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April 2021 yours forever - download me please e-edition utter Alan Committie (virtually) nonsense* * Soaring in the Midlands, scaling rocks in the Cederberg + Could a Cape Town octopus win an Oscar?
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her u s Teac p Octo My View from ro THE TOP D iamonds are forever, but it’s Octopussy who has stolen our hearts. No, nothing to do with 007. The heart-stealer in question is the octopus who became a Netflix sensation last year. She’s the (spoiler alert) posthumous star of a documentary that happens to be South Africa’s one shot at winning an Oscar this month. In the film, the timid, tiny octopus spends most of her short life minding her own business, fending off hungry pyjama sharks, and figuring out ways of using her eight limbs and ballerina- supple body to achieve breathtaking feats of engineering. She builds temporary houses out of shells, camouflages herself against rocks and scurries into dark crevices in the blink of an eye. In one scene, she plays a game of tag with a school of fishes; in another, she pretends to be an old lady carrying her groceries and walks along the ocean floor on two legs. It’s mesmerising stuff. Sharp as she was, she was also quite shy, but overcame her natural fear of humans to forge a friendship with a guy named Craig Foster. In the movie’s most Meryl Streep-worthy scene, this cautious mollusc reaches out her tentacles of friendship and not only makes physical contact with Foster (who, crazily, dives each day without a wetsuit), but manages to touch the hearts of just about anyone watching. Without saying a word – no ‘speak to my agent’ diva antics – she soon has an award- winning film crew observing her every move, recording her vast repertoire of curious behaviours. And, ultimately, she causes Foster himself to emotionally crack up as he recounts his tender relationship with her. The movie’s called My Octopus Teacher and has managed to not only make the entire world sit up and take notice of octopus-kind, but has drawn attention to one of South Africa’s lesser- known wonders: the amazing kelp forest that bounds our southern coastline. Foster’s friend is probably the best marketing the frigid waters of Cape Town have ever had; even if you’re poep- scared of the cold, you might want to jet off to Cape Town, squeeze your lockdown bod into a wetsuit and go see if you can befriend some of the Cape’s shy residents. Here’s to our very own Octopussy bringing that Oscar home to Mzansi – either way, she’s made South Africa proud. @iflykulula @iflykulula @kulula kulula.com kulula.com kulula.com APRIL 2021 1
April 2021 yours forever - download me please e-edition utter Alan Committie nonsense* (virtually) All the web addresses you see in this magazine are clickable. Just hover your cursor over the URL and click. * Soaring in the Midlands, scaling rocks in the Cederberg + Could a Cape Town octopus win an Oscar? PUBLISHED BY an Contents PICASSO HEADLINE Me l 21 et A a proud division of Arena Holdings Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Hillside Road), APRIL 2021 Parktown, Johannesburg 2193 PO Box 12500, Mill Street, Cape Town, 8010 EDITORIAL Editor Keith Bain Copy Editor Nicci Collier Content Manager Raina Julies – rainaj@picasso.co.za Content Co-ordinator Vanessa Payne ART Head of Design Studio Jayne Macé-Ferguson Senior Designer Mfundo Archie Ndzo 31 35 Production Editor Shamiela Brenner Cover Photographer/Retouching Sven Kristian EXPERIENCE SALES 7 THE SOCIAL SPACE Project Manager Merryl Klein – Take care out there. merrylk@picasso.co.za, +27 82 895 7260 Sales Consultants Stephen Crawford, Randall Grace, 11 AND THE OSCAR GOES TO… Andre Potgieter, Richard White The bald statues are being handed out this month. Advertising co-ordinator Johan Labuschagne EXPLORE management 17 REST ASSURED Business Manager Lodewyk van der Walt – It’ll always be the Friendly City. lodewykv@picasso.co.za 23 SCHOOL OF ROCK 15 Management Accountant Deidre Musha General Manager, Magazines Jocelyne Bayer Hang on! 31 SAFARI WITH A TWIST Kulula.com There’s more to it than a Big Five checklist. Chief Executive Officer Comair Ltd Glenn Orsmond Executive Manager Sales and Marketing, kulula.com 35 MIDWAY TO HEAVEN Brian Kitchin From flying to feasting in the KZN Midlands. Brand Communictions Manager, kulula.com Luane Lavery DISCOVER 42 ENOUGH IS ENOUGH Comair Limited What you eat can change the future. 1 Marignane Drive, Bonaero Park, Kempton Park, 1619 Tel: 011 921 0111 | kulula.com | contact centre: 45 HOME AND AWAY 0861 KULULA (585852) Innovations, new-fangled gadgets and 42 creative footwear. Copyright: No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent of the publisher. The publisher is not responsible for unsolicited material. khuluma is published monthly by Picasso Headline. 53 A FEW GOOD BOOKS The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Picasso Headline, kulula Haunted histories, political monsters, and or Arena Holdings. All advertisements/advertorials and promotions have been paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publisher. While a high-octane crime thriller. every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither kulula, nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors, chang or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise therefrom. We reserve limate e the right to edit interviews for layout purposes. c t moo o Say 4 April 2021 7 kulula.com
small airport, BIG benefits 4 reasons why you should be flying through Lanseria International Airport SLOW XS Lounge ample convenient parking Unwind and recharge at the SLOW XS Lounge just Ample parking which is easily accessible from the before taking to the skies. Enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi, terminals building. beverages and munchies, reading material plus TV and much more to keep you relaxed and entertained. Visit www.kulula.com for more details. fast check-in avoid the crowd The airport’s small and compact size means fewer Fewer crowds allow you to have a less stressful airport crowds, making it faster to navigate through the experience while being able to maintain social distancing. check-in and boarding queues. For more information on Lanseria click here. All strict COVID -19 protocols are observed. iflykulula iflykulula kulula kulula.com kulula.com Love exclusive deals? Sign up to kulula.com/fanmail
