years.
Taubenstraße 13, Sun–Thur 6 pm–               nings and on Wednesday there is a            travellers.                               Silbersackstr. 9
2 am, Fri–Sat 7 pm–4 am, thechugclub.bar       table football tournament. At the            Bernhard-Nocht-Str. 59,
                                               weekend the club is filled with dancing      kogge-hamburg.com                         Zur Ritze
Clockers-Bar                                   revellers from the Kiez.                                                               Every visitor to St. Pauli should pass
Behind a red iron door hides a room            Hamburger Berg 11, barbarabar.de            Strandpauli                               through this pub’s swing-doors, which
with moss-covered walls, a colourfully                                                      A tropical island in the middle of the    have a pair of spread legs painted on
lit tree, a wooden cabin with a DJ desk        Frau Hedis Tanzkaffee                        city: With the first rays of sun, the     them. In the cellar under the pub, there
– and a massive bar. Fine drinks are           Real Hamburgers celebrate on the Elbe,       Beachclub invites you to come and laze    is a no less legendary training room:
mixed here: The drinks menu comprises          and the charming “MS Hedi” is a great        around in deckchairs. Just bury your      pros like Henry Maske and Darius
36 cocktails, and the spirits assortment       place to sway along to the music. While      feet in the sand, enjoy cocktails, and    Michaelczewski have boxed here.
includes 20 varieties of gin alone.            the launch sails through the harbour at      watch the ships on the Elbe!              Reeperbahn 140, zurritze.com
Paul-Roosen-Str. 27, clockers.hamburg         night, bands, DJs, and theme parties         Hafenstr. 89, strandpauli.de
                                               provide special entertainment.                                                         The Rabbithole
Sankt Pauli Bar
After a visit to St. Pauli Theater, the
                                               Landungsbrücke 10, frauhedi.de
                                                                                            Traditional                               An oasis of calm between the madness
                                                                                                                                      of the Kiez and the stag nights: This is
house bar is the perfect place to bring
an entertaining evening to a civilised
end: In addition to cocktails, cham-
                                               3 Freunde Cocktailbar
                                               A cocktail menu for everyone: Friends
                                               of the old school, for example, reach
                                                                                            Pubs                                      a place where good people meet in a
                                                                                                                                      place with real flair. Many of the liquid
                                                                                                                                      ingredients are made on the premises
pagne and whiskey, small dishes for            for the Last Word with marasca cher-         Gretel & Alfons                           and mixed with the finest spirits to
late-night appetites are also served.          ries, herbs, gin and lime. Those who         In the 60s, even Paul McCartney had a     create excellent cocktails.
Spielbudenplatz 29,sanktpaulibar.de           want something modern drink a Dillinger      tab here at this cosy pub.                Kleine Freiheit 42,
                                               Cocktail, with Dild Aquavit, crème de        Große Freiheit 29, gretelundalfons.de    facebook.de/therabbithole.de
                                               cacao and cream.
                                               Clemens-Schultz-Str. 66,
                                               3freunde-hamburg.de

                                                                                                                                       One of the cosiest and
                                                                                                                                       most beautiful havens in
                                          56                                                                                         57St. Pauli on the banks of
                                                                                                                                       the Elbe: Strandpauli.
NIGHT TOUR

  CLUBS &
LIVE STAGES
  MUSICAL ST. PAULI
                      Angie’s presents high-class live music in a casual atmosphere.

                        Angie’s                                        Molotow
                        Angie’s Nightclub is resplendent in            This club has a cult following. The Molo-
                        classy blue and gold, and has been an          tow is regarded as one of the best
                        established institution on the Kiez for        music clubs in Germany and can point to
                        20 years. Here, the guest can try their        illustrious names in its hall of fame, such
                        way through more than 100 different            as the White Stripes and Die Toten
                        cocktail creations, from creamy and            Hosen. Despite this, the existence of the
                        sweet to classically bitter, as their gaze     Molotow was hanging in the balance for
                        wanders over the Reeperbahn through            a while: Falling turnovers and the then
                        the large window façade. Meanwhile,            pending demolition of the Esso buildings
                        the club’s own band delivers the right         put its survival at risk. The Molotow is
                        groove with a mixture of funk, soul,           now located in the Nobistor and remains
                        pop and rock.                                  one of the top places to go for lovers of
                        Spielbudenplatz 27, tivoli.de                 live music, parties and readings.
                                                                       Nobistor 14, daily 8 pm–6 am,
                        Klubhaus St. Pauli                             molotowclub.com
                        The mighty Klubhaus St. Pauli on Spiel-
                        budenplatz, with its impressive “media         Sommersalon
                        facade”, houses restaurants, office            This retro, feel-good location is one of
                        spaces, laser tag and several happening        the most important venues for music-
                        music clubs. This includes the popular         lovng visitors to St. Pauli. With series
                        locations Kukuun, Häkken, Bahnhof              of events such as the “Lausch-Lounge”
                        Pauli, and Schmidtchens.                       and the “Wohnzimmergeschichten”,
                        Spielbudenplatz 21/22,                        this music club has developed into an
                        klubhaus-stpauli.de                            indispensable locale for the young Kiez
                                                                       audience.
                        Alte Liebe                                     Spielbudenplatz 21 (Klubhaus St. Pauli),
                        The Alte Liebe is an homage to the             sommersalon.de
                        beauty of the night – to joy, flirting, and
                        revelry! Dance across the parquet under
                        stucco angels and chandeliers, like Fred
                        Astaire and Ginger Rogers once did.
                        Here you can enjoy wild parties to hot
                        music from Hamburg’s best DJs.
                        Spielbudenplatz 22 (Klubhaus St. Pauli),
                        alteliebe-hamburg.de

