DISCOVER HOW KEBAB CHANGED AN ORDINARY STREET IN NORTH LONDON - THE VOICE OF THE UK KEBAB INDUSTRY
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T HE VOIC E O F TH E UK K EBA B I N D UST RY I ss u e No. 2
FORTY NEW
TAKEAWAYS A DAY
IF YOU HAVE A KEBAB,
PUT IT IN A PITTA!
A KEBAB RESTAURANT
MAYOR OF HARINGEY JENNIFER MANN
FIFTY YEARS AGO!
DISCOVER HOW KEBAB CHANGED AN
ORDINARY STREET IN NORTH LONDON
WELC OME
CONTENTS The Great British
05 What is the kebab? Kebab staff shortage
Forty takeaways
07 launch per day
R
One of first doner
08 shops in the UK eaders will be The shortage of
interested employees in the
The biggest pitta
10 producer of the UK
to learn sector has reached
that due to a serious level. At
Online food delivery
the failures of present the primary
12 grows
chain restaurants, problem of many
the number of kebab businesses
The centre of kebab; independent and entrepreneurs
16 Green Lanes takeaways and mobile is a lack of staff.
food stands are increasing. Thousands of operators,
32 Living wage to rise by According to Companies House chefs and kebab masters who
6.2% 2019 data, more than fourteen are opening restaurants have a
thousand new takeaway food hard time finding an experienced
Takeaway facing staff
38 sortage
shops opened last year. waiter, and the government's
Many of these new businesses arrangement to bring staff from
are now facing a huge challenge, abroad with a salary of at least
The world's biggest
44 kebab chain
staff shortages. £30,000 a year is not fair or
Food businesses as well as affordable for far lower income
the hospitality industry as a businesses. The government
Is 2020 the year of the
46 falafel
whole are facing one of the needs a more supportive
most serious workforce crises approach to businesses that
in recent times. Thousands of make an economic contribution
immigrants returning home of billions annually to UK
www.britshish.com
coupled with a decrease in the economy.
BritShish Publishing number of immigrants coming Many kebab restaurants in
from countries such as Bulgaria, particular are family-owned.
Editors Romania and Poland because Although they are often
Timur Ekingen, of concerns around Brexit, have important and qualified staff,
Edward Rowe, Michael Daventry caused a huge deficit in the new generations in family
timur@britshish.com
sector. businesses are often not
Design & Production
The shortage of staff also makes interested in these types of jobs.
Mustafa Arabul an impact on kebab businesses. Business owners who try to sell
Firat Hayta, Erel Gerger While the wages of kitchen traditional meals which require
erel@britshish.com and grill chefs have doubled specialist preparation are often
compared to a few years ago, forced to close down if they
Contributors newly opened workplaces are cannot recruit chefs with the
Elif Sule Keles, Ceren Gunel,
also intensifying the shortage right skills.
Leyla Alp, Ozlem Aytekin,
Erman Koparan of table staff. The shortage of Training new staff and lobbying
available labour exacerbated the government on this matter
Advertising & Sales by the decline in the number has become one of the top
Zeynep Fesli of Eastern European migrants, priority needs of the sector. The
zeynep@britshish.com many of whom work in food Kebab Industry needs to act now,
businesses has caused operating before it is too late.
Published By BritShish Limited
costs to rise. A large number of
7a Grovelands Road, N13 4RJ
Telephone 02088862999 businesses are at risk of closure, Best,
Email info@britshish.com especially in small residential
areas. Timur Ekingen
BRITSHISH 3
SLICES
FOR UNBELIEVABLE
MELT AMAZING
TASTE
Brought to you by
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@KerrymaidDairy
INFO
“You say kebab, we say yeeros...”
Definition of Kebab
O
xford dictionary definition:
a dish of pieces of meat,
fish, or vegetables roasted
or grilled on a skewer or
spit.
The origin of the word kebap - the
Turkish word - is from kabāb and can
be traced back to Mesopotamia. The
word itself, therefore, would have
arrived in
Turkey though the Urdu and
Persian languages before finding
common pronunciation in the
Turkish language. Its original
meaning, in its simplest form is: meat
cooked with flames. the origins of the dish itself, believed
Doner kebab is defined in the to be a method born out of necessity.
Oxford Dictionary as a Turkish dish Cooking fuel, like wood, was sparse
consisting of spiced lamb, cooked on in the Middle East hence the meat
a spit and served in slices, typically was cut up in smaller pieces to save
with pitta bread. which means ‘rotating’ / ‘roast meat’. on energy.
The term, and the style of cooking, Shawarma is a combination of these The cooked meat has long been
is widely believed to have originated two roots. served on plates, in sandwiches, or in
from Bursa. Haci İskender, whose In English, kebab, with no bowls.
family still serves the dish, was said qualification, generally refers more The traditional meat for kebab
to have come up with the vertical specifically to shish kebab, derived is lamb, although local tastes and
cooking technique during the late- from the Turkish şiş kebap, which religious prohibitions mean that it
Ottoman period. again owes its roots to the Middle may now be beef, goat, chicken or
By then kebabs were already very Eastern word kabāb, passed into fish. Like many other dishes, kebab
much part of Turkish cuisine with the Turkish language through the has become an international cuisine,
Fatih Sultan Mehmet known to eat Persian sheesh kabob. Again the finding popularity around the globe.
a kebab a day. A special section of meaning is literal: chunks of meat on Today the meat is often marinated
the Topkapi Palace kitchen was a skewer. in yogurt and flavoured with bell
separated for the specific task of This is paired with the second pepper flakes, salt and black pepper.
cooking this new delicacy. part of the term kabob which means Cinnamon, coriander seeds and
The word is also Arabic word, cooked over or next to a flame. There pomegranate juice might also be
šāwirma (shawarma), originating can be an emphasis placed on the added for extra flavour. There are
from the Turkish word döner kebap meat being “small”, which hints at similar dishes cooking methods
across Europe but there are
distinctions. For instance, doner is
different to gyros- the Greek pork
spit that contains ample amounts
of oregano and is served in bigger
chunks than doner which is cut very
thinly. An important factor in cutting
doner, is to avoid pressing the knife
on the spit otherwise the fat will be
pushed out and the meat will become
dry as it rotates.