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE EXPERIENCE KEEP IT SAFE THE SOCIAL SPACE 1 Before it’s too late One look at these doughnut-resembling creatures and you kind of know they’re doomed. In Extinct, a pair of these Flummels – adorable, fluffy, highly entertaining prehistoric creatures – are magically transported from 1835 to present-day Shanghai. They encounter congested streets and trans fats and many more modern-day quirks. They also learn that their species is extinct. Their task? To travel back in time and prevent the eradication of Flummelkind. It’s a cute way of introducing young people to a serious concept – and perhaps getting their minds to grapple with ways of preventing other species from going the way of the Flummels. It’s terrific fun, and with lots of great voices adding to the comedy madness. In cinemas from 2 April. kulula.com APRIL 2021 7
EXPERIENCE SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE 4 2 3 2 It’s all Greek to me 3 Alanocalypse Now! 4 Run in a forest, run The saucy drag-queen trio at Cape After months of delays and With its mix of mountain Town’s Gate 69 cabaret theatre postponements, our cover star – and forest trails, stimulating have never been known to hold Alan Committie – will (hopefully, views and good company, back. Nonetheless, lockdown fingers crossed) finally be the Savanna Origin of curfews interrupted their planned performing his stand-up show, Trails Trail Run Experience summertime run of Eros, their Apoca-LAUGHS Now!, this month. happens in Stellenbosch Greek tragedy-inspired grown-up The veteran jester has had tons of on 24 and 25 April. You can musical romp. The show must go on, time to theorise about where the enter for pure enjoyment or, however. Hotter, fleshier and more promised R500 billion has actually like Gimo Matusso and Chris risqué than ever, the naughty adult ended up. And he’s finally figured Visser (pictured above), musical riffs the mythical Aphrodite, out TikTok. Join him in the socially- run more competitively. It’s refiguring her as an agony aunt distanced Theatre on the Bay in a stage race, with around whose son, Eros, is one big raging Cape Town as he comically unpacks 25km on day one, and 17km hormone. It’s running until 1 May. the current end of the world. on day two. gate69.co.za computicket.com stillwatersports.com 8 APRIL 2021 kulula.com
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE EXPERIENCE 7 6 7 7 5 5 Back to life 6 A hairy, scary, fairy tale 7 A feast for the eyes Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Justin Dingwall, Douglas Condzo, Chris Hitchcock, Supplied With theatres empty for so Hänsel und Gretel is traditionally Until 29 April, Cape Town’s long, it’s exhilarating to see a feel-good, family-friendly opera Eclectica Contemporary is Cape Town’s dancers back in despite the dark themes (poverty, hosting 11:11, a group exhibition action. Pictured rehearsing child abduction, cannibalism) encompassing artworks, furniture are Johnny Bovang and that haunt the original fairy tale pieces and design artefacts. Janet Lindup, who’ll be on upon which it’s based. Cape Town Above are three of the works stage for Robin van Wyk’s Opera has turned up the heat by on display: Justin Dingwall’s production of Coppélia, the engaging photographer Roger Rise, a serene Madonna-like classic comic ballet about Ballen (whose work inspired hip- photographic portrait of model the outrageous Dr Coppélius hop duo, Die Antwoord) to design Thando Hopa; Fishermen by who creates a life-size sets for the production. It’s going Mozambican photographer doll that can dance. It’s at to be unlike any opera ever seen – Douglas Condzo; and hexagonal Artscape Opera House from and not for children. At Artscape stack tables by designer Haldane 15 to 17 April. Opera House from 3 April. Martin. Also viewable online. computicket.com capetownopera.co.za eclecticacontemporary.co.za kulula.com APRIL 2021 9
SILVER SCREEN GREATS EXPERIENCE And the Oscar goes to… The pandemic has changed movie-making, movie-going, and even the nature of the world’s most famous award ceremony. These are a few of the films likely to be honoured on 26 April Oscar who? Farewell to legends Solid bronze, coated in Even with the incredible Viola Davis 24-karat gold, the Oscar in the role of Gertrude ‘Ma’ Rainey – statuette is just over 34cm, ‘Mother of the Blues’ – it’s Chadwick almost 4kg. It began as MGM Boseman who’ll get much of the art director Cedric Gibbons’s attention for his fiery performance in sketch of a knight gripping a Netflix’s Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom. sword standing in front of a Adapted from August Wilson’s play, it’s film reel. Los Angeles sculptor set in Chicago on a single day in 1927. George Stanley turned the Tensions – racial, musical, sexual – sketch into a statue in 1928. mount as a group of musicians wait for Officially named the Academy a recording session to begin. Boseman Award of Merit, its nickname (who was Black Panther in the Marvel has been in official use since mega-hit) plays a headstrong cornet 1939 – legend has it that an player. Fellow cast members marvelled Academy librarian said at his commitment to what was to be his the statue resembled her final performance – Boseman died last Uncle Oscar and the year, aged 43, having battled cancer for name caught on. three years. kulula.com APRIL 2021 11
EXPERIENCE SILVER SCREEN GREATS It happened one night One Night in Miami is another play adaptation, this time from Amazon. The night in question takes us back to 1964 when four titans of Black history gather to celebrate after Cassius Clay – a boxing underdog who was soon to rechristen himself Muhammad Ali – defeats heavyweight champion Sonny Liston at the Miami Convention Hall. It’s among the biggest upsets in boxing history and when Clay meets his friends – Malcolm X, Sam Cooke and Jim Brown – they end up discussing the part they’ve yet to play in the history that’s coming. Payback time Promising Young Woman is pretty much a revenge thriller – albeit with comedic elements and a cerebral script – that tackles the lasting impact of gender-based violence. Carey Mulligan gives the performance of a lifetime as a woman who inadvertently grabs an opportunity to avenge a sexual crime that destroyed the life of one of her college friends. It’s a genuinely unpredictable film that maintains the kick of its opening, and keeps you guessing – not to mention slightly disturbed. Searching for the American Dream Like last year’s Best Picture Oscar winner, Minari centres on a Korean family, albeit a more traditional one than the offbeat clan in Parasite. Minari also differs in that it’s effectively an American film, looking at the Korean immigrant experience. Filmmaker Lee Isaac Chung has turned to his personal experience to paint this portrait of a Korean-American family in rural Arkansas in the 1980s – it feels incredibly intimate and real and opens in local cinemas on 16 April. 12 APRIL 2021 kulula.com
