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Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket
Welcome
One of the most-visited destinations
in the world, Thailand is an explosion
of scents, flavours and experiences,
bursting with places to see, things to do
and food to eat.
The Thai capital, Bangkok, is a
cosmopolitan metropolis that boasts
a fascinating juxtaposition of ancient
spired temples sitting alongside
glittering high-rise structures; buzzing
night markets set amid modern malls; is also home to luxurious resorts, world-
and shophouse eateries coexisting with class spa retreats, an incredible food
swanky restaurants. scene and a vibrant nightlife.
Bangkok serves as a gateway to This handy guide to Bangkok and
many other parts of Thailand, including Phuket fleshes out popular places of
Phuket, the country’s biggest and interest as well as off-the-beaten-track
busiest island. An irresistible draw for gems, and rounds up where to eat, what
beach lovers for its azure-blue waters to do, where to get your massage fix, and
and powdery stretches of sand, Phuket how to make the most of your visit.
Creative Guide Editor Nick Dent Contributors Ana Kalaw, Jonathan Cook, Nicola Dowse,
Cass Knowlton, Top Koaysomboon, Rebecca Russo Designer Robert Polmear
Executive Managing Director Michael Rodrigues General Manager Jason Woodards
Associate Publisher Phil Bunting Sales Director Elise Bucholtz Editorial Director Nick Dent
Produced by Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd’s Custom Guide Division on behalf of
Tourism Authority of Thailand
© Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd (ABN 50 125 441 812), a company owned by Time Out Group Plc. All rights reserved. The
opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily the views of the publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part is not
permitted without the written permission of Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd. The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability
for errors or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on
information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular
circumstances. Printed by Webstar, Bluestar Group, 83 Derby Street, Silverwater, NSW 2128. www.bspga.com.au.
Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |3
Events calendar Things to do
p6 p8
Bangkok Food & Drink
p12
Art & Culture
p20
Action & Adventure Relax
p22 p24
Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |5
Bangkok
Events calendar 2019
When should you time your trip to Thailand’s capital?
We’ve compiled a list of some of the important festivals
and events to help you make the most of your visit
Amazing Thailand Marathon Vertical Marathon Mar 10 New Year’s Eve
Feb 3 Runners race vertically up the 1,093
This famous endurance race ends at the steps (61 storeys) of the Banyan Tree Amazing Thai Taste Festival
Democracy Monument, where runners Bangkok Hotel. This will be the 20th year Jun 7-9
can enjoy Thai food and entertainment. the race has been held. This festival in Siam Square promotes
Thailand’s diverse gastronomy with more
Chinese New Year Feb 5 Songkran Festival Apr 13-15 than 100 food stalls as well as live music
Ring in the Year of the Pig in Yaowaraj, Celebrate the Thai New Year with an epic performances and famous chefs giving
Songkran Festival
Bangkok’s Chinatown. Expect fireworks, street water fight the entire length of cooking demonstrations.
acrobatic dancers and dragon parades Silom Road or Khao San Road. Vendors
in the street, and wear red and eat along the way will sell you water pistols Vegetarian Festival lakes and small canals as a symbol of
dumplings and noodles for prosperity and balloons, as well as plenty of food Sep 28-Oct 7 letting go of bad luck and honouring the
and good health in the new year. and drink, to take part in the festivities. Participating businesses hang yellow flags Goddess of Water.
and serve a dazzling array of vegetarian
dishes. By night, Chinese opera is New Year’s Eve Dec 31
performed in the streets of Chinatown. Hundreds of thousands of people gather
everywhere from bars to plazas to party
BDMS Bangkok Marathon and ring in the new year.
Nov 17
Bangkok’s famous annual marathon
involves a course that traverses
historical monuments of the city,
starting and finishing in front of the
Royal Grand Palace.
Loy Krathong Nov 13
One of the most beautiful festivals in
Bangkok is Loy Krathong, when people
release lotus-shaped rafts decorated with
BDMS Bangkok Marathon Chinese New Year
candles, incense and flowers onto rivers,
6 | Bangkok Events calendar Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |7
Bangkok The Grand Palace
& The Temple of the
Things to Do Emerald Buddha
This complex of buildings in the heart of
Bangkok is the city’s architectural and
Bangkok assaults the senses with majestic sights. spiritual treasure. Nearly two kilometres
We’ve homed in on the most memorable experiences of walls with lotus-shaped crenellations
enclose what was once a self-contained
this exuberant city has to offer city of throne halls, royal chambers,
servants’ quarters, ministries and a
prison. Allow at least a two-hour visit;
sandals, shorts and bare shoulders are
forbidden. The Temple of the Emerald
Wat Pho
Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew) is the country’s
most important Buddhist temple and
houses Phra Kaew Morakot, a Buddha the remains of kings Rama II and III. The
that has been carved from a single block temple remains a repository of traditional
of jade.à www.royalgrandpalace.th/en/home. medicine and nuad paen boran (ancient
massage), and you can book a massage
Wat Pho for during your visit. à 2 Sanamchai Rd, Pra
This vast temple houses the magnificent Nakhon, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 226 0335.
golden Reclining Buddha. Made from
brick and gilded plaster, it measures 46 Wat Arun
by 15 metres and depicts the posture of Seen on 10-baht coin, this five-spired
the Buddha while entering nirvana. Wat landmark of around 80 metres in height
Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing
Pho also has 99 stupas, two of which hold has been known as the ‘Temple of Dawn’
ever since the soon-to-be King Taksin
Wat Suthat and the governess immortalised in The King and landed by the then Wat Magog at sunrise
Giant Swing I and a teacher in the Siamese court in October 1767. Wat Arun features a pair
Standing in City Hall square, the Giant of King Rama IV. In 2006, the rickety of yaksa (giant) statues, ceramic gables
Swing (Sao Ching Cha) was originally timbers were replaced by the structure and 120 Buddha images. Don’t rush
erected in 1784 as part of the adjacent you see today. Looming behind the Giant a visit on a canal tour: instead, access
Devasathan, a Brahmin compound of Swing, the temple of Wat Suthat houses the temple via the public ferry from Tha
shrines to Shiva, Ganesha and Vishnu. the awe-inducing, eight-metre, 800-year- Tien and wander the temple grounds for
In the past a ceremony celebrating the old Phra Sri Sakyamuni Buddha. One as long as you wish.à 34 Arun Amarin Rd,
god Shiva would require four brave men of the largest surviving Sukhothai-era Thonburi, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 891 1149.
to swing from this lofty red frame to grab bronzes, this statue contains the ashes
at pouches of coins (the ritual ceased in of King Rama VIII at its base. Begun Wat Benchamabophit
the 1930s due to fatalities). The poles by Rama I in 1807, the temple took Clad in Italian Carrara marble, Wat
were erected in 1919 to honour the son three reigns to complete. à 268 Dinso Rd, Benchamabophit is a well proportioned
Wat Arun
of Anna Leonowens, the contentious Bangkok. +66 (0)2 222 6951. meld of East and West designed by
8 | Bangkok Things to Do Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |9
Now a museum, it exhibits Thompson’s
Asian artefacts and looks much like it did
when he mysteriously disappeared into
Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967.
à 6/1 Kasemsan Soi 2, Rama I Rd, Bangkok.
+66 (0)2 216 7368. www.jimthompsonhouse.com.
Lhong 1919
Lhong 1919 is a sprawling space
preserving and promoting ancient
Sino-Siamese architecture and culture.
