ACT ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS - Volker Schöffl, Dicki (Ludwig) Korb, Patrick Matros - Sozialstiftung Bamberg
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Volker Schöffl, Dicki (Ludwig) Korb, Patrick Matros
ACT
ADJUNCT
COMPENSATORY
TRAINING
FOR ROCK CLIMBERS
CLIMBERS’
COMPENSATION TRAINING
WITH A MEDICAL FOUNDATION
1
ACT ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS CLIMBERS’ COMPENSATION TRAINING WITH A MEDICAL FOUNDATION Volker Schöffl, Dicki (Ludwig) Korb, Patrick Matros
THE AUTHORS
DISCLAIMER
WARNING!! THIS BOOK DESCRIBES The Authors assume no liability
TRAINING TECHNIQUES FOR DAN- or responsibility of any type to any
GEROUS ACTIVITIES. BOTH THE AC- person or entity for errors con-
TIVITIES AND THE TRAINING TECH- tained herein, or for any special, in-
NIQUES DESCRIBED CAN CAUSE cidental, or consequential damage
SERIOUS INJURY AND/OR DEATH. caused or alleged to be caused, di-
rectly or indirectly, by the informa-
By your use of this book or PDF you tion presented herein.
agree to the following:
USE THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WARNING! The activities described
IN THIS BOOK AT YOUR OWN RISK. in this book carry a significant risk VOLKER Japanese translations currently in
of personal injury or death. DO NOT progress.
The techniques, ideas and sugges- participate in these activities un- Volker Schöffl, MD, PhD, MHBA,
tions presented in this book should less you are an expert, have sought FAWM is the senior physician of the Volker has been climbing for more
not be considered medical advice, and obtained qualified professional Department of Sports Medicine and than 35 years and has done over 100
and they are not intended to replace instruction or guidance, are knowl- Sports Orthopedics in Bamberg, first ascents up to 8b, mostly in Laos,
consultation with a qualified medical edgeable about the risks Germany. He is adjunct professor of Thailand, South East Asia and Fran-
professional. Any application or use involved, or are willing to assume trauma and orthopedic surgery at the kenjura, Germany. He is a pioneer in
of the techniques, ideas, and sugges- personal responsibility for all risks FAU Erlangen-Nuremberg and ad- rock climbing in Thailand and was
tions contained herein is at the read- associated with these activities. The joint assistant professor of emergen- amongst the first group of people
er’s sole discretion and risk. learning and/or practice of suitable cy medicine at the University of Colo- to climb in Krabi in 1990. He left his
techniques and safety measures rado School of Medicine. He is also a mark, climbing routes all over South-
THE AUTHORS, PUBLISHER, DIS- is your sole responsibility, and you visiting professor to the Leeds Becket east Asia, Borneo, Laos etc. He estab-
TRIBUTOR, ADIDAS and/or anyone assume any and all risks associated University in the UK. His scientific lished rock climbing in Laos, doing
else connected with the creation, with the practice of techniques dis- focus is on climbing and ski moun- over 100 first ascents there. He also
marketing, and distribution of this cussed herein. taineering injuries and biomechanics boulders, ice climbs and does moun-
book (collectively referred to as of the hand. He is the team doctor taineering, especially ski mountain-
the “Authors”) MAKE NO WARRAN- If you are unwilling to assume these for the German Climbing Team, the eering. Last year, age 52, he was able
TIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, OF ANY risks, do not use this book or under- German Ski Mountaineering Team, to send his hardest boulder problem
KIND IN CONNECTION WITH THIS take the activities or the training the German Paraclimbing Team and a yet, “North Star” Fb 8a+/V12 in the
BOOK, INCLUDING WARRANTIES techniques described herein. member of MedCom UIAA and IFSC. Frankenjura.
OF SAFETY OR FITNESS FOR ANY He serves as a consultant doctor to
PARTICULAR PURPOSE, AND EX- the Adidas Terrex International Out- He combines his enthusiasm for
PRESSLY DISCLAIM ANY WARRAN- door team. His book “One Move Too climbing and medicine with his med-
TY REGARDING THE ACCURACY OR Many” is the most valued book on ical aid project in Laos, where he and
RELIABILITY OF THE INFORMATION climbing medicine, already available his wife work annually as volunteer
CONTAINED HEREIN. in five languages with Chinese and doctors. (www.sportsmedicine.rocks)
2 THE AUTHORS 3
DICKI PATRICK
Dicki (Ludwig) Korb is a sport climb- Patrick Matros is a lecturer for sport
ing and functional-fitness trainer, and educational science as well as
therapist and pedagogue. He has been for various sports at the State In-
climbing for 33 years and has gath- stitute for Teachers Education in
ered 18 years of expertise in climb- Bayreuth, Germany. He has a mas-
ing training with a variety of the best ter’s degree in sport and education-
athletes in this sport. The world-re- al sciences and is a certified sports
nowned training book “Gimme Kraft” therapist, certified athletic trainer
written together with Patrick Matros and member of the International
is a collection of climbing training Rock Climbing Research Associa-
expertise based on their various long- tion (IRCRA). Patrick is the author
term activities as coaches. Dicki and of several specialist sport and edu-
Patrick both work providing training cation books and articles, including
for all kinds of climbing-related ath- the worldwide bestseller “Gimme
letes all over the world. Dicki is part Kraft!”, co-authored with Dicki Korb.
