Future Forecast 2019 - The Future Laboratory
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FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 INTRODUCTION : 2 Introduction The past year has been politically, economically and environmentally tumultuous. From the rise of nationalism globally, to the uncertainty that still hangs over the UK’s departure from the EU, consumers are more trepidatious than ever about their future–and that of the world. In the Future Forecast 2019 we examine how this uncertainty is manifesting and fueling new behavioural patterns. Consumers are increasingly adopting a long-term mindset by embracing local purchasing habits, prioritising digital products that mitigate traditional overconsumption and investing their wealth in causes for the greater good. And as they seek to take greater control over their future, we will see a seismic shift across sectors like fashion, luxury and travel as consumers redefine what it means to be a brand operating in this space. In order to interrogate these changes, we have delved even deeper to showcase the 50 essential trends across Food, Drink, Beauty, Health & Wellness, Luxury, Fashion, Retail, Fintech, Travel and Youth that will shape the coming year. In addition, we also bring you exclusive innovator interviews and thought-leadership pieces from key industry disruptors who will unpack the future of their sector. Through trends like Cultivating Flavour, Blockchain Biology and Inconspicious Goods we will help you cut through the noise and get a quick and clear understanding of how the key consumer shifts will affect your brand. If you require more information about any of the trends included in the Future Forecast, or want to know how your business can harness them most effectively, say hello@thefuturelaboratory.com or visit our trends intelligence platform lsnglobal.com to explore the sectors in more detail. Together we’ll make a better future happen. WTHN, NEW YORK
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 CONTENTS : 3 Fashion Luxury Pages 12–15 Pages 28–31 Trends: Digital gratification, optimised Trends: Inconspicuous goods, luxury wardrobes, integrating sustainable upcycling, next-generation auction fashion, design on demand and houses, how casinos are rejecting incorporating the blockchain. Plus a symbols of wealth and the price of look at the world’s first digital fashion silent homes. Plus a spotlight on house, The Fabricant. Entrupy’s new product Fingerprinting, WTHN, NEW YORK PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARON TILLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY FLORA MACLEAN which allows manufacturers and Viewpoint: Christina Agapakis. The retailers to verify an item’s authenticity Beauty creative director of Ginkgo Bioworks explains how bacteria can be Food at any point during its lifecycle. Travel and Pages 4–7 genetically engineered to create more sustainable products that hold an Pages 20–23 Opinion: Marty Hurwitz. MVI Marketing’s CEO on why more brands need to value Hospitality Trends: Shaving rebranded, aesthetic as well as a functional value. Trends: African aromas, the carb revival, Pages 36–39 the rise of immigrant luxurians. transgender cosmetics, modern cultivating food for taste, climate-positive medical spas, skincare without foods and a new efficient urban farming Trends: Connecting clubs, less needles and prejuvenation haircare. movement. Plus why pili nut yoghurts wasteful hospitality, LGBT+ tourism, Plus why chlorella and caffeine and jellyfish crisps will be on the tip of repurposed resorts and purpose- hydration will be in high demand. everyone’s tongue next year. driven travel. Plus Clear shows how biometrics can be used to reduce Opinion: Michael Sheridan, Viewpoint: Leo Campbell. The waiting times at airports, concert founder of retail design agency co-founder of the Modern Baker on venues and sports stadiums Sheridan&Co, on why brands how consumer expectations around need to watch their language. carbohydrates are changing and the Opinion: Bani Amor. The travel writer importance of introducing fibre back on why consumers need to question IN PURSUIT OF TACTILITY BY PMS STUDIO, EINDHOVEN into the conversation. their reasons for exploring the world. ENJOY CASINO BY FOAK STUDIO Fintech Retail Pages 16–19 Pages 32–35 Trends: Adaptive banking, debt- protectors, biometric payments, Trends: Inspirational spaces, future- secure cryptocurrencies and reducing proof malls, data ID stores, automated gender disparity in finance. Plus how delivery developments and frictionless THE LOBBY BAR COCKTAILS, THE LINE HOTEL, LOS ANGELES Plastic Bank is turning ocean detritus shopping. Plus why Choice Market into a new form of currency. is shaping the future of traditional Drink convenience stores. PHOTOGRAPHY BY FLORA MACLEAN TONAL, US Viewpoint: Anne Boden. The founder Opinion: Gilles Boisselet. Pages 8–11 of Starling Bank explains why traditional Trends: Local drinks that break the banks need to scale down and embrace Health and UNIT9’s chief science officer on how gaming is creating a new Youth Wellness open APIs to remain relevant. rules, a revolution in water, low-proof breed of bold retail spaces that Pages 40–43 drinkers, alternative intoxication and transcend language barriers. Pages 24–27 Trends: Acne positivity, the backlash elevated energy drinks. Plus the inside against bullying, Insta-dating, feminist story on essential 2019 ingredients, Trends: Biorhythmic brands, fighters in South Korea and the rise Theacrine power-ups and jun tea. pregnancy wellbeing, blockchain in spirituality. Plus a spotlight on healthcare, at-home fitness technology, rising Lagos-born film-maker and Viewpoint: Jim Meehan. The adaptive clothing for athletes. Plus how photojournalist Dafe Oboro. bartender and author discusses the BioSay is using smartphone sensors to importance of moderation and what Viewpoint: Arnold Ma. The CEO of measure physical and emotional states. legalised marijuana will mean for marketing agency Qumin discusses alcohol brands in the coming year. Viewpoint: Lea van Bidder. The CEO how future Chinese youth subcultures WEALTHSIMPLE of AVA Science on creating a more will revolve around rebellion. open discussion around fertility and how GLOSSIER attitudes to pregnancy are evolving.