Restaurants retain the crumbling walls
and murals of the original structures,
Chatuchak Weekend Market
and craft shops and galleries are also
appealing draws. à 248 Chiang Mai Rd,
Italian architect Hercules Manfredi. Klong San, Bangkok. +66 (0)9 1187 1919.
Commissioned in 1899 by Rama V (one www.lhong1919.com.
room contains his ashes), the temple
features stained-glass windows depicting King Power Mahanakhon
scenes from Thai mythology and a replica Skywalk
of Thailand’s much-venerated Buddha Set atop Thailand’s tallest building, the
image.à Cnr Si Ayutthaya & Nakhon Pathom Rds, Skywalk comprises an observation deck
Dusit, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 281 2501. and a rooftop bar that offer 360-degree
Wat Benchamabophit
www.watbencha.com. views of the City of Angels. Put your
courage to the test by walking out to a
Erawan Shrine jeans to a kitten, as well as clothing, Bang Kra Jao glass floor that looks down over 300
Thais are able to seamlessly fuse ceramics, furniture, food and drink, This protected wooded peninsula seems metres. à 74/F-78/F, King Power Mahanakhon,
modernity with spiritual beliefs. This gardening accessories, books and like the countryside, yet it’s just 15 114 Narathiwas Rd, Silom, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 677
ability is encapsulated at the frenetic antiques. à Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd, minutes by road and ferry from the Klong 8721. kingpowermahanakhon.co.th/skywalk/.
Hindu shrine to Brahma, erected in 1956 Chatuchak, Bangkok. Toey MRT. Explore Bangkok’s ‘green lung’
to appease displaced spirits who were by bicycle. Frequent boats from Wat Klong Experience local transport
blamed for mishaps in the building of the Night markets Toey Nok Pier stop at a pierside shop that Bangkok offers a plethora of choices for
old Erawan Hotel. Pilgrims gather here to A key part of any trip to Bangkok is a visit rents them out for B100/hr.à Kasemrat Rd, getting around. The iconic Tuk Tuk, a three-
make wishes. à Ratchaprasong Intersection, to the night markets. Sift through piles of Klong Toey, Bangkok. wheeled, motor-propelled conveyance,
Ratchadamri Rd, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 254 1234. pre-loved goods and vintage collectibles is the tourist’s favourite way of travel,
at one of the Rod Fai markets (a large Jim Thompson’s House but there’s also the elevated BTS rapid
Chatuchak Weekend Market market is on Srinakarin Soi 51, while a Jim Thompson was a US architect who transit system and the underground MRT,
This 14-hectare market hosts an smaller, more accessible market is on settled in Thailand at the end of World War both of which have stops at major points
astonishing 8,000 stalls every Friday Ratchada Road). You can also make the II and started a company selling luxurious in the city. Bangkok also has a network of
night and all day Saturday and Sunday. trek to Chang Chui, which features trendy fabrics. In 1959, he adapted six teak klongs (canals), which you can traverse
You can find everything from a pair of stalls and artisanal products. houses into a modern living compound. aboard traditional long-tailed boats.
10 | Bangkok Things to Do Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |11
Bangkok teakwood-house setting. Look out for
Food & Drink
nicely balanced dishes such as Gaeng
Mussaman Gai (chicken curry) and Seau
Rong Hai (Thai-style grilled rib-eye steak).
à 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd, Bangkok.
In Bangkok, you can get Michelin-starred excellence +66 (0)2 612 3601. jimthompsonrestaurant.com.
and some of the best street food in the world – and 2 Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin
sometimes, both at once An extraordinary experience for food
lovers, this Michelin-starred restaurant
in Siam Kempinski Hotel has a molecular
approach to Thai food. Here, red curry is
Old City transformed into ice cream and Tom Yum
Paste Bangkok
(hot and sour soup) comes in jelly form.à
Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama I Rd, Bangkok.
Siam Chidlom, Ploenchit +66 (0)2 162 9000. www.srabuabykiinkiin.com/en. Street Baking Company, or go for more
& Lang Suan affordable options from the food stalls
Chinatown
3 Siam Square in the sprawling basement-situated
Ratchadamri & Located in Bangkok’s most popular food court.à 991/1 Rama I Rd, Bangkok.
Ratchaprasong Sukhumvit
Chao Phraya shopping district, the Siam Square www.siamparagon.co.th.
River complex is a central hub for teenagers.
Silom
Sathorn
Bangkok Simple eateries such as Inter and Som
Tam Nua line the streets, peddling
6 CentralWorld
Run your errands at the shops, then
unpretentious, home-style Thai fare. chomp on goodies from renowned
à Rama I Rd, Bangkok. www.siam-square.com. culinary names including Din Tai Fung
and Honmono Sushi. Another highlight?
4 Siam Center Cocktails with stunning views at rooftop
You’ll find great food choices at this bar Red Sky in the adjoining Centara
Siam and cutting-edge downtown mall such as Grand at CentralWorld Hotel. à 999/9
Ratchadamri/ Thai fusion food from renowned local Rama I Rd, Bangkok. www.centralworld.co.th.
Ratchaprasong restaurants like Kang Ban Phe and Petite
Find eats in retail surrounds and the Audrey. The bustling Food Republic, its 7 Ginza Sushi Ichi
classiest food courts you’ll ever see fourth-floor food court, is an excellent Sublime sushi awaits at this 14-seat
spot to grab international bites.à 989 Michelin-starred restaurant, where
Rama I Rd, Bangkok. www.siamcenter.co.th. disciples from the original Tokyo outpost
1 Jim Thompson Restaurant serve traditional cuts of mouth-watering
and Wine Bar 5 Siam Paragon toro nigiri and heavenly delicacies like
A slice of old Thailand right in the While you’re enjoying the opulence of venus clam and sea urchin.à Lower Ground
heart of the city, Jim Thompson has this luxury mall, you can eat like a king Fl Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini,
silk-upholstered chairs and greenery- at upscale venues like Bankara Ramen, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 250 0014. www.ginza-sushiichi.
Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin
decorated chandeliers in an old Bombyx Jim Thompson and Clinton jp/english/shop/bangkok.html.
12 | Bangkok Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |13
8 Paste Bangkok with foie gras and grilled cod with sake zesty Gaeng (curry) renditions.à 131
This Michelin-starred restaurant delivers and soba risotto.à 25th Fl, Okura Prestige, 57 Sukhumvit Soi 53, Klong Tan Nuea, Bangkok.
classic regional Thai food with twists. Top Wireless Rd, Ploenchit, Bangkok. +66 2 687 9000. + 66 (0)2 059 0433. www.r-haan.com.
dishes include a lobster salad with fried www.okurabangkok.com/en/elements-book.html.
fish skins and edible flowers, pork belly 20 Canvas
buns with chilli jam, and soft-shell crab 15 Gaa At this Michelin-starred dining room
with green apple and mango. à3/F, Gaysorn At Michelin-starred Gaa, chef Garima attentive waiters describe the parade of
Village, 999 Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini, Bangkok. Arora’s tasting menus reveal a new- fare made from local ingredients.à 113/9-
+66 (0)2 656 1003. www.pastebangkok.com. school take on Indo-Siamese cuisine. 10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, Klong Tan Nuea, Bangkok.
à 68/4 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini, +66 (0)99 614 1158. www.canvasbangkok.com.
Bangkok. +66 91 419 2424. www.gaabkk.com.
