ENDURING BEAUTY A journey into the fascinating realm of diamonds - Gübelin
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ENDURING BEAUTY A journey into the fascinating realm of diamonds Stitch by stitch How a marvel of silk and tulle is created The quest for knowledge Supported by the Dr. Eduard Gübelin Research Scholarship Perfect match Celebrate special occasions with radiant jewellery and iconic timepieces
T H E M A R K O F A CA P TA I N .
When explorers roamed the oceans, the torpilleur was the
captain’s watch – a pocket chronometer which was the mark
of his rank both onshore and off. Today’s urban explorers prefer
to captain their own destiny. For them, we present our new
Torpilleur: at once casual, elegant and resolutely modern.
Quality without compromise.
Marine Torpilleur
60 hours power reserve. Self-winding manufacture. Silicium technology.
ulysse-nardin.com
IN THIS ISSUE
16
50 On the cover
Hallmarks Gübelin Jewellery, platinum ring with an
of excellence Asscher-cut diamond, 5.75 ct. Diamond
10 A closer look at is the only gem that consists of one single
Patek Philippe’s values and element – 99.95 percent of carbon –
innovations formed one to three billion years ago,
deep in the earth’s mantle
10
Enduring beauty
A journey into the fascinating realm
of diamonds, rich with history
and facts
16
Land of legends
Hampi and Goa command Limited edition of 88 pieces
modern imagination with Powered by Raging Mechanics
ancient myths
44
The ideal setting
Every gemstone is put in
the right light under
the microscope
50
4 | Deeply Inspired
90
Don’t miss
Personal recommendations
off the beaten track
96
Under the hammer
The 60th jubilee of “International
Auctions – Swiss Made”
ZENITH, THE FUTURE OF SWISS WATCHMAKING
58
100
Social agenda DEFY I El Primero 21
Read about the latest happenings in
the world of Gübelin 1/100 of a second chronograph
th
58
Stitch by stitch 104
How a marvel in tulle and silk is Next issue
created from hundreds of metres The ruby’s intricate choreography of
of fabric vibrant colours and transformative
shapes inspire one of Gübelin
64 Jewellery’s unique worlds,
“Glowing Fire”
The quest for knowledge
The Dr. Eduard Gübelin Research
Scholarship supports innovative
gemmological pursuits
80
80
70
Inspirational exchange
Galerie Urs Meile celebrates 25 years
of contemporary art dissemination
70 86
By design Sweeping views
Bvlgari showcases the best of Italian
design and Swiss know-how in its
watch collections
Hong Kong’s dramatic
vistas from ancient rocks
to high-rises
86
www.zenith-watches.com
6 | Deeply Inspired
Zenith_HQ • Visual: U29_DE1 • Magazine: Deeply_inspired_Magazin (CH) • Language: English • Issue: 13/02/2018
Raphael Gübelin
President
Dear Readers,
The bright sunshine and longer days bring with them new sparkle of every gemstone at our atelier, or stunning gowns
dimensions, as we welcome the beginning of the summer for the Zurich Opera Ball, to the participation of Mirko
season. This issue is as luminous as our Stone of the Season Baselgia as Galerie Urs Meile’s artist in residence, as well as
itself: diamond, the gemstone that celebrates the most unforgettable evening views over the rooftops of Hong Kong.
important events in our lives, like marriage, anniversary
and more. Sparkling jewellery and elegant watches, to which the
House of Gübelin is fully dedicated to understand and
A unique journey in the ancient land of India unveils the share with you, are a true cause for celebration. Our spring/
mystery that has shrouded diamonds for centuries, allowing summer issue’s bridal photo shoot presents jewellery and
us to better appreciate their miraculous formation that truly timepieces that are perfect for the big day.
reflects the title of this magazine, “Deeply Inspired”.
Have a brilliant summer,
The work of Dr. Nester Korolev, supported by the Dr.
Eduard Gübelin Research Scholarship, has led to a greater
understanding of the deep earth by examining inclusions in
Type IIa diamonds.
Raphael Gübelin
Great inspirations produce authentic results, from gem
setters whose quest for beauty leads them to reveal the true
9
Cheryl Chu
ENDURING
BEAUTY
A JOURNEY INTO THE FASCINATING
REALM OF DIAMONDS, RICH WITH
HISTORY AND FACTS
Diamonds are also classified into different
chemical types. 95% of natural diamonds are
Type Ia, which contain nitrogen clusters, so the
colour can vary from almost colourless to light
yellow. Type Ib, with isolated nitrogen, often
appears bright yellow. Blue indicates the presence
of boron, which is Type IIb. Diamonds which are
chemically pure with no measurable nitrogen nor
boron belong to Type IIa. Less than two percent
of the world’s natural diamonds is Type IIa.
With all this in mind, we can understand the
enormous legacy and value of ‘Golconda’
diamonds. The name originates from the
legendary mines in India’s Golconda region. The
world’s most famous Indian diamond, the oval,
modified brilliant-cut 105.60-carat Koh-i-Noor
(“Mountain of Light”), part of the Crown Jewels
of England, hails from Golconda. Discovered
early as the eighth century B.C., diamonds from
One of the most beloved gemstones system of diamonds, the colourless
the region were believed to contain the power of
is arguably the diamond, formed one group consists of Exceptional White
the gods, manifested through their exceptional
to three billion years ago and 150 Plus D, Exceptional White E, Rare
transparency, purity and eternal sparkle of
kilometres deep in the earth’s mantle, White Plus F, Rare White G and
magical colours. Only kings and priests were
where the pressure ranges between White H. The more colourless a
deemed worthy to possess such a treasure.
