Dreams Come True in Donegal - A Front Porch Travelogue - Acclaim Health

Dreams Come True in Donegal
       A Front Porch Travelogue

                                  Page 1

Introduction
For those not familiar with the Front Porch
Travelers, let me take a moment to introduce
you. They are six senior citizens who have
become very real over the past many years
that they’ve been presenting the travelogue for
Activity Connection. Couples Nell and Truman
McGiver and Bert and Ethel Davis join sisters
Mabel and Maude Gunderson in their virtual
adventures around the world. Click here to learn
more about the Front Porch Travelers.

                                                   Page 2

The Front Porch Travelers have visited
Ireland twice in the past, once in 2007
and then again in 2012. Since they love all
things Irish, they decided to travel there
again this month in order to cross off one
of the wishes on Maude’s bucket list. She
has always wanted to live in a lighthouse,
and Fanad Head Lighthouse offers the
opportunity to do just that. Pack up
your bags and let’s see what shenanigans
our curious travelers can get up to in
Donegal, Ireland.

                                              Page 3

Historical Truman
County Donegal is located in the
far northwest corner of Ireland
in the province of Ulster. The
name Donegal is the English
translation of the Irish Dún na
nGall and literally means “Fort of
the Foreigners.” Donegal’s tourism
catchphrase, “Up here it’s different,”
has proven to be well-founded.

                                              Page 4

Described by Lonely Planet as the
“wild child of Ireland,” its isolation and
untamed splendor makes visiting an
unforgettable experience. A
four-hour drive from Ireland’s capital
city of Dublin, it has the longest
coastline in Ireland along with sandy
beaches, castles, cottages, lighthouses,
heather-covered moors, charming
people, and a rugged beauty that will
take your breath away.

                                             Page 5

It was once the home of the mighty
clan known by the English as the
O’Donnell dynasty. One of the
richest and most powerful of the
native Irish families, they ruled
the area that covered almost all of
what is now County Donegal for
centuries. In 1601, the O’Donnells
of Tyrconnell and their cousins, the
O’Neills of Tyrone, were defeated by
the English at the Battle of Kinsale.
                   Page 6

O’Donnell fled to Spain and died
there several months later after
allegedly being poisoned. O’Neill
surrendered to the English, and,
after having most of his land
confiscated, returned to Ulster. In
1607 he left for Spain with family
members and supporters in what is
known as the “Flight of the Earls.”

                                      Page 7

The lands confiscated by the English
Crown were given to Protestant settlers
from Lowland Scotland. However, the land
was of such poor quality that many of the
settlers preferred to remain in eastern and
central Ulster. In 1922, when the current
border of the Irish Republic was established,
the predominantly Catholic Donegal was
separated from the rest of Ulster. Today, it
remains connected to the Republic by just a
narrow band of land.

                          Page 8

The connection between Donegal and
Scotland is strong and of long duration.
Before the Flight of the Earls, Ireland and
the Scottish Highlands were one region
connected by a single language and
culture. The poor farmers of Donegal,
in order to pay the rent imposed by the
English landlords, spent their summers
laboring as migrant farmworkers in
eastern Ulster and Lowland Scotland.

                          Page 9

This practice continued well
into the 20th century and forged
a bond between Donegal and
Scotland that still exists today.
Though Donegal may have been
financially impoverished, it is
considered to be rich in culture.
It is one of the last remaining
strongholds of the Irish language,
folklore, traditional customs, and
unique musical traditions.
                 Page 10

Discussion Starters
• Truman’s ancestors were from Scotland. Do you know where your
  ancestors originated?
• Donegal is known for being wild and remote. Does that kind of place
  appeal to you?
• Have you visited Ireland? Would you like to?

                                                     Page 11

Trivial Nell
   Donegal, for such a remote and isolated place,
   sure has a lot of interesting facts associated with
   it. Here’s what I learned:

    • Donegal’s nickname is “Ireland’s
      Forgotten County.” It’s one of the only
      counties of the Republic of Ireland once
      part of the ancient province of Ulster. Its
      remoteness is likely the reason it has been
      largely forgotten by the rest of Ireland and
      travelers alike.

                              Page 12

• Donegal’s weather is dominated
 by the Gulf Stream and therefore
 temperate. The summers are
 cool and damp, while the
 winters are mild and wet.
• Parts of Star Wars Episode VII:
 The Force Awakens and Episode
 VIII: The Last Jedi were filmed at
 Malin Head in northern Donegal.

