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REVOLUTIONARY

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FASHION REVOLUTIONARY - SUPPORTED BY
Contents

    06   Intro                                         38   Transparency is Beautiful
    09   It’s time for a Fashion Revolution            46   How to be a Fashion Revolutionary
    12   We are Fashion Revolution                     48   Be Curious
    14   The things we need to change                  50   Who made my clothes?
    16   The human side of fashion                     54   Find Out
    18   Cost breakdown of a T-shirt                   58   Know your materials
    20   Garment Worker Diaries                        60   Do Something
    24   A to Z Fashion Glossary                       70   4 brands designing out waste
    28   Fashion’s environmental impact                74   Sign and share the manifesto
    31   How long does it take clothes to decompose?   78   Discover more – Further reading
    34   Fashion should become wasteless               80   Contact
    36   Textile recycling in India
2                                                                                               3
FASHION REVOLUTIONARY - SUPPORTED BY
Calling all fashion
                                            revolutionaries!

                                            The pro-fashion protesters.
                                            The disruptors who dare to
                                            say “I can change the world.”
                                            This book is for you.

                                            It’s full of inspiration and
                                            ideas about how you can use
                                            your voice and your power
                                            to transform the fashion
                                            industry as we know it.

                                            It’s time for a
                                            Fashion Revolution.

    BE CURIOUS. FIND OUT. DO SOMETHING
            22nd­ — 28th April 2019

4       fashionrevolution.org   @fash_rev                                   5
FASHION REVOLUTIONARY - SUPPORTED BY
Introduction      We can all be fashion                                   in the minimum wage to $68 per month for               make a difference. We all have a role to play if we
                                                                              garment workers. But workers continue to be            want to demand a safer, fairer, cleaner industry.
                      revolutionaries.                                        and underpaid where $68 is still far from a living
                                                                              wage. Brands continue to be in the dark about          In the following pages, we set out a range of
                                                                              the working conditions and inhuman overtime            ways you can make more informed choices
                      Like you, Fashion Revolution loves clothes. But         at the factories that are subcontracted to make        about the clothes you buy, ways to inspire your
                      we want our clothes to make us feel proud, to           their clothes. And while brands may sign up to         friends, family and the rest of your community,
                      express who we are, to make us feel better about        every accord going, set up recycling initiatives       steps you can take to engage with policy makers
                      ourselves. We don’t want to feel guilty that our        and pledge to use better cotton, when it comes         and brands, and how your everyday actions
                      clothes have been made by machinists who are            to the crunch, they still want to make more            can create lasting improvements, to make an
                      not paid enough to send their children to school        clothes – and cheaper.                                 industry that we can feel proud to be part of and
                      and live in fear of reprisals if they join a union to                                                          to invest in.
                      stand up for their rights. We don’t want the cotton     As well as seeing how the industry exploits
                      in our shirts to have been grown with pesticides        the dollar-a-day hands that make our clothes,          Together, we will – we must - make the change.
                      that poison both the earth and the farmers who          we have become increasingly aware of how
                      grow it.                                                disgustingly polluting the fashion industry is. We
                                                                              have seen our rivers stripped of fish and filled
                      Fashion Revolution was started in May 2013 as a         instead with microfibres, harmful chemicals
                      reaction to the outrage that was the Rana Plaza         and toxic waste. We have seen how much water
                      factory disaster. Who could fail to be shocked by       it takes to grow cotton, (over 6000 litres to make
                      the industry’s worst ever industrial disaster?          a pair of jeans and a t-shirt) and how many
                                                                              pesticides are required to grow conventional
                      What Rana Plaza did was to rub our noses in             cotton. And yet we continue to produce (and buy)
                      a dirty business that has been allowed to grow          more jeans and t-shirts. Overproduction has
                      out of control. It has galvanised a generation to       become a huge issue, with recent revelations
                      question how and where we spend our money,              that brands – both luxury and high street – are
                      and completely rethink the contents of our              routinely burning what they can’t sell.
                      wardrobes. Fashion Revolution’s one basic call to
                      action in the aftermath of Rana Plaza was to ask        So now more than ever, the question remains.
                      “Who Made My Clothes?” It’s a question that has         Who Made My Clothes? Do you know? Do the
                      been asked far and wide.                                brands themselves know? While some progress
                                                                              has been made, the industry that makes the
                      A global resistance movement has exploded and           jeans, t-shirts, pants, trainers and fleeces we all
                      the brands are having to listen – and take action.      rely on to clothe us every day, is far from clean,
                      Since 2013, thousands of brands have replied to         and is still as exploitative of the world’s poorest
                      the question, and over 150 major brands have            people as ever. As we now know, the fashion
                      published factory lists. More than 1,300 factories      supply chain is about as easy to untangle as
                      have been inspected and 1.8 million garment             a nest of vipers. And it’s not going to do it of its
    “Each and        workers have received factory safety information.       own accord.

      every one of                                                            What is clear – and encouraging – from the
                      Working conditions are improving and some
      us can make a   wages are increasing too. The Bangladesh                global engagement with Fashion Revolution’s
                                                                              campaign is that each and every one of us can
      difference”     government has delivered a 77% increase

6                                                                                                                                                                                          7
FASHION REVOLUTIONARY - SUPPORTED BY
On 24 April 2013, the       That’s when Fashion
                                                                                                             Revolution was born.
                                                                                 Rana Plaza building in
                                                                                 Bangladesh collapsed.       There were five garment
                                                                                                             factories in Rana Plaza all
                                                                                 1,138 people died and       manufacturing clothing for the
                                                                                 another 2,500 were          western market. The victims
                                                                                                             were mostly young women.
                                                                                 injured, making it the
                                                                                 fourth largest industrial   We believe that 1,138 is too
                                                                                 disaster in history.        many people to lose from the
                                                                                                             planet in one building, on one
                                                                                                             terrible day to not stand up
                                                                                                             and demand change.

                                                                                                             Since then, people from all
                                                                                                             over the world have come
                                                                                                             together to use the power of

     FASHION
                                                                                                             fashion to change the world.

                                                                                                             Fashion Revolution is

    REVOLUTION                                                                                               now a global movement
                                                                                                             of people like you.

                 Photography by Jaber Al Nahian, Asitimes and Sharat Chowdhury

8                                                                                                                                             9
FASHION REVOLUTIONARY - SUPPORTED BY
Photograph: Munir Uz Zaman/AFP/Getty Images
10                                                 11
FASHION REVOLUTIONARY - SUPPORTED BY
We are                                                      We are designers,
                                                                 academics, writers,
     Fashion                                                     business leaders,
     Revolution                                                  policymakers, brands,
                                                                 retailers, marketers,
                                                                 producers, makers,
     We’re here to tell a    We believe that positive            workers, trade unions
     different story about   change can happen if we
     the clothes we wear.    all think differently about
                             fashion and demand better.          and fashion lovers.
                             We want a cleaner, safer, fairer,
                             more transparent and more
                             accountable fashion                 We are the industry
                             and textiles industry.
                             We want fashion to become a
                             force for good. We believe in
                                                                 and we are the public.
                                                                 We are world citizens.
                             an industry that values people,
                             the environment, creativity
                             and profit in equal measure.

                                                                 We are you.
12                                                                                        13
FASHION REVOLUTIONARY - SUPPORTED BY
The things we
      need to change
                                                                                                                   It is estimated that we make            It takes 2,720 litres of water
      Model                                                                                                        400 billion m2 of textiles              to make a t-shirt. That’s

      Fashion is now one of the most globalised                                                                    annually. 60 billion m2 is              how much we normally
                                                                                                                   cutting room floor waste.               drink over a 3 year period.
      industries. A single product may span
      multiple continents before reaching the shop
      floor. We need to rethink how the industry
      works. We need to rethink the model.

      Material
      Fashion has a huge, and often negative, social
      and environmental impact. The production of                                                                  In Guangdong in China young             A survey of 91 fashion brands found
      clothing and the way we take care of our clothes                                                             women face 150 hours of overtime        that only 12% could demonstrate
                                                                                                                   each month. 60% have no contract,       any action at all towards paying
      after we buy them uses up a lot of land, water,                                                              90% no access to social insurance.      wages to garment workers above
      energy, chemicals, and produces too much waste.                                                                                                      the legal minimum.

      Mindset
      If we want to see fashion become a force
      for good, we’re going to have to change the
      way we think about what we wear and why                                                                      In Bangladesh garment workers
      we wear it. We need to love our clothes                                                                      are paid some of the lowest wages

      more. We need to look at them as precious                                                                    in the industry. In September 2018,
                                                                                                                   union leaders rejected the first
      heirlooms and as trusted friends.                                                                            pay rise since 2013 of 51% to 8,000
                                                                                                                   taka ($95 per month). It is still far
      The Materials, Models and Mindsets framework was created by Prof. Rebecca Earley and Dr. Kate Goldsworthy.   below any credible living wage.

