Come On In - We're First Plates! - The Austin Chronicle
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Come On In –We’re First Plates! c e l e b r at i ng t h e b e s t i n au s t i n Fo od
“Yes, We’re Open”
Table of Contents
4 Virginia B. Wood
Hall of fame
6 doWntoWn L’Oca d’Oro John Anderson
7
W
Campus
e eat because we are alive. In the scene contributions, honor the many fallen busi- the coolest in the business. Thanks to Art Director
8 east
multiple lifetimes we’ve lived since
our last First Plates issue hit stands
nesses, and heartily welcome newbies that just
missed the cut-off. The restaurants and trailers
Zeke Barbaro for the kickass artistic vision and
kindness. And to Publisher Nick Barbaro and
10 loWer east in June 2019, that sentiment – a truth borrowed
from the inimitable Vertamae Smart-Grosvenor
spotlighted in these pages represent a colorful
cross-section of the cuisines we’re lucky enough
Editor-in-Chief Kimberley Jones: Thank you for
everything, especially your patience.
12 midtoWn – is now more apparent than ever. to have in our rapidly changing city, and they
offer more than just wonderful food and drinks.
“Food is life,” Smart-Grosvenor told us. So,
That issue’s introduction ended with my sug- despite it all, we’ll still eat. We’ll still find plea-
16 nortH & nortHWest gestion that we frequent mom-and-pop shops Their fried chicken starred in our socially sure in whatever the world dishes out, because
and open our homes and share meals, quoting distanced alfresco picnics, and their margaritas that’s our human condition. Hopefully this time
18 soutH Anthony Bourdain about world citizenship and soothed our frazzled nerves. Their friendly curb- next year, we’ll have even more to celebrate,
unfriendly bacteria. Turns out it was a global side waves were sometimes the only in-person and in the meantime, we must continue to sup-
20 soutH Congress &
soutH first
virus, actually, just a few months later that exchanges people had in days. They stayed up port our local restaurants, farmers, ranchers,
permanently etched both bold food culture writ- late creating recipe content to help stave off our and artisans. We have to nourish our bodies and
ers’ prescient words in the most unimaginable boredom, and they inspired our veggie gardens. our communities to get there. – Jessi Cape
22 soutH lamar &
Barton springs ways. Even in the areas of humanity formerly Some hosted spontaneous soup kitchens, pop-
untouched by widespread community grief; even up pantries, and free fridges. Others churned
24 West more so in those all too familiar with it. Amidst out vats of creamy comfort foods and sealed
26 trailers
the ongoing pandemic, a tsunami with after-
shocks as powerful as the first waves, all kinds
thousands of to-go containers early in the morn-
ing. Despite our collective exhaustion, chefs and
Jessi Cape’s Top 10
of essential workers showed up, and continue to line cooks and servers and bussers and farmers
show up, to pull us through crises and catastro- and ranchers and small-business owners kept
NORTH & 1) l’oca d’oro
NORTHWEST phes. For our purposes here in this exciting going. They kept us all going.
return of our annual food issue, we’re specifically This issue is one you’ll want to keep around for 2) dipdipdip tatsu-ya
celebrating some – but certainly not all – of our a while, and it takes a Chron squad to produce, 3) garbo’s fresh maine lobster
MIDTOWN
favorite food folx within the Austin city limits. especially remotely. I am grateful to work with
4) Hestia
We poured our hearts into creating this list this very special group of people. Special shout-
EAST
WEST of 100 brick-and-mortar restaurants, 50 food outs to our editorial, web, digital strategy, mar- 5) easy tiger at the linc
UT LOWER
DOWNTOWN
EAST trailers, and the six new Virginia B. Wood Hall keting, production, and other teams for keeping 6) salt traders Coastal Cooking
of Fame inductees that join almost 30 honored this machine running while my heart/soul/brain
7) Huckleberry Hospitality
spots. To “define Austin dining now” has always was under water. This year’s contributing writer
SOUTH
CONGRESS & been about so much more than just ingredients team – Lina Fisher, Melanie Haupt, Rod Machen, 8) Komé
SOUTH LAMAR & SOUTH FIRST
BARTON SPRINGS or ambience, but this year it was particularly Alisha McDarris, Katherine McNevins, Eric Puga, 9) Backdraft pizzeria
SOUTH difficult to whittle down the award recipients. Evan Rodriguez, James Scott, Adam Wood, and 10) Cherrywood Coffeehouse
We’d hand out hundreds more First Plates if pos- my life raft, Food Lieutenant Wayne Alan Brenner
sible. And we’d salute our neighbor cities’ food – alongside our world-class proofing gurus, are
2 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.com
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 3
The Austin Chronicle First Plates 100+ restaurants DeFining austin Dining now
Virginia B. Wood Hall of Fame DeFining austin
Dining always
In honor of our very own former Food editor and forever
friend to the local food community, the late, great Virginia
B. Wood, we celebrate the excellence these veterans of the
scene bring to our fair city. The intention here is to make
abundantly clear in the annals of history that this growing
group is the crème de la crème of Austin restaurants. Some
have been stalwart favorites for decades; some have seen
stratospheric success in a remarkably short time, redefin-
ing preferences and even earning mononymic recognition.
These restaurants have proven themselves influential
beyond the scope of everyday dining, and they’re unwaver-
ing in their dedication to quality, flavor, creativity, and ser-
vice. With a food scene as robust and dynamic as Austin’s,
sheer numbers indicate we must make room for newcom-
ers while honoring institutional standbys, regardless of their
official time in the biz. It’s as much an ode to the food as it
is to the herculean efforts behind the scenes. – Jessi Cape
Korea House DaviD BrenDan Hall
Barley Swine Cisco’s Korea House Mi Madre’s
6555 Burnet Rd. #400, barleyswine.com 1511 E. Sixth, ciscosaustin.com 2700 W. Anderson #501, 2201 Manor Rd., mimadresrestaurant.com
When we talk about restaurateurs that koreahouseaustin.com You’ve seen their quirky, quintessentially
Classic. Legendary. Iconic. It doesn’t
helped put Austin on the food city map, get more Hall of Fame-worthy than Long before Korean food was a popu- Austin sign and enjoyed their fun-loving
multiple James Beard Award finalist Bryce this East Sixth staple. Since 1953, when lar cuisine in the Austin restaurant scene, approach to social media, but did you know
Gilmore – executive chef and co-owner of founder Rudy “Cisco” Cisneros opened Korea House opened in 1988, and that this family-owned and -operated business
Barley Swine, Odd Duck, and Sour Duck his restaurant in a former meat-packing legions of fans, new and old, still frequent has been around since 1990? Founders Aurelio
Market – is up there with the best. In 2009, plant, Cisco’s has been slinging Tex-Mex what is considered the first Korean restau- and Rosa Torres opened their 10-seat Tex-Mex
back when our farmers’ markets were small dishes like enchiladas and migas to the rant in town. Outside seating overlooking restaurant serving hella good tacos, and over
and the food truck scene was still gestating, masses. Folks even credit Cisco’s with a lovely koi pond, twinkly lights, and the years made so many loyal fans that the
Gilmore and his brother refurbed an old making staples like huevos rancheros peaceful music all contribute to their won- business expanded to occupy the entire corner,
trailer and opened fan-favorite Odd Duck, famous – so much so that it’s literally derful ambience, but it’s the delicious and plus some. Now owned and operated by
serving only local produce and utilizing written on Cisneros’ tombstone. His consistent food that keeps customers com- Torres’ son and daughter-in-law, Edgar and
whole animals. Gilmore’s acclaimed fine din- grandson Matt Cisneros, and partners, ing back. While the menu continues to Christina Torres, the menu also boasts burritos,
ing restaurant Barley Swine opened the next bought the property several years ago expertly execute classic dishes like bibim- platos fuegos (mole enchiladas! carne guisa-
year, spotlighting his dedication to seasonal and gave it a well-deserved makeover; in bap, galbi, and seafood pajeon – and da!), and your new favorite drink menu. (If you
ingredients with an always exquisite tasting 2019, the city of Austin granted historic helped introduce banchan and one of the imbibe, don’t you dare skip the mango chamoy
menu, and the crowds went wild. The contin- designation. It’s open later these days world’s greatest condiments, kimchi, to margarita.) The Torres crew also owns nearby
uous efforts to celebrate local ranchers and and offers a bar full of cold beer, but many diners – they’re set on maintaining School House Pub and not-so-secret speakeasy
farmers, and up the ante with casual sister those beloved recipes haven’t changed a the magic with new concepts like family Techo Mezcaleria & Agave Bar. And if there’s
restaurant Sour Duck Market, an annual bit. If you love Austin’s enormous Tex-Mex meal kits for budae jjigae and Korean- one good thing about the last year, it might
almanac, and a carbon neutral initiative, are scene, be sure to stop by Cisco’s and pay style barbecue (both grilled and DIY). just be to-go margs from this truly beloved
forever seared in our hearts. homage to the OG. We’re big fans of this delightful place. Manor Road staple.