                 Page 13

Lough Swilly (lough is pronounced lock) is one of Ireland’s three glacial
fjords. Regarded as one of the most scenic places in the country, the area
is best seen by boat. The Rathmullan House, nestled in the woods and
overlooking the lough, is a wonderful place to stay.

                                                       Page 14

• The most common surname
  in Donegal is Gallagher. Other
  common surnames are
  McDaid, O’Doherty,
  O’Donnell, and Gillespie.
• Have you ever heard of Donegal
  tweed? Once the rage in the UK,
  it was known for its beauty and
  durability. Though traditional
  weavers are harder to find, there
  are still some working their
  handlooms throughout Donegal.

                                      Page 15

The popular hymn “Amazing Grace” has a
connection to Donegal. It was written by John
Newton, once a slave trader and all-around
bad guy. In 1748, his ship was caught in a
vicious storm off the coast of Donegal during
a voyage from Africa to England. Newton
called out to God for mercy, and miraculously
he and his crew were saved after finding
refuge in Lough Swilly. After his rescue, he
became a changed man, renouncing slavery
and pledging to live a godlier life, which
included the writing of this hymn that
endures today.
                                                Page 16

Donegal shares a strong
musical tradition with the rest
of Ireland. The pubs at night are
alive with the sounds of local
bands and good fellowship.

                                    Page 17

A name that stands out among
the many notable musicians from
the Donegal area is Enya. Born
Patricia Brennan in Gweedore, she
started performing with her family
in their band known as Clannad.
Now, simply known as Enya, she
is one of the world’s best-selling
artists. She lives a reclusive life
in her castle in Dublin and has
achieved great fame without ever
embarking on a solo tour.

                Page 18

Donegal has its fair share of spooky
stories and haunted places. One
such place is Father Hegarty’s
Rock along Lough Swilly. Legend
has it that in 1632 a holy man was
beheaded there by British troops.
In the early 1990s, four boys
were biking recklessly along the
narrow pathway that had a 40-foot
(12-meter) drop to the rocks below.

                                       Page 19

All of a sudden, a ghostly vision
of a man on a white horse rose
before them. They stopped dead
in their tracks, avoiding an almost
certain fall over the edge. The
horse and rider vanished into thin
air, and when the boys were finally
able to talk about their experience,
there was no doubt in their minds
who had saved them that night.

                    Page 20

Discussion Starters
• Are you familiar with the hymn “Amazing Grace”? Let’s listen to it.

• Do you believe in ghosts? Have you ever had a paranormal experience?
 If so, please describe it.

                                                     Page 21

Traveling Man Bert

Donegal is a place you want to be
outdoors as much as possible. There
are so many interesting places to walk,
climb, ride a bike, or just sit and enjoy
the scenery. Donegal is famous for its
traditional music and offers so much
to hear as well as see.

                                                Page 22

Leo’s Tavern is run by the
brother of popular singer
Enya and features the music
of the family band Clannad.

                              Page 23

A singer said to be favored by women of
a certain age across the UK and Ireland
is Donegal-born Daniel O’Donnell.
His music, a combination of traditional
Irish music and country, got Nell up
and dancing. However, as we know, Nell
will take any opportunity to dance. We
did insist she not try the Irish jig, as that
was sure to end in disaster. Here are
some of the highlights from our visit:

                        Page 24

Tory Island off the coast of Donegal
came complete with its own king.
The last “royal” Patsy Dan Rogers,
a painter, died in 2018. He did
not have any real power, and his
primary duty was to serve as Tory’s
spokesperson. The most remote of
Ireland’s inhabited islands, Tory is
just three miles (4.8 km) long and
a half-mile (0.8 km) wide, with a
population of under 200 people.

                                       Page 25

Donegal Castle located in Donegal
Town is a 15th-century castle built in
1505 by the O’Donnell clan, who were
the ruling Gaelic chieftains until the
Flight of the Earls in 1607. While the
castle was fully restored in 1996, among
its surviving original features are the
stone floor and walls on ground level.
Donegal Castle is located in the heart of
quaint and picturesque Donegal Town
and the nearby Donegal Bay, home to a
seal colony, cormorants, and cranes.
                    Page 26

The Slieve League Cliffs are the
highest sea cliffs in Europe. The
view is spectacular, especially
in the evening when the last of
the sunlight is reflected in the
Atlantic Ocean.

                                    Page 27

Rossnowlagh Beach is also known as “Heavenly Cove.” It is one of the
top surfing beaches in Europe. Surfers delight in the challenge of the
towering waves. They were fascinating to watch.