Chidlom, Ploenchit, 21 Thonglor
Lang Suan & Sukhumvit 16 Sorn Soi Thonglor is a stretch of boutiques
Expect Michelin-starred dining Michelin-starred Sorn has a tasting menu and some of the city’s most popular
rooms and the city’s trendiest eats highlighting refined versions of authentic restaurants, brunch spots and cafés.
recipes, such as sour yellow curry with When the sun sets, it’s also the place to
Spirit Jim Thompson
young mangosteen and gu fish.à 56 converge for bars, clubs and live music.
9 Spirit Jim Thompson Sukhumvit Soi 26, Klong Toey, Bangkok. +66 (0) 99 à Sukhumvit Soi 55, Klong Tan Nuea, Bangkok.
The menu offers innovative twists Lumpini, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 252 8001. 081 1119. www.sornfinesouthern.com.
on traditional plates, such as duck www.restaurantsavelberg.com. 22 Upstairs at Mikkeller
confit with red curry sauce served with 17 Chim by Siam Wisdom Chef/owner Dan Bark shows his chops
peaches and curried tomatoes. à 16 Soi 12 Gaggan Iron Chef Thailand alum Thaninthorn with progressive American plates at this
Somkid, Lumpini, Bangkok. +66(0)2 017 7268. Gaggan Anand’s two Michelin-starred “Noom” Chantrawan runs this one Michelin-starred dining room.à 26 Ekkamai
www.spiritjimthompson.com. restaurant highlights complex flavours Michelin-starred destination, notable Soi 10, Ln 2, Phra Khanong Nuea, Bangkok. +66 (0)
in a tasting menu featuring molecular for uncompromising curries. à 66 Soi 91 713 9034. www.upstairs-restaurant.com.
10 Saneh Jaan versions of familiar Indian recipes. Sukhumvit 31, Klong Toey, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 260
Bearer of one Michelin star, Saneh Jaan à 68/1 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini, 7811. www.siamwisdomcuisine.com.
unleashes a monsoon of flavours via Bangkok. +66 2 652 1700. eatatgaggan.com.
dishes such as Gaeng Ranjuan (shrimp 18 Bo.lan
paste-based pork soup) and an aromatic 13 Eathai This Michelin-awarded restaurant offers
Tom Kha Gai (chicken coconut soup). A grand hall brings together vendors from modernised Royal Thai cuisine and draws
à 130 Wireless Rd, Lumpini, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 Bangkok’s top street kiosks serving from hyper-local sources including its own
650 9880. www.glasshouseatsindhorn.com/ noodles, spicy northern salads, Pad Thai backyard garden.à 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53,
restaurant/saneh-jaan. and vegetarian options. à Lower Ground Fl, Klong Tan Nuea, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 260 7811.
Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd, Bangkok. www.bolan.co.th.
11 Savelberg www.centralembassy.com/store/eathai/.
Dutch chef Henk Savelberg matches 19 R-Haan
premium ingredients with technical 14 Elements This Michelin-starred venue reinvents the
sleight of hand at his Michelin star- This stylish venue lives up to its Michelin traditional samrub (set of shared dishes),
awarded, French-inspired restaurant. star with Japanese-influenced New from the flavourful krueng jim options
R-Haan
à Oriental Residence Bangkok, 110 Wireless Rd, French cuisine such as Hokkaido scallops (dips with assorted vegetables) to the
14 | Bangkok Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |15
Wagyu beef Panang curry with peanuts,
Silom & Sathorn shallots and Thai basil.à Metropolitan Chao Phraya
These upscale dining rooms will Bangkok, 27 South Sathorn Rd, Sathorn, Bangkok. Riverside
require a bit of your time and a bit +66 (0)2 625 3333. www.comohotels.com/en/ Head to the market – and a stop at
more from your pocket metropolitanbangkok/dining/nahm. legendary dining institution
26 Saawaan
Saawaan translates to ‘heaven’ in Thai 29 Wang Lang Market
and, true to its name, the menu at this Come with an empty stomach during the
Michelin-awarded dining room is out day and feast on delicious northeastern
Sook Siam
of this world, offering deconstructed food at Som Tam Jae Yupin, Thai-style
versions of ubiquitous Thai favourites. folded pancakes at Pa Tim’s Tank Taek
à 39/19 Soi Suanplu, Sathorn, Bangkok. Pancake, grilled pork skewers from every fair-themed food hall hosting 77 stalls
+66 (0)2 679 3775. www.saawaan.com. other stall, tropical fruits and sweet Thai that represent every region of Thailand.
desserts. à Soi Wang Lang, Siriraj, Bangkok Noi. à 299 Charoen Nakhon Soi 5, Charoen Nakhon
27 Sühring Rd, Klong San, Bangkok. www.iconsiam.com.
There’s a tangible air of expectation (the 30 Asiatique
Nahm
restaurant has two Michelin stars, after all) This tourist-friendly riverside night 32 Sala Rattanakosin
for a tasting menu that blends elaborate market has brewpubs, steakhouses and Eatery and Bar
23 Le Du plates with rustic German cooking. à 10 seafood restaurants, as well as a clean, Dining options at the lavish Sala
A seamless, Michelin-approved Yen Akat Soi 3, Chong Nonsi, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 well-lit food court hawking favourite Thai Rattanakosin hotel are split between
succession of innovative dishes includes 287 1799. restaurantsuhring.com. street eats.à 2194 Charoenkrung Rd, Wat the swish Eatery and Bar, which serves
Wagyu beef with pickled cabbage, Phraya Krai, Bangkok. www.asiatiquethailand.com. east-meets-west plates, and the Roof,
prawns cooked on a hot stone and pork 28 J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain a more laidback rooftop hangout
tongue and pork blood pudding. à 399/3 This upscale restaurant, recognised by 31 Iconsiam that offers cocktails with Thai flavour
Silom Soi 7, Bangrak, Bangkok. +66 (0)92 919 Michelin with one star, combines French This newly opened riverside shopping profiles. Both enjoy panoramic views. à
9969. www.ledubkk.com. cuisine with the shared dining concept complex has seven dining zones and Sala Rattanakosin, 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin
typical of Asian meals. à U Sathorn Bangkok, more than 100 restaurants. SookSiam, Island, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 622 1388. www.
24 Mezzaluna 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn, Bangkok. +66 located in the lower ground level, is a salahospitality.com/rattanakosin/en/dine/
Soy-glazed snapper with foie gras or (0)2 119 4899. www.jaime-bangkok.com. eatery-and-bar/.
grilled Nagasaki Wagyu beef rib-eye with
Perigord truffle, plus views of the Chao 33 Le Normandie
Phraya River, add up to an exquisite two- At this legendary two Michelin-starred
Michelin-starred experience.à 65th Fl, dining room, dishes such as Oscietra
Tower Club at Le Bua, Silom Rd, Bangrak, Bangkok. caviar with sea urchin and potato, and
+66 (0)2 624 9555. www.lebua.com. lamb Allaiton with eggplant and black
garlic are a perfect match for the full-
25 Nahm bodied Rhône reds on the wine list.
The dishes that earned Nahm its à Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave,
Michelin star include smoky prawn salad Bangrak, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 659 9000.
Saawaan Le Normandie
with tea tree leaves and star fruit, and www.mandarinoriental.com.
16 | Bangkok Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |17
stir-fries and sugary Thai desserts.
à Klang Mueang Rd, Khon Kaen, Bangkok.
37 Khaosan
Khaosan Road and its adjacent alleys
are a thrilling exhibition of Thai street
food. Neon signs promise jok (rice
porridge), Khao Ka Moo (pork leg braised
in sweet soy and spices), fruit shakes,
banana pancakes and Pad Thai.
Jay Fai El Chiringuito
à Khaosan Rd, Talat Yot, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok.
