The outlook report 2011-2019
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the outlook report 2011-2019 mistra future fashion final program report
content
directors’ view............................................4
our partners .............................................6
this is mistra future fashion.........................8
design for circularity..................................10
textile fiber impact....................................12
production impact.....................................14
user........................................................ 16
alternative business models....................... 18
policy instruments.................................... 20
end of life................................................ 22
joint effort............................................... 24
value to others......................................... 26
publications............................................ 28
program organization............................... 33
testimonial chairman of the board.............. 34
the outlook report 2011-2019
mistra future fashion final program report
production and layout: Malin Viola Wennberg, Åsa Östlund
recommendation cards illustrations: Cina Rosén (cinarosenarts)
RISE Research Institute of Sweden AB
September 2019
Stockholm
Mistra Future Fashion report 2019:25
ISBN 978-91-89049-41-3
www.mistrafuturefashion.com
front cover image: mesh fabric, Unsplash
mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 3
- directors’ view - - directors’ view -
eight years of research
for
design
rity
In your hands right now is an overview the call text for our research program. The program’s role has gradually grown circula textile
fiber
and packaged recommendations Within the topics of our four research and impact has been made globally,
stemming from 8 years of research themes (design, supply chain, user as can be viewed in this outlook.
aiming at a systemic change in
fashion. The Mistra Future Fashion
and recycling) one can notice that the
research areas have both evolved and
When we now leave this ‘child’, we see
a ‘teenager’ exploring various new impact
Research Program has been delivering become more defined, and that the possibilities. And we do have high hopes
substantial amounts of research in the industry has taken initiatives to reform for this ‘teenager’, contributing strongly
written form of reports, conference and change. to the systemic change needed within
Dr. Åsa Östlund
contributions, academic publications, the whole fashion industry and the
Program Director
and doctoral theses, all available at our There are similarities with program fashion user.
website for reading. Additionally, the coordination of vast cross disciplinary prod
team of researchers have contributed research programs and raising a child, Although the Mistra Future Fashion uctio
in, and arranged, conferences, in the sense of watching something Research Program as such is closed,
impa n
meetings, workshops, exhibitions as
well as participation in expert groups
mature and grow. Imagine that we
started the research program path
its researchers still continue to develop
new knowledge and insights for
ct
and panels in various initiatives. when receiving the research grant future sustainable fashion. Maybe
Furthermore, we have developed new from MISTRA in 2011, as a rather young more importantly, we now also see
materials, tools and prototypes, and ‘child’. (Not to be confused with the an industry that has started to act
implemented new concepts together maturity or capability of the individual widely. Mistra Future Fashion research
with industry partners. researchers within the program, who has shown that 80% of the climate
on the other hand are very skilled and impact from the average Swede’s use
knowledgeable within their area of of clothes comes from the production
‘to make our research
expertise.) The “research program line. To us, this gives many prospects
even more available toddler” learned how to speak, listen for improvement such as; the Prof. Susann Sweet
Research Manager
we have packaged the and to respect each other over research direct increase of fossil-free energy
main conclusions into 8 disciplines. solutions in the production line, but
also improved design for circularity,
recommendations cards’
user
A few years later the program knew new business models for extended
how to create cross-disciplinary lifetime of garments (i.e. borrowing
research projects, and around 2015 and leasing), new accounting systems
In order to make all of our research when phase 2 of the program started, to increased traceability, and better
more visible and available we have similarities with a school child could policy instruments for supporting the
packaged the main conclusions be seen. The research program showed development of a second-hand market.
into recommendations on how one a new level of maturity, it could speak To incorporate actions related to above,
can contribute towards a systemic across disciplines, interact with various we believe that the systemic change
change in fashion. These are posted as stakeholders outside of the program, is en route and that we together can
recommendations cards from different and act more comfortably within the improve the sustainability profile of
joint
angles: design for circularity; textile broader context of society and the wider fashion lifestyle in the future.
fiber impact; production impact; user; world. Malin Viola Wennberg
effort
Communications Manager
alternative business models; policy
Mistra Future Fashion
instruments; end of life; and joint effort. Management Team
This is also the structure of this report. ‘the program’s role has
gradually grown and September 2019
So, how has the research matured and impact has been made
did we achieve our vision ’towards a
globally’
systemic change in fashion’? The scope
of Sustainable Fashion has grown
rapidly since 2010 when Mistra defined
4 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 5
- the consortium - - the consortium -
our partners a consortium with partners who share the program vision and
actively contribute to the program goals
research partners involved in theme researchers output industry partnerships:
BOKU Recycling Doris Ribitsch Chemical engineering Mistra Future Fashion was a consortium
Textile fibre recycling
based program built by partners
Chalmers University of Design Greg Peters LCA who shared the vision and actively
Technology Supply Anna Palme Chemistry contributed to achieving the program
Recycling Bahareh Zamani Fiber prototypes
goals.
Copenhagen Business Design Wencke Gwodz Consumer behaviour
School Supply Esben R G Pedersen Business models
Kirsti Reitan Andersen Local production
The program covered a broad range
User
Kristian S Nielsen of expertise and involved the most
Tina Joanes
IVL, Swedish Environmental User established experts and progressive
Maria Elander Policies
Research Institute Recycling Hanna Ljungkvist leaders within their respective research
Supply
fields. The research was organized
around four themes and involved
KTH, Royal Institute of Recycling Per-Olof Syrén Chemical engineering
Technology Textile fibre recycling researcher partners from Sweden,
Denmark, Austria and the United
Kingdom.
Supply Björn Källman Viscose pilot production
More Research
Recycling Hanna Rammsy
The industry partners involved were a
Supply David Watson Policies
PlanMiljø Business models mix of relevant stakeholders from across
User Anja Charlotte Gylling
Bjørn Bauer the value chain such as producers,
Recycling Christofer Lindgren Chemical engineering designers, retailers, waste managers
re:newcell Henrik Norlin Textile fibre recycling
and NGOs.
Design Hanna de la Motte Nonwoven biobased
RISE materials
Supply Gustav Sandin Albertsson The consortium had two levels of
User Helena Wedin Process analysis
Recycling Finn Englund Consumer perception industry partnership; Stakeholder
LCA
Åsa Östlund Cellulose partners, and Advisory Stakeholder
Hjalmar Granberg Chemistry
Tatjana Karpenja Fiber prototypes partners.
