Cape York Peninsula national parks - Queensland National Parks - Queensland Parks and Wildlife
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Queensland National Parks
Cape York Peninsula
national parks
Contents
Park facilities....................................................................................2
Be inspired; Welcome .......................................................................3
Map of Cape York Peninsula .............................................................4
Imagine your journey ........................................................................5
Consider camping..........................................................................6–7
Plan your escape ......................................................................... 8–9
What do you want to see and do? ..............................................10–11
Choose your route ....................................................................12–13
Parks around Cooktown ...........................................................14–15
Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park (CYPAL).................................16–17
Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park (CYPAL) ...................18–19
Heathlands Resources Reserve,
Jardine River National Park and Resources Reserve ..................20–21
Palmer Goldfield Resources Reserve ..............................................22
Errk Oykangand National Park (CYPAL) ...........................................23
Cape Melville National Park (CYPAL) ...............................................24
Oyala Thumotang National Park (CYPAL) ........................................25
Journey with confidence ...........................................................26–27
Further information ........................................................................28
Use of generators
Lookout /viewing
booking facility
Day-use area
Ranger base
Self-service
Long walks
Short walk
Park facilities
permitted
Camping
platform
Toilets
Black Mountain NP
Cape Melville NP (CYPAL)
Errk Oykangand NP (CYPAL)
Heathlands RR
Jardine River NP
Keatings Lagoon CP
Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Mount Cook NP
Oyala Thumotang NP (CYPAL)
Palmer Goldfield RR
Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
close to park specified camping areas only
Peninsula Developmental Road
Margot Warnett © Queensland Government
2
Experience
a ‘cultural landscape’,
interwoven with
Explore significant places,
a vast wilderness on long stretches of dusty traditional stories and
roads, with dips and bends, ruts and bull dust deep spiritual meaning,
and challenging creek crossings. and sense the strength
of Aboriginal peoples’
connection to country.
Escape
with family and friends as
you immerse yourself in
nature in this awe-inspiring
landscape, far from
everyday distractions.
Celebrate
that exhilarating feeling
of reaching The Tip on
your epic adventure.
Savour the achievement,
soak up the view—
you’re at the very top
of Australia!
Encounter
(Clockwise from top left): Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events a tantalising history, rich in stories of pioneering
Qld; © Tourism and Events Qld; Maxime Coquard © Tourism and
Events Qld; John Augusteyn © Qld Govt; © Tourism and Events Qld spirit and overwhelming hardship, as you follow
in the footsteps of many who have gone before.
Welcome to
Cape York Peninsula
parks and reserves
As a park ranger and Traditional Owner,
I welcome you to ‘the cape’, on behalf of all the
rangers of Cape York. Some of us have cultural and
spiritual connections to these parks, some of us have
worked here for many years, and all of us are happy
to have a yarn, so come and say ‘G’day’ and we’ll give
you our tips on where to go and what to do. We hope
you have a good experience on ‘the cape’, and take
home good memories. Respect the environment and
our cultural places, and come back again!
Barry Liddie, Ranger,
© Qld Govt
on behalf of the rangers of Cape York Peninsula
3
Parks of
Cape York Peninsula Map legend (these symbols are used throughout this brochure)
National park 2WD access
Conservation park, Camping
Horn Island Resources reserve
Thursday Island Cape York Water Camping—non national park
(the Tip) Waterways Water on tap
Seisia Sealed road Day-use area
Bamaga Jardine River RR
Unsealed road Short walk
Jardine Jardine 4WD track
Hiking track
River River NP Town
Lookout
Eliot Place of interest
Falls Popular Vehicle ferry
travellers' stop
Captain Billy Fishing
Heathlands RR Landing Ranger base
Boat access
Bamaga Rd Toilets
Overland Telegraph Line
Wuthathi (Shelburne Payphone
Mapoon Bramwell Bay) NP (CYPAL) Fuel
Over-the-counter camping
Junction
Wenl Roadhouse r Bromley (Ampulin) Mechanical repairs permit booking office
Batavia NP (CYPAL) oc Olive R i ve NP (CYPAL) Self-service camping
k R iver 4WD access permit booking kiosk
Weipa Moreton Telegraph Station
Mission River Chilli Beach
Napranum Kutini–Payamu (Iron
Bromley (Kungkaychi) Telegraph Rd Range) NP (CYPAL)
NP (CYPAL)
Lockhart River
Peninsula
Developmental Archer River Scale
Rd
Aurukun Roadhouse 0 50 100km
Kulla (McIlwraith
Oyala Thumotang Range) NP (CYPAL)
NP (CYPAL)
Coen
Peninsula Flinders Group Cape Melville
Developmental Rd Port NP (CYPAL) NP (CYPAL)
Lama Lama Stewart
NP (CYPAL) Rinyirru (Lakefield)
NP (CYPAL)
Musgrave
Roadhouse Juunju Daarrba
Alwal NP Muundhi Nhirrpan NP (CYPAL)
Pormpuraaw Lakefield
Olkola (CYPAL) (Jack River)
Endeavour River NP
(Kurrumbila) RR Hann River NP (CYPAL)
Roadhouse Cooktown
Olkola NP (CYPAL) Hope Vale
Kowanyama
Errk Oykangand Laura Mount Cook NP
NP (CYPAL) Keatings Lagoon CP
Palmer Annan River
Goldfield RR Lakeland (Yuku Baja-Muliku) NP
Palmer River Black Mountain NP
Roadhouse Daintree
Daintree NP
Mossman
Port Douglas
Staaten Mount Carbine
River NP Burke Mount Molloy
Developmental Cairns
Road
Mareeba
Chillagoe
Chillagoe–Mungana Atherton
Karumba Caves NP
Bulleringa
4
NP
Stand at the top of Australia.
Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld
Imagine your journey Best ways to visit
The peninsula can be explored on a self-
drive journey of discovery, in your own way
Featuring landscapes of unsurpassed beauty and immense diversity, and in your own time. Use the checklists
rich with Aboriginal traditions and customs and European history, and itinerary suggestions (pages 8–13) to
Cape York Peninsula offers adventure aplenty! help plan your ‘adventure of a lifetime’.
If you prefer someone else to do the
Best time to visit Add some local flavour
planning, consider a ‘tag-along’ tour with
The dry season, between May and Experience the ‘real cape’ by visiting
an experienced guide. If you don’t have
October, is the best time to enjoy Cape local attractions, events and festivals.
the correct vehicle or camping gear, or if
York Peninsula. From May to July, maximum Choose from museums and cultural
you lack the experience or confidence to
temperatures are around 30°C. As the centres, rodeos and race carnivals,
drive yourself, consider a commercial tour.
season progresses, the days become hotter agricultural and country shows, fishing
Tours range from 2–16 days, including fly/
and more humid. tournaments and cycling events,
drive and drive/cruise options, and cater
and cultural celebrations such as the
The peninsula is busiest between June and for special interests such as bird watching
Laura Dance Festival and Cooktown
September, during the ‘cooler’ weather. and fishing. Visit queensland.com for
Discovery Festival. Find details at
School holiday periods (July and September) details of tour providers.
tourismcapeyork.com.
are best avoided if you seek solitude.