40,000 and 60,000 atmosphere and ‘white’ diamond, the rarer it is. The
The “Idol’s Eye”, a very light blue 70.20-carat
the temperature reaches up to 1000 degree of clarity is measured with 10
diamond, believed to be from Golconda, was
degrees Celsius. On average, only 75 times magnification, and if there are
once thought to be the Nassak that adorned the
carats of diamond – just 15 grams – no visible inclusions, a diamond is
statue of Lord Shiva in the Trimbakeshwar Shiva
can be yielded from 100 tons of ore. considered “internally flawless”. The
Temple. Indeed, the diamond’s prismatic colours
The diamond is an extraordinary perfect cut, another ‘c’, contributes to
were once associated with talismanic forces.
gem: with 99.95 percent of carbon, it incomparable radiance. The ‘brilliant’
is the only gem that consists of one cut is thus named, because it has 58
single element. Its densely-packed facets that make a diamond shine so
quadrivalent carbon atoms form the brightly. The word brilliance also
hardest material in Mother Nature, 10 sums up other qualities beyond the
on the Mohs scale. 4Cs. It is the luster, the reflection of
light from the cut surfaces; and the
The universal method for assessing high refraction index of 2.42, which
the quality, and ultimately, value of means a diamond transmits light 2.42
Photo on pages 10 and 11, vintage
diamonds is the 4Cs: carat, colour, times slower than in the air, splitting diamond brooch, photo courtesy of
clarity and cut. The weight unit of it into prismatic colours. The amount Gübelin. Above, inclusions inside a
carat has origins in ancient India, of perceived dispersion is the fire that diamond, photo courtesy of Gübelin
Gem Lab. Opposite page, right,
where one seed of the native carob gives a diamond its lively sparkle.
diamond in kimberlite, catalog number
tree corresponded to one carat, now 120956, National Mineral Collection,
standardised to the equivalent of Smithsonian Institution, photo by
0.2 grams. In the colour grading Chip Clark; a facetted diamond, photo
courtesy of Gübelin Gem Lab
12 | Deeply Inspired | STONE OF THE SEASON 13
This page, clockwise from top right,
Napoleon Diamond Necklace, catalogue
number G5019-00, National Gem
Collection, Smithsonian Institution, “Diamonds are
gemstones that mark
gift of Mrs. Marjorie M. Post in 1962,
photo by Chip Clark; diamond growth
structure, courtesy of Gübelin Gem Lab;
a facetted diamond, courtesy of Gübelin
Gem Lab. Opposite page, dispersion of
the momentous occasions
light from the Pearson diamond, catalog
number G7114, a 16.72 carat, round
in our lives with their
brilliant-cut diamond from South Africa,
National Gem Collection, Smithsonian
brilliancy and remind
Institution, photo by Chip Clark
us of them anew – birth,
engagement, marriage,
first child, and
anniversaries.”
Eduard Josef Gübelin
India was the only known source of brilliancy and remind us of them
diamonds up until the 18th century. anew – birth, engagement, marriage,
The Golconda mines are now first child, and anniversaries, to name
depleted, but the term of Golconda but a few important events.” The
diamonds has become synonymous diamond marks the 60th wedding
with the highest standard of anniversary, and is the birthstone
transparency and purity. The of April. Its very etymology –
Golconda Appendix, introduced by from the Medieval Latin word,
the Gübelin Gem Lab in the 1980s, adãmas, derived from the Greek for
attests to the rarity of exceptionally ‘invincible’, to the Middle English or
pure, clear and large diamonds, Old French word, diamant – stands
regardless of their origins. for lasting value and beauty. Today,
the major countries of origins of
In our times, the gemstone diamonds include Africa, Australia,
has become synonymous with Canada and Russia.
celebrations, one of the most
important ones being engagement
to a life partner. One of the first
documented diamond engagement
rings dates back to 1477, when
Archduke Maximilian I of Austria
presented a wedding ring with thin,
flat diamonds to Mary of Burgundy
outlining her initial, ‘m’. About
diamonds, gemmologist Eduard Josef
Gübelin once wrote: “Diamonds are
gemstones that mark the momentous
occasions in our lives with their
14 | Deeply Inspired | STONE OF THE SEASON
Lakshmi Sharath
LAND
OF LEGENDS
HAMPI AND GOA COMMAND MODERN IMAGINATION
WITH ANCIENT MYTHSIt is late afternoon and I am swirling inside a coracle, a round boat made of bamboo
cane, on the waters of the Tungabhadra, one of the largest rivers of South India.
I am heading to Hampi, a historic town in Karnataka, known for its ruins of the
Vijaynagar Empire that ruled over South India during the Middle Ages. As my
guide Hussain and I approach the river that separates the twin towns of Anegundi
and Hampi, mountains stacked with giant boulders on the fringes of the river come
into view. Going through one of the entrances that served as the city gate, I am
immediately transported to the medieval era.
Hussain tells me the story of Hampi, “Two brothers called Harrihara and Bukka fled
Anegundi after a war with their enemies and they landed here across the river. They
were army chieftains and gathered a group of soldiers to fight with them. They met a
Hindu saint who motivated them to establish their own kingdom called Vijaynagar,
which meant City of Victory. Together, the brothers fought against the rivals and
won. That was the beginning of the Vijaynagar Empire and the city soon came to be
called Hampi.” The dynasty went on to rule South India for over 300 years.
I am standing on the remains of the first-ever palace built here, in the 14th century.
There are temples and palaces, towers and gates, step wells and sculptures scattered
around. Everything about this UNESCO World Heritage Site is larger than life,
and every monument tells a story. The oldest monument that dates even before the
dynasty, the ancient Virupaksha temple tells the legend of the Hindu deity Shiva who
falls in love with Parvathi, Pampa, as she is called here under the influence of Kama,
or Cupid. One legend says that the name Hampi is derived from the word Tampa, and
even the river here is named after the goddess.
Photo on pages 16 and 17, Zenana Enclosure, Hampi, courtesy of Evolve Back Kamalapura
Palace, Hampi. These pages, inside the Lotus Mahal, courtesy of Evolve Back Kamalapura
Palace, Hampi
18 | Deeply Inspired | TRAVEL 19“The ancient Virupaksha
temple tells the legend of the
Hindu deity Shiva who falls in love
with Parvathi.”
Myths and legends seem to come Hampi was once the diamond to buy horses or porcelain. It was takes its inspiration from the once-
alive around me as I walk around the capital and carats of diamonds were believed that when the empire was opulent palaces. I am fascinated
old markets of this prosperous town. sold openly in these markets. The finally defeated, horses, bullock by the delicate arches, the stone-
At one time, merchants thronged Vijaynagar kings traded with the carts and elephants laden with paved boulevards and the towering
here, as trade flourished with several Chinese, Arabs, Romans among diamonds and pearls were packed gateways of this resort. The
countries. Portuguese horses were others. Nobles who had mining and smuggled out of Hampi, but no murmurings of the resort’s little
then exchanged for precious stones rights given by the kings deployed one knows what happened to the canals seem to echo the meandering
and diamonds. Early 16th-century spies to discover where the diamonds treasures. Along with the dynasty, rivulets of the Tungabhadra. The
Portuguese traveller Domingo were mined. While the neighbouring they were lost as well in the annals pool villas are an epitome of luxury
Paes, wrote during his visit of the rival kingdom of Golconda was of time. and aptly coined Jal Mahal or the
Vijaynagar Empire, “In this street live known for their famous diamonds, Water Palace. I dine like royalty, and
many merchants. You will find all Vijayanagar Empire which ruled Back in my palatial Evolve Back after an hour-long relaxed session
sorts of rubies, diamonds, emeralds, over all of modern-day Deccan Kamalapura Palace, Hampi, an at the spa, I am all set to leave the
pearls, seed-pearls, cloths, and every Plateau was no less prosperous. exclusive resort, every stone of the portals of the Vijaynagar Dynasty
other sort of thing there is on earth Diamonds were given for trade to resort is an ode to the Vijaynagar and head to sunshine town, Goa.
