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Franz Rivoira
EXTRACT
The Watch Manual
From 00:00 to watch-savvy
quickly and easily!
From the early steps of time measurement to the latest technical
evolutions of timekeeping, this easy and concise book will
become your guide. Complete with historical, technical and style
notes, The Watch Manual will lead you to know watches,
their fascinating history and how to buy, sell, and wear them.
Note
Thie is an extract from The Watch Manual, offering a few
sample chapters and extracts from the book so the would-be
readers can try before buying.
If you like what you read, you can buy the whole book from:
thewatchmanual.com
Index of the complete book
SECTION 1 - HISTORY OF WATCHMAKING
1.0 - Introduction and history..................................pag. 12
1.1 - Measuring time: the beginning........................pag. 15
1.2 - The evolution of time-keeping:
days, hours and the first clocks.........................pag. 19
1.3 - Peter Henlein and the invention
of the first portable clocks................................pag. 24
1.4 - The rise and fall of British watchmaking..........pag. 28
1.5 - Lépine and the revolution of calibers...............pag. 33
1.6 - The genius of Bréguet.......................................pag. 36
1.7 - Watches and serial production:
the rebels of watchmaking................................pag. 39
1.8 - Pocket watches go to the wrist.........................pag. 43
1.9 - Louis Cartier and the Santos...........................pag. 46
1.10 - The Bauhaus and Max Bill...............................pag. 49
1.11 - The Golden Age of horology............................pag. 52
1.12 - Gerald Genta ..................................................pag. 54
1.13 - The Quartz Crisis.............................................pag. 58
1.14 - The recovery of the watch market....................pag. 61
1.15 - Horology today: the trends..............................pag. 64
SECTION 2 - Technique: how watches work
2.0 - How watches work...........................................pag. 68
2.1 - How a mechanical watch works.......................pag. 70
2.1.1 - The mainspring and barrel............................pag. 73
2.1.2 - The jewels.....................................................pag. 78
2.1.3 - The escapement............................................pag. 82
2.1.4 - The balance wheel........................................pag. 86
2.1.5 - Shock-absorbing systems.............................pag. 90
2.1.6 - Winding: manual and automatic watches....pag. 94
2.2 - Electromechanical watches..............................pag. 99
2.3 - How a quartz watch works...............................pag. 103
2.4 - Modern evolution in watches...........................pag. 107
SECTION 3 - Watch elements
3.0 - Watch elements, techniques and definitions.....pag. 112
3.1 - Dials and hands................................................pag. 113
3.2 - Cases and materials..........................................pag. 120
3.3 - Watch crystals..................................................pag. 127
3.4 - Wristbands and bracelets..................................pag. 131
3.5 - Finishings and decorations...............................pag. 142
3.6 - Marks, brands, reference numbers....................pag. 146
3.7 - What does Swiss Made mean..........................pag. 154
SECTION 4 -Watch movements
4.0 - Movements and complications.........................pag. 158
4.1 - Pocket watches.................................................pag. 159
4.2 - Dress watches...................................................pag. 164
4.3 - Marriage watches.............................................pag. 167
4.4 - Chronometers..................................................pag. 171
4.5 - Diver watches...................................................pag. 175
4.6 - Antimagnetic watches......................................pag. 179
4.7 - Regulateurs.......................................................pag. 183
4.8 - Pilots watches and Fliegers..............................pag. 185
4.9 - Trench and military watches............................pag. 188
4.10 - Complicated watches.......................................pag. 191
4.10.1 - Calendars.....................................................pag. 195
4.10.2 - Chronographs..............................................pag. 201
4.10.3 - GMT and World timers..............................pag. 205
4.10.4 - Chime repeaters, sonneries
and alarm watches........................................pag. 208
4.10.5 - Tourbillons, carousels and open-hearts........pag. 211
4.10.6 - Automates and exotic complications............pag. 216
4.10.7 - Ultra-Thin watches.......................................pag. 220
4.10.8 - Skeletonized watches...................................pag. 223
SECTION 5 - Style and manners
5.0 - Style and manners: the Seven Phases...............pag. 228
5.1 - The great debate: fashion watches....................pag. 231
5.2 - Ladies’ watches.................................................pag. 234
5.3 - Watch etiquette................................................pag. 238
5.4 - Sizing a watch on the wrist..............................pag. 244
5.5 - Is a watch an investment?.................................pag. 247
5.6 - The aspiring collector.......................................pag. 252
5.7 - How to create a collection................................pag. 256
5.8 - The six-watch collection...................................pag. 260
5.9 - Ten watches you need to know.........................pag. 265
SECTION 6 - Buying. selling, servicing watches
6.0 - Knowing, buying and taking care of watches...pag. 275
6.1 - New watches and the waiting list.....................pag. 277
6.2 - Second-wrist, vintage and historical watches...pag. 281
6.3 - Haute horlogerie..............................................pag. 284
6.4 - The shady world:
homages, frankens and replicas.........................pag. 288
6.5 - Watch modding...............................................pag. 295
6.6 - Refurbishing a watch........................................pag. 300
6.7 - Servicing a watch.............................................pag. 308
6.8 - Buying and selling watches..............................pag. 314
6.8.1 - Dating the watch..........................................pag. 318
6.8.2 - Checking a broken watch:
the common problems..................................pag. 331
6.8.3 - The quick checklist of watch quality............pag. 337
6.8.4 - Buying a watch online..................................pag. 342
6.8.5 - Taking care of your watches.........................pag. 347
6.8.6 - Water resistance, dos and don’ts...................pag. 351
SECTION 7 - Making watches
7.0 - Modern watch manufacturing..........................pag. 355
7.1 - Creating a new brand:
the trends of the industry.................................pag. 357
7.2 - Watch manufacturing case histories.................pag. 363
7.3 - Crowdsourcing and its characteristics..............pag. 368
7.4 - The big events in horology...............................pag. 373