of the education team in the German Together, they have trained athletes
climbing federation and consulting at the Federal Center of Sportclimb-
coach for the German Climbing Team. ing in Nuremberg for several years
Additionally, he has been part of the and currently coach climbing team bat, Bernd Zangerl, Melissa le Neve, routes between 8a and 8c. In 2011,
“Centre of Excellence” for the Adidas members of Adidas Terrex Outdoor. Thomas Huber, Fabian Buhl, Kevin he was able to make one of his big-
Terrex Global Team for four years, In cooperation with Adidas Terrex Jorgeson, Petra Klingler, as well gest dreams come true with an all
evaluating and supporting Adidas ath- International Outdoor, they have de- as other top climbers and national clean first ascent of Archon (8b) in
letes together with Patrick and Volker. veloped a completely new concept for teams of several countries trust their his home area, the Frankenjura. At
(www.kraftfactory.de) training and coaching outdoor elite advice. the time of publishing, Archon is the
climbers. Numerous Adidas Ter- most difficult trad route in the region
rex Outdoor team members such as Patrick has 20 years of climbing ex- and has only been repeated by Alex-
Barbara Zangerl, Mayan Smith Go- perience with about 200 ascents of ander Megos. (www.kraftfactory.de)
4 THE AUTHORS THE AUTHORS 5
THE EXERCISES
Resistance Band Behind the Back 42
SECTION 1: GENERAL ACT –
Rotation Curls 43
ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING
External Rotation with
FOR ROCK CLIMBERS
Resistance Band 43
SHOULDERS Handstand Walkabouts 44
Handstand Walkabouts 20 Bear Walk with Arm Raises and
Sword Pull 21 Other Variations 45
Rotation Curls 22 Kneeling Neck Pulls 45
Chest Opener 22 Ring Push-ups 46
ACT Pull-ups 23 Scapular Dips 46
Wall Slides 24 ACT Rowing 47
ACT Rowing 48
ELBOWS Kneeling Neck Pulls 49
Finger extensors with ACT band 25 Fake Pull-ups 49
Finger extensors and wrist rotation Kettlebell Overhead Press 50
with ACT band 26 Circular Handstand Push-ups 51
WRIST External Rotation with
Upside-down Kettlebells 27 Resistance Band 51
Rotation Curls 52
CORE: ABDOMINAL AND Weighted Prone Internal Rotations 52
BACK MUSCLES ACT Pull-ups 53
Power Plank 28 Wall Slides 54
Twisted Mountain Climbers on Prone Scapular Stabilisers 55
Stability Ball 29 Combined Scapular Push-ups 55
Core Pendulums 29
ELBOWS
HIPS Eccentric Finger Curls
One-legged Romanian Deadlift with Resistance Band 57 Eccentric Variation with Hammer 66 Look Around 77
Variation 30 Flexor Sling Stretch on Stability Ball 57 Reverse Kettlebell Push-ups 67 Neck Press 77
Wrist Extensor Training 58
LEGS FINGER INJURIES HIPS
Finger Extensor Training
Active Hamstring Mobilisers 31 Finger Extensor Training T-Stand Hip Rotations 78
with ACT Band 58
One-legged Chair Squats on with ACT Band 69 Sideplank Leg Lift 79
Eccentric Variation with Hammer 59
Foam Mat 32 Finger Extensor Training 69 ACT Squat 79
Eccentric Finger Exercise 59
Fire Hydrants 80
FEET Eccentric Finger Extensor Exercise 60 SPINE AND CORE Active Hamstring Mobilisers 81
Ankle Supination Rolls 33 Wrist Flexors with a Dumbbell 61 Core Pendulums 70 Rotated Hamstring Stretch 82
Compass 33 Eccentric Finger Curls Power Plank 71 T-Stand Squat 82
with Resistance Band 61 Foam Roller with Kettlebell
Dumbbell Curls 62 Push and Pull 72 KNEES
SECTION 2: INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – Eccentric Variation with Hammer 62 Shoulder Girdle Openers on One-legged Romanian Deadlift
ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING Eccentric Brachialis Exercise 63 Stability Ball 73 Variation 83
FOR ROCK CLIMBERS Eccentric Biceps Exercise 64 Floor Angel 73 One-legged Push with Barbell 84
Sword Pull 64 Wall Angel 74 One-legged Lunge Variation 84
SHOULDERS
Overhead Squat with Bar 74
Sword Pull 41 WRIST ANKLES
Elbow Raisers 75
Tabletop Arm Wrist Stabilisation with Kettlebell 65 Ankle Supination Rolls 85
Stability Ball Pretzel 76
Extensions 42 Wrist and Finger Extensor Training 66 Compass 85
Pretzel 76
6 THE EXERCISES THE EXERCISES 7
INTRODUCTION
ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY cardiopulmonary capacity helps to
TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS: endure the high specific training load
CLIMBERS’ COMPENSATION in climbing, and thus should also be
TRAINING WITH A MEDICAL part of your training program. Both of
FOUNDATION these training styles focus on build-
ing up your strength to climb as hard
It is a well-known but often over- as you want to, but there is a flaw in
looked fact that climbing involves not this! These methods of training are
only strong fingers but also a strong very climbing-specific and mostly
overall athletic build. Many climbers focus on muscle slings and innerva-
focus their training mainly on finger tion patterns which operate during a
strength without paying attention to climbing move. In order to withstand
the fact that those fingers are at- such trainings over a longer period
tached to a body, and that body needs of time and to prevent injuries, the
to be trained as well. Many injuries antagonists and neglected muscle
can be avoided by increasing overall groups MUST be addressed. This is
strength, for example scapular stabi- where ACT comes into play.
lisers and core strength. Purely dead
hanging on crimping fingers won’t Adjunct Compensatory Training fo- world-renowned climbing trainers ly work with both elite athletes and
get you far! If we were to subdivide cuses on training the neglected mus- and coaches. Coming from a top-lev- “normal” climbers, we perpetually
training for rock climbing into three cle slings and innervation patterns el climbing background themselves, evaluated, restructured and remod-
categories, these would be specific within their specific range of motion, they focus on climbing-specific train- elled our exercises, structuring and
finger-strength and climbing train- building up posture and core strength ing (“Gimme Kraft”, “Kraftfactory”) fine-tuning a program which we find
ing, overall general strength training as well as balancing the athletic and biomechanical analysis of climb- most effective.
(including some cardio training) and build of the body. The ACT concept ing. Weaknesses in certain climbers
a third, new component, defined as was inspired by our long-time co- which can be reduced through spe- The ACT program consists of two
Adjunct Compensatory Training, or operation with high-level athletes. cific and adjunct training are fre- sections. The general section focus-
ACT. We combine our sports-medical and quently revealed by the biomechani- es on preventative exercises espe-
trainings-methodical knowledge to cal aspects. Combining our two fields cially for climbers and the specific
Regarding climbing-specific and effectively prevent injuries and over- of expertise, we have collaborated to section defines the adjunct and extra
finger-strength training, we refer to strain. Volker Schöffl, as the MD in create Adjunct Compensatory Train- exercises which you can do as an in-
various literature including “Gimme the group, analyses the body from a ing, which aims to rebuild neglected jured climber, in addition to surgical
Kraft” by Dicki (Ludwig) Korb and sports-medical and biomechanical range of motion in muscle slings and or conservative medical therapy.