and that you may wish to buy.” merchants – irrespective of whether Empire as the design of the property
20 | Deeply Inspired | TRAVEL 21Senator Chronograph
The former Portuguese colony became a port of entry for the
Brazilians who smuggled their diamonds through Goa into
Europe during the early part of the 18th century. Despite the
Portuguese royal family having officially announced the new
discovery of diamonds in Brazil, the European market remained
skeptical – their love for Indian diamonds was still burning
fervently even as its legendary mines depleted. Perhaps it is Goa’s
little tryst with diamonds that adds to its fame as a romantic
wedding destination today.
The landscape changes from mountains and craggy boulders to
beaches and coconut trees. The temples and palaces give way to
old forts and churches. Walking along the beach of the 17th-
century Fort Aguada, I watch the gusty waves lash against the
Photos on page 20, top, Virupaksha Temple, courtesy of
shore. Between river and sea, canals and lakes, I hire a bike and Leon Yaakov/flickr.com; bottom, Hampi, a UNESCO Heritage
continue west, along the River Mandovi, to Fontainhas where Site. On page 21, a beach in Goa, courtesy of Alessandro
bright façades still adorn some of the oldest houses from the Baffa/flickr.com. This page, clockwise from top, the beach at
Fort Aguada, courtesy of Ankur P/flickr.com; Church of Our
Portuguese colonial era. As night falls, the moon reflects its white
Lady of the Immaculate Conception, Goa, courtesy of Will
sheen on the waves and the sea breeze blows rather lustily, I am de Freitas/flickr.com; ramparts of Fort Aguada, courtesy of
cast in a spell, charmed by the spirit of India. Pichenettes/flickr.com
Beijing · Dresden · Dubai · Geneva · Hong Kong · Macau · Madrid · Nanjing · Paris · Shanghai · Shenyang · Singapore · Tokyo · Vienna
22 | Deeply Inspired | TRAVEL
GO_SE-CHRONO-PD_210x285mm.indd 1 13.02.2018 11:19:35Perfect Match Celebrate the special occasions
with radiant jewellery
and iconic timepieces
Piaget, Possession, ref. G0A43095. The white gold case is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, and 11 diamond-dots indexes are highlighted
on the silvered dial. Gübelin Jewellery, stackable white gold ring with a brilliant-cut diamond, 0.55 ct, stackable white gold Eternity ring
with brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.19 ct, stackable white gold ring, stackable white gold ring with a brilliant-cut diamond, 1.02 ct
24 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 25Opposite page: Gübelin Jewellery, white gold earstuds, 6-prong setting with two brilliant-cut diamonds, each 0.80 ct; Gübelin
Jewellery, platinum ring with an Asscher-cut diamond, 5.75 ct; Elie Saab dress from Gross Couture. This page: Gübelin Jewellery,
platinum ring with an Asscher-cut diamond, 5.75 ct
26 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 27This page: Gübelin Jewellery, white gold earstuds with three brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 1.80 ct, white gold necklace with three brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.90 ct, white gold ring with three brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 1.20 ct; Elie Saab dress from Gross Couture. Opposite page: Roger Dubuis, Velvet Automatic, ref. RDDBVE0024. Set with brilliant-cut diamonds, this watch features a silver dial, white gold case with a diameter of 36 mm and is certified with the Poinçon de Genève 28 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 29
This page: Gübelin Jewellery, white gold earstuds, 4-prong setting with two brilliant-cut diamonds, 1.12 ct and 1.09 ct, Rivière necklace in This page: Gübelin Jewellery, white gold earstuds, 6-prong setting with two brilliant-cut diamonds, each 0.80 ct, Première ring in white white gold with a brilliant-cut diamond, 3.60 ct, a princess-cut diamond, 3.18 ct, and a pear-shape diamond, 4.13 ct, 12 marquise-shape gold with a brilliant-cut diamond, 1.54 ct, and 126 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.29 ct. Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rendez-Vous Night & Day, diamonds totalling 1.03 ct, 121 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 12.58 ct, Rivière bracelet in white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds totalling ref. 3468121. The stainless steel case, with a diameter of 29 mm, features a diamond-set bezel. The day/night indicator is at the six o’clock 13.07 ct, Eternity ring in white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.85 ct; Elie Saab dress from Gross Couture position on the silver guillochéd dial; Elie Saab dress from Gross Couture 30 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 31
Opposite page, her: Gübelin Jewellery, white gold earstuds, 4-prong setting with two brilliant-cut diamonds, 1.12 ct and 1.09 ct, Ancient
Path white gold ring with a cushion-shape emerald from Colombia, 1.80 ct; Elie Saab dress from Gross Couture. Him: IWC Schaffhausen,
Portofino Automatic, ref. IW356501. The automatic movement 35111 with a power reserve of 42 hours is housed in a 40 mm stainless
steel case; Zoro suit. This page: Jaeger-LeCoultre, Master Ultra Thin Moon, ref. 1368420. The automatic in-house calibre 925/1 powers
the date, hour-minute, moon phase and seconds display in a modern design, spotlighting an elegant stainless steel case just 9.9 mm thick
32 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 33This page: Gübelin Jewellery, Drops of Water platinum ring with an oval ruby, 3.39 ct, and two oval diamonds, 1.03 ct and 1.02 ct. Opposite page, from top: Gübelin Jewellery, white gold wedding band with 144 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 1.15 ct, white gold wedding band with a brilliant-cut diamond, 0.07 ct, white gold wedding band, white gold wedding band with 37 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.29 ct and white gold pendant loop 34 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 35
This page: Patek Philippe, Gondolo Serata, ref. 4972/1G. A contemporary interpretation of the Art Deco style, this watch features 130 diamonds, a guillochéd mother-of-pearl dial and white gold bracelet with decorated links. Opposite page: Gübelin Jewellery, white gold ring, 6-prong setting with a brilliant-cut diamond, 1.71 ct, stackable white gold Eternity ring with brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.25 ct. Cartier, Ballon Bleu de Cartier, ref. W4BB0017. Set with 54 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, this stainless steel watch features a 36 mm case and automatic movement; Zoro wedding dress 36 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 37
