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Contents 06 Intro 38 Transparency is Beautiful 09 It’s time for a Fashion Revolution 46 How to be a Fashion Revolutionary 12 We are Fashion Revolution 48 Be Curious 14 The things we need to change 50 Who made my clothes? 16 The human side of fashion 54 Find Out 18 Cost breakdown of a T-shirt 58 Know your materials 20 Garment Worker Diaries 60 Do Something 24 A to Z Fashion Glossary 70 4 brands designing out waste 28 Fashion’s environmental impact 74 Sign and share the manifesto 31 How long does it take clothes to decompose? 78 Discover more – Further reading 34 Fashion should become wasteless 80 Contact 36 Textile recycling in India 2 3
Calling all fashion revolutionaries! The pro-fashion protesters. The disruptors who dare to say “I can change the world.” This book is for you. It’s full of inspiration and ideas about how you can use your voice and your power to transform the fashion industry as we know it. It’s time for a Fashion Revolution. BE CURIOUS. FIND OUT. DO SOMETHING 22nd — 28th April 2019 4 fashionrevolution.org @fash_rev 5
Introduction We can all be fashion in the minimum wage to $68 per month for make a difference. We all have a role to play if we garment workers. But workers continue to be want to demand a safer, fairer, cleaner industry. revolutionaries. and underpaid where $68 is still far from a living wage. Brands continue to be in the dark about In the following pages, we set out a range of the working conditions and inhuman overtime ways you can make more informed choices Like you, Fashion Revolution loves clothes. But at the factories that are subcontracted to make about the clothes you buy, ways to inspire your we want our clothes to make us feel proud, to their clothes. And while brands may sign up to friends, family and the rest of your community, express who we are, to make us feel better about every accord going, set up recycling initiatives steps you can take to engage with policy makers ourselves. We don’t want to feel guilty that our and pledge to use better cotton, when it comes and brands, and how your everyday actions clothes have been made by machinists who are to the crunch, they still want to make more can create lasting improvements, to make an not paid enough to send their children to school clothes – and cheaper. industry that we can feel proud to be part of and and live in fear of reprisals if they join a union to to invest in. stand up for their rights. We don’t want the cotton As well as seeing how the industry exploits in our shirts to have been grown with pesticides the dollar-a-day hands that make our clothes, Together, we will – we must - make the change. that poison both the earth and the farmers who we have become increasingly aware of how grow it. disgustingly polluting the fashion industry is. We have seen our rivers stripped of fish and filled Fashion Revolution was started in May 2013 as a instead with microfibres, harmful chemicals reaction to the outrage that was the Rana Plaza and toxic waste. We have seen how much water factory disaster. Who could fail to be shocked by it takes to grow cotton, (over 6000 litres to make the industry’s worst ever industrial disaster? a pair of jeans and a t-shirt) and how many pesticides are required to grow conventional What Rana Plaza did was to rub our noses in cotton. And yet we continue to produce (and buy) a dirty business that has been allowed to grow more jeans and t-shirts. Overproduction has out of control. It has galvanised a generation to become a huge issue, with recent revelations question how and where we spend our money, that brands – both luxury and high street – are and completely rethink the contents of our routinely burning what they can’t sell. wardrobes. Fashion Revolution’s one basic call to action in the aftermath of Rana Plaza was to ask So now more than ever, the question remains. “Who Made My Clothes?” It’s a question that has Who Made My Clothes? Do you know? Do the been asked far and wide. brands themselves know? While some progress has been made, the industry that makes the A global resistance movement has exploded and jeans, t-shirts, pants, trainers and fleeces we all the brands are having to listen – and take action. rely on to clothe us every day, is far from clean, Since 2013, thousands of brands have replied to and is still as exploitative of the world’s poorest the question, and over 150 major brands have people as ever. As we now know, the fashion published factory lists. More than 1,300 factories supply chain is about as easy to untangle as have been inspected and 1.8 million garment a nest of vipers. And it’s not going to do it of its “Each and workers have received factory safety information. own accord. every one of What is clear – and encouraging – from the Working conditions are improving and some us can make a wages are increasing too. The Bangladesh global engagement with Fashion Revolution’s campaign is that each and every one of us can difference” government has delivered a 77% increase 6 7
On 24 April 2013, the That’s when Fashion Revolution was born. Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh collapsed. There were five garment factories in Rana Plaza all 1,138 people died and manufacturing clothing for the another 2,500 were western market. The victims were mostly young women. injured, making it the fourth largest industrial We believe that 1,138 is too disaster in history. many people to lose from the planet in one building, on one terrible day to not stand up and demand change. Since then, people from all over the world have come together to use the power of FASHION fashion to change the world. Fashion Revolution is REVOLUTION now a global movement of people like you. Photography by Jaber Al Nahian, Asitimes and Sharat Chowdhury 8 9
We are We are designers, academics, writers, Fashion business leaders, Revolution policymakers, brands, retailers, marketers, producers, makers, We’re here to tell a We believe that positive workers, trade unions different story about change can happen if we the clothes we wear. all think differently about fashion and demand better. and fashion lovers. We want a cleaner, safer, fairer, more transparent and more accountable fashion We are the industry and textiles industry. We want fashion to become a force for good. We believe in and we are the public. We are world citizens. an industry that values people, the environment, creativity and profit in equal measure. We are you. 12 13