Patrick Matros. This training can be point of view. With his vast knowl- to improve neuromuscular innerva-
performed either while climbing or edge of climbing injuries (Volker tion patterns. Thus, it will help you The exercises comprising the gener-
separately (e.g. campus boarding, Schöffl, Thomas Hochholzer, Sam to better withstand specific climbing al section are based on our biome-
dead hangs etc.). Other muscles Lightner Jr. “One Move Too Many”) training and reduce injury and the chanical analysis of climbing move-
groups such as the biceps or the pecs and as a highly active avid climber, risk of overexertion. The ACT con- ments, as well as climbers’ posture,
can be trained with various general he understands why certain condi- cept was born in 2015 and has been build and the causes of chronic inju-
strength-training exercises like bi- tions could and do lead to injuries in consistently developed further with- ries over time. This collection should
ceps curls. Don’t forget that a high the long-term. Dicki and Patrick are in our group since then. In our dai- be an adjunct program, completed
8 INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION 9
consequences in your future life. Of climbing (e.g. granite, sandstone or
course we can’t eliminate the sudden limestone) which have specific tex-
onset of a trauma, but we definitely tures for hand- and footholds, there-
think that we can decrease the like- fore requiring various techniques
lihood of trauma and the onset of for climbing. On the other hand, in
chronic conditions together through indoor climbing, which is becoming
ACT. There’s only one factor which more and more popular, an endless
we can’t influence: you have to do number of different hand- and foot-
your ACT, we can’t do that for you! holds in addition to the combination
of walls in various angles of steep-
For more comprehensive medical in- ness guarantee that no two moves
formation on climbing-specific con- are identical. In this regard, modern
ditions, we refer to “One Move Too indoor bouldering is renowned for
Many” (Volker Schöffl, Thomas Hoch- continuing to raise the bar.
holzer, Sam Lightner Jr., Sharp End
publishing, Boulder, CO, USA), the The diversity of movements including
German edition ”Soweit die Hände pulling, pushing, twisting and swing-
greifen” or the various other trans- ing makes it difficult to determine
lations. For purely strength-related the weak points in the locomotive
training, we refer to “Gimme Kraft” system of a climber which are the
(Patrick Matros, (Dicki) Ludwig Korb, cause of overstress or injuries relat-
in addition to your normal training take this booklet along and speak Café Kraft GmbH). This book here is ed to training for climbing.
at least twice per week. One session with her or him. Thus, the second intended as the bridge between those
takes approximately 20 minutes and section of the ACT program has two ends of the spectrum of training A first evidence-based step results
you should choose one or two exer- been developed for certain injuries for climbing. from a targeted analysis of specialist
cises per focus from the collection. and focuses on the specific aspects diagnoses of climbing injuries, over-
It’s your decision whether you want of ACT which are relevant to these Ok, let’s go further into the theory strain injuries, and their case history.
to do this before or after a climbing injuries. It is possible to add some behind ACT. The medical centre for sport climbing
session or separately on your well exercises from the general ACT, but in Bamberg, Germany, under the di-
deserved “rest day”. Alternatively, again, especially after surgery, con- rection of mastermind Volker Schöffl,
you can choose from the exemplary sult with your treating physician re- CLIMBING AS A SPORT is world-renowned for injuries of this
circuits of exercises and just follow garding which exercises are allowed WITH A HIGH DIVERSITY variety (Sportsmedicine Bamberg –
these. at which stage in the rehabilitation OF SPECIFIC MOVEMENTS www.sportsmedicine.rocks).
The exercises included in the spe- process. The specific section helps
cific section are designed to help to answer a question often asked by Modern climbing and bouldering The next step is based on the iden-
your therapy in the case of an injury injured climbers: what can I do to are disciplines which require a huge tification of problematic patterns of
or overstrain. These exercises are recover? How can I supplement my number of degrees of freedom in movement, understanding the func-
not intended to substitute a doctor’s rehab in addition to what the doctor their movements. The central objec- tional anatomy behind these move-
evaluation but outline what you can or physiotherapist does? Here is the tive is always to solve new problems. ments and analysing where limited
do to help the healing process. It is answer: ACT. Thus, we focus on the development range of motion or biased muscle
important to remember in gener- of open movement and flexibility innervation could have led to myo-
al and especially after surgery that We want you to enjoy your climbing skills in sport climbing. The diver- fascial disharmony or imbalance.
you need to consult your responsi- as much as we do ours. This should sity of movements is related to the Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb are
ble physician before proceeding; just be injury-free and without negative different types of rock in outdoor the founders of the “Kraftfactory”,
10 INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION 11
one of the leading climbing train- ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY creased instability is often shown in
ing services. They are committed to TRAINING (ACT-TRAINING) – the tutorials available on many video
achieving a deeper understanding of THE BETTER PREVENTATIVE channels.
the connection between anatomy and ANSWER
injury; many top-level climbers seek We believe in good sensory control of
their advice. The goal of our ACT-Training is to movement and, as such, focus on the
compensate biased movement pat- smaller, subtler movements of the
terns and strengthen the structures exercises. This often means that the
THE MYTH OF of the locomotive system which un- athletes have to withstand some dis-
ANTAGONIST TRAINING dergo high strain during climbing. comfort, but this is exactly the point
Learning functional movement pat- at which the adaption process starts.
So-called “antagonist training”, as terns and their transfer into climb-
it has come to be known, seems to ing movement plays a crucial role in ACT-TRAINING – WHAT IS IT?
be undifferentiated and is generally achieving this goal. Additionally, we
ineffective in achieving the goal of try to integrate the neglected mus- Let’s take a popular exercise to clari-
injury prevention. The perspective cle groups with the primary goal of fy: The I-Y-T Exercise, which is usual-
that the movements of climbing have achieving maximum active control of ly done using a sling trainer.
antagonist muscles which weaken the range of motion and innervation
over time due to poor innervation of muscle chains working together In this exercise, you pull your known pioneer of functional move-
and, as such, need to be “built up”, functionally. We cannot endorse and whole body out of a slightly back- ment. He described the so-called
shows a rudimentary understanding do not practice a simple hypertrophy wards-tilted position into a vertical “upper cross syndrome” as a func-
of the functional anatomy of the hu- strength training of the so-called position. This exercise is performed tional imbalance induced by high
man body. “antagonist muscles”. with the arms in three positions: tone and myofascial shortening of
elevation with the arms in maximum specific muscles of the shoulder
To get to the point, this means: overhead position (the “I”), elevation girdle (e.g. Mm pectoralis major et
with the arms at approximately 130° minor) which can’t be compensated
■■ Try to maintain a high and func- abduction in the shoulder joint (the sufficiently. In many cases, this can
tional range of motion in your “Y”), and elevation with the arms at be observed as a prominent kyphosis
joints which are often stressed by 90° abduction in the shoulder joint of the climber’s back. Clinical symp-
imbalanced movement in sport (the “T”). toms are well known and often pro-
and activities of daily life voked by frequent bad posture while
In our opinion, this exercise doesn’t sitting. The muscles known as prime
■■ Try to keep a highly active neu- adequately target our goal of bal- movers during climbing movements
romuscular control of this range anced compensation training; there (Mm. pectoralis major et minor or M.