4 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.com
Musashino P. Terry’s
Sushi Dokoro Various locations, pterrys.com
If you’re wondering how a burger drive-
2905 San Gabriel #200, through earned a spot in our Hall of Fame,
musashinoatx.com
you haven’t earned your Austin stripes.
Once, on a first date in their original loca- Everyone recognizes the infamous Golden
tion off North MoPac, we may or may not Arches, but thanks to Patrick and Kathy
have mistaken their oshibori (warm towel) Terry, alongside architecture guru Michael
as a complimentary facial, only to be gently Hsu, the futuristic aesthetic of this Central
guided by the angelic server to cleanse our Texas mega-chain – more than 21 locations
hands before dinner. This is the kind of classy and counting – is also recognizable from
operation that is Musashino, which opened the highway … but for way better food and
in 1993 and has become the origin story of business practices. Since 2005, when they
several local superstars: Tyson Cole of Uchi/ opened the original location on Barton
Uchiko/Loro; Kazo Fukumoto of his epony- Springs, it’s largely been the same simple
mous restaurant; Ramen Tatsu-ya’s owners/ menu, and the ingredients are real: 100%
chefs Tatsu Aikawa and Takuya Matsumoto. Angus beef and ground chicken breast, Mrs.
The Tokyo-style restaurant, now in the for- Baird’s special buns, fresh-cut Idaho pota-
mer Fino spot in West Campus, is known for toes, house veggie patties, and more – all at
creating some of the most elegant pieces “fast food” prices. They welcome customizing
of Edomae-style sushi this side of Japan. In your combo (say yes to jalapeño and grilled
addition to an impossibly fresh, stunning tra- onions), offer breakfast sammies, and fre-
ditional menu, they offer a wide assortment quently surprise us with monthly milkshake
of modern twists, and an omakase option. specials and their staff with birthday cakes.
After spending so much time in loungewear As if we couldn’t fall any more in love, in
at home, we cannot think of a better reason 2021, a year of turmoil, P. Terry’s executives
to dust off the jacket and black dress than raised the minimum wage for all employees
dining at this world-class establishment. to $15 per hour. Heroes? We think so.
Previous years’ Hall oF Famers
2019 2017
Arlo’s, Various locations Chez Nous, Closed
Güeros Taco Bar, 1412 S. Congress Eastside Cafe, Closed
Hoover’s Cooking, 2002 Manor Rd. Home Slice Pizza, 1415 S. Congress
Hopdoddy Burger Bar, Various locations Quality Seafood Market, 5621 Airport
Kerbey Lane Cafe, Various locations Uchi, 801 S. Lamar
Ramen Tatsu-ya, Various locations wink, 1014 N. Lamar
Titaya’s Thai Cuisine, 5501 N. Lamar
Via 313, Various locations 2016
Asti, 408-C E. 43rd
2018 Chinatown, 2712 Bee Cave Rd.
Blue Dahlia Bistro, 3663 Bee Cave Rd. Fonda San Miguel, 2330 W. North Loop
Bouldin Creek Cafe, 1900 S. First Threadgill’s Old No. 1, Closed
The Clay Pit, 1601 Guadalupe Vespaio, 1610 S. Congress
Din Ho Chinese BBQ, 8557 Research
Fabi + Rosi, Closed
Franklin Barbecue, 900 E. 11th
Find more First Plates winners at :
Jeffrey’s, 1204 W. Lynn austincHronicle.com/
Joe’s Bakery, 2305 E. Seventh FirstPlates
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 5
The Austin Chronicle First Plates 100+ restaurants DeFining austin Dining now
Red Ash ItAlIA tAQueRo
muCho
Downtown
303 Colorado #200, redashitalia.com
Starring the custom wood-burning grill, Red Ash 508 West Ave.,
offers a mashup of Northern and Southern Italian fare, taqueromuchoaustin.com
featuring delights such as handmade tagliolini with It’s all about ambience at
blue crab, torn burrata panzanella, and osso buco mil- Taquero Mucho, known for
anese. For the aspiring sommeliers out there, they also its dedication to all things
boast extensive wine and cellar lists. rose-colored (pink tortillas,
even!). Part of Gabriela
Bucio’s unstoppable empire,
sAmmIe’s ItAlIAn the tasty tacos, tortas, elote,
RestAuRAnt and choriqueso are comple-
mented by sassy bevs served
807 W. Sixth, sammiesitalian.com
in a pouch or adorned with
Housed in the original Hut’s Hamburgers (closed in
cheeky labels.
late 2019), this new MML Hospitality restaurant focuses
on East Coast red sauce Italian food. Think chopped
salad, rigatoni Bolognese, and house Chianti. The
revamped, old-school vibes, complete with preserved
Wu ChoW
classic black-and-red-checkered floors, add enough 500 W. Fifth #168,
wuchowaustin.com
pizzazz to keep you around for tiramisu and cannolis.
Offering farm-to-table
Chinese cuisine via small
sImI estIAtoRIo plates and shareables, local
legend C.K. Chin’s restaurant
601 Congress, simiatx.com
is an excellent choice for
This pandemic-born beauty might be the fanciest groups, but make reserva-
restaurant in Austin, but step inside the sleek interi- tions early! Braised eggplant
or – whitewashed with pale pink accents and oceanic in a sweet-savory sauce, hon-
Hestia John Anderson textures – and you’re transported to an alternate Greek ey-pecan Gulf prawns, and
oasis. It’s a boat-to-table menu with “land” options, steamed dumplings are not
featuring wondrous dishes like seafood yiouvetsi, made
AtX CoCInA hestIA with orzo in Moschofilero tomato sauce and a fine
to be missed, and plan way
ahead for dim sum, available
110 San Antonio #170, 607 W. Third, hestiaaustin.com assortment of fresh seafood. Don’t let the price tag only on Sundays.
atxcocina.com The sultry dining room’s 20-foot custom thwart you; it’s way cheaper than a trip to Santorini.