38 Jay Fai flour, eggs and fresh, plump oysters.
Old City Customers queue for Michelin-starred Chinatown à 539 Phlap Phla Chai Rd, Samphanthawong,
Go here for street food street food: a bursting-at-the-seams crab Come with an open mind for some of Bangkok. +66 (0)89 773 3133.
omelette and mouth-watering Poo Phad the best food in the city
Pong Kari (crab curry with scrambled 43 Jek Pui Curry
34 Phraeng Phuthorn eggs). The owner/chef wok-fries orders, Look beyond the plastic stools and the
This long, narrow street is densely packed her head wrapped in protective goggles 40 Yaowarat Road rickety cart and you’ll find reliable, tasty
with cheap food stalls. Those in the and a ski cap.à 327 Mahachai Rd, Phra Vendors line Chinatown’s main drag, all fare. All the curry staples and stir-fries the
know make a beeline for the Cantonese- Nakhon, Bangkok. +66 (0)92 724 9633. in the shadow of dilapidated shophouse stall specialises in are likely to sell out.
style egg noodles at Phraeng Phuthorn structures. Diners take their seats on à 427 Mangkon Rd, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 222 5229.
Noodle, while the more daring seek out 39 Methavalai Sorndaeng plastic stools at makeshift tables and
the Tom Samong Moo (pig’s brain soup) It opened more than 50 years ago, was tuck into fried rice, stir-fried noodles, 44 Guay Jub Ouan Pochana
at Samong Moo Thai Tham. à Phraeng recently awarded one Michelin star and grilled fish, sweetened offals and This street-food stall is famous for its
Phuthorn Rd, Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok. retains the iconic waiters in stuffy white glutinous desserts.à Yaowarat Rd, Chinese-style Guay Jub (rolled rice
jackets and 1950s soundtrack.à 78/2 Samphanthawong, Bangkok. noodles), the epitome of rainy-day comfort
35 Dinso Road Ratchadamnoen, Bowonniwet, Phra Nakhon, food with silky rice noodles and pork belly
At this throbbing street food centre, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 224 3088. 41 T & K Seafood steeped in piping hot, peppery broth.
sidewalk vendors and shophouse What’s probably the most famous à 408 Yaowarat Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok.
eateries vie for attention. Follow the seafood joint in Chinatown has generous +66 (0)86 508 9979.
smells, the smoke and the locals portions, fresh ingredients, and brisk
towards Krua Apsorn for its fluffy crab service. Try the boiled cockles and 45 Soi Nana
meat omelette, and Nai Ouan Yentafo, mussels or the grilled fish that’s cooked A lively Chinatown area (not to be confused
proud purveyor of Ba Teng (braised pork right on the street. à 49-51 Phadung Dao Rd, with the one along Sukhumvit Road), Soi
belly).à Dinso Rd, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok. Samphanthawong, Bangkok. Nana has eateries, bars and cafés. A cool
atmosphere pervades Thai-influenced
36 Bang Lampu Market 42 Nai Mong Hoy Tod speakeasy Tep Bar, gin haunt Teens of
All the classic Thai street food dishes are This storefront provides some of the Thailand, postmodern lounge Asia Today,
represented at this market. Get your fill of best Hoy Tod (oyster omelette) in the city. and tapas spot El Chiringuito.à Soi Nana,
Khaosan Road
steaming Tom Yum (aromatic clear soup), Here, the springy dish is made with tapioca Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Bangkok.
18 | Bangkok Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |19Bangkok Museum Siam
Art & Culture
Learn how Siam became Thailand, and
more. The museum uses interactive
exercises and tech-driven methods.à 4
Sanam Chai Rd, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok. +66 (0)2
Immerse yourself in Thailand’s unique culture via 225 2777. www.museumsiam.org.
these creative things to see and do in the capital
The Loom Weaving Workshop
A boutique that doubles as a DIY
Bangkok Art & Culture SookSiam at Iconsiam workshop offers the chance to learn how
Center (BACC) Styled like an ‘indoor floating market’, to make those intricately woven Thai silk
Bangkok’s burgeoning contemporary art the 15,000m2 space features a warren bags and scarves. à 3rd Fl, Gateway Ekamai,
scene has the home it deserves in BACC, of street food stalls and boutiques that 982/22, Sukhumvit Rd, Phra Khanong, Bangkok.
a multi-storey, modernist structure that highlight the cultural specialties of a +66 (0)2 001 5715. www.silkweavinghobby.com.
hosts perspective-shifting exhibitions, different regions. It’s truly impossible
shows and performances by local to leave empty-handed or with an empty MOCA Bangkok
talents alongside works by international stomach. à G/F Iconsiam, 299 Charoennakhon More than 800 works of art call the
artists.à 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, Bangkok. Soi 5, Klong San, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 495 7000. Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)
BACC
+66 (0)2 214 6630. en.bacc.or.th. www.iconsiam.com. home. The museum displays paintings
and installations by local artists
The Artist’s House depicting mostly mythological or religious
(Baan Silapin) Buddhist themes. The museum itself
Situated on the Thonburi side of the river, is an architectural delight, its grounds
within a maze of canals, this restored snaking through glass and sliding doors
canal house is dedicated to the art of to a manicured garden out back. à 499
puppet performance, with shows at 2pm Kamphaengphet 6 Rd, Ladyao, Chatuchak, Bangkok.
Thursday to Tuesday. Apart from quirky, +66 (0)2 016 5666. www.mocabangkok.com.
hand-controlled dolls, the teakwood
house also features gorgeous handicrafts Thailand Creative and Design
and interesting sculptures. Center (TCDC)
à www.facebook.com/Baansilapin/. A dedicated entity for art, design and
the creative process, the five-storey
Silom Thai Cooking School TCDC has a wealth of resources within
This experience takes you to a traditional its walls, including a library that houses
market to shop for ingredients before about 50,000 design-related books,
whisking you back to a classroom for an an innovation centre that affords
immersive lesson that will impart the accessibility to a range of Thai-made
how-tos of making curry pastes, Tom Yum materials, and an exhibition hall.
soup, Thai fried rice and Pad Thai.à 68 à The Grand Postal Building, 1160 Charoenkrung
Silom Soi 13, Silom Rd, Bangrak, Bangkok. +66 Rd, Bangrak, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 105 7400.
Museum Siam
(0)8 4726 5669. www.bangkokthaicooking.com. web.tcdc.or.th/en/.
20 | Bangkok Art & Culture Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |21Bangkok hands-on experiences, including a glass-
Action & Adventure
bottomed boat, underwater tunnel and
shark diving. No experience is necessary
to go scuba diving with the sharks, though
if you’re a regular diver you will get a
Skip the spas for an adrenaline rush in sweet discount.à Sea Life Bangkok Ocean
Thailand’s bustling capital World, B1-B2 Fl, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd,
Pathumwan, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 687 2000.
www.sealifebangkok.com/en.
Discover the excitement of
Muay Thai FlowRider
Go indoor rockclimbing
Thailand’s national sport should be For the days when Bangkok’s heat and
the first thing on the list for adrenaline one- or two-day courses that will give you humidity become too much you can
junkies in Bangkok. Muay Thai fighters confidence in the cars and some serious always head inside for a thrill. Urban
use their elbows, knees, feet and shins in bragging rights on your return home. Playground has lots of climbing walls,
addition to their fists. If watching a match à www.takiracing.com. a bouldering cave and a 12-metre top
is enough thrill for you then head to either rope and lead climbing course. There
Rajadamnern or Lumpinee stadiums. Dive with sharks are more than 10,000 handholds in
There are also plenty of gyms offering Come face to face with the toothy grin of the gym and routes for climbers of all
Thai boxing training.à Rajadamnern Stadium, a shark in the middle of Bangkok. Sea levels. à Urban Playground, 8 Soi Sukhumvit
Rajadamnern Nok Rd, Pompab Satroo pai, Life Bangkok Ocean World is the largest 49, Klong Toey, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 119 7200.
