The Insiders' Guide - Unspoiled beaches, national parks, unique wildlife, rainforests and the extraordinary Outback await - World Nomads
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AUSTRALIA The Insiders’ Guide Unspoiled beaches, national parks, unique wildlife, rainforests and the extraordinary Outback await.
Welcome! From Broome in the far north to the Flinders Ranges in the south, join us as we explore the most breathtaking destinations across Australia. While many of us travel to escape obligations, journeying around Australia comes with responsibilities. In exchange for traveling Darwin in a responsible way, you’ll get to experience the very best of this huge country, and leave it in great shape & Overview Cairns Contents for the next generation, too. Broome We’ve deliberately left out NORTHERN TERRITORY info on major cities to QUEENSLAND encourage you to head away from WEATERN Alice Springs the urban centers AUSTRALIA Eastern Australia to explore the Brisbane SOUTH wonders of AUSTRALIA Australia. NEW SOUTH WALES Perth AUSTRALIAN Sydney CAPITAL Adelaide TERRITORY Canberra VICTORIA Melbourne Central Australia Outback & Contents Hobart TASMANIA Overview Victoria 33 Don’t Miss 3 Tasmania 37 Where to Stay 5 Queensland 42 Western Australia Transport 7 A Nomad’s Story 47 Festivals 11 Indigenous Culture 14 Outback & Central Australia 51 Cover image: Slot Canyon at Karijini National Park - Getty Images - Posnov Sustainable Travel Tips 16 South Australia 52 Australian Wildlife 18 Northern Territory 57 Safety 20 Visas 23 Western Australia 61 Insurance Tips Weather 24 Essential Insurance Tips 68 Eastern Australia 26 Our Contributors 70 NSW 27 See Our Other Guides 70 Australian Capital Territory 31 Need an Insurance Quote? 71 2
DON’T MISS 10 Unique Experiences See rock paintings while kayaking through in Australia Nitmiluk National Park, Getty Images/Whitworth Images Northern Territory (jump to page 60) Getty Images/janetteasche & Overview Contents Eastern Australia Challenge yourself on the four-day Three Capes Track, Tasmania Getty Images/by wildestanimal (jump to page 39) Central Australia Outback & Go diving with sea lions or sharks, South Australia Getty Images/John Crux Photography (jump to page 54) Western Australia Go hiking in Grampians National Park, Victoria (jump to page 35) Getty Images/John White Photos Insurance Tips Take a drive through the spectacular Flinders Ranges, South Australia (jump to page 55) 3
DON’T MISS Spot big crocodiles and tiny tree frogs in the Daintree National Park, Queensland (jump to page 42) Getty Images/John Crux Photography iStock/South_agency See natural and artificial pink lakes, Western Australia (jump to page 63) & Overview Contents Eastern Australia Getty Images/Max Shen Central Australia Getty Images/miroslav_1 Outback & Explore the incredible Walls of China, Outback NSW Getty Images/Boy Anupong (jump to page 30) Getty Images/Michael Fuller Western Australia See the incredible sandstone formations of Kings Canyon, Northern Territory (jump to page 60) Insurance Tips Stand inside the red-rock amphitheater of Cathedral Gorge, (jump to page 67) 4
Where to Stay Australia has a wide variety of places to stay to suit all budgets, from high-end luxury and beach houses, to campgrounds and hostels. & Overview Contents With festivals and events on year-round, it’s important to find out what’s going on, and book accommodation well in advance for big events like New Year’s Eve in Eastern Australia Milly McGrath Sydney. New South Wales mid-North Coast Hostels Hostels can vary greatly in standard a few weeks, think about house and size, so look at reviews and sharing which can be the most ratings on online booking sites, and affordable option for travelers and social media. At a minimum, they easier than trying to find a house Central Australia will offer free WiFi, a kitchen, shared with locals who don’t want to search Outback & bathrooms, and several dorm rooms, for a new flatmate every few months. and should be cheaper than hotels. Try flatmates.com.au or Domain. com.au to search for rooms, as Flats and house sharing well as Gumtree, the Australian If you’re looking to stay longer than equivalent of Craigslist. Western Australia Rent can be quoted weekly or monthly (it varies between cities), and the bond (deposit) is usually Hostels can four weeks or one month’s rent. If vary greatly you have an informal or short-term in standard agreement, try to negotiate on price. and size, Breaking formal leases can cost so look at you up to six weeks in rent (again, reviews Insurance Tips it varies by state), so make sure you and ratings know what you are agreeing to. on online Getty Images/Westend61 booking sites, Hotels and B&Bs and social Streets of Newtown, Sydney Hotels and bed and breakfasts in media. 5
Australia can be booked through the standard international booking sites; booking.com, hotels.com, Expedia, and TripAdvisor. Prices will climb when big events or festivals are on, so set a price alert if you’re working to a budget. Prices should be inclusive of goods and services tax (GST) and not have any other costs & Overview Contents on top unless you want parking, breakfast, or other services not Getty Images/Spaces included in the price. Outside of major cities, Australia Manly beach and the city beyond, Sydney has many affordable roadside motels and accommodation in pubs. It’s Eastern Australia worth booking or calling ahead, as book out early when events are towns can be long distances apart, on, in particular, music festivals. It’s and you don’t want to be stuck often illegal to camp on beaches or without somewhere to stay. in national