Siv Lindberg Recycling feasability
Sandra Roos Auto sorting
Björn Spak Fiber benchmark
Microplastics Stakeholder partners include in-depth
Zengwei Guo
Anna Rúna Kristinsdottir involvement in research tasks with
Christina Jönsson inputs such as expertise, information-
Anne-Charlotte Hanning
Desiré Rex sharing, resources, equipment and
materials.
Stockholm School of User Susanne Sweet Market
Economics Tina Sendlhofer Supply chain strategy Advisory Stakeholder partners actively
Business models follow research progress and provide
input on shaping the agenda.
Stockholm University User Claudia Rademaker Consumer behaviour
Business models
international network partnerships:
International Institute for User Naoko Tojo Policies
Industrial Environmental Supply Åke Thidell Recommendations
Economics at Lund University Recycling
The Swedish School of Design Ellinor Niit Design
Textiles Recycling Textile Technology
Kate Goldsworthy
Centre for Circular Design Design Rebecca Earley Strategic design
Kay Politowicz Prototypes
at University of the Arts Recycling
Clara Vuletich Design Guidelines
London
6 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 7
- this is mistra future fashion - - this is mistra future fashion -
research for sustainable why
The global fashion industry faces
multiple challenges when meeting
The issue is also about providing the
high volumes required. A challenge that
New sustainable fibers in old production
processes challenges the output as
fashion
modern requirements for sustainability, will get worse with the continued global sustainable products. The overarching
traceability and transparency. population growth. An annual volume issue that needs to be addressed is
Today’s fashion industry means of 100 million metric tons is estimated the imbalance in efforts needed for
severe environmental impacts from to be needed by 2020 (Eichinger, 2012), production vs usage. In general there is
production, hazardous substances in and very few nascent sustainable high environmental impact required
garments, mass consumption and alternatives can meet those demands. for a short user phase. Furthermore,
a research program with a vision of enabling systemic change leading to a sustainable generation of large volumes of textile However, new alternative fibers sources modern consumption habits generate
fashion industry and society waste. The majority of today’s fiber is not enough since 80% of a garments massive textile overload in the market
production is unsustainable, either climate impact stems from the and ultimately also problems with
as conventional cotton that requires total production phase, such as fiber waste. This is result of the linear
high amounts of pesticides and water production, yarn production, weaving, economy model, where ‘take, make,
in places where water is scarce, or dyeing, finishing, sewing, surface waste’ represents a broken design right
synthetic fibers such as polyester which treatments, etc, due to its energy, water from start.
is made of our planet’s fossil resources. and chemical usage.
vision: enabling a systemic
sustainable fashion consortium based platform for sustainable
The program focused on environmental The program research rests on fashion
and climate effects caused by global engagement with its consortium: The initiator and the primary funding
change of the fashion industry
fashion sector and the changes required research institutes, universities, organization was MISTRA, the
for future sustainable operations. The government agencies, non- Swedish Foundation for Strategic
research applied the principles of governmental organizations as well Environmental Research, which
and society
circular economy and was structured as companies within the textile value provided a SEK 80 million grant. An
around four themes – Design, Supply chain; from forestry, pulping and textile additional SEK 30 million is co-financed
Chain, User and Recycling. manufacturing to fashion retail and by in-kind contributions from industry
recycling. The partners set the research partners. The program had two four
scope, participate in the research with year phases with a total program period
unique system perspective
intelligence, resources and materials, of eight years, 2011-2019.
The program held a holistic system
and agitate for implementation.
approach for the fashion value chain,
from fiber to recycling, and how it
how
needs to change in order to become results leading to global
A new model is required in order We need textile fibers with lower We hope to see a future with recycled
more circular. The research was cross- competitiveness delivered results are to utilize the resources in the most environmental impact, but comparable fibers from textile waste, new
disciplinary, allowing comprehensive Delivered results are scientific
scientific knowledge, novel efficient and sustainable way, and to in quality and price to existing, non- sustainable production techniques
analyses and insights. New knowledge knowledge and novel solutions that
solutions and concrete minimize (hopefully eliminate) waste. sustainable fibers. A circular model and new consumption habits leading
was verified in a holistic context, enable positive change in the fashion
recommendations Policies are required that prompt will involve more advanced design towards new services such as leasing,
ensuring sustainability also from a sector in terms of its environmental
the development of new market and processes incorporating sustainability re-design and borrowing, which will
system perspective. performance and its global
business models allowing consumer impact procedures right from the encourage flourishing new business
competitiveness.
behavior to be changed. With the aid of design phase – procedures that are in re-use, collection, sorting and
information flow and digital technology based on intended usage and duration recycling. This will mean available
developments, new consumer habits of use, which ensure optimum usage alternatives and enable more
and demands may appear, along with via re-use and which enable separation sustainable actions.
advances in sustainable production and the regeneration of new fibers at
processes and techniques, which also the point of disposal.
assume less geographical dependence.
8 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 9
- review of results-
design
f
circula or
rity
design for
’Eternal Trench Coat’ by
Filippa K
Fast Forward Fashion ’Pulp-It’ by
Kay Politowicz, Kate Goldsworthy &
Hjalmar Granberg
circularity
Consider that the decisions various use cycles, moving the fashion market with the We may intend our clothes to read more:
made at the drawing board will between owners in rental and development of a new bio- be ‘slow’ but for many reasons
Peters G et al. (2018) LCA on fast and
affect the entire lifecycle of sharing contexts. The shirt based nonwoven material. they end up being ‘fast’, and
slow garment prototypes. Mistra Future
the garment. Always design for becomes the lining of a jacket Compared to a woven or knitted vice versa. The prototypes Fashion report series
intended use and beyond. and then it is crafted into fabric, nonwoven material can created in the project Circular
fashion accessories, before eliminate costly processes and Design Speeds, in collaboration Karpenja T et al. (2019) Paper-based
Calculating for all Swedish being chemically regenerated in impacts through a reduced with Filippa K, is an example nonwoven textiles; material recycling
and industrial composting. Mistra
clothing consumption, the year 2068. production phase. Whereas of this paradox. The ’Eternal
Future Fashion Report series
prolonging the active lifetime the environmental impact of Trench Coat’ was designed to
of a garment, the product Another path explores how to conventional clothes are mainly be durable and for efficient Roos S et al. (2019) Guidance for
longevity, by two will decrease reduce production impacts related to the number of uses, recyclable at its eventual fashion companies on design for
its climate impact by half. and retaining the value of the the impact of short-life clothes end. The polyester used is recycling. Mistra Future Fashion Report
Therefore, we must consider material after use. In other made with textile-like paper often associated with fast- series
different ways to enhance its words, material longevity. depends to a greater extent on fashion but can be considered
Granberg H et al. (2018) Crimping and
value at the point when users One possibility is to develop the weight of the material. slow due to its long lifetime. welding of textile-like papers. Mistra
may think of discarding it. materials with lower impacts Through effective recycling Future Fashion Report series.