BRITSHISH 5
6 BRITSHISH
SEC TOR
Forty
London had the highest number
of new company formations with
221,373 companies registered,
followed by second city Birmingham
takeaways
(14,509) and Manchester (9,064).
However, Bournemouth and Poole –
acknowledged to be the wealthiest
places in England – were in sixth place
launch per day
trumping Liverpool and Edinburgh as
entrepreneurial hotspots.
Nationally, there are now 105,410
foodie businesses across the UK.
A
That’s up from 103,615 in 2018, and is
round 40 new takeaways companies, and 347 distillery an increase of 45 per cent since 2010,
launched every day in 2019. businesses also launched in the year. when there were just 72,580.
Food delivery and street- Despite the overall increase in
food start-ups received a restaurants across the county, a The rising popularity of
huge boost in the UK as records show number of food chains have been Street food
that 53% more take-away food shops hit hard over the last few years with Street food in particular has
and mobile street vendors opened the likes of Prezzo, Giraffe, Jamie’s been the source of great influence
than licensed restaurants in 2019. Italian, Cafe Rouge, Loch Fyne, pulling for both foodservice and retail in
As evidence of the impact that out of towns. recent years, and this will continue
food delivery start-ups and street These are some of the findings of to grow as increased access to these
food are having, 14,363 new take- the Centre for Entrepreneurs’ sixth types of retailers shape consumers’
away food shops and mobile food annual analysis of Companies House consumption habits.
stands registered in 2019, greatly data. The latest Companies House The UK street food market has
outnumbering both licensed data, as analysed by the Centre, consistently grown faster than the
restaurants (9,405) and unlicensed shows that business formations total fast food market, starting from a
restaurants and cafes (7,182). Ten reached a new record of 681,704 in much smaller base. It is estimated to
new wine producers, 314 brewing 2019. reach a total value of £1.2bn in 2018.
BRITSHISH 7
HISTORY
NIYAZI USTA
One of first doner shops
in the UK
T
he Niyazi Steak & Kebab
house was opened in 1970
on Mare Street, Hackney
in East London. The doner
kebab shop was also probably the
second or third of its kind to be
opened in England.
At first Ali Niyazi , a Turkish
entrepreneur from Cyprus and
his family had a hard time getting
Londoners to even enter the shop
and try this new foreign food that
they had never seen before, some
remarking “what is that a sponge
cake?” as they stared quizzically at
the doner kebab in front of them.
By 1976 Niyazi was the place to
be, with many delicious Turkish
kebab dishes on offer, including
Halep (Aleppo), Bursa, shish, sheftali
(peach) and kofte kebabs, not to
mention excellent quality steaks and
lamb chops. Complementing the
excellent food was Turkish music
which many Londoners had never
Owner of Niyazi Usta, Niyazi Ali (right)
heard before. The large restaurant
used to be packed with very happy
diners getting a true Turkish dining spiced with a wonderful meaty taste
experience night after night. and slightly chewy melt in your mouth
At that time the restaurant became texture, which many Londoners could
the most popular kebab house in not get enough. Many of Niyazi’s old
London, often with large queues of customers will happily testify that
people waiting to be served delicious it was the best doner they have ever
kebabs of various kinds. Niyazi was tasted, even to this day!
most famous for the size of the doner So what was the secret behind
spits that customers were served the flavour of this doner that was so
from, which would usually weigh in adored by Londoners in its heyday? A
excess of 450 lbs! This was ground- much older but even wiser Mr Niyazi
breaking at the time, as doner spits will tell you that it is very important
of that gigantic size were unheard that the quality of the meat is of an
of, not just in England but probably excellent standard. He used the best
worldwide! lamb shoulders with the fat added to
Most importantly however, the create an even better taste from the
restaurant was known for the flavour breast of the lamb. He will also tell
and taste of the doner kebab, lightly you that you must never over spice
8 BRITSHISH
The Niyazi
Steak & Kebab House
was opened in 1970
on Mare Street,
Hackney in East London.
Osman Cinik (left)
doner meat, the trick is in keeping it the incredibly popular “The Best
simple. Keeping spices light brings Turkish Kebab” in Stoke Newington.
the flavour of the meat to the fore, Osman went on to become
because the key feature of the doner undeniably one of the best doner
kebab must be the meat itself. Finally chefs in the world and arguably the
he will tell you to be clean, and to do a best in England. His shop’s success
clean job. is unparalleled and he is famous for
Niyazi’s successes have inspired making the best tasting doner in
his former employees to pick up his England, as well as serving his kebabs
mantle. Osman Cinik worked at the from doner spits weighing over a
steak and kebab house for seven whopping 150 kg since he first opened
years before opening his own shop, his fantastic take away shop in 1984.
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INTERVIEW
If you have a kebab,
put in a Pitta!
P
itta bread has long been a them serve their dishes with pitta and Mediterranean methods. Other
defining feature of kebabs bread. Greek Cypriot-origin producers
in Britain. Unlike other Wherever kebabs have gone in are known to have played a role in
European countries where Britain, pitta has been a part of that promoting pitta in the UK too.
kebabs are more commonly eaten journey too! While kebabs were traditionally
in wraps, pitta is the flatbread of enjoyed with rice, salad and bread
choice for most kebab-hungry Brits. How Pitta became part of the on the side, many kebab businesses
The love affair between the British British Kebab Industry started to serve their kebab dishes
kebab and pitta first started in the Early founders of the British such as doner inside small pitta
early 1970s, and the pair has been Kebab Industry say that one loaves after buying Eghoyan’s
inseparable ever since! particular baker played a huge role products. It was pitta that played
The kebab first started to boom in paving the way for the dream team an important role in transforming
in Britain in the 1990s and nowadays partnership that is the kebab in kebabs in Britain from packaged
almost every single British town has pitta. takeaways and sit-down meals
at least one kebab vendor, takeaway In Britain the concept of serving into the dish that busy consumers
or restaurant in some shape or meat inside pitta originated with now devour while on the go. In the
form. From big city high streets to the Armenian entrepreneur and 1990s, when kebab businesses were
sleepy seaside towns, there are now pitta pioneer Sarkis Eghoyan who starting to mushroom up and down
an estimated 17,000 kebab shops developed his own flatbread recipe the country, pitta bread was almost
all over the UK and most if not all of based on traditional Middle Eastern always identified with— and more
10 BRITSHISHINTERVIEW
importantly eaten with — the iconic
doner kebab.