         58                                                           59
CLUBS & LIVE VENUES
Musical
St. Pauli

Baalsaal                                     Grüner Jäger                                 Moondoo                                      Prinzenbar
This cellar club is a meeting place for      A variety of concerts and parties are        The Moondoo regards itself as an             The Prinzenbar is already worth a visit
lovers of electronic music. Every week,      held almost every day in the cosy little     “elegant nightclub with a rebellious         because of its art nouveau ambience
starting on Thursday, you can look for-      “witch’s cottage”. It hosts the virtually    soul”. You can see this on Friday night      with stucco ornamentation, chandeliers,
ward to a carefully selected programme       legendary trash-pop party “Entdeck the       at Salon de Nuit, when brand-new hits        and illuminated dance-floor. As well as
of dance music.                              Dreck” (discover the dirt), a celebration    meet rediscovered rarities, with Inde-       Electro and Indie parties, the bar pre-
Reeperbahn 25,                              of the worst musical crimes of the last      pendent Funk, Soul and House.                sents its audience with numerous con-
facebook.com/baalsaalclub                    few decades.                                 Reeperbahn 136, moondoo.de                  certs – for example, James Blunt has
                                             Neuer Pferdemarkt 36,                                                                    already appeared here.
Docks                                        gruener-jaeger-stpauli.de                    Twentyfive                                   Kastanienallee 20, docks-prinzenbar.de
This firmly established venue in the                                                      The former Neidklub is shining in new
heart of Spielbudenplatz attracts            Gruenspan                                    splendour: Industrial design and a
guests with top-class concerts from          This venue is a must for fans of rock,       smart terrace with a view of Spiel-
national and international bands.            metal and alternative music – between        budenplatz. Anyone who likes to hear
Spielbudenplatz 19,                         red walls and high stucco pillars, con-      electronic music will find the right bass
docks-prinzenbar.de                          certs and parties take place regularly in    and a varied programme from House to
                                             the Gruenspan, and they all revolve          Hip-Hop.
Golden Pudel Club                            around one thing: “It’s only Rock ’n’ Roll   Reeperbahn 25, Fri–Sat 11 pm–6 am
Founded by the clique around the artist      ... but I like it.”
Rocko Schamoni, euphoric parties are         Große Freiheit 58, gruenspan.de             Mojo Club
still celebrated here today.                                                              Through two hatches in the floor, you
St. Pauli Fischmarkt 27, daily from         Indra                                        can go under the Dancing Towers and
10 pm, apart from Tuesday from 8 pm,         It was their first appearance in Ham-        into the middle of the legendary Mojo        Dancing under the chandelier – in
pudel.com                                    burg: The Beatles stood on the stage         Club. The 16-metre-deep vault of the         the Prinzenbar.
                                             here on 18 August 1960. Since then           music club offers a spectacular location
Große Freiheit 36                            the Indra has been irrevocably linked        for Dancefloor Jazz with Electro, Funk
Well-known bands regularly rock the          with the career of the Fab Four and still    and Soul sounds.                             Uebel & Gefährlich
stage here. And the disco audience           provides good entertainment, with live                                                    This club in the Feldstraßenbunker not
                                                                                          Reeperbahn 1, mojo.de
floods into the cult club at the weekend.    music, blues, rock’n’roll, funk and soul.                                                 only offers a fantastic view, but also
                                                                                          Kukuun                                       concerts, readings, and highly danceable
Große Freiheit 36, grossefreiheit36.de      Große Freiheit 64, indraclub64.de
                                                                                          Unusual name? “Kukuun” stands for            Indie and Electro music.
                                                                                          Kunst, Kultur, and Unterhaltung – or         Feldstraße 66, uebelundgefaehrlich.com
                                                                                          art, culture and entertainment – which
                                                                                          is certainly a very accurate description     ZWICK St. Pauli
                                                                                          of what this venue delivers. On top of       This popular rock pub, decorated with
                                                                                          the varied programme, guests can             80 bass guitars, not only offers Ameri-
                                                                                          enjoy the view of the Reeperbahn from        can cooking and sport-TV, but also live
                                                                                          the first storey of the Klubhaus.            evening concerts by rock musicians,
                                                                                                                                       within a small circle.
                                                                                          Spielbudenplatz 9–10 pm,
                                                                                          Sun–Thur 7 pm–1 am, Fri–Sat 7 pm–            Millerntorplatz 1, zwick4u.com
                                                                                          3 am, kukuun.com

                                        60                                                                                            61
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