A magazine by Wild Frontiers Issue One - Wild Frontiers Travel
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WILD
A magazine by Wild Frontiers • Issue One
www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 1
Contents
Challenging Perceptions, Inspiring Connections
04 Why Wild Frontiers
06 Eagle Festival, Mongolia
08 Mount Bromo, Indonesia When I motorbiked around Africa in 1991, the world was a different place. The
10 Bensley Flair Congo was called Zaire, Sudan was one country and Eritrea didn’t exist. Further
12 20 Destinations for 2020 afield, the wall was just about still standing in Berlin, Al Qaeda hadn’t formed, and
16 The Written World the world’s most-wanted man was a Colombian drug baron called Pablo Escobar.
17 What We Brought Home
18 Sustainable Travel What also didn’t exist was the internet. And for good and for bad, this technology
19 License to Drive has profoundly changed the way most of us travel. To record my adventures in the
20 The Poetry of the Hindu Kush nineties, I carried a notebook, a camera and a few rolls of film. There were no blog
24 A Journey Through India
sites on which to post my daily thoughts, no Instagram to share my photos and, all
28 The Return of the Cambodian Riviera
importantly, no messaging apps to keep in touch with home. For that luxury, I had to
32 Dispatches: Armenia
34 The Taste of Georgia
rely on picking up letters from random poste restante offices, usually thousands of
36 Know Your Stans miles apart. But, as a result, I felt totally connected to the world around me.
40 The New Old Middle East
42 In The Shade At each stop, talking to people was a necessity. It led to many friendships, some of
44 Hot New Latin America which have lasted a lifetime. I spent my evenings with each new acquaintance, sharing
46 The Lands That Time Forgot the moments that make travel the great unifier, enlightener and positive experience
49 150 Year Old Lens it is.This, for me, is the reason we travel – and what we have always tried to achieve
at Wild Frontiers. Dramatic landscapes, exquisite architecture and great hotels and
restaurants are all well and good, but without meeting the people that live among
Contributors them, that have inspired them, we are only really getting half the story. And that is
not enough.
Emma Thomson
Despite the many wonders of the internet, I feel fortunate to have experienced my
Emma has been hooked on all things ‘travel’ since the age of 14, when she would sneakily rip pages out
of ageing copies of National Geographic in the school library to add to her travel scrapbook. A few
big adventures at a time when travel demanded you throw yourself into a culture,
years on (ahem), she’s been working as a full-time freelance travel journalist since 2011. She writes for a without the distractions of having the familiar world of home in your back pocket.
wide range of newspapers and magazines. In this issue, she travels to Pakistan’s Hindu Kush (see pg. 16). And it has always been the goal of Wild Frontiers to act as a means to allow others
to experience the same. I truly believe it is through the sharing of experiences and
Stanley Stewart stories that we come to understand one another better; that by breaking down
Stanley is the author of three highly acclaimed travel books and several hundred articles based on
barriers we inspire enduring moments of connection with the people we meet and
journeys across five continents. His latest book, In the Empire of Genghis Khan, about a thousand-mile
horse ride across Mongolia, has been translated into ten languages, and was the BBC Book of the Week.
the places we go. By doing so, we aren’t just travelling somewhere; we’re part of
In this issue, he travels to the Cambodian Riviera (see pg. 24). something.
Nick Redmayne: This first Wild Frontiers magazine is, therefore, all about challenging perceptions and
Nick’s first forays abroad were tempered by paranoid xenophobia, a hangover from an infamous French inspiring connections. Right now – and I hope you agree – the world could do with
master. However, now having visited almost 70 countries he writes regularly on travel, reports for CNN
a little more empathy to open up new windows on our amazing planet.
and can be heard on BBC radio’s From Our Own Correspondent. In this issue of Wild, he visits Ethiopia (see
pg. 42). His collection of travel writing, Dispatches, is available now.
Happy travels,
Carla Capablo:
Carla is a food, wine and travel writer with numerous publications to her credit. Her work as journalist,
photographer, cookbook author and editor on both sides of the Atlantic spans over 25 years and she
most recently fell in love with the food of the Caucasus. See pg. 30 for a taste.
Produced and designed by The Wilderness Conspiracy. Published in the UK by Wild Frontiers & printed by
Jonny Bealby
Digiprint Corp., Reno, NV. ©2019 Wild Frontiers. All rights reserved. Nothing in whole or in part may be Founder and CEO of Wild Frontiers
reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Cover image: Swing near the village of Chkalovka,
in the Gegharkunik Province of Armenia by Vruyr Martirosyan.
2 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 3
Why Wild Frontiers
Get to know Wild Frontiers: Who we are and why we love planning travel for our clients Authentic, cutting-edge experiences: Our group tours and tailor- Tailor-made vacations: Our team of experts have all traveled
made itineraries are unique and original, allowing you to venture extensively in their region of expertise and have years of experience
beneath the surface of a region.We run our group tours along routes creating exciting and unique itineraries. Each year they revisit their
Wild Frontiers is an award-winning adventure travel company, India, getting below the surface in Southeast Asia, discovering the we have discovered for ourselves, meaning we are able to give a truly region to check on existing properties and source the best new
founded in 2002 by travel writer Jonny Bealby. markets and ruins of Central America, finding ancient cultures in authentic, off-the-beaten-track experience. accommodations, as well as find the most exciting new excursions.
We specialise in stylish and original small group tours and custom Ethiopia or camping in the deserts of Jordan. We offer group tours They will help you put together your ideal trip, selecting the right
adventures to the Indian Subcontinent, Central Asia & the Far and tailor-made vacations, honeymoons and family trips to all of Be the first: Our style of travel is all about exploration and nothing accommodations for you – whether that be a luxury houseboat in
East, the Middle East, Europe and the Caucasus, Africa, Southeast these destinations and more. excites us more than opening up new routes to genuine travelers, even Kashmir or a working estancia in Argentina – as well as arranging
Asia and Latin America. We are firm believers that traveling is all What’s more, all three companies happily share the same ethos – to if that makes our job harder at times. From Saudi Arabia to Nicaragua, excursions and sightseeing tailored to you. As with all Wild Frontiers
about the experience, and it is the details – the places you stay, the provide once-in-a-lifetime experiences tailored to suit the needs of we are often the first to return to places that have vanished from the trips, you will get an authentic travel experience with plenty of local
transportation and route that gets you there, and the people you the modern traveler, whilst doing our utmost to protect the people, tourist map, specializing in ground-breaking reconnaissance trips and interaction, safe in the knowledge you are traveling responsibly thanks
meet along the way – that make a trip extraordinary. nature and culture of the countries we are lucky enough to visit. imaginative expeditions. to our award-winning ethical credentials.