Bangkok. rajadamnern.com. à Lumpinee Stadium, aquarium in South East Asia. They offer urbanplaygroundclimbing.com.
6 Ramintra Rd, Anusawaree, Bang Khen, Bangkok.
www.lumpineemuaythai.com.
Go wakeboarding
Taco Lake is Bangkok’s oldest cable
Indoor rockclimbing at Urban Playground
wakeboarding centre and welcomes
anyone with the urge to skate over the
surf. No matter your age or skill level, The result is an artificial wave that riders
Taco Lake will get you out on the water and can surf on. Wiping out is just as much
having a blast. Expect to get wet.à Taco fun as riding. à Flow House, A-Square 120/1
Lake, 175/1 KM 13, Bangna-Trad Rd, Bangphli Yai, Sukhumvit 26, Klong Tan, Klong Toey, Bangkok.
Bangphli, Samutprakarn. +66 (0)2 316 7809. +66 (0)2 108 5210. flowhousebangkok.com.
www.tacolake.com.
Drive a Formula One car
Try indoor surfing Dream of zooming around the track like
Bangkok’s on-water action continues at Daniel Ricciardo or Lewis Hamilton?
Flow House. The main attraction here is The city’s Taki Racing track lets people
the FlowRider – a water ride that runs a aged 16 and over get behind the wheel
Muay Thai
thin sheet of water quickly over a slope. of a Formula One race car. They offer
22 | Bangkok Action & Adventure Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |23Bangkok on your knots and stretching your limbs. in riotous markets and crowded malls.
Relax
à 2 Sanamchai Rd, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok. At Bangkok Float Center, you can find
+66 (0)2 226 0335. your Zen in a tank pod filled with a high
concentration of salt that causes you
Rasayana Retreat to float weightlessly. Studies show that
Rejuvenation is one of Thailand’s hallmarks as If you’re looking to combine a detox hour-long floats lower stress-causing
a destination. Enter the Zen zone at Bangkok’s temples holiday with an introduction to raw food cortisol levels and elevate happiness-
beyond piles of salad leaves, consider inducing dopamine and endorphins.
to health and wellbeing going to Rasayana Retreat, a wellness à Show DC Entertainment Mall, 99/6-9 Rama
centre that advocates natural detox by IX Rd, Bangkok. +66 (0)98 628 9599. www.
combining colon hydrotherapy treatments bangkokfloatcenter.com.
and herbal massages with organic,
uncooked food. At this retreat, you’re Wat Mahathat
encouraged to discover true health with One of Bangkok’s oldest temples is also
food that makes you feel energised and the centre for Vipassana meditation
alive. The centre also has a raw food café in the city. Traditional silent, seated
where you can order fresh juices, soups sessions are practiced, with a focus on
and vegetarian dishes.à 57 Soi Prom-mitr, breathing and the realisation that all
Sukhumvit Soi 39, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 662 4803. beings are ephemeral. The daily one-hour
www.rasayanaretreat.com. guided meditation sessions are a perfect
place for beginners to start, although
Bangkok Float Center longer periods of study, which include
Float tanks are nothing new, but they’re accommodation and food, can also be
probably the best way to claim much- arranged by the centre. à 3 Maharat Rd,
Panpuri Wellness
needed peace and quiet after days spent Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Bangkok.
Thai massage meets Soi 55, Klong Tan Nua, Wattana, Bangkok. +66 Yoga Elements
Japanese onsen (0)2042 8045. letsrelaxspa.com/bangkok/. Though it’s located slap bang in the
Some Bangkok spas offer Japanese middle of the capital, Yoga Elements is
onsen facilities. The plush Panpuri Wat Po Traditional Thai the ideal space for clearing your over-
Wellness offers pampering massages Massage School stimulated mind and sweating and
and wellness programs as well as It doesn’t get much more authentic than stretching it out for at least an hour. At
segregated onsen baths. Let’s Relax a massage at the Wat Po Traditional this studio, hailed as one of the best yoga
Spa & Onsen features mineral bath tubs, Thai Massage School. The venerable studios in the world, there’s a class for
sauna, steam, warm and cold room, temple is also the headquarters for the every level of flexibility or focus. Beginners
and an extended menu of massage teaching and preservation of traditional can start with the Elements class, which
and spa treatments. à Panpuri Wellness, Thai medicine. Treatments here are focuses on the fundamentals, while
12th Fl, Gaysorn Village, 999 Ploenchit Rd, performed in a large communal space advanced students can join the Flow
Lumpini, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 253 8899. www. lined with mattresses on the floor (no and Bliss Vinyasa classes. à 7th Fl, 185
panpuriwellness.com. à Let’s Relax Spa & Onsen, partitions). You forget the lack of privacy Dhammalert Building, Sukhumvit Rd, Bangkok.
Yoga Elements
5th Fl, Grande Center Point Hotel, 300 Sukhumvit once the trained masseurs start working +66 (0)2 255 9552. www.yogaelements.com.
24 | Bangkok Relax Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |25Events calendar Things to do
p28 p30
Phuket
Food & Drink Art & Culture
p34 p42
Action & Adventure Relax
p44 p46
Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |27Phuket this week. The motorcycle exhibition and Patong Carnival Nov 1-3
Events calendar 2019
custom bike show attract big crowds. This three-day festival celebrates the
beginning of the high tourist season, and
Songkran Festival Apr 13-15 20,000 visitors flock to Patong to enjoy
Ring in Thai New Year with an epic street entertainment and sporting events.
Time your trip to Thailand’s beach paradise for thrilling water fight, particularly in Bangla Road.
festivals and events and make the most of your visit Loy Krathong Nov 11
Phuket Pride Festival Lotus-shaped rafts decorated with
Apr 27-29 candles, incense and flowers are
One of the best queer festivals in Asia has released onto rivers and lakes.
floats, outrageous outfits and plenty of
out-and-proud queer people and allies. Laguna Phuket Triathlon
Nov 23-24
Laguna Phuket Marathon Asia’s longest running triathlon event
Jun 8-9 brings hardy competitors to the Laguna
Fitness enthusiasts can sign up to run Phuket resort each year.
the marathon, half marathon, 10k or
5k. There is also a relay version of the Phuket King’s Cup Regatta
marathon, so you don’t have to run the Dec
whole thing yourself. Asia’s biggest sailing race includes
more than 90 boats and 2,000 sailors.
Cape Panwa Hotel Phuket
Raceweek Jul 17-21 New Year’s Eve Dec 31
Phuket King’s Cup Regatta
There are four days of world-class yacht Revellers gather everywhere from bars to
racing – and four nights of beachside plazas to party and ring in the new year.
parties at Cape Panwa Hotel.
Wat Chalong Fair Feb 4-10 The Bay Regatta Feb 13-17
This seven-day festival celebrates Wat About 50 yachts sail around Koh Yao and Kathu Cultural Street
Chalong, Phuket’s largest and most down the Krabi coastline to Laem Nang, Festival Jul 19-21
visited temple. There are performances then to Chalong Bay for a huge party. Celebrate traditional Chinese culture with
and games in the streets, singers and Chinese-influenced food, lion dances,
puppeteers, and plenty of food. Thao Thepkasattri-Thao Sri martial arts, street stalls and parades.