14
     14                                                                                                                                                                                     15 15
FASHION REVOLUTIONARY - SUPPORTED BY
The human side
     of fashion
                                                                                                  fast fashion
                                                                                                   isn’t free.
     Millions of people work in the
     fashion industry. We believe
     the industry can and should
     work better for all of them.

                                                                                                    someone
     HUMAN RIGHTS                                  FAIR PAY
     Forced labour, child labour, sexual           The legal minimum wage in most
     harassment, discrimination and dangerous      garment-producing countries is rarely

                                                                                                  somewhere
     working conditions. These are some of         enough for workers to live on. For example,
     the things that the people who make our       in Bangladesh, it’s estimated that the
     clothes have to go through.                   minimum wage only covers 60% of the
                                                   cost of living in a slum. Low wages keep
     Despite there being international standards   garment workers in a cycle of poverty and

                                                                                                   is paying.
     and national laws that should protect         add to the pressure to work long overtime
     people, human rights abuses are prevalent     hours, which impacts on their health and
     throughout the fashion industry. The Global   safety, as well as the quality of clothes.
     Slavery Index estimates that 36 million
     people are living in some form of modern      ARTISAN CRAFT
     slavery today; lots of these people are       Mass-produced clothing and accessories
     making clothes for western brands             have eroded the artisanal, heritage craft
                                                   skills passed down through generations in
                                                   communities around the world. Millions of
                                                   people in the developing world – mainly
                                                   women – depend on the handicraft trade.
                                                   But right now, that trade faces an uncertain
                                                   future.

                                                                                                     – LUCY SIEGLE –

16                                                                                                                     17
FASHION REVOLUTIONARY - SUPPORTED BY
Cost breakdown of                                                                                                                 If garment workers were
                                                                                                                                       paid a living wage, how
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 CHANGE IN
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                RETAIL PRICE

     a sample €29 t-shirt                                                                                                              much more would you                                                                       +€1.57
                                                                                                                                       pay for the same t-shirt?

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  RED TEXT HIGHLIGHTS
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  A N I N C R E AS E I N CO S T
     01                                                                                                                                  01
     Retail                                                                                                                              Retail
     Markup                                                                                                                              Markup
     €17                                                                                                                                 €17.91

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    !
     02                                                                                                                                  02
     Brand                                                                                                                               Brand
     Margin                                                                                                                              Margin
     €3.61                                                                       Agent                                                   €3.85                                                                                      Agent

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Retail Price €30.57
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Wholesale €12.66
                                                                                   Fee                                                                                                                                                Fee

                                                                                                                    Retail Price €29
                                                                                                    Wholesale €12
                                                                                  €1.20                                                                                                                                              €1.26

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             FOB €5.36
     Transport                                                                                                                           Transport
                                                                                           FOB €5

     €2.19                                                                                                                               €2.19

     Overhead                                                                                                                            Overhead
     €0.27                                                                                                                               €0.27
                                                                                          06 07 08                                                                                                                                        06 07 08
     03                      04                                                     05                                                   03                             04                                                           05
     Manufacturing           Labour                                          Factory                                                     Manufacturing                  Labour                                                 Factory
     Costs                   €0.18                                            Margin                                                     Costs                                                                                  Margin
     €3.40                                                                      €1.15                                                    €3.40                          €0.45                                                    €1.24

     01                      02                     03                         04                                                      05                             06                           07                          08

     Retail costs            Brand margin           Manufacturing costs        Labour                                                  Factory margin                FOB (Freight on board)        Wholesale                   Retail price
     Retailer’s own staff,   Brands' staff, rent,   Materials cost,            What is paid to workers                                 Other costs not directly      The total paid to a           The price a store pays      What consumers
     rent, tax and so on.    mark-up and            direct labour cost and                                                             part of the garment           factory for a t-shirt         for a t-shirt before they   pay for the t-shirt
                             profit margin          manufacturing overhead                                                                                                                         sell it on to customers

                                                                                                                                       * Based on Asia Floor Wage benchmark
                                                                                                                                         Data from Fair Wear Foundation (see reference 7 on p68)
18                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             19
Garment Worker
                                                                                                                                           KEY

                                                                                                                                                              Minimum

     Diaries                                                                                                                                                  wage

                                                                                                                                                              Living
                                                                                                                                                              wage

     Today most clothing is cut
                                                                                                                                           All living wage rates
     and sewn by women who                                                                                                                 calculated using the
     live in the developing world.                                                                                                         Anker Methodology via
                                                                                                                                           ISEAL Alliance and Wage
                                                                                                                                           Indicator Foundation.
     To hear about their lives and daily finances,                                                                                         See p68 for more details.13
     listen to the Garment Worker Diaries                                                                                                  This information is based
     podcast https://www.fashionrevolution.                                                                                                on accurate rates at
                                                                                                                                           the time of printing and
     org/resources/listen-to-the-fashion-                                                                                                  may not reflect accurate
     revolution-podcast/                                                                                                                   current rates.

                                                                                                                                                                Cambodian riel
                                              M O N T H LY M I N I M U M WAG E
                                                                                                                        Bangladeshi taka

                                                                                                                                                                1,166,900
                                             VS L I V I N G WAG E
                                                                                                                                             Cambodian riel
                                                                                                                        16,460

                                                               250
                                                                                     Indian rupees
                                                                     Indian rupees

                                                                                                     Bangladeshi taka
                        E Q U I VA L E N T U S D O L L A R S

                                                                                                                                             617,585

                                                               200
                                                                                     8,929

                                                               150
                                                                     7,085

                                                                                                     5,863

                                                               100

                                                                                                                                                                                 @anchalproject
                                                               50
                                                                                                                                                                                 Shakuntela is an artisan, mother-of-three, and Project Assistant at the Anchal Center in Kerala,
                                                                 0
                                                                                                                                                                                 India. She works 6 days per week and is proud of recently receiving a raise. She’s become the
                                                                     U T TA R P R A D E S H               DHAKA CITY                              PHNOM PENH                     expert at selecting saris because of her unique eye for colour combinations and attention to detail.
                                                                            INDIA                        BA N G L A D E S H                        CAMBODIA
20                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      21
1 @tonledesign

             [From left to right]: Seyma, Hy, Tola,
     1       Srey Pov, Leak, Pich, Ming Srey, Srey
         3   Roath, Phary and Navy work for Tonlé in
             Cambodia.

             2 @Denimsmith_EastBrunswick

             Vinh Le Humble is a cutter, 'Jean-
             maker’, Factory Owner and Director of
             Denimsmith, Australia. Factory owner
             for over 20yrs, launched Denimsmith
             in 2015.

             3 @winterwaterfactory

             Elizabeth Martinez, sewing machine
             operator at the Jomat factory in
             Brooklyn, USA, a manufacturer for
             Winter Water Factory. She does binding,
             overlock, coverstitch (hemming) and
             has worked here for 8 years.

             4 @pink_city_prints

             Sanjay has been working at Pink City
             Prints in Jaipur, India, for over 13 years.
             He prints, embroiders and finishes
     2   4   garments.

22                                                         23
AUDITING                   BINDING                 COLLECTIVE                 DUE DILIGENCE              ETHICAL TRADE            FORCED LABOUR                GRIEVANCE                  HOMEWORKER
     is the process of          REGULATIONS             BARGAINING                 is a process through       means that               is when people are           MECHANISM                  is someone who’s

                                                                                      D                                                                                                           H
     reviewing a company's      require companies       is a process where         which companies            retailers, brands        forced to work against       is a complaint process     subcontracted,

          A                                                                                                                                 F
     finances, working          to act in ways that     employers and unions       assesses their impacts     and their suppliers      their will or by threat of   that can be used by        works at home and

                                                                                                                 E                                                      G
     conditions, and            protect workers and     negotiate to determine     on human rights and        take responsibility      force or punishment.         workers, allowing them     is commonly paid

                                                             C
     environmental              the environment.        fair wages and working     the environment and        for protecting the       Estimates say 21             to voice concerns          by each piece they

                                    B
     practices. It uncovers     Governments can         conditions.                then take actions to       environment and          million people are           about working              produce rather than
     risks to workers' safety   and should hold                                    reduce any negative        improving the working    forced to work4, many        conditions without         an hourly wage.
     and opportunities          companies legally                                  impacts.                   conditions of the        of which are in the          fear of punishment or      Homeworkers are
     to improve working         accountable for how                                                           people who make the      cotton and garment           retribution.               mostly female.
     conditions.                they behave, but they                                                         products they sell.      industries.
                                often don't.