We draw on our own extensive local knowledge and array of
on-the-ground contacts to create authentic, extraordinary travel Why travel with Wild Frontiers Small group size: On our escorted tours, we believe it is imperative
experiences in some of the world’s most captivating destinations – to keep the group sizes small. Most of our trips are limited to a
often in regions other travel companies don’t go. Many of our clients choose to travel with us year after year, and for maximum of 12 travelers, giving you more access to fragile cultures,
Since our founding we have seen an increasing number of American good reason. Whether you join us on a group tour or have one of better opportunities to interact with local people and the knowledge
guests on our group tours and tailor-made vacations, so we were our regional specialists plan a tailor-made itinerary just for you, you you are making less of an impact while there.
delighted to team up with Southeast Asia specialists Journeys Within can expect…
in 2017, and more recently, Asia experts Myths & Mountains in 2019, Award-winning ethical policy: Responsible travel has always been
giving us offices in California to better serve you, our American Unrivalled expertise: Our California and London offices are staffed an integral part of our company ethos and informs everything we do.
travelers. by experienced travelers, and every trip we run stems from their Where possible we use local accommodations (often guest houses or
This means we now have a team of well-traveled and knowledgeable passion for travel and extensive first-hand knowledge.When you call home stays) and eat in local non-chain restaurants. We also have our
U.S.-based experts ready to offer you in-depth advice on pretty our office, you will be able to chat with someone who knows the own Foundation which contributes to local causes all over the world
much any destination in the world, whether that be exploring rural region and is able to offer sound and practical advice. including READ Global and Journeys Within Our Community.
4 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 5
Eagle Festival
Mongolia
Imagine a 15 pound eagle, with its 6.5 foot wingspan and razor-sharp talons, swooping
down onto your arm. Oh, and you’re galloping at high speed across the Mongolian
steppe. Along with horse racing and archery contests, hunting with birds of prey is
just one of the many games that wow the crowds at the Golden Eagle Festival, held
deep in the Altai Mountains of Mongolia.
Every year, more than 70 eagle hunters head to a mountain outside of Ulgii at the
beginning of the hunting season, when the first snowfall settles and the prints of foxes
can be seen in the snow.
Tulga, one of our local guides in Mongolia, explains: “The hunters leave their eagles
outside the ger (Mongolian yurt) like you might park your car. And even though
people tend to enjoy the whole festival experience, the personal interaction with the
locals really seems to make an impression.”
Wild Frontiers runs a tour to the Eagle Festival every September, as well as trips
throughout the year to Mongolia. Go at any time and you’ll immerse yourself in one
of the planet’s most unforgettable cultures.
6 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 7
Mount Bromo
Indonesia
Dragons and volcanoes, centuries-old tribal step, from the sun on the reefs and the aroma
traditions and temples. Indonesia is at once of the food stalls in the markets of Yogyakarta,
ancient and immediate, and nowhere is this to the timeless beauty of the Borobudur and
more apparent than on the slopes of its Prambanan temple complexes. Then there’s
most iconic volcano. In this photograph we the wildlife.The chance to catch rare glimpses
see Mount Bromo at sunrise as another of swaggering Komodo dragons and elusive
day begins in Tengger Semeru National Park, sun bears, or wander forests bristling with
East Java. The sunrise trek on several Wild butterflies, birds and curious monkeys is one
Frontiers Indonesia itineraries takes us across to savour. This may be only one country but
the Sea of Sand and up to the rim of Mount it’s spread across some 17,500 islands, eight
Bromo. From here you can see some of the hundred thousand square miles and 300
most pristine landscapes on Earth. ethnic groups. In short, it is one of the most
Indonesia is a country that dazzles at every thrilling places on the planet.
Discover Indonesia on the new 14-day group tour Classic Java Adventure.
8 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 9
Bensley Flair
Bill Bensley has designed some of the most incredible hotels in the world, with his signature Give us a scoop! Are there any new or developing directions you’re
Bensley flair. We recently chatted to one of the most prolific, distinctive hotel designers in embarking on that you could give us an advance insight into?
We have a fantastic hotel in Siem Reap called Shinta Mani Bensley
the world. collection and another in the Cardamon National forest called Shinta Mani
Wild... Bensley Collection also. But the “by road” connection between
the two hotels is arduous at best. So I am buying a couple of vintage
Bill, you’ve had a long, distinguished career in developing some of But a real luxury is the ability to help others, as my Dad said, “Charity Airstream trailers (Upcyling!) to allow our more adventurous guests to
the world’s most fascinating hotels. When you were training as an begins at home.” make that journey in total unabashed luxury, stopping at the most remote
architect at Harvard, were you interested in hotel design, or did that temples, pre Angkor sites, natural wonders, that literally nobody bothers
come later? You are quoted as saying, “Nature is the ultimate designer.” How with these days. I will dub this adventure “Wild Wheels”, and send our
When I was at Harvard I could not afford to stay at Motel 6, so no, that does philosophy feature in your hotels? wild butlers and cooks on the road into secret places very few outsiders
came later. Just after graduation, I landed a job in Singapore and a week I don’t think of nature as “featuring” in our hotels. I think that if we have seen.
later I was on a plane to Bali to design a pool and the gardens for the Bali can build our hotels within a natural environment with minimal impact
Hyatt. I was smitten. to that environment, we have already done what many unfortunately One of my favorite things about Cambodia are the people. What is
fail to do. When I am working within a natural environment I know I the community aspect to Shinta Mani Wild?
What first drew you to Southeast Asia, and how did you decide to can only make things worse, because Mother Nature is the ultimate Our neighboring village is Tmor Rung. Seventy percent of our staff
make Bangkok your home? designer. No matter how beautiful my hotel is, it can never compete comes from this village and many had a history of poaching and logging.