This page: Gübelin Jewellery, red gold wedding bands. Parmigiani Fleurier, Toric Qualité Fleurier, ref. PFC422-1600100-HA1441. A thorough update of Michel Parmigiani’s first watch, the contemporary Toric Qualité Fleurier features a bezel with gadroons and knurling, inspired by the columns of Ancient Greece; Zoro wedding dress. Opposite page, Patek Philippe, Complications World Time, ref. 5230R. Powered by the mechanical self-winding movement 240 HU, the watch displays 24 hours and day/night indication for 24 time zones. Gübelin Jewellery, wedding bands in red gold; Zoro suit 38 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 39
Gübelin Jewellery, white gold earstuds with two princess-cut diamonds, 0.81 ct and 0.80 ct, white gold ring with a princess-cut diamond, 0.56 ct Zenith, Elite Classic, ref. 03.2290.679/01.C493. The 39 mm ultra-thin case houses the automatic Elite 679 calibre with 50 hours of power
reserve. Gübelin Jewellery, stackable Première ring in white gold with a brilliant-cut diamond, 0.20 ct, and Première white gold ring
40 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 41Her: Gübelin Jewellery, white gold earstuds, 4-prong setting with two brilliant-cut diamonds, 1.12 ct and 1.09 ct, white gold necklace, 4-prong setting with a brilliant-cut diamond, 0.91 ct, white gold ring with a brilliant-cut diamond, 2.12 ct, and two pear-shape diamonds; Zoro wedding dress. Him: Ulysse Nardin, Classic Classico, ref. 3203-136-2/30. Housed in a 40 mm stainless steel case, the self-winding manufacture movement, Calibre UN-320, offers silicium technology and Ulysse Nardin Performance Certificate; Zoro tuxedo 42 | Deeply Inspired | JEWELLERY & WATCHES 43
Isabelle Junod Hinderer
THE IDEAL
SETTING
UNDER THE MICROSCOPE EVERY GEMSTONE CAN
BE SEEN IN ITS TRUE LIGHT“It is the gem setter
Gems have always enchanted people. Beautiful necklaces, precious earrings and valuable who adds the crowning touch to every
rings are regularly given on very special occasions, so jewellery often carries with it a very
personal story. piece of jewellery, as the precious
Creating a piece of jewellery can take several months of work that requires a high degree of
gemstones are set by hand.”
experience, gemmological expertise, and extraordinary patience. The gem setters work hand
in hand with the goldsmiths, so it goes without saying that both professions sit side by side in
Gübelin’s jewellery atelier and share their expertise. The gem setters are responsible for the
final placing of the gemstones and for ensuring that these lovingly-made creations not only
look exquisite and shine beautifully, but also fit securely into their setting and enchant for
generations to come. Thus, it is the gem setter who adds the crowning touch to every piece of
jewellery, as the precious gemstones are set by hand.
When it is time for the gem to be set, it is placed into a mounting that is custom-made by the
goldsmith. As part of the process, the gem setter first shapes and grooves a suitable seat for the
gem, before using a setting hammer with great care and precision to close the precious metal
over the stone in order to create the perfect grip. Every gemstone, no matter how small – some
only 0.06 mm in size – has to be worked on individually and fit into the individual design of the
piece securely and effectively. As these are rare and very precious gems, every little detail has to
be planned meticulously and every step must be sure.
The type of setting technique used depends on each individual stone, its hardness and
composition.
The prong or chaton version is very popular as a classic setting because only a small amount of
material surrounds the gemstone, allowing it to reflect light beautifully. It is Gübelin Jewellery’s
most commonly used setting. However, Gübelin also uses other settings, such as the bezel,
pavé, and channel versions.
Image on pages 44 and 45, a ruby is set in every piece of Gübelin Jewellery. This page, gem-
setting tools. Opposite page, the microscope is indispensable for a gem setter. Images on page
48, top, the Gübelin Jewellery Atelier; the prong and pavé settings on different jewellery pieces
46 | Deeply Inspired | ATELIER 47With a closed or bezel setting, the stone is completely surrounded by
metal. The pavé setting is a variant of the grain setting and is mainly used
with small diamonds to fill out and stud spaces. A pavé thread is also a
variation of the grain setting, in which the gemstones are placed in a line.
For alliance rings with diamond baguettes or princess-cut diamonds, the
channel setting is chosen, in which the stones are secured on either side by
the metal. The gems are carefully inserted into these channels, taking care
to ensure that none of the partitions are visible. In principle, the perfect
setting and even alignment of the gemstones guarantee a smooth and
harmonious effect.
The assorted tools have hardly changed over the years and this is why
various burins, drills, cutters, setting hammers, and beading tools still
form part of the basic equipment. Many gem setters have also developed
their own tools over time that fit their hands uniquely, almost like
extensions of their fingers. In the meantime, the microscope has become
indispensable for their job, as it enables extremely precise work and
enlarges every tiny detail.
Gübelin’s jewellery atelier employs highly experienced gem setters, some
of whom can boast more than forty years of experience. They also oversee
the training of the apprentices, as Gübelin is one of the few to offer
education in this fascinating discipline. For the apprenticeship, skilled
craftsmanship, aesthetic sensitivity, communication skills, patience, and
finesse are indispensable. The highest level of concentration is required in
the execution of each creation. This means that nothing is left to chance
when, after an intensive period of preparation, the various diamonds or
coloured gemstones take centre stage.
Anyone who has had the great privilege of watching a gem setter at
work is aware of the passion and attention to detail invested in each
creation. Therefore, it is only natural that a ruby is set in each piece
of Gübelin Jewellery, as it is the king of gemstones and a symbol of
Big Bang Unico.
passion and love.
Case in 18K King Gold and ceramic
bezel. UNICO column-wheel chronograph.
In-house Hublot movement. 72-hour
48 | Deeply Inspired | ATELIER power reserve. Interchangeable strap
hublot.com by a unique attachment.