                                                        INDUSTRIAL                 JOIN A UNION               KIDS AT WORK             LIVING WAGE                  MINIMUM WAGE               NON-COMPLIANCE
                                                        RELATIONS                  a union is an              child labour is work     is a wage a worker           is the lowest wage rate    is the failure to act

                                                                                          J                                                                                                         N
                                                        refers to negotiations     organisation made          that deprives kids of    earns in a standard          set by the government      in accordance with

     A TO Z                                                                                                                                 L                            M
                                                        among workers,             up of employees            their childhood, their   working week that is         at which companies         the law, regulation or

                                                            I
                                                        managers and               which looks after          life potential and       enough to provide            are legally required       a company’s code

                                                                                                                   K
                                                        governments on             worker interests and       dignity. Estimates say   for them and their           to pay workers. In         of conduct when it
                                                        business performance       protects their rights at   there are 168 million    family's basic needs         developing countries       comes to social or
                                                        and working                work. Unions are key       child labourers3.        - including food,            this is often set at the   environmental issues.
          A GLOSSARY OF
                                                        conditions. Good           to solving the fashion                              housing, clothing,           UN poverty level5, which
         INDUSTRY LINGO                                 industrial relations       industry’s problems.                                education and                is US $1.90/ day.
                                                        are key to a happy                                                             healthcare.
                                                        workforce.

     OCCUPATIONAL               PURCHASING              QUICK LEAD TIMES           RESPONSIBLE                SOCIAL                   TRANSPARENCY                 UPCYCLING                  VALUE CHAIN
     HEALTH & SAFETY            PRACTICES               refers to how long         CONSUMERISM                PROTECTION               means companies              is the process of          refers to all the steps it

                                                             Q
     refers to the safety,      often involve short-    it takes to go from        is intentionally buying    includes access          know who make their          reusing materials in       takes to produce and

          O                                                                                                       S                                                                                    V
     health and welfare of      term contracts, bad     design to final product.   goods or services that     to health care and       clothes, where they are      a way that increases       sell a product, from

                                     P                                                R                                                                                 U
     people at work. Many of    communications,         A typical lead time has    have minimal to no         income security such     made and under what          a product’s value and      farm to closet.

                                                                                                                                            T
     the people who make        pressure to deliver     gone from 6 months         harmful impacts on         as sick pay, injury      conditions, and they         makes it desirable
     our clothes work in        cheap prices and        to a couple weeks,         humans, animals, or        pay, parental leave,     share this information       again, saving
     dirty, dangerous and       last-minute changes     which can increase         on the environment.        pension, subsidised      with the public.             garments from going
     exhausting conditions.     to orders. These        risk of poor working       It’s voting with your $.   food or housing.                                      to landfill.
                                enable bad conditions   conditions.
                                for workers.

                   W
     WOMEN’S EMPOWERMENT
     over 80% of garment workers are women who
     tend to be stuck in low skill, low pay jobs.
     Education, training and unions are key to
                                                        EXPLOITATION

                                                                                   X
                                                        is not paying a living wage for someone’s work.
                                                        It may also involve practices such as physical
                                                        intimidation, child labour, forced overtime,
                                                                                                              YOUR VOICE

                                                                                                                            Y
                                                                                                              has the power to make a positive difference. Ask
                                                                                                              questions. Tell the brands you shop from and
                                                                                                              your local policymakers that you want cleaner,
                                                                                                                                                                    ZERO-HOUR CONTRACTS

                                                                                                                                                                                                      Z
                                                                                                                                                                    are contracts in which employers are not obliged
                                                                                                                                                                    to provide a set number of working hours each
                                                                                                                                                                    week and consequently do not have to provide
     enabling women to negotiate better conditions.     restricted movement and limiting unions.              safer and fairer fashion.                             social protections.
24                                                                                                                                                                                                                          25
26   27
Fashion’s
     environmental
     impact

                                                                                                      waste
     Right now, manufacturing                      CO2 EMISSIONS
     clothes uses up massive                       Our clothes account for around 3% of global
     amounts of water, energy                      production of CO2 emissions.

                                                                                                   isn’t waste
     and land. We need to find                     And that’s not just because of how clothes
     new ways to make the                          are made. It’s also down to the way we
     clothes we love, without                      take care for them at home. Around half of
     it costing the earth.                         these emissions occur while your clothing

                                                                                                     until we
                                                   is being worn, washed, tumble-dried,
     TOXIC FASHION                                 ironed and disposed of, and mostly by
     Growing the fibres for our clothes,           North American, European and Japanese
     processing, dyeing and treating garments      consumers.

                                                                                                     waste it
     requires a cocktail of chemicals, some
     known to be toxic. Cotton farming uses         WASTE
     22.5% of the world’s insecticides and 10% of   In the last 15 years clothing production has
     all pesticides.                                approximately     doubled. In the same time,
                                                    the number of times a garment is worn has
     Dyes for textile products may contain          decreased by 36%. Around 300,000 tons of
     hazardous chemicals. Dyes and chemicals used clothes go to landfill in the UK every year.
     in fabric and other components of
     clothing and shoes can seep into the           In landfill, the decomposing clothing
     soil, contaminating groundwater. In fact,      releases methane, a harmful greenhouse
     industrial effluents and chemical fertilisers gas. And even before clothes reach stores,
     pollute over half of China’s rivers. Rivers in damaged products and rolls of branded or
     China have even turned red from dyes.          recognisable fabrics are slashed, landfilled
                                                    and incinerated.

                                                   Meanwhile, every ton of discarded textiles
                                                   reused saves 20 tons of CO2 from entering
                                                   the atmosphere.

                                                                                                      – WILL.I.AM –

28                                                                                                                    29
ZINE #003 :
       FASHION
     ENVIRONMENT
       CHANGE                                                             how long does
                                                                          it take clothes
                                                                          to decompose

                          Research: by Vicy Hartley @victoria.hartley
                                                                          in landfill?

                          Illustration: Lie Dirkx @liedirkx liedirkx.eu
                     £9

30                                                                                          31
32   33
WASTE IN FASHION CAN BE
       REDESIGNED AND MINIMISED.
      IT CAN BE A MASSIVE PROBLEM
         OR COULD BE AN UNTAPPED
         NEVER-ENDING RESOURCE.
     AS LONG AS THERE ARE CLOTHES
        BEING MADE, THERE WILL BE
      OFF-CUTS. AS LONG AS WE WILL
      BE WEARING CLOTHES, WE WILL
     LEAVE A TRAIL OF OUR UNWANTED
         PIECES. SO LET’S INVEST IN
       CREATIVE DESIGN SOLUTIONS,
        WASTE CUTTING SKILLS AND
          TECHNIQUES, RECYCLING
        INNOVATION IN PRODUCTION
        AND END-OF-LIFE DISPOSAL.
         BRANDS AND CONSUMERS
         ALIKE: WE MUST DISCOVER
      WAYS TO ACT ON OUR SURPLUS,
        BEFORE IT BECOMES WASTE.
34                                35
Textile
                                                                                       PHOTOGRAPHY:
                                                                                       © Tim Mitchell and Lucy
                                                                                       Norris
                                                                                       www.timmitchell.co.uk
                                                                                       RESE ARCH : Dr Lucy Norris.