SECTION 8 - Icons of horology 8.0 - Icons of horology.............................................pag. 379 8.1 - People...............................................................pag. 381 8.2 - Brands..............................................................pag. 399 8.2.1 - Audemars Piguet..........................................pag. 400 8.2.2 - Baume Mercier.............................................pag. 402 8.2.3 - Bell & Ross..................................................pag. 404 8.2.4 - Blancpain.....................................................pag. 406 8.2.5 - Breguet.........................................................pag. 408 8.2.6 - Breitling.......................................................pag. 410 8.2.7 - Bulgari..........................................................pag. 412 8.2.8 - Bulova..........................................................pag. 414 8.2.9 - Cartier..........................................................pag. 416 8.2.10 - Casio............................................................pag. 418 8.2.11 - Certina.........................................................pag. 420 8.2.12 - Chopard.......................................................pag. 422 8.2.13 - Citizen.........................................................pag. 424 8.2.14 - Corum..........................................................pag. 426 8.2.15 - Doxa.............................................................pag. 428 8.2.16 - Ebel..............................................................pag. 430 8.2.17 - Eberhard......................................................pag. 432 8.2.18 - Edox.............................................................pag. 434 8.2.19 - Eterna..........................................................pag. 436 8.2.20 - Fortis............................................................pag. 438 8.2.21 - FP Journe.....................................................pag. 440 8.2.22 - Franck Muller..............................................pag. 442 8.2.23 - Frederique Constant....................................pag. 444 8.2.24 - Girard Perregaux..........................................pag. 446 8.2.25 - Glycine.........................................................pag. 448 8.2.26 - Hamilton......................................................pag. 450 8.2.27 - Hublot..........................................................pag. 452 8.2.28 - Invicta..........................................................pag. 454 8.2.29 - IWC.............................................................pag. 456 8.2.30 - Jaeger Le Coultre.........................................pag. 458 8.2.31 - Jaquet Droz..................................................pag. 460 8.2.32 - Lange & Sohne............................................pag. 462 8.2.33 - Longines......................................................pag. 464 8.2.34 - Louis Erard..................................................pag. 466 8.2.35 - Maurice Lacroix...........................................pag. 468
8.2.36 - Mido............................................................pag. 470 8.2.37 - Montblanc....................................................pag. 472 8.2.38 - Movado........................................................pag. 474 8.2.39 - Nomos..........................................................pag. 476 8.2.40 - Omega..........................................................pag. 478 8.2.41 - Orient..........................................................pag. 480 8.2.42 - Original Glashutte.......................................pag. 482 8.2.43 - Oris..............................................................pag. 482 8.2.44 - Panerai.........................................................pag. 486 8.2.45 - Patek Philippe..............................................pag. 488 8.2.46 - Piaget...........................................................pag. 490 8.2.47 - Rado.............................................................pag. 492 8.2.48 - Raymond Weil.............................................pag. 494 8.2.49 - Richard Mille...............................................pag. 496 8.2.50 - Roger Dubuis...............................................pag. 498 8.2.51 - Rolex............................................................pag. 500 8.2.52 - Seiko............................................................pag. 502 8.2.53 - Sinn..............................................................pag. 504 8.2.54 - Squale...........................................................pag. 506 8.2.55 - Swatch..........................................................pag. 508 8.2.56 - Tag Heuer....................................................pag. 510 8.2.57 - Tissot...........................................................pag. 512 8.2.58 - Tudor...........................................................pag. 514 8.2.59 - Ulysse Nardin...............................................pag. 516 8.2.60 - Universal Geneve.........................................pag. 518 8.2.61 - Vacheron Constantin...................................pag. 520 8.2.62 - Vulcain.........................................................pag. 522 8.2.63 - Wyler Vetta..................................................pag. 524 8.2.64 - Zenith..........................................................pag. 526 8.2.65 - Zodiac..........................................................pag. 528 SECTION 9 - Resources 9.0 - Practical resources............................................pag. 531 9.1 - Notes on watch servicing.................................pag. 533 9.2 - Tools and supplies............................................pag. 549 9.3 - References and bibliography.............................pag. 559 9.4 - Glossary...........................................................pag. 581 9.5 - Test: find your ideal watch................................pag. 607
Salle des pignons, IWC factory - iwc.com
1.7 - Watches and serial production:
the rebels of watchmaking
Horology spread throughout the world at the beginning of the 1800s. Still,
watches were quite costly. One of the main problems was that the escapement
used was still quite complicated to make.
The most diffused was the cylinder escapement, which was less complicated
and costly than the verge-fusee that we have already talked about. Still, it had
its drawbacks all the same.
The problem was with the escapement wheel. It was very tiny - and still, it had
a very complex shape, as the teeth at the end of each “arm” had to be placed
in an orthogonal position - that is, with an angle of 90°. You understand by
yourself that making such a complicated exploit of micro-mechanics was not a
small feat back then.
The result is predictable. And it is that the watches made with this kind of
escapement were still quite costly to make and to buy.
The alternative to the cylinder escapement was the lever escapement, which
was still costly. It used a two-pronged anchor, which had to be fitted with two
jewels so to ensure the best performance. And until the invention of synthetic
gemstones in 1902, these jewels were made of real gems, which had to be cut
appropriately for the task.
So, the escapement mechanism had
to be simplified more and made more
affordable and robust to render it
suitable for mass production.
This feat happened with an almost
forgotten watchmaker, who instead
Georges Frederic Roskopf - wikipedia.org
deserves a primary position in the
watchmaking Hall of Fame. Along
with Breguet and the others who
revolutionized the industry.
His name was Georges Frederic
Roskopf (1813-1889), the inventor
of the pin-lever escapement and the
so-called Proletarian Watch.
By splitting the function of the cyl-
inder escapement in two more simple
elements (an escapement wheel and
a pin-pallet), Roskopf rendered them
much easier to make and lowered the production costs of movements signifi-
cantly.