of motion by strengthening your are many more cons than pros. The latissimus dorsi) can also intensify
muscles at the edges of mobility goal of this exercise is to strengthen the problem. The I-Y-T exercise aims
and by implementing functional specific muscle groups of the shoul- to strengthen the “neglected” mus-
movement patterns der girdle, which prevent or mini- cles in a way of “anti-movement”,
mise a non-functional posture of the which initially doesn’t seem like a bad
We don’t base our exercises on their upper-body, while simultaneously idea. However, this exercise doesn’t
visual attractiveness or coolness training the core. consider the very specific neglected
factor. Unfortunately, this kind of ex- range of motion in climbing move-
ercise which focuses on impressive The idea can be traced back to Vlad- ment regarding the aforementioned
body positions or unnecessarily in- imir Janda, neurologist and well- muscles and muscle slings, for ex-
12 INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION 13
ample the lack of maximum flexing in
the shoulder joint (maximum open-
We don’t reject sling trainer exer-
cises; on the contrary, we work a lot
THE STUFF YOU NEED
ing of the shoulder-torso-angle). The with this device! However, we anal-
I-Y-T doesn’t target this problem, as yse every popular exercise exactly, Although we have focused on exercises
you can compensate much too early weighing up the pros and cons to which do not require much equipment,
with your lumbar spine since it is ex- make sure that it is suitable for our you will need a few basic things.
ecuted in a plank position. goals.
Therefore, the aforementioned core This collection of exercises can-
aspect of this exercise, which is of- not replace a personal trainer who,
ten proclaimed as an advantage, is based on knowledge and long-term
actually a disadvantage! Instead, we experience, would be able to identify Kettlebell
recommend exercises which enable and treat specific and individual dys-
much better control of active range functional patterns. We’ve tried our
of motion in the shoulder joint, such best to document the most frequent Dumbbell
as lifting the arms while in a heel injuries and overstress syndromes
seat. The lumbar spine is locked in known in sport climbing and to show
this exercise and the climber can you exercises which have proven
focus much better on the intended themselves throughout years of our
target. Nevertheless, we still work work and can make you a better
in a functional way, not isolating sin- climber!
gle muscles, which can often lead to
transfer problems. Train smart! J
Foam Mat
Stability Ball
Foam Roller
Small
Resistance Loop Long
(ACT band) Resistance Band
14 THE STUFF YOU NEED 15
SECTION 1:
GENERAL
ACT – ADJUNCT
COMPENSATORY
TRAINING
FOR ROCK CLIMBERS
16 17ACT TRAINING GOALS AND CATEGORIES
MOBILITY:
4-20 repetitions depending on flexibility;
low to medium intensity (no pain); optional short
static hodling phase at limit of range of motion
STRENGTH ENDURANCE:
12-25 repetitions; static or dynamic; ARAP
MUSCLE/STRENGTH BUILDING:
6-12 repetitions; dynamic (slow, moderate); ARAP
INTERMUSCULAR COORDINATION:
12-20 repetitions, dynamic (medium);
medium intensity, not ARAP, since the
movements become inaccurate at this point
The general part of the ACT exercise in with our concept of an individually
collection is based on our biome- tailored training program. Addition-
chanical analysis of climbing move- ally, an exact number of repetitions SETS
ments, as well as climbers’ posture, or sets for specific purposes or Generally, we recommend multiple sets (2-4) during the beginning or
build and the causes of chronic inju- goals is not scientifically verifiable strengthening phase. During the maintenance phase (e.g. competition phase),
ries over time. This collection should in most cases (e.g. Friedmann, B. fewer sets (1-2) can be completed.
be an adjunct program, completed German Journal of Sportsmedicine
in addition to your normal training 58, 1, 2007). It’s only possible to de-
at least twice per week. One session fine specific phases in which certain
takes approximately 20 minutes and physiological chain reactions are
you should choose one or two exer- more strongly trained, e.g. “time
cises per focus from the collection. under tension” as a stimulator for
We strongly recommend varying muscular hypertrophy. Finer details
your choice of exercises to ensure are then set individually. In addition
the best training outcome. It’s your to suggesting an appropriate range
decision whether you want to do this of repetitions, we use the following
before or after your climbing session parameters:
or separately on your well-deserved
“rest day”. ■■ speed of motion: static hold,
dynamic (slow, medium, fast)
There are no strict instructions for
repetitions and sets for the follow- ■■ intensity: low, medium, high,
ing exercises, since this doesn’t fit ARAP (as many reps as possible)
18 GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 19SHOULDERS SWORD PULL
Fasten a resistance band at a height of about 15-20 cm
above the floor to a suitable place, e.g. a radiator, wall
bars or similar. Standing in an upright position with your
Strong shoulders help you to hold are far more important for stabilisa-
side to the point of fixation and your feet shoulder-width
onto small holds. That strength tion, may be weak. Additionally, joint
apart, imagine that you are aiming to put your shoulder
doesn’t come out of nowhere; the capsular tension and the ligaments
blades into your back pockets. Pull the resistance band,
shoulders need to be trained. Howev- in between the humerus and the gle-
already under light tension, diagonally upwards, leading
er, strong shoulders aren’t the same noid, the joint socket at the scapula,
with your elbow as though you were drawing a sword.
as BIG shoulders. Looking at an ath- are crucial in preventing dislocations
Make sure that your shoulders stay low and that the dis-
lete, the most visible muscle is the and subluxations. Consistent minor
tance between shoulders and ears remains unchanged.
deltoid, the upper muscular layer. subluxations can lead to chronic in-
When your elbow is so high that it can’t be raised any
While the deltoid can be well-trained, juries such as labral and biceps in-
further without lifting your shoulders, extend your fore-
for example in a bodybuilder, the un- sertion injuries or rotator cuff tears.
arm. This should all be done in one fluid motion.
derlying rotator cuff muscles, which
Shoulders
Elbows
Wrist & Fingers
HANDSTAND WALKABOUTS Spine & Core
Hips
Legs & Knees
Start with your feet elevated to approximately hip
height and your upper body in handstand position. Ankles & Feet
Make sure your hips are angled to at least 35°. Walk
your hands along the floor from one side to the other,
keeping your neck straight. Push your head and chest
actively between your shoulders. Alternatively, tap
one hand onto the other. 1
Shoulders
Elbows
Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core 2
Hips
Legs & Knees
Ankles & Feet
1 2 3
20 GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 21ROTATION CURLS SCAPULAR
Hold a medicine ball with a handle or a dumbbell, no
heavier than 4 kg. Extend your arm as far as possible
upwards and backwards with maximum external rotation.