     Recycling
                                                                                       Dr Lucy Norris, a Visiting
                                                                                       Fellow at Textiles
                                                                                       Environment Design (TED),
                                                                                       University of the Arts
                                                                                       London, and anthropologist
                                                                                       currently exploring
                                                                                       sustainable design

     in India
                                                                                       concepts for emerging
                                                                                       circular economies.
                                                                                       Download publications at:
                                                                                       www.lucynorris.co.uk
                                                                                                                      1   Textile recyclers sort used clothing into over               2   Clothing is compressed into bales weighing up to
                                                                                       DOCUMENTARY: ‘Unravel’
                                                                                                                          400 categories.                                                  1000kg each.
                                                                                       (dir. Meghna Gupta 2012)
                                                                                       aeon.co/videos/this-is-the-
                                                                                       final-resting-place-of-your-
     By Lucy Norris                                                                    cast-off-clothing

     Used winter clothing can be hard to sell into           Reshma, who is a sorter, reflects on the situation
     global re-use markets, which either have hotter         with both wonder and pity at the lifestyles she
     climates (sub-Saharan Africa, South Asia) or            imagines women in richer countries enjoy — free
     customers who value only high quality, branded          to wear want they want and then discard it so
     garments (Eastern Europe, Russia). The Indian           easily. But her husband concludes, “you tend to
     textile recycling industry imports coats, jackets       get dressed for other people… but at the end of
     and jumpers to shred them and reclaim their             the day you’ll be as beautiful as God made you.
     fibres. The fibres can be spun into recycled            All people have a natural beauty.”
     yarns. These are then woven into cheap blankets,
     shawls and even fabric for new garments. But            Profits in this global second-hand trade                 3   The UK is one of the largest global exporters of used        4   Used clothing is exported to sub-Saharan Africa,
     these are prime examples of down-cycling,               have depended upon brokers in the middle                     textiles, but clothing is often re-sorted in import/export       South Asia, Eastern Europe and Russia for re-use
                                                                                                                          hubs before reaching its final destination.                      and recycling.
     where poor-quality recycled materials mean              connecting dealers, while those at either end
     that products often don’t last long.                    know very little about the system as a whole.
                                                             The workers who sort, prepare and shred the
     The economic, social and geographical distance          used clothing regard it as a resource upon
     between disposer and recycler means that they           which their livelihood depends, but working
     know little about each others’ lives, and reveals       conditions in the recycling factories are often
     cultural differences around the value of clothing.      poor and unregulated. While expensive new
     Indian families tend to use and reuse cloth             technologies are promising to transform the
     until it literally falls apart, and clothing is never   landscape of textile recycling in the global north,
     simply thrown away. The film Unravel shows              will these marginal industries in the global south
     sorters at a processing factory wondering how           be incorporated into reconfigured recycling
     the huge piles of nearly-new clothing can be            economies in such a way as to ensure that they
     simply discarded, imagining that there must be          are transparent, equitable, and sustainable?
     a water shortage abroad, and that it is cheaper to
                                                                                                                      5   India imports over 100,000 tonnes of used clothing a year    6   Women prepare the clothing for shredding by hand.
     give them away than wash them.                                                                                       to supply its textile recycling industry.76
36                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             37
Transparency
     transparency     is beautiful
                      Knowledge, information,
                      honesty. These three
                      things have the power to
                      transform the industry.
                      And it starts with one

     accountability   simple question:
                      Who made my clothes?

                      THE SITUATION NOW:                         WHY WE NEED TRANSPARENCY
                      BRANDS DON’T EVEN KNOW                     Lack of transparency costs lives.
                      WHO MAKES THEIR CLOTHES.
                                                                 It’s impossible for companies to make
                      Too many fashion brands do not know        sure human rights are respected and that
                      in which factories their products are      environmental practices are sound without
                      made and very few brands know where        knowing where their products are made.
                      things like zippers, buttons, thread and

        change
                      even the fabric comes from.                That’s why transparency is essential.
                                                                 Transparency means companies know
                      And it’s not just brands and retailers.    who makes their clothes – at least where
                      There are lots of middle-men involved      they are stitched as a first step – and
                      too – wholesalers, agents, supply          communicate this to their customers,
                      chain managers, and distributors.          shareholders and staff.
                      These are important and profitable
                      parts of the industry that the public      This is what Fashion Revolution
                      doesn’t really see.                        is asking for. Knowledge,
                                                                 information, honesty.

38                                                                                                           39
40
                                                                                                                                                             ARE THE
                                                                                                                                                             150 BIGGEST

  www.fashionrevolution.org/transparency
  FA S H I O N T R A N S PA R E N C Y I N D E X 2 0 1 8
                                                                                                                                                             FA S H I O N B R A N D S ?
                                                                                                                                                             H O W T R A N S PA R E N T

                                                                                         H OW T R A N S PA R E N T A R E T H E
                                                                   1 5 0 B I G G E S T G LO BA L FA S H I O N B R A N D S ?

                                                                                          Average score
                                                                                         is 52 out of 250
                                                                                         (21%). 1% more
                                                                                          than last year.
                                                                                                                                   Only 10 brands
                                                               12 brands scored                                                      score higher
                                                                0%, disclosing                                                        than 50%
                                                                next to nothing                                                                                Not a single
                                                                                                                                                             brand is scoring
                                                                                                                                                                above 60%
                                                          40

                                                          20
                                  NO. OF BRANDS

                                                                      0           1-10         11-20        21-30   31-40     41-50       51-60      61-70        71-80         81-90   91-100

                                                                                                                       FINAL SCORE (%)

                                                                                                                                                                TRANSPARENCY
41
42
                   H OW M U C H I N F O R M AT I O N D O B R A N D S
                       SHARE ABOUT THEIR SUPPLIERS?

          37% of brands are                                                                               18% of brands publish         But only 1 brand is
       publishing supplier lists                                                                        their processing facilities   publishing its suppliers
     (which covers at least tier 1)                                                                      where clothes are dyed,          of raw material
                                                                                                           printed and finished
                                                                                                I N C R E AS E I N

                           * AV E R AG E AC R O S S 98 B R A N D S R E V I E W E D I N 2018
                                                                                              T R A N S PA R E N C Y

43
FASHION
     REVOLU-
     TIONARY

44             45
BE CURIOUS.
                                                                           FIND OUT.
     How you can
     become
     a Fashion
     Revolutionary
                                                                           DO
     You re-shape the
     fashion industry
                            You re-shape the fashion industry every
                            time you find stories about your clothes,
                                                                           SOMETHING.
                            talk about them with others, share them
     – the lives of its     online, and discuss what’s right and wrong
     producers, its         about them. What you think, say and do
     workers – every        changes fashion.
     time you buy or        You hold the power to influence the kind of
     dispose of clothing.   world you want live in and that you want for
                            others. Your words and where you put your
                            money matters. It sends a signal about
                            what you believe in.

                            It just takes three
                            simple steps...

                                                                           Photography by Humana Fundación Pueblo para Pueblo

46                                                                         www.fashionrevolution.org/events                     47
TAKE A LOOK AT   Fashion Revolution calls on
                                        YOUR CLOTHES     all of us to be curious about
                                                         our clothes. You can start by
                                                         simply turning an item of
                                                         clothing inside out to look at
                                                         the stitching. Notice its wavy
                                                         seams, and where the loose
                                                         ends of the threads have been
                                                         cut off. These are all traces of
                                                         the work done by the people
                                                         who made your clothes.

                                                         LOOK AT THE LABEL                   GET THINKING
                                                         Your label will tell you in which   Where did the materials
                                                         country your clothing was           come from? Where were
                                                         made – so you’ll know that the      they made? What’s it like
                                                         people who stitched it together     to work there? What kind of
                                                         live in Bangladesh, Cambodia        people are involved? What
                                                         or Romania, for example. The        are their lives like? Being
                                                         label will also tell you what       interested in the answers to
                                                         materials have been used,           these kinds of questions is
                                                         such as cotton or polyester.        the best first step towards
                                                                                             changing the story for the
                                                         But your label won’t tell you       people who make our clothes.
                                                         where in the world the cotton
                                                         was farmed, where the fibre
                                                         was spun into a yarn, where
                                                         the yarn was woven into a

       BE                                                fabric, where it was dyed and
                                                         printed. It won’t tell you where
                                                         the thread, dyes, zips, buttons,

       CURIOUS                                           beading or other features
                                                         came from.

       Look at your clothes with
       different eyes. Ask more than
       “does this look great on me?”.
       Ask “who made my clothes?”.

4848                                                                                                                        49
ASK BRANDS    Turn you clothes inside out, or     Some brands won’t answer at
     WHO MADE MY   at least make your label visible,   all. Some might tell you where
     CLOTHES?      then take a selfie. Post your       your clothes were made but
                   selfie on whatever social media     not who made them. Some will
                   platform you prefer with the        direct you to their corporate
                   hashtag #whomademyclothes?          social responsibility policy. Only
                   Don’t forget to tag the brand       a few pioneers will show that
                   you’re wearing to encourage         they know something about the
                   them to answer your question.       people who make their clothes.

                                                       The best companies will ask for
                                                       the RN number on your clothing
                                                       label and from this give you
                                                       specific information. RN stands
                                                       for ‘registered number’ which
                                                       hold information about its
                                                       import and export data.

                                                       Tens of thousands of people
                                                       have already done this, and the
                                                       answers have become more
                                                       and more interesting as the
                                                       conversation evolves.

                                                       What will your answer be?

                                                                                                  TAKE A SELFIE
                                                                                                SHOWING YOUR LABEL
                                                                                                    __________

                                                                                                   ASK THE BRAND
                                                                                                #WHOMADEMYCLOTHES?