SILVER SCREEN GREATS EXPERIENCE The wanderer Courtroom injustice In Nomadland, Frances Even if you’re not into courtroom McDormand plays an itinerant dramas and have zero interest worker – ‘houseless, not in activist politics, you’ll still be homeless,’ she says – who lives gripped by Netflix’s The Trial in her truck, nomadically drifting of the Chicago 7. It follows the from one trailer park to the next. trial of a group of anti-Vietnam Every day is a kind of mystery: War activists who were arrested periods of freedom, solitude and on spurious charges during grand vistas are interspersed the 1968 Democratic National with moments of unexpected Convention – they’re accused community and belonging. of inciting violence during a There are lonely times, but peaceful demonstration. It’ll also love and new friendships have you furious with frustration between the hiccups. In cinemas at the power of a system from 16 April. designed to squash reason. And, yes, that’s Sacha Baron Cohen (aka Borat) pictured below Chance encounter (right) with the wild, hippie- On Netflix, News of the World is one era hair – he plays one of the of those epic period films made even activists on trial and might even grander by the presence of Tom win an Oscar. Hanks. It’s 1870 and Jefferson Kidd, a former Confederate officer, makes his way in the aftermath of civil war by going from town to town charging to read newspapers. He finds an upturned wagon and strikes an unlikely friendship with a young girl who has survived. Striking out together, each dangerous encounter they share deepens their allegiance. It’s violent and deals with some tricky racial dynamics, but it has the vast vistas and enough action-packed shootouts to make it hugely entertaining. Still, not good enough for a Best Picture nomination, nor one for Hanks. Black Panther backstabber Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Supplied There’s more history and more politics in the Shaka King-directed drama Judas and the Black Messiah which follows events leading up to the 1969 murder of Black Panther chairman Fred Hampton – at the hands of the Chicago police. Focus is on FBI informant William O’Neal who infiltrates the Black Panther’s Illinois chapter in order to keep tabs on Hampton (played by Daniel Kaluuya of Get Out fame). The film plays out as a battle for O’Neal’s conscience, and is packed with moving speeches and powerhouse performances. kulula.com APRIL 2021 13
THE UNBELIEVABLE POWER TO RIDE MORE TRAILS TURBO LEVO SPECIALIZED.COM/ T U R B O - L E VO
RIDE, RIDE, RIDE YOUR BIKE EXPLORE EXPLORE Here. There. Everywhere. Hit the trail There’s G-Spot and Bartinney’s Skyfall. And the iconic ‘floating bridge’ at Mont Marie. Just a couple of the legendary route sections cyclists tackle during the Savanna Origin of Trails MTB Experience in Stellenbosch on 24 and 25 April. The two- part stage race divvies up its network of world-class trails Words: Keith Bain, Picture: Tobias Ginsberg into a 45km and a 40km stretch; there’s also a half- marathon race over 27km and 22km. Entries close on 20 April (or when capacity is reached); Covid-19 protocols will be enforced. stillwatersports.com. Bed down in Gqeberha 17 Rock the Cederberg 23 Meander the Midlands 35 PLUS Safari beyond the Big Five 31 kulula.com APRIL 2021 15
FRIENDLY CITY BOLTHOLES EXPLORE SAY IT RIGHT REST ASSURED 1. Home sweet home It’s Gqeberha now, so be sure to practise your clicks before you go. If all else fails, ask the obliging staff at Singa Lodge to help you get your tongue around it. Besides isiXhosa pronunciation lessons, Singa’s staff will remind you why this will always be the Friendly City, starting with the generous and homey environment they’ve created for you here in laid-back Summerstrand. kulula.com APRIL 2021 17
EXPLORE FRIENDLY CITY BOLTHOLES Clicking in Gqeberha Explore the coast Gqeberha’s sun-drenched beaches see plenty of action, and there’s a string of paved promenades and raised boardwalks leading you past surfers, joggers and sun- worshippers – key landmarks include the Boardwalk Casino and Shark Rock Pier. Raggy Charters Things about Singa Lodge that’ll make you smile? For a sea-going adventure, set off It feels like it’s part of the neighbourhood – a sprawling home tucked with this boating outfit to explore St away between the houses, and just 100m from the beach, where Croix Island marine reserve where you can hop on the boardwalk and walk along the coast for miles. 20 000 African penguins breed. It’s aesthetically charming, too – arranged around a pool and lush raggycharters.co.za garden, the huge suite-sized rooms are rich with screens, mosaics, hand-stencilled wallpapers, and embroidered silks. A mix of African and Eastern artworks and artefacts serve as decor throughout, giving Tabú it a personalised feel. If you crave a good sunset view, Good to know? Singa has long been a popular spot among head up to the Radisson Blu’s foreigners for pre- and post-safari stays. Which means they ocean-facing pool deck. From here understand full-scale relaxation and also know how to connect you you can witness sunset with a with local experiences – and can make loads of arrangements on cocktail in hand and an eye on the your behalf. surf – sometimes you catch surfers OMG factor? Aside from the cavorting with dolphins in miniature resort ambiance, you the breakers. should check out the open-plan radissonhotels.com bathrooms – some of them feel like you have your own in-room spa. They also know about food here, and so it’s worth staying in for dinner at least once. Not for you if… you prefer a hotel where you feel anonymous. There’s an intimacy here, a feel-good factor. How deep are your pockets? There’s a special rate for South Africans until September; from R896 per couple, including breakfast. singalodge.com 18 APRIL 2021 kulula.com
FRIENDLY CITY BOLTHOLES EXPLORE Werk_ In the Baakens Valley, this is an old industrial warehouse – now pronounced ‘werk space’ – reconfigured as a community hub with shops, workspaces, places to eat and grab craft beer or visit the tiny rum distillery for a tasting of hard tack. There are lounge- like nooks, a pottery studio, art galleries and a jeweller. Werk_ also hosts regular food truck events 2. An oasis in the city that help support the community. Forest Hall Guest House occupies an enchanted old English manor werkspace.co.za in a fantastically leafy part of Walmer – the 1.5-acre estate is full of immense trees, flower beds and birds singing their lungs out. Plus, there’s a wonderful pool and outdoor lounging area. Savages Fine Food Things that’ll make you smile? It’s family-owned and -operated Never mind the name, the food and the consequence is that you are looked after like you’re visiting is superb. In an historic house royalty. A lot of love has gone into creating and maintaining immaculate opposite St George’s Park, this guest quarters. There’s a range of options – from a three-bedroom attic is where you’ll get gourmet Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Supplied unit with a full kitchen for self-catering, to a room made just for solo breakfasts or world-class lunches travellers. and find dishes for almost every OMG factor? Well, those gardens take your breath away. And – just dietary restriction. Look out for imagine – there are tennis courts, a trampoline, and even a second the truffle-fried wild mushroom swimming pool. sandwich with artichokes and How deep are your pockets? From R1200 per couple including marinated peppers. breakfast, it’s an absolute bargain. facebook.com/savagesPE foresthall.co.za kulula.com APRIL 2021 19