                                                     Page 28

Doon Fort is situated on a
small island in the middle of
Loughadoon just outside the
charming village of Ardara.
The fort was thought to be
the residence of the O’Boyle
chieftains. Restoration work
began on the fort in 1954, and
efforts continue today.

                                 Page 29

Doe Castle was built in the 1420s and is
nestled in the inlet of Sheephaven Bay.
It served as the home and the refuge of
at least 13 of the MacSweeney chieftains.
It remained occupied until 1905 but has
been empty since then. The striking castle
with its white tower is well-preserved and
a favorite of tourists.

                         Page 30

Letterkenny is the largest town in
the county and home to hundreds of
high-end shops, including a number
of international fashion boutiques.
Needless to say, the Front Porch
ladies were in heaven, and Truman
and I were hard-pressed to get them
to leave. Fortunately, there were a
number of pubs and restaurants for
the two of us to escape to.

                                      Page 31

The “Wild Atlantic Way” is about
1,553 miles (2,500 km) long. This
driving route along the spectacular west
coast of Ireland begins on the Inishowen
Peninsula in County Donegal and ends
in the town of Kinsale in County Cork.
The twisting, turning roads are sometimes
single lanes with sheer drops to the
Atlantic Ocean below. You could also walk
the entire route if you were so inclined, as
there are wonderful places to stay and eat
along the way.
                      Page 32

Discussion Starters
• Of the places described by Bert, is there any you would most like
 to see?
• Like Nell, do you enjoy dancing? What kind of dancing do you most
 enjoy? Would you say you are a good dancer or, do you, perhaps,
 have two left feet like Truman and Bert?
• Do you recall the longest distance you have ever walked? If so,
 describe the experience.

                                                      Page 33

Fanad Head Lightkeeper Maude

When I was a young girl, after reading my father’s book The
Lighthouse at the End of the World by Jules Verne, I dreamt
of being a lighthouse keeper. When I confessed my desire
to my parents, they were quite perplexed, having thought I
would end up on stage given my love for stirring up drama.
Also, I remember getting in trouble with them because they
deemed the book, with its tale of murder and piracy, to be
unfit for a girl of my tender years. Now, it seems, all these
many years later, I’m going to get to spend some time in an
actual lighthouse.

                                                                Page 34

The Fanad Head Lighthouse was proposed
following the 1811 shipwreck of the HMS Saldanha
in the treacherous waters of Lough Swilly. The
only survivor of the wreck was the captain’s parrot,
identified by a silver collar inscribed with the name
of the ship. Designed by civil engineer George
Halpin, the beacon at Fanan Head was lit for the
first time on March 17, 1817. Its light was fixed
with red showing toward the sea and white toward
the lough. It could be seen in clear weather for 14
miles (22 km). In 1975, it was converted to electric
and in 1983 was fully automated.

                                                        Page 35

In 1917, tragedy struck again
when the British naval ship
the SS Laurentic hit two mines
and sank near the entrance to
Lough Swilly. Over 300 lives
were lost along with the secret
cargo of 3,211 gold bars. There
are reportedly 22 gold bars still
missing, and adventurous souls
are free to dive to the wreckage
to try their luck finding them.

              Page 36

Originally, the lighthouse was staffed
with a principal keeper and an assistant
keeper. They lived there with their
families, and their children attended
the Ballymichael School about 1.5 miles
(2.4 km) away. In winter, there was a
third lightkeeper who had temporary
lodging in the back of the lighthouse.
By 1978, only the principal keeper
remained, and in 1983, there was only a
need for a part-time attendant.

                                           Page 37

The Fanad Head Lighthouse,
known as one of the most
beautiful in the world, is located
between Lough Swilly and
Mulroy Bay on the eastern
shore of the Fanad Peninsula in
Donegal County.

                Page 38

The area is remote, rugged, and
breathtakingly beautiful. There are
three cozy lightkeeper’s cottages where
guests (and their pets) can stay. They
can watch the light’s beam sweep out
across the water as they go to bed at
night and wake up in the morning
to the sound of seabirds and waves.
Tours of the still working lighthouse
are available and quite informative. I
must say, in this case, the reality was
just as good as my dream!

                                          Page 39

Discussion Starters
• Have you visited a lighthouse? If so, can you describe the experience?

• When you were growing up, what did you dream of being? Did
 that dream come true?
• Have you read any of Jules Verne’s books? If so, what is your
 opinion of them?

