ACTION PLAN '19 DUTCH AGREEMENT ON SUSTAINABLE GARMENTS AND TEXTILE - SCHIJVENS CORPORATE FASHION
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ACTION
PLAN
‘19
DUTCH AGREEMENT ON
SUSTAINABLE GARMENTS
AND TEXTILE
SCHIJVENS CORPORATE FASHION
1
Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19 Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
ACTION
PLAN
‘19
DUTCH AGREEMENT ON
SUSTAINABLE GARMENTS
AND TEXTILE
SCHIJVENS CORPORATE FASHION
Content
Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
4. Introduction
5. About Schijvens
7. Purchasing Policy
8. Production Partners
There is no planet B. 10. The Risks
We have to take care 12. Action Plan
of the one we have. 12. Goals
14. People
- Richard Branson 25. Planet
34. The Circular
Concept
36. Stakeholders
42. Summary
1 SER works with calendar years, however our bookyear does not run parallel with a calendar year. If for example
objectives for 2019 are mentioned, it can be assumed we are talking about our bookyear 2019-2020.
3
Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
About Schijvens
Schijvens is a Dutch family business that has holds 80% of the shares. The other 20% are owned
been designing, manufacturing and distributing by Michiel Oosterhuis and his Turkish wife Pinar,
corporate clothing for over 150 years. Schijvens who provide for the day-to-day management.
has all the departments needed to supply a high- This factory employs approximately 50 people. As
quality production process, including a design a consequence Schijvens can continue switching
department, a quality department, a workshop, a fast, produce small quantities, perform fast
purchasing department, a sales department with deliveries, produce samples or fitting sets and this
office and field staff, a distribution centre of 5000 factory supplies a pool of information that we can
m2 and supporting staff departments. use to steer our other production locations, e.g.
wage minutes per product and patterns.
Schijvens has been around since 1863 and has The customers find the power of Schijvens in the
always been a producer of corporate clothing. full-service concept. Schijvens designs the clothing
A long history, ample experience. Until 2005, and won the Dutch Corporate Fashion Award
Schijvens was a real production company with 100 for its appealing designs on several occasions.
seamstresses in Hilvarenbeek. Nowadays, Schijvens Schijvens supervises the production at fixed
is a business with a head-to-tail construction and producers, with personal experience in this matter
outsources the production to low-wage countries. from the history and with an in-house quality
Introduction
control department, which is ISO9001 certified.
Apart from designing and producing customer- And Schijvens can keep the collection in stock for
specific corporate clothing, Schijvens also owns the customers and ship them to the establishments
the workwear brand T’riffic, an extensive and of the customer. To this end it disposes of properly
coordinated collection of trousers, overalls, polo equipped software systems, e.g. an EDI portal,
shirts, sweaters, t-shirts, jackets and thermaal customer specific web shops and a budget control
“We feel strongly about Corporate Social Living wage is one of our biggest action points. In
clothing, which is all deliverable from stock. system.
Responsibility. Our company and our 2017 we developed our living wage tool and since
production sites are affiliated with the Fair then all employees at our factory in Turkey have
In November 2015 Schijvens also set up a business The mission of Schijvens is to ensure that the
Wear Foundation, an organization that is received a living wage. This project was rewarded
in Dubai, at the Free Trade Zone JAFZA, to offer employees who wear its clothing feel good in their
with the Fair Wear Foundation Best Practice
dedicated to good working conditions. regional support to the customers in the Middle workwear, so that this radiates to their customers
Award. The tool is subsequently also rolled out to
We find it naturally: respect for people our other suppliers. Regarding the environment,
East. and provides reassurance to the buyers. Schijvens
and the environment and concern for does this by supplying a fashionable design, a
we are also taking big steps. In 2018 over 20% of
Since 2016 Schijvens has also had its own great fit and a good quality and by making the
the future” - Shirley Rijnsdorp-Schijvens our productions had already been circular. In
production factory in Mersin, Turkey, of which it products in a sustainable way.
Owner. addition, more than 100,000 pieces of old clothing
were collected from our customers, were new
Sustainability is part of Schijvens’ DNA. It is very yarns have been made from. We aim to become
important to us that our clothing is manufactured fully circular, which is a must if you consider that
under good working conditions and as our industry is the second most polluting industry.
environmentally friendly as possible. Apart from
the Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments Interested in reading all about our sustainable
and Textile, we are also affiliated with Fair Wear goals and achievements? Please continue and
Foundation, Bangladesh Accord and SAC, which enjoy!
helps us to monitor our production locations. All
factories are audited by an independent third
party after which, in association with the factory, Shirley Rijnsdorp-Schijvens Owner
work is carried out on creating a better working Jaap Rijnsdorp-Schijvens CEO
environment. We consider all of our suppliers as Jeske van Korven CSR
partners and our good long-term relationships are
highly valued.
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Hugo Schijvens Ltd (V.A.E.)
Purchasing Policy
IT, logistics, financial
Schijvens Corporate Fashion FZCO (V.A.E.)