50                                                                                                                   51
# WHO MA DE MYCLOT HES?

52
53
HOW TO BECOME   What are you wearing as you
                            A FASHION       read this now? Have you got
                            DETECTIVE       30 minutes to investigate
                                            it online? What could you
                                            uncover? Reconstruct the story
                                            of your clothes by investigating
                                            blogs, online encyclopedias,
                                            corporate, NGO and news
                                            websites.

                                            KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
                                            There are loads of organisations
                                            that focus on specific issues
                                            like fair wages, toxic chemicals
                                            and child labour. There’s a list
                                            at the end of this booklet. Find
                                            out what they’re doing on these
                                            issues. Visit their websites,        DOWNLOAD THE APP
                                            read their reports, attend their     Good On You helps you choose
                                            events. You’ll be an expert          brands that have a positive
                                            before you know it.                  impact while you’re out
                                                                                 shopping. Not My Style tells you
                                            And before you buy something,        how transparent your favourite
                                            inform yourself about it. If you     brands are about their supply
                                            feel unsure, think about the         chain (currently only available
                                            alternatives. Could you buy the      in London). Faer provides
                                            same thing second hand? Is           information on how and where
                                            there an ethically, sustainably      a brand produces its clothes,
                                            made alternative? Do you really      and information about fabrics
                                            need it? If we think a little more   and dyes used. These apps
                                            before we buy, we can change         can help tell you the social or
                                            the world one outfit at a time.      environmental impact of the
                                                                                 products you buy.

     FIND
     OUT
     Take a step further.
     Get to know your
     clothes even better.
54                                                                                                                  55
TAKING A CLOSER   We believe transparency is           HOW TO USE THE FASHION
     LOOK AT YOUR      the first step to transform the      TRANSPARENCY INDEX
     CLOTHES           industry. And it starts with
                       one simple question: Who             The FTI focuses on five areas:
                       made my clothes? When we             Policy & Commitments;
                       are equipped with credible           Governance; Traceability; Know,
                       information about the human          Show, Fix; and Spotlight Issues.
                       and environmental impacts            2018’s spotlight issues were
                       of the clothes we buy, we are        Women, Workers and Waste.
                       able to make more informed           There’s still so much work to do.
                       shopping choices. As a result,       Only 10 brands scored higher
                       transparency builds trust in         than 50%.
                       the brands we buy.                   Why not look at how your
                       The 2018 Fashion Transparency        favourite brands scored
                       Index reviews and ranks 150 of       here. And don’t forget to let
                       the biggest global fashion and       brands know how you feel
                       apparel brands and retailers         about their FTI rating, using
                       according to how much                #whomademyclothes – the
                       information they disclose about      louder our voice the more
                       their suppliers, supply chain        attention brands will pay!
                       policies and practices, and social
                       and environmental impact.

                                                                                                WHO MADE MY CLOTHES?

56                                                                                                                57
DENIM                                                          SILK                                                          FLEECE
                                                               Denim was invented in 1873 by Jacob Davis                      Silk is a luxurious natural protein fibre                     Fleece is a fabric made from synthetic fibres
                                                               and Levi Strauss.50 Denim is cotton-based, and                 produced by moth caterpillars in order to spin                and is designed to mimic the qualities of wool.
                                                               can be woven with other fibres to add elements                 its cocoon. Mulberry silk worms feast on the                  Fleece is made from poly-ethylene terephthalate
                                                               denim traditionally lacks, such as elastane to                 leaves of least 3 trees to produce 3kg of silk.               (PET aka plastic), this means that fleece can be
                                                               add stretch. Jeans are the most popular denim                  It’s a very strong fibre.58                                   made from recycled plastic bottles.
                                                               product with 1.24 billion pairs sold annually.51

                                                                WASHING                         DISPOSE                        WASHING                      and roll the towel up to         WASHING                        DISPOSE
                                                               Always close zips or            Denim is a very durable        Check the label. If pre-      get out excess water.           A fleece jacket may shed       Fleece can potentially
                                                               buttons and turn your           material and should last       washed, some silk items       Lay flat to dry in order to     as many as 250,000             be recycled if 100%
                                                               denim garment inside out        you a long while. First        can be machine washed         prevent too many creases.       microfibres per wash, which    polyester, check the label
                                                               before washing. If your         check if you can you           but always use the            Never dry garments              can release toxins as they     or contact to the company
                                                               jeans aren’t dirty, don’t       pass along your pre-loved      delicates setting or the      on a wooden rack, this          break down and poison          to find out how. Fleece
                                                               wash them, freeze them!         denim to a friend. When        silk specific programme       can leave stains. Never         the food chain once they       can also be down-cycled
                                                               Try popping your denim          you decide it’s time           and wash at 30°C or           dry using heat (i.e. on a       reach the water supply.61      into building insulation.
                                                               garments in a bag and put       to part with your denim,       lower. For extra protection   radiator or in the tumble       Wash your fleece garments      If in good condition, you
                                                               them in the freezer to get      it’s possible that it can      you should wash silk          dryer), this can cause          with a Cora Ball62 or using    might consider donating
                                                               rid of germs and freshen        be reused or recycled or       garments in a mesh            shrinkage or damage.            Guppy Friend63 wash bag        the item to charities
                                                               them up. If you absolutely      down-cycled. For example,      bag.59 If hand washing,                                       in order to prevent this       that provide clothing to
                                                               have to wash them, do so        Blue Jeans Go Green            add 1/4 cup distilled          DISPOSE                        from happening.                homeless people.
                                                               at 30°C.                        turns denim that can’t         white vinegar to 3.5 litres   If properly cared for, silk
                                                                                               be re-worn into building       of water. This restores its   garments should last a           DRYING
                                                                DRYING                         insulation, keeping it out     shine. Submerge and soak      very long time. However if      Avoid tumble drying and
                                                               When drying denim,              of landfill for a while.53     before rinsing a number of    you no longer want your         ironing fleece. Heat and
                                                               flatten the garment into                                       times in fresh water.         silk garment, you might         friction will cause the tiny
                                                               shape then hang-dry or                                                                       try selling it on, gifting it   plastic fibres that make up
Love your clothes for longer by understanding                  dry flat. This prevents, or                                     DRYING                       to someone who will wear        fleece to melt. Lay flat to
                                                               at least reduces, the need                                     Once clean, lay the damp      it or transforming it into      dry and prevent creasing.
how best to wash and care for various types of                 to iron the garment.52                                         garment flat on a towel       another item you’ll use.
fabrics. Here’s a quick guide to get you started.