Though many pitta producers and
distributors were originally Greek
Cypriot, the flatbread does not
originate in Cyprus. Pitta has been a
traditional staple of the Middle East
for as long as anyone can remember.
The bread is baked round with a
pocket in the middle for fillings and
must be prepared using ovens at
intensely high temperatures of at
least 700° F (roughly 370° C). A pitta
loaf ’s pocket is made by steam which
puffs the dough up as the bread
bakes. The bread becomes flat again
as it cools but leaves a pocket in the
middle - ready to be filled with kebab
meat and salad!
The pockets in pitta bread loaves
make them perfect for sandwiches,
snacks, and other types of food
that you eat with your hands. Pitta
is especially popular with Middle
Eastern dishes such as shawarma
and falafel.
Though originally from the Middle
East as mentioned above, pitta
bread is known in the UK by a Greek
name. The word pitta comes from
the Greek word for “flat” or “solid”.
Greek pitta bread however is usually
made thicker, without a pocket, and
is instead wrapped around fillings
as a single-layer rather than stuffed
with them. Greek-style pitta is also Andrew Charalambous
used for scooping up sauces and dips
such as hummus or tzatziki.
In changing the way in which they Andrew Junior has successfully Hollyland and Arnaouti.
baked the flatbread to leave that expanded the business and taken His firm has since branched out
iconic pocketed finish, British pitta over from his father, who is still from pitta and now bakes a wider
producers set themselves apart from keenly interested in his son’s work. variety of flatbreads such as tortillas
this style. In 2007, they bought Eghoyan’s and chapatis as well. In 2014, the
Pitta Bakery and started selling the group expanded its manufacturing
The Michael’s Pitta Group, bread to wholesalers, as well as to capacity by opening new factories in
Britain’s Leading Pitta supermarket chains. Hertfordshire and the Netherlands.
Producer The young and successful The company now exports to
The pitta bread sector, which businessman now distributes pitta international clients in Europe and
started with Sarkis Eghoyan in the to a variety of outlets across Britain, Australia in addition to catering to
1970s, is now led by another dynamic from the national chain Marks and its traditional customer base up and
entrepreneur named Andrew Spencer to the renowned London down the UK.
Charalambous. cash & carry Holland Bazaar. His “British people have loved kebabs
The young executive actually company, known as The Michael’s with pitta bread since the early days”
represents the second generation Pitta Group has become the largest says Andrew. He is proud of his work
of a bread-making family. His father, pitta producer in the country. The as a British leading pitta producer
Andrew Charalambous Senior, group which includes Eghoyan’s and looks forward to continuing to
made and sold pita bread with original bakery has further expanded supply this iconic flatbread to the
his uncle more than 50 years ago. its operations with brands such as Kebab Industry for years to come.
BRITSHISH 11ONLINE
Growth of
online food
delivery in
the UK
I
n the UK 7.5 billion food deliveries
were made in 2019, an increase
in UK food deliveries of 39% in
three years according to data
from Barclaycard and UK consumer
research organisation NPD Group’s
report. Nearly half of the nation’s
Takeaway.com
credit and debit card transactions,
reveals that spending on essentials
declined 0.9 per cent in December
overall but pubs and takeaways saw
wins battle to
substantial rises in spending.
Takeaway and delivered food sales
today is a major revenue stream for
the UK restaurant industry thanks
buy Just Eat
to online ordering. Restaurants are
benefiting significantly from soaring
demand for ready-to-eat meals,
professionally prepared, and ordered
T
online, to be eaten at home.
akeaway.com wins battle to underestimating the investment According to the MCA Foodservice
buy Just Eat needed to fend off rivals such as Delivery Report 2018, food delivery
Food delivery firm Uber Eats and Amazon.com. More was worth £8.1 billion in 2018 –
Takeaway.com will buy UK- than 80 per cent of Just Eat’s up +13.4% year-on-years – and
based rival Just Eat in a £5.9bn deal shareholders have accepted the contributed to 8% of the foodservice
after a bruising takeover battle. The bid, passing the threshold of 50 market. Sixty percent of UK adults are
deal will create one of the world’s per cent needed to make the offer active* delivery users who, typically,
largest meal delivery companies. unconditional. If the remaining people in the UK order 34 takeaways
Dutch giant Takeaway.com was shareholders do not agree before 31 a year, spending between £10 and £15
bidding against tech investment firm January Takeaway can force the deal a time.
Prosus. through without their backing.
The merged company, which Just Eat is the market leader
will be led by Takeaway chief in Britain’s rapidly expanding
executive Jitse Groen, will have its food delivery market but it faces
headquarters in Amsterdam and a increasing competition from rivals
listing in London. such as Deliveroo and Uber Eats.
The joint group will bring together Takeaway has likewise expanded
businesses that process 360 million quickly in its home markets of
annual orders worth €7.3bn (£6.6bn). Germany and the Netherlands and a
The fight to buy Just Eat began race is now on to become the globally
in August, when Takeaway struck dominant player.
a management-backed deal to buy The combined firm will have 23
Just Eat that would see Takeaway subsidiaries, mostly in Europe but
holding a 48% stake in the combined also in Canada, Australia and Latin
firm. Prosus argued Takeaway was America.