STABILISATION
Lower your arm and return to the starting position by
following a “curl” motion. The stabilising scapular muscles are overstrained and tightened, causing
crucial for strong shoulders. These upper back pain, which occurs fre-
muscles work against an increased quently in high-level climbers. The
outward rotation of the scapula when more stable the scapula, the less
hanging or pulling up, preventing outward rotation can occur, mean-
“chicken wings”. They work mainly ing less “chicken winging”. “Chicken
between the inner rim of the scapula wings” cause the forearm muscles to
and the thoracic spine, e.g. the rhom- fail, leading to a fall, disaster, defeat,
boid muscles. They tend to become misery…
1 2 3
ACT PULL-UPS Shoulders
Elbows
Loop the ACT band around your forearms just below your Wrist & Fingers
elbows (not around the joint). Hang on a pull-up bar with Spine & Core
CHEST OPENER your hands shoulder-width apart so that the ACT band is
under light to medium tension. Do a pull-up, rotating your
Hips
Legs & Knees
Lie with your spine along the elbows slightly inwards, so that they are close to your body Ankles & Feet
length of a foam roller which is when you pull yourself upwards. The ACT band supports
long enough so that your lum the slight internal rotation of your elbows, ensuring that
bar spine and head can rest your shoulder blades remain in the desired position (down
comfortably. Extend your arms and back).
to the side and let them hang
downwards, stretching the front
of the shoulder joint and relaxing
the muscles of your chest. 1
Shoulders
Elbows
Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core
Hips
Legs & Knees
2 1 2
Ankles & Feet
22 GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 23WALL SLIDES
Facing a wall, stand approximately
20 cm away from the wall and slide your
forearms up and down the wall without
ELBOWS
Both the extensor and flexor muscle muscles for holding onto a hold, the
letting your arms move away from each
groups of the elbows and forearms extensors are required to stabilise
other. Make sure that your shoulder stay
are crucial to climbers. The main the wrist in overextension to deliver
down and that your hands, elbows and
finger flexor and extensor muscles strength to the finger tips. Therefore,
shoulders are aligned.
originate at the elbow and proximal both finger and wrist flexors and ex-
forearm. The small muscles within tensors need to be trained and must
the palm add to but are not respon- be in equilibrium. An imbalance in
sible for the key point in climbing strength will lead to overstrain.
– finger strength. While the flexor
Shoulders
muscles are obviously the functional
Elbows
Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core
Hips
Legs & Knees FINGER EXTENSORS
Ankles & Feet
WITH ACT BAND
Lay a resistance band across the fingertips of Shoulders
one hand and pull on it with the other hand so Elbows
that the fingers are half bent. Extend and spread
1 Wrist & Fingers
your fingers, controlling the tension of the resis-
Spine & Core
tance band with the other hand.
Hips
Legs & Knees
Ankles & Feet
2
2 3
1
24 GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 25FINGER EXTENSORS
AND WRIST ROTATION
WITH ACT BAND
WRIST
Many wrist conditions in climbers re- soft tissue structures underneath the
sult from a lack of active stabilisation skin. Therefore, let’s focus on the ex-
Start seated with your forearm resting on your of the wrist joint. These injuries can tensors and flexors. As for the elbow,
thigh. Lay a resistance band/ACT band across be avoided. In side-pulls, underclings both sides must be in equilibrium.
the fingertips of one hand, using the other hand and pinches, active wrist stabilisation
to pull on the band so that your wrist is slightly is the key to avoiding damage to the
bent. Open your hand with external rotation,
simultaneously extending your fingers so that
your wrist and fingers are extended.
UPSIDE-DOWN KETTLEBELLS
Shoulders Choose a medium-weight kettlebell which you Shoulders
Elbows can hold with one hand with the ball facing Elbows
upwards. Use your other hand to bring the ket-
Wrist & Fingers Wrist & Fingers
tlebell into this starting position, then remove
Spine & Core Spine & Core
the supporting hand. With your wrist in a neu-
Hips Hips
tral position and your shoulder blades down
Legs & Knees and back, try to push the kettlebell straight Legs & Knees
Ankles & Feet upwards until your arm is fully extended. Hold Ankles & Feet
this position for 5 seconds and then slowly
lower your arm. Use the other hand for sup-
port again to lower the kettlebell.
1
1 2 3
2 3
26 GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 27CORE: TWISTED MOUNTAIN CLIMBERS
ON STABILITY BALL
ABDOMINAL AND
Start in plank position with your feet on a stability ball.
Keep your body in one straight line with your neck as an
extension of your spine. From this position, bring one
BACK MUSCLES
knee to the opposite elbow, keeping the other foot stably
on the ball. Return to plank position and repeat with the
other leg.
Every climbing move starts from crucial in stabilising the body’s cen-
the core. A strong core helps you to tre. No steep climbing without strong
achieve the perfect position under- abs! No safe falling into the har-
neath the hold to effectively hold onto ness or onto the crash pad without a Shoulders
it. Staying close to the rock and not strong back! The abdominal and back Elbows
dangling away from it is one of the muscles function as armour around Wrist & Fingers
keys to doing hard moves. Both the your body’s centre, the abdominal Spine & Core
back and the abdominal muscles are cavity and the spine. 1 2 Hips
Legs & Knees
Ankles & Feet
POWER PLANK
CORE PENDULUMS
Fasten a resistance band at a height of about 15-20 cm above
the floor to a suitable place, e.g. a radiator, wall bars or similar. Lying on your back, place a foam roller, yoga block, or folded
Starting in a forearm plank facing the point of fixation with your towel between your knees with your knees and hips bent at
feet shoulder-width apart, pull the resistance band with one a 90° angle. Extend your arms towards the ceiling, loop the
arm. Choose the distance from the point of fixation such that the ACT Band around your wrists and pull your hands shoulder-
resistance band is under tension when your arm is fully extended. width apart, making sure that your elbows don’t jut out but
Make sure that your hips stay parallel to the floor when you pull. are in line with your shoulders and wrists. Maintaining the
starting position with your upper body and arms, tilt your
legs to the side, reaching the point at which you can hardly
hold your balance. Return to the starting position and tilt
your legs to the other side.