The things we need to change It is estimated that we make It takes 2,720 litres of water Model 400 billion m2 of textiles to make a t-shirt. That’s Fashion is now one of the most globalised annually. 60 billion m2 is how much we normally cutting room floor waste. drink over a 3 year period. industries. A single product may span multiple continents before reaching the shop floor. We need to rethink how the industry works. We need to rethink the model. Material Fashion has a huge, and often negative, social and environmental impact. The production of In Guangdong in China young A survey of 91 fashion brands found clothing and the way we take care of our clothes women face 150 hours of overtime that only 12% could demonstrate each month. 60% have no contract, any action at all towards paying after we buy them uses up a lot of land, water, 90% no access to social insurance. wages to garment workers above energy, chemicals, and produces too much waste. the legal minimum. Mindset If we want to see fashion become a force for good, we’re going to have to change the way we think about what we wear and why In Bangladesh garment workers we wear it. We need to love our clothes are paid some of the lowest wages more. We need to look at them as precious in the industry. In September 2018, union leaders rejected the first heirlooms and as trusted friends. pay rise since 2013 of 51% to 8,000 taka ($95 per month). It is still far The Materials, Models and Mindsets framework was created by Prof. Rebecca Earley and Dr. Kate Goldsworthy. below any credible living wage. 14 14 15 15
The human side of fashion fast fashion isn’t free. Millions of people work in the fashion industry. We believe the industry can and should work better for all of them. someone HUMAN RIGHTS FAIR PAY Forced labour, child labour, sexual The legal minimum wage in most harassment, discrimination and dangerous garment-producing countries is rarely somewhere working conditions. These are some of enough for workers to live on. For example, the things that the people who make our in Bangladesh, it’s estimated that the clothes have to go through. minimum wage only covers 60% of the cost of living in a slum. Low wages keep Despite there being international standards garment workers in a cycle of poverty and is paying. and national laws that should protect add to the pressure to work long overtime people, human rights abuses are prevalent hours, which impacts on their health and throughout the fashion industry. The Global safety, as well as the quality of clothes. Slavery Index estimates that 36 million people are living in some form of modern ARTISAN CRAFT slavery today; lots of these people are Mass-produced clothing and accessories making clothes for western brands have eroded the artisanal, heritage craft skills passed down through generations in communities around the world. Millions of people in the developing world – mainly women – depend on the handicraft trade. But right now, that trade faces an uncertain future. – LUCY SIEGLE – 16 17
Cost breakdown of If garment workers were paid a living wage, how CHANGE IN RETAIL PRICE a sample €29 t-shirt much more would you +€1.57 pay for the same t-shirt? RED TEXT HIGHLIGHTS A N I N C R E AS E I N CO S T 01 01 Retail Retail Markup Markup €17 €17.91 ! 02 02 Brand Brand Margin Margin €3.61 Agent €3.85 Agent Retail Price €30.57 Wholesale €12.66 Fee Fee Retail Price €29 Wholesale €12 €1.20 €1.26 FOB €5.36 Transport Transport FOB €5 €2.19 €2.19 Overhead Overhead €0.27 €0.27 06 07 08 06 07 08 03 04 05 03 04 05 Manufacturing Labour Factory Manufacturing Labour Factory Costs €0.18 Margin Costs Margin €3.40 €1.15 €3.40 €0.45 €1.24 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 Retail costs Brand margin Manufacturing costs Labour Factory margin FOB (Freight on board) Wholesale Retail price Retailer’s own staff, Brands' staff, rent, Materials cost, What is paid to workers Other costs not directly The total paid to a The price a store pays What consumers rent, tax and so on. mark-up and direct labour cost and part of the garment factory for a t-shirt for a t-shirt before they pay for the t-shirt profit margin manufacturing overhead sell it on to customers * Based on Asia Floor Wage benchmark Data from Fair Wear Foundation (see reference 7 on p68) 18 19
Garment Worker KEY Minimum Diaries wage Living wage Today most clothing is cut All living wage rates and sewn by women who calculated using the live in the developing world. Anker Methodology via ISEAL Alliance and Wage Indicator Foundation. To hear about their lives and daily finances, See p68 for more details.13 listen to the Garment Worker Diaries This information is based podcast https://www.fashionrevolution. on accurate rates at the time of printing and org/resources/listen-to-the-fashion- may not reflect accurate revolution-podcast/ current rates. Cambodian riel M O N T H LY M I N I M U M WAG E Bangladeshi taka 1,166,900 VS L I V I N G WAG E Cambodian riel 16,460 250 Indian rupees Indian rupees Bangladeshi taka E Q U I VA L E N T U S D O L L A R S 617,585 200 8,929 150 7,085 5,863 100 @anchalproject 50 Shakuntela is an artisan, mother-of-three, and Project Assistant at the Anchal Center in Kerala, 0 India. She works 6 days per week and is proud of recently receiving a raise. She’s become the U T TA R P R A D E S H DHAKA CITY PHNOM PENH expert at selecting saris because of her unique eye for colour combinations and attention to detail. INDIA BA N G L A D E S H CAMBODIA 20 21
1 @tonledesign [From left to right]: Seyma, Hy, Tola, 1 Srey Pov, Leak, Pich, Ming Srey, Srey 3 Roath, Phary and Navy work for Tonlé in Cambodia. 2 @Denimsmith_EastBrunswick Vinh Le Humble is a cutter, 'Jean- maker’, Factory Owner and Director of Denimsmith, Australia. Factory owner for over 20yrs, launched Denimsmith in 2015. 3 @winterwaterfactory Elizabeth Martinez, sewing machine operator at the Jomat factory in Brooklyn, USA, a manufacturer for Winter Water Factory. She does binding, overlock, coverstitch (hemming) and has worked here for 8 years. 4 @pink_city_prints Sanjay has been working at Pink City Prints in Jaipur, India, for over 13 years. He prints, embroiders and finishes 2 4 garments. 22 23
AUDITING BINDING COLLECTIVE DUE DILIGENCE ETHICAL TRADE FORCED LABOUR GRIEVANCE HOMEWORKER is the process of REGULATIONS BARGAINING is a process through means that is when people are MECHANISM is someone who’s D H reviewing a company's require companies is a process where which companies retailers, brands forced to work against is a complaint process subcontracted, A F finances, working to act in ways that employers and unions assesses their impacts and their suppliers their will or by threat of that can be used by works at home and E G conditions, and protect workers and negotiate to determine on human rights and take responsibility force or punishment. workers, allowing them is commonly paid C environmental the environment. fair wages and working the environment and for protecting the Estimates say 21 to voice concerns by each piece they B practices. It uncovers Governments can conditions. then take actions to environment and million people are about working produce rather than risks to workers' safety and should hold reduce any negative improving the working forced to work4, many conditions without an hourly wage. and opportunities companies legally impacts. conditions of the of which are in the fear of punishment or Homeworkers are to improve working accountable for how people who make the cotton and garment retribution. mostly female. conditions. they behave, but they products they sell. industries. often don't. INDUSTRIAL JOIN A UNION KIDS AT WORK LIVING WAGE MINIMUM WAGE NON-COMPLIANCE RELATIONS a union is an child labour is work is a wage a worker is the lowest wage rate is the failure to act J N refers to negotiations organisation made that deprives kids of