Hublot_GubelMag_BBUnicoGC_200x285.indd 3 06.02.18 10:21Mario Carini
HALLMARKS OF
EXCELLENCE
A CLOSER LOOK AT PATEK PHILIPPE’S
VALUES AND INNOVATIONSThe highest quality of each creation is guaranteed by
Honorary President Philippe Stern and Patek Philippe
President Thierry Stern, who expresses, “For Patek Philippe,
being a family-owned company gives us the independence to
decide our future, to create and produce our watches in line
with our long-term values. Another major difference is the
trust which clients place in the company and the products
because there is a family involved on a daily basis. They
Patek Philippe was founded in 1839 and can put a face to the brand name, which makes it more
it is the last independent, family-owned personal.”
watch manufacture in Geneva. The
brand stands out for its independence, The beauty deep inside a Patek Philippe movement can be fully
tradition, innovation, quality and fine appreciated under the microscope. From the smallest screws
workmanship, rarity, value, aesthetics, that are difficult to perceive with the naked eye, to the finest Co-founder Jean Adrien Philippe as a trademark in 1887.
service, emotion and heritage – all of edges concealed inside the watch case, every component features The “Croix de Calatrava” has become an emblem of Patek
which represent a whole that is truly hand-finishing details, the result of a large variety of manual Philippe’s pioneering spirit, embodied by the Calatrava’s
greater than the sum of its parts. The techniques that have been safeguarded, practised and perfected watch collection. Its pure form is quintessentially Patek
highest standard in watchmaking is by generations of Genevan artisans at Patek Philippe since its Philippe, and for over 85 years, different references have
distilled in the Patek Philippe Seal, a foundation. Painstaking finishes of every component contribute delighted men and women.
complete quality certification. The not only to a movement’s aesthetics, but also to its mechanism.
quest for a deeper experience is shared In addition to the PP hallmark on the calibre, most Patek The 40th anniversary of the beautiful and accurate automatic
by the House of Gübelin, whose tie Philippe watches feature the Calatrava Cross on their crown. Calibre 240, with its micro-rotor in 22K gold, was celebrated
with Patek Philippe dates back to by the manufacture with the Calatrava 6006G, third generation
1854 when the Lucerne company was The origins of the name Calatrava can be traced to a of the series after the 5000G in 1991 and the 6000G in 2005.
founded and began to service and retail knighthood in Spain from the 12th century. Featuring The new watch increases the case to 39 mm in diameter, but
the watches. Common values have four fleur-de-lis, the cross symbolised chivalry, courage retains the two-tone ebony black dial (in three different finishes),
strengthened this partnership, and and independence, and was registered by Patek Philippe spotlighting white hands which indicate hour, minute and
the two companies have collaborated date. Specific features of this model are the date hand with
on many projects, as well as special a red arrowhead and the seconds sub-dial between four and
edition watches, some of which created five o’clock positions. The Calatrava 6006G is a memorable
exclusively for Gübelin that attest timepiece for collectors and high watchmaking connoisseurs.
to the direct bond between the two
families. Patek Philippe’s profound inspirations from watchmaking
history carry on a tradition of innovations and quest for
For more than 160 years, watchmakers beauty – so deeply expressed in its famous minute repeaters.
of the Gübelin atelier have exercised At a time when the traditional craft of gong production was
their unique know-how by looking nearly extinct in Switzerland, and when British and American
deep inside movements to appreciate watchmakers were focussed only on precision, Patek Philippe
their beauty and understand the struck out a new path by reviving the complication, which
intricate mechanism. This pursuit chimes and evokes emotions. The sound must meet over a
is very much shared by Patek dozen of criteria that determine whether the minute repeater,
Philippe, which took five years to which takes 200 to 300 hours of initial assembly, needs
define the criteria for every one of to go back to the workshop. The watch is first placed in a
its watchmaking processes before soundproof chamber where its chimes are digitally recorded.
launching its own standard of The sound waves are mapped out, analysed, and then
quality for mechanical watches in compared with archived melodies to ensure it is consistent
2009, the Patek Philippe Seal. Every with the manufacture’s historical pieces. However, the
Image on pages 50 and 51, Patek Philippe’s Calibre 300 GS AL 36 750 QIS FUS IRM
single timepiece produced by Patek ultimate test is an audition by Thierry Stern himself, who
is made of 1366 components. This page, Patek Philippe’s headquarters. Opposite
page, top, President of Patek Philippe, Thierry Stern (©point-of-views); bottom, the Philippe can have a lifetime service of listens to each and every minute repeater watch before it is
Calatrava 6006G maintenance, repair and restoration. approved and ends up on the wrist of a customer.
52 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES 53The Grandmaster Chime 6300G, launched by Patek Philippe at
Baselworld 2016, stands out in high watchmaking for its exquisite
mechanism and complications – 20 of them housed in a white gold
reversible case, with a diameter of 47.40 mm and thickness of 16.10
mm. The manual movement powering this watch is the Calibre 300
GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, an awe-inspiring mosaic fitted with
1366 parts, 108 jewels and 32 bridges. It is another feat of technical
innovation. “Innovation is a tradition for Patek Philippe and it is
limitless for us. Our rich history of watches displayed in the Patek
Philippe Museum show that inventions, innovations – technical as
well as aesthetical – are part of our DNA and history.”
The 20 complications include grand and petit sonnerie, minute
repeater, moon phase, to mention but a few. It is the ensemble of
them that puts this timepiece in Grand Complications heaven,
a result of the fine balance between creative design, technical
virtuosity (the five different tones produced by its three gongs) and
aesthetic perfection. “The biggest challenge is to make these most
complex mechanisms in the smallest most elegant volume possible
and still achieve perfect and pure chiming. This is a know-how
we have developed for generations,” Stern emphasises. Despite
being one of the most complicated wristwatches ever created, the
Grandmaster Chime 6300G with a clear layout of the functions on
each of the two dials is user-friendly and extremely legible. “Design,
perfect aesthetic and elegance, as well as the long-term technical
reliability, will contribute to the fact that a watch will transcend
time and be appreciated for generations to come.”
This page, from top, the Grandmaster Chime 6300G and its
calibre; Patek Philippe’s atelier in the 1950s. Opposite page,
Gübelin’s historic boutique
54 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHESIsabelle Junod Hinderer
STITCH BY
STITCH
HOW A MARVEL IN TULLE AND SILK
IS CREATED FROM HUNDREDS OF
METRES OF FABRICFor over two hundred years, balls have
been one of the traditional highlights
of the year, bringing together
representatives from the worlds of
politics, business, and the arts. Some
of these balls introduce young women
in sumptuous gowns and young men
in tuxedos into society.