CEO
Production&Sourcing
VP Procurement
The purchasing department consists of the With all these measures we try to in any case give
Shirley Schijvens BV
purchasing manager (CEO), project coordinator the factories sufficient time for our productions
(planning) and junior buyer / CSR. The purchasing and to properly monitor the production process
KNIP
manager is responsible for sourcing, innovation in order that interventions are, where required,
The structure of the organization
and handles new projects and requests. The possible in a timely fashion. The most important
Commercial Director
project coordinator is responsible for the planning sourcing criteria are; sustainability, quality and
Marketing/Sales
and is in daily contact with the factories. To keep workmanship, price and delivery time. Schijvens
an accurate focus on the planning a PLM system applies a manual for all our suppliers in which it is
1 Sales
is used. This is updated and discussed with all our mentioned how we believe a partnership should
support
suppliers twice a month. Delivery times can thus work. We believe in cooperation as partners. It is
2 staff Accounting
be monitored accurately and it is possible to very important to us that our suppliers share the
Accounting
intervene, where required, in a timely fashion. The same vision with regard to sustainability, otherwise
junior buyer / CSR is responsible for everything that cooperation is not possible. Our manual includes,
is related to sustainability and also handles small inter alia, FWF’s Code of Labour Practices, which
1 logistics teamleider
4 logistics staff
projects that are produced in the Netherlands. all suppliers signed. In addition, FWF’s Worker
Hugo Schijvens Ltd (V.A.E.)
trainees
IT, logistics, financial
Our joint goal is that our collections are produced Information Sheet is available to the employees
NAAIEN in the best possible conditions, for everyone at every factory in order that they are informed
within the supply chain. Internal measures that we of their rights and can, where required, contact
CEO
implement for this include, inter alia, the PLM and FWF’s complaint hotline. In addition, every supplier
moreover the generation of a monthly forecast for must be audited and it is also expected that they
Schijvens Confectiefabriek Hilvarenbeek BV
4 QC-staff
our clothing. This way we keep a close eye on the
MODEL continuously keep working on the improvement
Schijvens Onroerend Goed
stock levels and we can start new productions in of the working conditions at the factory. It is not a
H&S Schijvens Beheer
a timely fashion. In addition, we apply standard pass / fail system but an ‘on-going’ process. When
Production&Sourcing
2 stylists
delivery times, 3 months for European production it becomes apparent that one of our suppliers
and 5 months for the Far East, however always in is not willing to keep working on this or is not
TOF
2 procurement officers consultation with the factory of course. transparent about this then we are, unfortunately,
held to terminate the partnership. Of course this is
S
only done if we truly see no other solution anymore
and in consultation with the factory.
Shirley Schijvens BV
3 commercial staff
Commercial Director
2 sales
Marketing/Sales
NAAIMACHINE
NAAIMACHINE
Fac.services
1 Fac.service
80%
UFS Textiles Mersin
RITS
Productionstaff
Productionstaff
EN
2
Board
STIKK
32 staff
6 staff
Oosterhuis Beheer
20%
Accounting
1 staff
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ZOOM
Production Partners
Turkey
Portugal
39% China
1%
KNIP
23%
Schijvens has Long-term
relationship with its
NAAIEN partners
As indicated, we have long-term partnerships
MODEL Our standards
with our production locations. We cooperate All our partners work according to our manual
with approximately 10 partners, distributed over and AQL. They were set up in consultation with
the countries China, Pakistan, UAE, Bangladesh, Modint and Intertek (an international test agency)
Morocco, Turkey and Portugal. Every country and they provide an extensive description of
F
has its own specializations. For instance, in Turkey the standards that the producer must comply
STO
and Portugal we can produce small quantities with in terms of quality, delivery time, packaging,
with a fast delivery time. In China they work agreements and Code of Conduct.
well on technical products, e.g. waterproof all-
season jackets and fire-retardant clothing. In Annual supplier meeting
Sharjah we have an excellent costume factory. In Since the 150th anniversary of Schijvens in 2013
Pakistan the specialization can mostly be found a supplier meeting has been organized annually
in knitted products, polo shirts and sweaters, at where all our partners come together. The edition
very sharp prices. In Bangladesh and China we in 2018 took place in Karachi and was again a big
have a wonderful but also attractive factory in success. During this meeting everything is discussed
NAAIMACHINE
NAAIMACHINE
terms of price for shirts and trousers. In Morocco openly with each other, also including the points
Morocco Pakistan we produce knitted sweaters. Most of the
production takes place at our own factory in
for improvement that come to the fore during
audits and matters that factories run into. It is good
23%
Turkey and moreover in Pakistan where we have to see that our suppliers try to help each other and
1% our own production floor. Approximately 94% of look forward to this every year. The suppliers are
RITS
our production locations are situated in the risk
EN
also assessed on their performances in the course
countries. By performing a due diligence we try to of which an award can be won every year. Last
STIKK
Bangladesh
make the risks per country transparent and to limit year our Pakistani supplier won this award. This year
UAE
them in the best way possible. the meeting will take place in the Netherlands.
5% 8%
8 9
Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
Forced labour
Our factories have a policy against forced
labour. Thus far we did not experience this to be
a problem occurring at our factories, however
“We try to use recycled
unfortunately it does occur in the general clothing materials as much as
possible.”
industry. This is also checked during audits,
and also during off-site interviews, in order that
employees feel safe to discuss these matters.
Freedom of association and the right to the finishing of the fabrics, which uses hazardous
collective bargaining chemicals. We also conduct a due diligence
There are several countries where trade unions at production locations further ahead in the
are not allowed or are subject to restrictions, e.g. production chain in order to also obtain insight into
the United Arab Emirates, Turkey and China. What the risks at these kinds of locations and to also take
is in any case important to us is that a worker steps there. For instance, this year we started a
committee and a representative are active project from the SER in association with Arcadis at
at every factory. However, a problem that we one of our dyehouses to implement improvements
frequently encounter is that the said committee is there.
set up by the management whilst these members
should be elected by the employees. If this follows In addition, every 50th production that we have
The Risks
from one of our audits then we try to enter into produced at our factories is tested at random
relevant discussions with the factory and to have according to the REACH method. REACH is a
the elections take place again. Training from, for European regulation on the production of and
instance FWF, can assist in this matter. In addition, the trade in chemical substances. It describes
FWF’s Worker Information Sheet is available at all what businesses and official authorities must
our factories, which also includes the complaint comply with. REACH stands for: Registration,
Within our IMVO policy we focus on the 9 themes Child labour system with telephone number. If an employee Evaluation, Authorization and restriction of
from the Covenant where many risks can be We improve our factories following audits of FWF, at the factory cannot reach agreement with the chemical substances. This way we can verify
found. The most important social themes for us are however in our communication to customers it is worker committee then the complaint hotline of whether our productions comply with the specific
living wage, overtime and increasing the worker expressly mentioned that, if child labour would FWF can be contacted. standard from the European legislation.