earns in a standard set by the government in accordance with A TO Z L M among workers, up of employees their childhood, their working week that is at which companies the law, regulation or I managers and which looks after life potential and enough to provide are legally required a company’s code K governments on worker interests and dignity. Estimates say for them and their to pay workers. In of conduct when it business performance protects their rights at there are 168 million family's basic needs developing countries comes to social or and working work. Unions are key child labourers3. - including food, this is often set at the environmental issues. A GLOSSARY OF conditions. Good to solving the fashion housing, clothing, UN poverty level5, which INDUSTRY LINGO industrial relations industry’s problems. education and is US $1.90/ day. are key to a happy healthcare. workforce. OCCUPATIONAL PURCHASING QUICK LEAD TIMES RESPONSIBLE SOCIAL TRANSPARENCY UPCYCLING VALUE CHAIN HEALTH & SAFETY PRACTICES refers to how long CONSUMERISM PROTECTION means companies is the process of refers to all the steps it Q refers to the safety, often involve short- it takes to go from is intentionally buying includes access know who make their reusing materials in takes to produce and O S V health and welfare of term contracts, bad design to final product. goods or services that to health care and clothes, where they are a way that increases sell a product, from P R U people at work. Many of communications, A typical lead time has have minimal to no income security such made and under what a product’s value and farm to closet. T the people who make pressure to deliver gone from 6 months harmful impacts on as sick pay, injury conditions, and they makes it desirable our clothes work in cheap prices and to a couple weeks, humans, animals, or pay, parental leave, share this information again, saving dirty, dangerous and last-minute changes which can increase on the environment. pension, subsidised with the public. garments from going exhausting conditions. to orders. These risk of poor working It’s voting with your $. food or housing. to landfill. enable bad conditions conditions. for workers. W WOMEN’S EMPOWERMENT over 80% of garment workers are women who tend to be stuck in low skill, low pay jobs. Education, training and unions are key to EXPLOITATION X is not paying a living wage for someone’s work. It may also involve practices such as physical intimidation, child labour, forced overtime, YOUR VOICE Y has the power to make a positive difference. Ask questions. Tell the brands you shop from and your local policymakers that you want cleaner, ZERO-HOUR CONTRACTS Z are contracts in which employers are not obliged to provide a set number of working hours each week and consequently do not have to provide enabling women to negotiate better conditions. restricted movement and limiting unions. safer and fairer fashion. social protections. 24 25
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Fashion’s environmental impact waste Right now, manufacturing CO2 EMISSIONS clothes uses up massive Our clothes account for around 3% of global amounts of water, energy production of CO2 emissions. isn’t waste and land. We need to find And that’s not just because of how clothes new ways to make the are made. It’s also down to the way we clothes we love, without take care for them at home. Around half of it costing the earth. these emissions occur while your clothing until we is being worn, washed, tumble-dried, TOXIC FASHION ironed and disposed of, and mostly by Growing the fibres for our clothes, North American, European and Japanese processing, dyeing and treating garments consumers. waste it requires a cocktail of chemicals, some known to be toxic. Cotton farming uses WASTE 22.5% of the world’s insecticides and 10% of In the last 15 years clothing production has all pesticides. approximately doubled. In the same time, the number of times a garment is worn has Dyes for textile products may contain decreased by 36%. Around 300,000 tons of hazardous chemicals. Dyes and chemicals used clothes go to landfill in the UK every year. in fabric and other components of clothing and shoes can seep into the In landfill, the decomposing clothing soil, contaminating groundwater. In fact, releases methane, a harmful greenhouse industrial effluents and chemical fertilisers gas. And even before clothes reach stores, pollute over half of China’s rivers. Rivers in damaged products and rolls of branded or China have even turned red from dyes. recognisable fabrics are slashed, landfilled and incinerated. Meanwhile, every ton of discarded textiles reused saves 20 tons of CO2 from entering the atmosphere. – WILL.I.AM – 28 29
ZINE #003 : FASHION ENVIRONMENT CHANGE how long does it take clothes to decompose Research: by Vicy Hartley @victoria.hartley in landfill? Illustration: Lie Dirkx @liedirkx liedirkx.eu £9 30 31
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WASTE IN FASHION CAN BE REDESIGNED AND MINIMISED. IT CAN BE A MASSIVE PROBLEM OR COULD BE AN UNTAPPED NEVER-ENDING RESOURCE. AS LONG AS THERE ARE CLOTHES BEING MADE, THERE WILL BE OFF-CUTS. AS LONG AS WE WILL BE WEARING CLOTHES, WE WILL LEAVE A TRAIL OF OUR UNWANTED PIECES. SO LET’S INVEST IN CREATIVE DESIGN SOLUTIONS, WASTE CUTTING SKILLS AND TECHNIQUES, RECYCLING INNOVATION IN PRODUCTION AND END-OF-LIFE DISPOSAL. BRANDS AND CONSUMERS ALIKE: WE MUST DISCOVER WAYS TO ACT ON OUR SURPLUS, BEFORE IT BECOMES WASTE. 34 35
Textile PHOTOGRAPHY: © Tim Mitchell and Lucy Norris www.timmitchell.co.uk RESE ARCH : Dr Lucy Norris. Recycling Dr Lucy Norris, a Visiting Fellow at Textiles Environment Design (TED), University of the Arts London, and anthropologist currently exploring sustainable design in India concepts for emerging circular economies. Download publications at: www.lucynorris.co.uk 1 Textile recyclers sort used clothing into over 2 Clothing is compressed into bales weighing up to DOCUMENTARY: ‘Unravel’ 400 categories. 1000kg each. (dir. Meghna Gupta 2012) aeon.co/videos/this-is-the- final-resting-place-of-your- By Lucy Norris cast-off-clothing Used winter clothing can be hard to sell into Reshma, who is a sorter, reflects on the situation global re-use markets, which either have hotter with both wonder and pity at the lifestyles she climates (sub-Saharan Africa, South Asia) or imagines women in richer countries enjoy — free customers who value only high quality, branded to wear want they want and then discard it so garments (Eastern Europe, Russia). The Indian easily. But her husband concludes, “you tend to textile recycling industry imports coats, jackets get dressed for other people… but at the end of and jumpers to shred them and reclaim their the day you’ll be as beautiful as God made you. fibres. The fibres can be spun into recycled All people have a natural beauty.” yarns. These are then woven into cheap blankets, shawls and even fabric for new garments. But Profits in this global second-hand trade 3 The UK is one of the largest global exporters of used 4 Used clothing is exported to sub-Saharan Africa, these are prime examples of down-cycling, have depended upon brokers in the middle