In 1860 Roskopf began to design such a watch, with just 57 parts instead of
the usual 160 parts or more.
This timepiece could be manufactured
industrially and could be sold for 20
francs (which was about two weeks
The pin-lever, detail - wikipedia.org
of wage of the average worker) while
remaining simple, robust, and of good
quality.
This radical approach was met by
hostility, as Roskopf and his democra-
tization of time-keeping were consid-
ered “dangerous” for the status quo.
Eventually, he managed to produce
his watches in 1867, using ebauches and cases from the Malleray Watch Co.,
and assembling them in Damprichard, Doubs, France, by M. Chatelain.
Roskopf watches were not fantastically accurate, but they were affordable, and
everybody could finally afford to buy one.
From 1867, when they were presented in the Universal Exhibition in Paris, the
Roskopf watches sold like crazy through Europe and the USA.
Eventually, pin-pallet watches helped bring down the cost of the high-end
timepieces as well, which had to be rendered more affordable through the re-
finement of the so-called Swiss anchor escapement: the one we still use today.
The history of Roskopf and his Proletarian Watch matches with another very
particular one: the story of an American in Switzerland, who founded a com-
pany known as International Watch
Company in 1868. He was an Ameri-
Florentine Ariosto Jones - iwc.com
can engineer and watchmaker called
Florentine Ariosto Jones.
And yes, we are talking about the
present-day IWC.
He aimed to combine the Swiss
watchmaking excellence with the
modern techniques of mass-produc-
tion, and to export the final products to the USA, which was a vast market
which highly regarded the quality of Swiss watches. It was the beginning of
the great industrial boom that would take the USA to become a world leader
for 150 years. And the booming internal market of the USA offered lots of
possibilities for the most adventurous and bold manufacturers.
The plan of Jones was spot-on. Back then, Switzerland was a rather poor coun-
try. People carried out their watch-related activities in rather small, family-run
labs, and still had little idea about how to industrialize their skills.
Jones’ plan of opening a modern factory in the traditional watchmaking area
was revolutionary. So much that it raised the firm opposition of the French-
speaking community who lived in the cradle of Swiss horology, the French-
speaking region around Le Locle. This was the reason why he would selectIllustration of the IWC factory - iwc.com another place for his dream to come true: Schaffhausen, in the German part of the country. Finally, in 1875, a modern factory was built - a 45-meter long edifice that could accommodate 300 workers under one roof. Jones introduced the American mass-production concept, defined as the “sequential series of operations carried out on successive special-purpose ma- chines that produced interchangeable parts.” We need to make it clear that he did not invent this system by himself: Jones - then a young man - went to work for one of the best watchmaking firms in America, E. Howard & Co. He eventually rose to the rank of the superintend- ent of the factory. Still, in 1867 he applied for a passport, and he traveled to Europe, looking for a place to establish a watchmaking business, utilizing the so-called “American System” of watchmaking that he had learned profession- ally when in the USA. This system derived from the manufacturing methods developed for the Fed- eral armories at Springfield and Harpers Ferry. And the aim was quite similar: high precision, interchangeable parts were needed for assembling weapons – something that made the system perfect for watchmaking. Jones was more an innovator than a manager: he had to sell his company in two years. Still, his contribution was fundamental to launch a business model that would render Switzerland the powerhouse of watchmaking that it is today.
The jewels in an Omega 321 caliber - wikipedia.org
2.1.2 - The jewels
When we hear about mechanical watches, we often read about that term like
“jewels” or “rubies,” and we often fantasize about the hidden riches inside our
watches. There are some fiction stories also related to thieves stealing the jewels
of a watch!
Well, the term “ruby” or “jewel” is used to refer to tiny artificial stones (jewel
bearings) that are set inside the watch. They are shaped like a torus, are hu-
man-made, and I must add, practically worthless - sorry for shattering your
dreams of becoming rich in this way.
If you examine a watch movement, you can notice that these rubies are set
in particular places (so, they are not
ornamental, even if they do have a
definite decor effect).
Drawing of a normal jewel - wikipedia.org
They are usually set in pairs (one
above and one below) in correspon-
dence of the pivots of the gears, and
they are generally drilled through
with a tiny hole.
You can see it here (it’s a cross-sec-
tion), on the right, what happens.
The pivots of the gears are set precisely through these stones, one up, one down, so they can rotate freely. And why using jewels instead of plain metal bearings? (mind you, lots of watches use bearings too - especially lower-cost mechanical watches and quartz mechanisms). The answer is, because of attrition. A jewel is harder, even if more brittle than its metal counterpart, so the steel pivot rotates inside it more effortlessly and with less grinding on it than it would in a bearing made of metal (usually, brass). The static coefficient of fric- tion of brass-on-steel is 0.35, while that of sapphire-on-steel is 0.10–0.15, so three times less. It means a smoother and better transmission of movement, less attrition, and extended durability of the watch without constant maintenance. As you can easily imagine, setting a jewel inside a micro-mechanics element like a bridge of a watch is a complicated issue. This means that jewel setting was reserved for higher-quality (and higher cost) watches. Jewel bearings were introduced in watches by Nicolas Fatio (or Facio) de Duil- lier and Pierre and Jacob Debaufre around 1702. Still, they did not become widely used as they were very costly. The first jewels were, indeed, shards of real gemstones. Watches often mounted garnet, quartz, or even glass; only the top quality ones mounted sapphire, ruby, or diamond jewels. In 1902, everything changed, because Auguste Verneuil developed a chemi- cal process to create synthetic jewels. Hence, they became quite cheaper and gained widespread use in watchmaking. Jewels in modern watches are gener- ally rubies or corundum, one of the hardest substances known (apart from diamond). So, modern watches tend to use jewels on every part that is subject to constant grinding of metal against metal. This includes the pivots of the wheels of a typical wind-up watch (wheel train, escapement wheel, balance wheel), as well as two other critical elements: the pallet fork endings and the single impulse jewel in the center of the balance wheel.