Shoulders 1
Elbows
Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core
Hips
Legs & Knees
2 3 1 2
Ankles & Feet
28 GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 29HIPS LEGS
Are hip muscles and pelvic stabil- more popular. Hips tend become tight Don’t think that legs aren’t import- you to hook better. All those drop-
isation important for climbers? It and weak pelvic stabilisers (e.g. the ant in climbing! The sheer increase knees are hard on your ligaments
may not seem like it at first, but they glutes) lead to a decreased range of in hamstring and leg muscle injuries and other passive structures. Again,
are! Hip conditions such as femoro- motion and back pain, which certainly due to heel hooking are proof of the the better your muscular build, the
acetabular impingement have been don’t help in climbing. Paying atten- importance of these muscle groups. more safe you can perform moves
increasing since crazy three-dimen- tion to the hips certainly pays off. Strong hamstrings guard the knee which seem nuts.
sional boulder moves have become joint and its inner ligaments and help
ONE-LEGGED ROMANIAN ACTIVE HAMSTRING
DEADLIFT VARIATION MOBILISERS
Start standing, holding a medium- Fasten a medium-strength resistance Shoulders
weight kettlebell. Lean your upper band to a pull-up bar so that you can Elbows
body forwards, lowering the arm stand on one foot and hang the heel of
Wrist & Fingers
with the kettlebell and extending the other in the band. Facing the band,
Spine & Core
the opposite leg backwards so pull the extended leg up and down,
Hips
that your torso and leg form a line using some momentum.
parallel to the floor – the T-Stand. Legs & Knees
Come back to standing position. Ankles & Feet
1 2
Shoulders
Elbows
Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core
Hips
Legs & Knees
3 1 2 3
Ankles & Feet
30 GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 31ONE-LEGGED CHAIR
FEET
Shoulders
Elbows
SQUATS ON FOAM MAT Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core
For this exercise, you will need a chair You use and abuse your feet all the time while climbing. You Hips
or an object of similar height which squeeze them into tiny shoes and as a reward, you jump up Legs & Knees
is stable enough that you can stand and down on them… ankle sprains, here we come. However,
Ankles & Feet
on it. Lay a foam mat on the chair and increasing proprioreception and ankle stability can help to pre-
place one foot on it. Without relying on vent twisting the ankles, which is a worthwhile investment to
momentum, try to stand up by pushing avoid a long-term absence from climbing. This may be an im-
through the bent leg until you are portant prophylactic measure for boulderers to take!
standing on the chair. Do a one-legged
squat, slowly lowering yourself to the
starting position. ANKLE SUPINATION ROLLS
1
In front of a wall or something you can hold for
stability, stand along the length of a foam roller with
your feet next to each other. Imagine that the soles of
2
your feet have been glued to the foam roller. Holding
onto the wall, roll to one side, cautiously testing
the limit of your ankles to roll over your full range
Shoulders of motion. Maintain contact between the soles of
Elbows your feet and the foam roller. Return to the starting
Wrist & Fingers
position and switch sides. For more of a challenge, 1
try this exercise without holding on to anything.
Spine & Core
Hips
2
Legs & Knees
Ankles & Feet COMPASS 1 2
Stand on a soft mat or other un
stable surface. Shift your weight to
one leg and slightly bend the knee
of your standing leg. Move your
free leg in all possible directions
around your standing leg, making
sure that your foot maintains
contact with the floor at all times.
Try to maximise the range of
motion for all positions.
3 4
3
32 GENERAL ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERSSECTION 2:
INJURY SPECIFIC ACT –
ADJUNCT
COMPENSATORY
TRAINING
FOR ROCK CLIMBERS
34 35slings, bars, towels or even without
any aids. While the quantity of rep-
etitions and of the sessions per day
may vary, we recommend that you
perform them at least once a day,
but in the best case, twice a day. If
your medical condition worsens
during your rehabilitation process,
you should stop and see your medical
practitioner. Especially after surgery,
it is important to consult with your
treating physician regarding which
ACT exercises are allowed at which
stage in the rehabilitation process.
As we said before, there are no strict
instructions for repetitions and sets
for the following exercises, since
this doesn’t fit in with our concept
of an individually tailored training
Now that we have explained some the ACT exercises. For more com- program. Additionally, an exact num-
of the overall aspects of muscular prehensive medical information on ber of repetitions or sets for specific
stability and compensation training climbing-specific conditions, we re- purposes or goals is not scientifical-
(ACT), we will describe the detailed fer to “One Move Too Many” (Volker ly verifiable in most cases. It’s only
exercises according to your medical Schöffl, Thomas Hochholzer, Sam possible to define specific phases
condition. As previously mentioned, Lightner Jr., Sharp End publishing, in which certain physiological chain
the intent of this book is not to sub- Boulder, CO, USA), ”Soweit die Hände reactions are more strongly trained,
stitute an exact medical diagnosis greifen” or the various other trans- e.g. “time under tension” as a stimu-
and workup but to show you how you lations. For purely strength-related lator for muscular hypertrophy. Finer
can support your rehabilitation pro- training, we refer to “Gimme Kraft” details are then set individually. In
cess on your own. You need to go and (Patrick Matros, (Dicki) Ludwig Korb, addition to suggesting an appropri-
see a doctor for an exact clinical di- Café Kraft GmbH). This book here is ate range of repetitions, we use the
agnosis. Once you’ve been diagnosed intended as the bridge between those following parameters:
and cleared by your doctor to start two ends of the spectrum of training
self-exercising, you can come back for climbing. ■■ speed of motion: static hold,
here. dynamic (slow, medium, fast)
In order to choose the various ex-
We also do not intend to go too far ercises shown here, we focused on ■■ intensity: low, medium, high,
into the medical knowledge and easy exercises which require little ARAP (as many reps as possible)
anatomy but will briefly outline the equipment, most of which can be
various conditions before explaining performed with resistance bands,
36 INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 37ACT TRAINING GOALS AND CATEGORIES
MOBILITY:
4-20 repetitions depending on flexibility;
low to medium intensity (no pain)
STRENGTH ENDURANCE:
12-25 repetitions; static or dynamic; ARAP
MUSCLE/STRENGTH BUILDING:
6-12 repetitions; dynamic (slow, moderate); ARAP
INTERMUSCULAR COORDINATION:
12-20 repetitions, dynamic (medium);
medium intensity, not ARAP, since the
movements become inaccurate at this point
SETS
Generally, we recommend multiple sets (2-4) during the beginning or
strengthening phase. During the maintenance phase (e.g. competition phase),
fewer sets (1-2) can be completed.