Parks on the peninsula are closed during
the wet season from around 1 December
until April or May but sometimes as late as
August, depending upon weather and road
conditions. While the main roads through
the peninsula may open from around May,
some park access roads are not passable
until later in the season. Check qld.gov.au/
ParkAlerts.
All roads lead north! (left); Laura Dance Festival (above). © Tourism and Events Queensland
5
Melaleuca waterhole camping area,
Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
© Tamara Vallance
Consider camping Travel tips
Check out the camping area maps on
Sitting by a camp fire and sleeping under the stars is an essential the web site to help you choose which
ingredient of your Cape York Peninsula adventure! Consider your camp site you want. Some parks have
camping options before you start planning your trip. many sites!
Mobile coverage on the peninsula
Camping in national parks • For other camping areas, during school
is limited to large towns so making
National parks camping is very holiday periods book at least 2–3 online bookings is not easy. Create
affordable—for the cost of a cuppa, you months in advance. your camping booking account at
can sleep in million-star comfort! • Outside of holiday periods, book at home before you head off, and book
least several days in advance. as many nights in advance as you can.
Camping opportunities vary from large
developed camping areas with all the Book online You can change or cancel your
‘mod cons’ (well, toilets and showers) booking up to 2 days before your
Book your camp site and obtain your
booking date and obtain a refund.
to isolated bush camping areas with no camping permit online, 24/7. Booking
facilities. To find your perfect camp site, online is a simple, five-step process. Avoid ghost-bookings! Be considerate
visit qld.gov.au/NationalParks, select 1. Visit qld.gov.au/Camping. of other campers—make sure you
Find a park or forest, browse by region cancel your booking if you don’t
2. Login or Create Account.
(Cape York Peninsula) and search for need it!
3. Select Camping and find your site.
camping areas that suit your needs— Make sure you camp in the correct
select Camping as well as other facilities 4. Use a payment card to secure your
camp site (if sites are numbered) to
such as Toilets, Generators permitted, and booking. avoid confusion and conflict.
Camper trailer sites. 5. Record your permit number (for display
on your tent/trailer).
Book camp sites in advance
Once you have found your perfect What if I don’t know my exact dates?
camp site, you must book your site and When planning your camping bookings,
purchase a camping permit in advance. you may want to allow for bad weather,
If you arrive at a national park without a breakdowns or extending your stay in a
prior booking or camping permit, you may place you love. If you are travelling outside
miss out. Camping in Cape York Peninsula of holiday periods, you can afford to be a
parks is very popular, and many camping bit flexible. We still recommend booking
areas book out quickly. as much of your trip as you can before
you leave (to avoid disappointment), but
• For popular camping areas, such as
where you need flexibility, you can book
Chilli Beach and Eliot Falls, book as far
your sites closer to the time (a few days
in advance as possible.
ahead) while you are on the road (outside
of school holidays). Travel with a detailed road map
© Queensland Government
6
How do I book while travelling? Camping outside national Gear and supplies
You can access the online booking service parks When travelling on the peninsula you
via your mobile phone or tablet. But You can also camp in roadhouses along need to be self-sufficient with vehicle
because most areas of Cape York Peninsula the Peninsula Developmental Road recovery gear, a basic repair kit and plenty
don’t have mobile coverage you need to (PDR) and caravan parks in towns such of fuel, food and water.
plan ahead for when and where to make as Lakeland, Laura, Coen and Seisia. Fuel and most standard supplies are
your bookings. Other camping options include stations available in major towns and from
• Take advantage of mobile coverage in such as Bramwell and Silver Plains, and roadhouses along the PDR. Limited
towns such as Laura, Lakeland Downs, Moreton Telegraph Station. For more vehicle repair services are available
Cooktown and Coen, and book online details, visit tourismcapeyork.com. in Cooktown, Coen, Weipa, Seisia and
before you leave town. several roadhouses.
• Use free Wi-Fi in Visitor Information
Camping equipment
Centres (Mareeba and Cooktown). Vehicles and trailers You must carry your own drinking
The main roads through the peninsula— water (or water treatment equipment)
What if I can’t get online? the Peninsula Developmental Road (PDR) as drinking water is not available in
If you can’t book online: and Telegraph Track Bypass Roads— national parks. Where water taps
• visit an over-the-counter permit are graded and have no major river are provided, the water supply is not
crossings. Access roads into and through suitable for drinking.
booking office accepting cash, eftpos
and payment cards at ARB in Cairns; national parks are suitable only for 4WD
vehicles. To visit the more rugged and Navigation
Atherton Visitor Information Centre;
remote parks you need a high-clearance Carry a detailed map of Cape York
Cooktown Botanic Gardens (Kindred
4WD vehicle. Peninsula, such as a HEMA map, in your
Cafe) and Moreton Telegraph Station.
If you are towing a trailer, you need to vehicle; you may also find a GPS useful.
• use a self-service booking kiosk at
check which roads are suitable. You need Consider purchasing an adventure travel
Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service
a high-clearance off-road camper trailer guide to Cape York Peninsula. These
(QPWS) offices at Cooktown and Coen,
to traverse access roads and internal comprehensive guides contain detailed
and Lakefield ranger base (Rinyirru); Iron road descriptions and useful advice for
roads in national parks and reserves.
Range ranger base (Kutini-Payamu) and Internal park roads and camping areas travellers.
Heathlands ranger base (Heathlands RR) are not suitable for towing caravans.
using a payment card or camping credit. Communication
If you plan to camp in national parks, Mobile phone coverage is generally
• phone 13 QGOV (13 74 68) to book
check which camping areas and camp not available in Cape York Peninsula,
using a payment card or camping
sites are accessible for camper trailers, although some networks may have
credit. Payphones are provided at many
and which can cater for rigs of your service in major towns. Public payphones
roadhouses and in towns.
size. Visit qld.gov.au/NationalParks, are provided at several locations. Carry
See map (page 4) for locations of booking select Find a park or forest, browse by a satellite phone or UHF or HF radio. A
offices, self-service booking kiosks and region (Cape York Peninsula) and select Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is also
payphones. Camping and Camper trailer sites. advisable in case of emergencies.
Camping at Horseshoe Lagoon, Rinyirru (Lakefield)
NP (CYPAL) (left); This could be you (above)
© John Augusteyn (left); Maxime Coquard © Tourism
and Events Queensland (above)
7
Escape to the open road
© Tourism and Events Qld
Plan your escape Bamaga
Weipa
Like any challenge, the success of your Cape York Peninsula journey lies in Kutini-Payamu NP
(Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
the itinerary detail. Consider these essentials before you go any further. Archer Roadhouse
Coen
Rinyirru (Lakefield)
How long do we need? 5-day ‘Encounter’ NP (CYPAL)
Laura Cooktown
A Cape York Peninsula journey involves a Dip your toe into southern Cape York Peninsula. Lakeland
Mossman
lot of travel! The time you need to travel the Port Douglas
Route Camp at Mareeba Cairns
1,000km from Cairns to The Tip depends
Cairns/Mareeba to Central or northern camping areas,
upon road conditions, not distances. Day 1
Lakefield ranger base Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
If you only have 5 days, its best to limit Central or northern camping areas,
Day 2 Rest and explore
your trip to a park in southern Cape York Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
Peninsula. If you have longer, say 8 days, Day 3 Lakefield to Old Laura Southern camping areas Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
you could explore southern and central
Day 4 Rest and explore Southern camping areas Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
peninsula parks.