Along the more ordinary torus-
shaped jewels housing the pinions of
the wheel train wheels, we also have
Drawing of a normal plus cap jewel - wikipedia.org
some unique jewels called capstones.
These jewels are used in wheels where
friction is critical, as the balance
wheel pinions. They are set so to
prevent the shaft of the wheel from
touching the surface of the jewel, and
also, to create a space called “oil cup”
which helps to lubricate the mecha-
nism better.
More often than not, these capstones
are held in place with shock-resisting mechanisms, such as the Incabloc (which
we’ll see in another chapter).
Before the introduction of shock-resisting systems (around 1932), the best
wind-up mechanical movements without complications mounted 15 jewels.
After that, the jewels rose to 17.
Automatic and complicated move-
ments usually mount more jewels.
Detail of a Laurent-Ferrier movement, with 23 jewels - laurentferrier.ch
From their introduction, watch man-
ufacturers defined the quality of the
movements using terms such as “XX
Jewels,” where XX was the number of
jewels mounted into the watch.
This term diffused itself in product
descriptions, becoming a natural
equivalence to the public of “more
jewels, more quality.”
So much that some companies, be-
tween which Waltham and
Orient, launched on the market
watches featuring 100 jewels movements. These movements used aesthetically-placed jewels, which had no func-
tion whatsoever, except to let the manufacturer say that there were 100 jewels
Detail of an Orient 100-jewels movement - orient-watches.com
inside the watch.
This example is a practical effect of the fascination that a name like “jewel” can
have on someone who does not know the functional aspects of jewels inside a
watch.
We should note that this practice, which was deceiving for the customers, was
first condemned, and then prohibited.
Today, a manufacturer cannot place jewels inside a movement that have no
practical purpose. If it does, he cannot refer to them in its communication.Patek Philippe Calatrava movement - patek.com
3.5 - Finishings and decorations
While we know that complications in a watch make the most of its value - and
price, let’s not forget the other quality that renders luxury watches genuinely
precious. And this is the presence of finishings and decorations, both in the
movement and its case.
And we are not talking of the presence of precious metals and gems in their
making, but about the human craftsmanship that has been poured into making
that particular element, beautiful.
As strange as it may sound, luxury timepieces offer precisely this. Every ele-
ment and component of their structure, both the case and the movement, is
not just built: it is often polished, carved, decorated somehow. Even where you
cannot see. Even on the surfaces that are not exposed.
This refinement is an activity that stays in a middle realm between the func-
tional and the decorative aspect.
More often than not, these tiny elements inside a watch are milled, polished,
and decorated, so to be exceptional in every way when you happen to look at
them.
Initially, these processes, which were entirely made by hand, had a practi-
cal purpose, apart from the aesthetic aspect. Watches have always had a huge
issue: that is, the effects of dust inside the movements, as cases were not dust
and waterproof in the beginnings.Dust tended to accumulate in recess-
Cotes de Geneve stripes on a Vacheron Constantin caliber - vacheron-constantin.com
es: so, clogging up the moving parts,
especially the pivots of the wheels,
and affecting timekeeping.
So, watchmakers started to create tex-
tured surfaces on the metal surfaces
of movements, so to “trap” the dust
in excess by making it deposit itself
there, and not in the moving parts of
the movement.
There are two main finishings of this
kind.
The first is called “Cotes de Geneve” (stripes of Geneva). It looks like a series
of satin stripes practiced over select
areas of the movement, mostly, non-
Perlage on an Eberhard Traversetolo caliber - eberhard-co-watches.ch
moving parts, like bridges.
The second is called “Perlage” (pearl-
ing), and also known as circular-
graining or stippling.
It consists of applying a pattern of
overlapping small circles with a rotat-
ing abrasive tool.
While the Cotes de Geneve finishing
can be automatized, the perlage can-
not, especially in the most intricate
details, so it requires manual interven-
tion. More often than not, a single movement is decorated with both patterns
in separate areas.
A second finishing, which cannot be totally automatized, is the so-called
“anglage” (angling), also called chamfering.
In anglage, the edges of an element are filed with a 45° angle between the two
orthogonal sides. The resulting surface is generally polished differently (it isshiny), and there is a very sharp edge
Perfect anglage on an Audemars Piguet bridge - audemarspiguet.com
on the corners between the surfaces.
This edge and the polishing cannot
be obtained with purely CNC-driven
means, so anglage is mostly hand-
made, or better, hand-finished.
Black polish is not a decoration, but
a way of polishing a surface. When
a surface is planar and perfectly
smooth, light reflects over it, giving a
black effect, with the chamfered sides
Effects of black polish, Philippe Dufour - monochrome-watches.com
instead shining bright.
Black polish is made by hand by
scrubbing the surface with special
diamond pastes, more coarse at the
beginning, and progressively thinner
at each passage.
As you can understand, it is incredibly time-consuming.
As a final note, sometimes sur-
faces are also engraved, and the best
engraving is handmade. Usually, the
Lange’s famous blue screws - alange-soehne.com
brand of the watch is inscribed on the
movement, with some other writings
and seals. Other times, bridges and
other elements are engraved with dec-
orations in bas-relief, making them
almost a work-of-art.
More often than not, the writings are
also filled with a particular colored
resin.Another critical aspect of decorations in movements is the presence of screws,
which are of a different color than other elements. This happens because tradi-
Blancpain Villeret Squelette movement - blancpain.com
tionally, screws were tempered at a high temperature so to render them harder.
The different temperatures used in tempering gave them a different color,
one of the hardest being a bright blue. This is the reason why in some luxury
watches you see screws of a blue color.
Even if today the blueing can be done through a chemical reaction, high-end
manufacturers still use the traditional thermal blueing of screws.
