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Travel
Bay
watch
As San Francisco prepares
to celebrate its 50th Pride,
David Hudson suggests
there’s no better time to visit
84 FEBRUARY 2020 FEBRUARY 2020 85
Travel
I t’s a cool autumn evening in San Francisco
and I’m following a drag queen around
the Union Square district, listening to
notorious tales of the infamous Zodiac Killer
and Jim Jones’s Peoples Temple cult.
Castro Street, and the store has since been
taken over by the LGBTQ organisation Human
Rights Campaign, which sells t-shirts and
other merchandise to raise funds.
The vintage Castro Theatre still screens
The impact of the tech industry is
something many people talk about in San
Francisco. Apple, Uber, Lyft, and Salesforce are
just four of many companies that have their
headquarters in or near the city. Although this
Mary Vice is leading an evening ghost-walk movies, while popular local bars include Twin has brought an economic boost, it’s changing
tour for Wild SF Walking Tours. Standing in the Peaks which, when it turned gay in 1972, was the the landscape immeasurably.
lobby of the imposing Westin St Francis Hotel, first such venue to boast big windows looking A 10-minute walk from the Castro brings you
the suitably goth-looking Mary tells our small out on to the street: a bold move at a time when to the Mission. This area reminds me slightly of
group about an aspiring actress who died most queer spaces were hidden away. Shoreditch in London: formerly economically
under suspicious circumstances attending a Patrick Batt moved to San Francisco 39 disadvantaged but now becoming gentrified.
party with silent-film legend Fatty Arbuckle in years ago and has been running his vintage Preppy tech types with money are moving in
1921, and about the ghosts rumoured to haunt porn store, Auto Erotica, in The Castro for the and those without are being forced out of this
this grand old establishment. past 23 years. traditionally Latinx area. The district is a hot
That San Francisco has more than its fair “Thanks to the tech industry there are spot for street art, and many of the murals
share of murder stories is not surprising. The many more people,” he says when I ask him along Clarion Alley have a political edge, directly
city has acted as a magnet for drifters, the what changes he’s witnessed. “And those commentating on how the area is changing.
displaced, and those who simply felt different, people, at least from my perspective, have The Mission itself remains a mixture
for decades. This has famously included little interest in San Francisco or its history. of cheap eats and grunge. Homelessness
millions of LGBTQ people. “They want to live in the Castro because it’s is apparent in San Francisco, and this is PRIDE OF PLACE:
“I found a community here really quickly,” centrally located to get to and from work, but particularly true around Dolores Mission This crossroad in
the Castro has
Mary replies when I ask what brought her they’re not interested in, and do not support, Park. By contrast, head three blocks east of often been called
here from Philadelphia four years ago. “At the the neighbourhood.” Mission Street to Valencia Street and the vibe the gayest four
corners on Earth
time, I didn’t know where I was going to end Patrick believes the Castro will remain the notably shifts upmarket. Among the small art
up. I was checking out different places on the heart of gay life in the city, but in the same galleries, check out the bizarre Paxton Gate,
West Coast but I fell in love with the scene way that Soho in New York and Boystown in a store crammed with stuffed animals and WELL-BUILT: The Peace
Pagoda in Japantown
here. It was interesting and inviting. I felt you Chicago have changed, the neighbourhood is other oddities inspired “by the garden and
could get away with everything.” evolving. With the advance of gay rights, gay natural sciences”.
Her story is not uncommon. Frisco earned culture no longer has to be under ground. For a different neighbourhood experience,
a reputation as somewhere you could “get He adds: “With gay marriage, people can head to Japantown. Japanese people have been
away with everything” in the 1960s and 1970s, live and be wherever they want, so they don’t settling here since after the 1906 earthquake.
although its image as a gay nirvana took a necessarily need gay ghettos any more.” The district covered some 36 blocks before
blow in the Eighties with the arrival of the Aids WWII and was expanding but the attack on
epidemic. At the same time, other cities began Pearl Harbor in 1941 changed all that. The US
to develop gaybourhoods of their own.
“I fell in love with the scene government interned Japanese people during
I’m visiting San Fran for a glimpse of what here. I felt you could get the war and turned many of their homes and
it offers international visitors, but also with away with eveerything” businesses into social housing, but Japantown
one question at the forefront of my mind: is it survived — albeit in a smaller form — after the
still the mythical gay mecca of years past? conflict ended in 1945.