Explore Laura, return
You need about 10 days to reach the Day 5
Cairns/Mareeba
Tip of Cape York Peninsula and return Bamaga
comfortably. Any less than that means you
will be spending most of your time in your Weipa
Kutini-Payamu NP
vehicle, bumping over corrugations on a (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Archer Roadhouse
long dusty road. Coen
Rinyirru (Lakefield)
Perhaps you want to explore the roads 8-day ‘Explorer’ NP (CYPAL)
‘less travelled’ or have a special interest Explore southern and central Cape York Peninsula. Laura Cooktown
Lakeland
such as birdwatching? If so, plan a longer Mossman
Port Douglas
trip of 15 days or more. Route Camp at Mareeba Cairns
Day 1 Cairns/Mareeba to Lakefield Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
Use these suggested itineraries to help
you start ‘roughing out’ your trip plan. Day 2 Rest and explore Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
Day 3 Lakefield to Coen/Archer River Coen or Archer River Roadhouse
Day 4 Coen/Archer River to Lockhart River Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Day 5 Rest and explore Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Day 6 Rest and explore Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Day 7 Lockhart River to Archer River/Coen Archer River Roadhouse or Coen
Day 8 Archer River/Coen to Mareeba/Cairns
Number plate tree at Bramwell Junction
Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld
8
Bamaga
Heathlands RR
Jardine River NP
Weipa
Kutini-Payamu NP
(Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Archer Roadhouse
10-day ‘Epic’ Coen
Rinyirru (Lakefield)
Journey the length of Cape York Peninsula NP (CYPAL)
to its northernmost tip. Laura Cooktown
Lakeland
Mossman
Port Douglas
Route Camp at Mareeba Cairns
Day 1 Cairns/Mareeba to Lakefield Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
Day 2 Rest and explore Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
Day 3 Lakefield to Coen/Archer River Coen or Archer River Roadhouse
Day 4 Coen/Archer River to Lockhart River Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Day 5 Rest and explore Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Day 6 Lockhart River to Heathlands/Jardine Heathlands RR/Jardine River NP
Day 7 Rest and explore Heathlands RR/Jardine River NP
Day 8 Heathlands/Jardine to The Tip Bamaga, Seisia, Umagico, Loyalty Beach
Day 9 The Tip to Coen/Archer River Coen or Archer River Roadhouse
Day 10 Hiking at Cape Melville
Coen/Archer River to Mareeba/Cairns Eric Wason © Qld Govt
15-day ‘Expedition’
Use the 10-day itinerary and choose ‘add ons’.
Extra
Destination Route Camp at The Tip
time Bamaga Ussher Point
2–3 Cairns/Mareeba to Cooktown, Heathlands RR/Jardine River NP
Cooktown Cooktown or Laura
days then onto Rinyirru (Lakefield) Captain Billy Landing
Bramwell Junction
Palmer 3–4 Cairns/Mareeba to Palmer Goldfield Palmer Goldfield RR and Moreton
Goldfield days and Laura, then onto Lakefield Laura Weipa Kutini-Payamu NP
Oyala Thumotang (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Oyala- NP (CYPAL)
3–4 Coen to Oyala-Thumotang Oyala-Thumotang NP Archer Roadhouse
Thumotang
days and return to Coen (CYPAL)
(Rokeby) Coen
Cape Melville NP (CYPAL)
Pormpurraw
4–5 Cairns/Mareeba via Cooktown to Cooktown and Errk Rinyirru (Lakefield)
Cape Melville Oykangand NP (CYPAL)
days Cape Melville and onto Lakefield Cape Melville NP (CYPAL) NP (CYPAL) Palmer Laura
Overland Kutini-Payamu to Moreton or Kowanyama Goldfield RR Cooktown
3–5 Moreton or Bramwell
Telegraph Bramwell Junction, drive the OTT
days Junction, and along the OTT Lakeland
Mossman
Track (OTT) to Heathlands/Jardine Port Douglas
Mareeba Cairns
Kutini-Payamu to Moreton or Moreton or Bramwell
Captain Billy 2–3
Bramwell Junction and onto Junction, and Captain Billy
Landing days OTT
Captain Billy Landing Landing (Heathlands RR) Cape Melville
2–3 Oyala-Thumotang
Heathlands (Eliot Falls) to Jardine
Ussher Point Ussher Point (Jardine NP) PDR to The Tip
days (Ussher Point) Cooktown
Captain Billy Landing
Thursday Ferry to TI; and/or explore NPA Ussher Point
Island (TI) attractions such as Pajinka, Bamaga, Seisia, Umagico, Errk Oykangand
2–4 Palmer Goldfield
and Northern Lockerbie rainforest, Lake Loyalty Beach or Punsand
days
Peninsula Wicheura, Somerset ruins, Mutee Bay
Area (NPA) Head and Jardine River mouth
Errk- Cairns/Mareeba or Normanton to
Oykangand 4–5 Kowanyama, Errk-Oykangand NP Errk-Oykangand NP
(Alice- days (CYPAL), Pormpuraaw and onto (CYPAL)
Mitchell) Musgrave Roadhouse
Sunset at The Tip (left);
Lotus lily, Red Lily Lagoon (right)
Peter Lik © Tourism and Events Qld (left); © Sarah Jess (right)
9
Birdwatching at Rinyirru
(Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
© Kerry Trapnell
What do you want to see and do? Top wildlife experiences
1. Spot estuarine crocodiles and
freshwater crocodiles in rivers and
Once you know how long you have, where you decide to go depends upon waterholes such as Catfish and Old
your interests. Are you a ‘birdo’ or keen fisher? Are you seeking escape or Faith waterholes in Rinyirru (Lakefield)
adventure? Use these special interest checklists to fine-tune your itinerary. NP (CYPAL).
2. View the giant ‘magnetic’ and
Great birdwatching 5. Spot Torresian crows, red-winged
‘cathedral’ termite mounds dotted
parrots, rainbow lorikeets, rainbow
1. Watch migratory waders (black-winged across Nifold Plain in Rinyirru
bee-eaters, black butcherbirds, pied
stilts and sharp-tailed sandpipers) and (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL).
imperial-pigeons, palm cockatoos and
waterbirds (diving ducks, black-necked 3. Watch agile wallabies and (more
the northern race of Australian brush-
storks, pelicans and magpie geese) at elusive) northern nail-tailed wallabies
turkeys around Eliot Falls camping area
Keatings Lagoon CP. on grasslands at Rinyirru (Lakefield)
in Heathlands RR.
2. View waterbirds (brolgas, sarus cranes, NP (CYPAL).
black-necked storks, magpie geese, 4. Spotlight for green pythons, and
comb-crested jacanas and ducks) southern common and common spotted
in Catfish Waterhole and Red Lily cuscuses at Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range)
Lagoon; and watch for star finches and NP (CYPAL).
honeyeaters in the grasslands of Nifold
5. Spotlight for spiny knob-tailed geckos
Plain in Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL). in woodlands, look for blue tongue and
3. View waterbirds (Pacific black ducks, frilled lizards around the camping area
radjah shelducks, royal spoonbills and saw-shelled turtles in the creeks at
and sarus cranes) in the waterholes, Elliot Falls, Heathlands RR. Spot Jardine
spot palm cockatoos in the canopy River turtles in the Jardine River and
above watercourses and see Australian nesting marine turtles on the beach,
bustards in the open woodlands of Jardine NP.