     COT TON                                                    WOOL, CASHMERE, ANIMAL HAIRS                                  RAYON, LYOCELL , MODAL                                        ACRYLIC, NYLON, POLYESTER
     Cotton accounts for 40% of global textile                  Wool is a yarn that is created from the fleece                These semi-synthetic fibres derive from raw                   Synthetic fibres are cheap to produce and
     production47 and supports the livelihoods of an            of animals such as sheep, goats, llamas or                    natural materials but are treated with chemical               offer increased durability and diversity of
     estimated 300 million people across the world.             camelids. Individual wool fibres attach together              processes in order to create wearable textiles.               uses compared to many natural fibres.
     It is woven from the fluffy ball of pale soft fibres       when spun to create yarn, which is then used                  Also known as ‘cellulosic fibres’.60                          However, these fabrics are not environmentally
     that encase the seeds of the cotton plant.                 to create garments.54 Wool retains warmth well                                                                              friendly and can take hundreds of years to
                                                                and is naturally stain and wrinkle resistant and               WASHING                       STORE                          biodegrade.64
                                                                absorbent, which makes it easy to dye.55                      Turn your clothes inside      These sorts of fabrics are
      WASHING                     DISPOSE                                                                                     out before washing in the     not particularly prone to
     Natural fibres can be       Cotton is a natural                                                                                                                                         WASHING                       DISPOSE
                                                                WASHING                        left in storage.               machine. If hand-washing,     creasing and can be folded
     prone to shrinkage so       fibre and if non-dyed                                                                                                                                      When machine washing           If you must get rid of your
                                                                Like denim, animal hairs       Putting cedar wood balls       use 30°C temperature          in drawers or stored hang-
     always wash on a cool       or vegetable-dyed can                                                                                                                                      clothes made from syn-         synthetic garment, bring
                                                                should only be washed          in your wardrobe can help      water with mild deter-        ing in your wardrobe.
     wash (max 30°C) or in       potentially be composted.                                                                                                                                  thetics fibres, wash them      it to your local textile
                                                                when absolutely needed.        keep them away, or store       gent and skip the fabric
     lukewarm water.             But this is rarely the                                                                                                      DISPOSE                        with a Cora Ball or using      recycling collection point
                                                                Always use a detergent         your woollens in sealed        softener. Avoid wringing
                                 case with typical cotton                                                                                                   Modal and lyocell               a Guppy Friend wash bag        for reuse, recycling or
                                                                designed for woollens and      cotton bags as moths           out rayon (also called
                                 garments, unless certified                                                                                                 fibres especially are very      in order to prevent tiny       down-cycling. For now,
      DRYING                                                    wash on a gentle cycle or      don’t like cotton. Put wool-   viscose) items as this can
                                 ‘organic’. It is also                                                                                                      durable and should last         microfibres from polluting     most synthetic fibres can-
     Cotton is best dried flat                                  hand wash.56                   lens in the freezer for 24     leave them misshapen.
                                 possible to recycle cotton.                                                                                                you years if properly cared     the water supply.              not be recycled but some
     or hang-dried to prevent                                                                  hours, take out and bring                                                                                                   companies are developing
     the need for ironing. If    If your garment is beyond                                                                    DRYING                        for. If no longer wanted,
                                 wearable and can’t be           DRYING                        up to room temperature,        Rayon is prone to shrink-     bring to your local textile      DRYING                        technologies that will
     an item requires ironing                                   Dry the garment flat           and repeat once again to                                                                     It’s best to hang dry          make this more possible
     then best to do so whilst   composted, then take                                                                         age, so always lay flat to    recycling collection point
                                 it to the nearest textile      and placed in its normal       get rid of moths.57            dry. Modal and lyocell are    for reuse or down-cycling.      synthetic garments. They       in future. If 100% poly-
     slightly damp or use                                       shape. If you hand-                                                                                                         shouldn’t need long to         ester, check the label or
     a steam setting.48          recycling bin. If nothing                                                                    much more resilient and
                                                                washed the garment,             DISPOSE                                                                                     dry. Never tumble dry          contact the brand to find
                                 else, old cotton clothes or                                                                  can be tumble dried if
                                                                place the damp garment         First, try swapping with a                                                                   synthetic fabrics as this      out how it can be recycled.
                                 home textiles can make                                                                       absolutely required.
                                                                flat on a clean towel, roll    friend as woollen clothes                                                                    weakens and damages            Sounds obvious but never
                                 useful cleaning rags.49
                                                                the towel up and squeeze       can often have a long                                                                        the fibres quickly.            burn synthetic fabrics as
                                                                out excess water.              lifespan. Otherwise, pure,                                                                                                  it can release poisonous
                                                                                               un-dyed or vegetable-dyed                                                                                                   gases into the air.
                                                                                               animal fibres can be
                                                                 STORE                         composted, as long as the
                                                                Moths love woollens and        garment doesn’t contain
                                                                often leave big holes in       any synthetic fibres or
                                                                clothes. Moths don’t like      dyes (check the label). If
                                                                light so regularly worn        in decent condition, your
                                                                items are less likely to end   local charity shop may
58                                                              up with holes than those                                                                                                                                                                 59
                                                                                               also accept it.
BUY BETTER,                   BUY LESS
                                 BUY LESS.                     We are buying more and
                                 INVEST IN

                                                                                                                                   Kaitie Jones Knit
                                                               wearing it less. In the last 15
                                 SUCCESS.
                                                               years, the number of times
                                                               we wear a garment before
                                                               throwing it away or recycling it
                                                               has decreased by 36%. In China,
                                                               that figure is a whopping 70%.
                                                               Reverse the trend: Buy less and    CHAMPION NEW DESIGNERS
                                                               wear it more!                      One great way to invest is to
                                                                                                  discover a new designer and
                                                                                                  become a loyal customer. Doing
                                                                                                  so means you’ll be involved
                                                                                                  in all aspects of a fashion
                                                                                                  start-up, from invitations to
                                                                                                  special sample sales and pop
                                                                                                  up shops, to huge discounts
                                                                                                  on bespoke pieces. There are

                                               Eileen Fisher
                                                                                                  thousands of young emerging
                                                                                                  designers all over the world
                                                                                                  working sustainably who are
                                                                                                  waiting to be discovered.

                                                               BUY BETTER
     DO

                                                                                                                                    Pachacuti hat weavers
                                                               The Investment Buy is the
                                                               opposite of the cheap haul. It’s

     SOMETHING                                                 all about saving money to buy
                                                               that one special piece, a ‘good
                                                               friend’ as Joan Crawford said.

     Becoming a fashion                                        Buy one good one instead of
                                                               three cheap ones. It’s all about   GO ARTISANAL
     revolutionary can be as                                   buying with care and loving it
                                                                                                  Look for unique artisanal
     simple as tweaking the                                    for longer.
                                                                                                  crafts when you’re shopping

     way your shop, use and                                    ASK WHY?                           and you could be supporting
                                                                                                  the livelihoods of an entire
     dispose of your clothing.                                 How many times do we buy           community somewhere in the
                                                               just because we can, because       world, empowering the women
                                                               it’s so cheap? But if something    who made it.
                                                               seems impossibly cheap, a
                                                               bargain too good to be true, it
                                                               probably is. Question ‘why?’.

60                                                                                                                                                61
6 ACTIONS
     TO ASK YOUR
     GOVERNMENT OR     Make it easy for citizens to     Raise taxes on the use of virgin
     LOCAL AUTHORITY   reuse and repair clothes and     materials and issue penalties
     TO TAKE           shoes.                           for creating textile waste.
                                                        Cut taxes for using recycled
                                                        materials and recycling
                                                        clothing and textiles.
                       Make it easy for citizens to
                       recycle used clothing and
                       textiles.
                                                        Invest in research,
                                                        infrastructure and innovations
                                                        to reduce clothing and textile
                       Provide more information for     waste and build circular

                                                                                             FASHION
                       citizens on reusing, repairing   economies.
                       and recycling used clothing
                       and textiles.

                       Pass “extended producer
                       responsibility” legislation
                       so that businesses are
                                                                                           REVOLUTION
                       accountable for the textile
                       waste they create.

                                                                                                 22nd-28th April 2019
                                                                                            fashionrevolution.org   @fash_rev

62                                                                                                                              63
RENT, SWISH,                                     YOU’RE HIRED                        MEND, MAKE      You can easily find places,
     SWAP. BUY                                        Hiring is new to the scene,         AND CUSTOMIZE   physical and online, that will
     SECOND HAND                                                                                          teach you amazing ways to
                                                      but a great alternative if you
     AND VINTAGE                                                                                          customise, mend, transform
                                                      can’t afford the latest designer
     PIECES.                                                                                              and revitalise your clothes.
                                                      wares. The global clothing
                                                      rental market is estimated to be
                                                      worth US $9.1million. Needless
                                                      to say, you can hire celebrities’                                                         FIX UP, LOOK SHARP
                    GO CHARITY SHOPPING               gowns, post Hollywood party                                                               If something’s broken, fix it
                    At the speed at which we          pieces, ex fashion photoshoot                                                             yourself or take it to a local tailor.
                    consume right now, last           samples and a whole lot more.                                                             A rip, a missing button or a stain
                    season’s collections are in the   Why buy expensive stuff you                                                               should never stand in the way of
                    charity shops in a matter of      might only wear once when you                                                             you and a good outfit.
                    months. That means you can        can hire it?
                    recreate your favourite looks,    Check out fashion rental
                    personalise them, and do          websites Oprent (oprent.com),
                    your bit to stop perfectly good   Wear the Walk (wearthewalk.
                    garments going to landfill.       co.uk), Higher Studio (higher.
                                                      studio) and Rent the Runway                         TAILOR AWAY
                                                      (renttherunway.com).
                                                                                                          If you’ve fallen out of love with a
                                                                                                          piece of clothing, don’t throw it     HAVE A GO
                                                                                                          out, change it up. You can tailor     Why not think about making your
                                                                                                          clothes to a different shape,         own clothes? You’ll have to learn
                                                                                                          add new embellishments,               how to sew a little bit, but once
                                                                                                          dye it a different colour. You        you start, you’ll feel empowered
                                                                                                          could turn it into something          to continue doing it. And then
                                                                                                          completely new, like a scarf or       think about the possibilities!
                                                                                                          an accessory.
                                                      SWAP ‘TIL YOU DROP
                                                      If you’re sick of your wardrobe     DONATE YOUR     It’s great that you give your         Not that you shouldn’t give
                                                      and in need of a fashion fix,       CLOTHES         clothes to charity shops when         your clothes to charity shops,
                                                      then you could swap clothes         RESPONSIBLY     you don’t want them anymore.          you should! But consider more
                    BUY VINTAGE                       with your friends. Go to a big                      But our unwanted second               carefully where you choose
                                                      swishing event, host your own                       hand clothing is becoming a           to donate. For example, you
                    Stylists use it, celebrities      swishing party or even swap                         problem for some countries in         might donate your clothes to
                    swear by it, and it’s a           your clothes online. Global                         the developing world. According       help people get to back to work
                    sustainable way to buy. Vintage   Fashion Exchange will help you                      to Oxfam, more than 70% of the        with organizations like Dress for
                    gives you personal style and      on your way.                                        clothes donated globally end up       Success or Career Wardrobe.
                    means you’ll be reusing,                                                              in Africa, which has destroyed        Or you might look out for local
                    repurposing and extending the                                                         the economy for local tailors.        clothing drives to help the
                    life of beautiful clothes.                                                                                                  homeless, refugees or people
                                                                                                                                                in crisis.
64                                                                                                                                                                                       65
EXPRESS                                           Saint Martin’s who interpreted                               GET OTHERS   There are also loads of