On graduation day in 1984 at Harvard I asked my classmate, Lek Bunnag, with nature, so the key is damage control. This, I think, I have learnt to That is changing slowly now as they learn that extraction has limits, and
where he was bound. Singapore was his answer, and as that sounded so do very well over the past 35 years. conservation does not.
very exotic I asked if I could go too, and just on a lark, I did, and never left.
Which hotel would you recommend a first-time client stay at to get What are your thoughts on what’s next for Cambodia?
What defines ‘luxury’ these days, in your opinion? a true sense of the Bensley style? I pray that we can protect the Cardamons enough so that the endangered
Luxury is experiencing something for the very first time. Luxury is Shinta Mani Wild for sure. This hotel presses all the BENSLEY buttons. species can make a come back. Last week we spotted a Dhole (wild
comfortably enjoying a jungle environment all by yourself. Luxury is Conservation, wildlife protection, social responsibility, education of both endangered dog) on our new camera traps for the first time - that was
waking up to the roar of birds of the jungle. Luxury is being loved by dogs. guests and villagers, employment, and romantic story-telling! thrilling! I even got a photo.
10 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 11
20 for 2020
1 4
With new regions opening up, a wealth of celebrations and a focus
on responsible tourism, 2020 promises to be the most thrilling
1 Ukraine: Europe’s Wild Frontier 4 Patagonia: Catch a total solar eclipse
year of travel yet. Here are 20 places to set pulses racing.
The HBO TV series Chernobyl was the surprise hit of 2019. See the After our successful trip taking in 2019’s total solar eclipse, when we
site in real life and take in the scale of this terrible accident. Our new glimpsed the sun disappear over the Argentinian wilderness near
Undiscovered Europe tour combines three of Eastern Europe’s lesser- Mendoza, we’re excited to be returning to this continent once more for
visited countries – Ukraine, Moldova and Belarus – and includes a visit to this year’s cosmic event in Patagonia, with another total solar eclipse set
the Chernobyl site, as well as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Mir and to take place in December 2020. Come and join us.
Lviv and the traditional Hutsul people of the Carpathians.
5 Mongolia: Get in touch with nature
2 Pakistan: Now easier to get to
We saw bookings to Mongolia double last year compared with 2018.
We’ve been running trips to Pakistan since we were founded in 2002, Why? Well, it seems many visitors are increasingly seeking opportunities
and we have never seen tourism in a healthier state than it is right now.A to get back in touch with nature and discover wilderness destinations
convenient e-visa scheme make it look like this country is finally emerging and the people who live there, with Kyrgyzstan also doing well. Find out
from the travel wilderness. Read more about Pakistan on page 16. more about our Golden Eagle Festival tour in Mongolia on page 6.
3 Saudi Arabia opens up to tourists 6 Chad: Help celebrate a special day
Visiting Saudi Arabia for leisure purposes has been virtually impossible Chad gained independence from France in August 1960, meaning 2020
until now, but the country has just launched a visa program for tourists. marks the 60th anniversary of its freedom. It is the fifth-largest country
We ask our travellers every year which country they want us to introduce in Africa yet largely untouched by tourism.
next, and Saudi Arabia always appears near the top of the list. Highlights
include the Nabatean site of Mada’in Salah, featuring spectacular rock-cut 7 India: Spot a tiger
tombs similar in style to the Nabatean sites at Petra, the Red Sea town
of Jeddha, the capital Riyadh and the Hijaz Mountains. The chances of seeing tigers in India’s national parks are the highest they
have been in decades.The latest census, released in July 2019, shows tiger
numbers have risen from 2,226 in 2014 to 2,967 in 2018.
3 5
12
12 7 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 13
8 12 9
11 13 16 15
8 Oman & Jordan: Join the party 12 Nicaragua: Go now 16 Madagascar: Why it’s easier than ever to visit 19 The Galápagos Islands: Uncover the origin of
species – and UNESCO
Following the Arab Spring protests, Jordan and Oman, two of the safest and Nicaragua has had a tumultuous couple of years, with numerous protests Madagascar’s long-awaited airport extension is due to be unveiled in 2020,
easiest to travel countries in the Middle East, suffered a huge drop-off in against the government, but, after its congress approved an amnesty in which will greatly improve connections to a country famed for its unique In 2020, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization
visitors. Now, nearly a decade on, passenger numbers to both have finally June 2019, things have settled down. What better time to discover one of wildlife but isn’t on most travelers’ radars.To make things easier, Madagascar (UNESCO) UNESCO celebrates its 75th anniversary. No organization
surpassed pre-Arab Spring levels as the Middle East resurgence continues. Central America’s best-kept secrets? even introduced a new e-visa system in 2019. What are you waiting for? crops up on travelers’ lips quite so often, and its World Heritage sites are
Don’t miss out. usually the first things you look for when landing in a new country. The
13 Nepal: Visit somewhere that deserves your help 17 Kazakhstan: Enjoy an offbeat adventure Galápagos Islands were among the first batch of inscribed sites on a list
9 Armenia: Hiking the rising star that currently now extends to over 1,500 locations across the world, so
After 2015’s earthquake, Nepal was not only devastated, with many trails Those who want wilderness and adventure activities such as rafting, hiking why not pay it a visit yourself to see why this iconic wildlife destination is
Georgia has been the star of the Caucasus in recent years, but travellers and villages simply wiped from the mountains, it also suffered a catastrophic and cycling are increasingly looking to Kazakhstan. Despite all this, it remains so worth protecting.
are increasingly discovering the delights of one of its neighbours, Armenia. drop in visitors, on which it relies. Numbers have only recently recovered, something of a Silk Road secret, and while Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan have
20 Argentina: Head where your money
Small enough to explore in a week, this is an ideal destination for both but now the government of Nepal is aiming to attract two million visitors been receiving all the attention, more intrepid travellers are discovering the
hikers and culture lovers. Get the inside scoop about this amazing country in 2020. If anywhere deserves your money, it’s the communities of Nepal. delights of the forgotten ‘Stan. Read more about it on p32. goes further
on pg. 32.