SAN FRAN FAN:
Like any metropolis, San Francisco — the city David Hudson You’ll still find dozens of Japanese
by the bay — boasts distinct neighbourhoods. businesses and cultural centres, while sushi
For gay people, the obvious one is the Castro. and ramen lovers will be spoilt for choice by
The most concentrated gay village in the whole the wealth of cuisine on offer.
of the US, rainbow flags hang on the lampposts Like other neighbourhoods, Japantown is
and a giant one flutters over the subway station. likely to prevail but residents are wary that big
The Castro covers a four-block district business may further encroach on this Asian
around the rainbow cross-walks at 18th and enclave. There are two Japan Centre shopping
Castro Streets. There are plenty of LGBTQ-run malls that are currently legally obliged to host
businesses. It was, and remains for some, a Japanese-themed businesses. However, those
glimpse of a queer utopia: where LGBTQ life, obligations expire in 2021 and some residents
for once, is not in the minority. fear that more homogenous high-street brands
For a true sense of the area’s history, visit will move in.
the GLBT Historical Society Museum. Staff are But what about the city’s really touristy stuff?
happy to talk to tourists. The most famous attraction has to be Alcatraz. LIGHTS, CAMERA
ACTION: The Castro
One of the city’s most famous residents I have to admit, I had little prior interest in Theatre opened
was Harvey Milk, who was shot by a fellow visiting the former prison, but it turns out to be on its present
site in 1922
politician. Milk ran a camera shop at 575 one of my highlights. >
86 FEBRUARY 2020 FEBRUARY 2020 87
Travel
BE SURE TO WEAR A
FLOWER IN YOUR HAIR:
Golden Gate Park. Right,
from top: Auto Erotica, the
GLBT history museum
and taxidermy shop
Paxton Gate
About a mile off the coast, The Rock is clearly with the names of those lost to the illness. It’s
visible from San Francisco and is woven into a sobering and moving experience.
the city’s DNA, despite closing as a high-security Like Patrick, Tom Burtch is a long-term
federal penitentiary in 1963. San Francisco resident. He began visiting
Once you leave the ferry, climb the hill to the city from Wisconsin in 1973 and moved
the one-time jail-house and take the audio permanently in 1985, searching for sexual
tour. Listen to former inmates and prison liberation. Now 70 and working as a volunteer
officers recount the history, taking you into at the GLBT Historical Museum, he says it still
the cells of those imprisoned there — inmates offers something unique, even if the cost of
included Al Capone, Machine Gun Kelly and living has spiralled.
Birdman Robert Stroud. “I sing with the Gay Men’s Chorus and
The entire Bay Area — one of San Fran’s we’ve just had a number of members say they
many nicknames is Bay City — boasts its own can’t afford to make it here any more. It’s the
micro-climate, and on the day I visit, the economics more than the actual change in
island is wrapped in thick fog, making the the gayness of San Francisco that’s had am
Where to stay visit all the more eerie and ghostly. impact,” he says.
When you arrive back from Alcatraz, it’s “More gay presence in society in general
The Kimpton Buchanan a short walk from the ferry terminal to Pier has possibly made San Francisco a little less
The Buchanan, at 1800 Sutter Street, in 39, which is crammed with souvenir stores, “special” in terms of what it has to offer the
Japantown, close to posh Pacific Heights boutiques and other businesses looking for community, and [Mayor] Dianne Feinstein
and overlooking Peace Plaza, reopened your tourist dollars. It’s worth visiting for the closing the bathhouses, in that early knee-jerk
in early 2019 having had a makeover city’s very noisy sea lions. reaction in the early days of Aids, did a lot
(check out the chandelier in the lobby, These “sea-lebrities”, which live off the to make San Francisco a less wild and crazy
made up of 3,100 whisky bottles). In West Marina, are a phenomenon. A small place than the reputation it had received.”
keeping with the neighbourhood, there number of them began to appear following That’s not to say queer night life isn’t
are Japanese touches throughout, such the 6.9-magnitude Loma Prieta earthquake flourishing — far from it. From behind the
as the kimono-style dressing gown in 1989. Due to a plentiful supply of herring counter at the human rights centre store, Where to eat
in each room, art, and a nightly saké and the protected environment, the creatures two gay men in their twenties tell me about
receptionin the lobby. Room prices start realised they’d found themselves a cosy home. Izakaya Kou Le Marais Bakery Fog Harbor Fish House
at $209/night (£159).