Suntorn Festival Mar 13-15
Chinese New Year and Phuket This festival commemorates the victory Vegetarian Festival
Old Town Festival Feb 10-12 of the people of Phuket, led by two local Sep 29-Oct 7
About a third of Phuket’s population women, over the Burmese army. The Over the nine days, ethnic Chinese
has Chinese roots, so Chinese New highlight is a big open-air re-enactment. people abstain from meat, alcohol and
Year celebrations are very special here. other things in order to purify themselves.
Festivities include dragon processions Phuket Bike Week Apr 12-20 On the last day men carry altars of
and fireworks, and make sure you wear More than 50,000 visitors and 10,000 the Nine Gods in a procession,
Vegetarian Festival
red for luck in the new year. motorbikes descend on Phuket during accompanied by fireworks.
28 | Phuket Events calendar Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |29Phuket
Things to Do
Make the most of your time on Thailand’s largest
island with our guide to the best things to see and do
in this slice of heaven
Phuket Elephant Sanctuary
At this safe haven and “retirement home”
for elephants, they believe that people are
not meant to work the gentle giants nearly
to death, parade them in city streets or
even ride on their backs. Visitors to the
sanctuary are instead invited to feed,
Bangtao Beach
scrub down and bathe or just generally
chill with a handful of injured, aged and
traumatised elephants rescued from all deserve a mention – but Bangtao high marble Buddha statue can be seen
logging camps and circus-like attractions. Beach is the pick for many in the know. from just about anywhere in the south
This is one of the most ethical ways to An 8km-long stretch of soft white sand of the island. But climb up the hill in
Big Buddha
see elephants up close in Phuket. No trick lapped by crystal clear water, Bangtao Karon and you’ll be treated not only to
shows, no tourist rides – just elephants Beach is home to some of Phuket’s best- an impressive close-up of the colossal
being elephants. You can book for a Islands of Phang Nga Bay regarded restaurants and resorts. religious icon but also stunning views of
morning, afternoon or full-day experience. Jump aboard a speed boat and take a the mountains and Andaman sea.à Karon,
à www.phuketelephantsanctuary.org. day trip (or two) out to explore some of Bangla Road Amphoe Mueang Phuket, Phuket. +66 (0)81 891
the hundreds of tiny paradise islands. Running from the beach to the centre of 3827. www.phuket-big-buddha.com.
Dozens of tour operators offer many Patong is Bangla Road, the notorious
different day trips out from Phuket. 400-metre strip that’s the beating heart Wat Chalong
If you’ve only got one day, head out of Phuket nightlife. You’ll pass everything The most important and largest Buddhist
on a Phang Nga Bay/James Bond Island from beer bars and live music spots (Red temple on Phuket is a grand pagoda
trip, which takes you to the jaw-dropping Hot, Rock City) to enormous nightclubs housing a splinter of bone from Lord
limestone cliffs jutting out of the sea that (Illuzion, Tiger Disco). You probably won’t Buddha himself. The beautiful buildings
were made famous by the 007 movie have a civilised night out here; but come and grounds of Wat Chalong are the
The Man with the Golden Gun, plus with the right attitude and you’ll definitely perfect place to take a break from the
a few other small islands. have a great time. beach. It’s always bristling with local
worshippers and curious tourists and
Bangtao Beach Big Buddha it can get really crowded here, so make
There are dozens of beautiful beaches You can’t go to Phuket and miss the Big an effort to time your visit for as early in
Phuket Elephant Sanctuary
on Phuket – Mai Khao, Kata and Karon Buddha. Quite literally, as the 45-metre the day as you can if you want time and
30 | Phuket Things to Do Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |31space to take it all in – or get that perfect Promthep Cape
photo for the ’gram. Remember: this is You can’t really visit Phuket and not make
a sacred site, so make sure you cover your way up the viewpoint on Promthep
up.à Chao Fah Tawan Tok Rd, Chalong, Amphoe Cape for at least one sunset. The most
Mueang Phuket, Phuket. +66 (0)76 381 226. southerly point of Phuket is where you
www.wat-chalong-phuket.co. can breathe in the most awe-inspiring
views on the island. It can get incredibly
Monkey Hill busy, but the views more than make up for
Forget the tourist-packed, more famous the constant stream of camera-clicking
Monkey Beach and take a walk from tourists that arrive in the adjacent car park
Phuket Town up Toh Sae Hill for a close every evening. At nightfall, grab a table at
encounter with our furry cousins. the nearby Promthep Cape restaurant for
Head up the hill and you’ll soon meet a serene sundowner meal.à Rawai, Amphoe
macaques looking for food. Bring some Mueang Phuket, Phuket.
nuts or fruit along and you’ll make
plenty of friends. But remember, these Phuket Old Town
aren’t tame monkeys, so don’t get too The picturesque historical quarter of
intimate. And if it’s raining, don’t bother Phuket Town is where you’ll find beautiful
– monkeys dislike the rain just as much old buildings, museums, boutique shops
as we do. A viewing platform near the top and a thriving night market. A world away
of the hill affords good views of Phuket from the tourist-packed beaches and
Town. à Soi Muensri, Ratsada, Amphoe Mueang night-time hedonism elsewhere in Phuket,
Phuket, Phuket. this antiquated area of town is steeped
in heritage and small enough to explore
Bang Pae Waterfall, Khao on foot. There’s a strong old colonial
Phra Thaeo National Park Chinese and Portuguese influence here,
Wat Chalong
Phuket’s largest waterfall attracts plenty especially along the particularly charming
of locals and tourists alike throughout the Soi Rommannee.
year. This small but beautiful and tranquil
waterfall is surrounded by dense tropical Gibbon Rehabilitation Project
jungle in Khao Phra Thaeo National Park Set within the the island’s Khao Phra
on Phuket’s sparsely populated eastern Thaeo National Park, this project rescues
side. It’s best visited in the wet season, and rehabilitates white-handed gibbons,
when the rock pools are full enough to slow lorises and dusky langurs that
take a dip in and the lush jungle is at its have been been illegally kept as pets or
verdant best. There’s a couple of good traumatised by the photo-prop tourist
local restaurants nearby for when you get trade. As much as possible, the animals
hungry, but make sure you bring decent are reintroduced back into their natural
shoes and plenty of mozzie spray – and habitat after a long healing process.
the 200 baht entrance fee to the park. à 104/3 Moo 3 Paklock, Thalang, Bangkok.
Bang Pae Waterfall White-handed gibbon
à Thep Krasatti, Thalang, Phuket. +66 (0)7 626 0492. www.gibbonproject.org.
32 | Phuket Things to Do Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |33Phuket 3 Tu Kab Khao
Food & Drink
Tu Kab Kao is packed most evenings
thanks to its local reputation for serving
cocktails made with the freshest local
fruits and nearly 100 menu items of
Savour the extra-hot curries and chilli-inflected dishes authentic Phuket fare. Interesting
of Southern Thai cuisine in between sunbathing options include a zingy crab curry, a
spiced pork belly stew and a fragrant
sessions and pool time shrimp paste with fresh vegetables.
Raya
à 8 Phang Nga Rd, Phuket Town. +66 (0)76 608
888. www.facebook.com/tukabkhao/.
Phuket Old Town goodness. Equally impressive is the
Work up an appetite by walking the 4 Ko Benz Tumis curry, a traditional, rarely found
Mai historic streets and lively alleys This is a modest local joint with a limited Peranakan curry made with fresh okra.