14 Peru: Mark the founding of a colonial beauty 18 Albania: Visit the rising star of the Balkans Sometimes exchange rates work in our favor. With the Argentinian peso
10 Uzbekistan under performing, this is one of those times. It’s bad news for the local
The Peruvian city of Arequipa was founded on August 15, 1540 by Spanish Montenegro has been receiving a lot of press recently, but the whole economy, but good news for visitors, and any money you spend will help
The Silk Road is big news right now, and Uzbekistan is the ultimate Silk conquistador Garcí Manuel de Carbajal, meaning the city will celebrate its of the Balkans is on the rise, with our bookings for Albania up 15% for ease the financial woes of locals. Perhaps combine it with the next solar
Road destination, with the glittering architecture of Samarkand, Khiva and 480th birthday in 2020. Known as the ‘White City’, owing to the volcanic 2020 compared with the previous year. We’re not surprised. Spectacular eclipse, see pg. 42 for details.
Bukhara. Uzbekistan features on several of our tours, including Cities of the rock used in much of its buildings, it is famous for its colonial architecture, mountains, canyons and rivers as well as sparkling coastline, Greek
Silk Road. Think you know your ’Stans? Take our quiz on p32. including the beautiful Santa Catalina Convent, set against a backdrop of and Roman ruins, Ottoman citadels and rural hospitality make it a
the volcano El Misti. powerful draw.
11 Namibia: Pay your birthday respects
15 Lebanon: You asked for it!
In March 2020, Namibia celebrates 30 years of independence from South
Africa. The country is one of the best places in Africa for a self-drive We have introduced a new group tour of Lebanon in response to demand
holiday, letting you explore some truly wild sights under your own steam. from many of you. Lebanon has often been a victim of geopolitics, owing
It also offers excellent game viewing, particularly in Etosha National Park, to its location bordering Syria and Israel. However, the country is going
and don’t miss out on seeing one of the world’s natural wonders at the through a period of relative calm. Lebanon was also the 100th country
towering sand dunes of Sossusvlei. Wild Frontiers’ founder Jonny Bealby visited. Read about his trip on pg. 40. 18 20
14 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 15
The written
World ON THE PLAIN OF SNAKES
What We’ve Brought Home
Jonny Bealby, founder of Wild Frontiers
Paul Theroux Half a kilo of caviar, Iran
The undeniable master of the travelogue (The
Great Railway Bazaar and The Mosquito Coast) I once bought half a kilo of caviar on the Caspian Sea for $20. Fisherman were spooning it
returns to Mexico to investigate the ‘beautiful and directly from the sturgeon into glass jars. I had no idea that it was worth around $1,500!
troubled heart’ of the country. Theroux travels It actually came in quite useful when crossing some of the land borders on the way home,
from the border town of Nogales, through the particularly Georgia where the border guards hadn’t been paid for months. By the time I
desert, and finds humanity among the conflict. got home, I had around a quarter of a kilo left, which went down very well with my family
at Christmas time.
WHERE THE WILD COOKS GO
Cerys Matthews
Follow the broadcaster, musician and foodie Marc Leaderman, Product & Operations Director
Cerys Matthews around the world as she collects Dogon door, Mali
poems, proverbs, music and more than 100
recipes. It is described as a ‘folk cookbook’, and I bought the door from a chieftain in a small village along Mali’s stunning Bandiagara
the pages spring alive with stories alongside food, Escarpment back in 2002, when the whole area was much safer than it is now. I was drawn to
from Indian dahl to Welsh cakes. it by the fact that the carvings tell the creation story of the Dogon people, in much the same
way that frescoes in medieval churches narrate tales from the Old Testament. In addition,
UNDERLAND the doors enabled women to lock their prized possessions (jewellery, metalware, food) away
THE NEW Robert Macfarlane from their partners, in the enlightened belief that a husband was not automatically entitled
OUTSIDERS
A Creative Life Outdoors Underland, as the name suggests, takes us on a to class his wife’s possessions as his own. This tradition dates back over 1,000 years and for
journey to the other side, the world beneath our a long time gave Dogon women more rights than most Western women. It also looks really
feet. Macfarlane, one of the most poetic nature nice on my wall.
writers of our time, visits the depths of Greenland’s
glaciers, discovers Bronze Age burial sites, while
always considering the human footprint. Hayley Cleeter, Marketing Executive
Sheep’s bones, Mongolia
NORTH KOREA JOURNAL
Michael Palin The ankle bones (or shagai) of goats or sheep are used for fortune-telling in Mongolia. The
North Korea Journal is Palin’s daily diary and offers shagai are thrown on the ground, and predictions are made depending on which side up they
an insight into the Democratic People’s Republic land – the four different sides of the bone are known as horse, camel, sheep or goat. As well
of Korea. It takes us beyond the sanctioned sights as telling your fortune, the bones are used in a number of games, where they function as
and gets to know the people behind the wall, all either dice or marbles. A game involving throwing shagai is even played at the World Nomad
with Palin’s affable charm. Games and the Naadam Festival. Many Mongolians carry shagai around in a little pouch, and
they make for an unusual souvenir.
THE NEW OUTSIDERS
‘A Creative Life Outdoors’
This handsome volume from Gestalten visits Daniel Neilson, Wild Editor
unexpected locations from Iceland to Patagonia, Kashaka, Ghana
speaking to ‘maverick spirits’ who find solutions
to help protect and preserve the landscapes. This In the Arts Market in Accra, Ghana, a toothless guy caught my attention by making mesmeric
book is an inspiring, life-affirming read, as well as percussive sounds using a kashaka.This musical instrument is made out of two small gourds
looking great on your coffee table. filled with dried beans and linked by a piece of string.You hold one in the upturned palm of
your hand, between your forefinger and index finger, and then swing the other one around
SIDETRACKED your thumb, knocking them together and shaking them. It’s not easy, but after a half-hour
This travel and adventure journal, released three lesson and a few days’ practice in my hotel room, I got the hang of it. They now sit on the
times a year, is rooted in inspirational journeys desk in my home office, where I can often be found procrastinating by bashing the kashaka
to some of the most extreme and fascinating together. The kids like to annoy me with them, too.
places anywhere, whether that’s deep in the
ocean or with a remote community. It has built
a reputation for breathtaking photography and
powerful storytelling.
16 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 17
Frontiers
Sustainable
Going Carbon Neutral in 2021
Wild Frontiers has automatically off-set staff and clients’ international
flights, when booked through us, for almost 15 years.We were among the
first UK-based tour operators to implement the initiative back in 2005
License to Drive
and have since contributed more than $64,000 to renewable energy
projects, including wind power in India and hydropower in China. Anna Baldwin joins the women of the Pink City
Rickshaw Company for an insightful tour around
Stepping up our commitment to the environment and the destinations
we visit, where more vulnerable communities will be most impacted by Jaipur’s old town
climate change, our goal is to operate as a carbon neutral company by
2021.