during production, and avoid Although not ready for full-scale this material can be fast in its
The ‘Service Shirt’ concept the barriers to recycling faced production yet, in the future recovery. The result is a durable Goldsworthy K et al. (2019) Circular
Design Speeds. Mistra Future Fashion
was developed by R. Earley in by conventional garments. we might make clothing for product with an easy route to
Report series
2018. The garment is designed paper recycling or composting. new material after a long life.
as a deliberate extreme to The ‘Fast Forward Fashion’ Different finishing treatments This product made it to full Earley R et al. (2019) Circular Design
have a total life length of 50 concept, developed by K. is a key factor improving commercialisation as well as Researchers in Residence. Mistra Future
‘the service shirt’ by years. The garment lifecycle Goldsworthy, K. Politowicz performance, user acceptance the permanent collection of the Fashion Report series
Rebecca Earley includes inhouse and external and H. Granberg, explore how and even ease of recycling and V&A museum in London.
re-manufacturing processes, to tackle the faster end of industrial composting.
10 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 11
- review of results-
40
wool (12)
textile
30 cotton (51) fiber
viscose (13) impact
20
lyocell (3)
climate change (kg CO2-eq)
10 PET
granulate (10)
PET
0 fibre (5)
PET granulate
biobased (3)
-10 PET granulate
recycled (6)
PA6
textile fiber
-20 granulate (4)
elastane
granulate (1)
-30
impact
figure 1, climate impact comparison of fiber types and the standard deviation between
different textile fiber producers
The common separation into the resources used during the Consider that textile fiber or partly of cotton, water read more:
“good” and “bad” fibers, based entire life cycle. If the factories production also relies on energy consumed in the irrigation
Sandin G et al. (2019) Environmental
on generic classifications of completing the spinning, and materials, other than of cotton cultivation is a
assessment of Swedish clothing
fiber types, is too simplified. weaving, color and sewing part the raw material. Secondary clear hotspot with room for consumption: Six garments – sustainable
A much more nuanced view is is run on fossil fuel the impact flows, including production improvement. The dominance futures. Mistra Future Fashion report
needed in which the separation from these processes is larger of heat, electricity, fertilizers, of water consumed in cotton series
rather is done between than the impact from the textile pesticides, chemicals, catalysts, cultivation is striking, totaling
Sandin G et al.(2019) Environmental
producers with or without fiber alone. and others often have a higher about 87% of the impact.
impact of textile fibres – what we know
appropriate environmental impact on a mass basis than Therefore, reducing the use of and what we don’t know. The fiber bible
management, and poor or The differences between site the raw materials used as fiber cotton fiber in textile products part two. Mistra Future Fashion report
better uses of the fiber. This specific suppliers of textile feedstock. In a future scenario, is one possible solution, either series
measurement must account for fibers are often greater than the care label in our clothes by mixing it with other cellulose
the environmental performance differences between fiber types. will specify energy use, water fibers (eg produced from forest, Rex D et al. (2019) Possible sustainable
fibers on the market and their technical
throughout the entire life cycle For example, the difference in scarcity and toxicity in addition such as lyocell, modal and
properties. The fiber bible part one.
of the final textile product. climate impact between the to fiber content to give a viscose) or replacement with Mistra Future Fashion report series
best and worse cotton fiber complete picture. polyester fiber.
In other words, a t-shirt made is greater than the average Roos S et al. (2019) Supply chain
from organic cotton or recycled difference in climate impact At present, cotton is the most In choosing the textile fiber, guidelines: vision and ecodesign action
list. Mistra Future Fashion report series
material does not automatically between cotton and viscose, commonly used fiber in Sweden. set the fibers’ life cycle
become a more sustainable see figure 1. Implementing best However, cotton is also one performance at center stage,
t-shirt compared to a fossil use practices throughout the of the most damaging textile including their fit-for-purpose
based textile product. Organic production chain is right now a fibers in terms of water scarcity and effects on subsequent
farming is a good start, but more pressing issue than fiber and environmental impact. production, user behavior and
one must also calculate for content. For garments consisting fully end-of-life options.
12 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 13
- review of results-
2.9% 2.8%
use phase laundry end of life
produ
ction
10.8% impac
use phase transport t
3.1% 16.3%
distribution and retail fiber
0.5%
transport in production 10.4%
yarn
15.6%
cut & sew
14.1%
fabric
production
23.5%
wet treatment
impact
figure 2, climate impact per phase in entire life cycle, calculated for all Swedish clothing consumption
At present, 80% of a garment’s One way to reduce the impact The risk of microplastics instead of regular scissors when read more:
climate impact stems from of wet treatments is to shedding from garments cutting the fabric reduces the
Sandin G et al. (2019) Environmental
the production phase, see completely avoid wet dyeing by during production and use shedding with about 50%.
assessment of Swedish clothing
figure 2. Furthermore, 92% adding color pigments already is minimized if: brushing is consumption: Six garments – sustainable
of the toxicity impact stems when the fiber is manufactured, reduced, ultrasound cutting is Consider the fact that 7 kg futures. Mistra Future Fashion report
from the production phase. so called dope dyeing, spin applied in the cut & sew process petrol is needed to produce one series
In other words, most of the dyeing or solution dyeing. and microparticles on fabrics kg cotton t-shirts. This means
Roos S et al. (2017) Microplastics
impact happens before All fibers that are extruded are removed already at the that replacing fossil energy in
shedding from polyester fabrics. Mistra
the garment hit the store. (ie man-made fibers such as production stage. the production chain is seven Future Fashion report series
Therefore, implementing best polyester, nylon, viscose, etc.) times more important than
possible practice is crucial in can be manufactured this way. There is no support for the replacing fossil textile fibers. Roos S et al. (2019) Supply chain
the production chain, and the Such dry dyeing technique is assumption that fabrics made From a science perspective, guidelines: vision and ecodesign action
garments already produced already available on the market, from recycled polymers shed it seems irrational to worry list. Mistra Future Fashion report
must stay in use longer. which means that a reduction more than fabrics made of about 100g fossil content in
Roos S (2016) Advancing life cycle
in climate impact is a possibility virgin polymers. It might instead a polyester t-shirt, but not assessment of textile products
Out of all steps during by choice. be assumed that the concern consider the 1000g fossil fuels to include textile chemicals.
production the wet treatment of fleece material from recycled needed to produce a cotton Inventory data and toxicity impact
processes have the largest A reduction of water usage in polyester, thought of as a main t-shirt assessment. Doctoral thesis.