This custom continues even today, and
so every year in March, since 2005,
the Zurich Opera House has hosted a
glittering ball, at which young couples
between the ages of 16 and 24 make
their debut on the parquet of the
Opera House.
After months of intense rehearsals
under the direction of the Kaiser
Tanzschule (Kaiser Dance School),
the day has finally arrived. The mood
in the hall is animated when the 28
young couples enter the stage and
officially open the ball.
work that results in perfection and education and can proudly look
That each of these young ladies feels distinguishes Dorothea Nicolai’s back on a 125-year history. Practice
like a princess is mainly due to the work. Her years of experience as and theory are combined with skills
elegant gowns that have been tailor Director of Costumes and Make-up and creative collaboration is also
made for them after many hundreds at the Salzburg Festival as well as her encouraged.
of hours of work. It is thanks to current role as the Head of Costume
the longstanding collaboration Design at the Bayreuth Festival, help
between the ladies of the Opera Ball her to design the perfect gown.
Committee, under the presidency
of Martina Baeriswyl-Holzach and Every year in September, the different
Katrin von Mérey, who is responsible parties come together. At the first
for the debutantes, Dorothea Nicolai, meeting, Dorothea Nicolai presents
costume designer, and Michaela Karg, the committee with two or three
project director at the Modeco School designs along with fabric suggestions.
of Zurich, that a marvel in silk and Based on these preliminary designs,
tulle is lovingly created. ideas are exchanged and the outline
of the next dress is determined. This
Every little detail has to be perfect, is followed by the drawing of the final
as nothing will escape the expert design under the supervision of the
gaze of the Opera Ball Committee Modeco School’s project director,
in the presence of Dorothea Nicolai Michaela Karg. Modeco is the
and Michaela Karg, when the first tailoring school in Zurich in which
fitting of the gowns takes place in the debutantes’ gowns are made by
Photo on pages 58 and 59, the making of
January. As is so often the case, students in their fashion classes. The
the dresses. Opposite page, on stage at
it is the combination of expertise, Swiss School of Fashion and Design the ball, photo by Eddymotion. This page,
exquisite fabrics, and skilled manual plays an integral part in fashion drawings for the design of the dresses
60 | Deeply Inspired | DESIGN 61In total, there are 50 aspiring clothes designers, who sew the garments under
the supervision of five studio managers and five assistants. The role of the
atelier director is to measure the debutantes and create the respective pattern.
From September onwards, the debutantes will be assigned to one of the atelier
directors, who will look after them until the dress is finally made.
So, from 140 metres of printed fabric from the Netherlands, 150 metres of
white satin, and 150 metres of crinoline ribbon for the underskirt, a gown that
looks like haute couture is created. To prepare the sample to be presented to
the committee, Dorothea Nicolai works closely with Michaela Karg and the
Modeco School. At the first appointment, every centimetre from the length of
the hemline to the skirt width is checked and the accessories are also chosen.
The person allowed to model the sample is always a third-year student.
The young women are invited to try the gowns three or four times. After a
total of 740 hours, which divides into three full working days of 8.5 hours
for each of the 29 gowns (28 debutantes and a replacement dress, should
one of the young ladies fall ill), 6 hours of which are spent on the underskirt
alone, Gübelin Jewellery provides the crowning highlight before the 28
young couples step into the spotlight. With grace and total pride, these young
women wear their made-to-measure gowns, which compete with the jewels in
radiance and attention to detail.
This year’s gown in white satin features a very unique pattern that was specially
created for the evening by Dorothea Nicolai. Its different colour variations of
bright red with small May-green leaves are reminiscent of cherry blossoms,
which elegantly unfurl in individual tendrils to knee height.
Cherry blossoms stand for beauty and awakening, reminiscent of the young
This page, top, a look at all the dresses,
women, who, on this special evening, enchant the guests at the Zurich Opera Ball image courtesy of Modeco. Centre, fitting
with their elegance when it is time once again to announce: “Alles Walzer!” session. Bottom, photo by Eddymotion
62 | Deeply Inspired | DESIGNCheryl Chu
THE QUEST FOR
KNOWLEDGE
THE DR. EDUARD GÜBELIN
RESEARCH SCHOLARSHIP SUPPORTS INNOVATIVE
GEMMOLOGICAL PURSUITSThe scholarship accepts world-wide applications from MSc
and PhD students or post-doctoral researchers in geology “Inclusions are key to
and the related fields, such as mineralogy, geochemistry,
crystallography, chemistry, physics and material sciences.
assessing the depth of
Dr. Eduard J. Gübelin, one of the most
renowned gemmologists of the 20th century, left
Every year, the application process begins on 1 January with diamond formation.”
a deadline at the end of June. The Gübelin Gem Lab reviews
a rich legacy. In addition to his lifelong research the proposals and submits a shortlist to the committee, which
on inclusions and his invention of examination currently consists of eight globally-renowned scientists.
instruments specifically designed for gemstone “After polishing the diamonds to expose their inclusions, we
identification, he was also a passionate Nyfeler emphasised, “All members of the committee are well- determine the type of inclusions with Raman spectroscopy, and
scholar who wrote many publications and led established scientists from different parts of the world. They their chemical composition with electron microprobe analysis.
numerous lectures which spread and deepened are active in the research on gemstones and their formations, To estimate the depth of a diamond origin we re-calculated
gemmological knowledge in the scientific and the fact that they work for educational and research compositions of mineral inclusions with special software called
community. Together with his nephew Thomas institutions is vital, as it guarantees objectivity, without geothermometers and geobarometers. Sometimes the type
Gübelin and Professor Dr. Christoph Heinrich, commercial interests.” The scholarship enables researchers to of inclusion itself can tell us a lot. The pressure and temperature
he laid the first foundations in 2003 for the Dr. work on scientific projects with the possibility of collaborating acting on the minerals increase with increasing depth, and change
Eduard Gübelin Association for Research & with researchers from the Gübelin Gem Lab. the crystal structure of some minerals. For example, a certain
Identification of Precious Stones. For the past type of garnet begins to transform at the depth of about 250
five years, the association has been awarding The recipient is announced at the annual Hong Kong Jewellery km, its structure changes, and changing in a new high-pressure
the Dr. Eduard Gübelin Research Scholarship & Gem Fair which takes places every September. Awarded by modification called majorite. If we find a majorite in a diamond,
to promote scientific research projects in the non-profit Dr. Eduard Gübelin Association for Research it means that almost certainly it came from the sublithospheric
gemmology. We spoke to Gübelin Gem Lab and Identification of Precious Stones, the scholarship provides mantle. We have found 17 majorites in our diamonds.”