It was sunrise when I met a lovely lady called Jyoti and jumped into her immaculate
Through measuring, reducing and offsetting carbon emissions, both in the pink rickshaw for a two-hour tour of Jaipur’s backstreets.We were aiming to ‘Wake
air and on the ground, we realise we have much to do to achieve this. Up with Jaipur’ and see the city emerge from its slumber. Jyoti is with the Pink City
Rickshaw Company, an initiative set up by ACCESS Development Services, a not-
To help reach our carbon neutral target we are currently working with for-profit organisation aimed at providing innovative employment opportunities for
international consultancy and project developer, EcoAct, to develop our women from low-income households. It is aiming to train more than 200 women
carbon footprint management plan. to take visitors around Jaipur in their electric rickshaws.
In the meantime, as of January 2020, we are increasing our contributions It’s a beautiful, cool morning as we set off for the old city, and the slower pace and
to not only automatically off-set flights, but to off-set 1.5 tonnes of carbon quieter streets make a welcome change from the sweltering chaos of rush hour.
per passenger for emissions generated on the ground while on tour. First, we head for the 18th-century Vaishnava Govind Dev Ji temple, which lies
within the City Palace grounds. Surrounded by pigeons, monkeys and cows, we
wander inside, finding it busy with worshippers going about their daily routine of
prayer before heading to work. We next drink chai from a street stall and find a
stunning little temple among the courtyards and houses of a small community.
Water Wise These are just the kind of experiences that I love; ones which allow you to really see
a country by better understanding its culture and appreciating simple daily routines.
It was also a chance to get to know Jyoti. She previously polished gemstones for
Since teaming up with Water-to-Go, Wild Frontiers staff, tour leaders a living and, as a widow, had struggled to support her two sons. Now she’s been
and clients have saved thousands of throw away plastic bottles by driving with the Pink City Rickshaw Company for two years and is happy with the
choosing to use refillable, filtered water bottles. Last year we made opportunity it has given her.
the decision to stop providing bottled water as a part of our group
tours, and instead offer subsidised Water-To-Go bottles, which have a Jyoti, like the other ladies in the company, has been taught basic English skills to
filtration system that eliminates 99.9% of microbiological contaminants provide her clients with facts. Her pride is palpable. These tours offer the perfect
from any non-salt water source in the world and provide clean, safe opportunity to respectfully observe daily life while supporting an eco-friendly
water. Here are some stats on the success so far: form of tourism. It strives to empower women and offer visitors a greater
understanding of how tourism can have a positive impact on local communities.
1 million plastic bottles are bought
Inspired by this fantastic project, the Wild Frontiers Foundation raised just over
around the world every minute. $5,000 at our annual Evening of Adventure, in October, to purchase two new
electric rickshaws and train four more local ladies to become driver/guides for the
Since we launched our campaign against single-use plastic bottles in Pink City Rickshaw Company. The new rickshaws are set to hit the backstreets of
2018, Wild Frontiers’ clients have purchased over 700 filtered water Jaipur in February.
bottles.
Visit our foundation website for more information about the projects we are proud
Based on each filtered bottle saving 4 x 500ml plastic bottles a day to support www.wildfrontiersfoundation.org
over an average tour of 12 days, that adds up to an estimated waste
reduction of over 33,000 single-used plastic bottles.
Thanks to everyone who has got on board with the project by using a
Water-to-Go bottle, and here’s to reducing more plastic usage in 2020.
18 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 19PAKISTAN
The Poetry of the
Hindu Kush
Negative headlines mean few travelers make it to the valleys and villages of
northern Pakistan, but those that do will find an unforgettable
land and a warm welcome
Emma Thomson
20 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 21Award-winning writer Emma IT’S FESTIVAL TIME
Thomson journeys to one We move on to the Hunza Valley, birthplace of our blue-eyed guide JOINING THE FAMILY
Attaullah Khan. We coil through the mountains, passing a procession On our last day in the village, I go for a walk, meandering past
of Wild Frontiers’ favourite of Bedford trucks bedecked in glitz like a bevy of carnival performers. homes made of stacked logs and mud until it’s just the broiling
destinations. The vast gorge is crowned with snowy peaks and its river edges spiked river to my left and the snow-dappled mountains ahead. Two
with juniper, pine and cedar. Attaullah wastes no time in taking us to try teenage girls come strolling down the path toward me, their
the local specialities. The men ferry out platters of chapshuro – “Hunza skirts skimming the dust. I nod and smile, expecting them to carry
E
vening is snatching the light from the valley as we near the pizza,” grins Attaullah – biting into the thick chapatti breads filled with on past me. But the youngest turns to me and says: “The rain
town of Ayun. We pass a woman sitting on her haunches, a mince, coriander and peppers. Next comes burus barikutz, thin squares in Spain falls mainly on the plain.” I break into laughter and she
shaggy golden-haired dog at her side. They gaze at the gorge of chapatti filled with cow cheese, coriander, apricot oil and glasses of beams. “Teach us more of these,” she says.
and goats below, her red sari and the hound’s fur both ruffled by apricot juice. The region has 32 varieties of apricot – “One type for Her name is Gul Naz and her friend is Gul Sahar. She slips her
the breeze. Barefoot men are performing their prostrations on a each tooth,” laughs Attaullah. hand into mine and leads me past a gaggle of mothers nursing
concrete slab, the foundations of an unfinished shop projecting out Back on the road, we head for the Kalasha Valleys. Unlike the rest babies on their laps, and ducks through the doorway of her home.
into the void. of Pakistan, which is predominately Muslim, the Kalash are pagan. We’d The interior is cool and dark, the floor compacted mud, and the
A little further on, we pull over to take photos of the sunset. I come during Chilam Joshi – the Kalash spring festival, when they pray for smile from her mother, Jamsher, genuine.
notice a teenage boy standing by the barrier and wander over. the safety of their fields and animals. They worship many gods, not one. Jamsher signals for me to sit on a low wooden stool, so my
“As-Salaam-Alaikum,” I smile. “If it’s time to bring spring and honeybees, we pray to Mandaw with knees are hunkered up to my chest, and the girls sit either side of
“Hello,” he replies. His name is Riaz and together we watch the offerings of cheese and milk,” explains my homestay host Saifullah Jan as me. She pours a cup of pale green tea from the kettle on the log
sun sink. we pace the dirt streets.“It’s Jestak who grants babies, but our main spirit stove and proffers it into my hands.