From the people that brought you hearth exalts the eponymous Greek goddess at
Z’Tejas, Eddie V’s, and Hopdoddy comes this Emmer & Rye sibling restaurant. Smoky fla-
a happening Downtown spot churning vors abound, and bright bites like rockfish crudo
out contemporary Mexican cuisine for with smoked blackberry pair with expert-level
the increasingly glitzy masses. The focus transformations of fresh and foraged produce –
here is on corn, maize, masa, and the an umami crown jewel is the lion’s mane mush-
end result is worth braving the newest room with blackened koji and charcoal. Hestia’s
burgeoning Downtown block. Please draw is a soulful atmosphere, and, of course,
don’t skip the queso fundido. Tavel Bristol-Joseph’s striking kakigōri.
devIl mAy CARe QI AustIn
500 W. Sixth, devilmaycareatx.com 835 W. Sixth #114, qiaustin.com
Sometimes we want to feast on the Elegant, contemporary, and distinctly
finest of high-end, impeccably crafted Chinese, chef Ling Qi Wu’s menu highlights
Mediterranean food. Sometimes we want her extensive culinary knowledge with super
to take guests to a modern nightclub fresh organic produce from the partner farm,
that reminds us of our poshest nights of Wu Lanfang, in Manor. Her dim sum menu –
youth in Athens and Cairo. Surprise: We apps for lunch and dinner, in full on weekends
can fulfill both of those sensual desires – is not to be missed. Where else will you find
right here in ATX. lobster dumplings, Sichuan peppercorn alliga-
tor, and Chinese opera? Simi Estiatorio John Anderson
6 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.com
The Austin Chronicle First Plates
Campus
The 31st Annual Austin Chronicle Hot Sauce Festival
Presented by Cap Metro has a new venue, date, and time!
Bao’d Up John Anderson
Bao’d Up HopfieLdS
2222 Rio Grande #190, baodup.com 3110 Guadalupe, hopfieldsaustin.com
Mmm, yes, bao: perfect, picnic-worthy, When we think “gastropub,” we think
eat-’em-with-your-hands nourishment. The Hopfields: Because we prefer local places,
soft, steamed buns (stuffed with savory and we want the food we eat to be on par
or sweet fillings) originated in Asia nearly with the world’s finest bistros – thanks,
1,800 years ago, but are now revitalized with chef James Flowers – and we know the
an array of classic and innovative flavors joint also has 44 rotating taps of craft
(Thanksgiving pumpkin bao, anyone?) by beer from Austin and beyond, and all
chef Ting Lin here in ATX at five locations. sorts of nonalcoholic quaffs, too.
Honey Moon texaS
Spirit LoUnge frencH Bread
624 W. 34th, 2900 Rio Grande, Far out
honeymoonspiritlounge.com
Local musician Reed Calhoun’s passion
texasfrenchbread.com
Chef Murph Willcott’s restaurant
Lounge & Stage
project with Adrienne Wiggins, his bride- does not serve bread alone (although
to-be, made waves earlier this year with
its spooky, psychedelic take on cocktail
their daily loaves and pastries might
make you weep for joy), but keeps a
sunday, september 12, 2021
culture. Elegant not ostentatious, fun not neighborhood (and anyone who knows
d o o r s at 3 : 0 0 PM
artificial, this fresh-faced arrival offers funky enough to visit) satisfied with excellent
yet familiar bites from local legend Manuel lunches and highlight-your-calendar
austinchronicle.com/hotsauce
Rocha, including rabbit confit, koji-aged dinners, all locally sourced and worthy
steak frites, and vegan barbecue burnt ends. of the finest wines they feature.
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 7
The Austin Chronicle First Plates 100+ restaurants DeFining austin Dining now
Country Boyz
East fixins
4140 E. 12th, countryboysfixins.com
Country Boyz harkens back to an earlier time:
Think Flo’s on E. Seventh and Virginia’s on S. First.
Everything at CB’z is made from scratch. Wednesdays
are for smothered pork chops and baked chicken,
while Saturdays are for the hand-pounded chicken
fried steak. Blue collar, friends. Call in your order
and devour it at the picnic tables out front.
dai due ButCher
shop & supper CluB
2406 Manor Rd., daidue.com
You want pies? You got ’em. You want antelope
sausage? Say no more. You want a fried chicken
dinner on Sunday? Come on in and sit for a spell.
Driven by a hyperfresh and hyperlocal ethos, chef
and hunting aficionado Jesse Griffiths has anchored
the local foods movement in Austin for nigh on 15
years, with the Manor Road restaurant turning seven
this year. Here’s to many more to come.
Nixta Taqueria DaviD BrenDan Hall
BatCh Craft Beer Cherrywood
+ KolaChes Coffeehouse
3220 Manor Rd., batchatx.com 1400 E. 38th½,
What’s not to love about this one-stop shop? cherrywoodcoffeehouse.com
Anchoring the compound is the open-air beer We usually get The Wife’s
garden and OG counter serving a full espresso Cheeseburger, because it matches our
bar plus savory klobasnek (including vege- platonic burger ideal, but the menu’s
tarian sausage) and sweet options like PB&J chockablock with enough sammies, tacos,
kolaches. Their on-site craft brewery, Batch and all-day breakfasts to almost over-
Brewhouse, churns out tasty bevs like hibiscus shadow their impressive array of drinks
pilsner, summer stout, and a hybrid wine/ (including 25 draft taps). The feeling of
beer series. As if this sundae needed a cherry, neighborhood is strong in this casual,
they’ve also got a kickass food truck to satiate welcoming place, with regular artist,
late dinner cravings. musician, and comedian showcases.
BoBo’s snaCK Bar Contigo
3850 Airport Blvd., bobossnackbar.com 2027 Anchor, contigotexas.com
Owners Bethany Andrée and Karl Gilkey Contigo’s unique rustic atmosphere is
honor Austin’s weirdness and wonder at the modeled after their Fredericksburg ranch,
long-awaited younger sister of dearly missed meaning plenty of outdoor communal
Snack Bar. Bobo’s arrived in style with a wide seating and hearty fare centered on fresh,
selection of snacks and beverages all from seasonal ingredients – think tri-tip, quail,
Central Texas purveyors, including plenty of pickled okra, country pâté. A rotating
vegan and vegetarian options. As a “commu- menu means your faves may not stick
nity tasting room,” it’s the perfect place to kick around, but you can always count on the
back and stay awhile. famed burger to hit the spot. Contigo JoHn anDerson
8 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.com
rosewood gulf
Coast Chop house
1209 Rosewood, rosewoodatx.com
With exciting twists on South Texas fare, this
restaurant’s menu features local produce and Texas
proteins – think duck confit queso, braised 44 Farms
short rib, or blackened redfish with potato gnocchi
and tomato butter. They’ve been busting their chops
to accommodate diners during the pandemic, with
quadrupled seating on their huge lovely patio, a
chef’s counter experience, daily happy hour, and
tasty to-gos. Don’t miss the blueberry tart.
tsuKe edomae
4600 Mueller Blvd. #1035, tsukeedo.com
Breathing new life into Kyōten’s former Mueller
space is the come-to-life dream of chef Michael
Che, who trained under Otto Phan himself in
Chicago. Che takes pride in the preservation
methods of Edomae-style sushi (a more “orthodox”
nigiri), offering an 11-course omakase to a small
group of lucky patrons. Turn on notifications if you
hope to score a rezzie in the next round because
Austin, it seems, is officially obsessed.