Khao menu (only seven dishes) and looks that à 93 Dibuk Rd, Phuket Town. +66 (0)76 530 199.
you can’t fawn over. However, the food
1 Blue Elephant Phuket is fresh, the cooking is honest and the 6 Thalang Road
Housed in a historic Chinese colonial- prices are keen. A battalion of customers Come for the shopping, stay for the food
Nai Yang
style mansion, this restaurant offers drops in each night for signature dishes – and the ambience. Hip shops and batik
oriental spice and bold sophistication. Khao Lao Lued Moo (pork intestines boutiques line Phuket Town’s vibrant
Naithon Try next-level dishes like the massaman and pork blood soup) and Khao Tom main avenue, alongside cosy cafés,
lamb curry and lime sea bass topped with Haeng (brothless porridge with crispy small restaurants and casual bars.
lemongrass and chilli. Recreate them in pork bits and pork entrails), both cooked For a quick snack, try the roti with curry
Bang Tao your own kitchen by enrolling in a class according to old family recipes.à 163 at Abdul’s Roti or sample traditional
at the restaurant’s very own cooking Patiphat Rd, Phuket Town. Nyonya fare at Kopitiam by Wilai. Further
school.à 96 Krabi Rd, Phuket Town. +66 (0)76 down the stretch, you have cake shops
Phuket 354 355. www.blueelephant.com/phuket/. 5 The Charm
The Charm’s culinary underpinning
and the renowned café that’s called
Since 1892. à Thalang Rd, Phuket Town.
Laem Hin
2 Raya is Thai-Peranakan cuisine, a mix of
This family-run restaurant has been Chinese, Malay and local flavours. The 7 Lock Tien
popular with locals and visitors for nearly Penang-style fish curry is a bowl of spicy On the corner of Yaowarat and Dibuk
Patong 20 years. Properly honest home cooking Roads, right in the centre of Phuket
Phuket
Old Town served in generous portions dominates, Town’s dazzling Sino-Portuguese
and a successful formula of seafood, architecture, you will find Lock Tien, an
Chalong curries and spiced meats presented in open-air courtyard market packed with
a fuss-free manner has held its appeal local food vendors. Whooshing woks
Kata &
Karon over the years. Dishes like crab meat and bubbling pots dole out Phuket street
with curry and coconut milk and stewed food staples such as Hokkien-style
pork belly hit the spot.à 48 Dibuk Rd, Phuket fried noodles garnished with a fried egg,
Rawai
Town. +66 (0)76 218 155. and spicy noodle soup with shrimp.
Blue Elephant Phuket
à Cnr Yaowarat Rd & Dibuk Rd, Phuket Town.
34 | Phuket Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |35beetroot-cured salmon and lamb shank
Patong massaman. à 182 Koktanode Rd, Kata Beach.
Sumptuous meals are accompanied +66 (0)76 330 015. www.boathouse-phuket.com.
by amazing bay views and the
hypnotic lull of the rolling waves 17 Mom Tri’s Kitchen
Part gallery, part diner, Mom Tri’s
Kitchen has a menu taking inspiration
8 Acqua from both European and Southern Thai
This flashy dining room showcases chef cuisine. Ravioli with Phuket lobster is a
Alessandro Frau’s vision of elevated highlight. à Villa Royale Phuket Resort and Spa,
Acqua Mom’s Tri Kitchen
Italian fare, with confident staples such 12 Kata Noi Rd, Kata Noi Beach. +66 (0)76 333
as woodfired pizza and yellow fin tuna 568. momtriphuket.com/momtris-kitchen.
carpaccio. à 324/15 Prabaramee Rd, Kalim Prabaramee Rd, Patong. +66 (0)63 078 5887.
Bay, Patong. +66 (0)76 618 127. www.baanrimpa.com/seaside-restaurant. Kata & Karon 18 Kampong Kata Hill
www.acquarestaurantphuket.com. Find upscale beachside dining and Decked out with dragons, sea serpents,
11 Kaab Gluay unusual interiors religious icons and red Chinese lanterns,
9 Baan Rim Pa Patong This affordable eatery offers a heartfelt this restaurant is impressive to look at,
Expertly prepared renditions of Royal welcome. Staples such as Pad Thai, Tom and the menu covers the gamut of Thai
Thai cuisine is one reason to visit; Yum Goong (spicy soup with shrimp), 14 Kata Rocks staples.à 4 Karon Rd, Kata Beach. +66 (0)7
magnificent views overlooking Patong stir fries and curries are lightly spiced This striking waterfront restaurant is set 633 0103. www.facebook.com/kampongkatahill.
Bay is another.à 223 Prabaramee Rd, Patong. to appease western palates.à 58/3 within the ultra-luxe Kata Rocks resort.
+66 (0)93 584 5563. www.baanrimpa.com. Prabaramee Rd, Patong. +66 (0)81 787 7830. Fuss-free seafood fare like steamed sea 19 Sabai Corner
bass and grilled lobster are highlights The food is as authentic as the smiles
10 Joe’s Downstairs 12 Pan Yaah Thai and there are hearty dishes of lamb and of the waitstaff at this secluded spot
Located right underneath Baan Rim Pa, Beautiful views of Patong Bay are Wagyu steak.à 186/22 Kok Tanode Rd, Kata bounded by the jungle and the sea.
Joe’s Downstairs appeals to lethargic the backdrop to niftily executed Thai- Beach. +66 (0)76 370 777. www.katarocks.com. Enjoy flavour-rich curries, smoky rice
holiday makers with all-white tropical influenced seafood dishes such as Hor and noodle dishes and woodfired pizza.
furniture, views, small tapas-style plates Mok Kanom Kro (fish baked in clay pot) 15 Red Duck à Soi Laem Mum Nai 2, Kata Noi Beach.
and modern continental fare.à 223/3 and Goong Ob Woonsen (rice vermicelli The food here is more cafeteria than +66 (0)89 875 5525.
and prawn casserole).à 249 Prabaramee cuisine, but this cosy eatery has carved
Rd, Patong. +66 (0)76 290 450. out a niche of its own for Thai classics
cooked to perfection from the freshest
13 Banzaan Fresh Market locally sourced ingredients.à 88/3
The main floor of this two-storey market Khoktanod Rd, Kata Beach. +66 (0)84 850 2929.
is dedicated to fresh meats and seafood www.facebook.com/redduckrestaurant.