I’d joined Wild Frontier’s Hindu Kush Adventure – chosen as one is Sajigol – he’s represented as a horse,” he continues, leading me into a Gul Naz’s uncle, Sarawd Shah, strolls in, cigarette billowing.
of the ‘Top 50 Tours of a Lifetime’ by National Geographic – to shrine in the centre of the village. He looks surprised to see me, but takes my hand and pumps
uncover the real Pakistan. Bad news dominates headlines about the A shaft of light spears the darkness, illuminating intricately carved it warmly up and down. He speaks good English, and together
country and can skew our perception. That’s not to downplay its pillars and stick-figure horses drawn on the walls using soot from he and Gul Naz embark on giving me a Kalash language lesson.
history of terrorism and the Taliban, but it’s also not the full picture. the fire. “Akawai ché pimde – I’m drinking green tea,” they say, raising the
I wanted to see the reality for myself. The morning of the festival dawns bright and blue, and energy crackles delicate cup and smiling at my tongue-tied attempts to copy them.
“People need to make their own decisions about the world, not through the valley. Over breakfast, we watch a man shouldering sacks An hour or so later, Attaullah pops his head through the door:
just be told by the FCO,” reasons Maqsood Ul Mulk, who owns a along a narrow trail on the opposite side of the river. “Ah, there you are,” he says. “Time to go, I’m afraid.”
guesthouse above Ayun. “It’s filled with snow from six kilometres away,” says Attaullah. “He’ll I had wanted to spend real time with people during this trip to
The heady scent of roses surrounds us as we lie on the make snow cones for the kids later, with a fruit topping!” Pakistan; to lift the veil and see beyond the headlines. The hours
cool green grass of his beloved garden. He’s worked with I ask Gulistan, Saifullah’s daughter, to plait my hair into the three I spent with Maqsood, Saifullah, Gulistan, Gul Naz and Attaullah
Michael Palin – “A very easy person to travel with,” he relates braids all Kalash women wear. She then fetches one of her spare black offered me so much more. I know this trip won’t be my last, so to
– and is believed to have family links to Tamerlane, the great phiran dresses, pulls it over my head and sets to wrapping the pat’i – a Pakistan I say what Gul Naz taught me: “A tai gen pashim – I look
medieval conqueror. thick woven belt – around my waist. In a final flourish, she balances a forward to seeing you again.”
His willow trees and rose bushes frame the snow-dusted peaks heavily beaded headdress on my freshly tied plaits and nods approval. I’m
of the Hindu Kush mountain range – views that’ll rouse the poet in festival ready.
you. They stirred Kipling to pen both ‘The Ballad of East and West’ We pace up a steep coil of steps to a platform on a hilltop where trios
and ‘The Ballad of the King’s Mercy’. But we can’t romanticise too of women are spinning in circles to the fast beat of a drum.The men and Emma Thomson travelled on our 15-day
much.Travelling here contravenes four out of nine ‘against all’ and ‘all boys are wearing roses tucked behind their ears “as a sign of jolliness and Hindu Kush Adventure group tour which has
but essential’ travel warnings issued by the UK Foreign Office, but good mood”, explains Gulistan. The kids suck sherbet and fire toy water departures in May, September and October
specialist travel insurance is available and there are also large areas guns at each other. I join the throng. Wrapping my arms around the
and costs $3,578 per person.
that are safe, too. Maqsood is level-headed about it:“All that you hear waists of two other women, we spin like whirling tops, our embroidered
is not all that is happening,” he reasons. skirts a rainbow blur.
BEST BOOKS ABOUT PAKISTAN
FLASHMAN AND THE MOUNTAIN A SHORT WALK IN THE WHERE MEN AND MOUNTAINS MEET FOR A PAGAN SONG
OF LIGHT – George MacDonald Fraser HINDU KUSH – Eric Newby – John Keay – Jonny Bealby
If you are a fan of the dastardly antihero Eric Newby’s classic tale of travelling It was the Great Game – that epic 19th Well, if I can’t shout about my own
Flashman, then you’ve probably already through Iran and into the Afghan century war of attrition, fought out between book, who will? Seriously, if you
read this. If you haven’t, you must! Here province of Nuristan to scale the Czarist Russia and Imperial Britain for are considering traveling with Wild
Flashman cosies up to the Sikh rulers 20,000ft Mir Samir – after only a control of Central Asia – that first piqued my Frontiers to northern Pakistan, I do
of Lahore in and around the Anglo-Sikh week’s training in Wales – is wonderful. interest in this region. To read of young men recommend you read my second
wars of the 1840s. MacDonald Fraser was Droll, unpretentious and charmingly carrying out deeds of extreme bravery and book, a journey through India, Pakistan
a stickler for historic accuracy making self-deprecating, I read it for the first cunning to map the passes of high Asia and and Afghanistan, as you will visit some
this is a light-hearted way to learn about time before I personally travelled create alliances with those that ruled there, of the places described and meet many
By Jonny Bealby
this period, the court of Ranjit Singh, his through Nuristan and it was fascinating was riveting and John Keay’s thoroughly of the characters in it. You’ll also be
intoxicating wife, princess Jind Kuar, Lahore to see how things had changed in the readable account is a must for anyone with earning me £1.30 in royalties!
and the famous diamond, the Koh-I-Noor. 40 years between our journeys. an interest in northern Pakistan.
