Fabrics and Weaves a Primer

Fabrics and Weaves ― a Primer

Those interested in hand embroidery are generally interested in fabrics. Knowing what fabric to
choose for a given embroidery technique makes the difference between failure and
accomplishment. Knowing how to purchase it can also mean saving money.

Many shops who cater to the needleworker will sell fabrics in small blocks. Some even sell by
the inch. Fabric comes in varying widths, from 32" to more than 100". In normal sewing, when
you purchase fabric, you purchase in increments of the yard. So, if you were purchasing a quarter
yard of fabric, and the width of the fabric was 42", you would be purchasing a piece of fabric
that is 9" long (down the selvage edge) by 42" wide. This is a handy way to measure when
making garments, tablecloths, draperies, but isn't much use for the embroiderer or quilter.

So, for needleworkers, a different way of measuring
has evolved. Many shops allow you to purchase
fabrics in fat quarters and fat halfs. Perfect sizes for
a variety of projects.

A fat quarter (illustrated at right) is one-half yard of
fabric cut lengthwise (note the selvage edge in
gray), then one-half the width of the fabric. So, for a
fabric that is 42" wide, you would end up with a
piece of fabric 21" wide x 18" long.

A fat half of the same fabric would be 21" wide x
36" long.

When contemplating a purchase for the size you
need, always ask the store how wide the fabric is
before ordering. For very small projects, you may
also wish to inquire whether they sell by the inch.
Do remember, however, to allow yourself extra for
lacing, raveling, and a suitable border (extra fabric)
around the design.

Most all embroidery that is counted - which covers a lot of techniques from delicate shadow
work on fine muslins, Dresden lace, pulled work, drawn thread, and cross stitch - is worked on a
plain weave.

Before we talk about weaves, however, let's
talk about how fabric is made in general terms.

On looms, long warp threads are first laid - top
to bottom in illustration at right.

Then weft threads are woven in with a shuttle        The warp (lengthwise) threads are the
from left to right and back again, over and over     strongest with very little, if any, stretch. Weft
along the length of the warp threads. These          threads are not as strong, and there can be
edges form what is known as the selvage -            some stretch, or play, when fabric is pulled
variously spelled salvage and selvedge. This         width-wise. For this reason, draperies, slacks,
edge doesn't ravel because of the loops formed.      skirts are normally cut with the length
Depending upon the weaving process, this             following the warp threads so that hems have
selvage can be cantankerous, in that it might be     less tendency to become wavey as the fabric
so tight it can distort the fabric when used in a    hangs for long periods.
seam; or, it can be smooth and similarly woven
as the balance of the cloth and can be useful in
sewing situations for a tiny seam to be strong
with no raveling.

Counted stitchers normally work on a fabric
that is called a plain weave. It is woven like the
illustration at right. Each thread is over one,
under one in both directions.

Plain weaves can also be even weaves, though
not necessarily. Even weave means that there
are the same number of weft threads per inch as
there are warp threads per inch. Plain weaves
can, for instance, 28 threads per inch, or higher
than 220 threads per inch.

                                   Even Weaves: Let's review

Plain weave means one thread over and under in both directions. By far, most fabrics
manufactured are plain weaves. The fiber used when it is woven, its quality and thickness, and
the finishing process determines the final appearance. Some are as shiny and gossamer as

imaginable, and others are thick and loosely woven. It is not the fiber which determines whether
or not it is a plain weave, it is the weaving process.

Even weave means the same number of threads per inch in both directions. As an example, a
twill weave can be an even weave.

Many different fibers lend themselves to more than one weaving process, whether plain, satin
(which includes the damask weave), twill (which includes the gaberdine weave), or velvet. Twill
weaves are highly varied, and in its simple form, can even be used effectively in counted
embroidery.

In the same manner, an even weave can be rayon, polyester, cotton, silk, wool, acrylic, linen or
mixtures of these and other fibers.