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A takeaway
plan rejected
over obesity
concerns
A
council planning chief have
rejected another takeaway
plan for the area, citing
their continued efforts
to promote healthy eating in the
town. Plans had been submitted
to Hartlepool Borough Council to
convert a vacant shop in the town
into a hot food takeaway.
Some residents and council staff
raised concerns over the amount of
takeaways in a small area and how
this goes against council efforts to
ASK restaurant
advocate healthy eating. Council
planning officers moved to refuse
the application for the takeaway,
with concerns also raised from the
fined over
council’s public health department
over the impact it could have over
obesity in the town.
The most recent data from
‘misleading’
Public Health England highlights
Hartlepool has around 160 hot
food take-away outlets per 100,000
T
people, which is significantly higher
than the national average of about he Italian restaurant chain This came after the lack of lobster
96. ASK has been fined for in the dish was spotted by a Trading
The latest figures also show that misleading customers Standards officer during a routine
24.1% of reception age children and about a lobster dish. visit to a branch in the city.
43.8% of Year 6 pupils in Hartlepool The Aragosta e Gamberoni Sales of the dish amounted to £3m
are classified as having excess (lobster and king prawns) dish across the UK since it was launched
weight. contained a mixture of 35% lobster in 2014, though the charge spanned
and 34% white fish, plus other the period between 1 December 2016
ingredients, formed to look like and 20 March 2019 - when Swansea
lobster meat, an investigation has Trading Standards alerted ASK and
revealed. it removed the dish from its menu.
The dish, the most expensive on ASK apologised for what it
the menu, retailed at £14.95 while the described as an error, and accepted
cost of the raw ingredients was only that without reference to white
£2.84. fish, the menu description was
The chain was fined £40,000 on incomplete and likely to mislead.
Tuesday for misleadingly describing It denied having a financial
food. motivation and said the item had
Azzuri Restaurants Limited, which the lowest profit margin of all the
trades as ASK Italian, admitted the restaurant’s pasta dishes, adding
charge at Swansea Magistrates’ there was no health and safety risk
Court last November. associated with this case.
14 BRITSHISHSELL
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B, Watkins House, Pegamoid Rd, London N18 2NG,FEAT URE How the kebab transformed an ordinary street in North London 16 BRITSHISH
FEAT URE
added to the restaurant’s allure as an
alternative spot.
Ali Usta is one of the oldest Turk-
ish restaurant operators in the UK,
...It smells of kebab who is also remembered for running
one of the country's best-known fast
every evening food brands, Wimpy. Beginning in
on weekdays. At the 1960s, Ali also employed a large
number of Turks who came to the UK
weekends, it begins from Cyprus.
In the 1970s, those migrants began
at noon... to be joined by others from mainland
Turkey. Ali Usta’s operations were
particularly low-cost to run, allowing
them to spread widely. They were
T
also an excellent source of employ-
hat was the objection to the ment, providing jobs to hundreds of
council from one Harringay migrants from Turkey. Ali Usta, now
Green Lanes resident, after at an advanced age, lives a quiet life
the restaurant they lived these days, but his legacy remains in
next to applied to extend its opening place forever.
hours. But it was not just Ali Usta who
Today, there are dozens of restau- helped drive a culinary revolu-
rants serving food 365 days a year on tion that would help create today’s
Green Lanes. This part of North Lon- Little Turkey in Green Lanes. Other
don has since been dubbed “Little Turkish Cypriots have been living in
Turkey” by the Harringay Green significant numbers in Britain since
Lanes Traders’ Association, which the 1950s, and many of them set up
represents local businesses. restaurants as family businesses.
The most prominent dish on Many offered take-away services.
menus across the street? The kebab. But it was relatively recently – the
BritShish wanted to find out how late 1990s – when Turks entered the
the street has been transformed UK food sector in an effective, influ-
over the years to become London’s ential way.
Little Turkey. This was triggered partly by the
Various sources often point to the closure of textile workshops ear-
1970s for the introduction of do- lier in the decade. London’s textile
ner to the UK. The claims are often industry mostly employed Turkish-
linked to the arrival of Turkish and speakers, but it plunged into decline
Greek Cypriots, along with migrants following a recession that hit the
from Turkey. country after Black Monday in 1992.
In fact, the first doner kebab It drove many in the community to
enterprise on record in London seek employment and profit in the
was a shop called Hodja Nasreddin food sector instead.
which opened on Newington Green This had a knock-on effect as em-
near Harringay Green Lanes in 1966. ployment prospects for newcomers
Owners Cetin Bukey and wife Konjay attracted migrants from the Turkish
Huseyin believed doner would be as mainland rather than Cyprus.
popular in the UK as it already was in This second wave of Turkish immi-
Turkey, Cyprus and Germany. gration mainly included both ethnic
They were right. Hodja Nasreddin Turks and Kurds. Willing and skilled
was to become something of a bohe- in the retail trade, they found new
mian food outlet for those looking opportunities in life that the first
for a different eating experience. The wave of migrants had created.