Oyala Thumotang NP (CYPAL).
4. Look for eclectus parrots and palm
cockatoos in rainforest; watch metallic
starlings congregate at Chilli Beach
(September to April) and spotlight for
Papuan frogmouths and owlet-nightjars
in rainforest at Kutini-Payamu (Iron
Range) NP (CYPAL).
Green python (above); Eclectus parrot
(right); Termite mounds, Nifold Plain,
Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) (far right)
© Jodie Bray (above); © Qld Govt (right);
© Tourism and Events Qld (far right)
10Best ‘nature escapes’ Aboriginal cultural sites
1. Welcome Waterhole camping area, There are many Aboriginal cultural sites
Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) scattered throughout the peninsula—it is
2. Day visit to Errk Oykangand NP a living cultural landscape. These sites are
(CYPAL); camp outside park near presented (with signs) in national parks.
Shelfo Crossing 1. Black Mountain, Black Mountain NP
3. Camp sites in Coen River section, 2. Low Lake, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
Oyala Thumotang NP (CYPAL) 3. Mount Tozer, Kutini-Payamu (Iron
4. Rainforest camping area, Kutini- Range) NP (CYPAL).
Payamu (Iron Range) NP (CYPAL)
Aboriginal cultural tour, Cooktown
5. Ussher Point camping area, Jardine RR. © Tourism and Events Queensland
Other places to learn about
First Nations peoples cultures
Must-see history sites • Split Rock rock art gallery and
Quinkan Regional and Cultural
1. Mining ruins, Palmer Goldfield RR
Centre, Laura
2. Old Laura homestead, Rinyirru
• Wunthulpu Visitors Centre, Coen
(Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
• Lockhart River Art Centre,
3. Old Archer crossing, Oyala Thumotang
Lockhart River
NP (CYPAL)
• Gab Titui Cultural Centre,
4. Overland Telegraph Track and
Thursday Island
linesmen’s hut, Heathlands RR.
• Torres Strait Heritage Museum,
Horn Island.
Don’t miss these historic
sites outside our parks
• Musgrave Roadhouse (historic
fortress telegraph station) and
Moreton Telegraph Station
Red Lily Lagoon, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
(top); Fishing at Cape Melville NP (above) • Coen Heritage House and Mining
Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld (top);
Janie White © Qld Govt (above) Museum, Coen (in the historic Mein
Telegraph Station)
Top spots for fishing • Lockhart River aerodrome and
Portland Roads jetty (WWII sites
1. Wet a line where tidal salt water mixes Fruit Bat Falls, Heathlands Resources Reserve
and relics) Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld
with freshwater at Five Mile Creek,
Saltwater Creek and Basin Hole • Historic Somerset Beach
camping areas in Rinyirru (Lakefield)
settlement, Northern Iconic destinations
Peninsula Area. It’s hard to choose but this is our pick of
NP (CYPAL).
the top five iconic places to visit:
2. Fish from the beach from any of the
1. Black Mountain National Park
Bathhurst Bay camping areas, Cape
Melville NP (CYPAL). 2. Nifold Plain, Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP
(CYPAL)
3. Drop a line in Horsetailer and Govenors
3. Chilli Beach, Kutini-Payamu (Iron
waterholes in Oyala Thumotang NP
Range) NP (CYPAL)
(CYPAL).
4. Fruit Bat Falls, Heathlands RR
4. Cast a line from the beach at Chilli
5. The Tip of Cape York Peninsula.
Beach, Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) NP
(CYPAL).
5. Fish from the beach at Captain Billy Be crocwise
Think twice—you’re in croc
Landing (north side of camping area), Old Laura homestead,
Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL) country (see page 27).
Heathlands RR. Adam Creed © Queensland Government
11Driving the Overland Telegraph Track
© Kerry trapnell
Choose your route Bypass roads
Bamaga Road (Northern and Southern
Bypass roads) offers an easier route to The
Stay on the ‘straight and narrow’, following the Peninsula
Tip, avoiding many of the creek and river
Developmental Road, or get off the beaten track and take a challenging
crossings of the Overland Telegraph Track.
4WD route. Whichever way you go, it will be the adventure of a lifetime.
PDR to the Tip From/To Via Distance (approx. times)
Mareeba and Lakeland
The Peninsula Developmental Road Cairns to Cooktown 327km (4hr)
Downs
(PDR) is the main access route into the
Cooktown to Laura Lakeland Downs 143km (1hr 45min)
peninsula. The road is sealed as far as
Cairns to Cooktown Coastal route (Cape 234km (allow 5–6hr to enjoy the
Laura; past Laura the road is unsealed but (alternative) Tribulation) scenery)
graded, and has roadhouses conveniently Laura to Lakefield ranger base,
PDR and Lakefield Road 85km (1.5hr)
spaced for fuel, food and rest areas. Your Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
route to The Tip follows the PDR to Archer Lakefield ranger base, North via Lakefield Road 110km (2.5hr)
River, then continues on the Telegraph Rinyirru, to Musgrave South via Laura and PDR 224km (3.5hr)
Road and Bamaga Road (bypass roads) Laura to Musgrave
PDR 139km (2hr)
(bypassing Rinyirru)
to the Jardine River crossing into the
Musgrave to Coen PDR 110km (1.5–2hr)
Northern Peninsula Area, and the
99–103km (2.5hr) to Coen River
northern most tip of Australia. Coen to Oyala Thumotang NP
PDR and Rokeby Road section; and further 47km (1–2hr)
(CYPAL)
to Archer Bend
PDR Coen to Archer River
PDR 66km (1hr)
(bypassing Oyala Thumotang)
The PDR follows the route of the
Archer River to ‘3 ways’, 133km (2.5hr); and further 4–6km
historic Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) PDR and Portland Roads
Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) to rainforest camping areas or
through central Cape York Peninsula Road
NP (CYPAL) 30km (50min) to Chilli Beach
before diverging west to Weipa, 50km ‘3 ways’ Kutini-Payamu Portland Roads Road,
184km (4hr)
past Archer River. The Telegraph Road to Moreton PDR and Telegraph Road
continues along the OTL route to Archer River to Moreton
PDR 123km (2–3hr)
Bramwell Junction. (bypassing Kutini-Payamu)
Moreton to Bramwell Junction Telegraph Road 42km (45min)
Bramwell Junction to Eliot Bamaga Road (Southern
127km (2–3hr)
Falls, Heathlands RR Bypass Road)
Musgrave Roadhouse Eliot Falls, Heathlands RR to Bamaga Road (Northern
58km (1.5hr)
This historic fortress telegraph the Jardine River ferry Bypass Road)
station, built in 1887, was part of Jardine River ferry to Bamaga Bamaga Road 42km (45min)
the OTL. Today the roadhouse is an Bamaga to The Tip Lockerbie 32km (1hr)
important stop for passing travellers,
providing fuel, food, accommodation,
camping and facilities.