ALAN COMMITTIE MEET Take off with Alan There is no time for regrets Hello, lovely people! It’s me, Alan Committie! As we stumbled into 2021, hoping against all hope that things might suddenly change but knowing they couldn’t with any immediate effect, I challenged myself to do things I had always aspired to do but neglected because real life always reared its silly head. First up, I took an introductory flight as a potential pilot of a small Cessna – it was as glorious and eccentric as I had hoped. Watch this space for plans to get my fixed-wing pilot licence. In the spirit of winged adventures, I also paraglided – or is that paraglayed, or para-glied, maybe paragilded… Stuff it, I flew with a paraglider from the top of Signal Hill over the kugelled rooftops of Sea Point and onto the promenade grasses… Both adventures ignited my courage to undertake some live outdoor garden performances for 50 audience members in February. Performing to real laughing (albeit masked) faces and giggles that filled the starry night sky instantly skyrocketed me right back into the orbits that I experienced with the other two activities. I cannot wait to fly again. On and off stage. Picture: Sven Kristian So, what will you be doing next in order to ensure you have no regrets? While you ponder that, please have a great flight and be safe wherever you are. kulula.com APRIL 2021 21
IT’S BOULDERING SEASON in the Cederberg! Rocklands, in the northern Cederberg, is the world’s premier bouldering destination. Here, a timeless landscape of rugged rock invites outdoor adventurers to explore. Test your skills on the boulders, rope up for sport climbing or go for an invigorating walk. Then let the spectacular views and deep quiet of Rocklands wash over you. Just over three hours from Cape Town, you will be within reach of hundreds of first-rate boulders. Come experience natural thrills in this one-of-a-kind wilderness. Buy your permit through Quicket Conserve. Explore. Experience. For more information visit www.capenature.co.za 087 087 8250 T&Cs Apply
VERTICAL LIMIT EXPLORE School of rock Nicci Collier goes adventuring in the Cederberg I am climbing a 10. Sunrise Arête. Beyond easy if you’re a climber, tricksy for an absolute beginner like me who doesn’t know what to do with all these big chunks of jutting-out rock I’m supposed to get around as I ascend. At the top, I scramble onto the ledge – awkwardly, ungracefully, full of relief and delight. The route is as tame as it gets, but feels to me like Everest. Up here, the evening wind carries a serious chill as we soak up the last rays of the day. The rock glows amber in the setting sun, and across from us, on the other side of the lush river bed, a shadow creeps up the slopes, engulfing a lonely cottage. kulula.com APRIL 2021 23
EXPLORE VERTICAL LIMIT Having conquered the to push myself out and away from the route, I’ve somehow been rock face, I glide down easily towards persuaded into the next the earth. It’s over too quickly. Once four adventurous pursuit: of us are down, we sit and watch Ewan abseiling back down. descend with the first of a billion I watch the first of our stars twinkling against the darkening group disappear over sky above. the edge of the cliff and We head back to base: our beautiful successfully land back campsite at Nuwerust Rest Camp in the on terra firma. Then, southern Cederberg is perfect for those huddled close to Dan between-adventures pursuits – whether for warmth, I listen as making whirlpools in the campsite pool Ewan explains how to or cooking slow potjies while watching survive this. How to the heavens light up. safely position myself The next day we’re up early, emerging as I take that first step, from our tents to another clear, crisp where to place my morning that quickly sends the mercury hands, how to control climbing as the summer sun bakes the weight of my body down on the rocky landscape. on the rope as I lower I’ve been told you can’t come to the myself down towards the Cederberg and not hike to Wolfberg. ground. As I lean back It’s a full day; a hot and exhausting, into my harness, I don’t exhilarating and unforgettable day. The look down, don’t think hike is steep – with a small climb onto a about how my life relies ledge at one point – but the higher you on this equipment and go, the better the views become. And the the knot-tying skills of deeper into wilderness we go, the more my camping crew. I take meditative the hike becomes. a deep breath and walk Eventually we reach the famed backwards off the ledge, Wolfberg Cracks: a long, narrow into thin air. passageway hewn into the ancient It’s a strange feeling. rock, with otherworldly caves and Thrilling, though. Gently extraordinary erosions at every angle as releasing myself along you ogle, crawl and clamber your way the rope, using my feet through to the other side. 24 APRIL 2021 kulula.com
Kromrivier farm is the oldest THINGS TO DO: Accommodation & camping and one of the most popular Eatery tourist destinations in the Wedding & events venue Cederberg. Bordering Truitjieskraal Kromrivier vineyards Nieuwbrew craft brewery and other popular climbing areas, Hiking this resort offers an ideal base for Climbing ( Trad & Sport ) Mountain biking climbers, while others can be kept Horse riding busy with a variety of additional Swimming Picnic Areas activities. Fishing +27 (27) 4822807 bookings@cederbergpark.com kromriviercederbergpark www.cederbergpark.com
ADVENTURE AWAITS Here at Agear.co.za We’re a team of adventurers in the outdoor equipment industry we pride ourselves that strive to deliver exceptional service from pre-purchase on being the start of queries through to after-sales support. any adventure. Whether it is hiking, climbing, running, trekking, camping or industrial, agear.co.za caters for all. Agear, created for adventurers by adventurers Drop us an email at info@agear.co.za or our website: www.agear.co.za