(lobsters are the cheapest in town),
flowers and fresh produce. Choose your 16 The Boathouse
preferred lunch, and it will be weighed, A large open-air restaurant on the edge
wrapped and packed for you to take to of Kata Beach, the Boathouse features
the upstairs restaurant for cooking. modern Pan-Asian dishes with a strong
Baan Rim Pa Patong Kata Rocks
à 181 Rat-U-Thit 200 Pee Rd, Patong. Southern Thai inflection, including
36 | Phuket Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |3722 Kan Eang@Pier scrumptious fare amid an expanse of
Rawai & Chalong This spacious waterfront restaurant Laem Hin tropical sea. Four moored restaurants
Eat seafood straight from the has friendly service and seafood pulled Let the seafood marathon begin – Kruvit Raft, Bang Mud, Kru Suwit and
source, or in striking settings straight off the boat. It draws diners with Black Crab – float side-by-side on the
bordered on all sides by nature pocket-friendly prices and seafood grilled water, a five-minute longtail boat ride
using coconut husks instead of the usual 25 Laem Hin Seafood from Laem Hin Beach. As expected
charcoal. à 44/1 Moo 5, Wiset Rd, Chalong. Restaurant seafood features strongly, and each
+66 (0)83 173 1187. www.kaneang-pier.com. Cheap, spankingly fresh underwater restaurant touts its own signature
bounty earns raves at this simple seaside dishes: Yum Goong Siap, a salad
23 Mor Mu Dong eatery. Have your fill of Southern Thai made with smoked, dried shrimp, is a
This rustic, out-of-the-way restaurant seafood fare like Koong Pad Ped Sator must at Kruvit Raft; steamed mantis
serves Thai food that is made with care (stir-fried red curry with prawns and stink shrimps and horseshoe crab eggs
but no affectation, and seasoned for beans) and Pla Pad Cha (spicy fish in thai are delicacies served at Kru Suwit;
those who love their chillies and spices. herbs). à 90/11 Moo 7, Soi Baan Leam Hin, steamed squid with lemon keep diners
Dishes include sea bass in plum sauce or Thepkrasattri Rd, Koh Kaew. +66 (0)76 373 349. coming back for more at Bang Mud, not
stir-fried prawns in lime.à 9/4 Thanon Chao to mention a Halal Thai accreditation;
Fah Tawan Tok, Chalong. +66 (0)88 766 1634. 26 Floating restaurants and soft-shell crab served with Chilean
The effort needed to get to these chardonnay are the more elevated
Rock Salt 24 Rock Salt seafood restaurants is well repaid by options at Black Crab. All this, plus a
In a stunning beachside setting in the breezy, atmospheric setting and warm
20 Rawai Seafood Market Nai Harn resort, Rock Salt has a menu service, make for a dining experience
Seafood can be pricey in Phuket, but not created by chef de cuisine David Attwater that’s hard to forget. àTake the boat from
at this locals’ haunt at the fishermen’s combining Southern Thai dishes with Laem Hin Pier.
village of Rawai, also known as the Sea contemporary European cuisine.
Gypsies Fish Market. Choose what you Expect to find daily-caught fish and 27 Koko
want from tropical fish, giant prawns, Fine de Claire oysters freshly delivered A fresh take on Japanese cuisine,
lobsters and live crabs, and then head to from France.à The Nai Harn, 23/3 Moo 1, Viset this progressive spot impresses
one of the restaurants across the street Rd, Nai Harn, Rawai. +66 (0)7 638 0200. gastrophiles with exciting regional
to have it cooked. à Wiset Rd, Rawai Beach. www.thenaiharn.com/dining/rock-salt. cooking served with a flourish. Dishes
like Akami tuna tartare with feta
21 Baan Noy cheese, capers and mint and Victoria
Thai classics and a smattering of lamb tenderloin with Saikyo miso and
European staples are cooked to gorgonzola take honest pleasure in
perfection at this little tucked-away what a handful of premium ingredients
restaurant. The owners, a Thai woman can accomplish, and don’t take
and a German gent, are lovely, and Baan for granted time-honoured cooking
Noy is an experience that leaves you with techniques. à The Village Coconut Island
a belly bursting with food and a heart (a free water taxi leaves from Laem Hin Pier in
full of warmth. à 58/12, Moo 10, Patak Rd, Phuket to the Village Coconut Island every 30
Chalong. +66 82 802 0162. minutes). +66 (0)81 326 2703. thevillage-
Rawai Seafood Market Koko
www.baannoyrestaurant.com. coconutisland.com/dining/#koko.
38 | Phuket Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |3930 Sea Almond Chilled
Restaurant and Bar Bang Tao & Naithon
Sea Almond is right on Nai Yang Beach, Get mind-blowing cuisine in the
where the water almost laps at the tables. most prestigious part of the island
The menu ranges from fish grilled in the
traditional southern Thai way to sweet
steamed crustaceans swimming in tasty 33 Pru
curry.à 90/10 Moo 5, Nai Yang Beach Rd, Nai Prepare to dine on an elevated plane at
Yang, Sakhu, Thalang. +66 (0)86 398 2005. this one Michelin-starred destination
(the only restaurant in Phuket to receive
31 Kin Dee such as accolade). Chef Jim Ophorst’s
Ruen Thai
Black Ginger
Nestled in a magical setting atop dishes rely on premium local produce.
mangrove swamps, this is one of the Thai crabmeat omelette is made with +66 (0)76 324 333. www.aman.com/resorts/
island’s destination eateries. The menu eggs from chickens that cluck about the amanpuri/nama-restaurant.
Nai Yang & Mai Khao is a love letter to Southern Thai cuisine, resort grounds, and vegetables, herbs,
Here’s where every meal comes prepared by a former five-star-hotel and edible flowers are picked from 35 Siam Supper Club
with a gorgeous view chef.à Hin Look Diew Village, Mai Khao. their in-house farm.à Trisara, 60/1 Moo 6, Simple yet appetising classic American
+66 76 328 293. www.kindeerestaurant.com. Srisoonthorn Rd, Cherngtalay. +66 (0)76 310 100. fare, including exquisitely tender steaks
prurestaurant.com. and a highly praised cheesecake, makes
28 Black Ginger 32 Sala Phuket this busy spot on a Lagoon Road a local
The restaurant stands on stilts in the This open-air restaurant by the beach treasure. à 36-40 Lagoon Rd, Cherngtalay.
middle of a lagoon, accessible only by and under the shade of the casuarina +66 (0)76 270 936. www.siamsupperclub.com.
water raft. It’s a romantic setting for trees offers magnificent views of Mai
Panang curry and Pak Miang (stir-fried Khao Beach and the sunset. Produce 36 Ruen Thai
miang leaves) paired with a chilled white is sourced every morning from the The full spectrum of Royal Thai cuisine,
or a full-bodied red from the restaurant’s fishermen to create pan-Asian dishes. including spicy salads, satays and grilled
sizeable wine selection. àThe Slate Phuket, à Sala Phuket Resort and Spa, 333 Moo 3, Mai meats, is judiciously served at Dusit
116 Moo 1, Nai Yang. +66 (0)76 327 006. Khao. +66 (0)76 338 888. www.salahospitality. Thani Laguna Phuket’s jewel restaurant.
www.theslatephuket.com/en/black-ginger. com/phuket/en/phuket-wine-and-dine. à Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket, 390 Srisoontorn,
Cherngtalay. +66 (0)80 385 9062. www.dusit.com/
29 La Sala dusitthani/lagunaphuket/dining/ruen-thai/.
Pru
Few places in Mai Khao do breakfast,
lunch and dinner, but this all-day 37 Suay Cherngtalay
restaurant at Anantara Mai Khao Phuket 34 Nama Expect inventive dishes for seafood
does. Breakfast is a serene affair with In a secluded cove of Pansea Beach, lovers at this respected restaurant. Main
international buffet choices. At night, dim Japanese chefs assiduously slice, plate courses such as tandoori chicken are
lights cast a romantic glow on delicately and create as if the fate of the island expertly cooked, and a side of luxurious
handled Italian and Thai fare.à Anantara depended on the freshness of their nigiri Thai-style foie gras bites with tamarind
Mai Khao Phuket Villas, 888 Moo 3, Mai Khao, and the grilled perfection of their Wagyu dip is ridiculously good. à Baan Wana Park,
Thalang. +66 (0)76 336 100. www.anantara.com/ sirloin served with moshio (seaweed 177/99 Moo 4, Srisuntorn. www.suayrestaurant.
en/mai-khao-phuket/restaurants/la-sala. salt).à Amanpuri, Pansea Beach, Cherngtalay. com/cherngtalay-branch.
40 | Phuket Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |41You can also read