Chilli Beach, Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range)
NP (CYPAL) © Tourism and Events Qld
124WD adventure challenges
The Tip
Follow in the footsteps (or wheel ruts)
From the car park, a walking track
of many who have gone before, from leads to the beach and over a bluff
© Tourism Tropical North Qld
the earliest explorers to present day to a monument, a further short walk
adventurers, with these challenging brings you onto the rock that is
4WD routes. the northern-most tip of mainland
Australia. It’s time to celebrate—
Battle Camp Road from you’ve made it The Tip!
Cooktown to Old Laura
Once the historic route from Cooktown to
the Palmer River Goldfield, this unsealed Drive 220km (up to 12hr) from Cooktown with recovery gear. It is not recommended
road passes Isabella Falls and crosses via Wakooka Road. Take a rest at Starcke for vehicles travelling alone, or towing
the Normanby River. Drive 38km (30min) River boat ramp recreational area before trailers, or without snorkels or recovery
out of Cooktown on Hope Vale Road, then continuing your journey to the camping gear. From the ‘3 ways’ junction in
turn onto Battle Camp Road and drive areas at Bathurst Bay or Ninian Bay in Kutinti-Payamu drive 27km along Portland
73km (1.5hr) to Old Laura in southern Cape Melville NP (CYPAL). To continue Roads Road, then turn onto Frenchmans
Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL). This route onto Rinyirru (Lakefield), drive 110km Track and travel the difficult 52km to the
can remain closed until June due to the (3.5–5hr) from the camping areas at junction with Telegraph Road. From here,
crossing over the Normanby River. Bathurst Bay or Ninian Bay to Kalpowar drive a further 22km north to Moreton
Crossing via Wakooka Road. Telegraph Station.
Archer River Roadhouse
Kowanyama-Pormpurraw Road Overland Telegraph Track (OTT) from
This favourite travellers’ stop near
to Errk Oykangand NP (CYPAL) Bramwell Junction to Jardine River
the southern bank of the Archer River
Visit this far-flung western Cape York park This iconic route is suitable only for
offers fuel, food, accommodation,
as an alternative (western) route into or experienced four-wheel drivers and
camping and facilities. The nearby
out of the Cape. requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle with
river bank is also a popular camping
recovery gear. The track is not maintained,
spot. Remember to be crocwise. Travel to Kowanyama along the Burke
has numerous creek crossings, with
Developmental Road, driving 542km
informal camping spots near each
(8hrs) from Mareeba or 360km (7hr)
Old Coach Road from crossing. Remnants of the historic
from Normanton. Contact the Secretary
Palmer Goldfield to Laura telegraph line can be seen along the way.
of the Abm Elgoring Ambung Aboriginal
The Old Coach Road between Palmer
Corporation on 0459 982 170 for advice From Bramwell Junction, the 80km
Goldfield and Laura passes through
before heading to the park. southern section of the OTT extends to
rugged dry country and is only for
the junction with Bamaga Road (Northern
experienced four-wheel drivers with Drive 32km (30min) from Kowanyama
Bypass Road) and takes about 6–8hr
high-clearance 4WD vehicles and recovery on the Kowanyama–Pormpuraaw Road
driving time. The 32km northern section
gear. It takes about 6–7hr to travel this to enter the park at Shelfo Crossing on
of the OTT is even more difficult. From
challenging 80km track. To reach Palmer the Mitchell River, a broad rock bar with
Eliot Falls to the Jardine River takes about
Goldfield RR, turn off the Mulligan fast-flowing water inhabited by estuarine
3–4hr driving time and involves several
Highway 67km north of Mount Carbine crocodiles and sharks. Drive with extreme
challenging creek crossings.
onto Whites Creek Road. Travel 71km (3hr) caution. The track continues for about
to Dog Leg Crossing on the Palmer River 11km through the park to the Alice River
and enter the reserve. The camping area is crossing. From here, drive 83km (1.5hr) Overland Telegraph Line and track
about 12km from the entrance. to Pormpuraaw on the Kowanyama– The Overland Telegraph Line (OTL),
Pormpuraaw Road. From Pormpuraaw, completed in 1887, connected Laura
Cape Melville coastal route drive 215km (3hr) east to Musgrave with the tip of Cape York Peninsula,
from Cooktown Roadhouse where your journey can providing a communication link
Take the challenging coastal route from continue on the PDR. between Brisbane and Thursday
Cooktown to Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP Island. Fort-like telegraph stations
(CYPAL) via the remote Cape Melville Frenchmans Track were located along the telegraph line,
NP (CYPAL). This route is suitable only If you are well-prepared for a true 4WD which operated until 1964 and was
for experienced four-wheel drivers and challenge, you may decide to tackle the dismantled in 1987. Today a rough
requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle difficult 100km (6hr) Frenchmans Track and unmaintained track, known as
with recovery gear. Carry adequate fuel— to or from Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) the Overland Telegraph Track (OTT),
driving in low range on sandy sections of NP (CYPAL). This route is suitable only follows the OTL route from Bramwell
the road uses fuel quickly. The nearest for experienced four-wheel drivers and north to the Jardine River.
fuel stop is Musgrave or Laura. requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle
13Aerial shot of Cooktown
© Tourism and Events Qld
Parks around Cooktown Take the time to rest at the
gateway to Cape York Peninsula—
Feel the excitement build as you begin your journey discovering some Cooktown—where the bitumen
of the diverse parks on sealed roads around historic Cooktown. ends and adventure begins.
Ranger Craig
The imposing boulder pile of Black Access
Mountain heralds your proximity to
Open all year (but Keatings Lagoon can
Cooktown while the rugged rainforest-clad
be inaccessible due to flooding between
Mount Cook provides a scenic backdrop
December and April).
to the town. Keatings Lagoon offers a
wetland refuge for waterbirds during the
dry season. Did you know?
The granite boulder-strewn slopes
of Black Mountain seem barren but
Must Dos large fig trees draw water from deep
• Gaze at stunning views over the within the mountain, and rainforest
Great Barrier Reef and Northern plants surround its base. Granite is
Wet Tropics world heritage areas usually pink-grey but these boulders
from near the summit of Mount appear black because of microscopic
Cook on the 6km return walk. For lichens and algae growing on
a less strenuous walk, stroll 800m exposed surfaces.
to the first lookout then return.
• Wander along the pleasant Wawu
Balgal Bubu Walk, and from a
Cooktown—Laura
snug bird hide watch waterbirds
discovery trails
feeding in Keatings Lagoon, A century after Lieutenant Cook repaired
especially from May to October. the HMS Endeavour on the river bank,
Remember your binoculars and ‘Cooks Town’ was established as a
insect repellent. bustling port to service the Palmer
River gold rush. Today, Cooktown offers
• Feel awed by the mysterious
travellers the chance to discover a
looming boulders of Black
colourful past and connect with local
Mountain and the Aboriginal
Aboriginal culture. Join one of the
legends surrounding these lichen-
Aboriginal or historical tours around
blackened slopes. There is no
Cooktown. Visit Laura’s Split Rock
access to the mountain—don’t
Aboriginal rock art galleries and Quinkan
risk injury by venturing onto the
Regional and Cultural Centre, 2hr via
boulder field.
sealed roads from Cooktown.