Managing Director Dr. Daniel Nyfeler for funding and support for the implementation of the research
insights into the unique scholarship. project to gain new gemmological knowledge. “In one of the diamonds, we made an important finding: the
super-deep inclusion of a perovskite-structured CaSiO3 phase with
“When the Dr. Eduard Gübelin Research Dr. Nester Korolev, 2015’s scholarship recipient, recently a stability field from about 550-600 km (transition zone) to the
Scholarship was first awarded in 2013, there was completed his research project examining the depth of lower mantle (i.e. below 660 km depth). Most inclusions have a
nothing of its kind nor stipends that supported diamond formation in the Earth’s mantle. “Inclusions are similar chemical composition with minerals of the lower mantle,
academic research on gemmology. Often, major key to assessing the depth of diamond formation. Our study while their crystal structures have been transformed and adapted
players in gemmology focus research to solve of a collection of diamonds from the Cullinan mine showed to the respective pressure conditions. The crystal structure of the
immediate problems for commercial ends. Few that Type II diamonds came from the entire depth range natural super-deep inclusion was determined for the first time by
are interested in fundamental research. That is of the upper mantle: the lithospheric mantle (150-250 km), means of the micro X-ray diffraction and electron backscatter
the gap which we try to fill while carrying on Dr. sublithospheric mantle (250-410 km) and the transition zone diffraction (EBSD), which we used by working with Dr. Fabrizio
Gübelin’s legacy,” explained Nyfeler. “With our (410-660 km). Nestola at his laboratory in the University of Padova.”
scholarship, we want to emphasise gemmology’s
scientific, not commercial, relevance. A research
Photo on pages 64 and 65, the reference collection of the Gübelin Gem Lab includes more than 27,000 gemstones. Opposite
project proposal must be scholastic in nature, page, both images on top, Dr. Nester Korolev’s study of Cullinan diamonds; Dr. Korolev, Dr. Eduard Gübelin Research Scholarship
and not commercially oriented.” 2015 recipient
66 | Deeply Inspired | SCIENCE 67Following this discovery, Korolev’s
paper, “CaSiO3-perovskite in diamond DR. EDUARD GÜBELIN RESEARCH SCHOLARSHIP RECIPIENTS
confirms the recycling of oceanic crust
into the lower mantle” (F. Nestola, N.
Korolev, M. Kopylova, N. Rotiroti,
D.G. Pearson, M.G. Pamato, M.
Alvaro, L. Peruzzo, J.J. Gurney, A.E.
Moore, J. Davidson), has been published
in the prestigious international journal
of science, Nature, in March 2018.
“Thanks to the scholarship, we were
also able to conduct a high-precision
study of olivine inclusions – most
common in the mantle up to the depth
of around 410 km – with laser ablation
inductively coupled plasma mass
spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) at the Arctic
Resources Laboratory of the University
of Alberta under the direction of Dr.
Graham Pearson. Based on these data,
we have determined their conditions of 2014, Gemma Emily Roberts, 2016, Dr. Boris Chauviré, “The
origin – temperature and pressure – and “Precious Opal Formation in Opal Instability Enigma: A key
consequently, the depth of formation for Australia: Insights into Martian from Water and Microstructure”,
some diamonds. This work would not Weathering Processes”, at the at the University of Nantes, France
have taken place without the funding University of Sydney, Australia
of the Dr. Eduard Gübelin Research
Scholarship.”
When asked about the outlook of the
scholarship, Nyfeler opined, “Over the
past five years, we have received over
1000 applications, and every year, we
support one new project idea that is
truly out of the box. We look forward
to groundbreaking proposals again this
year. Continuous research will lead to
new technologies that can be applied in
the future.”
2015, Dr. Nester Korolev, 2017, Philippe M. Belley, “The role
“The origin determination of metamorphic and geochemical
This page, clockwise from top left, Gemma of type II diamonds”, at the factors in gem spinel genesis”, at
Emily Roberts; Boris Chauviré's photo, University of British Columbia the University of British Columbia
courtesy of Vincent Pardieu GIA-FE39; in Vancouver, Canada in Vancouver, Canada
Philippe M. Belley's photo, courtesy of
Saori Ogura; Nester Korolev. Opposite
page, gemmologist Eduard J. Gübelin
68 | Deeply Inspired | SCIENCECheryl Chu
BY
DESIGN
BVLGARI SHOWCASES THE BEST OF
ITALIAN DESIGN AND SWISS KNOW-HOW
IN ITS WATCH COLLECTIONSBvlgari is a house of exception, As a design motif, the geometry Over the course of just several
creating exceptional pieces for of Maxentius Basilicate ceilings years, the Octo Finissimo collection
men and women while celebrating has inspired our Octo collection, has gained recognition with world-
beauty through creativity, unique launched in 2012. When the record thinness: in 2014, the Octo
know-how and attention to details octagonal shape was first Finissimo Tourbillon, powered by
– all of which have made this introduced, we decided to keep the thinnest flying tourbillon BVL
Italian maison so representative the bezel round, which provided a 268; in 2016, the thinnest minute
and iconic. Our interview with better structure for the mechanical repeater BVL 362, housed in the
Bvlgari CEO Jean-Christophe functions, and opted to highlight Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater;
Babin provides insights in the world the octagonal shape in the watch and 2017’s thinnest automatic “It’s not about re-engineering or reducing the number of components. The
of this Roman brand through its case,” said Babin, describing the movement, 2.23-mm BVL 138, of Octo calibre was designed from its inception to be a 3-dimensional, accurate
watch collection, Octo for men and beginnings of the collection. “Our the Octo Finissimo Automatic. and reliable movement. If you just shrink the existing components to create
Serpenti for women. objective when conceptualising the This watch, together with the Octo something thinner, the improvement is going to be marginal. Conversely,
men’s watches was that they would Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton, if you want to create a breakthrough, you have to start with a blank page.