Batch Craft Beer + Kolaches JoHn anDerson
uroKo
hillside nixta 1023-C Springdale, Bldg. 1,
farmaCy taqueria urokoaustin.com The ausTin chronicle’s online
St re
Co-owned by Komé chef Takehiro Asazu and
1209 E. 11th, hillsidefarmacy.com 2512 E. 12th, nixtataqueria.com
Masazumi Saio of longtime Uchi fame, this spot
Old-school continental elegance and Chef Edgar Rico takes the nixtamal-
at Springdale General’s food complex balances
down-home Austin goodness mingle in ization of corn to heights of savory
upscale food and casual atmosphere. Sushi classes
this Eastside gem, where the refurbished goodness at this Eastside venue, then
and take-home temaki (hand roll) kits are part of
pharmacy interior is as Instagrammable enhances his fresh tortillas with the likes
the charm, and a quick temaki makes the perfect
as the locally sourced food is delicious. of roasted beets, yellowfin tuna, duck
lunch. (Try the beef tataki with fried shallot, pick-
Reckon you’ll feel like a Rockefeller no confit, potato and chorizo puree – all
led jalapeno, and umami jelly.) Reliably fresh and
matter how you’re eating the fresh oysters served up in a stylish, intimate setting.
delicious, Uroko easily makes the growing list of
that supercharge happy hours and more. Bonus: Host extraordinaire Sara Mar-
Austin’s gold-standard Japanese food.
danbigi is a community-building star.
l’oCa d’oro ViC & al’s
1900 Simond, locadoroaustin.com paperBoy 2406-D Manor Rd., vicandals.com
Pasta may well reach its sauce- 1203 E. 11th,
paperboyaustin.com When the pandemic hit, Nic Patrizi, owner of the
enhanced apotheosis at this Mueller-
Vortex’s beloved Italian food truck, quickly pivoted:
based bastion of Italian culinary good The paperboy is now the paperman,
He turned his then soon-to-open Cajun concept in
works via the skills of chef Fiore Tedesco having graduated from a parking-lot
the former Unit-D Pizzeria spot into a soup kitchen,
and his crew, but it’s not only about the food trailer to a sleek and chic brick-
serving gumbo and red beans and rice to anyone
noodles. Locally sourced meats and and-mortar, where locals can roll out
who asked. Now the restaurant, an ode to the
veggies, wisely curated wines – every- of bed and enjoy a greatly expanded
Patrizi family’s rich Beaumont history, offers those
thing gets that Golden Goose treatment. breakfast and lunch menu of pastries,
same classic comfort foods, plus delights like fried
Perhaps even more extraordinary are toasts, grain bowls, and sandwiches.
chicken po’boys, cochon de lait and sassafras rice,
Tedesco and co-owner Adam Orman’s Order an Aperol spritz or cereal milk
and dinner specials. Paying homage and paying it
unmatched efforts to feed folks across the punch alongside and the day’s news
forward, one tasty meal at a time.
won’t bother you a bit.
city during hard times.
austinChroniCle.Com/store
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 9
The Austin Chronicle First Plates 100+ restaurants DeFining austin Dining now
Casa Colombia JusTine’s
Lower East 2409 E. Seventh, casa-colombia.com
Standing out like an island in an ocean of Tex-
Mex, Casa offers flavors from a bit farther south
4710 E. Fifth, justines1937.com
These perennial First Platers have
perfected the art of immersive dining.
of the border: yuca frita, savory empanadas, Their refined menu of French delicacies
arepas, tamales wrapped in plantain leaves, and is complemented by an immaculate
chimichurri. Try the rum-based Coco Loco, served atmosphere and meticulously curated
in a hollowed coconut, to kick things up a notch. playlists that elevate evenings of fun into
romance, and romance into fun. To eat
here is to embrace the unknown and the
The Cavalier nebulous possibilities within.
2400 Webberville, thecavalieratx.com
They’re serious about Southern comfort here,
meaning you’ll find deviled eggs dotted with Kemuri
crispy bacon, po’boys dressed just right, and TaTsu-ya
brunch with lemony, garlicky shrimp on cheesy 2713 E. Second, kemuri-tatsuya.com
grits. But their “Taco Fuego” pop-up celebrating
Another of Tatsu-ya’s unique
canceled Taco Bell items and events like Drag
concepts, Kemuri is a combination
Brunch show they know how to have fun, too.
Japanese izakaya bar and Texas bar-
becue joint, offering brisket and ribs
inTero alongside smoked octopus and jelly-
fish salad. Inventive cocktails brighten
2612 E. Cesar Chavez, interorestaurant.com the experience, and shareable skewers
We love the head chefs’ names as names – and munchies encourage communal
Ian Thurwachter and Krystal Craig – but it’s what dining. A perfect mix of casual vibes
they do in their acclaimed kitchen, with those and unexpected flavor combos, Tatsu-
robust Italian mains and sides, and chocolatier ya does it again with Kemuri, deserv-
Craig’s amazing desserts, that fluently speaks edly earning a spot on Bon Appétit’s
our taste buds’ strongest desire. national Top 10 list in 2017.
Intero John Anderson
benTo PiCniC buenos
2600 E. Cesar Chavez,
bentopicnic.com
aires Cafe
1201 E. Sixth, buenosairescafe.com
The effervescent Leanne Valenti’s local-
When you think of Argentinian food, all-
as-can-be take on Japanese bento box din-
you-can-eat steak, chimichurri, and empana-
ing is exactly the sort of homestyle fresh-
das come to mind. Thanks to this Eastside
ness and rainbow flavor your midday meal
cafe, Austinites know this cuisine is more than
demands – and reason to spend many a
just beef: It’s olives and cheese and bread
wine-sipping evening (with the Saba San’s
and freaking excellent wine. But, you know,
crowd) on that landscaped patio along East
the steaks here are pretty tremendous, too.
Cesar Chavez. Washoku, FTW! The Cavalier dAvid BrendAn hAll
10 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.comliCha’s CanTina sawyer & Co.
1306 E. Sixth, lichascantina.com 4827 E. Cesar Chavez, sawyerand.co
Serving self-described “Mexico City soul food,” Ah, chérie, 2Dine4 Catering’s Stephen Shallcross knows just what he’s doing
these folks specialize in distilled agave spirits, with this classic American diner and its New Orleans-influenced menu of breakfast
masa, and slow-and-low proteins and bold spices. spreads, gumbos, and boudin balls and remoulades and more, its blue-plate specials
Cochinita pibil sopecitos, mole con pollo huaraches, and patty melts and Big Easy coffees and cocktails, its deep Eastside Austin history.
huitlacoche quesadillas? Yep, all of that, please.