VERTICAL LIMIT EXPLORE ‘a long, narrow passageway hewn into the ancient rock, with otherworldly caves and extraordinary erosions at every angle as you ogle, crawl and clamber your way through to the other side’ A bit further on and the Wolfberg Arch off the top. Not me. I lie back in the sand, finally comes into view, although it's still and stare. I stare at my friends lowering around 1½ hours away. Over a water themselves through the air. I stare up at break, half the team decides to head back this majestic monument of stone. I stare to the campsite. I grit my teeth, determined across the endless rocky landscape, to make it all the way. And I do. undulating into the distance as far as the Reaching the Arch is worth every hot, eye can see. thirsty, heavy-backpack step. The serious And I stare inwards to a heart Spider-Man types among us climb up the overflowing with gratitude for this indelible Arch, then set up their ropes and abseil moment in time. kulula.com APRIL 2021 27
EXPLORE VERTICAL LIMIT Rock steady Bed down with boulderers In the northern Cederberg, near Whether or not you’re tackling Clanwilliam, probably somewhere boulders, you can fortify in in the vicinity of Pakhuis Pass, charmed surrounds at De Pakhuys, you’ll notice clumps of people – an olive farm with lots of space, like Spider-Man impersonators sandstone all around, and a kitted out by Cape Union Mart location right in the heart of all the – seemingly adhered to rocky bouldering action you could need. overhangs and giant boulders. They even have their own on-site They’re members of the climbing area where you can solve international climbing fraternity bouldering problem like ‘Witness that – since 1996 – has discovered the Sickness’ and ‘Gliding Through the bounty at Rocklands, a the Waves Like Dophins’. mecca of ochre-tinged boulders There’s a choice of digs – wooden concentrated primarily along a cabins, luxury tents, permanent 20km stretch of road that experts caravans, a campsite, and even say affords a lifetime of world- fully kitted-out houses (like the class bouldering (rock climbing three-bedroom Blokhuys, which without climbing aids and typically is a stroll away from the rock Pictures: Tatami_Skanks/ istock.com, subman/ istock.com, Udo Kieslich/ istock.com, de Pakhuys, skilpad/ istock.com, Supplied limited to heights of under 8m). faces you might want to climb The fine-grain, medium-hard and surrounded by the kinds of sandstone is rough but said to be views that make the Cederberg great for climbing, and those in the so special). There are trails to know say there are at least 1 500 hike, rock art worth seeking out, identifiable bouldering ‘problems’ wineries, a farm dam in which to against which to test their skills. cool off and historic Wuppertal They have names like Adultworld, town to explore. Your hosts Biscuit Wall, Rubik’s Cube Wall can point you in the direction of and The Bastille; Tea Time, whatever your heart desires. meanwhile, is where you can depakhuys.com imagine you’re climbing up a teapot spout. Some hands may have grown smooth during lockdown, but as global travel reopens, it’ll be among the top places in the world to re-callous fingers and strengthen wrists. 28 APRIL 2021 kulula.com
Jule Wurm bouldering in Rocklands Photographed by Micky Wiswedel 066 304 5854 173 Longmarket st vertigogear.co.za Accredited Rock Climbing Skills courses Accredited Hiking Skills courses Retailers of premium brand gear for your climbing, hiking or trail running needs. Owned and operated by climbers, our advice is backed by 25 years of globe-trotting (and a few trips to the Cederberg)
R E D C A R N AT I O N H OT E L S .C O M
BEYOND THE LAND CRUISER EXPLORE Safari with a twist There are plenty of ways to get out there and experience wild nature without being in the back of a 4X4 Participating alongside rangers and vets, trekking out with ecologists and conservationists as they do the stuff that’s usually ‘off camera’ is now something of a privilege, adding an extra layer of sophistication at luxury lodges where guests can pay a premium to join the working crews conducting their field duties. While hardly inexpensive, such experiences afford a strong sense of being part of something meaningful. In the malaria- free Waterberg in Limpopo, guests at Tintswalo Lapalala in the 48 500-hectare Lapalala Wilderness can join the conservation team in rhino and elephant research and monitoring activities which include ear-notching, DNA sampling, and fitting animals with microchips. The reserve’s 27 elephants are carefully monitored and, with advance planning, you can sign up to join a collaring mission when one of the animal’s tracking collars needs replacing. Guests meet up with the helicopter used to locate and dart the elephant, and then assist by helping to F monitor the elephant’s vitals while DNA samples are collected or many, a wildlife safari is a kind of live David and the collar replaced. Time is always of the essence and Attenborough-narrated documentary – experienced in there’s a sense of accomplishment once you’ve completed 4D thanks to the bump and grind of a 4x4 navigating your mission. through a legit bushveld that’s alive with stereophonic Meanwhile, at Thanda Safari Private Game Reserve in sounds, extreme Technicolor, and the promise of bumping into northern KZN, guests can join dedicated on-foot rhino tracking increasingly rare creatures. expeditions led by a specialist rhino monitor. They also host Always thrilling, it’s usually a sit-back-and-watch experience. a half-day activity dedicated to taking you close to the action But there are countless other ways of being on safari, as a rhino is identified from the air and then darted before you whether your thrill is ticking birds off a list, glimpsing insects, assist the team in notching the sedated animal for research or perhaps participating in activities that – to rehash the wildlife purposes. It’s not cheap, since there’s the cost of the helicopter documentary metaphor – take you ‘behind the scenes’. to consider, but such a rush! kulula.com APRIL 2021 31
EXPLORE BEYOND THE LAND CRUISER Beach safari Namibia’s Skeleton Coast National Park covers two million hectares of gravel plains divided by ephemeral rivers, and vast dunefields facing a 500km shoreline. Its eeriness is unmistakeable – among the bones on the beach, there are human skeletons. Plus, Notching rhino Run wild, run free occasional scenes of Apart from participating They always tell you, lions picking on whale in its reserve’s elephant ‘Don’t run!’ But at Thanda carcases, or, more collaring missions, guests Safari, this month’s Run horrifically, hyenas Up, up and away at Tintswalo Lapalala Wild experience affords a feeding on live seal pups. You need to be up super can sign up for one of chance to break that basic And yet, as much as it is early and there is always four dedicated rhino rule. This trail-running littered with the corpses a chance that some gust experiences happening adventure is a chance to of ships and seal skulls of wind will scupper your once a month from May explore the reserve while jumbled with turtle rib plans to fly, but nothing through August. The hoofing it at whatever pace cages and the bleached on earth compares to the veterinary team will you can muster, safe in the vertebrae of whales, it’s thrill of a hot-air balloon dart and immobilise a knowledge that you’ll at all undeniably beautiful. ride above the Busanga white or black rhino and times be under the watch of Guests at Shipwreck Plains in Zambia’s Kafue participants may assist the reserve’s anti-poaching Lodge are taken on National Park. With ace with monitoring the team. It’s a bargain game drives along the pilot Eric Hesemans animal during the capture. weekend, too, with a super- dry riverbeds and get to flying, you look down A vital part of Lapalala’s low rate of just R2 995 per explore the dunefields. on an incredible mosaic rhino security initiative, person sharing per night, At Cape Fria there’s a of grasslands laced guests will help monitor including accommodation, massive seal colony and by water channels the tranquillised animal two game drives daily, all you’ll see scuttling ghost and lagoons where while vets collect DNA for meals, and most beverages. crabs, terns soaring hippo pods and crocs the Rhino DNA Indexing thandasafari.co.za above the surf, and the congregate. Squint System, a forensic odd black-backed and those moving library where every jackal loping across shadows turn out to be rhino’s unique genetic the dunes or feasting elephants, the faster fingerprint is stored. The on seal corpses (like dots are lechwe trying Conservation Experience the one below). to outpace the balloon’s costs R16 000 for two shipwrecklodge.com.na shadow. Conditions only people, and excludes all permit flights August other costs. through October. But tintswalo.com Heseman’s company flies year-round in Namibia, above Sossusvlei and neighbouring reserves. balloon-safaris.com 32 APRIL 2021 kulula.com
BEYOND THE LAND CRUISER EXPLORE Big city safari Safari in Joburg? ‘It’s possible at Melville Koppies Nature Reserve,’ says Wendy Carstens, chairman of the volunteer committee that manages the park. ‘You won’t see the Big Five. But you will see other intriguing Desert safari natural beauties as The scale of the Rockpool safari you meander through Kalahari consumes At De Hoop Nature grasslands, rocky ridges, you in a spiritual way. Reserve a highlight cool forested areas Here, in a desolate is searching for the and a bubbling spruit. land of saltpans, strange creatures that European bee-eaters rust-red sandveld live in intertidal rock can sometimes be dunes and wide-open pools. Dalfrenzo Laing seen swooping over the nothingness, are 12 (above) has been showing grasslands hoovering cabins arranged along guests this patch of up insects. You may see a raised embankment coast for years – his a tortoise, hedgehog Walkies overlooking a heart- knowledge of the unusual or shongololo crossing Whether you’re getting an shaped pan. !Xaus Lodge creatures is intimate a trail. We have a 5km up-close understanding (below) is situated on and encyclopaedic. The trail with lots of ups and of cat scat or learning the 91st dune from stories get gory: urchins downs, and a heritage about hyena turds, the Auob River some are gruesome killers; trail.’ mk.org.za there’s nothing like a 30km away. It’s owned certain starfish digest walking safari to deepen Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Supplied by ‡Khomani San and their prey by turning their Meerkat safari connection with the Mier communities. By stomachs inside out. It’s probably the most wilderness. Walking day, San trackers can And, after Dalfrenzo’s curious arrangement Safaris of South Africa take you on game walks thrilling tales, you might of animals you could (Struik) is a new book across dunes traversed spy whales or dolphins hope to find here in the by seasoned hikers by big-maned Kalahari surfing in the waves. middle of a big empty Hlengiwe Magagula (in lions, cheetah, oryx, dehoopcollection.com nature reserve just blue above) and Denis and elephant. After outside Oudtshoorn. Costello – they cover dark, you’ll hear geckos Devey Glinister, a meerkat 59 guided walks across barking while jackals enthusiast who has spent 21 big-game parks and and hyenas scream into countless hours observing reserves, unpacking the the night. these creatures in their options available in each xauslodge.co.za natural environment, park, from short walks has habituated them to to multi-day wilderness visiting humans. You have trails. A highlight is to be up long before the Magagula’s vivid first- sun to see them – but it’s hand accounts of definitely worth it. exploring the bush fiveshymeerkats.co.za on foot. kulula.com APRIL 2021 33
Visitors are treated as friends Harrow Hill is an elegantly furnished English 3-star establishment providing bed and breakfast facilities, in a quiet, luxurious and peaceful haven. The Bed & Breakfast has lovely bedrooms with full bathrooms, a guest sitting room with interesting books and antiques, a large pool set in a magnificent country garden. Situated in Howick, the centre of the Midlands Meander Arts & Crafts route. Close to Midmar Dam & Nature Reserve and the Karkloof mountain range. Wifi, laundry facilities. Credit cards accepted Bed & Breakfast in Howick, Kwa-Zulu Natal Caroline Gemmell Contact details: Email: harrow@lantic.net | Website: www.harrowhill.co.za
MIDLANDS, ABOVE AND BEYOND EXPLORE Midway to heaven Strap in with Nicci Collier for a bird’s-eye view of the KZN Midlands I would love to wax lyrical about the gorgeous views of the Drakensberg from up here. But the truth is, I’ve no idea which direction to look, nor which way is up or down, left or right. We are spiralling through the air like a spinning top and I’m so dizzy that my focus is mainly on keeping down my breakfast. Some people do experience motion sickness, our hosts had warned as we bumped along the winding gravel road to the clifftop from where we would leap. Turns out I am one of them. To be fair, it’s only this initial roller- coastering part that’s made me queasy. For the rest, I feel a bright, sweet-tart fruit salad of feelings: Freedom; thrilled to the very core; immense peace; marginally terrified; incredibly humbled; and somehow empowered. kulula.com APRIL 2021 35