22 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 23INDIA
A Journey Through India
A photo story by Wild Frontiers’ 1 2
Product Manager Anna Baldwin
01: Iranian cafes, Mumbai morning before distribution.There are several 06: Behind the scenes in Bollywood, Mumbai
This is Mr. Farokh, the owner of the legendary different newspapers, in several different I was lucky enough to visit one of the main
Kyani & Co Cafe, believed to be the oldest languages, and although the majority of the hubs for film and TV production in Bollywood,
remaining Iranian cafe in Mumbai. In the 19th men are illiterate, they manage to sort the located in the heart of Mumbai. On arrival at
and 20th centuries these coffee houses were newspapers by simply recognising the script, the studios I was welcomed on set, where cast 3 4
set up by Zoroastrian migrants from Iran, and before stacking them up on motorbikes and and crew were working away to get those
where there were once hundreds spread across bicycles to be distributed around the city as crucial shots in before the end of the day.
the city, now less than ten remain. Serving up day breaks. From meeting costume designers and actors,
some of the city’s best Parsi food, Kyani has to learning some of the famous dances, going
been running since 1904 and has been handed 04: Hidden havelis, Udaipur behind the scenes gave me a unique insight into
down through the generations. Discovering the heritage and history of one of India’s most colourful and important
Udaipur’s hidden haveils is a highlight of industries.
02: Samartha Vyayam Mandir Physical any visit to Rajasthan. This is an example of
Education Centre, Mumbai Udaipur’s hidden gems, a secret 300-year-old 07: Wedding traditions, Jaipur
As the sun rose over Mumbai, I visited Shree haveli set in the middle of the labyrinth of I met these beautiful ladies this morning who
Samartha Vyayam Mandir, a physical education alleyways and backstreets of Old Udaipur. invited me to join them as a puja was being
institution located in the heart of Shivaji Park. I was taken here on a special heritage walk performed in one of their homes. Two of the
For 73 years this small institution has worked through the old town, and inside this particular ladies had recently got married so they were all
relentlessly to provide affordable and accessible haveli was an incredible room filled with old wishing for good health and success for their
training for young aspiring athletes, and so paintings and artefacts, with open windows, new husbands, and would repeat this every day 5 6
far has produced more than 1000 national curtains billowing and offering glimpses of the for the next 14 days.
champions and over 30 of these have gone on streets below.
to represent the country in different sports. 08/09: Slowly down the Ganges, Varanasi
As I was walking into the institute I caught this 05: Holi aftermath, Jaipur Each evening there are ceremonies along the
little guy outside practicing ‘Pole Mallakhamb’, On another of the very special heritage walks holiest of rivers for Hindus, the Ganges. Every
an ancient art of making the body quick, supple, in Jaipur we set off at sunrise to explore the evening at sunset, elaborate ceremonies are
agile and healthy, with the use of a simple pole. old town on foot, discovering havelis and conducted by pandits wearing saffron robes,
temples where people were going about their consisting of a huge amount of fire and incense
03: Newspaper sorters, Mumbai daily routines. One such haveli had 14 separate waving, making for an incredible assault on the
Exploring Mumbai just before dawn is a courtyards, some housing local shops, others senses. You can also take a rowing boat along
truly magical way to see this city come alive. home to multiple families who owned an the Ganges at this time and perform your
These are the newspaper sorters, who come incredible variety of hidden treasures. Holi had own puja by releasing a floating candle onto
together throughout the city to sort through taken place the day before and this is one of my the river.
thousands of different newspapers every favourite images from the whole trip.
7 8 9
24 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 2510: Early morning markets, Mumbai 13: Private viewpoint of the Jewel
Food is a huge part of India’s appeal, and as well of the World
as wandering Mumbai’s markets, you can join a Up at sunrise we set off by bicycle along the
cookery class or simply eat at one of the city’s Yamuna River until we reached an abandoned
many superb restaurants. tannery. Not another soul in sight we climbed
up to this viewpoint where we were welcomed
11: Miniature painting, Udaipur with 360-degree views across to the Taj Mahal
In Udaipur’s backstreets you can find artisans of and the surrounding countryside.
all kinds, including a miniature painter who here
left me with a wonderful temporary memento. 14: Children play cricket in the
after attempting to teach me his unique skill. backstreets of Varanasi
Cricket is India’s passion, and this is a scene
10 11 12: Sufi devotees at Nizamuddin which you can find in nearly every city through-
Dargarh, Delhi out the country.
Delhi’s colourful neighbourhood of Nizamuddin
attracts hundreds of devotees a day who come 15: Wedding shoot, Udaipur All of these experiences and more can be
to pay their respects to Hazrat Nizamuddin Udaipur is a popular place to have wedding arranged on a tailor-made tour to India. Call
Auliya, one of the world’s most renowned Sufi photos taken, with Lake Pichola providing one 877 7075435 to speak to an expert.
saints. Enjoy the fragrances of rose petals and of the world’s most romantic backdrops.
incense mixed with the sounds of Qawwali, a
form of music performed by Sufis with the aim
of inspiring religious devotion.
K AT E ’ S 1. Gwalior
I loved Gwalior, and the Usha Kiwan Palace where we stayed is particularly good – friendly, beautiful
TO P
rooms, tranquil gardens, charming, helpful staff, and the food was wonderful thanks to its incredibly
12 13 dedicated chef.The city’s fort is the main attraction and doesn’t disappoint, but I loved Gwailor itself. It
is very peaceful and laid-back compared to many other cities in India, and the chai in the market was
FOUR
the best I’ve had anywhere.
2. Cholle bhature
I have now become a dedicated fan of cholle bhature, a delicious mix of chickpea masala curry and fried
bread. I also now know that if you want the very best samosas or gulab jamun (sticky dough balls), you
head for Puran – a street stall that has been going for 50 years in the town of Obaidullaganj.
3. Bhopal and the Tribal Museum
Bhopal was a real surprise. I loved the market and the whole vibe of the town. Two things really stood
out here: firstly, our young guide, Ajay, was outstanding. He understood what was of interest to me,
added things to the itinerary that he felt I shouldn’t miss and was full of knowledge and enthusiasm for
all the places that we visited together. He persuaded me to go to the other thing that stood out: the
Tribal Museum. This reveals the tribal history of the region and is not somewhere that I would have
ordinarily chosen to go, but it is probably the best museum that I have ever been to.
4. Reni Pani Lodge and two-day trek
Reni Pani Lodge was faultless. Aly was a delightful host, but all the staff there are such knowledgeable
and passionate naturalists. The cottages here are beautifully designed, and I was also shown the new
‘tents’ that they have erected around a water hole. During my two game drives I got an excellent
sighting of a sloth bear. But it was the two-day guided trek that was truly special. We started at the
TV presenter and hill station of Pachmarhi and walked 13 kilometres on the first day. I saw plenty of birds, wild pigs and
naturalist Kate barking deer, as well as the tracks of tigers and sloth bears. We reached our campsite at 4.30pm and
found an unbelievably beautiful setting alongside a river. In the evening we sat around the fire and had an
Humble traveled to uninterrupted view of the stars and the moon – only the occasional owl call broke the silence.The walk
the next day was 16 kilometres, but almost entirely on the flat. There were a few easy river crossings
Central India with Wild and beautiful pools in which we swam.