Turkish presence wasn’t as visible The high demand for kebabs was
in Britain as it was in Germany and now met with sufficient supply, help-
the spinning meat on a vertical spit ing to create a British love for kebabs
was slower to take hold, but that only that manifested itself in today’s
BRITSHISH 17FEAT URE Harringay Green Lanes. Kebab restaurants changed Today kebab restaurants, for so the street long the undisputed rulers of the fast In a classic example of London food sector in Germany, are spread- neighbourhood cycles, the Turks fol- ing even to the smallest towns in the lowed a generation later, followed by UK. In just a few years, thousands of Poles. The area has seen a constant Turks have since moved into restau- transformation in its population. rant, café, takeaway and greengrocer Harringay is now the most densely management, where they have put populated and traded region for Lon- their extensive experience to good don’s Turkish-speakers – a commu- use. nity that begins in Newington Green But what of Harringay, the district and extends along Green Lanes, past that is known as “Little Turkey” Manor House, as far north as Palm- today? It has a modern history trace- ers Green. able to 1880. Its formation was ini- Today, Green Lanes is renowned tially due to the pressure of housing throughout the country for its kebab expansion in Islington and Hackney. restaurants. Many shops on the For 20 years, Harringay was a street are food businesses serving building site. It was when the railway different types of kebab. The first stations came and, later, a race track thing you notice when walking along opened in the 1930s that Harringay the street, especially in the evening, became more widely known. It is is the aroma of grilled meat rising even said that Harringay developed from the shops. The restaurants out- because of route 29, once a tram, strip their central London counter- Others – like Gaziantep and Diyar- now a bus route, that connected the parts, able to accommodate up up to bakir – help make locals familiar with neighbourhood with central London. 300 people at once and offer them a the names of cities in the country. Initially a predominantly white delicious range of kebabs beyond the One restaurant manager who has British neighbourhood, Harringay most common types, namely doner worked in Harringay for ten years housed the ambitious working and or shish. said that since the area and its res- lower middle classes. In the 1970s, Local Brits have even started pick- taurants were revamped, the kebab however, Greek Cypriots began to ing up Turkish words from restau- has become a mainstream dish. settle in the areas that had hitherto rant names like Hala which means “More British people have started been dominated by West Indians. aunt, or Gokyuzu which means sky. to come here,” he said. 18 BRITSHISH
FEAT URE
It's the real
01
Kebabs are the most common Kebab Street
and dominant food on the
street. I have completed 53 years in the
area. Until the late 1980s, there was
only one steak house, two or three
food businesses with grilled kebabs
on its menu, and they were run by
Cypriot immigrants. The change
in the street began with the 1990s,
02 when the number of restaurants
began to rise. Diyarbakir was the
There are around 20 varieties,
of kebab including Adana, first – and it is still running.
shish and iskender. We should not pass by without
mentioning a Turkish entrepreneur,
Musa Tas, when we talk about
Sefik Mehmet – Chair of Harringay
restaurants. Musa is the founder
Traders Association
of three of the biggest restaurants
locally and attracted many investors
to the region. He passed away last streets have started to attract
03 year.
The food festivals we organised
customers not only from those living
in the neighbourhood but also from
Up to 3,500 people can having
a meal in Harringay Green in 2009 and 2011 contributed different parts of London and even
Lanes at the same time. greatly to making the region one from different cities. On a Sunday,
of London's dining centres. Over you can meet customers from almost
the years, the restaurants on our all over the UK.
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The family who changed
Green Lanes
How Diyarbakır’s concept in Harringay has sustained
a family from grandfather to grandson
W
ithout doubt, one of their second location at 69 Grand and effort into the 170-seat capacity
the most important Parade across the road. They named Diyarbakir Kitchen concept instead.
reasons why Harringay the new venture Diyarbakir on the Its menu features not just the kebab
Green Lanes has be- suggestion of an acquaintance, and and grill dishes that became popular
come a renowned centre for food and the menu was enriched with tradi- in the UK in the 1990s, but a range
drink is Diyarbakir Restaurant. It is tional dishes. of soups and home cooking that is
the magnet for thousands of home- It set an example for many investors. unique to Turkey. Diyarbakir has
sick Turkish and Kurdish migrants to After the Aksu family, a few more become a calling point not just for
the UK who visit the area in search of restaurants – such as Erenler and Turks and Kurds, but for other
the meals they love. It is also the old- Serhat – started to operate on the ethnic minorities who share a similar
est example of a Turkish restaurant street. One of the most important culinary culture with Turkey and
in Harringay. features that make Diyarbakir res- Harringay’s local residents.
Founded in 1991, it takes its name taurant different is the fact that the And it is not just the restaurant
from the city popularly known as the family has been working on Harrin- sector: food and groceries are slowly
Kurdish cultural capital, a town that gay Green Lanes since 1991. becoming an important sector for
has hosted countless civilisations The family-run business has al- Diyarbakir as well. It is all contribut-
over the centuries. After the Great ways refused the idea of turning its ing to the creation of a zone resem-
Wall of China, Diyarbakir has the restaurant into a chain or franchise, bling Soho’s Chinatown in North
longest city walls in the world. preferring instead to invest its time London.
That year Hasan Aksu made an The friendly atmosphere is easily
interesting and unusual investment one of the most important aspects
in North London, where he had been of Diyarbakir Kitchen. The three
for around five years. The region brothers – Zülfikar, Doğan and Erkan
that Aksu chose as a place of invest- Aksu – went on to assume control
ment would become famous about a of the business from their father Ali
quarter of a century later as one of Aksu and paid special attention to
the most renowned dining centres maintaining a high standard of food
for Turkish food in the country. and service. The brothers are well-
The restaurant, which also served known to just about every customer
as a coffeehouse at the back, was and local resident.
branded as an International Ocak- Hasan Aksu, meanwhile, represents
basi (grill house) by the Aksu family, the third Aksu generation. The son
and its menu consisted only of ke- of Zülfikar he has been working hard
babs. It quickly became popular. At to maintain the record set by his
first it was a great challenge for the grandfather, father and uncles by
family to operate in a country where taking a particular interest in the
they did not know the language or quality of the ingredients the restau-
regulations very well. rant uses.
The family worked from number 441 He says Diyarbakir Kitchen is a
for nearly three years – the property marked set up from their first shop
is now the only Vietnamese restau- and hopes every customer will feel
rant in the area – before moving to themselves at home inside.
Diyarbakir's founder Hasan Aksu
20 BRITSHISHHasan Aksu and his sons Zulfikar (left) and Erkan (right)
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Owner Ahmet Üstünsürmeli
Doner kebab with
British beef, Turkish tradition
A
ntepliler Restaurant has Antepliler’s main restaurant opened yoghurt.
been a fixture of Harrin- on Green Lanes in 2003. Iskender is a difficult dish to get
gay Green Lanes for over It is actually a chain of eateries right, which is why many Turkish
twenty years and is one of based next door to each another: restaurants succeed only in serving
the principle reasons why the area is Antepliler Baklava and Antepliler imitations. Antepliler serves the real
known as “Little Turkey”. Künefe are both dedicated to serving thing!