EXPLORE MIDLANDS, ABOVE AND BEYOND Clockwise from above Hop on a steam train in Creighton during the Aloe Festival; Wildsky paragliders launching from Bulwer Mountain; idyllic Cleopatra Mountain Farm House; children can fly through the sky on a zipline at Piggly Wiggly in Lions River Yes, all these distinct feelings all at once. Because it from Bulwer to Underberg (about 25km as the, um, I am flying. Soaring, bobbing, bouncing, dangling in crow flies) from early in her career. the air. Here at the main paragliding site on Bulwer Mountain, And, yes, when we finally stop spinning and are once you've ‘thermalled’ up above the peaks, you can gently gliding – floating – through the air, I feel indeed see the southern Drakensberg – and plenty more absolutely awed by the endless views over hills and besides. Come winter, there’s likely to be a smattering valleys, fields and forests. Paragliding above the KZN of snow on the ground. Midlands, all those endless green rolling hills below Also known as Amahaqwa (‘misty one’), this me, is like nothing I’ve ever felt before. mountain is the major backdrop to the Midlands town We are here to meet the Fokkens (no, really). of Bulwer, which is the perfect stop-off to refuel before Hans and Ria Fokkens run Wildsky – a professional entering the wild beauty of ‘The Berg’. The village’s paragliding operation at the foot of Bulwer Mountain. yellowwood church, built in 1886, is worth a look, and Hans started paragliding in 1989, then went on twitchers will appreciate the feathered inhabitants of to be part of the South African team at the World Marutswa forest. Despite its international renown as a Championship in Japan in 1995 and was crowned the year-round paragliding destination, Bulwer’s very low- South African Champion in 2001. key, which makes it a great base, and there are so many Ria, also a competitive paraglider, met Hans when worthwhile places to see, eat and stay in the region that she started flying in 1998. She’s long had a knack even passionate paragliders will want to explore all it for distance (cross-country) flying and was winging has to offer beyond the misty mountain… 36 APRIL 2021 kulula.com
HOME DELIVERY AUTHENTIC TASTE THAI THROUGH Eating out Relaxation at its Best The journeys, tastes, accumulating flavors and experiences of “TASTE OF THAI” Welcome to Taste of Thai Restaurant and Spa. Our Multi Award winning establishment offers are ready,once again, to #Homedeliver the taste of an authentic traditional Thai cuisine to your place a little genuine glimpse of Thailand in Hilton KZN. Through a journey of accumulating tastes of LOCK DOWN. and flavors of an authentic traditional home-cooked Thai cuisine, to experiences of authentic Pampering Thai massages. It is all about Relaxation at Taste of Thai. E achandofnurture our massage treatments are designed to sooth the body, mind, spirit and soul. Choose from an exotic selection of spa packages that bring a truly holistic approach to the Thai Spa Experience. J oin us for a meal in our elegantly decorated Multi Award winning Restaurant. We offer Lunch, afternoon tea, and a wonderful fine dining experience. Please follow us on Facebook : tasteofthai.sa W e contribute to the preservation of Thailand’s Instagram: tasteofthaisouthafrica rich cultural heritage through the art and Youtube: Tasteofthai South Africa practice of Traditional Thai Cooking. For more Information Taste of Thai has a special, tranquil atmosphere Booking: 033-343-1234 / 0741809450 in a beautiful, peaceful indoor and outdoor Email: tasteofthai@mweb.co.za setting, surrounded by lots of running water www.tasteofthaisa.co.za and Natural Beauty. Taste of Thai Restaurant and Spa Lower Quarry Center Hilton If you want a break from the hustle and bustle of your busy life, you could not do better than to treat yourself to a visit to taste of Thai.
Restaurant, Weddings and Functions 100% KZN ESTATE WINES WWW.HIGHGATEWINEESTATE.CO.ZA info@highgatewineestate.co.za There is something for everyone! Piggly Wiggly is the perfect place for friends and families to get together and enjoy the fresh country air. Your trip to the Midlands is not complete without visiting Piggly Wiggly Country Village. From its humble beginnings, as a roadside farm stall, to what it is today there is something for everyone to enjoy. Whether you stop for a delicious farm-style lunch or indulge in some chocolate or ice-cream tasting or maybe you decide to take the kids on a train ride, to candle dip or play a round of putt-putt, everyone ends up leaving with a smile. “We are conveniently situated just off the N3, between Howick and Nottingham Road, and we welcome a wide range of visitors every day. As a family-run business, from the moment you step into our establishment, we hope that you will feel right at home as you experience the best of the KZN Midlands.” P.S. Don’t forget to stop by our very own Highgate Wine Estate to sample our KZN-certified wines produced from the grapes grown on our farm www.pigglywiggly.co.za info@pigglywiggly.co.za
MIDLANDS, ABOVE AND BEYOND EXPLORE A million ways to This little piggy… meander in the Midlands On Highgate Wine Estate With its array of highways, in Lions River, part of the byways, back roads and Meander is Piggly Wiggly, routes through magically a one-stop everything-at- tucked away hamlets your-fingertips gathering steeped in countryside spot for shoppers, charm, lush forests and foodies and fun-seekers. voluptuous valleys, the Among the shops in this Midlands Meander may Midlands version of a just be the country’s mall is Chocolate Heaven most well-organised with its messy-but-fun collection of fabulous and trademarked ‘Dippingz fun things to do on a day Experience’ (think out. Or for a weekend, a chocolate fondue) – their Savour, sleep and soar week, or however much flavour imagination runs time you can muster. Its to chocolate infused in the Midlands website is brimming with with biltong, curry and quaint places to pull into koeksisters. Also at Feast on a farm Hang in a hammock for a snack or a feast, to Piggly Wiggly? A petting Indulgent five-course Farther north, Antbear sample craft beers or zoo and reptile park, dinners by award-winning Lodge (above) – near try out state- of-the-art children’s zipline, Zulu chef, Richard Poynton, Giant’s Castle – offers coffees. You can visit with Lulu arts and crafts are just one reason to unique stays in a cosy alpacas, learn to throw a gallery, mini golf, a stay at dreamy Cleopatra cave with Jacuzzi spa pot, discover countless candle dipping studio, Mountain Farm House. bath and a fireplace. crafters, artisans and and to buy there’s With its roaring log fires, Built under a rock, artists working to the beat everything from furniture Copper Pot Spa, and glass doors open onto of their own drum. Plus, to imaginative toys luxurious, individually a wooden deck with partake of all sorts of (at Eclectic Magpie). themed rooms, it’s hammock chairs and adventuresome pursuits. pigglywiggly.co.za an idyllic base for Drakensberg views. You can cast for trout, hop mountain hikes, horse Dine by candlelight on your mountain bike, Taste of the sublime riding, or trout fishing. under the stars, take hike lush hills, visit the If all this sightseeing cleopatramountain.com a hot-air balloon Mandela Capture Site, all and exertion puts you in flight, or enjoy the while savouring expansive need of another holiday, For high flyers star-gazing hammock views, and ogling fields in plot a course to Hilton, Wildsky is operated by camp… Mlindeni gets which cows chew the cud where Taste of Thai not serious professionals with everyone settled into while shadowy mountains only dishes up authentic decades of experience. their hammocks with loom overhead. It is a fresh and fragrant dishes Apart from tandem flights blankets and hot-water place straight out of a from the Land of Smiles, Pictures: Nicci Collier, Supplied and paragliding courses, bottles, then – with the fairytale, with loads of fab but also has a super they have a backpacker sounds of the night as places to spend the night spa where experienced lodge at the foot of Bulwer a backdrop – shares while you dream of what hands will soothe your Mountain, and a forest the folktales his to do next, and where fatigued muscles – ideal cottage for you to stay in. grandmother told him to visit in the morning. after flying above Bulwer. wildsky.co.za as a child. antbear.co.za midlandsmeander.co.za tasteofthaisa.co.za kulula.com APRIL 2021 39