Now consider applying these techniques and finishes to every one of the
mechanical pieces composing the 300 of a typical complicated watch (that is,
a watch featuring different exotic functions). And we mean the inside of the
movement, as well as the outside.
Because cases, bezels, and backs are often polished with different finishes,
shiny and satin, and this work cannot be done entirely automatically.
While in some other cases, they are engraved by hand, or set with precious ele-
ments like gemstones.Blancpain Fifty Fathoms - blancpain.com
4.5 - Diver watches
Diver watches are a very modern obsession, starting in the Fifties with the
launch of the Submariner by Rolex and the Fifty Fathoms by Blancpain.
But the waterproof watch, which today is known as water-resistant, is the
modern heir of another kind of timepiece, which was much acclaimed at the
beginning of the century: the dust-proof watch.
People noted that watches subject to extremes in climate, that is, tempera-
ture, humidity, and the like, began to behave erratically. Dust was one of the
main culprits. It entered into the movements and tended to accumulate in the
recesses, namely the settings of the jewels where the pinions of the wheels
turned, effectively slowing them down by building friction.
We should also note that watch oils used back then were organically-based,
subject to natural decay, and gooing. Water had similar issues because it instead
provoked the formation of rust inside watch movements.
The first experiments to get rid of dust and water were pretty rudimental, as it
was quite challenging to seal away the movement, creating a complete dust-
proof and waterproof case. The first companies which tried to eliminate these
issues were Rolex and Omega.
Rolex was the first to refine a waterproof case in 1926, patented under the
name of Oyster.
Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, presented it with these words: “The oyster isa ‘model’ hostess and will not toler-
ate any dust or other impurities. [...]
Well, gentlemen, we have borrowed
its qualities and its name. Here is an
example of the Rolex Oyster, so-
The first Rolex Oyster - thejewelleryeditor.com
called because it lives in water and
excludes all impurities”.
To reassure the public about the
qualities of its watch, Rolex, in 1927,
contacted an English swimmer,
Mercedes Gleitze, and supported her
attempt to cross the English Channel
by swimming.
The lady had a new Rolex Oyster
hanging around her neck, and made it
to the other side of the Channel, with
Mercedes Gleitze - rolex.com
the watch correctly working.
The first Oyster featured the elements
that would render it famous, like the
screw-in bezel and back, with the
two o-rings and the screw-in crown.
The automatic movement, essential
to guarantee that the crown remained
waterproof, debuted a few years later,
Omega Marine - omegawatches.com
in 1931.
Omega instead followed another
path: in 1932, it created and patented
a double sliding rectangular case,
known as “Marine.”
To ensure water resistance, its crownwas kept inside the double case.
This watch was tested and certified by
the Swiss Laboratory for Horology in
Neuchâtel to withstand a pressure of
135 meters.
A re-edition of the Panerai Radiomir - panerai.com
In 1936, another famous diver watch
appeared: it was the Panerai Radi-
omir, made by the Italian Maison
expressly for the needs of the Italian
Navy, to equip its force of frogmen.
This watch, however, was originally
manufactured by Rolex and rebranded
by Panerai. The Radiomir saw exten-
sive use during WWII, demonstrating
its qualities in the field.
With the end of the war and the dif-
fusion of leisure scuba diving, diver
watches started their expansion as
reliable tools for divers. One of the
first models available for public use
was the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms,
launched in France in 1953, which
The first Rolex Submariner - thejewelleryeditor.com
was worn by the underwater explorer
Jacques Cousteau during his award-
winning documentary “The silent
world” of 1956.
The Fifty Fathom (its name de-
rives from a nautical measurement
of around 1.9 meters, indicating
its maximum water resistance) was
created at the request of the French
Navy. A specific note was that the
watch should have a system to show
the remaining immersion time left,giving birth to the now typical
rotating bezel.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional - omegawatches.com
Rolex, which was working on
the same concept, launched
its model, the quintessential
Submariner in 1954, at the Basel
Watch Fair.
The model surged to glory when
it was used by the most famous
fictional secret agent of all time,
James Bond, in 1962.
From this appearance of the ref.
6538, the Rolex Submariner
skyrocketed to glory, bringing
the whole brand with it and becoming the style icon that we know today.
The first diver watches were certified water-resistant to 100 meters, like the
Fifty Fathoms. Still, technical advancement brought this limit much forward,
with many reaching 500 meters and more, down to the present record of the
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional, which has safely
reached a depth of 10,928 meters.
One of the other devices used to guarantee the watch worked at high depths
was the helium escape valve, so to prevent the watch crystal from being blown
off by internal pressure caused by helium.
The use of diver watches today to monitor safe diving has been superseded by
diving computers. However, a diver watch is a testament to the more heroic
times of undersea exploration - and it looks perfect as well at the wrist.Sizing a watch is fundamental - piqsels.com
5.4 - Sizing a watch on the wrist
The perfect size of a wristwatch has always been a controversial issue, and
more, subject to the fashion trends.
If we do a brief historical search, we discover that the first wristwatches were
very different from the ones that are popular today. Not only for the shape, as
most of them were square or rectangular, but also for the dimensions, as they
were much smaller. The average diameter was 30-32 mm: this was considered
the best size for the gentleman. Ladies’ watches were smaller than this - a sort
of miracle in manufacturing.
However, there was also a distinct trend on “oversize” watches. Some of them
were a sort of tool watches, that is, not to be used formally. And this situation
continued well into the 1970s
when everything changed when
someone like Gerald Genta
launched the first Royal Oak
Old Bulova advertising - intlwatchleague.com
“Jumbo” watch, with its sizable
(for the time) dimensions of
39 mm. From then, sizes have
continued to grow, reaching the
modern-day hysteria of satellite
dishes of over 50 mm.
Luckily, both for aestheticsand for the health of our wrists, this
t6rend is cooling down, and watches
are getting back to a wearable dimen-
sion of around 40 mm.