It takes its name from the south- some of the highest quality desserts Many have argued that the Isk-
eastern Anatolian town of Gaziantep from south eastern Turkey, building ender Kebab – in particular, the man-
and serves traditional dishes and fla- on the restaurant’s successes. ner in which the meat is cut – is in
vours unique to the region. Anteplil- The most recent addition to the fact a precursor to the doner kebab
er’s owner Ahmet Üstünsürmeli, who group is Antepliler Döner, which will itself. It is prepared by stacking large
came to the area in 1999, now runs alter your impression of the take- pieces of meat vertically, which is
five shops along the street. away meal in an instant. The Iskend- why the meat strips are larger.
He is known for having introduced er Kebab – so-called after its inven- It is said that Iskender Efendi,
genuine Iskender Doner Kebab to tor, the Turkish name for Alexander who first marketed the dish in 1867,
Harringay, as well as popular des- – is Turkey’s most popular kebab developed the technique while trying
serts like baklava and kunefe. Mr dish. It was invented in the north to find a way to ensure the differ-
Üstünsürmeli comes from Gaziantep western city of Bursa in the 19th cen- ent flavours of lamb meat would be
and set up his first bakery in 1993. By tury and includes doner meat served distributed evenly on a plate. He also
1999 he was in Harringay, making the on a bed of pide bread, with generous pioneered the concept of vertically
first authentic baklava in London. portions of butter, tomato sauce and cooking the meat on a spit.
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From father
to sons;
Gökyüzü's
success
story
Owner Veysel Yavuz
T
he restaurant in Harringay Hasan Yavuz first came to London in The restaurant introduced high
that pioneered the area’s 1995 and set up Gökyüzü restaurant quality, delicious Turkish meals
style of dining known as four years later. He brought his son and presented them in a different,
the ocakbaşı style of dining Veysel along with him; then aged more aesthetic way. This caught
– which refers to the placement of only fifteen, Veysel divided his time the attention first of local residents
charcoal grills inside the restaurant between school and helping his and then of people living in different
itself – now attracts customers who father. parts of London. It soon meant that
queue right down the pavement to eat Hasan subsequently handed customers would start forming long
there. the business over to his sons and queues outside Gökyüzü, come rain
Gökyüzü is probably the first brother. The new generation of or shine.
restaurant in the whole London management has seen Gökyüzü Gökyüzü’s upmarket ocakbaşı
Borough of Haringey where spread from Harringay to open concept caught the attention of the
customers first formed long queues branches in Chingford, Finchley and media with acclaimed publications
outside. From salads to mezes, and Walthamstow. like Time Out and many newspapers
from delicious dishes to quality wines, It is 35-years-old Veysel who now reviewing it.
Gökyüzü has become one of the most runs the business in Harringay. He
talked-about Turkish restaurants in says that even though they have
London on social media. Countless plans for investment in other parts of
customers use TripAdvisor, Twitter London, their Harringay restaurant is
and Facebook to share their their first love and they are
comments, photos and experiences of hoping to develop it even
the restaurant. further.
Gökyüzü is the Turkish word for
sky, and even London’s Turkish
speakers have started to think of the
restaurant before they think of the
heavens above.
The turning point for Gökyüzü,
which was established by Hasan
Yavuz in 1999 and is now capably run
by his son Veysel, came in 2010 when
its existing restaurants were enlarged
and they adopted a new ambiance.
24 BRITSHISHLO CAL
FEAT URE
LIFE
Two brothers run
Harringay’s largest
restaurant
S
the food sector for 20 years. Hailing
elale Restaurant is one of from Bingol in southeast Turkey, they
the most distinctive spots came to the UK almost 15 years ago,
on Green Lanes because of and like other Turkish gastronomers
the extensive seating area at found their way to Harringay almost
the front of its premises. Established immediately. They have brought their
for 15 years, it has become known for own particular twists on dishes with
its impressive collection of the finest them. The mezes in particular are
Turkish and Mediterranean cuisines. more traditional than other dishes
Selale means waterfall in Turkish, on the menu and are provided in
which is why there is a small waterfall very generous sampler plates. Kebab
in the middle of the restaurant made platters come stacked with generous,
with original water stones. The lightly charred cubes of meat that
restaurant also features images of Selale’s owner, Sabri Barackilic (left) more than compensate for the plain
waterfalls on its menus. Another new and his brother Ramazan (right) rice and cabbage accoutrements.
and distinctive feature is the designer The lamb, fish and chicken are
lighting fixtures, specially made intimate feel while catering for more cooked on skewers over a charcoal
for the restaurant to keep lighting people. The recently completed grill in the main restaurant, while
at the right level and keep with the renovations provide space for 240 elaborate pide dishes are slow baked
restaurant’s concept. diners, with there being another 60 in a brick oven at the back.
Demand was outstripping supply so spaces outside. It is fair to say that reopening of
the restaurant closed for expansion. Selale’s owner, Sabri Barackilic and Selale has been deemed a resounding
The aim was to keep the same his brother Ramazan have been in success.
26 BRITSHISHBRITSHISH 27
FEAT URE
Owner of Hala Restaurant
Yilmaz Aksu
Taste of tradition and
home-style food
I
t has become a common sight morning. meal specially prepared using minced
to see Anatolian women sitting The restaurant was established chicken or lamb char-grilled and
at the windows of Turkish in 2002 and is the work of Yılmaz seasoned with herbs, wrapped in
restaurants hand-rolling out Aksu and Eren Uzun, who have been flatbread and served with butter,
balls of dough with thin rolling pins. working in the food sector since their yoghurt and tomato sauce.