Licha’s also hosts one of the best happy hours in
town, with $6 craft cocktails and munchies. The suerTe
convivial patio space is always a great time. 1800 E. Sixth, suerteatx.com
How do we love thee? Let us count the ways. We love the goat picadillo pupusa
salT & Time with smoked tomato at brunch. We love the oyster mushroom carnitas and always
perfect heirloom corn tortillas. We love the traditional Mexican cooking tech-
resTauranT niques and close partnerships with local farmers. And we love how much exec-
1912 E. Seventh, saltandtime.com utive chef Fermín Nuñez and his teams translate their talent and inspiration into
culinary wizardry.
You wouldn’t think that a butcher shop would
also be the site of a stealth high-end restaurant,
but you also wouldn’t not expect to be able to eat
steak or a really excellent burger in a butcher shop, sweeT Chive
accompanied by a glass of crisp biodynamic rosé 2515 E. Cesar Chavez, sweet-chive.com
Justine’s John Anderson
or a light summer red from the adjacent wine shop. Is there any bowl of yum more flavorful and satisfying than the rice and noodle
Not on the Eastside? Grab a fig and brie baguette concoctions from this venue of Taiwanese cuisine? That’s a rhetorical question, but
sandwich or a sardine snack at that butcher shop’s the evidence – the fresh vegetables, the succulent meats, the unabashed spices – is
Kinda TroPiCal cafe in Republic Square. brightly empirical and easy on the wallet.
3501 E. Seventh, kindatropical.com
At this gas station-turned-hang zone, every-
thing’s, well, a little bit tropical. Pineapple
and coconut find their way onto burgers and
shrimp, and it’s an island oasis vibe on the
Eastside. From the chill atmosphere to the
daiquiri ice pops to the CBD-infused waffles
complete with a pot leaf imprint, they’ve got
laid-back on lock.
la barbeCue
2401 E. Cesar Chavez, labarbecue.com
Recently scooted just a little farther east
on East Cesar Chavez, LeAnn Mueller’s
’cue-linary triumph continues its reign of good
eatin’ with a full menu of locally sourced,
grass-fed meats smoked to perfection, offer-
ing hot plates or cold boards (supercharged
with cheeses from Antonelli’s) in a casual
neighborhood atmosphere.
laundereTTe
2115 Holly, launderetteaustin.com
Sure, Rene Ortiz and Laura Sawicki’s popu-
lar eatery is a few blocks south of the relentless
Restaurant Row that East Cesar Chavez has
become, but that only makes it more attractive,
right? Like it’s your little global-contemporary
dining secret? Pro tip: Do not skip dessert. la Barbecue dAvid BrendAn hAll
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 11The Austin Chronicle First Plates 100+ restaurants DeFining austin Dining now
Citizen eatery
Midtown
5011 Burnet Rd., citizeneatery.com
Follow the pink rabbit to this chill, modern
vegan dine-in spot and pull up a chair or belly up
to the bar. Because yeah, this joint serves cocktails
and mocktails alongside delightful dishes like
burgers and omelettes. That’s right, breakfast is
served all day, citizen, just like it should be.
DipDipDip tatsu-ya
7301 Burnet Rd. #101, dipdipdip-tatsuya.com
If you’re looking to play with your food, this
nontraditional, decadent shabu-shabu experi-
ence is sure to please. It’s interactive: Swoosh
your slices – wagyu beef, farm box veggies, kuro-
buta sausage, Hi-Fi Mycology ’shrooms – in your
very own hot pot and dip (dip dip). Expect a gor-
geous ambience, four lovable Tatsu-ya broths,
and twists like shiso kosho queso.
Citizen Eatery John Anderson
101 By teahaus Bufalina Due
6929 Airport Blvd. #132, teahaus101.com 6555 Burnet Rd.,
Asian American food in an Asian American bufalinapizza.com
shopping center, ready to delight all The OG Eastside location sadly
Americans of any heritage? “We transform closed this year, but there’s a silver lin-
the authentic OG tastes and recipes of our ing: Bufalina Due to the north is here
upbringing to the familiar presentations that for your wood-fired Neapolitan pizza
we’re accustomed to,” the Teahaus gang tells needs. That perfect char! That melty,
us, and we’re smiling concurrence and eating cheesy goodness! And take some of
the hell out of dumplings, burgers, curries, it to go, because you’ll want a slice of
and more – with so! Much! Boba! Tea! satisfying olive oil cake or mouthwater-
ing tiramisu for dessert.
BlaCk star
Co-op puB anD China family
6801 Airport Blvd.,
Brewery chinafamilytx.com
7020 Easy Wind #100, blackstar.coop When you’re on the hunt for spot-on
Famous for its rarely seen approach to Sichuan, look no further. All the classics
employee compensation of implementing are ridiculously well done and served
a living wage and a no-tipping policy, the in heaping portions, and pescatarians
co-op also offers a solid selection of house will appreciate the seafood options, like
craft brews and pub grub like addictive fish & the crispy fried salt-and-pepper shrimp
chips, burgers, and crispy fried chicken. and fish fillet in chile oil. Eldorado Cafe John Anderson
12 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.comFluff Merinngues & More John Anderson
easy tiger fluff meringues
6406 N. I-35 #1100,
easytigerusa.com
& more
4800 Burnet Rd. #450,
Bread, bread, and more bread – savory fluff-meringues.com
or sweet, plain or fancy. It’s what David
Sometimes you just need a little treat, you
Norman built this local favorite upon.
know? Just something to pop in your mouth for
But the Tiger’s culinary architecture also
a little pick-me-up, like a li’l lemon meringue
includes fine charcuterie and a plethora
drop or a tidy macaron. Sometimes you need
of rich, belly-pleasing pub grub to accom-
something more substantial, like a chocolate
pany the many craft beers and cocktails
almond meringue cloud or a bananas foster
lubricating the destination mingle.
tart that flips a flamboyant bird to your diet.
You don’t need to be on a diet anyway, you
elDoraDo Cafe perfect little pavlova.
3300 W. Anderson,
eldoradocafeatx.com
foreign
Raise your hand if Eldorado mar-
garitas got you through the pandemic. & DomestiC
Just us? No? Okay then, how about the 306 E. 53rd, fndaustin.com
creamy queso and crispy house-fried With their patented nose-to-tail, farm-
chips? Or the generous, customizable to-table approach to fine dining, chefs and
breakfast tacos? The filling and comfort- co-owners Nathan Lemley and Sarah Heard
ing enchiladas? (We’re particularly fond marry Texas’ unpretentious friendliness with
of the Esme’s Magic, filled with smooth the finesse of fine French cuisine. Garden-fresh
mashed potatoes to level-up that comfort produce, mouthwatering meats, and biodynam-
factor.) OK, put your hands down. Get ic wines alike are locally sourced and given the
in, losers, we’re getting tacos. space to speak – and shine – for themselves.