But saying 40 mm is only half of the
story. That is, it does not consider the
Sizing your wrist with a digital caliber
effects of the lugs, which are instead
extremely important to understand if
a watch fits well on your wrist.
We have seen articles about using
formulas to calculate the best fit based
on the circumference of the wrist.
And we respectfully suggest another
way. Take a caliber, and measure the
width of your wrist while resting it
against the desktop surface. Let’s sup-
pose it is 58 mm.
Then, the golden rule is that the watch, complete of the lugs, has to fit inside
those 58 mm. If it goes over them, then it is a no-no.
Aiming for this visual effect is the only way of accurately establishing if a
watch “fits” on your wrist. It would be best if you aimed for a balanced result.
The more it comes close to that measurement, the better it looks.
So, the true question is not
This Lange is excellent, but too big for this wrist - watchprosite.com
about the watch diameter (or
better, not only, ) but mostly
about the dimensions and shape
of the lugs.
More, it also implies that you
should try the watch on the
wrist, because it has to fit you,
just like a suit. If it looks too big
or too small, it is not the rightwatch for you, and you should
find something else to get on
A small watch on a wristlet looks great - vintagewatchstraps.com
your wrist.
Far too many times, people are
wearing humongous watches
that look awkward on their
wrists (like many Panerai or
Richard Mille) - or too small
for them.
If the watch is too small, the
best advice would be to buy and
wear a watch that complements nicely to your wrist. So, do not buy a watch
that looks like it comes from your big brother. It would not render you a good
service, even if you like it. It is not right for you.
Search for another model or size, which fits you better. To return to the King
of Size, Panerai, the Maison has released some “Baby Panerai” in 38 mm.
Maybe you should consider them, and not the bigger references.
Remember also that getting a bigger watch, apart from the visual effect, be-
comes dangerous for the watch itself. The bigger it gets, the more awkward it
becomes to move it around without hitting something and scratching the case
or the glass.
If the watch looks small, maybe a bit too small, there are ways to make it visu-
ally bigger. For example, using a large, elaborate wristband that covers the wrist
and shows the face of the watch as it happened with the first wristlets could be
a fitting solution for it.
But also, remember that in this case, smaller is better, especially if it is a vin-
tage timepiece. Vintage watches get a free pass, almost always, as the passion
for vintage horology is well-known and accepted by the people who are into
watches. Be sure your watch looks its part and that you know something about
the timepiece you are wearing since doing this you would stand out, and attire
more attention than the usual.The details of a Roger Smith watch - monochrome-watches.com
6.2 - Haute horlogerie
When you are interested in horology, you often hear this term. What is, really, “haute
horlogerie?”
The best way to describe it is through a similitude.
The modern fashion industry started at the beginning of the 1900s with the first
Maisons making their collections. Back then, they were like bespoke tailors - in the
best sense of the word - stitching a dress literally on the figure of their clients. This
process is known as “haute couture”.
But later, as the market expanded, and more people came into affluence and wanted
a garment made by
them, they invented the
concept of the “pret-
a-porter”. Which were
FP Journe Chronometre Souverain by D Deprez
ready-to-wear clothes
made to fit a particular
size.
While most of them
expanded into pret-a-
porter, that is, ready-to-
wear clothes, the original
haute couture still
remained - and remains.Haute horlogerie is the haute
couture of watches.
When you rise high enough
and enter into the lofty realms
A Kari Voutilainen 28 TI watch - gphg.org
of haute horlogerie, a company
like Patek Philippe becomes just
one of the competing brands.
And for sure, not the all-around
champ that it is in the ready-to-
wear timepieces.
A company like Patek Philippe
today manufactures around
50,000 timepieces per year,
which is a very respectable output. But what happens when this number becomes
5,000 - or even 500?
That the exclusivity, quality, and refinement rise exponentially.
Patek Philippe, as excellent as it is, is an industry. And there are still artisans making
watches by hand, or in very, very limited quantities. You have to wait years to get one
of their watches if you order one (and do not get turned down). These artisans have
names that are well-known and respected in the area of haute horlogerie.
Among the others, FP
Journe, Kari Vouti-
lainen, Rexhep Rexhepi,
The Gronefeld Remontoire blue dial - professionalwatches.com
Philippe Dufour, the
McGonigle broth-
ers, Christophe Claret,
Roger Smith, Tim and
Bart Gronefeld… and
there are many others.
These watchmakers
sometimes do not even
make 500 watches peryear. Nor 50.
An Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain by Rexhep Rexhepi - acollectedman.com
They make maybe 25.
They are 20 times more ex-
clusive to the average Patek
Philippe. And a Patek Philippe
is 20 times more exclusive
than the typical Rolex if we
make a comparison between
them. Summing it up together,
it means that for one haute
horlogerie timepiece, there are
around 50,000 Rolex - about all
of the average yearly production
of Patek Philippe.
There is an anecdote to let you understand a bit about this elusive realm. When the
young Roger Smith frequented his first course in watchmaking, he met the legen-
dary George Daniels, the inventor of the coaxial escapement, one of the greatest
achievements of modern horology.
Smith followed the instructions of Daniel’s book, “Watchmaking,” and he made
a pocket watch in his spare time. Then he went to Daniels to show him. Daniels
looked at it and said that he had to start again, as the watch looked “handmade” and
not “created.”
Smith spent the next five years perfecting the thirty-two skills required to design
and make a watch as expressed in “The Daniels Method”. And then, he returned to
Daniels to show his result. Finally, he obtained his approval, and an invitation to go
to work with him in his workshop in the Isle of Man.
Upon his death in 2011, Daniels left his entire workshop to Smith. He noted upon
receiving it:
“George’s whole studio was geared towards the singular goal of one man being able to
design and make a watch from start to finish”.
In Daniels’ studio, there were (and are) still machinery from the 1800s, used to makewatches by hand. Pos-
sibly his most precious
legacy.