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 BEAUTY : 4 Beauty Two competing beauty narratives will thrive in 2019, one about self-care and the other about a search for perfection CLEAN MARKET, NEW YORK
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 BEAUTY : 5 The zeitgeist in beauty continues to focus on body positivity and celebrating diversity. 2. Transgender Cosmetics Trending In more traditional categories like shaving there is a shift away from unrealistic ideas of The conversation about the importance of make-up as a powerful tool for self- Ingredients: expression has until now largely focused perfection and an acceptance that au naturel on cis women, but brands are now CAFFEINE HYDRATION is desirable. A large part of this conversation turning their attention to creating the While hyaluronic acid has long been cosmetics and tutorials that transgender on the lips of any beauty consumer is an acceptance that as identity continues women need to feel empowered. in search of skin salvation, a rising along a fluid trajectory, beauty brands need to One of the biggest difficulties faced star when it comes to hydration move beyond binaries and consider the needs by transgender women is disguising is caffeine. A recent study by the beard hair, both before and during Estée Lauder Companies’ research of all consumers. On the other hand, as beauty and development team found that, hormone replacement therapy (HRT). technologies gain in popularity, consumers are Unisex make-up brand Jecca Makeup, when applied topically, caffeine boosts skin hydration significantly. becoming increasingly desensitised to cosmetic part of L’Oréal’s beauty accelerator FLAMINGO BY HARRY’S at Station F in Paris, has specifically surgery and are seeking ways to achieve the formulated its Correct & Conceal 1. same ideals of perfection offline that they Shaving palette with pink hues to counteract see online. And with technology increasingly Rebranded the blue tones caused by beard shadow. ‘Make-up plays a huge role through shaping the skincare industry, haircare is a male-to-female transition,’ says Shaving has reached a juncture. not far behind as consumers turn to tools Figures from Euromonitor show that founder Jessica Blackler. ‘It can help you feminise your face and present that not only style hair but also replenish it. the male grooming market is expected to be worth more than £47bn ($60bn, yourself the way you feel inside.’ €52.8bn) by 2020, while the percentage Building on the theme of empowerment of young women aged between 18 and 24 through cosmetics, Fluide is a brand shaving their underarm hair fell from for ‘all gender expressions and skin 84% in 2014 to 77% in 2016, according tones’. Although the brand is not to Mintel. As a result, a new wave of specifically aimed at transgender brands are taking a more nuanced women, it perpetuates the idea that and inclusive approach to body hair. make-up can be a powerful tool US male grooming brand Dollar of self-expression for everyone. £47bn Shave Club explores the honest ways in which men go about shaving in its advert, Get Ready. The ad, which celebrates men as they go about their individual and conventionally LEE O’CONNOR FOR FLUIDE, US embarrassing grooming habits the projected value such as shaving their pubic hair or of the male grooming taking candlelit baths, was inspired market by 2020 by research undertaken by the ‘Make-up plays a huge role brand in order to discover what their customers really do in the bathroom. through a male-to-female Source: Euromonitor In the female shaving category, brands transition. It can help you such as Billie are accepting that traditional hair removal is becoming feminise your face and present a lower priority for women. Its Project Body Hair brings together imagery and yourself the way you feel inside’ videos of women opting to shave, style or otherwise maintain their body hair. Jessica Blackler, founder, Jecca Makeup FLUIDE, US
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 BEAUTY : 6 ‘People are more concerned about chemicals and toxins. With hair in Trending particular, with all the colouring, 4. Mimicry Skincare With non-invasive procedures becoming Ingredients: CHLORELLA heat styling, over-processing going on, damage is more prevalent than ever’ routine, a new genre of skincare This algae-based ingredient is Melisse Shaban, founder and CEO of haircare brand Virtue Labs products is designed to replicate causing a stir in both the skincare dermatological and surgical results and haircare sectors. Richer in for those who want the smooth effect chlorophyll than its sister superfood, without the syringe. Canadian beauty spirulina, and full of nourishing guru Nannette de Gaspé is working on vitamins and minerals, chlorella a new line that will have the same effect assists with the formulation of new blood vessels – helping to diminish as mesotherapy – an injection cocktail skin redness – as well as stimulating of vitamins – without the needles. The WTHN, NEW YORK the production of keratin in hair. masks deliver results with ‘no needles, no pain, no bruising, no downtime and a 3. real delivery of actives’, says De Gaspé. 5. Modern South Korean beauty brand Starskin’s Prejuvenation Med Spas Micro-filler Mask Pack, which mimics Haircare Beauty treatments are no longer the effect of micro-needling, and confined to the vanity table or the spa. Spanish brand Natura Bissé’s recently Just as the idea of prejuvenation – a Increasingly, aesthetic treatments launched Inhibit High Definition portmanteau of rejuvenation and are seen as part of a person’s regular treatment also take a no-needles prevention – has become pertinent in personal care regime, and medical approach to beauty. The latter is a the skincare sector, so this idea, through spas are becoming popular system that combines a daily intensive advances in technology, is now being 17% sites for consumers seeking serum with weekly patches to fill translated into haircare. Typically, to upgrade their look. wrinkles and smooth expression lines. heated styling tools are associated ‘These products offer an alternative for with being damaging and bad for hair These hybrid medicalised people who want noticeable results but health. However, the next generation beauty spaces are touting in a more natural way,’ says Patricia of styling tools will improve hair their medical credentials, Fisas, senior vice-president of research quality and health by reprogramming of patients at US medical but without the clinical and innovation at Natural Bissé. the entire hair structure. coldness of a doctor’s surgery. spas in 2017 were Millennials The Clean Market is a Japanese technology company New York wellness spa that Lumielina launched Repronizer, a Source: The American combines the latest trends hairdryer that uses programming Med Spa Association to come from the world of technology at a quantum level wellness such as cryotherapy to increase moisture and add and adaptogenic smoothies, shine. While the wind and heat of with medical-grade supplements conventional dryers damage, dry and such as B Activ by Xymogen and compromise strands, the Repronizer Metagenics PhytoMulti, which can reprogrammes and rebalances only be stocked by a medical doctor. processed, damaged hair – restoring hair quality strand by strand. Elsewhere in New York, New York Dermatology Group (NYDG), In addition, Dyson has launched a clinic staffed by board-certified the Airwrap, a styling tool that uses dermatologists, recently opened NANNETTE DE GASPÉ FACE AND BODY MASKS aviation aerodynamics to curl hair its Integral Health & Wellness at temperatures no higher than wing. Situated two floors below the 150°C. High-pressure air is driven clinic, the wing blends together through six slots in a cylindrical holistic and medical treatments in barrel before flowing in a circular a luxurious and refined setting. motion and creating a mini-vortex. CLEAN MARKET, NEW YORK