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 13The Austin Chronicle First Plates “ MiDtown” continueD FroM P.13
nervous Charlie’s
5501 N. Lamar Ste. B-101, nervouscharlies.com
Ah, the bagels at this place so near the big Half
Price Books! Just chewy enough on the outside and soft
enough on the inside, served up plain or filled with a
variety of delicious breakfasty or lunchy insides (of which
Willie’s Hot Pastrami may well be the ne plus ultra) and
ordered online or via in-person touch screens.
the peaCheD
tortilla
5520 Burnet Rd. #100, thepeachedtortilla.com
Eric Silverstein’s masterful blend of Asian and
American Southern cuisines continues to produce
dishes that are often as surprising as they are com-
forting, whether it’s innovative tacos or sliders, bris-
ket-boldened ramen, or Wednesday night’s Fried
Chicken & Whiskey special. (Once you’re hooked,
check out sister spot Bar Peached.)
revelry on the
BoulevarD
6215 N. Lamar, revelryboulevard.com
Come for the gumbo, stay for the laid-back
Louisiana brunch vibes. We’re partial to the blue rasp-
berry Deep Eddy lemonade and specials like salmon
croquettes and fried green tomatoes with lump crab
meat. BTW, their patio is an excellent option for the
soon-to-be-classic combo of boudin balls and stream-
ing Austin FC matches.
Lutie’s
JewBoy komé lutie’s
Burgers 5301 Airport Blvd.,
kome-austin.com
4100 Red River, luties.com
5111 Airport Blvd., jewboyburgers.com There’s a new oasis of culinary par-
This popular Japanese eatery adise in the Commodore Perry Estate
Representing both his El Paso upbringing
on Airport embodies every- across from H-E-B-anchored Hancock
and Jewish heritage, Mo Pittle’s JewBoy
body’s favorite izakaya dreams, Center? Yes, and, in keeping with its
Burgers cuts through the mishigas to ele-
serving up a wide array of sushi, resort-level surroundings, it’s elegantly
vate each culture’s classics to indulgent
fried fish, salads, curry noodle appointed and redolent of how locally
heights. Perfectly inspired choices abound,
bowls, and more – and great sourced foods can represent the fin-
with pastrami-stacked burgers, burritos
sake and beer to wash it down est of contemporary dining à la chef
buffed up by chopped latkes, and hatch
with – but is still on fresh-made, Bradley Nicholson. Not-so-secret weap-
green chile studded queso. And oh, those
takeout-only status as the pan- on: pastry chef Susana Querejazu.
latkes on their own are pretty swell, too.
demic threatens to extend. We’re in love with the “green dish.” Uchiko Photos by John Anderson
14 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.comtumBle 22
7211 Burnet Rd., tumble22.com
Of course this town’s gonna jump on
the whole Nashville hot chicken trend. And
of course that trend will establish itself
beyond the moment, as the many combos
and levels of fried poultry and peppery
heat offered at this burgeoning local chain • Mother & Son Chef Team
compel many return visits over a chicken- • Scratch bakes & local ingredients
lover’s lifetime. • Vintage & new popular candies
Sazan Ramen Courtesy of sAzAn rAmen • Breakfast and Lunch
uChiko •
•
Coffee, Tea, Ice Cream
Bean to Bar Chocolates
sazan ramen 4200 N. Lamar, uchikoaustin.com
6929 Airport Blvd. #146, sazanramen.com
Chef Tyson Cole’s Japanese-inspired 103 W. Austin Street, Round Top, Texas,
cuisine excels in thoughtful flavor combina- just off HWY 237
This gem of noodly flavor in the bustling,
tions, impeccable service, and the freshest
Asian-centric Crescent setting is home to the lollitopsweetshop.com
ingredients around. They can make salmon
rich, cloudy-brothed, paitan style of ramen FB & IG @lollitopsweetshop
taste like brown sugar and a humble trum-
– conjured in chicken or pork or, yes, vegan
pet mushroom masquerade as the elixir of
style – and a small, fierce array of craft cock-
life. Uchiko is at the top of the Austin food
tails. Ace in the hole: the curry rub of their Please join us again as our
game, a true gem to treasure and tithe like new spot Round Top Brewing,
Indomitable Fries.
the cathedral of epicurean delight that it is. Taproom and Kitchen, opens
next door in the fall. Updates at
Roundtopbrewing.com
stiles switCh unCle niCky’s
BBQ & Brew 4222 Duval St., unclenickys.com
6610 N. Lamar, stilesswitchbbq.com An all-star team (Juniper, Via 313, Nickel
This excellent epicenter of slow-cooked City) brought the casual Italian cafe to Hyde
meats right there on North Lamar is no secret, Park in 2019, covering everything from
but for some reason we’re always surprised by antipasti (marinated sardines) to dessert
how it’s the equal of our town’s more famous (affogato). Classic salads, hearty “sandos,”
barbecue spots. When we mentioned this to a and pane tostato (toasted focaccia) fill the
certain co-worker, he replied, “Oh god, yesss! in-between. A new Eastside location at the
The pork loin, the pork loin!” Hotel Eleven promises more of the same.
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 15The Austin Chronicle First Plates 100+ restaurants DeFining austin Dining now
Garbo’s House of
North & Northwest fresH MaiNe
lobsTer
THree GorGes
8557 Research #144,
houseofthreegorges.com
12709 N. MoPac,
garboslobsteratx.com We’re forever grateful that this
restaurant – named for the owners’
The most dependable lobster roll
adolescence spent in China’s Three
joint in Austin, Garbo’s not only deliv-
Gorges region – opened just before
ers the East Coast classic in two styles
the pandemic hit. Without their deli-
(hot with butter in the Connecticut
cious eggplant in garlic sauce, quar-
roll; cold with mayo in the Maine roll),
antine would’ve been way worse. The
but other classic offerings like a rich
large menu features lots of hot pot,
lobster bisque, lobster mac & cheese,
braised offal, fish dishes, and a killer
fish sandwich, and crab cakes. It’s a
mapo tofu.
wonderful taste of the ocean in our
landlocked city.
Julie’s
HiMalaya Noodles
kosHeli 8557 Research #110,
juliesnoodle.com
8650 Spicewood Springs Rd.
#148, himalayakoshelitx.com Soup dumplings might be a
more recent Austin fad, but they
It doesn’t get much better than
are a delicious, amazing fad that
multiple momos (dumplings) and
we hope sticks around. Those hot,
mountains of (gobi) Manchurian,
plump, pillowly delights are only
but throw in just about every classic
the beginning at Julie’s: Quality
Nepalese and Indian dish your heart
Chinese cuisine can be found up
desires, and you’ll be sending love
and down the menu. But seriously,
letters to this Spicewood Springs
those dumplings.
shopping center spot.