They are preparing gözleme, a childhood years and decided 13 years The restaurant which has recently
traditional Turkish savoury pastry ago to pour all their experience into a changed, expanded and been
made with cheese, meat or vegetable restaurant. redecorated, is composed of a total of
varieties, before being thrown over a Hala is not just a place for the usual three shops. Around 250 people can
griddle known as a saç. meat and grill dishes, but also offers sit at the same time and be served
Hala was the first restaurant in a variety of Turkish home-cooking in from Hala’s large eye-catching grill
London to bring the gözleme chefs Harringay. A well-known traditional and bar.
out of the kitchen and to the store meal available at Hala is manti, a type Initially a traditional and authentic
front; other restaurants have since of stuffed dumplings also known restaurant in both its name and
followed suit. as “Turkish tortelloni.” Usually menu, Hala has become one of the
Hala means ‘aunt’ in Turkish stuffed with meat, manti is eaten in a most modern dining places in North
— a name that’s reflected in the delicious tomato sauce with yoghurt London. The restaurant, which has
generosity of the home-style food, and garlic. preserved its traditional menu, is
and by the sight of Turkish aunties Another popular dish served at open from early morning until late at
making gözleme in the window every Hala is sarma beyti, a mouth-watering night.
28 BRITSHISHINDUSTRY NEWS
UK food and drink sector
grows The report also indicates that a
large element of this growth is coming
from overseas with sales abroad up
by just under one quarter in the last
UK is a net importer of food and drink
by quite some margin with a total
import value of £46 billion compared
to exports worth £23 billion in 2018.
B
two years alone. The EU remains the This means the UK imports twice as
ritain’s food and drink biggest total market accounting for much food and drink as it exports and
sector is growing despite just under two thirds (61%) of exports highlights the critical need to avoid
the uncertain political and worth £13.9 billion, with Ireland the border and customs checks on fresh
economic climate according largest single destination (21.4% food coming into the UK post-Brexit.
to a report published by Make UK, worth £4.2 billion) closely followed A new report on the industry by Make
the manufacturers’ organisation and by The Netherlands, France, the USA UK and Santander revealed that
Santander. and Germany. However, the Rest of this is the highest level since 2004,
The report shows the sector is the World is seeing significant growth as rising sales outpace efficiencies
worth 15.9% of total manufacturing with sales to Asia & Oceania up by created by new technology.
GVA with sales in 2018 of £85.6 295% in the last twenty years and Describing this growth as showing
billion, a sharp increase of 7.6% in in the same period by 260% to the that food and drink manufacturing is
just two years from 2016. As a result, United States. the “hardiest in the field,” the study
the sector is now a major employer Globally the UK is the fourth largest attributed the consistent expansion
across the UK with some 440,000 food importer in the world and the to the sector’s “inherent resilience to
employees, up 5.3% since 2016 and second largest drink importer. This recessions.”
now at the highest level for fifteen highlights that notwithstanding the
years. sector’s positive export growth, the
The food and
drink industry
contributes
£85.6bn to the UK
economy.
30 BRITSHISHTU P N
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U TIO
PACT SO L
COM ES S
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RE
ARCHITECTURAL DRAWINGS AND DESIGN
BRITSHISH 31EMPLOYMENT
11,000
restaurant jobs
lost in 2019
9
22 restaurant branches
closed their doors last year
according to the Centre for
Retail Research. The overall
number of casual dining restaurants
that shut last year was actually less
than in 2018, the figures suggest as
fell by more than a fifth from 1,188 in
2018.
2019 saw the likes of Jamie’s Italian,
National living
Patisserie Valerie and Giraffe close
dozens of outlets it recorded a total
of 11,280 job losses across the entire
casual dining sector in the UK during
wage to rise by
2019 versus 10,413 in 2018. The data,
from shows that total job losses in the
sector rose by 8%, however.
Experts said that maintaining
6.2% in April
quality standards had proved
difficult, leading to the need to cut
costs caused by the sector’s over-
expansion, greater competition and
T
weak consumer demand.
he national living wage is aged 25 and over which came into In 2018, that squeeze saw the
to rise by 6.2% in what the effect on 1 April 2016. As of April 2019 likes of Gourmet Burger Kitchen,
government says is “the it is £8.21 per hour for those aged 25 Carluccio’s, Prezzo, Chimichanga and
biggest cash increase ever”. and over, £7.70 for those aged 21–24, Byron all shut outlets, with a total
The rise is more than four times the £6.15 for ages 18-20. Minimum wage of 622 chain-operated restaurants
rate of inflation and takes hourly pay for 16-17 is currently £4.35. closing. That fell by 46% to 337 in
for people over 25 to £8.72 from April. And in September the government 2019.
The national living wage is the accepted a recommendation from the The balance of the closures came
government-mandated minimum Low Pay Commission that the new, from independents, according to
wage for over 25-year-olds. The higher minimum should gradually be the CRR, which predicts that the
minimum wage for under-25s will also phased in for younger workers over main problems in 2020 are likely to
rise. 21. be found among the independents,
From April 2020, the new rates are: The government also said it will which often lack the resources to
• The National Living Wage for ages press ahead with recommendations reinvest or change their business
25 and above - up 6.2% to £8.72 by the Low Pay Commission to model.
• The National Minimum Wage for 21 allow workers over 21 to receive the
to 24-year-olds - up 6.5% to £8.20 national living wage by 2024 when it is
• For 18 to 20-year-olds - up 4.9% to set to reach £10.50 an hour.
£6.45 In the meantime The Living
• For under-18s - up 4.6% to £4.55 Wage Foundation calculates a
• For apprentices - up 6.4% to £4.15 separate, non-binding wage level
The National Minimum Wage was which it describes as a fair level of
introduced by a Labour government pay, reflecting the cost of living.
20 years ago and a rebranded Around 6,000 UK employers pay this
National Living Wage after 2016. It’s voluntary “real living wage” of £9.30,
an obligatory minimum wage payable or £10.75 for those in London.
to workers in the United Kingdom
32 BRITSHISHBUSINE S S
Altan Kemal 1- Some of the restaurants do not pay service
charges to their staff. What are the legal liabilities on
this? Do staffs have any legal rights?