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 BEAUTY : 7 Opinion: Blokes and Beauty Michael Sheridan, founder of retail design agency Sheridan&Co, on why market is unlikely to overtake male consumers effectively. brands need to watch their language. the women’s market any time Its monochrome brand identity soon, the sector is clearly on is minimalistic, modern and an upwards trajectory. So how masculine – from concealer can fledgling brands stand out to cover-up, its proposition in what is expected to be an is aspirational, luxury and increasingly crowded space? positioned as a tool for Whereas women’s cosmetics optimising a man’s best physical Product positioning will be have focused heavily on the features. It’s empowering ‘#beautyboys crucial in ensuring that male tenets of beautification, modern THE Y CODE BY SHERIDAN&CO rather than effeminate, and it’s has given rise cosmetics become as inclusive men’s cosmetics have, to date, a message that is beginning to a counter- as possible, attracting custom of racial inclusivity in cosmetics centred on subtle enhancement, to resonate with men in the movement that from men who have never with her Fenty make-up range, correction and refinement, mainstream. challenges experimented with make-up gender diversity is entering the a barely there aesthetic that traditional notions before. There is also a distinct domain with a clear message: With that in mind, brand complemented rather than of masculinity’ opportunity for brands to masculine men wear make-up. language must also be masked the face. But perhaps contribute meaningfully to carefully balanced. Terms the time has come for men to the men’s make-up sector by MMUK Man has done this like ‘guyliner’ have a lot to reclaim the act of wearing make- breaking down social barriers. In exceptionally well by responding answer for in terms of putting up, albeit in a modern way – one the same way that music artist to an identified gap in cosmetics ordinary men off cosmetic that allows them to look the best while 15% of UK men under Rihanna shed light on the lack retail that has failed to serve experimentation. Instead, possible version of themselves, the age of 45 bought make-up functionality and transparency without fear of judgement or in 2016 (sources: Euromonitor, must sit at the forefront of brand stigmatisation. Mintel). Men’s cosmetics was communications, with language also a stand-out category at Indeed, industry forecasts are that is clear and unfussy in order this year’s Cosmoprof beauty promising. The male beauty to have impact. trade show, with a plethora and grooming market is set of start-ups representing an Brands entering the male to be worth more than £47bn emerging generation of male beauty field must show that ($60bn, €53bn) by 2020, beauty brands. Meanwhile, the they understand male consumer #beautyboys trend – buoyed unease and at the same time by social media – has given must confront societal concerns. rise to a counter-movement that The ability to offer a genuine, challenges engrained, traditional transparent and values-driven notions of masculinity. brand will be currency that cynical and hard-to-persuade Of course, this is just the male consumers will both start of the journey. While the understand and buy into. male grooming and cosmetics THE Y CODE BY SHERIDAN&CO THE Y CODE, A CONCEPT MEN’S BEAUTY BRAND BY SHERIDAN&CO
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 DRINK : 8 Drink In the coming year, beverages will be designed to foster the health of both consumer and planet THE LOBBY BAR COCKTAILS AT THE LINE HOTEL, LOS ANGELES
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 DRINK : 9 With climate change wreaking havoc on ingredient production, traditional ideas of provenance are evolving within both 7. Neo H20 When it comes to dining and socialising, ‘One of the challenges was how to deal with people who came in asking for prosecco. So we formulated a the wine and the spirit sectors. Indeed, water has always held a place at the draught cocktail to have a very when it comes to wine, traditions are table, but typically as an adjunct similar flavour profile to prosecco to soften the effect of wines, beers also being rewritten at the dinner table and spirits. But with consumers’ even though it’s made with gin’ growing awareness of the effect of with water being elevated and often now alcohol on their health and wellbeing, Paul Mathew, owner, taking precedence as the beverage of attitudes to drinking are altering. The Hide and The Arbitrager choice. Derived in part from a growing Made with grape skins and seeds, awareness of the effects that alcohol ARABESCHI DI LATTE, BROMPTON DESIGN DISTRICT Israeli start-up Wine Water has created O.Vine, a ‘near water’ that 6. and sugar have on health, consumers Displaced converts the by-products of winemaking are moderating their drinking habits into a non-alcoholic, low-calorie water- Drinks wine hybrid. Positioning O.Vine for to fit their healthier lifestyles. As evening drinking, the product has In our 2018 Future Forecast report alcohol loses favour among consumers, we looked at how narratives around won interest from health-conscious cannabis-infused drinks are offering an drinks were strongly linked to terroir Millennials and pregnant women, however its target audience are foodies alternative for those still seeking some but as environmental and geopolitical that enjoy drinking during meal times. factors increasingly come into play the form of intoxication and sugar-laden idea of provenance is becoming more Available still or sparkling, and in energy drinks are being replaced by nuanced. The focus is moving towards red or white varieties, it is described flavour rather than the typical rules as refreshing and satisfying to drink. more health-conscious alternatives. Californian brewer Lagunitas has and regulations that define spirits. Empirical Spirits, a distillery in toyed with the traditional ingredients Copenhagen, is questioning whether of alcohol to produce HopWater, an gin must include juniper or why spirits IPA-inspired sparkling water that must contain a certain percentage of mimics the taste of beer without the alcohol. One of its first launches, for alcohol, carb or calorie content. ‘Think instance, Easy Tiger, combined local of it like a club soda with soul,’ says Douglas fir and juniper with a base Lagunitas brewer Jeremy Marshall. ferment made with local barley and THE HIDE BAR, LONDON koji, a type of fungus used in Japanese cooking. It is simultaneously local and a spirit without classification. Cocktail bars and bartenders are also Trending increasingly going hyperlocal in their ingredients and spirits. In London, Paul Ingredients: Mathew is a consultant and owner of THEACRINE POWER-UPS The Hide and The Arbitrager, two bars that both serve drinks that are Derived from sources such as the distilled, brewed, fermented or produced kucha tea leaf and cupaçu fruit, within a 35km radius of London. Theacrine shares many similarities with caffeine both chemically and in effect, but without the associated WATER FUTURES BY A/D/O AND JANE WITHERS WITT GLASS OBJECTS BY EMILIEN JAURY. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHANNES BAUER highs and lows. The key ingredient in eSports supplement brand Reloaded’s range of drinks sachets, it is said to enhance gamers’ neuromuscular performance, decision-making and memory recall.