Garbo’s Fresh Maine Lobster John Anderson
carabao express epic poke
2309 W. Parmer, carabaoexpress.com 6448 Hwy. 290 E. Ste. A-100, epicpoke.square.site
Though Filipino cuisine is meant to be Anchoring one end of a Highway 290/Cameron Road
a messy affair, owners Nick and Coleen shopping mall is, hands down, our favorite poke place
Saunders tidy up that delicious culinary colli- in town. Heartily portioned and incredibly fresh, options
sion to offer a convenient and downright cute abound for the beautiful bowls. Make it raw, pescatarian,
package in this casual, modern take on Filipino keto, gluten-free, vegan, or cooked. Make it spicy or, heck,
food. Start off with the Boodle Box to sample it make it nachos. It’s perfect to-go, but dine in to enjoy a
all, then order it again and again. one-of-a-kind Kerry Awn mural with your rainbow lunch. Seoulju Korean Kitchen & Bar Courtesy of seoulJu
16 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.comFEEL GOOD
AGAIN
Smokin Beauty John Anderson
liTTle ola’s peace sMokiN
biscuiTs bakery & deli beauTy
14735 Bratton, instagram.com/ 11220 N. Lamar, 11806 N. Lamar,
littleolasbiscuits peacebakerydeliaustin.com smokinbeautyatx.com
Born out of necessity and innovation, Little One of the few Palestinian restaurants in town, Vietnamese cuisine is great. Texas
Ola’s picked up the Olamaie biscuit man- this cafeteria-style restaurant features fare from barbecue is great. Guess what hap- We’re all ready to feel good
tle and ran with it, slinging little bundles of several Middle Eastern regions. They’re experts pens when these two meet? You get again, but for our food insecure
Southern-style love in the form of tomato, in classics like shawarma, falafel, baba ganoush, some mind-blowing creations, like a
egg, and cheese and fried chicken biscuit and more, but the coriander potatoes (fried and brisket bánh mì that packs a wallop.
neighbors there’s no vaccine
sandwiches – not to mention breathtaking mixed with cilantro, garlic, sriracha, and lemon) Frito pie, covered fries, and loads to fight hunger.
desserts from pastry chef Jules Stoddart – at are a can’t-miss. And the bakery? So many bak- of meat-packed dishes are ready
the original Olamaie location and at Butler lava choices, you’ll need to make several trips. for the eating at this most Texas of
Pitch & Putt. Now Little Ola is all grown up establishments.
The 1 in 5 Central Texas children
and has a place of her own in Wells Branch. at risk of hunger deserve a shot
Mamaw would be proud. seoulJu koreaN at a happy summer.
kiTcHeN & bar TâN Mỹ
1601-E Ohlen,
NG cafe 9515 N. Lamar #230,
fb.com/tan-my-restaurant-
GIVE
seouljuatx.com
13000 N. I-35 #200, ngcafeatx.com 111549485550290
There’s nothing dainty about this Korean
Known for the 11 options of delecta- Succulent slabs of meat immersed
bar-food joint, so come ready to eat some of
in blazing hot broth, crisp veggies bur-
ble bánh mì made with co-owner Nguyet
Quach’s baked-fresh-daily baguettes (order
the best fried chicken anywhere, sip 50 dif-
ied in mountains of tender noodles, centraltexasfoodbank.org
ferent flavors of soju, and watch K-pop music
à la carte to dip in soup), the menu also umami tinged with spiciness in effort-
videos on multiple screens. Their service team
offers an assortment of Thai classics and less harmony. Pho is the perfect food
scratch bakery goods. Step inside for their
is wonderful, and the bulgogi kimchi fries
when it’s done right – and it’s executed Presented by
are addictive (add brisket on the weekend).
bonus Vietnamese menu. And if you’ve never flawlessly here. Modest in appear-
Familiar classics like dakgalbi and seafood
had a brunch meatball with tomato sauce ance, generous with portions, and
pancakes join several kinds of hotpot, ensuring
and fried egg, what are you waiting for? glorious no matter what you order.
everyone leaves stuffed and happy.
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 17The Austin Chronicle First Plates 100+ restaurants DeFining austin Dining now
Ovenbird
South 6501 S. Congress #211, ovenbirdatx.com
Adding to SoCo’s food tableau is this upscale
hangover food destination with a European twist.
Classic breakfast sandwiches are upgraded with
shakshuka aïoli, radish leaf pesto, and Bavarian
croissants. Marry any of the impressive teas with
unexpected pastries like Ukrainian sweet cheese
cookies or Franzbrötchen, a German cinnamon
roll, for international panache.
Tarka indian
Cuisine
5207 Brodie #120, tarkaindiankitchen.com
Founder Tinku Saini has been quite busy over
the last decade, expanding from one Southwest
Austin location to 10 in Texas by the end of
2021. Austinites are fortunate to have four to
choose from, where they’ll find approachable
Indian cuisine like customizable curries, vegan
pakora, and fresh lassi.
Tarka Indian Cuisine
888 Pan asian disTriCT kiTChen & COCkTails
resTauranT 5900 W. Slaughter Ste. D-500, districtaustin.com
2400 E. Oltorf Ste. 1-A, If, like us, you’ve been crushing on the Hajimalecki brothers’ expanding empire
888panasian.business.site (hello, Keepers; hurry up, Roya), you should definitely be well-versed in their menu
With a menu representing all types of at District – it features contemporary American with Middle Eastern and Cajun flare
curries, Thai noodles, pho, and anything all zhuzhed up with local farm goods. They offer a helluva happy hour (and a sec-
else you’re craving at prices that keep them ond location on Shoal Creek) to boot.
busy from open to close, 888 remains the
one true king of affordable and accessible
pan-Asian restaurants in Austin.
JaiPur PalaCe indian
9900 S. I-35 Ste. P-900, jaipurpalaceatx.com
International trips to the Pink City may have been thwarted by a global pan-
Crema bakeshOP demic, but here you can sample a taste of owner Sunil Kumar Yadav’s home city
9001 Brodie Ste. B-3, in Northern India, one dish at a time. Though it’s a vegetarian wonderland of
cremabakerycafe.com flavor, your carnivorous friends will be happy, too.
Southies know that this is the place for
handmade sweets for nigh on a decade.
Pre-pandemic, it was a full-service restau-
mOur Cafe
rant with a brisk brunch trade; owners 1414 Shore District #120, mourcafe.com
Jessica and Janessa Tomberlin pivoted the Sure, we could highlight the delicious chimichurri hummus, (nondairy) crema de
business into a de facto food bank during elote, or the brunchy duck carnitas, but we really want you to focus on the tlayuda.
the hairiest and scariest days of the past Big, bold, and eternally memorable, it’s a giant corn tostada topped with chorizo,
year. Now, they’re pivoting again to focus asiento, black beans, queso Oaxaca, and lovely produce like watermelon radishes.
more on pastries and coffee. Even mour, they source responsibly and offer carryout bottles. Crema Bakeshop Photos by John Anderson
18 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.com10515 OLD MANCHACA RD. - OPEN WEEKDAYS 9am-6pm
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 19The Austin Chronicle First Plates 100+ restaurants DeFining austin Dining now
OtOkO
South Congress & South First 1603 S. Congress, otokoaustin.com
Where’s Yoshi? When he’s not crafting exquisite mod-
ern Japanese cuisine at his 12-seat omakase restaurant,
Austin’s very own Waldo is often found clad in black,
flashing a megawatt smile anywhere fun is on the menu.