Service charges are not tips so do have to be
distributed to the staff. An employer may choose to
do so but it is entirely at his/her discretion.
Altan Kemal is a Chartered Accountant. 2- Take away businesses are engaging with Uber
He came to the UK in 1973, graduating in Business Eat or Just Eat to increase their sells by delivery using
Management before qualifying and starting a their services which is bound to terms and conditions.
career in accountancy. He subsequently founded Could these contracts or deals with them considered
his own London-based firm in 1983, as expenses as around 25% to 35% of profits are
named Alton & Co. (Chartered Accountants & shared with third party?
Statutory Auditors).
As regards Uber Eats, Just Eat, Deliveroo etc
Altan is happy to answer any questions from the commissions charged by them are allowable
BritShish readers. You can send him your business expenses and can be claimed in the
questions via info@britshish.com. normal way.
Government commits to
business rates review
T
he government has meaning it is partly based on where a of a property is calculated every
confirmed its commitment commercial premises is located, high five years, and so businesses paying
to a review of business rates street based businesses have been rates based on the value of a high
in today’s Queen Speech, hit harder than some online retailers street location could be paying them
and stated that revaluations will be that have their warehouses located in at a level that might not reflect the
held on a three-year cycle from 2021. more remote locations. declining popularity of high streets
All retail businesses with a rateable Part of the problem is that under in recent years.
value of £51,000 or less will see an the current system the rateable value
increase in their business rates
discount from 33% to 50% in 2020.
Independent pubs will also see their
bills cut by a further £1,000.
Under the government’s plans,
the next review date has been
moved forward to 2021 and rates
revaluations will now take place every
three years instead of five.
Business rates are a tax on a
business’s property. Because the
calculation for business rates is made
on the basis of its ‘rateable’ value,
BRITSHISH 33INDUSTRY NEWS
Meat retail sales
decline
F
resh meat sales are in
decline in 2019. According
to exclusive Nielsen data for
The Grocer’s Top Products
Survey reveals sales has dropped by
£184.6m after volumes fell 2.8%.
Also every sector of red meat is in
decline in last 12 months as Beef led
the way with a £77.3m drop, while
bacon fell £45.5m and pork shed
£21.1m. But even poultry lost value,
with rotisserie products, turkey and
duck sales suffering a combined
£20.2m blow. Chicken was the only “2019 has seen a rise in meat- inflationary pressures have eased,
sector in growth, with sales up by free and free-from categories, as leading to a fall in average prices.
£19.1m. consumers become more health Salmon prices are down 3.6%, while
With concerns also about the and environmentally-conscious and king prawns are down 4.7%. That
environmental impact of meat, veganism hits the mainstream,” said has led to a 1.2% rise in volume sales
plant-based emerged as the fastest- Mike Watkins, head of retailer and of fresh fish, equating to an extra
growing category in the Top Products business insight at Nielsen. 5.4 million units. The effect was
Survey, up 18% to be worth over Brits are also eating more fish, particularly apparent in salmon,
£400m. the data suggests. Long-standing which saw a 5.6% increase in volumes.
Asda to scrap fresh
A
SDA has announced it will
close shut counters inside
stores across the UK. The
meat counters supermarket giant is closing
all of its in store meat and fish counters
and replacing them with ‘food to go’
counters.
The traditional supermarket staples
will be scrapped to make way for
sections selling ready to eat products,
including hot chicken, pies, sushi and
curry.
The supermarket giant has been
trying different alternatives to the
counters across 13 stores over the past
year, including partnering with brands
such as Sushi Daily and Subway, and
says it is planning more partnerships
with well known brands.
The trial also included introducing
a ‘food court’ style feature in one of its
Edinburgh branches and the counters
will be in place in 150 stores by the
end of the year, and that pre-packed
meat and fish options have become
increasingly popular with customers.
34 BRITSHISHTOP R E S I D E N T I A L
An independent family run company
since 2008.
WHETHER
YOU ARE YOUR PROPERTY
BUYING, IS IN SAFE HANDS.
SELLING,
LETTING OR
RENTING
PROPERTY,
WE WOULD BE
DELIGHTED
TO HELP
YOU.
Phone
020 8888 8860
207 High Road
Wood Green,
London N22 6DR
BRITSHISH 35
i n f o@t o p r e s i d e n t i a l.c o . u k www.topresidential.co.ukINDUSTRY NEWS
No labels for “non-stun”
slaughtered meat says Defra
T
he Department for slaughter, adding that she “would not Mandatory labelling of non-stunned
Environment, Food and have supported” previously proposed meat could have caused problems
Rural Affairs (Defra) amendments to the Agriculture Bill for kebab businesses serving or
has confirmed that the which would have made it compulsory selling foods prepared in line with
Government will not introduce labels to label un-stunned meat products. halal or kosher slaughter procedures
for meat produced with non-stun The Defra secretary added that it is by potentially singling them out
slaughter. “important for people to be able to or demonising them if had the
Defra said that the Government follow their faith” on matters relating amendment passed.
is against limitations on non-stun to slaughter.
B
ritons’ consumption of
sugar in drinks has dropped
by more than a teaspoon
per person each day due
to the ‘sugar tax’, a major study has
found.
Since 2015 the sugar in soft drinks
sold in the UK has dropped by 30 per
cent – equivalent to a daily reduction
of 4.6g per person.
That is the equivalent of cutting
out more than one teaspoon of sugar
each day. The Oxford University
researchers behind the study
credited the soft drinks levy for the
Sugar in UK soft reduction.
This policy places a levy of 24p per
litre on drinks containing more than
drinks declines 8g of sugar per 100ml, and 18p per
litre on drinks containing between 5g
and 8g per 100ml. The tax, announced
by 29% by David Cameron’s government in
2016 and brought in by Theresa May
in 2018, saw many companies reduce
the amount of sugar in their drinks to
dodge the levy.
36 BRITSHISHYou can also read