awareness. A considerable environmental theme be detected during the audit, we immediately
for us is circularity, this is such an important theme discontinue with a factory. We believe that the Health and safety Raw materials
to us that we define this extensively in our policy facilitation of child labour is so wrong that we All our factories are audited by a local team of As already discussed, the generation of raw
and in our communication. feel that we cannot convince the management FWF, also including a health and safety specialist materials brings about many risks, for man, animal
intrinsically of ILO standards. Fortunately, child who thoroughly checks the safety at the factories. and the environment. We try to use recycled
Discrimination and gender labour has never been detected at our factories Think about the fire safety, the safety of the materials as much as possible in order that these
Unfortunately, discrimination within the clothing during an audit, however there is an increased risk building and whether training and inspections are risks are limited. Many processes for the generation
industry is a big problem, in particular in countries in countries like Turkey with many Syrian refugees carried out in a timely fashion. Due to the high of raw materials are exhaustible, emit hazardous
like Bangladesh, India and Pakistan where who often set to work without the correct papers. risks in Bangladesh we are also affiliated with the substances or are, for instance, produced in
women are often in a worse position compared As a consequence the risk of child labour of Bangladesh Accord, they specifically inspect and an animal unfriendly manner. We aim to be
to men. For instance, women are admitted to Syrian origin has increased. We monitor this in the monitor the safety of the building, electricity and completely circular in order that less water and
managerial positions less quickly and there is a best way possible at our production locations in fire safety. energy are required to produce our clothing.
risk of sexual intimidation in the workplace. This Turkey. In addition, we also monitor that younger
theme is very important to us, and is also part of employees and pregnant women at the factories
Water pollution and use of chemicals, Animal welfare
our audit programme. For instance, our factory work under good working conditions. They
water and energy We use almost no animal raw materials but the
in Bangladesh participates in a programme of must receive additional protection and can,
The clothing industry is the second most polluting small percentage (0.24%) that we do use, we want
FWF, which is aimed at the prevention of sexual for instance, not perform overtime. This is also
industry. The generation of the raw materials is to convert into animal and environmentally friendly
intimidation and the incorporation of an anti- checked during an audit.
usually an environmentally unfriendly process. Think alternatives in the year to come, e.g. biological
harassment committee. In addition, in 2018 Pinar,
about the considerable volume of water that is leather or synthetic leather and recycled wool. We
fellow director of UFS, won an award for her
required to cultivate cotton. The dyeing of the feel it is important that no animals suffer during the
commitment to women’s rights in Turkey.
fabrics, which again returns waste into nature, and production of our clothing.
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ZOOM Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19 Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
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ACTION PLAN
2019 2020 2021
Goals Planet Discrimunation and Round up FWF’s WEP and Research at key suppliers Increase (2-5%) the
implementation anti- into position of women in percentage of women in
Our most important goals are aimed at recycling Recycling is our biggest priority. In 2019 we Gender harassment commitee in managerial positions. managerial positions at
KNIP
and living wage. In this action plan it is outlined would like to move from 22% to 75% of recycled Bangladesh. three factories.
what goals were imposed for the coming years on productions by convincing more customers
the basis of various themes and risks. and by converting the T’riffic collection into Freedom of Training at factory in Social training in factories
Sharjah and introduction in China to increase worker
recycled materials. At our factories in Turkey and association and the worker representative. awareness.
People Pakistan recycled productions have already right to collective
been produced, we want to also expand this to bargaining Check possibilities unions in
The auditing and following up of corrective free trade zones.
actions is a continuous process that we work on, China and India. Tests are still being conducted
in association with the factory, throughout the with the recycled yarn, but in 2019 we expect to
Living wage Round up project and Roll out living wage project Implementation living wage
year. The biggest challenges can be found in also start the first recycled productions in these implementation living wage to Bangladesh. in Bangladesh and roll out
two countries. In addition, we are working on the in Pakistan. to a new factory.
the reduction of overtime, the increase of worker
awareness and the implementation of a living implementation of a software tool that measures
wage that we will work on further in the years to and renders the stock inventory, the return logistics
Health and safety Improve social conditions Due diligence further Key production locations
come. With regard to living wage our goal is to planning and the realized environmental result in the clothing factories by down the supply chain are audited (social and
compared to the Sustainable Development Goals following up all CAP’s. and investigate audit environment) and are
finalize the project in Pakistan this year and roll out
to the factory in Bangladesh. transparent.
NAAIEN possibilities. under monitoring.
Investigation audits on both
social and environmental
Finally, due diligence is conducted at production
standards.
locations further ahead in the chain, we will start
[Fair Trade Principles] MODEL
this in 2019 in order to ultimately also implement Raw materials Gain insight in trimmings Implement sustainable 100% circulair collections.
improvements there. and investigate sustainable trimmings.
alternatives.
From 75% to 90%
Complete tests recycled recycled collections.
fabrics in China and India.
F
First recycled collections in
STO
From 22% to 75% recycled China and Pakistan.
collections.
Convert our own T’riffic
brand to a circular
collection.
Implementation
softwaretool return logistics.
Water pollution and Investigation opportunities Conduction environmental Key production locations
environmental audits. audits at a number of key are audited (social and
use of chemicals, suppliers. environment) and are
NAAIMACHINE
NAAIMACHINE
water and energy Start project dyehouse. under monitoring.
Objectives are formulated
based on the results of the
pilots.