textiles, but clothing is often re-sorted in import/export South Asia, Eastern Europe and Russia for re-use hubs before reaching its final destination. and recycling. where poor-quality recycled materials mean connecting dealers, while those at either end that products often don’t last long. know very little about the system as a whole. The workers who sort, prepare and shred the The economic, social and geographical distance used clothing regard it as a resource upon between disposer and recycler means that they which their livelihood depends, but working know little about each others’ lives, and reveals conditions in the recycling factories are often cultural differences around the value of clothing. poor and unregulated. While expensive new Indian families tend to use and reuse cloth technologies are promising to transform the until it literally falls apart, and clothing is never landscape of textile recycling in the global north, simply thrown away. The film Unravel shows will these marginal industries in the global south sorters at a processing factory wondering how be incorporated into reconfigured recycling the huge piles of nearly-new clothing can be economies in such a way as to ensure that they simply discarded, imagining that there must be are transparent, equitable, and sustainable? a water shortage abroad, and that it is cheaper to 5 India imports over 100,000 tonnes of used clothing a year 6 Women prepare the clothing for shredding by hand. give them away than wash them. to supply its textile recycling industry.76 36 37
Transparency transparency is beautiful Knowledge, information, honesty. These three things have the power to transform the industry. And it starts with one accountability simple question: Who made my clothes? THE SITUATION NOW: WHY WE NEED TRANSPARENCY BRANDS DON’T EVEN KNOW Lack of transparency costs lives. WHO MAKES THEIR CLOTHES. It’s impossible for companies to make Too many fashion brands do not know sure human rights are respected and that in which factories their products are environmental practices are sound without made and very few brands know where knowing where their products are made. things like zippers, buttons, thread and change even the fabric comes from. That’s why transparency is essential. Transparency means companies know And it’s not just brands and retailers. who makes their clothes – at least where There are lots of middle-men involved they are stitched as a first step – and too – wholesalers, agents, supply communicate this to their customers, chain managers, and distributors. shareholders and staff. These are important and profitable parts of the industry that the public This is what Fashion Revolution doesn’t really see. is asking for. Knowledge, information, honesty. 38 39
40 ARE THE 150 BIGGEST www.fashionrevolution.org/transparency FA S H I O N T R A N S PA R E N C Y I N D E X 2 0 1 8 FA S H I O N B R A N D S ? H O W T R A N S PA R E N T H OW T R A N S PA R E N T A R E T H E 1 5 0 B I G G E S T G LO BA L FA S H I O N B R A N D S ? Average score is 52 out of 250 (21%). 1% more than last year. Only 10 brands 12 brands scored score higher 0%, disclosing than 50% next to nothing Not a single brand is scoring above 60% 40 20 NO. OF BRANDS 0 1-10 11-20 21-30 31-40 41-50 51-60 61-70 71-80 81-90 91-100 FINAL SCORE (%) TRANSPARENCY 41
42 H OW M U C H I N F O R M AT I O N D O B R A N D S SHARE ABOUT THEIR SUPPLIERS? 37% of brands are 18% of brands publish But only 1 brand is publishing supplier lists their processing facilities publishing its suppliers (which covers at least tier 1) where clothes are dyed, of raw material printed and finished I N C R E AS E I N * AV E R AG E AC R O S S 98 B R A N D S R E V I E W E D I N 2018 T R A N S PA R E N C Y 43
FASHION REVOLU- TIONARY 44 45
BE CURIOUS. FIND OUT. How you can become a Fashion Revolutionary DO You re-shape the fashion industry You re-shape the fashion industry every time you find stories about your clothes, SOMETHING. talk about them with others, share them – the lives of its online, and discuss what’s right and wrong producers, its about them. What you think, say and do workers – every changes fashion. time you buy or You hold the power to influence the kind of dispose of clothing. world you want live in and that you want for others. Your words and where you put your money matters. It sends a signal about what you believe in. It just takes three simple steps... Photography by Humana Fundación Pueblo para Pueblo 46 www.fashionrevolution.org/events 47
TAKE A LOOK AT Fashion Revolution calls on YOUR CLOTHES all of us to be curious about our clothes. You can start by simply turning an item of clothing inside out to look at the stitching. Notice its wavy seams, and where the loose ends of the threads have been cut off. These are all traces of the work done by the people who made your clothes. LOOK AT THE LABEL GET THINKING Your label will tell you in which Where did the materials country your clothing was come from? Where were made – so you’ll know that the they made? What’s it like people who stitched it together to work there? What kind of live in Bangladesh, Cambodia people are involved? What or Romania, for example. The are their lives like? Being label will also tell you what interested in the answers to materials have been used, these kinds of questions is such as cotton or polyester. the best first step towards changing the story for the But your label won’t tell you people who make our clothes. where in the world the cotton was farmed, where the fibre was spun into a yarn, where the yarn was woven into a BE fabric, where it was dyed and printed. It won’t tell you where the thread, dyes, zips, buttons, CURIOUS beading or other features came from. Look at your clothes with different eyes. Ask more than “does this look great on me?”. Ask “who made my clothes?”. 4848 49
ASK BRANDS Turn you clothes inside out, or Some brands won’t answer at WHO MADE MY at least make your label visible, all. Some might tell you where CLOTHES? then take a selfie. Post your your clothes were made but selfie on whatever social media not who made them. Some will platform you prefer with the direct you to their corporate hashtag #whomademyclothes? social responsibility policy. Only Don’t forget to tag the brand a few pioneers will show that you’re wearing to encourage they know something about the them to answer your question. people who make their clothes. The best companies will ask for the RN number on your clothing label and from this give you specific information. RN stands for ‘registered number’ which hold information about its import and export data. Tens of thousands of people have already done this, and the answers have become more and more interesting as the conversation evolves. What will your answer be? TAKE A SELFIE SHOWING YOUR LABEL __________ ASK THE BRAND #WHOMADEMYCLOTHES? 50 51