38 39SHOULDERS
The shoulder is a ball-and-socket joint insertion onto the bone. The long biceps
SWORD PULL
Fasten a resistance band at a height of about 15-20 cm
above the floor to a suitable place, e.g. a radiator, wall
bars or similar. Standing in an upright position with your
which is primarily stabilised by mus- tendon actually runs through the shoul- side to the point of fixation and your feet shoulder-width
cle tension, the joint capsule and a few der joint, and, as such, is the only tendon apart, imagine that you are aiming to put your shoulder
ligaments. The surface area of the joint in the human body to run inside a joint. blades into your back pockets. Pull the resistance band,
socket is much smaller than the humeral The rotator cuff, the active stabiliser of already under light tension, diagonally upwards, leading
head, with a ratio of approximately 1:4. To the joint, is formed by the four tendons of with your elbow as though you were drawing a sword.
make up for this difference in size, there the M. supraspinatus, M. infraspinatus, M. Make sure that your shoulders stay low and that the dis-
is a cartilage ring, the labrum, around subscapularis and the M. teres minor. Its tance between shoulders and ears remains unchanged.
the joint socket (the glenoid). The la- function is to centre the humerus head When your elbow is so high that it can’t be raised any
brum essentially creates a suction cup within the shoulder joint, thus allowing further without lifting your shoulders, extend your fore-
which helps to hold the ball in the sock- the deltoid muscles to move the shoul- arm. This should all be done in one fluid motion.
et. In addition to the passive components der. Each of these smaller muscles can
(bones and labrum), the shoulder is also also move the shoulder, but due to their
Shoulders
stabilised by the muscles of the rotator small size, the larger deltoids tend to do
Elbows
cuff. The unique anatomical design of the more powerful work. The rotator cuff
the shoulder gives it a very large range encircles the humerus head anteriorly, Wrist & Fingers
of motion but also allows for more dislo- superiorly and posteriorly. Its superi- Spine & Core
cations than any other joint in the body. or part, the supraspinatus tendon, runs Hips
Another important component of the through the acromion in what is called Legs & Knees
shoulder is the long biceps tendon and its the “subacromial space”. Ankles & Feet
IMPINGEMENT AND BURSITIS
There are several different forms of subject to minor tearing, inflammation
1
shoulder impingements, but distinguish- and calcifications within the tendon.
ing between internal and external im- Other sources of impingement are the
pingements and their various sub-groups presence of bone spurs in the AC joint
would be too medically technical for our or the overdevelopment of the supraspi-
purposes here. Generally speaking, if the natus muscle, a common occurrence in
muscles of the back, mainly the rhom- bodybuilders. The aim of all exercises in
boids and trapezius, do not stabilise the impingement syndrome are to stabilise
scapula, the space between the head of the scapula and to pull the humerus head
the humerus and the top of the socket further back as the impingement is most-
(the scapula) is smaller than necessary. ly anterior, in between the shoulder roof,
This squeezes the bursa, rotator cuff the acromion and the humerus head. As
muscles and/or long biceps tendons in- there are no muscles to directly pull the
sertion and labrum. The bursa becomes arm further downward, most exercises
inflamed and the tendons of the rotator focus on external rotation of the joint. 2 3
cuff, especially the supraspinatus, are
40 INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 41TABLETOP ARM EXTENSIONS ROTATION CURLS
Starting in tabletop position, press one hand into the floor and extend the Hold a medicine ball with a handle or a dumbbell, no heavier than 4
other arm to the side. Your palm is raised and the thumb is outwards. kg. Extend your arm as far as possible upwards and backwards with
Follow the motion with your head, focusing on your palm. Hold this maximum external rotation. Lower your arm and return to the starting
position for approximately 5 seconds before lowering the extended arm position by following a “curl” motion.
and returning to tabletop position. Repeat 5 times before changing sides.
Shoulders
Elbows
Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core
Hips
Legs & Knees
1 2 1 2 3
Ankles & Feet
RESISTANCE BAND BEHIND THE BACK EXTERNAL ROTATION Shoulders
Elbows
Hold the resistance band in such a way that you don’t have to actively grasp it but can WITH RESISTANCE BAND Wrist & Fingers
freely rotate your palms upwards during the exercise. The band should be stretched Spine & Core
so that you can still comfortably move your arms over your head and behind your Fasten a resistance band to the lowest rung of wall bars or Hips
back. With the band behind your back, keep your arms straight but don’t pull actively another appropriate place, approximately 10-20 cm above the Legs & Knees
on the band, allowing it to contract and pull your shoulders backwards. Slowly move floor. Stand with your side to the wall and raise your bent arm to
Ankles & Feet
your arms up and down in order to stretch the front of the shoulder joint shoulder height. In this position, the resistance band should be
from all angles. Don’t let your back hollow out. You can prevent this by under slight tension. Keeping your elbow bent and at shoulder
tensing your gluteus maximus and pushing your hips slightly forwards. height, raise your forearm as far upwards as possible, pulling
against the resistance band.