thebuchananhotel.com
An increasing number turned up, hitting an
all-time record of 1,700 in 2009. They have
“Golden Gate Park covers The walls of this Japanese restaurant, at
1560 Fillmore Street, are decked out with
A cutesy, French-inspired bakery with
branches around the city, including at 498
Situated at Pier 39, this upmarket, family-run
eatery has amazing views of Alcatraz and
become a tourist spectacle. more than 1,000 acres. It reclaimed wooden planks, lending a warm Sanchez Street in the Castro. Choose from the Golden Gate Bridge. As such, it offers
Other attractions with a “wow” factor include can take hours to explore” cosy feeling to the interior. Nestled in the the set menu. I have the biggest Croque the quintessential San Francisco dining
the huge San Francisco Museum of Modern Art heart of Japantown, it offers a large range Monsieur (£15/£11.50) I’ve ever enjoyed, experience. There are loads of seafood dishes,
and the newly opened and awe-inspiring Chase their favourite bars. David Doucette, originally of freshly prepared sushi, sashimi and ramen made with the lightest, thickest, fluffiest which, although maybe a little on the pricey
Center, home to the NBA Warriors basketball from another part of California, says he came dishes. Try the charred Brussels sprouts slices of white bread – or assemble your own side, won’t fail to impress. I hoover up seared
team and the venue for numerous pop concerts. to San Francisco because he saw it as the centre ($8/£6), far more delicious than any boiled dish: five ingredients for a salad at $12 (£9) jumbo scallops and crab risotto ($36/£27.50).
Golden Gate Park is not next to the bridge of gay life and it has “lived up to expectations.” British version, and the Kou bomb: spicy or seven for three dollars more. The portions The place is popular so it’s a good idea to
of the same name. However, do seek it out. He recommends Castro bars 440 and Moby Dick, tuna wrapped with avocado and topped with are huge — perfect if you want to load up on reserve a table in advance.
Like New York’s Central Park, it’s vast, covering along with The Stud and Powerhouse in the deep-fried taro chips, and — for that bomb fresh fruit and vegetables before indulging in fogharbor.com
more than 1,000 acres — it can easily take Soma district (South of Market Street). flourish – a lighted sparkler! a naughtier treat from the bakery counter.
several hours to explore and is home to a His friend and co-worker Delvin Hodges lemaraisbakery.com Golden Gate Fortune Cookies
number of institutions, including the de warns that although San Francisco is the This tiny factory in Chinatown is San Fran’s
Young Museum of modern art, which also epicentre for gay life for some, queer people of The Slanted Door most famous fortune cookie producer. It’s
offers a great viewing platform overlooking colour like him haven’t always felt the same An award-winning Vietnamese restaurant in not much more than an open kitchen where
the city. Opposite the de Young is the sense of belonging. He recommends a bar called the old Ferry Building, at the Embarcadero. a couple of women turn out up to 10,000
Flights impressive California Academy of Sciences. Jolene’s, on the border of Mission and Soma. With its huge windows overlooking the Bay cookies every day. You can take a tour of
I also recommend the nearby National Aids “Their slogan, in this pink triangle, says ‘You Bridge (which connects the city to Oakland), the store, or just pop in to watch them at
SAN FRANCISCO TRAVEL ASSOCIATION PHOTO
Norwegian launched non-stop flights Memorial Grove. are safe here’. That’s what Jolene’s symbolises for this makes for a memorable San Francisco work and buy a bag of goodies. You can
from Gatwick to San Francisco in the It was conceived in 1989 when the city a lot of people who lost their familiarity with dining experience. But beware, it’s busy even pay to have a personalised message
summer, operated by a fleet of new was in the grip of the epidemic, with the aim San Francisco. They find it in Jolene’s.” every day of the week. I enjoy grilled wild written on a slip of paper before watching
Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft. Fares of providing a healing sanctuary for those Away from the Castro, there are many bars gulf shrimp with rice vermicelli noodles it being placed inside a cookie to give to
start from £280 return in Low Fare affected by HIV and the loss of loved ones. dotted around Soma. The Stud is one name ($35/£26) – one of several noodle dishes someone back home.