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 DRINK : 10 10. Elevated Energy Drinks 8. The energy drinks industry is coming Low-proof under repeat attack, with consumer Drinkers groups, retailers and governments raising concerns about the negative Bars and restaurants are catering to health impact of its products, especially the moments when on-off drinkers on children. Capitalising on this choose not to drink. Restaurants that growing concern, challengers are already offer juice flights – a type of entering the market with healthier non-alcoholic pairing menu – for non- alternatives with a major part of this drinking customers will experiment shift positioning ready-to-drink coffee- with unique concoctions that push based products as potential substitutes. the boundaries of the soft drink. Coldbrew coffee brand Sandows Cantonese restaurant Hakkasan’s LIMITED-EDITION COGNAC BOTTLE BY MARC NEWSON recently launched a carbonated, canned Orchard List is an esoteric menu of 29 version of its coffee drink designed 9. non-alcoholic drinks inspired by Asia, to compete with sugar-laden sodas including kombuchas, salted juices, Alternative and energy drinks. ‘We are looking to wood-aged waters and a new drinks Intoxication position the new [cans] alongside their category, mai shin, a rice and tea functional competitors, such as Coca- infusion inspired by the sake brewing In many areas around the globe, Cola and Red Bull, rather than iced process. Similarly, London’s Clove Club laws around marijuana consumption PUNCHY, UK coffee brands, with the aim for them to has also developed a dedicated menu for are easing. In October this year, become an everyday staple,’ explains non-drinkers, allowing its guests to pair Canada became the first G7 country Sandows’ co-founder Hugh Duffie. AURORA ELIXIRS, US their eight-course tasting menu with to legalise cannabis, while in the UK the option of two non-alcoholic flights 51% of Britons support the idea that New-entrant Flyte is described as which include teas, juices and infusions. marijuana should be available to a ‘clean energy drink’. Made with purchase in a shop, in the same manner green coffee beans and maca root, it Elsewhere, New York restaurant Atera has created Champine, its own as alcohol and tobacco (source: BMG Research). This greater acceptance of is free from added sugar and contains only 40 calories per serving. ‘We ‘There’s growing non-alcoholic sparkling beverage, in response to the lack of wines and weed alongside a declining interest in alcohol is driving a growing appetite are on a mission to create a positive energy drink range that will clean up consumer demand for champagnes for non-drinkers on restaurant menus. To try for cannabis-infused drinks that recreate the enjoyment of alcohol the category,’ say co-founders Luke Raskino and Jonathan Reeves. products that genuinely Champine, customers must book one of without the full psychotropic effects. deliver on functionality 51% Atera’s temperance pairings, which California Dreamin’s cannabis soda is a bottled carbonated fruit juice, Trending without compromising is promoted alongside its laced with 10mg THC to offer a ‘light, fun buzz’, while the brewing company Ingredients: on taste or health’ more expensive Lagunitas has created Hi Fi Hops, wine option. a THC-infused sparkling water. New JUN TEA Luke Raskino and Jonathan Reeves, co-founders, Flyte of Britons support the craft breweries like Nevada-based Often referred to as the champagne idea that marijuana Two Roots Brewing Co. and Ceria of kombucha, jun differs in two key Beverages are dedicating themselves should be available to to non-alcoholic canna-beer, which is ways. It is made using green tea rather than black tea, and is fed purchase in a shop invariably less calorific than traditional using honey rather than the more beer due to the lack of alcohol. traditional cane sugar solution. Source: BMG Research Jun tea’s more accessible flavour profile – it is milder and has fewer harsh vinegar notes than kombucha – means it has potential to appeal to an even broader audience.
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 DRINK : 11 Viewpoint: Jim Meehan The bartender and author discusses the importance of moderation and what legalised marijuana will a respectful relationship with I’d love to see more people drink mean for alcohol brands in the coming year. your guests. and everyone drink less, so I’m not worried that the younger kids If you look at some of the data are drinking less. I think it’s a coming out of the US, a lot sign that there’ll be a course for of the drinking is being done action that is a great event. I’m very enthusiastic about it. The Why do you think we should be drinking and bar culture because one thing that I’m most aware of talking about moderation? it’s important in life. ‘Drinking in is that as marijuana is legalised the US is done in many places in the US, many Society at large is in the process Should bars encourage their by a small young people who are thinking of demonising alcohol and drinks. customers to drink less? If so, percentage of the about drinking are looking at One of the things I found as I how can they do this? population. The the health benefits and cost looked at the history of drinking is MEEHAN’S BARTENDER MANUAL BY JIM MEEHAN Should bars be encouraging rest don’t drink of drinking versus marijuana that sometimes society loses sight of the importance of moderation, people who drink too much to much, if at all’ waitresses in skimpy outfits to drink less, or discourage binge serve shots, or get people to not just in drinks but in all things. If drinking in a single outing? drink on beaches in a beach we take a step back, we can see ‘People are Absolutely. But I think that going hut. You have to think, what are exercise is a good thing, but too by a small percentage of the choosing the things that you’re doing and much exercise isn’t. Essentially, out and executing this is very population, and the rest of the marijuana over what do they lead to? I don’t moderation is important in complicated and involves having population don’t drink very alcohol because they think brands and bars need much, if at all. I would love to think it’s a safer necessarily take a paternalistic see people who don’t drink at all way to get approach, but you have to to drink sometimes. I think that intoxicated’ understand that, in environments would be a more healthy and where people are impressionable sustainable way for us to grow and perhaps anxious, alcohol our industry, by spreading it out can go from being a stimulus consumption – and they’re and tilting the board in favour for conversation and rapport choosing marijuana. I would of moderation and not binge to something that can be quite argue that one of the reasons that drinking. damaging and toxic. people are choosing marijuana How can alcohol brands It’s often reported that over alcohol is that they think it’s work with bartenders to younger consumers are more a safer way to get intoxicated. better educate consumers on health-conscious and not as This shows that health is wrapped moderation? interested in alcohol as previous up in consumer decisions, so generations. How do you think the drinks industry needs to Often, beer and spirits brands this will affect bar menus in the look at it as good business. sponsor cheap drinks, perhaps in a college town, or dress up coming year? VERT CANNABIS BRANDING BY GRDN AND L’ÉLOI