RITS
Animal welfare, water 0,24 % of our materials Convert all materials from No animal unfriendly raw
EN
come from animals. Start animals to animal-friendly meterials are applied.
and energy investigation animal-friendly alternatives.
STIKK
alternatives.
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Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19 Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
People
The improvement of the social conditions at the all our suppliers during our supplier meeting, in
factories is an ‘on-going’ process. All our factories order that we can also learn from each other. In
are by default audited again every three years. addition, we also cooperate as much as possible
We do this via local audit teams of FWF. Urgent with other companies that source from the same
issues are picked up immediately. Less urgent factories. This way the leverage at a facility is,
aspects are discussed and, in consultation with of course, increased because you are stronger
the factory, it is determined when it can be solved together. For all our efforts and performances we
Social
or implemented. Not a single factory is perfect, increased from 75 points to 86 points during the last
hence there is always room for improvement. In Brand Performance Check of FWF and we have
this Action Plan the most important findings and the leader status, which is the highest obtainable
conditions
actions points are provided. All on-going action category.
points are discussed regularly with the factory,
either by email or by telephone, during factory We aim for long-term relationships with our
visits and annually openly with all our suppliers
during our supplier meeting, in order that we
production locations and qualify them as partners.
Unfortunately, we had to bid farewell to two at the factories
can also learn from each other. In addition, we factories. In India where we were unable to reach
also cooperate as much as possible with other agreement despite many meetings because the There are many potential risks at clothing factories
companies that source from the same factories. factory does not want to work on better working with regard to, for instance, the safety, freedom
conditions. The other factory closed, due to policy of trade union and discrimination. By following
All on-going action points are discussed regularly from the Chinese government there are factories the corrective actions that are observed during
with the factory, either by email or by telephone, in China that must be relocated or closed on audits we try to, in association with the factory,
during factory visits and annually openly with account of environmental considerations. improve all these action points within the time
frame specified by FWF. In order to thus improve
the working conditions for the factory employees
who produce our collections. In this Action Plan
the most important actions per production country
are provided.
Goal
Improvement of the social conditions at the
factories by following corrective actions per
supplier.
Actions
Bimonthly update with supplier (by telephone and/
or by email), during factory visits and moreover
during the annual supplier meeting that will again
take place in August 2019 where this is discussed
openly with all suppliers. Moreover, scheduling of
timely follow-up audits to verify actions.
Deadline
Continuous process, FWF specifies the time limit per
corrective action.
Who
Jeske and the producers.
16 17
Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
The Risks
•
•
Excessive overtime and incorrect
payment of the overtime
Subcontracting
Pakistan The Risks
• Unequal rights for women
• Salaries under living wage
In 2018 a follow-up audit was conducted at • Limited freedom of
• Limited freedom of association MYM Knitwear. Ever since the factory has no
association
• Unfair or unlawful dismissals longer worked with temporary agreements and
the employees are entitled to a permanent • Salaries under living wage
• Unequal rights for Syrian
agreement. In addition, improvements were
refugees, child labour and implemented in the area of safety and a
unregistered employees CSR training took place that all people in the
workplace participate in. The objective of the
training was to inform people of their rights, which
was received very positively. The most important
action point is the finalization of the living wage
project. In 2018 we visited the factory several times
to meet about this. A benchmark was established
Turkey section ample overtime is performed in certain
periods. This is caused by the fact that we cannot
outsource this process due to a lack of machines
together with employees and the factory. The last
step is the calculation of the additional costs in
order that the living wage can also actually be
implemented. This also includes the manner that
and expertise at the subcontractor.
overtime is reimbursed.
At our own factory UFS almost all action points
are handled, this will be verified during the follow- Syrian refugees & unregistered employees
up audit in May of this year. In addition, we are
working with another factory when our production
line is full. This factory was audited by BSCI.
The arrival of Syrian refugees in Turkey results in an
increased risk of child labour. In addition, the risk
exists that people of Syrian origin work without a
work permit and do not have the same rights as The Risks
UAE
Overtime & Subcontracting Turkish employees. Syrians are also employed at • Excessive overtime Even if, from the Covenant, the United Arabic
A frequently occurring problem in Turkey is the factories that we work with. They have the
• Non legally binding agreements Emirates is a low-risk country, there are indeed
excessive overtime and the undeclared payment same rights as any other and are in possession of
risks that must be taken into account. This
of overtime in order to prevent high fees on the a work permit. This is often a long process, hence • Limited freedom of association
particularly regards the freedom of trade union,
national insurance contributions. Of course this has it may happen that an employee is still in the • No statutory minimum wage which represents a considerable problem.
an adverse effect on the employees when they process of obtaining a permit, however they are
established Geebee Garments, which makes clothing for us
are dismissed or retire. Since the implementation of always treated equally.
in Bangladesh, also has a production location
living wage in 2017 this has also been adjusted at in Sharjah where costumes are produced. This
our factory and everything is being paid correctly. Freedom of trade union & women’s rights factory was audited in 2018 and no corrective
Overtime does remain a problem at the factory Our factories are located in a Free Trade Zone actions came to the fore. We do still have a
but we worked hard on reducing this, including and a trade union is not active here. Instead, a goal with regard to freedom of association. We
through better planning, hiring additional people worker committee and an operational complaint would like to see the incorporation of a worker
and the possibility of outsourcing the production mechanism were set up. In 2018 Pinar, fellow committee but this is, unfortunately, prohibited by
to another facility when our production line is director of UFS, won an award for the work she law, hence we have now indicated that a worker
full. This factory does, for that matter, also fall performs for women’s rights in Turkey. She works representative would be a good alternative.
under our audit monitoring percentage of FWF. for women who experience sexual intimidation in We would like to implement this via training and
Our factory indicates that the overtime was on the workplace and for women who are in need of also inform the employees of their rights, the
average reduced from 15% to 10%, which falls additional assistance in caring for sick children. worker representative and FWF’s complaint line.
within the statutory standard of FWF. It is, however, According to the auditor the factory also complies
approximate, because it differs per employee. The most important area of attention in Turkey with the living wage benchmark, however we still
The follow-up audit that took place in May of this remains overtime. In addition, several corrective want to examine this in the longer term.
year must verify this. Meanwhile we are going to actions are outstanding at our subcontractor that
try to reduce the overtime at UFS even further. we are working on together with a number of
In particular at the embroidery and printing other clothing brands.