# WHO MA DE MYCLOT HES? 52 53
HOW TO BECOME What are you wearing as you A FASHION read this now? Have you got DETECTIVE 30 minutes to investigate it online? What could you uncover? Reconstruct the story of your clothes by investigating blogs, online encyclopedias, corporate, NGO and news websites. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER There are loads of organisations that focus on specific issues like fair wages, toxic chemicals and child labour. There’s a list at the end of this booklet. Find out what they’re doing on these issues. Visit their websites, DOWNLOAD THE APP read their reports, attend their Good On You helps you choose events. You’ll be an expert brands that have a positive before you know it. impact while you’re out shopping. Not My Style tells you And before you buy something, how transparent your favourite inform yourself about it. If you brands are about their supply feel unsure, think about the chain (currently only available alternatives. Could you buy the in London). Faer provides same thing second hand? Is information on how and where there an ethically, sustainably a brand produces its clothes, made alternative? Do you really and information about fabrics need it? If we think a little more and dyes used. These apps before we buy, we can change can help tell you the social or the world one outfit at a time. environmental impact of the products you buy. FIND OUT Take a step further. Get to know your clothes even better. 54 55
TAKING A CLOSER We believe transparency is HOW TO USE THE FASHION LOOK AT YOUR the first step to transform the TRANSPARENCY INDEX CLOTHES industry. And it starts with one simple question: Who The FTI focuses on five areas: made my clothes? When we Policy & Commitments; are equipped with credible Governance; Traceability; Know, information about the human Show, Fix; and Spotlight Issues. and environmental impacts 2018’s spotlight issues were of the clothes we buy, we are Women, Workers and Waste. able to make more informed There’s still so much work to do. shopping choices. As a result, Only 10 brands scored higher transparency builds trust in than 50%. the brands we buy. Why not look at how your The 2018 Fashion Transparency favourite brands scored Index reviews and ranks 150 of here. And don’t forget to let the biggest global fashion and brands know how you feel apparel brands and retailers about their FTI rating, using according to how much #whomademyclothes – the information they disclose about louder our voice the more their suppliers, supply chain attention brands will pay! policies and practices, and social and environmental impact. WHO MADE MY CLOTHES? 56 57
DENIM SILK FLEECE Denim was invented in 1873 by Jacob Davis Silk is a luxurious natural protein fibre Fleece is a fabric made from synthetic fibres and Levi Strauss.50 Denim is cotton-based, and produced by moth caterpillars in order to spin and is designed to mimic the qualities of wool. can be woven with other fibres to add elements its cocoon. Mulberry silk worms feast on the Fleece is made from poly-ethylene terephthalate denim traditionally lacks, such as elastane to leaves of least 3 trees to produce 3kg of silk. (PET aka plastic), this means that fleece can be add stretch. Jeans are the most popular denim It’s a very strong fibre.58 made from recycled plastic bottles. product with 1.24 billion pairs sold annually.51 WASHING DISPOSE WASHING and roll the towel up to WASHING DISPOSE Always close zips or Denim is a very durable Check the label. If pre- get out excess water. A fleece jacket may shed Fleece can potentially buttons and turn your material and should last washed, some silk items Lay flat to dry in order to as many as 250,000 be recycled if 100% denim garment inside out you a long while. First can be machine washed prevent too many creases. microfibres per wash, which polyester, check the label before washing. If your check if you can you but always use the Never dry garments can release toxins as they or contact to the company jeans aren’t dirty, don’t pass along your pre-loved delicates setting or the on a wooden rack, this break down and poison to find out how. Fleece wash them, freeze them! denim to a friend. When silk specific programme can leave stains. Never the food chain once they can also be down-cycled Try popping your denim you decide it’s time and wash at 30°C or dry using heat (i.e. on a reach the water supply.61 into building insulation. garments in a bag and put to part with your denim, lower. For extra protection radiator or in the tumble Wash your fleece garments If in good condition, you them in the freezer to get it’s possible that it can you should wash silk dryer), this can cause with a Cora Ball62 or using might consider donating rid of germs and freshen be reused or recycled or garments in a mesh shrinkage or damage. Guppy Friend63 wash bag the item to charities them up. If you absolutely down-cycled. For example, bag.59 If hand washing, in order to prevent this that provide clothing to have to wash them, do so Blue Jeans Go Green add 1/4 cup distilled DISPOSE from happening. homeless people. at 30°C. turns denim that can’t white vinegar to 3.5 litres If properly cared for, silk be re-worn into building of water. This restores its garments should last a DRYING DRYING insulation, keeping it out shine. Submerge and soak very long time. However if Avoid tumble drying and When drying denim, of landfill for a while.53 before rinsing a number of you no longer want your ironing fleece. Heat and flatten the garment into times in fresh water. silk garment, you might friction will cause the tiny shape then hang-dry or try selling it on, gifting it plastic fibres that make up Love your clothes for longer by understanding dry flat. This prevents, or DRYING to someone who will wear fleece to melt. Lay flat to at least reduces, the need Once clean, lay the damp it or transforming it into dry and prevent creasing. how best to wash and care for various types of to iron the garment.52 garment flat on a towel another item you’ll use. fabrics. Here’s a quick guide to get you started. COT TON WOOL, CASHMERE, ANIMAL HAIRS RAYON, LYOCELL , MODAL ACRYLIC, NYLON, POLYESTER Cotton accounts for 40% of global textile Wool is a yarn that is created from the fleece These semi-synthetic fibres derive from raw Synthetic fibres are cheap to produce and production47 and supports the livelihoods of an of animals such as sheep, goats, llamas or natural materials but are treated with chemical offer increased durability and diversity of estimated 300 million people across the world. camelids. Individual wool fibres attach together processes in order to create wearable textiles. uses compared to many natural fibres. It is woven from the fluffy ball of pale soft fibres when spun to create yarn, which is then used Also known as ‘cellulosic fibres’.60 However, these fabrics are not environmentally that encase the seeds of the cotton plant. to create garments.54 Wool retains warmth well friendly and can take hundreds of years to and is naturally stain and wrinkle resistant and WASHING STORE biodegrade.64 absorbent, which makes it easy to dye.55 Turn your clothes inside These sorts of fabrics are WASHING DISPOSE out before washing in the not particularly prone to Natural fibres can be Cotton is a natural WASHING DISPOSE WASHING left in storage. machine. If hand-washing, creasing and can be folded prone to shrinkage so fibre and if non-dyed When machine washing If you must get rid of your Like