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FASHION : 12 Fashion A greater understanding of the strain that fast fashion is putting on the environment is creating a new consumer that focuses on the digital rather than the material DEEP BY THE FABRICANT AND AMBER JAE SLOOTEN
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FASHION : 13 As the fashion industry grapples with existential questions about supply chains and over-consumption, digitisation is offering a new route for consumers still seeking to engage with clothing brands. Advances in 12. Optimised Wardrobes The movement to digitisation does technology will mean that brands can create not necessarily mean that people will ever more realistic-looking digital garments no longer own physical clothing, but that they will be more aware of the for avatars online, while machine learning clothes they already own. A cluster of will help to guide people on what to wear in start-ups are using AI and data to help consumers build smarter wardrobes. real life. Convenience has long triumphed Finery is one company that is trying in the realm of fashion, but next year it will to help users make more of their become clear that consumption does not clothing through its digitised wardrobe always have to be the enemy of sustainability. service. Through machine learning, it suggests outfit combinations, using New digital tools will also reform the way the shopping habits of other users that brands sell to consumers, ensuring that and a database of more than 1.5m ADDRESS THE FUTURE IN COLLABORATION WITH PERL garments are only produced when necessary blogger images of tagged outfits for reference. The platform also becomes 11. and that transactions are transparent. Digital smarter over time, taking into account what is already in users’ wardrobes Gratification to offer novel combinations. With tech-driven tools now available While other apps in this area require to designers, and consumers more a lot of time for users to catalogue attuned to enjoying digital ephemera, garments in their wardrobes, Save a new breed of fashion designers are Your Wardrobe’s management system creating garments for online enjoyment aims to make it almost subconscious. As only. Not only can these creatives soon as a customer buys an item online, use digital rendering to create on- the app will automatically upload it to demand pieces, but the digital realm the digital wardrobe. AI technology also offers a space where they can push scans emails and online retail accounts the boundaries of what is possible. to find users’ latest online purchases. London-based 3D designer Catherine Taylor creates hyper-realistic virtual CATTYT AND VETEMENTS AND NIKE clothing that, when animated, still has the movement and physical properties of real fabrics. Elsewhere, designer Sasha Gudkova’s Optic White project renders digital garments, ‘Data is often viewed as a cold exploring the way clothes fold, crumple IN PURSUIT OF TACTILITY BY PMS STUDIO, EINDHOVEN and change shape when worn. entity, but it can be used in a more The Norwegian retailer Carlings wants intelligent way when you read to use digital fashion to raise awareness of water consumption in the industry beyond it’ and to address the throwaway culture associated with fashion influencers. Hasna Kourda, founder, Save Your Wardrobe Its 19-piece Neo-Ex collection can be purchased for between £8.90 ($11.35, €10) and £26.70 ($34, €30) before being SAVE YOUR WARDROBE APP, UK digitally ‘fit’ onto a chosen photo by a group of digital 3D designers.
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FASHION : 14 Industry Disruptor: 13. Fast (Conscious) Fashion 15. Blockchain Fashion The fashion industry is infamous The Fabricant The Fabricant describes itself as ‘the Convenience has become a major driver world’s first digital fashion house’. in fashion retail, especially for time- for intellectual property (IP) cases. In June 2018, it presented its first pressed consumers unable – or unwilling But with originality and copyright digital collection at the Fashion – to hit the high street. A recent study in design still a hot topic, fashion Clash Festival in Maastricht, showing by the Royal Mail cited convenience labels are turning to blockchain seven designs on life-sized screens. (49%) as a key reason that UK shoppers as a solution that could safeguard ‘We’ve been displaying fashion in go online instead of in-store. But a the value chain of design. the same way for more than 100 series of new apps are making it easier French haute-couture designer Julien years. It’s always on a catwalk or in to integrate sustainable fashion choices Fournié explored this with DasCoin, a editorial images,’ says Amber Jae into consumers’ busy lifestyles. company that offers blockchain-based Slooten, The Fabricant’s co-founder ETHICAL TIME APP and creative director. ‘[We] want to Ethical Time, for example, is a free products and services to enterprises and set an example that fashion is more 14. app that was recently launched in start-ups. Using DasCoin’s technology, than that in the digital age. It’s no Spain to connect conscious consumers Demand- Fournié can store his designs using a longer necessary to sit [in the] front directly with the country’s 500 led Design legally recognised encrypted code that row to fully enjoy a fashion show.’ sustainable fashion labels through states when, where and who created In recent decades, technology has a specific document, with contracts, a single, convenient platform. enabled the fashion industry to non-disclosure agreements and other And with a resale market that is transform its production, logistics legally binding arrangements released tipped to grow by 15% a year in the and data analysis to make each only to authenticated partners. next four years, British department more efficient. Yet, with fashion store chain John Lewis is getting Brands are also looking to blockchain becoming faster, it is clear that involved by introducing its buy-back to improve the system of selling. MIXIMALISTE PLATFORM the linear take-make-waste model scheme. Once a customer has gathered OpenBazaar is an online selling has fuelled an unsustainable a minimum of £50 ($64, €56) worth platform founded on cryptocurrency cycle of over-consumption. of clothing, a courier will promptly payments. With no monthly access or Three-dimensional virtual prototyping listing fees, users can sell whatever collect the items and a John Lewis programmes such as CLO are giving they like, but are paid in one of more gift card matching the value of the fashion designers the tools to design than 50 supported cryptocurrencies. items will be emailed through. garments in digital form, without Unlike other resale platforms, users the need to cut out a physical pattern are in complete control of what is or sew a seam. The software uses in their store and their data. virtual avatars and equivalent digital fabrics to check the fit of a piece, experiment with print or pattern positioning, as well as change zips and trims at the click of mouse. One company using such software is Atacac, which defines itself as ‘We want to set an example. It’s no longer more of a fashion experiment than a brand. It creates its designs, such as jackets and trousers, as 3D digital renderings, which are then presented necessary to sit in the online for consumers to buy. Through this approach, Atacac’s collections front row to fully enjoy are designed and offered for sale a fashion show’ before they are physically created. POSH_SPACE PHYGITAL FASHION FACTORY Amber Jae Slooten, co-founder, The Fabricant SHAREWEAR BY ATACAC