14Endeavour River
To Rinyirru National Park
(Lakefield) and Laura
Riv
er Places to go
1
r
ou
End e a v Wawu Balgal Bubu walk—
Co o
Cooktown
easy, 1.4km (1hr) return,
kt o
Keatings Lagoon CP,
wn
cI See
M
vo
r Ri d inset 5km south of Cooktown
ve r R oa
2 Mount Cook 2 Mount Cook summit track—
Keatings Lagoon easy to difficult, 6km (4hr) return,
Conservation Park Mount Cook
National Park Mount Cook NP,
1 Hannam Street, Cooktown
Mount Barnett
er 3 Black Mountain viewing area—
Riv
n great boulder views,
a
Ann
Oak y Creek Mul
liga Black Mountain NP,
n
25km south of Cooktown.
Hig
hway
Walker
Bay
Annan River
(Yuku Baja-Muliku)
National Park
Annan River
(Yuku Baja-Muliku)
Mount Ellen Conservation Park
Tr A rc
Annan River
her d
Po i n t R
ev
et
Archer Point
h
n
a
Ck
Mo
un
Cooktown inset
tA
m
St
os
oa
Hannam
R
Mount d
Cook
car
park
et
Ida Stree Walsh Bay
e
St
Hope Str
t
ca
eu
lal
Black Mountain
Me
To Mulligan Hwy
National Park
Black Mountain
Amos Bay
Mullig
a n Hi
3
ghway
To Lakeland
and Cairns
Scale
5 10km
To Bloomfield
0
and Cairns
Safety
When walking, cover up in
protective clothing and
remember the insect repellent.
Be crocwise
Think twice—you’re in croc
country (see page 27).
Keatings Lagoon; Mount Cook lookout;
Cultural tour (opposite page from top
down); Black Mountain (this page).
Qld Govt (opposite page top and above);
Tourism and Events Qld (opposite page below);
Tourism Tropical North Qld (this page)
15Waterbirds on lagoon,
Rinyirru (Lakefield) NP (CYPAL)
Adam Creed © Qld Govt
Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park (CYPAL)
Feel like intrepid adventurers as you savour the iconic sights, and To see a croc, keep very quiet,
discover hidden treasures and a colourful history in this enormous park your car near the lagoon but not too
national park. close (don’t close the door as the noise
will scare them off) and walk towards
This park is renowned for its large river the lagoon, keeping your eyes on the
Access
systems—the North Kennedy, Normanby, banks where the crocs often bask.
Usually open from 1 June (south of
Hann and Morehead rivers—with Ranger Barry
Lakefield ranger base) and 1 July (north of
spectacular wetlands, floodplains clad
Lakefield ranger base). Places to camp
in open woodlands, and vast grassland
plains dotted with termite mounds and
Kalpowar and Hann Crossing
Fishing camping areas
expanses of unique corypha palms.
You can fish in rivers and waterholes Large popular camping areas on river
The landscape has important Aboriginal at all camping areas in the park, and in banks at Kalpowar and Hann crossings.
cultural significance, containing sites the marine waters of Princess Charlotte Toilets provided.
associated with occupation, ceremonies Bay, adjacent to the park. Canoes are not
Bush camping
and stories of ancestral spirits. This allowed due to the presence of crocodiles.
Many secluded bush camping areas near
park is jointly managed by the Rinyirru Limit boat speed to prevent bank erosion
scenic waterholes and along river banks.
(Lakefield) Land Trust and QPWS. and water turbidity. Fishing regulations
No facilities.
and marine park zoning restrictions apply
(see page 27). Make or change camping bookings
Must Dos at the self-service kiosk at the Lakefield
• Spend a relaxing day fishing for a ranger base.
big barra then share it around a
campfire at night with friends. Termite mounds of Nifold Plain (left);
Horseshoe Lagoon (below)
• Capture a great photo as you
Maxime Coquard © Tourism and
watch the setting sun silhouette Events Qld (left); © John Augusteyn (below)
the termite mounds dotted over
the grassy Nifold Plain.
• Take your binoculars to watch
waterbirds feeding in the tranquil
early mornings or late afternoons
at Sweetwater Lake or Rarda-
Ndolphin (Low Lake).
• Step back in time to the days of
early European exploration and
‘gold fever’, as you explore Old
Laura, the original homestead for
Laura cattle station, and one of the
first on the Cape.
16No
Riv
Princess
rm
er
Charlotte Bay
anby
Lama Lama Cape Melville
National Park National Park
(CYPAL) (CYPAL)
No
Annie River
r th
Ke
Five Mile
nnedy R i
Creek Brown
Creek ka R o a d
koo
Saltwater ver Bizant Wa
Crossing River
La
ke Bottom Whiphandle Waterhole
f Basin
To Musgrave
Nifold Hole
iel
Plain Top Whiphandle Waterhole
d
Roadhouse
oa
d 6 Road Orange Plain Waterhole
R
ins Rarda-Ndolphin
Pla
rina (Low Lake)
Ma Melaleuca Waterhole
7 Hann
Sweetwater Crossing
Lake
5 Red Lily Lagoon
Hanush’s Waterhole
d River
Old Breeza
Homestead 2 Midway Waterhole
he a
5 4
More
Kalpowar Crossing
White Lily
iver
Seven Mile Lagoon Muundhi
nn R
Mick Fienn
Lakefield Waterhole (Jack River)
Ha
ranger base National Park
Rinyirru (CYPAL)
(Lakefield) Dingo Waterhole
National Park
(CYPAL) Catfish
Waterhole 3
Old Faithful Waterhole
Nor m an
er
Kennedy
Lake
Bend
v
Ri
by
Riv
th Kennedy
f
er
i el
Twelve Mile Lagoon
Legend
d
Pe
National park n in R
su New Laura oa
(CYPAL) la ranger base d
Welcome
No r
De
Aboriginal freehold land ve Waterhole Lake
l op Emma
m
Environmental reserve en
ta
lR Six Mile
Kalpowar Recreation Reserve oa
d Waterhole
To Cooktown
Old Laura ad
1 Ro
Places to visit Homestead Battle Ca m p
Horseshoe
1 2 Old Laura Homestead and Breeza Lagoon
Homestead—historic European sites
3 Catfish Waterhole—great wildlife
watching (turtles and crocs) Scale
4 Kalpowar discovery walk—easy
0 10 20km
4km (1.5hr) return ramble along the To Lakeland
Normanby River Laura
5 Red and White Lily lagoons— Distances (approx. times)
picturesque carpets of pink lotus
Old Laura to New Laura 25km (40min)
lilies and white water lilies
New Laura to Lakefield
6 Rarda-Ndolphin (Low Lake)—
ranger base
34km (40min) Safety
important spiritual and ceremonial Be alert for snakes
place for Traditional Custodians, Lakefield ranger base to when exploring the park. Wear
26km (45min)
also great birdwatching Hann Crossing protective clothing and footwear,
7 Sweetwater Lake—excellent Hann Crossing to use lights at night and keep tents
31km (1hr)
birdwatching. Saltwater Crossing closed at all times.
Be crocwise
Did you know? Think twice—you’re in croc
Before becoming a national park in 1979, this area comprised the Lakefield and
country (see page 27).
Laura cattle stations, first established in the late 1870s.
17Chilli Beach at dawn
© Tourism and Events Qld
Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park (CYPAL)
Unwind and immerse yourself in nature in this exceptional park famed for
iconic wildlife, rich in Aboriginal cultural significance and with a unique Severe Tropical Cyclone Trevor
made landfall here in mid-March
war history.