Chalmers University of Technology
climate impact, see figure the textile preparation phase cause to the microplastics
2. This is due to the large has several positive effects: problem, is explained by the Most positive impact within the
amount of energy required to reduction in energy use, water fact that fleece is a material production line can be done by
heat the process water, which use and reduced amounts of traditionally made from switching to renewable energy,
often stems from fossil energy contaminated wastewater from recycled polyester bottles. Using for both electricity and heat in
sources. the process. an ultrasonic cutting machine the production process.
14 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 15
- review of results-
individual goal setting,
user
60%
feedback, commitment
group goal setting,
47%
feedback, commitment
information only
10%
control group 8%
user
figure 3, positive response towards more sustainable consumer behavior in regards of textile
consumption
The carbon footprint of Swedish to be used only once or a terms of behavior. Comparing Consider that user transport to read more:
clothing consumption is about few times, such as special- towards a group of users being and from the store accounts for
Gwozdz W, Nielsen KS (2017) Field
330 kg CO2 eq. per person. occasion wear. Calculate for exposed to only information 11% of a garment’s total climate
report - Consumer Survey. A Mistra
Although this is only 3% of the intended numbers of use before about the impact of their impact. Today, walking or taking Future Fashion Report.
total carbon footprint of an purchasing newly produced. consumer behavior, which the bike to a local second-hand
average Swede, the climate Always consider how to discard gave 10% positive response, store or to a clothing library is Joanes T, Gwozdz W (2019) Think
impact of clothing needs to be of the product once it has the combination of presented the least harmful choice when Twice – a social marketing toolbox
for reduced consumption. Mistra
reduced to basically zero in a served its purpose. actions gave 60% positive updating your wardrobe.
Future Fashion Report series
sustainable future. response, see figure 3.
At present, there is a
Joanes T et al. (2019) Fostering
The easiest way to reduce discrepancy between attitude Even though setting group goals
sustainable clothing via social
impact from clothing and action. A majority of users shows more potential than marketing tools. Mistra Future
consumption is to extend the express an intent to act and merely information, focusing Fashion Report series
active lifetime of a garment consume in a more sustainable on the individual gives a greater
and thereby offsetting new manner, but this intention is response. For example, a tool Sandin, et al. 2019. Environmental
production. Hence, the most not reflected in their actual used to measure impact must assessment of Swedish clothing
sustainable garment of today is behavior. be able to calculate for the consumption: Six garments –
sustainable futures. Mistra Future
already in our wardrobes. individuals’ impact as oppose
Fashion report series
In order to change user behavior to for example the impact
Consider buying second hand, a combination of information, from all citizen of a country. Nielsen KS, Gwozdz W (2018) Report on
renting or borrowing when individual goal setting, Furthermore, this tool should be geographic differences in acceptance
updating your wardrobe. To feedback and commitment able to suggest improvements of alternative business models. Mistra
rent or borrow is particularly has the greatest potential to tailored to the individual in Future Fashion report series.
important for clothing expected reach a positive change in question.
16 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 17- review of results-
100
alterna
tiv
busine e
80
ss
models
60 -42%
-49% -48%
40
alternative 20
business
0
climate impact
Climate impact energyuse
Energy use waterscarcity
Water scarcityimpact
impact
current scenario long-life scenario (each garment used twice as long)
Current scenario Long-life scenario (each garment used twice as long)
models figure 4, impact reduction from long life scenario
Twice as many uses per garment Instead, there is opportunity to to generate higher turnover. Collective use through renting, read more:
life-cycle eliminated almost derive value from incorporating However, such business leasing and clothing swaps
Sandin G, et al. 2019. Environmental
50% of impact, regardless of aspects of extending active life models requires qualified has the ability to reach several
assessment of Swedish clothing
impact category, see figure 4. of apparel in business models, sorting to generate a desirable user segments, both the more consumption: Six garments – sustainable
In order to make this a reality either through the same or assortment, which makes this trend sensitive and the more futures. Mistra Future Fashion report
we need business deriving consecutive users. model demanding with regards style oriented consumers who series
value from already produced to human capital. favor longevity. Since there is
Zamani B et al. (2017) Life cycle
garments, for example pre- On an average, females and no strong correlation between
assessment of clothing libraries: can
owned/second-hand apparel. younger consumers are more Collective use, for example fashion, materialism and collaborative consumption reduce the
New alternative business likely to report having both used through rental, is another subjective-wellbeing user does environmental impact of fast fashion?
models within reuse, resale, rent and intend to use alternative business model with potential not need to own garments Journal of Cleaner Production, 162: 1368-
and repair is urgently needed. business models when acquiring to prolong the active lifetime in order to feel the rush of 1375.
new clothing. At preent, of clothing. Nonetheless, from acquiring new. This means that
Sweet S et al. (2019). The Swedish
Previously, collection and reselling clothes online and a climate impact perspective, the user could follow the latest
market for pre-owned apparel and its
sales of pre-owned/second- traditional repair services are it is important to consider the trends, be ‘fashionable’, by role in moving the fashion industry
hand apparel and textiles the most popular businesses logistics to avoid merely shifting using clothing libraries and still towards more sustainable practices.
in Sweden has mainly been used to prolong the active the impact origin. Increased experience subjective-wellbeing Mistra Future Fashion report series
voluntarily conducted by charity lifetime of clothes. Furthermore, customer transportation can
Watson D et al. (2019). Policies
organizations due to expected selling pre-owned/second- offset the benefits gained from To further accelerate the
supporting reuse, collective use and
lack of profit. However, recent hand clothes using a ’first buy reduced production. Therefore, change, users and companies prolonged life-time of textiles. Mistra
research states that resale of experience’ setting is a business the location of clothing libraries need to act as co-producers, Future Fashion report series
garments does not necessarily model with growth potential. is crucial, and collaborative both need to contribute in
equal a reduced profit or By replicating traditional selling consumption may not be changing the market. Gwozdz W, Nielsen KS (2017) The
turnover for the textile industry. models, actors have managed suitable for all kinds of clothing. relationship between fashion and style
orientation and well-being. Mistra
Future Fashion Report series
18 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 19- review of results-
8%
10% mixed waste for
‘cream’ for resuse incineration/landfill
in Europe 3%
paper, plastic for recycling policy
instrum
8%
for mechanical
ents
recycling
10%
for industrial
wipes
46%
next best quality
for reuse in Europe,
Africa, Middle East
policy 15%
lowest quality for
reuse in Asia
instruments figure 5. typical composition of collected textiles in Sweden, measured by weight.