                                                        Page 40

Queen of the Castle Mabel

Whereas Maude dreamt of being a
lighthouse keeper, I dreamt about
being a beloved queen who lived in
a castle and ruled her loyal subjects
with kindness and wisdom. There are
a good number of castles in Ireland,
but Glenveagh, with its interesting
history, particularly intrigues me.

                                                 Page 41

In the heart of Donegal on the
shores of Lough Beagh, sits a castle
within a beautiful national park. Its
construction began in 1867 and was
completed in 1873, making it one of
the newest castles in Ireland. It was the
home of a wealthy land speculator by
the name of John George Adair, who
came to be known as one of Ireland’s
most reviled landlords. Today, the
castle and its stunning gardens and
grounds are open to the public.
                      Page 42

Surprisingly John Adair’s story has
roots in America. After making his
fortune in Ireland buying properties
of those bankrupted from the Irish
famine, he established a brokerage
firm in New York City. He first
traveled to America in 1866 in
order to establish British loans in
America, where they could earn
higher interest rates.

                                       Page 43

It was there that the 46-year-old
Adair met Cornelia Ritchie, a
32-year-old widow with two
children. They married in 1867
and divided their time between
New York and Ireland.

                                    Page 44

Adair, by all accounts, was
not an easy man to get along
with, and before long, there
was a mutual dislike between
him and the people of New
York. It was suggested he
might be happier out west,
and so he traveled to Denver,
Colorado, to establish an
office for his firm.

              Page 45

There he met Charles Goodnight,
a former confederate colonel.
Goodnight was looking for
someone to help finance the
expansion of a cattle ranch into
unclaimed land in the Texas
Panhandle. Adair refused to invest
in anything he hadn’t seen. He and
Goodnight, along with their wives,
set off for the Palo Duro Canyon.

                                     Page 46

The 12-day journey was not
without adventure, as a gang of
outlaws heard about the trip and
set out to kidnap the Adairs for
ransom. Goodnight got word of
their plan and persuaded a group
of U.S. cavalry to serve as escorts,
thus preventing an attack.

                    Page 47

Adair, true to form, managed to
alienate almost everyone who
accompanied them except for perhaps
Cornelia, who reportedly blossomed
during the journey. She chose the
location for what would be known as
the JA Ranch and was regarded as its
true founder. Adair owned two-thirds
of the ranch, which was managed by
Goodnight. He made a substantial
profit on his investment.

                                       Page 48

When he returned to Ireland, he began to build his castle, which
he patterned off of Balmoral Castle, the Scottish retreat of Britain’s
royal family.

                                                      Page 49

He earned a place in infamy with
his 1861 eviction of the 244 tenants
(159 of them children) living on the
land he had previously purchased
for his estate. He had their homes
destroyed so they would have
nowhere to return. A number
ended up in the poorhouse, and
others emigrated to Australia.
Known as “Black Jack” Adair, he
was universally hated in Donegal.

                                       Page 50

Adair planted palatial gardens
and began working on his
dream of creating a hunting
estate. However, he did not have
time to fully enjoy it. Upon
returning from a trip to the JA
Ranch, he died suddenly while
en route in Missouri. Cornelia
inherited the castle and spent
the next 30 years improving it.

               Page 51

Unlike her husband, she remained
popular with her tenants. After she died
in London in 1921, Glenveagh fell into
a decline. In 1929, it was purchased
by American Arthur Kingsley Porter,
a professor at Harvard University. He
mysteriously disappeared in 1933,
and his body was never found. He
was presumed to have drowned, but
sightings of him have been reported
from many locations around the world
for years after his death.
                                           Page 52

In 1937, Henry Mcllhenny of
Philadelphia bought the estate.
In 1983, he bestowed the castle
and its grounds as a gift to the
Irish people.

                Page 53

Discussion Starters
• Have you known someone as unpleasant as Adair was reported to
 be? If so, did you have any ways to best deal with them?
• Would you have liked to experience the west when it was still
 largely uninhabited and wild? Do you think you would have liked
 the life of an early settler?
• If you were king or queen of a castle, what kind of ruler would you
 want to be?

                                                    Page 54

Dining Ethel
      Spending time at a local Irish pub is
      an experience not to be missed. The
      laid-back atmosphere, comradery,
      laughter, singing, and perhaps dart
      playing makes for a really fun time. The
      national drink of Ireland is Guinness
      stout beer, and, contrary to rumors
      about drinking warm beer, it is often
      served cold poured into a glass that’s
      room temperature.