16 17Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19 Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
Bangladesh
In 2018 a follow-up audit was conducted at The most important action points still remain
Geebee Garments, with whom we collaborate worker awareness and the incorporation of a
in Bangladesh. All corrective actions are now properly operational anti-harassment committee.
followed up together with also other companies, Unfortunately this process is taking a lot of time,
that source from this facility. however our goal is to finalize this in 2019 in
association with FWF. The complaint system is
During our factory visit at the start of this year neither working optimally yet.
we went through all outstanding actions as well
as the living wage aspect and the increase In terms of the safety at the factory most of the
of the minimum wage, which has also been points were improved, however actions are still
implemented at the factory. In the autumn we outstanding in respect of the building safety, which
would like to roll out the living wage project to this must obviously be followed up as soon as possible.
factory. The management indicated to be positive This takes place under the supervision of the
The Risks
about this, hence hopefully we can start this soon. Bangladesh Accord, which follows and inspects
this. • Excessive overtime
• Limited transparency
• Salaries under living wage
China
The Risks • Limited freedom of association
• Bad fire and building safety
• Subcontracting
• Sexual intimidation against
women Due to decisions of the Chinese government there possibilities of providing training to the employees
are factories in China that must either relocate in order that they obtain more insight into their
• Excessive overtime
or close. To our knowledge this takes place for rights and try to make the worker committee more
• Salaries under living wage environmental motives and it is tried to place active.
• Limited freedom of factories together in a more centralized manner
in order to monitor them better or, if the standard Moreover, there are two other production
association
is truly not met, to even close them. Unfortunately, locations where only a small part of our production
one of our factories closed. The latter because is produced. We intend to discontinue with one of
relocation was not an option, because it was not the factories, we only represent a very small part of
possible to obtain new staff or to maintain present their total production as a result of which we have
employees. That is why we started looking for a very little leverage. This is particularly a problem
new production location in China, which was when following up on the social conditions at the
audited in May of this year. The other factories factory. Despite the fact that we cooperate with
remain, in any case for the time being, at the another company the total leverage is still very
present location. In total, we work with four small. Last year we provided a training together
different production locations in China. Foshan Ka with this other company, unfortunately, due to
Chun Garment is our most important supplier in limited cooperation of the management, only
China, with which we have already cooperated a small number of employees participate in the
for a long time. In July 2019 we have a repeat training, which is, of course, a shame. Our fourth
audit scheduled at this factory. Risks that we want production location must still be audited, this will
to have insight into include transparency because also be scheduled in 2019, after which we will work
during the previous audit there was question of a on the improvement of the corrective actions.
double bookkeeping. In addition, overtime and
freedom of association are a problem. We think
it is a good idea to after the audits examine the
20 19Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19 Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
Portugal
The most important risks are presently related always conduct a health and safety check, and we
to the minimum wage, which is often the same discuss these risks and the situation at our factory. In
for everyone, regardless of experience and addition, the production location is also held to post
responsibilities, and is rarely increased. In many FWF’s Worker Information Sheet at the factory and
instances this is not a living wage, which is to inform employees of their rights and FWF’s line.
one of the reasons that employees perform so
much overtime, which is often paid at a lower At the start of 2019 we visited the factory, which
compensation level than prescribed by law and had recently relocated, in order to check what
is often not registered. Another risk is related to the factory looks like and to conduct a health and
health and safety conditions. The economic crisis safety check-list and this was all in order. The biggest
incited employers to save on investments. That risk in Portugal is, in our opinion, excessive overtime
is why machines are rarely replaced and they due to fast deliveries. Our partner indicates that
become more dangerous to use. Also because overtime is exceptional and minimal.
The Risks training is not provided and external consultants
• Excessive overtime are not deployed to work on a risk assessment with
• Subcontracting to smaller the factory.
workshops
Our factory in Portugal, Ultra Creative, is visited by The Risks
• Salaries under minimum us, however not audited because Portugal falls
• Excessive overtime and incorrect
Morocco
and living wage under the low-risk countries. During a visit we do
payment of the overtime
• High percentage of
• Salaries under living wage
female employees without
• Unhealthy working conditions
agreement or social
Morocco has, as a production country, often more protection
risks than expected because it is relatively close. • Limited freedom of
However, there are indeed big risks, e.g. ample
association
overtime and subcontracting, due to fast delivery
times, unequal rights for women and limited • Unhealthy working
freedom of trade union. conditions
THA, our factory in Morocco, organized a training
to inform employees about FWF and the complaint
mechanism. Health and safety actions were
implemented and moreover the factory indicates
that contract employees are converted into
permanent employees after two years. All these
actions will be verified during a follow-up audit.
Overtime and subcontracting are not a risk at this
factory, but of course this is always checked during
every audit. Focus points remain as followed:
optimize worker committee and complaint
mechanism and stimulate women in managerial
positions.
20 23Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
Our living wage project in Turkey was finalized
in 2017, ever since all factory employees have
received a living wage. We won FWF’s Best
Practice Award for it in 2017. At the start of this
year this benchmark was calculated again and
adjusted. The latter due to the high increase of the
The determination of minimum wage.
the living wage This project was then rolled out to the factory
in Pakistan. In 2018 we visited this supplier twice
to meet, about this. During one of these visits
per product a questionnaire was also distributed to the
employees who work at our production floor.