A low level of utilization of On an EU-level, the Circular for second hand textiles money. Brands claim that read more:
textiles and ineffective handling Economy Package was are changing due to higher recycled content fabrics
of textile wastes accentuates adopted in 2018 stating that quality requirements and currently cost around 5-15 Elander M et al. (2017) Impact
the depletion of resources in the all member states must collect increasing competition with percent more than the assessment of policies promoting fiber-
to-fiber recycling of textiles. Mistra
value chain. Policy tools, such textiles separately by 2025. low-price new garments. The equivalent fabric from virgin
Future Fashion report series
as labeling, wage subsidies, tax In addition, member states ideal scenario would be that fibers, dependent on the fiber
breaks, start-up funding and must consider by 2024 whether the increasing share of non- type. Thus, the modulated EPR Ljungkvist H et al. (2018) Developments
knowledge hubs are needed to specific targets should be reusable textile begins to raise fee would need to be larger in global markets for used textiles and
enable the change to a circular introduced in regard to reuse real income for the collection than this in order to provide an implications for reuse and recycling.
Mistra Future Fashion report series
system where textile is classified and recycling. The Swedish and processing industry and not incentive and have an impact
as a highly valuable resource. Environmental Protection be the economic dead-weight on the market share of products Ljungqvist H et al. (2019) Key Aspects
Agency has suggested that by it is today. This requires both with recycled content. for Introducing an Extended Producer
At present, the most common 2025, the volume of textiles in technological advancements Responsibility for Textiles in Sweden.
waste management treatment the household waste shall be and development in new sorting A immediate need for collectors Mistra Future Fashion Report series
for used textiles in Sweden reduced by 65% compared to and recycling technologies and and sorters is regulatory actions
Roos S et al. (2019) Guidance for fashion
is incineration with energy 2015. increased demand for recycled to reduce the administrative
companies on design for recycling.
recovery. It is proved that a fibers from the fashion industry burdens related to collection, Mistra Future Fashion Report series
mandatory Extended Producer The global quality of collected in particular. storage and shipment of textile
Responsibility (EPR) and a used textiles is reported to waste. Today, countries and Watson D et al. (2019) Policies
Refunded Virgin Payments be decreasing and could be However, for use of recycled regions have very different supporting reuse, collective use and
prolonged life-time of textiles. Mistra
system, i.e. a charge on virgin further affected by increasing materials, while the Global requirements and regulations,
Future Fashion report series
material, could have large collection rates with lower Recycle Standard fees are which is challenging for
positive impacts on fiber shares of high value materials, relatively low, switching to all industry actors. Hence,
recycling as well as overall reuse so called ‘cream’ (see figure 5). recycled content fabrics will synchronization is needed, both
and recycling of textiles. In addition, current markets generally cost the producer across Europe and globally.
20 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 21- review of results-
end of
reduce
life
reuse
recycle
recover
disposal
end of life figure 6, EU waste hierarchy
Consider that recycling, both Use mono-materials to ease Greater transparency is needed end-of-life option; including
read more:
chemical and mechanical, the chemical recycling process. in a circular textile value chain, both repair, reuse, resale and
should be the last step after the Currently, textile recycling where tagging could be a recycling. Sandin G, Peters G (2018)
point when reuse, repair and processes must handle a solution. Universally accepted Environmental impact of textile reuse
resale are no longer feasible. plethora of different fibers tags could be of great value To establish circular and and recycling – A review. Journal of
Cleaner Production 184
The five-step waste hierarchy, and chemicals, such as dyes, not only in the end of life resource efficient material
see figure 6, introduced by additives, finishing etc., as stage, but throughout the streams, an interdisciplinary Englund F et al. (2017). Textile tagging
the European Union (Directive well as degraded fiber qualities entire life cycle. Apart from joint effort is needed. to enable automated sorting and
2008/98/EC), clarifies waste caused by the use phase. In accessible information about Coordinated tools to overcome beyond. Mistra Future Fashion report
prevention, as the preferred chemical recycling, it is likely the exact fiber composition, the current “chicken-or-egg” series
option, followed by reuse, that fiber blends must be needed in a sorting line, it could situation, with the difficulty
Peters G et al. (2019) Environmental
recycling, recovery (including separated to recycle and restore also contain data about the of sequencing actions where
Prospects for Mixed Textile Recycling in
energy recovery) and safe each fiber type into valuable designer, care-instructions and each seems to depend on others Sweden, ACS Sustainable Chemistry &
disposal as a last option. recycled fibers. previous owners for added value being done first, is needed. An Engineering 7 (13), 11682-11690
in future resale. example is the lack of pure and
When recycling is motivated, To minimize the costs of large waste streams to motivate de la Motte H, Palme A (2018) The
development of the Blend Re:wind
it is crucial to avoid pitfalls recycling processes, both Large-scale automated sorting upscaling of specific recycling
process. Mistra Future Fashion report
like ineffective logistics or environmental and economical, of textiles, using a mixture of processes, and the simultaneous series
processes. It is important that it is important to implement different analyzing methods lack of large scale recycling
the environmental load from end-of-life knowledge already such as tagging (RFID), processes that motivates Roos S et al. (2019) Guidance for fashion
the recycled product is less than at the design stage. Decide spectroscopic sorting (NIR) improved sorting facilities. A companies on design for recycling.
and ocular manual sorting, systemic view is crucial. Mistra Future Fashion report series
for the virgin product that is from the start how the product
replaced. Recycled materials should be used, for how long will likely be essential to sort
should not simply be added to it should be used and how it streams accurately into the
a growing market but replace should be recycled when time most suitable and sustainable
virgin materials. comes.