economy, including taxes, subject to To this day, it remains a beautifully tended that pops up often. Facing potential closure on the tastebud-tingling menu. Leave room goldengatefortunecookie.squarespace.com
availability. Call 0330 828 0854. woodland grotto to explore. As you find in 2016, the long-running establishment was for the confections plate ($16/£12) with its
norwegian.com yourself walking beneath the fronds of giant taken over by a co-operative of performers home-made cotton candy, aka candyfloss. To enjoy a food tour of Chinatown, visit
ferns, you’ll spot the many rocks engraved and other scene folk. One of them is Marke slanteddoor.com sffoodtour.com/walkingtours
88 FEBRUARY 2020 FEBRUARY 2020 89
Travel
JAIL BAIT: Formerly
a prison, the island
of Alcatraz is now a
tourist attraction
Bieschke, who also edits local publication 48
Hills and The San Francisco Bay Guardian.
“San Francisco has changed a lot but it’s not
less gay in terms of its offerings,” he tells me
over a coffee.
“There is still a wonderful underground
of queer people, of gender-non-conforming
people, trans people, who are pushing the
envelope in relation to arts and music.
That’s been a little overshadowed by the tech
industry, but the tech industry is surprisingly
made up of so many young gay men that
there’s been a flush of them into the scene.
“Underground dance parties and sex
parties have been revived by them… we didn’t
really have those. That’s kind of exploded.”
He recommends Comfort & Joy, and Honey
Soundsystem, as clubs to check out. I make it
a mission to visit the legendary Sunday Beer
Blast at the San Francisco Eagle and I’m not
disappointed.
The venue is dark, scuzzy and illuminated
with red lighting. Posters for club promotions
past and present adorn the walls.
The outdoor area, with camouflage netting
and mirror-balls, is packed with burly men,
and a giant leather flag flies above the
building. The city designated this area as its
Leather and LGBTQ Cultural District in 2018
and is creating a “leather plaza” – a public
park outside the bar.
You’ll find a similar welcome at biker bar, The
Hole in The Wall Saloon, while bears hang out at PLACE FOR REFLECTION: The
National Aids Memorial Grove
the Lone Star Saloon and at the aforementioned
Powerhouse. The annual leather and S&M-
themed Folsom Street Fair takes place in this community group: three naked men standing Marke adds: “A gay city supervisor, Scott
neighbourhood each September. outside the theatre at about 7pm. They don’t Wiener, went on a campaign to get rid of
The biggest LGBTQ gathering, appear to be doing anything and no one is public nudity, so now it’s only allowed at
unsurprisingly, is Pride. After the focus taking much notice of them. In any other city certain street fairs. And the compromise,
on New York in 2019 for the Stonewall in the world, they’d probably be arrested. because there was an outcry about it, is that
anniversary, all eyes will be on San Francisco they can walk around as long as they wear
this summer for its own 50th celebration. “They’re nudists. They can cock socks. It’s just a very San Francisco thing.”
It’s sure to be a huge event, although, like I find it reassuring that I can still stumble
elsewhere in the world, conversations around
walk around as long as across a trio of nudists casually hanging out
the corporate presence abound. they wear cock socks”” in the Castro, but Marke’s words are a reminder
“Two years ago, the contingent [in the that things ain’t what they used to be.
parade] from Apple was something like 45 “Were they wearing cock socks?” asks Marke However, the 50th anniversary of San
minutes long,” recalls Tom Burtch. “We’re very when I question him about them. Francisco Pride is the perfect time to plan a trip.
happy Apple are supportive but we don’t need Actually, I recall, one did appear to be It’s sure to show off the city in all its queer glory.
to see 3,000 [of their] employees.” wearing a sequin-encrusted condom over his But the main reason for going sooner rather
Organisers tell me they now limit willy, but not the others. than later is that San Fran is changing and
contingents to 1,500 people. It’s not difficult “Oh, they’re supposed to,” he laughs. “Maybe there’s no predicting what the city will be like
to imagine smaller community groups might they were protesting. They’re nudists. There a few years down the line.
still feel overshadowed by the tech giants. used to be a whole contingent of them,
On my Sunday evening walk around the and they used to be tourist attractions and sftravel.com
Castro, I’m surprised to come across one such nobody would blink an eye.” wildsftours.com
90 FEBRUARY 2020 FEBRUARY 2020 91
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