“Octo is the ultimate expression be a departure from the linear won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie The challenge was to re-think the mechanical movement.” The 950-platinum
of contemporary elegance evolution and offer the thinnest de Genève last year. At Baselworld micro rotor of Calibre BVL 138 was specially designed to power the ultra-thin
in watchmaking. It is also a possible design with a strong design 2018, the Octo Finissimo Photo on pages 70 and 71, geometry,
movement, without adding thickness like conventional oscillating masses.
one of Bvlgari’s design signatures.
tribute to geometry. In ancient identity. Obsessed with sophisticated Tourbillon Automatic watch has
Opposite page, the Octo Finissimo
Rome, geometry was applied in elegance and uncompromising achieved a new world thinness Automatic watch, winner of the Grand High watchmaking or luxury lifestyle, what is the Octo collection’s outlook?
architecture and served mainly design, we knew that ultimate record of just 3.95 mm. Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2017. This “Octo is contemporary, sophisticated elegance, whether it’s Octo Roma, Octo
functional purposes to create contemporaneity would be the page, top, Calibre BVL 362, the thinnest
Originale, Octo Finissimo. What you will see in the future is the art of haute
minute repeater movement, housed in
strong structures. future of Bvlgari watches.” horlogerie expressed through Octo-inspired watchmaking, starting with the new
the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater (all
three images below) Tourbillon Sapphire in 2018.”
72 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES 73The Bvlgari SerpentiForm exhibition,
which took place in Tokyo last year,
showcased the artistic expressions
of the snake since antiquity to
modern and contemporary arts, from
As emblematic as the Octo collection is Bvlgari’s
painting and sculpture, to design,
women’s watch icon, the Serpenti. In the 1940s, the
fashion and photography. “A design’s
Italian house innovated upon the ancient motif of the
capability to evolve and affirm itself
snake and created a new secret watch, which hid a
through the generation is the best
dial in the head of a serpent on a gold bracelet. “It was
proof of its relevance,” opined Babin.
functional, flexible and doubly creative, as it was not
The Serpenti Incantati, launched
only a jewel but also a timepiece. Following the Serpenti
at Baselworld 2017, elevated the
design, it took Bvlgari another 40 years to develop a new
iconic design with complications.
ladies’ watch. Surprisingly enough, the maison was more
“Our concept was to create a piece
inspired by watchmaking than ancient jewellery designs.
of ladies’ jewellery rather than a
Combining the head of the snake with tubogas in 2010,
purely classic mechanical watch.
the Serpenti Tubogas was born and has become one of
Aesthetic is the point of entry. It is
today’s most iconic collections. It is unique and in line
what gives emotions to a watch.”
with what one would expect from Bvlgari: a jewel that
The new Serpenti Twist featuring
can be worn every day.”
interchangeable jewel-toned leather
straps promises a bright future for one
Developed by Bvlgari, the Serpenti Tubogas combines
of Bvlgari’s most enduring designs.
the glamour of jewellery with a comfortable wristwatch.
The special coil remains elastic over time, and is
crafted with layers of precious metals or steel, a feat of
engineering underscored by its beauty and sensuality. “It
is probably the most technical watch bracelet existing
on the market today. One of the reasons why clients
love Bvlgari is the ergonomics of our design. It is not
just aesthetic. We guarantee a special, soft contact on
the skin. When an object is placed on your body, the Opposite page, Bvlgari CEO Jean-
Christophe Babin. This page, clockwise
first thing that you feel is the physiological emotion. All
from top left, designing the Serpenti;
our watches are a delight to wear, which is ever more the Serpenti Tubogas; polishing the
relevant as we speak of the luxury of experience today.” Serpenti Incantati
74 | Deeply Inspired | WATCHES 75Razzle
dazzle ’em! Sign
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season’s most breathtaking blossoms into one-of-
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chocolate ‘Glacier’, crafted
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76 | Deeply Inspired | STYLE 77If there had to be only one Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Manufactured entirely in Switzerland parmigiani.com
Zhunnan Yu & Cheryl Chu
INSPIRATIONAL
EXCHANGE
GALERIE URS MEILE CELEBRATES 25 YEARS
OF CONTEMPORARY ART DISSEMINATION
81“We have an on-going
dialogue with museums,
Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Galerie Urs Meile has
collectors, and art critics to been championing contemporary art by leading collectors
inform them about our artists’ and enthusiasts deep into the world of multimedia art
forms, from painting and sculpture, to photography, video
works and position them and installation. Headquartered in Lucerne, Galerie Urs
“Urs Meile founded our gallery in Lucerne in 1992. At that
Meile’s pioneering representation of Chinese artworks
in the international context.” is internationally recognised. The establishment of two time, the art market was experiencing a crisis; there was
a dynamic art scene, with many exhibitions and exciting
locations in Beijing – in 2005, a gallery designed by Ai
Weiwei in Caochangdi, then a 520-square-metre space artistic approaches, but few sales. Invited by his friend Uli
repurposed by Japanese architect Misunori Sano in the 798 Sigg, appointed Swiss ambassador in Beijing in 1995, Urs
Art District, to house a reception, event space, offices and travelled for the first time to China,” recalls Karin Seiz,
exhibition areas – marks a milestone in its commitment to Galerie Urs Meile Co-Director. “Chinese contemporary art
artistic exchange between the East and West. was to a large extent unknown, and hardly visible outside
the country. It became our focus starting the second half of
the 1990s. Over the years, we have done many trips across
the country and hundreds of studio visits to build our
portfolio. Today, we represent 30 artists – from China and
all over the world.”
Galerie Urs Meile’s representation of the artists transcends
borders. At its first premise in Beijing – the gallery in
Caochangdi, often several artists are featured simultaneously
in the different exhibition halls. “This delicately-designed
space allows us to showcase different artists at the same
time, whom we choose to highlight due to their synergies
or contrasting perspectives, so we can engage in a deeper
dialogue with our audience. While in its newly designed
white-cube space in 798 Art District, we focus more on
artists’ solo representations.” explains Zhao Mengzhuo,
Artistic Director Beijing. Seiz emphasises, “We begin
our collaboration with artists when they are still largely
unknown. Our goal is to guide them to the edge of the
international art scene. We have an on-going dialogue with
museums, collectors, and art critics to inform them about our
artists’ works and position them in the international context.
We take care of all the administrative and organisational
matters, so that the artists can focus on creating.”
Photo on pages 80 and 81, Galerie Urs Meile’s Beijing on 104
Caochangdi. Opposite page, exhibition view of Cao Yu’s solo
show, “I Have an Hourglass Waist”, Galerie Urs Meile Beijing,
2017. This page, “Landscape of Growing II”, 2017, Mirko
Baselgia, courtesy of the artist and Galerie Urs Meile, Beijing-
Lucerne
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