22 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 23- review of results-
3 500 000
3 000 000
2 500 000 joint
effort
carbon footprint (tonnes CO2 eq)
2 000 000
1 500 000
-49%
1 000 000
-67%
500 000 -78%
0
joint effort
current 2X life time 2X life time + 2X life time +
situation solar-powered solar-powered +
biking to store
figure 7, climate impact reduction from combining efforts
In order to reach a systemic its entire life, is one way of arising from the production, more sustainable fashion read more:
change in fashion, both in concertizing garment impact. transportation and laundering system will happen. Within
Roos S et al. (2019) Guidance for fashion
terms of industry and society, A Life Cycle Assessment relies of clothes. the Mistra Future Fashion companies on design for recycling.
a joint effort is needed. on data from all stakeholders program researchers from Mistra Future Fashion report series
Bringing experts from different throughout the complete life- Lowering the carbon several different disciplines have
disciplines together takes a lot cycle, from crop cultivation, footprint of Swedish clothing worked together to measure, Roos S et al. (2019) Supply chain
of effort from all participants, production, user behavior consumption is possible by concertizes and improve. In guidelines: vision and ecodesign action
list. Mistra Future Fashion report series
but gives back the more and disposal, this is why combining effort from both user addition, the results have
complete picture. Nevertheless, collaboration between research and producers, globally. If we been implemented and tested Sandin G et al. (2019) Environmental
between academics, scientists disciplines and society is crucial. can prolong the active lifetime together with industry partners assessment of Swedish clothing
and industry stakeholders co- of a garment by 2, make sure and societal actors. It is not an consumption: Six garments – sustainable
creation can be possible and The total climate impact of the garment is created in a easy task, but the reward of futures. Mistra Future Fashion report
highly beneficial after building Swedish clothing consumption series
production chain running on doing so is great.
trust, shared goals and deeper is about 3.3 million tonnes of solar-power and make sure the Goldsworthy K et al. (2019) Circular
understanding, along with CO2 eq. per year, which is 327 user walk or take the bike when Design Speeds. Mistra Future Fashion
common tools. kg CO2 eq. per capita or about acquiring new clothes, the total A systemic change is Report series
3% of the consumption-based decrees in climate impact will
needed. It is possible, but Earley R et al. (2019) Circular Design
In order to know where to start carbon footprint of an average be 78%. See figure 7.
the work, one must measure the Swede. This might seem low, but
it will take collaboration Researchers in Residence. Mistra Future
present state of the industry. as the 2-degree goal stipulates No single actor can change and a coordinated joint Fashion Report series
Measuring ‘sustainability’ is that climate impact must be the industry and society alone. effort to make it happen.
a complex task. Life Cycle close to zero by mid-century, However, by implementing
Assessments, the total impact there will be little or no room for research results and improve
of a garment throughout any greenhouse gas emissions collaboration a better and
24 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 25- review of program - - review of program -
value to others
moving research forward
Enabling new knowledge to be leveraged and utilized has been the key focus of the Mistra Future Fashion program, i.e. bringing ‘Value
to Others’. It is about making sure the research conducted also gets implemented, whenever and wherever relevant.
international networks Higg Materials TEDx talks “As the leader of a foundation focused on making fashion a force for good, I have been
Engaging in international networks aims Sustainability Index In July 2018 Leslie Johnston, Executive both informed and inspired by the thoughtful reports produced by Mistra Future Fashion.
to enable further use of the research Developed by the Sustainable Apparel Director at C&A Foundation gave a They have brought data, insights, and clarity to the many, diverse actors working to
results. In March 2017 Mistra Future Coalition, the Higg Index is a suite of TEDx talk titled “Why recycling our positively transform the fashion system. Thank you, Mistra Future Fashion, for your valuable
Fashion was Affiliate Partner during the tools that enables brands, retailers, clothes won’t save the world” where contributions to this field.”
birth of the innovation hub ‘Fashion and facilities of all sizes to accurately she used the MFF report ‘Developments
for Good’ in Amsterdam. In May 2017, measure and score a company or in global markets for used textiles and - Leslie Johnston
Mistra Future Fashion became Affiliated product’s sustainability performance. In implications for reuse and recycling’ Executive Director
Partner and a research science partner 2020, toxicity data from MFF researcher in highlighting what actually happens C&A Foundation
to Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s textile Dr. Sandra Roos is planned to be to the clothes we no longer use. At
initiative ‘Circular Fibres Initiative’, implemented into the Higg Materials present, most clothes will not be reused
where several researchers contributed Sustainability Index (Higg MSI) to or recycled, therefore we are in need of
with data and knowledge input for the calculate a quantitative chemical harmonized global actions in reducing
report ‘A textile Economy - Redesigning toxicity score for each material used in textile waste and making sure we
Fashion’s future’. clothing production. actually can recycle what is collected.
Furthermore, in May 2019 Mistra Future
Fashions’ Communications Manager,
exhibition ‘Fashioned the UNFCCC Fashion Malin Viola Wennberg, gave a TEDx talk
from Nature’ Industry Charter titeled “A future sustainable fashion
Fashioned from Nature is an exhibition for Climate Action system” based on 8 years of research
that explores the relationship between In early 2018 the first global discussion
from within the program.
fashion and nature from 17th to 21st on climate action within the fashion
century. On display is a prototype top sector was held at the UN Climate
and samples of papper-like textile Change secretariat (UNFCCC) in Blend Re:wind
developed by researchers at University Bonn. Mistra Future Fashions program After six years of research within
of The Arts London and RISE within director 2015-2018 Sigrid Barnekow textile recycling MFF revealed unique “Chemistry is one of the impacts the Higg Product Tools measure, but currently the tools only
the MFF program. The exhibition has was invited to act as moderator of the results in November of 2017. New offer a qualitative approach based on management practices to assess potential chemical
so far been shown at Victoria and discussions next to Patricia Espinosa, viscose filaments from cotton was impacts in products. The Sustainable Apparel Coalition has wanted to add a quantitative
Albert Museum in London and at the UNFCCC Executive Secretary and Niclas demonstrated, produced by a successful method as soon as a reliable approach became available. SAC is now happy to be working
Natural History Museum of Denmark in Svenningsen, Manager for Strategy chemical recycling process of polyester/ with RISE IVF to implement the Mistra Future Fashion method, which has been accepted by
Copenhagen. & Relationship unit at UNFCCC. cotton fiber blends. These results SAC members as a promising method for quantitative chemistry assessment. The purpose of
During the 2018 Textile Sustainability are an important milestone towards the project is to complete chemical datasets in the Higg Product Tools by adding chemical
Conference in Milan, the UNFCCC the future of global textile recycling recipe and USEtox factors to generate a quantitative impact assessment in order to show
feeding in to Textile and ‘Fashion Industry Charter for Climate systems necessary to enable circularity the comparative significance of textile chemicals and to make the Higg Product Module
Fashion 2030 Action’ was presented. The charter for fashion and textiles. The process is compatible with other LCA-based initiatives. This will further enhance the Higg Index, making
After eight years of research Mistra
is designed to align with the Paris called Blend Re:wind – and it generates it more reliable for companies seeking to understand the impacts of their products and
Future Fashion is a rich source of results
Agreement and includes greenhouse gas three circular outgoing product streams. identify where they can make sustainability improvements.”