So, where does the term "evenweave" derive? It has come to be common vernacular in the
counted stitchers' vocabulary because of marketing identification by manufacturers. Before the
advent of all our lovely man-made fibers, the bulk of embroidery was worked upon cotton, silk,
wool and linen. When cross stitch became popular in the late 1970's, designers wanted different
backgrounds to highlight their designs. Linen and high-quality cotton can be expensive to
procure and process as well as difficult to produce in even weaves. So, manufacturers came up
with alternatives by using man-made fibers such as polyester and rayon, sometimes mixing them
with linen, silk, or cotton. When they began to market them to the general audience that loved to
cross stitch, they marketed them as "evenweaves" to differentiate them from linen and cotton to a
public that generally has had little exposure to sewing and fabric. But it has turned out to be
confusing terminology, because unaware embroiderers now say "linen or evenweave" as if they
were two separate entities, or that one might be better for a project than another. In fact, a rayon
even weave of 28-count is no different (except for look and feel and possibly longevity) than is a
linen or cotton even weave of 28-count.

               Weaves and Uses

A quick look at the illustration at right will also
illustrate that, because two different fabrics are
28-count, they may not have the same use. Both
fabrics are 5 threads in the same amount of
space. The blue fabric at left has larger (fatter)
ground threads making it more densely woven,
leaving little space between the threads. The
green fabric at right has finer ground threads
with lots more open space between the threads.
The green fabric would work up into a nice, airy
pulled work sample, the blue fabric lends itself
well to cross stitch, drawn thread and many
other types of embroidery.

Another type of even weave: Aida

Aida is also known as java cloth. It comes in
varying counts, from 6 to 20, depending upon
manufacturer.

Above and right is a rough graphic of the weaving process of aida. It falls under its own category
of weave, just as huck and velvet. The four threads which comprise the "group" of the weave are
tightly packed together, leaving small spaces in between. These spaces help the stitcher to more
easily see the spot that requires the needle to go in or out.

The difficulty with aida is that fractional stitches aren't accomplished with ease, and pulled work
is not often suitable on it. But aida is a great friend to the stitcher, from beginner to advanced. Its
texture lends itself well to the unstitched areas of a pattern. Aida comes in many qualities and
colors and it can be used in situations that plain, even weaves do not lend themselves. It is an
excellent substitute for huck and other fabrics where weaving (darning) patterns are desired.

There is also a 22-count fabric wherein the ground threads are grouped in pairs. It is a plain
weave and an even weave. It is similar to the waste canvas illustration below. This fabric is
known as Hardanger because of its ease in working this Norwegian embroidery.

Basket weave is also an even weave

The plain basket weave is also used whenever a gridded
design is required. This illustration shows a typical
basket weave, wherein 4 threads are woven
simultaneously over, then under 4 threads. Currently, a
common basket weave fabric used for darning (weaving)
patterns is called monks cloth, which was invented in the
late 1930's and principally used for curtains at that time.
The designs for Swedish weaving, also known as huck or
huckaback darning, are being used on this cloth. Huck is
a cloth similar to aida which has floats under which
fibers and ribbons are darned. Monks cloth does not have
floats.

Counted cross stitch embroidery can also be worked on
uncountable grounds, such as satin, complicated twills
and velvet - even knits. It requires, however, a type of
canvas cloth with a two-thread plain weave known as
waste canvas. Waste canvas is an even weave, heavily
starched, with large spaces between the two-thread
group. As shown, darker threads are woven every 5
groups to aid the stitcher in counting. These threads are
removed after the embroidery is finished.

There are many types of weaves that produce a variety of fabrics that enhance embroidery. The
trick is knowing what to use and when to use it. When it comes to even weaves, understand that
as it relates to fabrics, it simply means the same number of threads in both directions. Finally,
remember that the term "evenweave" is a marketing concept to designate fabrics generally sold
to the counted and cross stitch consumer that are of manmade fibers that may, or may not, be
truly an even weave. Like the term "cross stitch" needle, there is no such thing as evenweave
except in the minds of marketers.