denim, animal hairs Putting cedar wood balls use 30°C temperature in drawers or stored hang- always wash on a cool or vegetable-dyed can clothes made from syn- synthetic garment, bring should only be washed in your wardrobe can help water with mild deter- ing in your wardrobe. wash (max 30°C) or in potentially be composted. thetics fibres, wash them it to your local textile when absolutely needed. keep them away, or store gent and skip the fabric lukewarm water. But this is rarely the DISPOSE with a Cora Ball or using recycling collection point Always use a detergent your woollens in sealed softener. Avoid wringing case with typical cotton Modal and lyocell a Guppy Friend wash bag for reuse, recycling or designed for woollens and cotton bags as moths out rayon (also called garments, unless certified fibres especially are very in order to prevent tiny down-cycling. For now, DRYING wash on a gentle cycle or don’t like cotton. Put wool- viscose) items as this can ‘organic’. It is also durable and should last microfibres from polluting most synthetic fibres can- Cotton is best dried flat hand wash.56 lens in the freezer for 24 leave them misshapen. possible to recycle cotton. you years if properly cared the water supply. not be recycled but some or hang-dried to prevent hours, take out and bring companies are developing the need for ironing. If If your garment is beyond DRYING for. If no longer wanted, wearable and can’t be DRYING up to room temperature, Rayon is prone to shrink- bring to your local textile DRYING technologies that will an item requires ironing Dry the garment flat and repeat once again to It’s best to hang dry make this more possible then best to do so whilst composted, then take age, so always lay flat to recycling collection point it to the nearest textile and placed in its normal get rid of moths.57 dry. Modal and lyocell are for reuse or down-cycling. synthetic garments. They in future. If 100% poly- slightly damp or use shape. If you hand- shouldn’t need long to ester, check the label or a steam setting.48 recycling bin. If nothing much more resilient and washed the garment, DISPOSE dry. Never tumble dry contact the brand to find else, old cotton clothes or can be tumble dried if place the damp garment First, try swapping with a synthetic fabrics as this out how it can be recycled. home textiles can make absolutely required. flat on a clean towel, roll friend as woollen clothes weakens and damages Sounds obvious but never useful cleaning rags.49 the towel up and squeeze can often have a long the fibres quickly. burn synthetic fabrics as out excess water. lifespan. Otherwise, pure, it can release poisonous un-dyed or vegetable-dyed gases into the air. animal fibres can be STORE composted, as long as the Moths love woollens and garment doesn’t contain often leave big holes in any synthetic fibres or clothes. Moths don’t like dyes (check the label). If light so regularly worn in decent condition, your items are less likely to end local charity shop may 58 up with holes than those 59 also accept it.
BUY BETTER, BUY LESS BUY LESS. We are buying more and INVEST IN Kaitie Jones Knit wearing it less. In the last 15 SUCCESS. years, the number of times we wear a garment before throwing it away or recycling it has decreased by 36%. In China, that figure is a whopping 70%. Reverse the trend: Buy less and CHAMPION NEW DESIGNERS wear it more! One great way to invest is to discover a new designer and become a loyal customer. Doing so means you’ll be involved in all aspects of a fashion start-up, from invitations to special sample sales and pop up shops, to huge discounts on bespoke pieces. There are Eileen Fisher thousands of young emerging designers all over the world working sustainably who are waiting to be discovered. BUY BETTER DO Pachacuti hat weavers The Investment Buy is the opposite of the cheap haul. It’s SOMETHING all about saving money to buy that one special piece, a ‘good friend’ as Joan Crawford said. Becoming a fashion Buy one good one instead of three cheap ones. It’s all about GO ARTISANAL revolutionary can be as buying with care and loving it Look for unique artisanal simple as tweaking the for longer. crafts when you’re shopping way your shop, use and ASK WHY? and you could be supporting the livelihoods of an entire dispose of your clothing. How many times do we buy community somewhere in the just because we can, because world, empowering the women it’s so cheap? But if something who made it. seems impossibly cheap, a bargain too good to be true, it probably is. Question ‘why?’. 60 61
6 ACTIONS TO ASK YOUR GOVERNMENT OR Make it easy for citizens to Raise taxes on the use of virgin LOCAL AUTHORITY reuse and repair clothes and materials and issue penalties TO TAKE shoes. for creating textile waste. Cut taxes for using recycled materials and recycling clothing and textiles. Make it easy for citizens to recycle used clothing and textiles. Invest in research, infrastructure and innovations to reduce clothing and textile Provide more information for waste and build circular FASHION citizens on reusing, repairing economies. and recycling used clothing and textiles. Pass “extended producer responsibility” legislation so that businesses are REVOLUTION accountable for the textile waste they create. 22nd-28th April 2019 fashionrevolution.org @fash_rev 62 63
RENT, SWISH, YOU’RE HIRED MEND, MAKE You can easily find places, SWAP. BUY Hiring is new to the scene, AND CUSTOMIZE physical and online, that will SECOND HAND teach you amazing ways to but a great alternative if you AND VINTAGE customise, mend, transform can’t afford the latest designer PIECES. and revitalise your clothes. wares. The global clothing rental market is estimated to be worth US $9.1million. Needless to say, you can hire celebrities’ FIX UP, LOOK SHARP GO CHARITY SHOPPING gowns, post Hollywood party If something’s broken, fix it At the speed at which we pieces, ex fashion photoshoot yourself or take it to a local tailor. consume right now, last samples and a whole lot more. A rip, a missing button or a stain season’s collections are in the Why buy expensive stuff you should never stand in the way of charity shops in a matter of might only wear once when you you and a good outfit. months. That means you can can hire it? recreate your favourite looks, Check out fashion rental personalise them, and do websites Oprent (oprent.com), your bit to stop perfectly good Wear the Walk (wearthewalk. garments going to landfill. co.uk), Higher Studio (higher. studio) and Rent the Runway TAILOR AWAY (renttherunway.com). If you’ve fallen out of love with a piece of clothing, don’t throw it HAVE A GO out, change it up. You can tailor Why not think about making your clothes to a different shape, own clothes? You’ll have to learn add new embellishments, how to sew a little bit, but once dye it a different colour. You you start, you’ll feel empowered could turn it into something to continue doing it. And then completely new, like a scarf or think about the possibilities! an accessory. SWAP ‘TIL YOU DROP If you’re sick of your wardrobe DONATE YOUR It’s great that you give your Not that you shouldn’t give and in need of a fashion fix, CLOTHES clothes to charity shops when your clothes to charity shops, then you could swap clothes RESPONSIBLY you don’t want them anymore. you should! But consider more BUY VINTAGE with your friends. Go to a big But our unwanted second carefully where you choose swishing event, host your own hand clothing is becoming a to donate. For example, you Stylists use it, celebrities swishing party or even swap problem for some countries in might donate your clothes to swear by it, and it’s a your clothes online. Global the developing world. According help people get to back to work sustainable way to buy. Vintage Fashion Exchange will help you to Oxfam, more than 70% of the with organizations like Dress for gives you personal style and on your way. clothes donated globally end up Success or Career Wardrobe. means you’ll be reusing, in Africa, which has destroyed Or you might look out for local repurposing and extending the the economy for local tailors. clothing drives to help the life of beautiful clothes. homeless, refugees or people in crisis. 64 65