on how to create a more sustainable
emission reduction as well as a decrease Cotton is turned into new high quality
fashion system. Therefore it is great
in coal-driven power generators. The viscose filaments and polyester into two - Julie M.H. Brown
to be able to feed in to the Swedish
complete ‘Fashion Industry Charter for pure new monomers. Director, Higg Index
national platform called Textile and
Climate Action’, which contains the Sustainable Apparel Coalition
Fashion 2030.
vision to achieve net-zero emissions
by 2050, was launched at COP24 in
Katowice, Poland, in December 2018.
26 27 mistra future fashion annual report 2016 mistra future fashion the outlook report 2011-2019 27publications
academic publications Guo Z, Lindqvist KW, de la Motte H (2018) An efficient recycling
process of glycolysis of PET in the presence of a sustainable
Pedersen E, Andersen K (2015) Sustainability innovators and
anchor draggers: a global expert study on sustainable
Sandin G, Clancy G, Heimersson S, Peters G, Svanström M,
ten Hoeve M (2014). Making the most of LCA in technical
nanocatalyst. Journal of Applied Polymer Science 135, 462- fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management 19 inter-organisational R&D projects. Journal of Cleaner
Andersen K, Earley R (2014) Design Thinking for Sustainability; 485 (3), 315-327 Production 70, 97-104
A Case Study of a Research Project between H&M and Gwozdz W, Nielsen KS, Müller T (2017) An Environmental Pedersen E, Earley R, Andersen K (2019) From singular to Sandin G, Peters GM, Svanström M (2013) Moving down the
the Textiles Environment Design Project. 20th annual Perspective on Clothing Consumption: Consumer Segments plural: exploring organisational complexities and circular cause-effect chain of water and land use impacts: an LCA
international sustainable development research conference and Their Behavioral Patterns. Sustainability. 9 (5), 762. business model design. Journal of Fashion Marketing and case study of textile fibres. Resources, Conservation and
Norwegian university of science and technology, Hall P, Peters G, Löfgren K (2016) Greening street-level Management 23 (3), 308-326 Recycling 73, 104-113
Trondheim, Norway, June 18-20, 2014 procurement practice in highly decentralised systems: the Pedersen E, Gardeti M (2015) Introduction for Special Issue on Sandin G, Peters GM, Svanström M (2015) Using the planetary
Bellon-Maurel V, Short MD, Roux P, Schulz M, Peters GM case of Sweden. Journal of Consumer Policy 39(4), 467-483 New Business Models for Sustainable Fashion. Journal of boundaries framework for setting impact-reduction
(2015) Streamlining life cycle inventory data generation Holmquist H, Schellenberger S, van der Veen I, Peters GM, Corporate Citizenship 57 (6), 5-10 targets in LCA contexts. International Journal of Life Cycle
in agriculture using traceability data and information Leonards PEG, Cousins IT (2016) Properties, performance Pedersen E, Gwozdz W (2014) From Resistance to Opportunity Assessment 20(12), 1684-1700.
and communication technologies – part I: concepts and and associated hazards of state-of-the-art durable Seeking: Strategic Responses to Institutional Pressures Sandin G, Røyne F, Berlin J, Peters G, Svanström M (2015)
technical basis. Journal of Cleaner Production 69, 60-66. water repellent (DWR) chemistry for textile finishing. for Corporate Social Responsibility in the Nordic Fashion Allocation in LCAs of biorefinery products: implications
Bellon-Maurel V, Peters GM, Clermidy S., Frizarin G, Sinfort C, Environment International 91, 251-264 Industry. Journal of Business Ethics 119 (2), 245–264 for results and decision-making. Journal of Cleaner
Ojeda H, Roux P, Short MD (2014) Streamlining life cycle Holmquist H, Schellenberger S, van der Veen I, Peters GM, Pedersen E, Lauesen L, Kourula A (2017) Back to basics: Production 93, 213-221
inventory data generation in agriculture using traceability Leonards PEG, Cousins IT (2016) Properties, performance exploring perceptions of stakeholders within the Swedish Sandin G, Peters GM (2018) Environmental impact of textile
data and information and communication technologies and associated hazards of state-of-the-art durable fashion industry. Social Responsibility Journal 13 (2) 266- reuse and recycling – A review. Journal of Cleaner
- Part II: Application to viticulture. Journal of Cleaner water repellent (DWR) chemistry for textile finishing. 278 Production 184, 353-365Sendlhofer T, Lernborg C (2018)
Production Journal of Cleaner Production 87, 119-129 Environment International 91, 251-264 Labour rights training 2.0: The digitalisation of knowledge
Pedersen E, Netter S (2015) Collaborative consumption: business
Biundo A, Subagia R, Maurer M, Ribitsch D, Syrén PO, Guebitz Hvass K (2014) Post-retail responsibility of garments – a fashion model opportunities and barriers for fashion libraries. for workers in global supply chains. Journal of Cleaner
G (2019) Switched reaction specificity in polyesterases industry perspective. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management 19(3), 258- Production 179, 616-630
towards amide bond hydrolysis by enzyme engineering. Management ISSN: 1361-2026 273 von Busch O (Editor) Twigger Holroyd A, Keyte J, Choi Yin S,
2019, submitted to RSC Advances. Ginsburg H, Earley R, Ballie J, Hansson H (2014) In the
Hvass K (2015) Business Model Innovation through Second Hand Politowicz K, Earley R (2013) We Shape Our Tools, Then They
Bly S, Gwozdz W, Reisch L (2015) Exit from High Street – A study Retailing: A Fashion Industry Case. Journal of Corporate Shape Us, in: Praxis and Poetics: Research Through Design, Making: The ‘Power to the People’ Workshop Track at
of sustainable fashion pioneers strategies’ for ethical Citizenship 57, 11-32 Conference Proceedings. pp.176–179 Crafting the Future, The Design Journal, 17:3, 379-401.