They indicated what all their costs are, and in this
In the clothing industry employees are usually
respect the question was also asked what they
paid under the living wage, which is not sufficient
feel a living wage should be. These results were
to make a living. To yet make a living overtime
processed by The Sustainable Trade Initiative
is often performed, however we feel that the
(IDH) and a benchmark was determined in this
basic wage should be enough to make a living.
respect. Feedback was subsequently given to the
Schijvens wants to know whether its cost price
factory and now it needs to be calculated what
is enough to pay for a living wage. If yes, then
the additional cost will be to increase the salaries
Schijvens wants to know why the employees are
to the said living wage benchmark. In this respect
not paid a living wage. If not, then Schijvens wants
it goes without saying that the difference in work
to increase its cost price in order that the living
experience and expertise should be taken into
wage can be paid. If Schijvens does pay the living
account.
wage but it is not paid to the employee then
Schijvens will enter into discussions with the factory
This factory comprises 23% of our total production.
management to verify what the reason is and
Turkey covers 39% of our production, hence
what Schijvens can change about that together
when we have also implemented the living
with the factory.
wage in Pakistan. This year we expect to have a
demonstrable living wage at well over 60% of our
Goal production. Because we are an important player
Our factories comply with the living wage.
to the factory in Pakistan and also because this is
a family business that is intrinsically motivated to
Actions improve and to properly provide for its staff, we
Determine the living wage benchmark by means expect to be able to jointly realize this. Moreover,
of a questionnaire under factory employees and we are also trying to cooperate with another
moreover obtain insight into the wage minutes of player of the Covenant, which also sources from
our products, this is compared to the living wage, this factory. If this becomes a success then we will
in order that we can check per product whether again copy this to a subsequent producer from
the living wage is or is not included in our cost our “Value Circle”. We had the ambition to do this
price. If note, then we recalculate the cost price “This year we faster however the present experience teaches
and increase the price together with the customer. us that the factories still measure much too little to
The living wage project is on-going in Pakistan and expect to have truly obtain good insight into wage minutes and
is then rolled out in Bangladesh. cost prices, which are essential data. The next roll-
a demonstrable out will be at the factory in Bangladesh.
Deadline
Finalization of the living wage project in Pakistan living wage at well
and roll-out in Bangladesh at the autumn of 2019.
over 60% of our
Who
Jaap, Shirley, Jeske and the producers. production.”
24 23Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19 Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
Planet
Recycling Meanwhile we have, apart from the ECAP
Of course we want to produce our clothing in project, been working with RVO and the embas-
a manner that is as environmentally friendly as sies in Turkey, Pakistan and China on creating
possible and we aim to be fully circular. We are breakthroughs in the present legislation, which is
working hard to increase the recycled content in not set to circularity yet. We realize that we are a
our clothing. By recycling clothing we produce small player, however we are a trendsetter and
new recycled yarn, which we use for new pro- a disruptor who can open doors, can set exam-
ductions again. Because the footprint of recycled ples and make sure that in time the scalability of
yarn is considerably lower than traditional yarn. our projects can work internationally and can be
The waste dump is also reduced because we pick followed or improved by big players as a result of
up the worn clothing from our customers. We try which the environment will shortly no longer suffer
doing this by convincing customers to participate from our industry.
in our recycling process. We can then pick up the
clothing and shred or melt it at the recycling fac- Our goal is to move from 22% to 75% recycled
tory in Turkey. The yarn is distributed over the cloth collections in 2019. We will convince even more
producers who in turn can produce new cloth that customers to switch to recycled clothing and will
is used in new productions of Schijvens. moreover convert our T’riffic brand into recycled
materials. Our ultimate goal is to be fully circular in
In 2018 Schijvens delivered 22% of its total produc- 2021.
tion in its recycled yarn. In addition, it collected
almost 100,000 pieces of worn old clothing from its
customers. Twenty of our customers are wearing
recycled clothing. Schijvens also won the 2018
Corporate Fashion Award in the sustainability
category, with the CSU collection, that we are
very proud of. According to the Jury the picture
is complete with this collection and it shows that
CSR does not need to be boring at all. We have
an employee within Schijvens who is dedicated for
100% of this time to the circular process, this person
cooperates with our ISO coordinator who is also
responsible for the return logistics. In addition, we
hired two employees who sort and repack all the
old clothing in order that it can be transported to
the recycling factory.
26 25100%
circular
28 29Materials
We want to make the entire product as
sustainable as possible, both the raw materials,
The increase e.g. cotton and polyester, and the trimmings,
e.g. buttons and zippers. An overview of all
of recycled
materials used in our productions from 2018, with
alongside sustainable alternatives, is attached.
In 2019 we want to convert this as much as
content possible. We will gradually convert cotton and
polyester into recycled raw materials. At the
moment our factories in Turkey and Pakistan are
in our clothing producing recycled collections and tests are
being conducted in China and Pakistan. This year
we expect to start the first productions here. In
By recycling clothing we produce new recycled
2019 we want to grow from 22% to 75% recycled
yarn, which we use for new productions again.
collections. The latter by convincing customers,
Because the footprint of recycled yarn is
who are not using recycled clothing yet, and
considerably lower than traditional yarn. The waste
moreover by converting our own T’riffic brand to
dump is also reduced because we pick up the
recycled.
worn clothing from our customers.
We want to produce our clothing entirely
Goal circularly. That is why we also convert our present
Less environmental pollution by increasing trimmings to sustainable alternatives. Our styling
recycled content. has already continuously been seeking sustainable
trimmings or better solutions, but to handle this
Actions constructively we need more time. The database
We try to convince customers to participate in with present trimmings must still be made
our recycling process. We can then pick up the transparent.
clothing and shred or melt it at the recycling
factory in Turkey. The yarn is distributed over the In the coming two years we are going to invest
cloth producers who in turn can produce new more time in this in order to ultimately make the
cloth that is used in new productions of Schijvens. product completely sustainable.