EXPRESS Saint Martin’s who interpreted GET OTHERS There are also loads of Photography by Percy Dean YOURSELF the issues surrounding the INVOLVED schools and universities impact of the fashion industry getting involved in Fashion on the environment for FASHION Revolution too. Is there a CHANGE ENVIRONMENT ZINE 003. Fashion Revolution team where you study? If not, start one. Become a Student Ambassador and represent your university for Fashion Revolution. Email education@fashionrevolution. org to register your interest. Use music, art, poetry or performance to inspire others to become Fashion Revolutionaries too. Check out SEE IT TO HOST A SCREENING the choreography in the award BELIEVE IT winning film Who Made My There are some powerful films BE A CRAFTIVIST and documentaries about the Clothes? directed by MJ Delaney. Use craft as a tool for gentle fashion industry. Get inspired by the drawings protest. Join the Craftivist and visuals made by the Collective and change the Why not host a film screening graphics students of Central world, one stitch at a time. FIND THE #HAULTERNATIVE and gather some experts to lead a discussion. Find the #Haulternative GO GUERRILLA This is for those who are a bit You don’t need to buy new STYLE subversive. Make your own clothes to enjoy a haul. Instead art about Fashion Revolution of the traditional fashion haul, and paste it up around your where you go shopping and city. Stage a cheeky public post a video of what you’ve stunt. Organise a critical mass bought, try a #haulternative; a cycle ride. Host an alternative way of refreshing your wardrobe fashion show. Gentle forms of without buying new clothes. protest can make the strongest YouTube vloggers, including statements. Noodlerella, CutiePieMarzia and Bip Ling, share a better way to FASH MOB haul that’s fun and fabulous, A Flash Mob assembles a from upcycling to swaps to group of people to make a finding gems in charity shops. public statement through Check out their #haulternative performance. You could on Youtube and film your own. organise a “Fash-mob” to get For more ideas, download our people thinking about who Haulternative pdf. makes their clothes. 66 67
MAKE YOUR At Fashion Revolution, we’ve Listen to the 3-part podcast VOICE HEARD already been meeting with Who Made Your Clothes where politicians at the United we discuss the findings of the Nations and European Union Garment Workers Diaries which to discuss how important it is documents the everyday lives that that the fashion industry and wages of garment workers in is made safer, fairer and Bangladesh, Cambodia and India. WRITE TO YOUR cleaner. The UK government POLICYMAKERS is also investigating the and makers behind our clothes. impacts of fast fashion through Encourage your favourite Governments have a part to its Environmental Audit play in helping fashion become brands to share stories from Committee. their makers too. a force for good. Politicians and policymakers can make But your voice would amplify www.fashionrevolution.org/blog a difference through laws this message. Write, call, tweet and government policies and your local politicians and tell practices. And as citizens, it’s them what you want to know JOIN OTHER There are hundreds of Get involved in their campaigns our job to tell politicians what about your clothing. Lead a CAMPAIGNS organisations focused on too. Find out who is doing what kind of world we want to live in. rally or a public demonstration. social and environmental in your country and local area. Tell them that you want more issues in the fashion and Watch pioneering designer protection for both the people textiles industry. Katharine Hamnett on how and the environment that the to write a postcard to a fashion industry depends on. policymaker on our website. KEY ORGANISATIONS ADDRESSING FASHION WASTE MAKE A Make a simple promise or set “this year I’m only STATEMENT yourself a challenge. Share it going to buy what Centre for Circular Design MISTRA Future Fashion on social media and get your I absolutely need” www.circulardesign.org.uk www.mistrafuturefashion.com friends to join you. This should get you thinking more deeply “this year I’m only Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Reverse Resources about what you wear, why and going to buy second- Institute www.reverseresources.net how. It might even boost your hand clothes” www.c2ccertified.org style creativity. TRAID “i’m going to repair ECAP www.traid.org.uk To learn how to fix a hole in a a piece of clothing www.ecap.eu.com jumper, watch the tutorial by every day” crochet queen, Orsola de Castro. WRAP Ellen MacArthur Foundation www.wrap.org.uk www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org MEET THE Discover the real people who Find out what their lives are like Zero Waste Europe MAKERS make your clothes. See their and where they live. Visit the Greenpeace www.zerowasteeurope.eu faces and hear their inspiring ‘Meet the Maker’ section on our www.greenpeace.org/international/en/ stories. blog to hear straight from the campaigns/detox producers, garment workers 68 69
4 FASHION CURATED BY: Sass Brown Author of “ReFashioned: BRANDS Cutting Edge Clothing From Upcycled Materials” and Founding Dean of Dubai Institute NAME : Ecoalf THAT ARE of Design and LOCATION : Spain Innovation. ecoalf.com @ecoalf "Discarded fishing nets, post-consumer plastic DESIGNING bottles, worn-out tires, post-industrial cotton, and even used coffee grinds become our outerwear, swimsuits, sneakers and accessories. In order to ensure 100% transparency and provide the highest OUT WASTE levels of quality, our team manages the full process from waste collection to recycling technologies, manufacture, design and retail." NAME : Doodleage LOCATION : India www.doodlage.in @doodlageofficial "With 40% of garment production being done in India, Bangladesh and China, these countries alone produce enough waste to be able to create 6 billion garments from just scraps and leftovers. These were some alarming stats that led us into creating a brand using fabric that would otherwise go into landfills." NAME : Suave NAME : Bethany Williams LOCATION : Kenya LOCATION : United Kingdom suavekenya.com @suave_ke bethany-williams.com @bethany_williams_london "We buy unwanted and unsellable clothing from traders at the biggest second hand "For my most recent collection market in Kenya. We source waste offcuts 'Women of Change' I have worked from big factories manufacturing clothes for alongside San Patrignano in Rimini, export, and we also buy rejected, lower grade Italy – an education and rehabilitation leather from local tanneries, materials that programme for people with drug and have been left behind by other buyers." alcohol dependency that teaches traditional Italian craft and fosters a sense of community. Together we developed hand-woven textiles from recycled packaging materials found within the workshop." 70 71