fashion consumption Journal of Consumer Studies 39 (2) Wedin H, Niit E, Mansoor Z, Kristinsdottir AR, de la Motte H,
Hvass K (2019) Toward circular economy of fashion - Politowicz K, Goldsworthy K, Earley R (2016 ) Circular Speeds:
Clancy G, Fröling M, Peters G (2015) Eco labels as drivers Experiences from a brands’s product take-back initiative. towards a new understanding of designing for fashion Jönsson C, Östlund Å, Lindgren C (2018) Preparation of
of clothing design. Journal of Cleaner Production 99 Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management 23 (3), textile rhythms. In: Circular Transitions Proceedings: Paper Viscose Fibres Stripped of Reactive Dyes and Wrinkle-Free
(345-353Earley R (2016) Whole Circles: Models for Academic 345-365 presented at Circular Transitions – A Mistra Future Fashion Crosslinked Cotton Textile Finish Journal of Polymers and
Textile Design Research in the Circular Economy, In: Conference on Textile Design and the Circular Economy, the Environment. 26 (9), 3603–3612
Circular Transitions Proceedings: Paper presented at Joanes, T. (2019). Personal norms in a globalized world: Norm-
activation processes and reduced clothing consumption. November 23-24, London, UK, pp. 391-399 Zamani B, Sandin G, Peters G (2017) Life cycle assessment of
Circular Transitions – A Mistra Future Fashion Conference on clothing libraries: can collaborative consumption reduce
Textile Design and the Circular Economy, November 23-24, Journal of cleaner production 212, 941-949. Ribul M, de la Motte H (2016) The material affinity of design
and science for a circular economy. In: Circular Transitions the environmental impact of fast fashion? Journal of
London, UK Jönsson C, Arturin O, Hanning AC, Landin R, Holmström E,
Proceedings: Paper presented at Circular Transitions – A Cleaner Production 162, 1368-1375
Earley R (2017) Circular Design Futures. The Design Journal 20 Roos S (2018) Microplastics Shedding from Textiles—
Developing Analytical Method for Measurement of Shed Mistra Future Fashion Conference on Textile Design and Zamani B, Sandin G, Svanström M, Peters GM (2018) Hotspot
(4), 421-434 the Circular Economy, November 23-24, London, UK, pp. identification in the clothing industry using social life
Material Representing Release during Domestic Washing.
Earley R (2017) Designing Fast & Slow. Exploring fashion textile Sustainability 10 (7), 2457 236-248 cycle assessment – opportunities and challenges of input-
product lifecycle speeds with industry designers, The Design Roos S, Holmquist H, Jönsson C, Arvidsson R (2017) USEtox output modelling. The International Journal of Life Cycle
Journal, 20:sup1, S2645-S2656 Kounina A, Margni M, Bayart J-B, Boulay A-M, Berger M, Bulle
characterization factors for textile chemicals based Assessment 23 (3), 536-546
C, Frischknecht R, Koehler A, Milà i Canals L, Motoshita
Goldsworthy K (2017) The Speedcycle: a design-led framework M, Núñez M, Peters G, Pfister S, Ridoutt B, van Zelm R, on a transparent data source selection strategy. The Zamani B, Svanström M, Peters G, Rydberg T (2014). A carbon
for fast and slow circular fashion lifecycles. The Design Verones F, Humbert S (2013) Review of methods addressing International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment 23 (4), 890- footprint of textile recycling: Case Study – Sweden. Journal
Journal, 20:sup1, S1960-S1970. freshwater use in life cycle inventory and impact 903 of Industrial Ecology 19 (4)
Goldsworthy K, Earley R (2018) Circular Transitions: Textile assessment. International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment Roos S, Peters GM (2015) Three methods for strategic product
design and the circular economy. Journal of Textile Design 18, 707–721. toxicity assessment - the case of the cotton t-shirt.
Research and Practice 6 (1), 1-4
Goldsworthy K, Earley R, Politowicz K (2018) Circular Speeds: A
Palme A, Idström A, Nordstierna, L & Brelid, H (2014) Chemical
and ultrastructural changes in cotton cellulose induced by
International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment 20, 903-912.
Roos S, Posner S, Jönsson C., Peters G (2015) Is Unbleached
book chapters
Review of Fast & Slow Sustainable Design Approaches for laundering and textile use. Cellulose 21 (6), 4681-4691 Cotton Better Than Bleached? Exploring the Limits of Life-
Fashion & Textile Applications. Journal of Textile Design Cycle Assessment in the Textile Sector. Clothing and Textiles Earley R, Vuletich C (2015) Holistic Fashion Design. In: Vaidya
Palme A, Peterson A, de la Motte H, Theliander H, Brelid H
Research and Practice 6 (1), 42-65 Research Journal 33 (4), 231-247 K (ed) Fashion Design for the Curious: Why Study Fashion
(2017). Development of an efficient route for combined
Goldsworthy K, Roos S, Peters G, Sandin G (2016) Towards a Design. Curious Academic Publishing reports, Canberra,
recycling of PET and cotton from mixed fabrics. Textiles Roos S, Zamani B, Sandin G, Peters GM, Svanström M (2016) A
Quantified Design Process: Bridging Design and Life Cycle Australia.
and Clothing Sustainability 3 (4) life cycle assessment (LCA)-based approach to guiding
Assessment. In: Circular Transitions Proceedings: Paper an industry sector towards sustainability: the case of the Earley R, Harvey B. (2015) Elastic Learning Tools, in Cultures
Palme A, Theliander H, Brelid H (2016) Acid hydrolysis of
presented at Circular Transitions – A Mistra Future Fashion Swedish apparel sector. Journal of Cleaner Production 133, of Resilience by Manzini E. and Till J. (eds). Hato Press:
cellulosic fibres: Comparison of bleached kraft pulp,
Conference on Textile Design and the Circular Economy, 691–700. London
dissolving pulps and cotton textile cellulose. Carbohydrate
November 23-24, London, UK, pp. 208-221 Polymers 136, 1281–1287 Rowley HV, Peters GM, Lundie S, Moore SJ (2012) Aggregating Earley R, Goldsworthy K (2018) Circular Textile Design: Old
sustainability indicators: Beyond the weighted sum. Journal Myths and New Models. In: Designing for the Circular
of Environmental Management 111, 24-33 Economy (Ed) Martin Charter. Routledge: London
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