1 2 3 1 2
42 43INSTABILITY BEAR WALK WITH ARM RAISES
AND OTHER VARIATIONS
There are numerous forms and many arm. When a climber is resting on a
classifications of shoulder instabili- completely relaxed shoulder, all of Start in tabletop position and lift your knees a few
ties. Focusing on the most frequent his/her weight is held by the connec- centimetres from the floor. Crawl a few metres
specific problems of climbers, we only tive tissues of the joint capsule. These forwards in this position, focusing on keeping your
need to distinguish between the two passive structures are not meant to knees low to the floor and your elbows straight and
main forms: acute instabilities caused work without the flexion of the sur- internally rotated, maintaining an external rotation in
by trauma (dislocations) and chronic rounding muscles. Over time, the the shoulder.
instabilities caused by a loose joint. constant stress tends to stretch these
Acute instabilities are either repeti- structures, loosening the shoulder
tive sub-dislocations with a consec- joint.
utive loosening of the shoulder joint
capsule and ligaments which lead The exercises described here are sub-
to labral tears or acute dislocations. ject to both forms of instability, both
Most acute dislocations result in a chronic and acute. If you have had sur-
labral injury and require surgical re- gery after an acute dislocation, con-
1 2
pair in climbers. Chronic instabilities sult your surgeon and physiotherapist
result from underdeveloped shoulder regarding which specific ACT exercis-
stabilisers and are often provoked by es are allowed at which stage of the
hanging from a completely extended rehabilitation process.
KNEELING NECK PULLS Shoulders
Elbows
HANDSTAND WALKABOUTS Kneeling on one knee, fasten a resistance band in Wrist & Fingers
front of you at a height slightly above your head. Spine & Core
Start with your feet elevated to approximately hip height Holding the resistance band under slight tension, Hips
and your upper body in handstand position. Make sure lean your upper body forwards, making sure that your Legs & Knees
your hips are angled to at least 35°. Walk your hands along back stays flat and doesn’t round. Alternating sides, Ankles & Feet
the floor from one side to the other, keeping your neck pull your arms backwards, staying close to your sides.
straight. Push your head and chest actively between your Pull your arm backwards until your hand reaches the
shoulders. Alternatively, tap one hand onto the other. level of your neck.
Shoulders
Elbows
Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core
Hips
Legs & Knees
2
Ankles & Feet
1 1 2
44 INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 45RING PUSH-UPS ACT ROWING
Start in plank position with your hands in the rings Place a box, chair, or similar about one body length away
which are set a few centimetres above the floor, so that from the rings. Set the height of the rings so that your
you can just brush the floor with your fingertips. If this body is parallel to the floor when you hang in the rings
is too challenging, modify by starting in half-plank with with your arms outstretched your feet raised. Place a
your knees on the floor. Do a push-up, turning the rings mini resistance band (ACT band) around your wrists and
so that your arms stay close to your body. start in a horizontal position with your feet on the box,
hanging in the rings with extended arms (body tension J).
This exercise is called rowing because you pull yourself
up as far as possible with both arms as though you were Shoulders
rowing. Make sure that your palms face each other and Elbows
that your elbows stay close to your body. Pull the ACT Wrist & Fingers
band outwards with your wrists until your hands are about Spine & Core
shoulder-width apart. Make sure that you keep your body Hips
aligned. It’s easy to want to lift your head above the height Legs & Knees
1 2 of the rings, but that’s not the aim of the exercise. It’s Ankles & Feet
much more important to keep your shoulder blades in a
stable position throughout. This is aided by the use of the
ACT band; by pulling the band apart with your wrists, your
SCAPULAR DIPS shoulder blades are automatically pulled together.
Start in dip position either on a dip
bar or between two tables. From this
position, do so-called scapular dips. In
contrast to normal dips, don’t bend your
arms but rotate your elbows slightly
inwards. Lower your head between your
shoulders and use your shoulder blades
to push your head back up. The focus of
this exercise should be on the internal 1
rotation of the elbows and on the position 1
of the shoulder blades while pushing
yourself up.
Shoulders
Elbows
Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core
Hips
2
Legs & Knees
2
Ankles & Feet
46 INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 47SLAP INJURIES KNEELING NECK PULLS
Kneeling on one knee, fasten a resistance band in front
SLAP tears, or tears of the superior la- alone or together with the upper labrum of you at a height slightly above your head. Holding the
brum from anterior to posterior, are the of the glenoid, pull the biceps anchor, resistance band under slight tension, lean your upper
most frequent shoulder condition on leading to a SLAP tear. Minor SLAP inju- body forwards, making sure that your back stays flat
which we need to operate. The tendon ries benefit from shoulder stabilisation and doesn’t round. Alternating sides, pull your arms
of the long biceps head inserts into the exercises, while complete tears require backwards, staying close to your sides. Pull your arm
upper part of the labrum of the shoul- surgery. After surgery, these injuries backwards until your hand reaches the level of your
der. It undergoes stress once the arm is will benefit from ACT exercises before neck.
above the head and pulls inwardly, e.g. you can resume climbing. Please speak
in a finger crack or gaston move. With with your treating surgeon regarding the
the constant and recurring pull of the best time to start these exercises during Shoulders
long biceps tendon on its insertion, it your rehabilitation process. Elbows
can partly or completely tear and, either Wrist & Fingers
Spine & Core
Hips
Legs & Knees
ACT ROWING Ankles & Feet
1 2
Place a box, chair, or similar about one body length away from the rings. Set the
height of the rings so that your body is parallel to the floor when you hang in the
rings with your arms outstretched your feet raised. Place an ACT band around your
wrists and start in a horizontal position with your feet on the box, hanging in the
rings with extended arms (body tension). This exercise is called rowing because
you pull yourself up as far as possible with both arms as though you were rowing. FAKE PULL-UPS
Make sure that your palms face each other and that your elbows stay close to your
body. Pull the ACT band outwards with For this exercise, you will need a
your wrists until your hands are about bar of about 120 cm in length (e.g. 1
shoulder-width apart. Make sure that a broom handle) and ideally, a 5 cm
you keep your body aligned. It’s easy to thick mat. If you don’t have a mat, this
want to lift your head above the height exercise can also be done without.
of the rings, but that’s not the aim of the Lie flat with your body on the mat
exercise. It’s much more important to and your head extending over the
keep your shoulder blades in a stable edge of the mat, or simply flat on the
position throughout.
1 floor if you don’t have a mat. Grasp
This is aided by the bar with both hands, hands
Shoulders 2
the use of the ACT shoulder width apart. Raise your
Elbows
band; by pulling head slightly and look at the floor –
Wrist & Fingers
the band apart with this is important to ensure that keep
Spine & Core your neck straight. Pull the bar with
your wrists, your
Hips both hands as far behind your head
shoulder blades
Legs & Knees are automatically as possible. Repeat 5 times without
2
Ankles & Feet pulled together. lowering your head.
48 INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS INJURY SPECIFIC ACT – ADJUNCT COMPENSATORY TRAINING FOR ROCK CLIMBERS 49You can also read