A Roger Smith Series 2 - deployant.com
This is what haute horlo-
gerie is.
Like the big fashion
houses, Patek Philippe
sells mostly pret-a-porter
models, like the Cala-
trava and the Nautilus.
But there is also, inside
its same company struc-
ture, a haute-couture
branch: the top models made exclusively by hand in few units per year.
Most luxury brands of horology still offer this exclusive service. However, it is mostly
veiled from the casual glances of the onlookers who only see the most affordable and
visible results of the production. The real beauty is more sheltered.
The small workshops, the best artisans, do not need to sell. They are like bespoke
tailors and create a watch exclusively for you and a few others. Maybe the model is
similar, but it will have some little difference from another, as each one is truly hand-
crafted.
If we want to get very practical, and this would not render true justice to Mr. Smith
and watchmakers like him, you might buy an “entry-level” watch of his making, the
so-called Series 2, for $150,000 (if you can find one, of course). You can buy the
most affordable Patek Philippe Calatrava for around $10,000.Watch elements - ticktickticktick.com
7.2 - Watch manufacturing
case histories
Recent developments in crowdfunding platforms have given the budding
watchmakers the possibility of launching collections even before having
invested in them, so they are quite handy to develop win-win plans. I mean,
you make a good-looking watch, secure some suppliers, launch it and become
famous, right?
If this was what happened a few years ago, and still does in some instances, it
does not mean that the result is going to be good.
So, what is the difference between a half-baked idea and a full-fledged watch
brand?
The attention to detail and the careful research for a specific niche of the mar-
ket makes this difference.
These are the two universal elements that transform an idea into a success.
While there are evident case histories about brands which instead offer very
different models, and have an undeniable, huge success worldwide, we are
instead focusing on what is getting constant attention from the vertical market
of horology fans and has reached peaks of excellence in the watchmaking field.MING watches
The Ming 17-06, winner of the GPHG prize - ming.watch
MING is a very interesting
company. It is based in Malay-
sia but has been formed by six
watch enthusiasts from around
the world. It gravitates around
the figure of its leader, Ming
Thein, a photographer, de-
signer, business strategist, and
above all, a lover of watches.
The background of the six
founders collects more than 80 years of experience in exquisite timepieces. So,
the MING watches are made by watch lovers to watch lovers
The goal of MING is, taken straight from their website, “to bring back a sense
of excitement and discovery through watches that show considered delib-
eration and refinement in every detail while punching far above their price
point. We neither pretend to have history, nor are we burdened by it; we make
watches as we see fit and would want to have in our own collections”.
In a way, MING watches are a 2020 edition of an etablisseur, which is driven
by the research of beauty in timepieces rather than merely a commercial calcu-
lation.
All of MING timepieces are limited A set of Ming watches, ready to be fitted with wristbands - ming.watch
editions, which are assembled, regu-
lated, and tested in Switzerland, with
final quality control done in Malaysia.
The attention to detail is what strikes
from the MING experience. Not
only are the pieces superbly designed,
and featuring a “house style,” which
renders them unique and distinctive:
every element of them is made by the
best suppliers, like ManufactureSchwarz Etienne, for the movements and Jean Rousseau Paris for the wrist-
bands.
The watch experts quickly noticed this attention and dedication to their trade.
So much that the company has received an award in the 2019 edition of the
GPHG (Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève) in the Best Horological Rev-
elation category. Not bad at all for a company that was founded in 2017.
Vortic watches
A view of a Vortic-mounted movement - vorticwatches.com
For far too long, the American
tradition in watch manufac-
turing has been forgotten in
favor of the sheer force of
numbers.
American companies had an
impressive history of achieve-
ments in watchmaking, which,
unfortunately, for a reason or
another, fizzled into nothing-
ness. Little is left of the awesomely-made movements beating inside the old
Elgin and Waltham pocket watches. Most of them were discarded as scrap
metal when their cases in precious gold were melted for cash.
And a company called Vortic saw
the opportunity and the market and The Vortic Military is a new launch by the company - vorticwatches.com
stepped (rightly) in. It made it by
recovering these beautiful old move-
ments, and refitting them into new
cases, creating watches that show the
amazing level of craft achieved in the
US from the 1850s onwards, which
rivaled with the best Swiss produc-
tion.
Vortic takes old movements from dis-
carded pocket watches, and “upcycles”them, refitting them into new cases and proposing them as extremely fashion-
able wristwatches.
The company offers the option of creating these marriage watches via an
online configurator. So you can choose how to make your watch from several
components, and include the movement of your choice, perfectly serviced and
polished, so to create a modern timepiece with a steampunk-ish mood.
They also offer the option of refitting an old movement that you already have
into a new watch of your liking.
And last but not least, their prices are, if not low, very affordable.
The thought of recovering amazing watches that are full of history comes from
a very modern, “upcycling”
mentality that makes these
LIV watches, looking sporty and sturdy - watchesyoucanafford.com
watches extremely appealing.
To revive and restore the old
traditions and give them a
new shape and scope is both
respectful and innovative and
renders Vortic a company to
be well-aware of.
LIV watches
LIV is a microbrand based in
Miami, FL, which is doing the crowdfunding thing “right.”
They offer both mechanical and quartz-based watches at affordable prices -
and more, these watches have a consistent style. They are not just assembled.
They are designed.
The LIV style is definitely sporty, and geared towards the casual use (a “life of
adventure” as they say) - but it seems that the two founders have a clear image
of what their customers want.
The movements are Swiss-made, from Ronda and Sellita, and the assembly of
each production run - which is in limited edition - is made in Switzerland aswell. The company also offers some
nice personalization options, with dif-
ferent colors and styles.
The LIV GX automatic diver - livwatches.com
But aside from this, LIV takes pride
in its unique relationship with its
clients.
They claim to stay behind and sup-
port every watch they make entirely.
And reading from the internet, we
have no motivation to doubt about
that.