                          Page 55

Irish stew is the food that most
often comes to mind when thinking
of Ireland. This hearty dish of
mutton (more often now lamb),
potatoes, onions, and sometimes
carrots is considered the national
dish of Ireland. It’s flavorful, filling,
and totally satisfying.

                                            Page 56

Here are some other Irish foods to enjoy:

Boxty pancakes – This traditional Irish
potato pancake is made by mixing
together cooked mashed potato, grated
raw potato, flour, and milk to form a
batter. Shaped like a pancake, it is then
slow-cooked until golden brown. The
pancakes can be eaten alone with butter
or sugar, or served with a full Irish
breakfast of bacon, sausage, eggs, toast,
black pudding, and tomato slices.

                    Page 57

Coddle – This favorite is made
with leftovers such as bacon,
sausage, potatoes, and onions.
Slow cooked in a broth until
rich and delicious, it’s perfect for
warming up on a cold winter day.

                                       Page 58

Colcannon – This is the
Irish version of the British
favorite bubble ’n’ squeak. Its
ingredients include mashed
potato with cabbage or kale,
but there are a number of
variations. It’s often a part of
St. Patrick’s Day celebrations.

              Page 59

Black and White Pudding –This
breakfast staple is a type of sausage.
Black pudding has blood as an
ingredient (usually from pork)
along with meat, fat, oatmeal, and
bread or potato fillers. The blood is
not something you can taste but, if
the thought makes you squeamish,
there’s white pudding, which has
all the same ingredients except for
the blood.

                                         Page 60

Seafood, mussels, and cockles – Ireland
has some of the best seafood in the
world. Its seafood chowder is a flavorful
dish filled with seafood such as prawns,
salmon, haddock, and white fish. Other
ingredients include milk, cream, and
vegetables such as onions, potatoes,
carrots, and garlic. It can be enjoyed
both in summer and winter. Donegal is
also known for its fish-and-chips shops.

                     Page 61

Irish Soda Bread – Made
with flour, baking soda,
salt, and soured milk, this
bread has a crispy crust and
a spongy, tender center.

                               Page 62

Barmbrack – A richly fruited bread,
it is best eaten with lots of butter
and accompanied by a pot of tea.
Traditionally, it was baked with a
ring or cloth inside. Whoever got
the slice with the ring would marry,
and whoever got the piece of cloth
would become a nun. It is enjoyed
as a special treat on Halloween.

                 Page 63

Irish Coffee – What makes a hot
cup of coffee even better? The
answer would be a shot of Irish
whiskey, two teaspoons of brown
sugar, and a topping of slightly
whipped double cream.

                                   Page 64

If you have determined that potatoes
are a common ingredient in Irish
cuisine, you are right on the money.
Potatoes were once vitally important,
especially for the Irish poor and
especially during winter. Because
of British rule, the majority of Irish
farmers, nearly 65%, were forced
to eke out a living on 1–15 acres
of land. The only crop that could
support hungry mouths on such a
small piece of land was potatoes.
                 Page 65

While not originally a popular food,
poverty pushed the Irish to find ways to
make the root vegetable edible. They were
easy to grow, hardy, and if eaten in large
enough quantities and combined with
milk, surprisingly nutritious. Prior to the
time of Ireland’s Great Famine (1845–
1851), nearly half of Ireland’s population
relied almost exclusively on potatoes as a
food staple, and the other half consumed
potatoes on a frequent basis.

                                              Page 66

The blight that wiped out the
potato crop caused mass starvation
and disease. People were too sick
and weak to fish, and animals
normally consumed for food were
dying of starvation, too. During the
famine, nearly one million people
died, and an estimated two million
emigrated to other countries.
During the 1840s, almost half of
all the immigrants coming to the
United States were from Ireland.

               Page 67

Today, the Irish consume more
potatoes than most people in
the world, but there is not the
reliance on them there once
was. Soups, seafood, and meats
(especially lamb) are also
important parts of Irish cuisine.

                                    Page 68

Discussion Starters
• Of the foods described by Ethel, are there any you would most want to
 try? Are there any you would not?
• Would you like to spend time in an Irish pub? What do you think you
 would most like about it?
• Do you know if any of your ancestors immigrated from Ireland during
 the time of the Great Famine?

                                                     Page 69

We hope you enjoyed sharing
our dreams in Donegal.
We’ll see you next month for
another fun destination.

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The End
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