2019. Damage to the landscape
Featuring the rugged heath-clad Tozer Access was extensive—recovery may take
Range, lush lowland tropical rainforest (part Usually from July to November. many years.
of the largest remnant in Australia) and
long sweeping beaches, this park provides Fishing
a refuge for wildlife found only in northern You can fish from the beach at Chilli
Cape York Peninsula and New Guinea. Beach; fishing regulations and marine
park zoning restrictions apply (see
The area is rich in Aboriginal cultural
page 27). Fishing is not allowed in any
significance, with story places, ceremonial
freshwater rivers or creeks within the
sites and occupation places dotted across
national park (CYPAL).
the landscape. The park is jointly
managed by the Northern Kuuku Ya’u
Places to camp
Kanthanampu Aboriginal Corporation Land
Rainforest, Cooks Hut and Gordon
Trust and QPWS.
Creek camping areas
Shady rainforest camp sites on the
Must Dos banks of the Claudie River and Gordon
• Find hidden meanings in the heath- Creek. Toilet at Cooks Hut.
clad landscape of Mount Tozer
Chilli Beach camping area
through the Aboriginal story of Kutini
Shady and partly-shady camp sites
(cassowary).
behind beach (some protected by
• Let the sea air revive you as you
coastal plants; others exposed to wind).
wander along the white quartz sands
Toilets provided. Popular site—book
of wind-swept Chilli Beach, relishing well in advance.
the remoteness of this ancient
coastline. Make or change camping
• Feel the thrill of wildlife-spotting for bookings at the self-service kiosk
the ‘big four’—cuscus, green python, at the Iron Range ranger base.
eclectus parrot and palm cockatoo—
in their lowland rainforest refuge.
• Enjoy the evening spectacle of
Heath-clad foothills of Mount Tozer
metallic starlings flying overhead at (top); Old Coen track (right);
Chilli Beach starlings (opposite page).
Chilli Beach (September to April).
© Tourism and Events Qld (top);
© John Augusteyn; (right and opposite page)
18e
r
Pascoe R i v
Weymouth Bay
Coral Sea
Rocky Island
Scale
0 5 10km
Portland Roads
Cape Weymouth
Kutini–Payamu Ma’alpiku Island
(Iron Range) National Park
National Park (CYPAL)
(CYPAL)
Chilli Beach
3 3 4
Cooks Hut Albatross Bay
ek
by Cre
To Telegraph Road S
c r u bby C k Cape Griffith
ub
Rainforest
Scr
Frenchmans
Track 2
Gordon Creek
Go
rdon Ck
Old Coen
Por tland Roads 2 track
Rd W
es
tC
Places to visit
To PDR lau
1 d i e River 1 Mount Tozer lookout—scenic
heathland views
Mount Tozer '3 ways' junction
lookout
Mount Tozer Iron Range 2 Old Coen track—moderately
ranger base difficult 10km (5hr) return walk
through rainforest, with excellent
Lockh birdwatching. Arrange a vehicle
ar
Line Hill pick-up at the end of the track,
tR
ve
rR on Portland Roads Road.
i
oad
Lockhart
Lockhart River 3 Chilli Beach forest walk—easy
iver
River Airport C
Community 720m (10min) return walk behind
Pasc oe R
la
ud
the beach
ie
Riv
r
4 Chilli Beach walk—for views
e
of Restoration Island, where
Captain Bligh landed after being
cast adrift from his ship, the
HMS Bounty, in 1789.
Lloyd Bay
Safety Did you know?
Take care if driving on the The Iron Range airbase was constructed in 1942. American 90th Bomb Group, known
beach near creek mouths and
as the ‘Jolly Rogers’, described it as the worst airfield they were ever posted at
between the tides where quicksand
can develop. during the war. Difficult conditions were made worse during the monsoonal rains and
possibly contributed to several military aircraft crashes in the area. ‘The strips were
Be crocwise
a disaster… muddy and flooded most of the time.’
Think twice—you’re in croc
country (see page 27). W. Rollins, 197th Coast Artillery (AA) Regiment.
Distances
‘3 ways’ junction to Iron Range
2.5km via Lockhart River Road
ranger base
‘3 ways’ to Lockhart River community 11km via Lockhart River Road
3.9km (Rainforest), 4.8km (Cooks Hut),
‘3 ways’ to rainforest camping areas
5.5km (Gordon Creek) via Portland Roads Rd
23km via Portland Roads Rd to Chilli Beach
‘3 ways’ to Chilli Beach camping area
turnoff then 6km to the camping area
Chilli Beach turnoff to Portland Roads
6km via Portland Roads Road
township
19Eliot Falls, Heathlands Resources Reserve
Maxime Coquard © Tourism and Events Qld
Heathlands Resources Reserve,
Jardine River National Park and Resources Reserve
Be astonished by the sudden abundance of fresh water, soak up the Take up the challenge of driving the
beauty of the heath-clad landscape, and delve into the area’s colourful Overland Telegraph Track, if you are well-
history in our northern-most parks. prepared. You can avoid the deep crossing
at Scrubby Creek by taking Bamaga Road
These parks are a vast remote The area is a living cultural landscape, (Northern Bypass) into Eliot Falls.
wilderness in an ancient sandstone containing story-places and story- Ranger Stuart
landscape, dominated by the mighty beings, and occupation and ceremony
Jardine River with its many small sites. The parks are managed by QPWS, Places to camp
streams and swamps. Dry heaths, in collaboration with the Aboriginal
Captain Billy Landing camping area
coastal heaths, grasslands, rainforest Traditional Owners from the Atambaya,
Camp sites beside the beach. Toilet provided.
and woodlands are home to diverse Angkamuthi, Yadhaykenu, Gudang and
wildlife, including some found Wuthathi language and social groups. Eliot Falls camping area
nowhere else. Spacious camp sites in woodland between
Access Canal and Eliot creeks. Toilets provided.
Usually from June to November. Popular site—book well in advance.
Must Dos
• Wash away dust in crystal- Fishing North and South Jardine River
clear waters at Twin Falls at Fish in the Jardine River, except for the camping areas
Eliot Falls camping area, a section of the river (and its tributaries) Sandy sites on the banks of the Jardine River.
surprising oasis in a vast open from the old vehicle crossing (on the No facilities.
savannah.
Overland Telegraph Track) to a point 5km
• Discover fascinating plant life— Ussher Point camping area
upstream. You can also fish from the
sundews and pitcher plants Camp sites close to beach and cliffs.
beaches in marine waters adjacent to the
on creek edges, banksias No facilities.
parks and reserve. Fishing regulations and
and grevilleas in dry heath,
marine park zoning restrictions apply (see Make or change camping bookings
towering cypress, and sedge
page 27). Fishing is not permitted in Eliot at the self-service kiosk at the Heathlands
swamps in low-lying areas.
Creek. ranger base (before you arrive at Eliot Falls).
• Camp beneath clear starry
skies and feel connection with
the ‘sandbeach people’ who Did you know?
lived here for thousands of Early European explorers called this
years and knew Eliot Falls as area the ‘wet desert’ because it had
‘Yaranjangu’, a story place.
abundant freshwater but lacked food for
horses and cattle.