The combination was just right, as the
first project they presented for the GX1 Swiss Chrono reached its funding goal
in only 11 hours on Kickstarter.
From this first timepiece, the company has launched many others in the
same way, that is, through Kickstarter campaigns. The last campaign, “Break-
through”, introduced four new models, from pilots to diver watches, and the
activity of the company is building a regular fan base that appreciates the qual-
ity and design of its timepieces.All photos - audemarspiguet.com
8.2.1 - Audemars Piguet
The iconic Maison, one of the few
still independent Swiss watchmakers,
was founded by Jules Louis Audemars
Audemars Piguet Code 11:59
and Edward Auguste Piguet in 1875.
However, it took the legacy of the
company set up by Jean Louis Ben-
jamin Audemars in 1811.
Initially, Audemars followed the
technical side of the company, while
Piguet the commercial activities. They
specialized in high-end, complicated movements, which they manufactured
under their name and also sold to other companies.
In 1889 they presented at the World
Expo in Paris a “grand complicated”
watch, featuring multiple complica-
tions (perpetual calendar, minute
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
repeater, and chronograph), and in
1892 they present the world’s smallest
minute repeater watch.
At the death of the founders, in the
Twenties, the company continued topursue the most complicated techni-
cal feats relentlessly, with an innova-
tive vision that defies the established
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars
rules. This creative spirit has earned
Audemars Piguet the appellative of
“Young Prince” in the so-called Holy
Trinity of Swiss watchmaking.
This spirit was very much alive when
the company commissioned the
renowned designer Gerald Genta the
first luxury sports watch, in 1972: the Royal Oak.
The launch of this timepiece (which defied all the established canons of haute
horlogerie, and was subject to severe criticism) marked a turning point in
watches. It authorized the use of the ordinary stainless steel in luxury time-
pieces.
Still today, the company continues in
its drive to break the rules. In 2019,
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chrono
it launched a new line, called Code
11:59, which represents a sort of mid-
dle ground between the sporty luxury
of the Royal Oak and Royal Oak
Offshore and the classic elegance of
the Jukes Audemars line.
The Code 11:59 line features a com-
plex case, elegant complications and
smaller dimensions of 41 mm, and is touted as a unisex watch. Like the Royal
Oak before it, its introduction has raised lots of controversy in the business:
but Audemars Piguet is used to this.
Among its most notable feats, Audemars Piguet holds a participation in Rich-
ard Mille and a majority stake in the high-end manufacturer, Audemars Piguet
Renaud et Papi.
www.audemarspiguet.comWatch tools - strapcode.com
9.2 - Tools and supplies
To properly equip yourself for the watch-related activities you wish to perform,
from the most simple to the most complicated, you need to buy yourself a set
of specific tools, which range from the affordable to the very costly.
However, the good news is that the equipment needed depends exclusively on
the operations you want to perform. If you don’t want to become a full-fledged
watchmaker, limited interventions mean few basic tools.
There is a cardinal rule; however: the quality of the tools you employ deter-
mines the outcome of your work.
Avoid all the offers and the lures of cheap toolsets that you find online - they
are mostly money going down the drain.
If you want to be a professional, then you need the tools that professionals use.
And while there are many reliable manufacturers making tools for the profes-
sionals, the two best-known companies you can concentrate on are Bergeon
and Horotec.
They are among the most diffused and make quality tools.
As a result, they are costly.
But this fact, in a way, is good, since it will make you plan what tools you want
to buy, and proceed step by step.To begin with, watch operations, you won’t need that many tools initially - if
you continue to develop your passion, you will need a more complex and costly
toolset, but it will come way later in your activity.
1 - Set of loupes
That is, the typical watchmaker’s monocles, with varying magnifications. The
most typical are 5X, 7.5X, and 10X. A loupe holder could also be useful, but
not necessary if you don’t plan on wearing a loupe for extended periods.
2 - Springbar tool.
It is the tool used to remove the springbars from the lugs. It is a sort of small
metal lever with two prongs that you place on the two sides of where the
springbar goes into the holes in the lug.
3 - Pop-in back opener.
The Swiss Army knife for watchmakers - esslinger.com
It looks like a surgical knife with a
short steel blade, but it is not sharp, so
it does not cut.
4 - Screw-in back opener.
There are several variations of this
tool, from the economical two-prongs
one to the costlier three-prongs tool
with a set of different points, which
can be changed to suit precisely the shape of the recesses on the back of your
watch.
There is also another type of back opener: a silicon ball, which should adhere
to the back of the watch and could be turned to open it without having to use
a metal tool. While the concept is good, in practice, it seldom works.
5 - Swiss Army knife.
The one with the most typical functions is ok, while there is also a specific edi-
tion featuring watchmaker’s tools. If you have even a regular one, especiallywhen you are outside your watch
lab, it could become very handy to
Screwdriver set with base - esslinger.com
perform some basic tasks, like helping
you to open pop-in cases when in a
flea market and such.
6 - Screwdriver set
A set of high-end antimagnetic
screwdrivers is essential to perform
different operations on watches. So,
be sure to buy a set of good ones. They come in varying sizes - a good assort-
ment could come from four to six. They usually have a color band, so to distin-
guish between them and pick the right one easily.
More often than not, screwdriver sets come with a handy rotating base, which
is used to support them.
7 - Sharpening stone
Carborundum sharpening stone - esslinger.com
To sharpen screwdrivers and other
tools, you need to buy a sharpening
stone. It is a stone made of carborun-
dum, and you use it to sharpen the
heads of screwdrivers, chisels, tweez-
ers and such.
If you want to obtain perfect angles
on the tools, you might also buy a
sharpening tool holder.
8 - Tweezers set
High-end antimagnetic tweezers are
Tweezer set - esslinger.com
essential to place, hold, and remove
elements reliably.
You need at least two tweezers, but
you might profit from more, especially
the ones with different beak shapes
(curved, flat, etc.).You can also read