Frontiers and picks her
I would go back to India in a heartbeat. The amazing guides and drivers made the entire trip go
14 15 top experiences incredibly smoothly and helped us get under the skin of this wonderful, complex country.
26 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 27CAMBODIA
Return of the
Cambodian Riviera
Back in the mid-20th century, Cambodia’s southwest coast greeted the bold and
the beautiful alike. Now, after decades in the wilderness, its Riviera has
rediscovered its sparkle…
Written by Stanley Stewart
28 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 29Stanley Stewart, award-winning travel writer, reports
on the return of the Cambodian Riviera
B
efore the horrors of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, and long its back to the green mountains of its eponymous National Park.
before the economic might of 21st century China, there was Once the St Tropez of the Cambodian coast, it was here that I
another Cambodia. It embodied all the old romantic ideas found the wonderful Knai Bang Chatt, Kep’s premier hotel, its
about Indochina – delicate, aloof, beautiful, spiritual. ‘An idyllic, antique soft suburban lawns stretching, past the infinity pool and the
land unsullied by the brutalities of the modern world,’ wrote William canopied restaurant terrace, to the sea.
Shawcross about the Cambodia of the 1950’s and 60’s in his book Knai Bang Chatt is composed of striking modernist villas.
Sideshow, ‘a place of bucolic plenty, Buddhist serenity, and neutralist Influenced by the Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier, this style
peace.’ came to be known in the 1960s as New Khmer architecture, all
In those distant days, Cambodia had a riviera. The pretty coast angular lines and pastel colours, like some backdrop from the TV
of the Gulf of Thailand, only a couple of hours by train from the show Mad Men. An oasis of old-fashioned luxury on this coast,
capital Phnom Penh, was a favourite resort of expatriates and this remarkable hotel is also a leading model of sustainability,
the Khmer middle classes, who came down by rail to swim, to meeting stringent international certifications for everything
sunbathe, to mess about in boats, and to eat the famous mud from recycling to employment practices, to organic produce.
crabs. Some built villas and stayed the whole summer. Prince I spent three happy days in Kep. I explored the trails of the
Sihanouk had two royal residences on the coast, one in Kep and National Park, drank cocktails at the Sailing Club and dined on
the other in Sihanoukville, and when Jackie Onassis came to visit crab straight from the fishermen’s boats in seaside restaurants. I
after the assassination of her husband, it was to the latter, after rented a scooter and set off along the shore road beneath tilting
the obligatory visit to the temples of Angkor, that he brought palm trees, past the beach where you can rent hammocks by the
her to admire the moonlight on the South China Sea. hour, past monks with their alms bowls, past monkeys grooming
For too long, travel to Cambodia has been dominated by the one another on the sea walls, and children with bamboo poles
great temples of Angkor. It is understandable – they are stunning. trying to fell ripe mangos. One day I made the excursion to the
But there is a Cambodia beyond the precincts of these crumbling wonderful beaches of Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay), where you can
ruins. One of the most delightful destinations after the temples, as take a thatched hut for the night to commune with the moonlit
the Prince knew, is the old Riviera. And after decades of neglect, it washed sea.
is now coming back to life.
A SHORE THING
GOOD WITH THE BAD But the real stars of this coast are the new luxury resorts, set on
The bad news for the Riviera’s revival is the emergence of private off-shore islands. The pioneer here is Song Saa, opened
Chinese tourism. Sihanoukville, where Jackie and the Prince seven years ago by an enterprising Australian couple based in
shared cocktails, is now a vast building site where Chinese com- Phnom Penh who were first to realise the beauty of this coast.
panies are erecting high-rise hotels and casinos at a breathtaking I loved its shabby-chic vibe of reclaimed materials and found
pace. Among the dust and the trucks, Chinese labourers have objects, like a stylish tribute to the local fishing villages, and
brought gambling, prostitution, crime and public drunkenness to its dedicated involvement in protecting the marine environment
this coastal town. and improving the lives of villagers on neighbouring islands.
The good news is that this disorder is confined to Sihanoukville. Just last year it has been joined by two international brands,
Just down the coast is Kampot, a delightful seaside town, its both of which have sought similar sanctuary on discreet
streets lined with traditional two-storey shophouses with shut- private islands – Six Senses on Krabey Island and Alila Villas
tered balconies. An expatriate scene has developed in its chilled on Koh Russey. Barely ten minutes from the mainland, both
ambience, with a host of good restaurants, cafés and guesthouses. are outstanding properties with an admirable commitment to
Upstream, where jungle pushes down to pale sandbanks, and keeping their environmental footprint light as well as uplifting
thatched villages and white pagodas interrupt the paddy fields, local life through conservation and employment.
guesthouses with river decks offer canoes for rent to explore Alila Villas – all stunning modernist architecture and
the labyrinth of green tributaries. Kampot feels like the escape elegant dining – sits on one of the best beaches on the
route you might have been looking for. It’s a place to abandon Riviera. At Six Senses, the luxurious villas are more
ambitions and entanglements; the kind of remote Asian town entwined with their island jungle. I went for cocktails in the
that people might dream of running away to. In the evenings bar – the mint freshly picked from the herb garden – and grazed
here, along the river, there is some fragrant hint of the old a wonderful spread of charcuterie, then sat down to a dinner
Cambodian Riviera. of sashimi of local fish. Later in my villa, framed by jungle trees,
Another forty minutes along the old coast, past stilt houses I sank into my private plunge pool and watched the moon rise
of grey weathered woods, and bullock carts lumbering among between distant islands. The Cambodian Riviera is back, and it is
Wild Frontiers offers custom holidays in the
the antique buses, brings you to the seaside town of Kep, with better than ever. Cambodian Riviera and throughout Cambodia and
South East Asia.Visit our website for details.
30 www.wildfrontierstravel.com | 1-877-707-5435 31You can also read