The Tokyo-style sushi and Kyoto-style kaiseki tasting menu
are one of the hottest tickets in town, thanks to unparal-
leled precision and impossibly fresh seasonal ingredients.
taste Of ethiOpia
3801 S. Congress #107,
tasteofethiopiaaustin.com
Yes, you do want to partake in the spicy East African
wonders created in Woinee Mariam’s kitchen and
served with delicate rolls of injera bread and coffee in
a setting like a neighborhood eatery just beyond the
city limits of Addis Ababa. Bring a few friends, too – it’s
even better when shared.
thai fresh
909 W. Mary, thai-fresh.com
Those of us who remember buying pad thai and mango
sticky rice from Jam Sanitchat at the Downtown farmers’
market when our now-teens were babes in arms shed a
proud tear when we think about her successful Thai restau-
rant and gluten-free bakery in Bouldin, not to mention the
Lucky Robot Japanese Kitchen John Anderson publication of her Thai Fresh cookbook in late 2020.
aba lenOir
1011 S. Congress #180, Bldg. 2, 1807 S. First, lenoirrestaurant.com
abarestaurants.com/austin Why Lenoir? Often cited as the best restaurant
It’s really something when you almost can’t decide in town: Check. Incredible, artful food: Check.
which is more gorgeous – a restaurant’s aesthetic Super cute location in a house on South First:
or its Mediterranean-inspired fare. Lush greenery Check. Owners that are universally beloved:
accents the multitiered patio, and the dark sexy Check. Maybe the best service in all of Austin:
interior insists you imbibe, but dishes like charred Check. Why not Lenoir? We’ll get back to you.
eggplant spread, black garlic shrimp scampi, and
coconut cream shortcake steal the show. Pair with
any cocktail from their impressive bar program. luCky rObOt
Japanese kitChen
el alma Cafe 1303 S. Congress, luckyrobotatx.com
y Cantina Lucky Robot’s claim to fame as the first sus-
tainable sushi restaurant in Texas is just the
1025 Barton Springs Rd., elalmacafe.com cherry on top of chef Jay Huang’s accolades.
Chef Alma Alcocer’s tortilla soup all by itself It’s Nikkei-style sushi (a contribution of the
could stand as synecdoche for the entire restaurant Japanese diaspora in Peru) with fusion items
and its varied menu: rich, nourishing, and delicious like ponzu verde. We’re big fans of the Tokyo
in the best homecooking-by-way-of-Mexico-City weekend brunch, mixing familiar egg dishes
way, unlike most tortilla soups you’ll find elsewhere, with sashimi, rice, and pork belly. With local
and served in a bright, welcoming space that com- mushroom sourcing and vegan Good Catch
plements the Palmer Events Center across the street. spicy tuna, there’s something for every foodie. Thai Fresh John Anderson
20 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.comaustinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 21
The Austin Chronicle First Plates
El NaraNjo loro
South Lamar & Barton Springs
2717 S. Lamar #1085, 2115 S. Lamar, loroaustin.com
elnaranjorestaurant.com No one thought, when brisket king
Friend, if you haven’t had a Aaron Franklin and Uchi’s Tyson Cole
fresh, warm pan dulce to kick off decided to collaborate on, whoa, an
brunch at chef Iliana de la Vega’s Asian-inflected smokehouse and bar-
traditional Mexican restaurant, becue joint, that it would be anything
what are you even doing with your other than astonishingly good. That
life? Recently relocated from Rainey was in 2018, and that’s still how it
Street to South Lamar, El Naranjo is now. Bonus: the big, tree-shaded,
continues its tradition of culinary dog-friendly porch.
excellence, from chilaquiles to cock-
tails and everything in between.
salt tradErs
jjim KorEaN Coastal
BraisEd BBQ CooKiNg
1101 S. MoPac,
1100 S. Lamar #2140,
salttraderscc.com
jjimbbq.com
It wasn’t enough for Jack Gilmore to
It’s all right there in the name:
make his Jack Allen’s Kitchen a Texas
Koreans know barbecue and
contemporary-dining success story.
braising can’t be beat. Jjim puts it
He had to go and expand to seafood?
all together with Asian cuisine for
Oh, shut up and pass us another fresh
the Lone Star heart. With a prime
oyster before we tuck into this sustain-
location right next to Alamo South
ably caught and nicely roasted catch
Lamar, this place could be the start
of the day. Perennial cioppino and a
of quite a night.
damn fine bar program, too.
Carptenters Hall John Anderson
CarpENtErs Hall 400 Josephine, carpenterhotel.com
With chef Jorge Hernández taking over as culinary director in early 2020, this gorgeous Zilker-area
restaurant in the Carpenter Hotel has leaned away from the Central Texas Czech and German influenc-
es and leaned into Southern-kissed, seafood-forward coastal chic, with campechana, shrimp and grits,
and plancha quail, but also tacos, burgers, and migas. Hip, accessible, and, naturally, ’gram-friendly. Salt Traders Coastal Cooking John Anderson
22 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.comFresh, healthy food from local farms
Every week at the SFC Farmers’ Market Downtown
SATURDAYS – 9PM-1PM SNAP and
WIC
Rain or Shine
Accepted
Sfcfarmersmarket.org
austinchronicle.com First Plates 2021 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE 23The Austin Chronicle First Plates 100+ restaurants DeFining austin Dining now
SLAB BBQ & Beer
West
7101 Hwy. 71 W., dopebbq.com
For anyone who felt foolish queueing at any
one of the world-famous joints around town, then
curiously ordering the freakin’ sandwich instead of
15 pounds of steaming beef on a metal tray, SLAB
has you covered with a streamlined experience
serving over 10 different ’cue sandwich combos
including brisket, chicken, and pork. No multihour
line, and an immediate meat craving placated. Do
not under any circumstances sleep on SLAB’s spicy
hot barbeque sauce.
SwediSh hiLL
1120 W. Sixth, swedishhillaustin.com
When MML Hospitality acquired this longtime
neighborhood bakery a few years ago, they
changed its name away from a pun (for which
we’re eternally grateful), but kept the spread of
beloved comestibles intact, showcasing the bagels,
pastries, pies, cakes, and a diverse variety of sand-
wich and snacking breads. Also: rotisserie chicken!
Swedish Hill
The Beer PLAnT oLive & June
3110 Windsor, thebeerplant.com 3411 Glenview, oliveandjune-austin.com
For a night out in a chill joint that’s dripping An Austin date-night classic, Olive & June’s beau-
with ambience (and saucy main dishes), nothing tiful tree-covered patio is a perfect spot to savor
beats the Beer Plant for meat-free fare and creative well-made, balanced Italian fare. Start with decadent
botanical cocktails. So go ahead and wash down arancini in romesco sauce, then sample the spring
some sriracha-glazed Brussels sprouts with a laven- herb ricotta ravioli or any other handmade-in-house
der Earl Grey martini. We dare you. pasta. It’s simple, rich food with perfect portion sizes
and a diverse enough menu to share small plates or
horde your own bucatini. A satisfying, elegant experi-
BeTTer hALf Coffee ence from acclaimed Austin mainstay Shawn Cirkiel.
& CoCkTAiLS
406 Walsh, betterhalfbar.com oTherSide deLi
They successfully pivoted to an expanded patio
1104 W. 34th, othersidedeliatx.com
during the pandemic, no reservations necessary.
Ground Control to Major Tom: Take your protein
Grab a macchiato early, chilled ramen for dinner.
pills and put your helmet on. Pastrami, the other
Here, the high- and low-brow collide: Note options
brisket, is a star in this tiny, lovely shop. They offer a
like the “Milwaukee Mouthwash” – that’s a can of
thoughtful natural wine selection, killer subs, house-
Miller High Life and a shot of Rumplemintz – or
made accoutrements, and good deli vibes. Known
some fine natural wine. And ambience? You’ll hear
for their griddled Reuben, we’re also partial to the
a Les Baxter arrangement followed by Three 6
Roddy and new beet pastrami.
Mafia on any given evening. The Beer Plant Photos by John Anderson
24 THE AUSTIN CHRONICLE First Plates 2021 austinchronicle.comYou can also read