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FASHION : 15 Viewpoint: Christina Agapakis The creative director of Ginkgo Bioworks explains how bacteria can be genetically engineered to it as a way to make products that create more sustainable products that hold are either difficult or at present ‘There unsustainable to produce. an aesthetic as well as a functional value. are a host of new aesthetic With respect to genetic opportunities engineering, do you think when you see the there is a change of mindset What are the fundamentals In design, and across other patterns that can among consumers? of biotech? industries, you hear a lot about be created with I think there is greater the circular economy, from waste bacteria’ awareness and eagerness to FABER FUTURES AND GINKGO BIOWORKS As a biologist, I’m obsessed to re-use. Biology does that engage with and learn about When it comes to using with bacteria and all the as a matter of course: things biology. When you think biotech in products for the awesome things that biology for pharmaceuticals or other grow and then they decay, about genetic engineering mass market, how scaleable can do. It can grow itself, and kinds of products. We also work and they do that in a beautiful and GMOs, that debate feels are these kinds of project? it can do all these complicated with yeasts and other bacteria, linked way. So can we tap into so intractable and so tied to and intricate things on its own, engineering their genes so that Right now they’re still small- that in our engineering and our agriculture, but there is more using just sunlight and a little we can use them to reproduce scale, but it’s growing and technology to make more circular, to genetic engineering and bit of sugar. You have plants different things. We understand changing. In terms of Natsai’s more sustainable technology? there’s more to get excited that grow and make all these the power of biology across work, it’s still quite a craft. What There are a whole host of new about. I think we’re starting beautiful shapes and colours, many industries, with fashion she was able to get at Ginkgo aesthetic opportunities when to see more engagement, and bacteria can also do these being just one of them. We see was certainly bigger than a Petri you see the patterns that can which is really exciting. incredible things on a minuscule dish, but nowhere near mass- be created with bacteria. scale. If you compare how market. Finding the challenges we manufacture things with What does your brand, in the scaling process and petrochemicals and how biology Ginkgo Bioworks, do? starting to outline what that can create [things] sustainably, [mass market] might start to We work with different you can see there are so many look like is a big part of what companies in the capacity of opportunities to develop a Natsai thinks about in her work creative consultants focused biological way of doing things. and in her own consultancy, on biology. Ginkgo builds a lot of the tools that someone Faber Futures. Bolt Threads, in could use to engineer cells to particular, has done a small run make different things. We’re of products. First it released working with the bacteria a necktie, then a hat and then that designer and founder of it collaborated with Stella Faber Futures, Natsai Chieza, McCartney. It is hinting that there uses to produce pigments; for will be more products on the example, to produce other kinds market soon, which indicates of molecules, whether that be the business is growing. FABER FUTURES AND GINKGO BIOWORKS FABER FUTURES AND GINKGO BIOWORKS PILOT RESIDENCY, 2017. PHOTOGRAPHY BY IMMATTERS
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FINTECH : 16 Fintech Financial insecurity and the threat of debt will drive consumer spending next year as consumers demand a financial offering that adjusts to meet their needs ALEKSANDRA SZYMANSKA FOR THE FUTURE LABORATORY
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FINTECH : 17 16. Adaptive Banking Some 40% of Millennials globally say Industry they would consider banking with online service providers like Google and Apple, while 36% would buy insurance from them and 46% would look to Disruptor: them for investment advice (source: Accenture). This is largely because Plastic Bank these technology giants have become Taking on the idea that the experts in tailoring their services to commodities market only benefits the individual needs of the customer. N26 BY JUAN GARCIA SEGURA the rich, Plastic Bank has worked with IBM to create a new commodity 17. Oval Money is a free-to-use app that combines expense tracking, saving and Debt- around what it calls ‘social plastic’. In a bid to reduce the amount of investing. It uses artificial intelligence (AI) to track the spending habits of each protectors ocean plastic, Plastic Bank turns the material into a form of currency, user, and offers saving and investment Living with economic uncertainty has encouraging communities to collect recommendations accordingly. The become the norm for many consumers in plastic that has washed ashore, slightly older Clarity Money, which the US and the UK. In the UK, a survey which is converted to digital credits was recently acquired by Goldman by think tank the Royal Society for the stored on the blockchain and then Sachs, similarly helps consumers Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures used to buy food or other goods. make better financial decisions by and Commerce (RSA) found that about This is significant because some of 40% using AI to analyse and improve an a third (34%) of UK workers consider these collectors do not qualify for SYSTEM AESTHETICS BY FIELD individual’s fiscal affairs. The app themselves to be just about managing, bank accounts, and there is a fear connects to users’ current and credit with 32% of respondents having less that their earnings will be stolen. card accounts, making suggestions to than £500 ($638, €562) in savings. As convenience culture refinance loans, cancel subscriptions Already tackling the issue of accruing continues to reign, and renegotiate bills where appropriate. of Millennials say they consumers will demand wealth, automatic savings app Digit is now diversifying its offer to help would consider banking financial services that consumers combat credit card debt. The percentage of US households cater to their individual with Google and Apple financial needs. For carrying over credit card debt from month to month has risen to 38% in 2018, after steadily falling Millennials, this need from 41% in 2010 (source: National Source: Accenture is largely focused on debt Foundation for Credit Counseling). avoidance and financial health. A new feature in the Digit app, Digit With consumers increasingly Pay, enables users to set up a personal credit card debt goal and a finance thinking of money as a digital bot then calculates how much can be entity and cryptocurrencies entering the withdrawn from the user’s current account without compromising his or mainstream, people are demonstrating much OVAL MONEY APP her budget. An additional Boost feature higher levels of trust both in the technologies lets customers prioritise their credit designed to keep their money safe and in the card debt above non-boosted goals. distributed ledger technology itself. In the year ahead, brands will finally take on board that women will collectively control £56.5 trillion ($72.1 trillion, €63.5 trillion) by 2020, tailoring their offering to the way that women both spend and save.