Tiny carnivorous sundew
© Queensland Government
20Cape York
(The Tip)
Possession Island
National Park Albany Island
Somerset
Places to visit
Seisia
Coral Sea
Umagico 1 Captain Billy Landing—
Bamaga remote coastline featuring sea caves
Injinoo
and white sand beaches
r din Bamaga airport
Ja
e 2 Fruit Bat Falls—
Bamaga Road
Riv
Jardine River Jardine River easy 500m (10min) return stroll on a
er
ferry crossing Resources boardwalk, with swimming access
Reserve
Es
ca
North Jardine 3 Twin Falls and Eliot Falls—
pe
River camping area
Ri
No river
ve
crossing between South Jardine River
easy 550m (15min) return walk, with
r
camping areas camping area Ussher Point swimming access at Twin Falls
OTT
Eli
Nolans Brook
4 ‘The Saucepan’—
ot
Bypass Road Jardine River
(no
Creek
National Park
(No
easy 670m (15min) return walk to
r ther
Bamrn By
r th
Orford Ness Eliot Creek, with swimming access.
n)
e
3 4
aga pass
Roa Road
Eliot Falls False
d
Orford Ness
Safety
2 At Eliot Falls, water
)
Ja
rd
Northern Bypass Road/ Fruit Bat Falls levels can rise rapidly and
ine
OTT junction
Mc
Ri
there may be slippery rocks
ver
Ba
He n
m
Southern Bypass Road/ (So a and submerged objects.
r
Captain Billy
yR
OTT (so
ga
OTT junction Ro Landing
r
ive
ut
a
he
rn Be crocwise
By 1
d
Co
uthern
ka Think twice—you’re
pa
c
to Coc
ss
d
oC ka
ss R
oa in croc country (see page 27).
R
t o d)
)
t hern B o a d
re
C re
nshot Creek ek
ypa
ek
Gu
R
ek
(S B a maga
Heathlands
e
Cr
Resources Reserve Shelbourne Bay
ti e
ou
iver Be r
ty R Heathlands
Scale lh un ranger base To Bramwell Double
0 20 Du 40km (Etatapuma) Point
Junction
Twin Falls (right); Captain
Billy Landing (far right)
Maxime Coquard © Tourism
and Events Qld (right);
© Qld Govt (far right)
Distances (approx. times)
56km via Bamaga Rd (Southern Bypass Rd) to turn off, then 13km west on Ranger
Bramwell Junction to Heathlands ranger base
base track
Bramwell Junction to Captain Billy Landing 93km (2.5hr) via Bamaga Road (Southern Bypass Road) and Captain Billy Landing track
27m along Captain Billy Landing track, then 53km (2hr) along Bamaga Road
Captain Billy Landing to Fruit Bat Falls sign
(Southern Bypass Road)
Heathlands ranger base to Fruit Bat Falls sign 13km on Ranger base track, then 64km along Bamaga Road (Southern Bypass Road)
14km north via Bamaga Road to Mistake Creek track turnoff, then 14km to Eliot Falls
Fruit Bat Falls sign to Elliot Falls
camping area OR 8km via OTT (with deep crossing on Scrubby Creek)
Eliot Falls to South Jardine River camping area 32km (3–4hr) north via the OTT
Bamaga Road (Northern Bypass Road)/OTT
50km via Bamaga Road to ferry crossing, then further 11km
junction to North Jardine River camping area
50km via Bamaga Road to ferry crossing, further 18km north on Bamaga Road, then
Bamaga Road (Northern Bypass Road)/OTT 60km east to the coast. Travel time (4–5hr). This track is suitable only for experienced
junction to Ussher Point camping area four-wheel drivers and requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle with recovery gear.
Camper trailers are not recommended.
21Palmer goldfield ruins
Nick Smith© Qld Govt
Palmer Goldfield Resources Reserve
Discover fascinating relics of North Queensland’s biggest gold rush, To Laura
reminders of the region’s prosperous and colourful history. R. L. Jack
memorial
reek
Old mines, rusting machinery and traces
gC
Must Dos of the once-thriving Maytown township, Folders
r in
Hotel site Sp Scale
• Step into an exciting dating from the Palmer River gold rush of
Ol
0 5km
d Maytown a u r a R o
past when fortunes 1873, are scattered across this landscape. C ra d
le
were won and lost as Today the reserve is managed to protect Cre
ek
'old co a c h ro
you explore the mine the area’s rich cultural heritage.
Palmer Goldfield
−L
ruins. op Resources Reserve
Jess
• Wander around the
Access C k
re e
Usually from April to November.
ad'
Chinese cemetery
ad
r
ive
and Maytown ruins to Places to camp Jessop camp
er
R
lm
imagine life as it was Remote camping area on the southern Pa
German Bar
rth
here 130 years ago. bank of North Palmer River. No facilities. North
No
town site
Palmer River
• Swap yarns around camping area Chinese cemetery
the campfire about Chinese alluvial workings
the hardships endured Did you know? Louisa Mine ruins
by the diggers on the The ‘old coach road’ to Laura was Mabel Louise King of the Ranges Mine
workings
Palmer River. the route to the port of Cooktown.
Comet Mine ruins
Ida Mine ruins
Maytown
er
Riv
mer
Charcoal Pa
l
To Chillagoe burners Queen of the
via Palmerville North Mine and
township ruins
Dog Leg
Crossing
Pa
lm
er v
ille
Ro
a
Mining relics To PDR
d
© Qld Govt
Safety
When exploring, stay on signed
tracks marked on the map and don’t venture into
mining leases. Beware of previously mined areas,
as open and collapsed shafts are common.
22Shelfo Crossing on
the Mitchell River
Eric Wason © Qld Govt
Errk Oykangand National Park (CYPAL)
Journey into western Cape York Peninsula to experience the ‘Gulf
country’, and discover a landscape of incredible contrasts.
Did you know?
The hard dry cracked ground of
Bounded by two mighty rivers, the Alice Access the savannah becomes an inland
and Mitchell, this savannah landscape is sea in the wet season.
Usually from August/September to October.
inundated with nutrient-rich floodwaters Before you set out, contact the Secretary
during the wet season, as rivers spill over of the Abm Elgoring Ambung Aboriginal
their banks. The park is jointly managed Safety
Corporation on 0459 982 170 for advice.
by the Errk Oykangand National Park Land Ensure you are well
prepared and self-sufficient with
Trust and QPWS. Places to camp
adequate food, water, fuel and
Camp outside the park in the campground basic vehicle repair equipment.
Must Dos near Shelfo Crossing. Bookings are essential.
Be crocwise
• Picnic on the banks of the Contact the Secretary of the Abm Elgoring
Think twice—you’re
Mitchell River near Shelfo Ambung Aboriginal Corporation on 0459 982
in croc country (see page 27).
Crossing and spot a surprising 170. Camping is not permitted inside the park.
variety of birdlife.
• Find out about this park’s
To Kowanyama To Pormpuraaw
traditional significance for the Uw
Oykangand people (‘people of the
Shelfo
outside waterholes’). Crossing Alice River crossing
Shelfo Crossing
• Watch for emus, Australian campground
Alice Riv
bustards and eastern grey er
kangaroos in the open
savannah country.
Errk Oykangand
Scale National Park
0 5 10km (CYPAL)
Mi
tch
ell R
iver
Alice River near the crossing.
Eric Wason © Qld Govt
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