                                                                                        Photography by Percy Dean
     YOURSELF                                          the issues surrounding the                                   INVOLVED     schools and universities
                                                       impact of the fashion industry                                            getting involved in Fashion
                                                       on the environment for FASHION                                            Revolution too. Is there a
                                                       CHANGE ENVIRONMENT ZINE 003.                                              Fashion Revolution team where
                                                                                                                                 you study? If not, start one.
                                                                                                                                 Become a Student Ambassador
                                                                                                                                 and represent your university
                                                                                                                                 for Fashion Revolution. Email
                                                                                                                                 education@fashionrevolution.
                                                                                                                                 org to register your interest.
                    Use music, art, poetry or
                    performance to inspire
                    others to become Fashion
                    Revolutionaries too. Check out                                                                  SEE IT TO                                       HOST A SCREENING
                    the choreography in the award                                                                   BELIEVE IT
                    winning film Who Made My                                                                                                                        There are some powerful films
                                                       BE A CRAFTIVIST                                                                                              and documentaries about the
                    Clothes? directed by MJ Delaney.
                                                       Use craft as a tool for gentle                                                                               fashion industry.
                    Get inspired by the drawings       protest. Join the Craftivist
                    and visuals made by the            Collective and change the                                                                                    Why not host a film screening
                    graphics students of Central       world, one stitch at a time.                                              FIND THE #HAULTERNATIVE            and gather some experts to
                                                                                                                                                                    lead a discussion.
                                                                                                                                 Find the #Haulternative

     GO GUERRILLA   This is for those who are a bit                                                                              You don’t need to buy new
     STYLE          subversive. Make your own                                                                                    clothes to enjoy a haul. Instead
                    art about Fashion Revolution                                                                                 of the traditional fashion haul,
                    and paste it up around your                                                                                  where you go shopping and
                    city. Stage a cheeky public                                                                                  post a video of what you’ve
                    stunt. Organise a critical mass                                                                              bought, try a #haulternative; a
                    cycle ride. Host an alternative                                                                              way of refreshing your wardrobe
                    fashion show. Gentle forms of                                                                                without buying new clothes.
                    protest can make the strongest                                                                               YouTube vloggers, including
                    statements.                                                                                                  Noodlerella, CutiePieMarzia and
                                                                                                                                 Bip Ling, share a better way to
                    FASH MOB                                                                                                     haul that’s fun and fabulous,
                    A Flash Mob assembles a                                                                                      from upcycling to swaps to
                    group of people to make a                                                                                    finding gems in charity shops.
                    public statement through                                                                                     Check out their #haulternative
                    performance. You could                                                                                       on Youtube and film your own.
                    organise a “Fash-mob” to get                                                                                 For more ideas, download our
                    people thinking about who                                                                                    Haulternative pdf.
                    makes their clothes.

66                                                                                                                                                                                                  67
MAKE YOUR                                         At Fashion Revolution, we’ve                                                                Listen to the 3-part podcast
      VOICE HEARD                                       already been meeting with                                                                   Who Made Your Clothes where
                                                        politicians at the United                                                                   we discuss the findings of the
                                                        Nations and European Union                                                                  Garment Workers Diaries which
                                                        to discuss how important it is                                                              documents the everyday lives
                                                        that that the fashion industry                                                              and wages of garment workers in
                                                        is made safer, fairer and                                                                   Bangladesh, Cambodia and India.
                    WRITE TO YOUR                       cleaner. The UK government
                    POLICYMAKERS                        is also investigating the                                and makers behind our clothes.
                                                        impacts of fast fashion through                          Encourage your favourite
                    Governments have a part to          its Environmental Audit
                    play in helping fashion become                                                               brands to share stories from
                                                        Committee.                                               their makers too.
                    a force for good. Politicians
                    and policymakers can make           But your voice would amplify                             www.fashionrevolution.org/blog
                    a difference through laws           this message. Write, call, tweet
                    and government policies and         your local politicians and tell
                    practices. And as citizens, it’s    them what you want to know           JOIN OTHER           There are hundreds of             Get involved in their campaigns
                    our job to tell politicians what    about your clothing. Lead a          CAMPAIGNS            organisations focused on          too. Find out who is doing what
                    kind of world we want to live in.   rally or a public demonstration.                          social and environmental          in your country and local area.
                                                        Tell them that you want more                              issues in the fashion and
                    Watch pioneering designer           protection for both the people                            textiles industry.
                    Katharine Hamnett on how            and the environment that the
                    to write a postcard to a            fashion industry depends on.
                    policymaker on our website.                                              KEY ORGANISATIONS
                                                                                             ADDRESSING FASHION WASTE
      MAKE A        Make a simple promise or set            “this year I’m only
      STATEMENT     yourself a challenge. Share it          going to buy what
                                                                                             Centre for Circular Design                       MISTRA Future Fashion
                    on social media and get your            I absolutely need”
                                                                                             www.circulardesign.org.uk                        www.mistrafuturefashion.com
                    friends to join you. This should
                    get you thinking more deeply           “this year I’m only
                                                                                             Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation             Reverse Resources
                    about what you wear, why and          going to buy second-
                                                                                             Institute                                        www.reverseresources.net
                    how. It might even boost your            hand clothes”
                                                                                             www.c2ccertified.org
                    style creativity.                                                                                                         TRAID
                                                           “i’m going to repair
                                                                                             ECAP                                             www.traid.org.uk
                    To learn how to fix a hole in a         a piece of clothing
                                                                                             www.ecap.eu.com
                    jumper, watch the tutorial by               every day”
                    crochet queen, Orsola de Castro.                                                                                          WRAP
                                                                                             Ellen MacArthur Foundation                       www.wrap.org.uk
                                                                                             www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org
     MEET THE       Discover the real people who        Find out what their lives are like                                                    Zero Waste Europe
     MAKERS         make your clothes. See their        and where they live. Visit the       Greenpeace                                       www.zerowasteeurope.eu
                    faces and hear their inspiring      ‘Meet the Maker’ section on our      www.greenpeace.org/international/en/
                    stories.                            blog to hear straight from the       campaigns/detox
                                                        producers, garment workers

68                                                                                                                                                                                    69
4 FASHION
     CURATED BY:
     Sass Brown
     Author of
     “ReFashioned:

                                                        BRANDS
     Cutting Edge Clothing
     From Upcycled
     Materials” and
     Founding Dean
     of Dubai Institute                                                                                                                                NAME :         Ecoalf

                                                       THAT ARE
     of Design and                                                                                                                                     LOCATION :     Spain
     Innovation.
                                                                                                                                                       ecoalf.com   @ecoalf
                                                                                                                                                       "Discarded fishing nets, post-consumer plastic

                                                      DESIGNING
                                                                                                                                                       bottles, worn-out tires, post-industrial cotton, and
                                                                                                                                                       even used coffee grinds become our outerwear,
                                                                                                                                                       swimsuits, sneakers and accessories. In order to
                                                                                                                                                       ensure 100% transparency and provide the highest

                                                      OUT WASTE
                                                                                                                                                       levels of quality, our team manages the full process
                                                                                                                                                       from waste collection to recycling technologies,
                                                                                                                                                       manufacture, design and retail."

                                                     NAME :            Doodleage
                                                     LOCATION :        India
                                                     www.doodlage.in    @doodlageofficial
                                                     "With 40% of garment production being done in
                                                     India, Bangladesh and China, these countries alone
                                                     produce enough waste to be able to create 6 billion
                                                     garments from just scraps and leftovers. These were
                                                     some alarming stats that led us into creating a brand
                                                     using fabric that would otherwise go into landfills."