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FINTECH : 18 18. Biometric Money 20. Female Finance With more women in well-paid work Biometric technologies will finally have their year, heralding a future than ever before and inheritance of with more secure and streamlined wealth less likely to be subject to gender payments. ‘Everyone knows they have disparity, women’s spending power is to move away from knowledge-based increasing significantly. Women’s wealth authentication,’ says Mark Nelsen, is expected to grow 7% faster than Visa’s senior vice-president of risk men’s until 2020, according to Boston products and business intelligence. Consulting Group, and by 2020 they are ‘It’s not sustainable.’ In this vein, expected to collectively control £56.5 Mastercard has announced that from trillion ($72.1 trillion, €63.5 trillion). IOTA April 2019, its card users will be able But women often invest differently from 19. to make payments using fingerprint men. One of the most effective ways and facial recognition technology. Beyond of developing the asset management In the world of cryptocurrency, Bitcoin landscape is to ensure that more Benjamin Hubert’s design agency Layer women are working in the sector. Consumer interest in cryptocurrency Through education, industry outreach has collaborated with fintech start-up is robust, but with Bitcoin proving and career placement, non-profit- Trove to create a new digital wallet problematic, the latest technology is making Girls Who Invest hopes to that offers a safer, more reliable way to ushering in a new era of transactions inspire the next generation of female store and use digital currencies. The made on a distributed ledger. While portfolio managers and reach its wearable device is made up of four parts: Bitcoin promises transparency it goal of 30% of the world’s investable Coin, Keep, Safe and the Trove app. To also opens up users’ entire payment capital managed by women by 2030. access their data and funds on the Trove history to the public and therefore app, users must press their skin against UBS is also demonstrating its cannot equate to the privacy assured the contact zone of the wearable’s commitment to female finance by by cash. This is the premise on which Coin. This removable token contains a establishing an advisory board that Zcash has been built. Co-founded by built-in ECG sensor that will recognise has already made changes to the Alessandro Chiesa, the cryptocurrency the individual’s unique heartbeat way the bank communicates. Board uses zero-knowledge cryptography – a and use it as a mode of verification. members have reduced the amount of method of authentication in which no passwords are exchanged – to jargon used in the brand’s marketing promise secure transactions that are and changed the stock images used as anonymous ‘as handing someone to better portray modern women. a $20 bill from your wallet’. DOLLA DOLLA WORLD BY IRREGULAR LABS Launched two years ago, and with a market value of more than £783m ($1bn, €880m) at the time of writing, Zcash ensures that data such as Women’s wealth is expected buyer and seller location remains hidden at all times. As attested to by to grow 7% faster than brands like The White Company, a Bitcoin-based luxury crypto-concierge men’s until 2020 service that offers gold bars, super- TROVE WATCH BY LAYER DESIGN AGENCY AND TROVE yachts and limited-edition Rolexes in Source: Boston Consulting Group exchange for cryptocurrency, privacy is becoming a much sought-after luxury for high-net-worth individuals seeking to conceal their wealth. PHOTOGRAPHY BY WESTON WELLS
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FINTECH : 19 Opinion: Why big banks need to scale down to remain relevant it to somebody else? So they of competition, where banks are Anne Boden, the founder and CEO of can actually quote on it and open going to be competing for their Starling Bank, explains why traditional ‘Banks are banking allows you to take your part of the value chain. Some banks need to embrace open APIs. going to be data to a place that’s going to will survive and some will fail, but competing for get you the best deal. banks need to be much more their part of the customer-centric, transparent value chain. They How do you think the financial and trustworthy, supported by What is the Starling go somewhere to eat all of the need to become sector will evolve over the great technology. Marketplace? more customer- coming year? individual items I’ve bought centric’ At the moment, banks are trying Do you think the big high appear in my banking app. street banks will be able to Starling Marketplace is where It knows I’ve had a chicken to do everything. They have the you can browse all the various adapt and survive? sandwich and a Diet Coke. The whole value chain. They’ll do the apps that are connected to pension information in one place two apps are talking together, Big banks can copy all the apps Starling. All of these apps are and send it back to Starling you connect from Starling to but I think the biggest challenge connected using Application to show you what your total the Flux app and that allows for them is cost space. Payment Programming Interfaces (APIs). pensions are. consulting service Optima It’s a very practical way of information to flow both ways. Have you found there to Consultancy [this year] rated us expanding your offer in a way Through the Starling Marketplace be a particular consumer the top bank in the UK; Monzo that is easy for customers to we are also addressing savings demographic engaging with came second and Barclay’s came use. If, for example, I connect and investments with the Starling Marketplace? third. Barclay’s will spend a lot of my bank account to the digital PensionBee app. PensionBee money copying what everybody receipt platform Flux, when I can gather all of the user’s We were very surprised by the else does – they have huge number of people that signed N26 BY JUAN GARCIA SEGURA departments and budgets – but up for PensionBee the day what they can’t copy is others’ we launched – we had over app and provide all the products. cost effectiveness, so they need 1,000 in one day – so it shows I think that the value chain is to keep charging lots of fees in that Millennials are into more up for destruction. At Starling, order to cover those costs. than just avocado toast. Those we are focusing on current marketplace propositions are account banking, transactional very powerful. Imagine a situation banking and categorising the where you want a mortgage from transactions. Other products your bank. The bank has all your like mortgage insurance are ‘Big banks can data, it knows all about you and it provided by other brands. In the copy all the apps knows you’re a good credit risk. It world going forward, the next but the biggest can complete all your affordability disruption will be Barclay’s, for challenge for them statements and it may offer you a example, providing the back-end is cost space’ good rate. But what if you could technology and HSBC providing take all that information and pass the app. There will be that sort N26 BY JUAN GARCIA SEGURA
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FOOD : 20 Food As the issue of food security continues to proliferate it will inspire new agricultural and culinary approaches, inspired by ancient appetites and facilitated by new technologies FARM.ONE, NEW YORK