Calling all Fashion Revolutionaries! Join the Fashion Revolution. Download our Get Involved pack www.fashionrevolution.org/get-involved 72 73
MANIFESTO FOR A I wholeheartedly FASHION REVOLUTION support this We are Fashion Revolution. We are designers, producers, makers, workers and Fashion Revolution, consumers. We are academics, writers, business leaders, brands, retailers, trade unions and policymakers. We are the industry and the public. let’s endeavour We are world citizens. We are a movement and a community. We are you. We love fashion. But we don’t want our clothes to exploit people or destroy our planet. We to follow this demand radical, revolutionary change. This is our dream... manifesto with every fashionable step we take! Fashion provides dignified work, from conception to creation to catwalk. It does not enslave, endanger, exploit, overwork, harass, abuse or discriminate against anyone. Fashion liberates worker and wearer and empowers everyone to stand up for their rights. Fashion provides fair and equal pay. It enriches the livelihood of everyone working across the industry, from farm to shop floor. Fashion lifts people out of poverty, creates thriving societies and fulfils aspiration. — ARIZONA MUSE — MODEL Fashion gives people a voice, making it possible to speak up without fear, join together in unity without repression and negotiate for better conditions at work and across communities. 74 75
Fashion respects culture and heritage. It fosters, celebrates and rewards skills and craftsmanship. It recognises creativity as its strongest asset. Fashion never appropriates without giving due credit or steals without permission. Fashion honours the artisan. Fashion creates Fashion stands for solidarity, inclusiveness and democracy, regardless of race, class, gender, age, shape or ability. It champions diversity as crucial for success. meaning, and meaning creates Fashion conserves and restores the environment. It does not deplete precious resources, degrade our soil, pollute our air and water or harm our health. Fashion protects the welfare of all living things and safeguards our diverse ecosystems. action. Let us act together towards Fashion never unnecessarily destroys or discards but mindfully redesigns and recuperates in a circular way. Fashion is repaired, reused, recycled and upcycled. Our wardrobes and landfills do not overflow with clothes that are coveted but not cherished, bought but not kept. a sustainable future in fashion! Fashion is transparent and accountable. Fashion embraces clarity and does not hide behind complexity nor rely upon trade secrets to derive value. Anyone, anywhere can find out how, where, by whom and under what conditions their clothing is made. Join Fashion Fashion measures success by more than just sales and profits. Fashion places equal Revolution. value on financial growth, human wellbeing and environmental sustainability. Fashion lives to express, delight, reflect, protest, comfort, commiserate and share. Fashion never subjugates, denigrates, degrades, marginalises or compromises. Fashion celebrates life. — CÉLINE SEMAAN — D E S I G N E R , A D V O C AT E , W R I T E R A N D SIGN THE MANIFESTO F O U N D E R O F S L O W FA C T O R Y A N D T H E L I B R A R Y Join the call for a #FashionRevolution. Let us rise up together and turn this dream into reality! www.fashionrevolution.org/manifesto 76 77
Discover more READING LIST Tansy Hoskins OTHER KEY REPORTS AND RESOURCES FILM LIBRARY Stitched Up [2014] Sandy Black http://www.tansyhoskins.org/stitchedupbook/ ECAP www.pinterest.com/fashrevglobal/ The Sustainable Fashion Handbook [2012] Sustainable Clothing Guide film-library/ www.thamesandhudson.com/ Michael Lavergne http://www.made-by.org/projects/ecap/ The_Sustainable_Fashion_ Fixing Fashion: Rethinking the Way We Make, Handbook/9780500290569 Market and Buy Our Clothes [2015] Ellen MacArthur Foundation FREE DOWNLOADS http://www.fixingfashion.com/ The Circular Economy: A Wealth of Flows Michael Braungart & William McDonough https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation. Fashion Revolution posters, Cradle to Cradle [2002] Annie Leonard org/publications/the-circular-economy-a- social media assets and branding https://www.cradletocradle.com/ The Story of Stuff [2010] wealth-of-flows-2nd-edition www.fashionrevolution.org/resources/ https://storyofstuff.org/book/ brand-guidelines-and-assets/ Andrew Brooks Fashion Revolution Clothing Poverty [2015] Safia Minney Fashion Transparency Index http://www.clothingpoverty.com/ Slow Fashion [2016] https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/ INSPIRATION http://www.safia-minney.com/books.html transparency/ Sass Brown For more inspiration, infographics and Refashioned [2013] Clare Press Greenpeace ideas, check out our Pinterest boards https://www.laurenceking.com/us/product/ Wardrobe Crisis [2016] After the Binge The Hangover www.pinterest.com/fashrevglobal refashioned/ https://www.skyhorsepublishing.com/search- https://www.greenpeace.org/international/ results/?keyword=9781510723429 publication/6884/after-the-binge-the- Fashion Revolution Blog Jonathan Chapman hangover/ www.fashionrevolution.org/blog/ Emotionally Durable Design [2005] Lucy Siegle https://www.routledge.com/Emotionally- To Die For: Is Fashion Wearing Out Greenpeace Durable-Design-Objects-Experiences-and- The World? [2011] Fashion at the Crossroads EVENTS Empathy/Chapman/p/book/9780415732154 www.harpercollins.co.uk/ https://www.greenpeace.org/international/ titles/9780007264094/to-die-for- publication/6969/fashion-at-the- There are now Fashion Revolution teams in Elizabeth Cline lucy-siegle crossroads/ over 100 countries and you can get involved Overdressed: The Shockingly High by attending events in your area. Cost of Cheap Fashion [2012] Emily Spivack TED www.fashionrevolution.org/events www.overdressedthebook.com/author.html Worn Stories [2014] Textile Toolbox http://wornstories.com/ http://www.textiletoolbox.com/ Follow your country’s Facebook and Twitter Kate Fletcher pages to stay in touch with what’s happening. Craft of Use: Post Growth Fashion [2016] Clare Press WRAP http://katefletcher.com/publications/books/ Rise and Resist [2018] Love Your Clothes craft-of-use-post-growth-fashion/ https://www.clarepress.com/book/ http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/love-your- 78 clothes-waste-prevention 79
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