Deadline
Finalize testing of recycling in China and India
Productions 2018 Goal 2019
and start first recycled productions in 2019. To
this end recycled yarn must be shipped in the Cotton conventional (36%) Cotton recycled (35%)
course of which it will become clear whether we Polyester conventional (35%) Polyester recycled (37%)
encounter any trade barriers. In addition, we are Cotton recycled (12%) Cotton conventional (12%)
working on the implementation of a software tool Polyester recycled (14%) Polyester conventional(14%)
that measures and renders the stock inventory, Acryl (0,4%) Polylana (0,4%)
the return logistics planning and the realized Leather (0,1%) Organic or synthetic leather (0,1%)
environmental result compared to the Sustainable PU (0,1%) Water-based PU (0,1%)
Development Goals. The goal is to increase the
PVC (0,5%) Sustainable Alternative (0,5%)
number of recycled productions from 22% to 75%;
Viscose / Rayon (0,2%) Lenzing Viscose (0,2%)
we will approach even more customers for this and
Wool (0,2%) Organic Wool (0,2%)
convince them to switch to a more sustainable
Elastane (0,4%) Mechanical stretch (0,4%)
collection.
Who
Shirley and Jaap.
30 29Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
Water, energy and
chemicals
“20 of our customers
It is generally known that the production of
have switched to circular clothing is environmentally unfriendly, it is even
the second most polluting industry. We are now
working on conducting more due diligence in
company clothing.” respect of the production locations further ahead
in the chain, e.g. dye houses, spinning mills and
cotton plantations. Only the sewing shops fall
under FWF, which focuses on the social conditions
of the factory. In the years to come we also want
to delve deeper into all other locations where
more environmental risks occur due to the fact
that processes can be detrimental to people,
animal and the environment. We therefore also
want to have more insight into this. And moreover,
by using recycled collections.
The increase of Meanwhile, 20 of our customers have switched to
sustainable
circular company clothing. This saves: 40% CO2
emission, 99% water and 40% energy.
trimmings in What is being saved?
our clothing
The trimmings, e.g. buttons and zippers, are also
40%
part of a garment. We want to define and analyse
what exactly we use in terms of trimmings and how
we can make them sustainable in order that the
entire product is produced in an environmentally
friendly manner.
Goal
Produce the product in a completely sustainable
99%
manner.
Actions
Create an overview of all existing trimmings
and process this in a database, find sustainable
alternatives and also use them in our collections.
Deadline
40%
2020.
Who
Jaap, styling and QC.
32 31Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
Production
Chain
Meanwhile we have insight into a total of 65
production locations. Apart from the CMT
factories, all fabric suppliers, as well as printing
and embroidery locations, are fully transparent.
In particular the raw material locations, e.g. the
cotton farmers, are hard to retrieve. In the year
to come we want to work on this further in order
that we hopefully obtain insight into all locations
that are part of the production of our clothing.
However, once our productions are fully recycled
it is no longer important to obtain insight into
Due diligence
locations like cotton plantations.
The next step is then to also conduct a due
in the entire
diligence at these locations. All data and
certificates were collected, however this year
we also want to have a number of important
production locations audited by a third party.
We have recently started a project at one of our
production chain
dyehouses in China, this will take the coming year.
We are working on the performance of a due
In addition, we want to, in any case, audit another
diligence at production locations further ahead in
important fabric supplier.
the chain, including fabric producers, spinning mills
and dyehouses. In order to ultimately also improve
Two of our fabric suppliers indicated that they
the environmental and social conditions at these
prefer not releasing their production location data.
production locations.
We made it clear that this is necessary for us and
we proposed to then join the IMVO Covenant.
These suppliers are in contact with the SER and Goal
Obtain insight into all production locations within
“Our ultimate
are considering whether they want to join this.
This way they do not need to communicate their our supply chain.
production locations to us, instead these locations
are supervised by the SER. goal is of course Actions
Obtain insight into all production locations. Collect
Our ultimate goal is of course to implement to implement existing audit reports and certificates. Have the
most important factories participate in the module
improvements in both the social and
environmental area throughout the entire
production chain, we will gradually pick this up.
improvements in of the Higg Index, and have audits conducted by
way of verification.
both the social Deadline
and environmental 2019-2020 financial year.
area.” Who
Jeske and Jaap.
34 35ZOOM Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19 ZOOM
The Circular Concept Something
to think
KNIP
about...
The textile industry is the 2nd most polluting industry in the
world. That is why Schijvens has already been working on
the development to make new clothing of old clothing
for quite some time. Schijvens does this by collecting
circular concept the clothing at the customer, recycle it and make new
clothing of it. The entire process of producing recycled
company clothing has considerable impact on the
NAAIEN environment. For instance, on average 99% water, 40%
energy and 40% CO2 emission are saved because no
new raw materials are required to produce new yarn
and because the clothing does not end up on a waste
dump or is incinerated.
MODEL
Hence there is a world to win, that is why our recycled
clothing is made of recycled yarn. The yarn is made
of 50% recycled textile and 50% recycled PET bottles.
F
Schijvens adds PET bottles because they make sure
STO
that the fabrics are strong enough and can properly be
washed.
Apart from the environmental impact there are also
numerous social issues in the textile industry that are
screaming for attention in the media, think about
messages about child labour, exploitation and unsafe
factory buildings. Schijvens has been affiliated with the
Fair Wear Foundation since 2010 and has attained the
Leader status, which means that its factories do very well
NAAIMACHINE
NAAIMACHINE
in this area. Our own factory in Turkey even obtained the
Best Practice Award of the Fair Wear Foundation in 2017
because a living wage is paid.