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FOOD : 21 With consumers now aware that low carb diets could shorten life expectancy, they are returning to this once vilified food group and 21. African Aromas With health of both people and planet increasingly at the forefront of incorporating it as part of a healthy diet. A consumers’ minds, ingredients like fonio growing interest in the health benefits of will gain importance next year. Fonio African ingredients will see entrepreneurs is an ancient grain grown in the Sahel region of West Africa and traditionally bring flavours from their homeland to eaten by farmers as a subsistence grain. Western consumers. In this vein, fruit and The gluten-free ingredient, ‘has three vegetables will become more flavoursome as times the amount of protein, iron and fibre of rice,’ according to Noah Levine, taste becomes synonymous with nutritional chief marketing officer at Yolélé Foods. value. As concerns over climate change Similarly high in protein is egusi, which Yemisi Awosan, founder of refrigerated continue to grow, consumers will next year food brand Egunsi believes will rival look for brands to instigate new production acai or quinoa for superfood status. processes that take a less energy intensive West African flavours are also approach and limit carbon emissions. infiltrating restaurant cuisine with renowned chef JJ Johnson this year relaunching Henry at Life Hotel with a new menu inspired by his travels across Africa and Asia, as well as FOOD INTERRUPTED BY PANERA BREAD his own Afro-Puerto Rican heritage. 22. ‘Regardless of where I’ve travelled in the world over the past five years, I’ve always walked away with a good Carb ‘Bread is not a problem. It is Revival culinary perspective of food through the West African lens,’ says Johnson. Carbohydrates have long been vilified incumbent upon us to make ‘Most people don’t really know what I’m talking about because they haven’t been for causing bloating and weight gain, but new medical studies are now the best bread that we can to West Africa. So, I’m explaining that at Henry.’ helping to reframe this food group possibly make, the healthiest as essential to a healthy lifestyle. Recent figures from The Lancet bread that we can make’ Public Health in fact found that low carbohydrate consumption is Blaine Hurst, CEO, Panera Bread linked to an increase in mortality. Brands like Panera Bread, which ‘Fonio is gluten- recently launched its original video series, Food Interrupted, are stepping in free, cooks in to educate consumers about the positives of carbs. A big part of this transition about five minutes, to carbs will focus on how products are made and the quality of their and it has three times ingredients, with health-conscious FONIO GRAIN BY YOLÉLÉ FOODS the amount of protein, bakers like Andina Panaderia, a Peruvian bakery in London’s Notting iron and fibre of rice’ Hill, focusing on the slow-ferment baking of bread. This slower, more conscious bread-making process, Noah Levine, chief marketing also known as slow-carb baking, is regarded as better for humans’ digestive officer, Yolélé Foods systems and creates breads with a lower Glycaemic Index (GI). KINFOLK EDITORIAL BY LUCY RUTH HATHAWAY. PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARON TILLEY
FUTURE FORECAST : 2019 FOOD : 22 25. 23. Alt Agri-Farms Cultivating The challenges of urban farms, Flavour Until now the food sector has not particularly vertical farms, is that they tend to be very energy intensive. Trending rewarded taste, instead preferring to breed fruit and vegetables for hardiness Rooftop farms, however, are beginning to showcase their potential to grow at Ingredients: and yield, but a shift in mindset is scale. They are less environmentally PILI NUT YOGHURTS occurring that makes the link between intensive than vertical farms because flavour and nutrition. Chef Dan Barber’s they rely mostly on natural light and Introduced by Lavva earlier this there is also the land availability. In year in its eponymous plant based 90% seed company Row 7 has been leading the way with its Koginut, a squash that New York, the vineyard Rooftop Reds ‘yogurt’, these nutritious nuts contain will showcase the potential of what can the highest magnesium content of has been stringently tested for both actually be produced in a city with the any nut, helping to regulate blood flavour and nutritional value. The squash bottling of its first vintage of city-grown pressure and lower cholesterol. was recently added to the menu at Also touted to improve cognition fast-casual salad chain Sweetgreen, grapes in 2019. ROW 7 SEED COMPANY, US and reduce inflammation they offer less water is used which has bought more than 100,000 Technology is also making urban a rich-buttery flavour and crucially 24. seeds and has been planting farming more efficient. Iron Ox is a deliver on the creamy texture that is to grow 30 times the them across the US, testing at scale to see how they perform in Climate California-based start-up that just essential in any yogurt-alternative. Positive Foods launched its first fully autonomous produce per acre of different climates and soils. With political insecurity and climate farm, which combines hydroponics with robotics to grow 30 times the produce a traditional farm On an even larger scale, Walmart has already developed the Sweet change making the fragility of our food per acre than a traditional farm, systems more apparent, brands will using 90% less water. It is a method Spark, a proprietary variety of demonstrate how their products ensure With global climates becoming cantaloupe melon designed to be food security through considerate of farming that offers food security nearly twice as sweet as a typical because of its lack of reliance on the more unpredictable, autonomous variety so that it delivers on flavour approaches to carbon. Ben & Jerry’s climate. For instance, where traditional farms like Iron Ox will offer even in the winter months. Now the has implemented a carbon credit pilot farms struggled to grow lettuce in the program in its London Scoop shop, UK heatwave, Iron Ox would have increased food security brand is now focusing on producing where the company spends a penny per a tomato that has a similar profile to maintained its usual quotas. scoop to offset the carbon created by the San Marzano variety, an heirloom their ice cream. Working with Poseidon premium product originally from Foundation the brand creates Naples, Italy. microtransactions on the blockchain, making it easier for consumers to participate in the carbon credit system Trending that is normally only accessible to large corporations. Ingredients: Others are using their packaging as part of an educational campaign JELLYFISH CRISPS on the importance of soil health and Long considered a delicacy in regenerative farming practices to Asia, where it is pickled for weeks produce our food. Organic consumer in salt and potassium, jellyfish is packaged goods (CPG) brand Annie’s now being converted into crisps to launched limited edition Mac & Cheese make it more palatable for Western boxes with the names of its farmers, POWER PLANT BY MARJAN VAN AUBEL tastes. A team of researchers who use carbon sequestration farming in Denmark are using ethanol to methods, making a connection to the create a crispy version that can be wheat used to create the macaroni. marketed as a healthier alternative to the traditional potato crisp. IRON OX, US
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