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SOLE TO SOUL DISCOVER DISCOVER People. Ideas. Things. Giving sexy back A bit of a wonder plant, bamboo not only grows up to 40mm an hour, but produces a magical fibre that’s cooling in hot weather and helps keep you warm in winter. So it’s an ideal sock fabric. Bamboo processing is also kinder to the environment, which makes local brand Sexy Socks pretty, um, sexy. They’re superbly soft, resist odours, and have anti-bacterial properties. We also love that Sexy Socks founder Dave Hutchinson thinks with his heart: for every pair sold, his company donates a pair of school socks to a needy child. And when he and his Sexy team visit schools to drop off socks, they Words: Keith Bain, Picture: Supplied talk to the youngsters about social entrepreneurship – how business can be a force for positive change. To join the campaign, simply invest in a pair of Sexy Socks; you can check out some of their new designs on page 50. What you eat matters 42 Now and tomorrow 45 Novel tales 53 kulula.com APRIL 2021 41
DISCOVER THE GLOBAL SYNDEMIC Enough is enough In this extract from her book, Enough*, Dr Cassandra Coburn outlines the link between climate change and human health – and how our food systems are the vital link between them 42 APRIL 2021 kulula.com
W THE GLOBAL SYNDEMIC DISCOVER e may think of factories belching out clouds of noxious gases as the main culprit, but food systems * Dr Cassandra form the single biggest driver of environmental Coburn’s new book, change on the planet. Agriculture uses half of all Enough: How your habitable land, while food production as a whole food choices will emits 26% of global greenhouse gases and uses save the planet, is 70% of fresh water. If cattle were their own nation, published by Gaia they’d be the world’s third-largest emitter of and distributed greenhouse gases. Even if we magically switched locally by Jonathan to renewable energy overnight, much of the harm Ball Publishers. done by mass-scale agriculture would continue. It’s not just that we’re using too many of our resources. We’re spoiling them while we’re at it. lost their nutritional value: they had reduced zinc Just under a quarter of the world’s land is less and iron levels compared to normal crops. If the productive than it was because poor agricultural crops we grow have a lower nutritional value, methods have degraded it. Fifty million hectares we would have to grow more of them to feed the of forest were cleared between 1980 and 2000 same number of people, taking up more land and for farming and ranching, leaving about 68% of the emitting more greenhouse gases. world’s forests intact, compared to pre-industrial Climate change is expected to affect food Words: Book extract courtesy of the author and Jonathan Ball Publishers, Pictures: AGB Photo Library/Alamy, Supplied levels. Over half the ocean is used for commercial production in two ways: while gradual changes in fishing, and a third of all marine stocks are over- ambient temperature and weather patterns will fished. Food production drives much of the change adversely affect the crops which now grow best that is contributing to the Anthropocene’s erosion around the world, increasingly frequent extreme of the ecosystem we’ve known for millennia. weather conditions such as floods, hurricanes Our growing population exacerbates the problem. and droughts could wipe out regional food stocks entirely. The frequency of these ‘climatic shocks’ is estimated to triple by 2040. Such huge loss If food is the thread that runs through this of food in our extremely interconnected and syndemic, then we as consumers have the interdependent world will affect food availability ability to influence how it plays out. and prices. We are living on borrowed time, and we are borrowing that time from our children. The world’s Current projections predict the world population food systems are producing food that is harmful will hit ten billion by 2050. To feed us, scientists to us and to the planet as a viable ecosystem – an estimate that we’ll need to produce more food increasing population will worsen these effects. in the next 35 years than we have done in all of In a recent report produced by the World Obesity human history. Assuming we keep producing it Federation, the authors coined a new term to in the same way, this would require 120% more describe the synergistic interaction between the water and 42% more arable land than we now use; epidemics of obesity, malnutrition and climate it would also destroy 14% more forests and cause change: the Global Syndemic. 77% more greenhouse gas emissions. If food is the thread that runs through this However, in one experiment, cereal crops and syndemic, then we as consumers have the ability legumes were grown under changed atmospheric to influence how it plays out. Altering what we carbon dioxide levels. When scientists increased the eat means it is possible to ameliorate, maybe carbon dioxide up to the elevated levels forecast even reverse, the harms that we are enacting on to be the norm by 2050, they found that the crops ourselves and the planet. kulula.com APRIL 2021 43
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IDEAS GREAT & SMALL DISCOVER / innovate / disrupt / recycle / reimagine Home + away Go with the flow You’re running on air, buoyed by clouds. It’s that flow state, you can run forever. / ideas That’s Under Armour’s aim with its new Flow Velociti for our Wind shoes. The UA Flow changing + disrupts traditional designs by eliminating the rubber world outsole, and incorporating the lightest high-tech foam midsole available. Plus, their light, robust UA Warp uppers / the stuff are adaptive; supporting overlay tapes stiffen into you need tension only when required, in your relaxing when not in use – like a seatbelt on the foot. life right underarmour.co.za now kulula.com APRIL 2021 45
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