     NAME :          Suave                                                                                   NAME :         Bethany Williams
     LOCATION :      Kenya                                                                                   LOCATION :     United Kingdom
     suavekenya.com     @suave_ke                                                                            bethany-williams.com
                                                                                                             @bethany_williams_london
     "We buy unwanted and unsellable clothing
     from traders at the biggest second hand                                                                 "For my most recent collection
     market in Kenya. We source waste offcuts                                                                'Women of Change' I have worked
     from big factories manufacturing clothes for                                                            alongside San Patrignano in Rimini,
     export, and we also buy rejected, lower grade                                                           Italy – an education and rehabilitation
     leather from local tanneries, materials that                                                            programme for people with drug and
     have been left behind by other buyers."                                                                 alcohol dependency that teaches
                                                                                                             traditional Italian craft and fosters
                                                                                                             a sense of community. Together
                                                                                                             we developed hand-woven textiles
                                                                                                             from recycled packaging materials
                                                                                                             found within the workshop."

70                                                                                                                                                                                                            71
Calling all Fashion
     Revolutionaries!
     Join the
     Fashion Revolution.
     Download our Get Involved pack
     www.fashionrevolution.org/get-involved

72                                            73
MANIFESTO
                                               FOR A                                                        I wholeheartedly
                 FASHION REVOLUTION                                                                            support this
         We are Fashion Revolution. We are designers, producers, makers, workers and                             Fashion
                                                                                                               Revolution,
     consumers. We are academics, writers, business leaders, brands, retailers, trade unions
                    and policymakers. We are the industry and the public.

                                                                                                             let’s endeavour
            We are world citizens. We are a movement and a community. We are you.

     We love fashion. But we don’t want our clothes to exploit people or destroy our planet. We

                                                                                                              to follow this
                              demand radical, revolutionary change.

                                            This is our dream...

                                                                                                                manifesto
                                                                                                                with every
                                                                                                               fashionable
                                                                                                              step we take!
                  Fashion provides dignified work, from conception to creation to catwalk. It does not
                  enslave, endanger, exploit, overwork, harass, abuse or discriminate against anyone.
                  Fashion liberates worker and wearer and empowers everyone to stand up for their rights.

                  Fashion provides fair and equal pay. It enriches the livelihood of everyone working
                  across the industry, from farm to shop floor. Fashion lifts people out of poverty,
                  creates thriving societies and fulfils aspiration.

                                                                                                              — ARIZONA MUSE   —
                                                                                                                    MODEL
                  Fashion gives people a voice, making it possible to speak up
                  without fear, join together in unity without repression and negotiate
                  for better conditions at work and across communities.

74                                                                                                                                 75
Fashion respects culture and heritage. It fosters, celebrates and rewards skills and
                                                                        craftsmanship. It recognises creativity as its strongest asset. Fashion never appropriates
                                                                        without giving due credit or steals without permission. Fashion honours the artisan.

      Fashion creates                                                   Fashion stands for solidarity, inclusiveness and democracy, regardless of race,
                                                                        class, gender, age, shape or ability. It champions diversity as crucial for success.

       meaning, and
      meaning creates
                                                                        Fashion conserves and restores the environment. It does not deplete precious
                                                                        resources, degrade our soil, pollute our air and water or harm our health. Fashion
                                                                        protects the welfare of all living things and safeguards our diverse ecosystems.

     action. Let us act
     together towards
                                                                        Fashion never unnecessarily destroys or discards but mindfully redesigns and
                                                                        recuperates in a circular way. Fashion is repaired, reused, recycled and upcycled. Our
                                                                        wardrobes and landfills do not overflow with clothes that are coveted but not cherished,
                                                                        bought but not kept.

       a sustainable
     future in fashion!
                                                                        Fashion is transparent and accountable. Fashion embraces clarity and does not hide
                                                                        behind complexity nor rely upon trade secrets to derive value. Anyone, anywhere can
                                                                        find out how, where, by whom and under what conditions their clothing is made.

       Join Fashion                                                     Fashion measures success by more than just sales and profits. Fashion places equal

        Revolution.
                                                                        value on financial growth, human wellbeing and environmental sustainability.

                                                                        Fashion lives to express, delight, reflect, protest, comfort, commiserate and share.
                                                                        Fashion never subjugates, denigrates, degrades, marginalises or compromises.
                                                                        Fashion celebrates life.

             —     CÉLINE SEMAAN                            —
            D E S I G N E R , A D V O C AT E , W R I T E R A N D
                                                                                        SIGN THE MANIFESTO
     F O U N D E R O F S L O W FA C T O R Y A N D T H E L I B R A R Y
                                                                                       Join the call for a #FashionRevolution.
                                                                              Let us rise up together and turn this dream into reality!

                                                                                       www.fashionrevolution.org/manifesto
76                                                                                                                                                                   77
Discover
     more

     READING LIST                                  Tansy Hoskins                                 OTHER KEY REPORTS AND RESOURCES             FILM LIBRARY
                                                   Stitched Up [2014]
     Sandy Black                                   http://www.tansyhoskins.org/stitchedupbook/   ECAP                                        www.pinterest.com/fashrevglobal/
     The Sustainable Fashion Handbook [2012]                                                     Sustainable Clothing Guide                  film-library/
     www.thamesandhudson.com/                      Michael Lavergne                              http://www.made-by.org/projects/ecap/
     The_Sustainable_Fashion_                      Fixing Fashion: Rethinking the Way We Make,
     Handbook/9780500290569                        Market and Buy Our Clothes [2015]             Ellen MacArthur Foundation                  FREE DOWNLOADS
                                                   http://www.fixingfashion.com/                 The Circular Economy: A Wealth of Flows
     Michael Braungart & William McDonough                                                       https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.       Fashion Revolution posters,
     Cradle to Cradle [2002]                       Annie Leonard                                 org/publications/the-circular-economy-a-    social media assets and branding
     https://www.cradletocradle.com/               The Story of Stuff [2010]                     wealth-of-flows-2nd-edition                 www.fashionrevolution.org/resources/
                                                   https://storyofstuff.org/book/                                                            brand-guidelines-and-assets/
     Andrew Brooks                                                                               Fashion Revolution
     Clothing Poverty [2015]                       Safia Minney                                  Fashion Transparency Index
     http://www.clothingpoverty.com/               Slow Fashion [2016]                           https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/    INSPIRATION
                                                   http://www.safia-minney.com/books.html        transparency/
     Sass Brown                                                                                                                              For more inspiration, infographics and
     Refashioned [2013]                            Clare Press                                   Greenpeace                                  ideas, check out our Pinterest boards
     https://www.laurenceking.com/us/product/      Wardrobe Crisis [2016]                        After the Binge The Hangover                www.pinterest.com/fashrevglobal
     refashioned/                                  https://www.skyhorsepublishing.com/search-    https://www.greenpeace.org/international/
                                                   results/?keyword=9781510723429                publication/6884/after-the-binge-the-       Fashion Revolution Blog
     Jonathan Chapman                                                                            hangover/                                   www.fashionrevolution.org/blog/
     Emotionally Durable Design [2005]             Lucy Siegle
     https://www.routledge.com/Emotionally-        To Die For: Is Fashion Wearing Out            Greenpeace
     Durable-Design-Objects-Experiences-and-       The World? [2011]                             Fashion at the Crossroads                   EVENTS
     Empathy/Chapman/p/book/9780415732154          www.harpercollins.co.uk/                      https://www.greenpeace.org/international/
                                                   titles/9780007264094/to-die-for-              publication/6969/fashion-at-the-            There are now Fashion Revolution teams in
     Elizabeth Cline                               lucy-siegle                                   crossroads/                                 over 100 countries and you can get involved
     Overdressed: The Shockingly High                                                                                                        by attending events in your area.
     Cost of Cheap Fashion [2012]                  Emily Spivack                                 TED                                         www.fashionrevolution.org/events
     www.overdressedthebook.com/author.html        Worn Stories [2014]                           Textile Toolbox
                                                   http://wornstories.com/                       http://www.textiletoolbox.com/              Follow your country’s Facebook and Twitter
     Kate Fletcher                                                                                                                           pages to stay in touch with what’s happening.
     Craft of Use: Post Growth Fashion [2016]      Clare Press                                   WRAP
     http://katefletcher.com/publications/books/   Rise and Resist [2018]                        Love Your Clothes
     craft-of-use-post-growth-fashion/             https://www.clarepress.com/book/              http://www.wrap.org.uk/content/love-your-
78                                                                                               clothes-waste-prevention                                                                    79
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