RITS
Schijvens has been producing company clothing
EN
for customers like Sligro, Hema, Kruidvat, Etos, Praxis,
STIKK
Gamma, Karwei, Intratuin, Qatar Airways, Blokker, Leen If you want to know more, then feel free
Bakker, Xenos, Strukton, TBI, CSU, Mise en Place, Engie, to go to https://www.schijvens.nl or watch
NS, Kwantum, Jacks Casino, Intertoys, Albert Heijn, Aldi, the video about the recycling process via
Stayokay and Makro for more than 150 years. https://vimeo.com/251290906.
34 37Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19 Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
Stakeholders Bangladesh Accord
Bangladesh Accord was incorporated in 2013
after the collapse of Rana Plaza in order to monitor
Organizations and improve the safety of clothing factories
in Bangladesh. This also includes our factory in
Bangladesh, which is a continuous process.
Schijvens is affiliated with several organizations and European Clothing Action Plan (ECAP)
initiatives in both the social and the environmental The focus of ECAP is to develop a pan-European
area that assist us in conducting due diligence. framework in which environmental and economic
Below, apart from the IMVO Covenant Sustainable advantages can be introduced in the clothing
Clothing and Textile, with which we have been industry by creating a circular approach
affiliated since the incorporation in 2016 and throughout Europe. Schijvens was the first pilot
obtained a score of 63 points, the most important to market a circular collection. The ECAP pilots
affiliates are mentioned. show that it is possible to make textile in a circular
manner as a result of which a sustainable future at
Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) the European level is within reach.
FWF works for good working conditions in the
clothing industry and is one of our most important Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) Better Buying Cirmar
affiliates. Our factories are audited by FWF after Higg Index is an initiate of SAC with which Schijvens This initiative aims at the assessment of buying Cirmar sets up, together with partners, a worldwide
which we then work on improvement of the is affiliated. Our suppliers are asked to annually performances in the course of which suppliers system for circular products, components and raw
work environment in association with the factory. enter their performances with regard to the assessed Schijvens. The relevant results were materials. They assist us in setting up a software tool
Because of our performances we are, as a environment and sustainability on the basis of a discussed with all suppliers during the annual to monitor our circular process.
business, ‘leading’ within FWF, which is the highest questionnaire. This way Schijvens obtains more supplier meeting. However, our suppliers had
category and we obtained a score of 86 points. insight into the CSR policy and the performances doubts about the outcome of it. We provided GRS certification
of factories. input about the manner that questions were Factories where our recycled yarn is produced
asked. Unfortunately, during the last round it was are GRS certified. Control Union audited this for an
also indicated that we are too small for this, hence order at our factory in Pakistan.
it is presently on hold.
MVO Nederland
ISO 14001 certification We are a member of MVO Nederland (‘CSR
The annual audits of SGS in respect of the ISO Netherlands’) and we provided a presentation
14001 certificate of Schijvens ensure that we with CSU during the MCO annual event about
regularly check our environmental aspect register circularity and working conditions which was re-
and verify this, where required, with our factories. ceived very well. In addition, we participate in a
survey from Agape about our CSR policy.
Remo
For the assessment of the 100% post-consumer
company clothing for Stayokay Schijvens relied on
the expertise of the independent research agen-
cy Remo. Remo has a database that analyses
the links of the recycling chain of Schijvens and
calculates how much post-consumer material a
product contains. The label that is issued by Remo
is attached to the piece of company clothing by
Schijvens and contains a QR code that takes the
customer to a website where all the information
about the links in the production chain can be
found.
38 37Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19 Action Plan Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile ‘19
Sponsoring
Apart from the sustainabilisation of the
clothing industry through corporate social and
environmental responsibility, Schijvens feels that it
is also important to make a contribution to society
by supporting charities. Meanwhile, Schijvens
has already been able to support the following
charities.
2018 Ronald McDonald McHappy day
KWF Kankerbestrijding
2017 De Voedselbank
2016 Warchild
2015 Masterpeace
In addition, Schijvens supports local initiatives
like Foundation Yayasan Jasinga, Beachbeek,
Elastiek Muziek, Football Association Hilvaria,
Carnival Association De Pezerikken and Harmonie
Willibrordus.
Communication Winner of Corporate Fashion Award
With the jury comment that the picture is truly
complete with the collection of CSU and that this
collection shows that CSR really does not need to
Sustainable Fashion Show be boring, we won the 2018 Corporate Fashion
During the sustainable fashion show ‘walk the Award together with CSU.
talk’, which took place in Hanoi in April of this
year, Schijvens could be seen with the sustainable CSR Events
collection of facilities business CSU. Schijvens As a business we are often invited to talk about
wants to show that much is possible in the textile our sustainable policy and the circular clothing
industry in the area of sustainability. The fashion that we produce. We hope to thus inspire others.
show was attended by Prime Minister Mark Rutte For instance, in Copenhagen we provided a
and the Vietnamese Minister with the objective of presentation to the City of Copenhagen and we
discussing, inter alia, violence and intimidation in were invited in Helsinki to provide a presentation
the workplace at clothing factories. at the World Circular Economy Forum In Helsinki in
June.
FWF’s Best Practice Award
In 2018 FWF’s Best Practice video was launched. Schijvens in the news
This centres on our living wage project in Turkey for In 2018 we were frequently in the news, inter
which we won the Best Practice Award. Curious also with the NOS News about the Covenant
how this process took place and how the factory Sustainable Clothing and Textile, and moreover in
employees experienced this? Check out the video various newspaper articles, magazines and on the
on: https://www.schijvens.nl. radio to talk about our sustainable developments,
see pages 40 and 41).
40 39You can also read