parks without a permit, so always check online or with the AirBnbs locals before you set up camp. The Airbnb and other accommodation National Parks and Wildlife Service Central Australia sharing sites are legal in Australia, website has details of campgrounds Outback & although different states have in national parks around the different rules governing short-term country, which are often in beautiful rentals, and those rules continue locations. to evolve. In major cities, you might be able to find better-priced Western Australia accommodation in the suburbs, so Budgeting for Your Trip do a little research to make sure Generally, the east coast is the most affordable to travel, the west there’s suitable public transport to coast is the most expensive, and the Outback falls somewhere in between. Sydney has become the most expensive city in Australia, get to the things you want to see. followed by Melbourne, Darwin, Brisbane, and then Perth. Western Australia is generally more expensive than the other states. Expect Camping costs to increase the further from major towns and cities you travel. In the far north and extreme south, fuel will cost a little more. With so many national parks and To cut costs, research ways to work as you travel, drink glorious wide-open spaces across Australia, Insurance Tips goon (cheap wine in a cardboard box), eat two-minute noodles, and you’ll find numerous camping ask around hostels to see if backpackers are willing to share their contacts for car-sharing, or give you free camping gear that they grounds outside of major cities and don’t want to take home. regional centers. Most campsites will Never underestimate the hospitality of Australian people, many of have a website and can be booked whom offer couchsurfing and friendly advice. in advance. Popular campsites might 6
Transport Australia is made up of six states (including the island of Tasmania) and two territories, with 85% of the population living within 31mi (50km) of the coast. To see all 2,969,907mi2 (7,692,024km2) that make up & Overview Contents Australia’s massive continent, you’ll need a significant amount of time. Don’t set unrealistic goals to see the whole country in three months – it’s just not Getty Images/SolStock Eastern Australia going to happen. Melbourne CBD Going from Perth in the west to Sydney in the east is a long journey, you a lot of your hard-earned money. and there’s a whole lot of nothing During the high season, especially While the in between. The huge red Outback around Christmas and New Year summer desert cuts a gigantic swath through holidays, you’ll want to plan ahead. months Central Australia its middle, where Uluru is in the Accommodation books out months in Outback & provide the middle of nowhere. With so much advance, especially in Sydney. While best weather, ground to cover, there are many the summer months provide the best it also means ways to get around. Some methods weather, it also means peak tourist peak tourist of transport are fast and expensive, season; spring and fall may be your season; spring others are much slower but will save best bet to avoid heavy crowds. and fall may be your best Western Australia Public transport cards bet to avoid around Australia heavy crowds. Opal Cards can be used on all Sydney trains, buses and ferries, Trainlink services, all buses in the Blue Mountains, Central Coast, Hunter and Illawarra regions, Sydney Insurance Tips Light Rail and selected private ferries. In Victoria, a myki card can be Getty Images/Jodie Griggs used for trains, trams and buses in Melbourne and regional Victorian Flying over Brisbane centers. 7
& Overview Contents Getty Images/Jill Harrison Camper trailer, Western Australia Eastern Australia Use a Go Card on all Translink If you fly, be sure to check the buses, trains, ferries and tram carrier’s luggage weight limits, as Moving from services around Brisbane, Ipswich, many restrict carry-on bags to 7kg (15 city to city the Sunshine Coast and Gold Coast. pounds) in economy class, charging and state Use a prepaid Greencard to access extra fees if your bags weigh more. to state by transport in Hobart, MyWay will give Weight restrictions drop further when domestic flight you access to all buses in Canberra, you’re catching regional flights. is the most Central Australia a Metrocard will get you around the time-efficient Outback & city of Adelaide via train, tram or bus, Bus or coach way to see and a SmartRider card will get you Traveling by bus is the cheapest Australia. onto the public transport in Perth. way to get around, particularly if In Darwin, purchase a Tap and Ride you’re backpacking. Sit back, relax card to make catching buses easier – and admire the vast open road as Western Australia this can also be used in Alice Springs. someone else does the driving for you. However, be warned, bus Domestic flights journeys are long, so make sure Moving from city to city and state you have something to keep you to state by domestic flight is the entertained and travel in comfortable most time-efficient way to see clothes. Australia. Unfortunately, it’s also the Greyhound Australia is the most expensive. Qantas and Virgin country’s largest coach operator, Insurance Tips Australia are the biggest carriers, and the only long-distance national while Jetstar, Tigerair and Regional coach operator running services in Express (Rex) will get you there, too – all mainland states and territories. usually for less money and a bit less Choose a specific one-way or reliability. round-trip ticket or purchase one of 8
Greyhound’s Whimit passes. Choose the time period that works, ranging from 7 to 21, 45, 60, 90, 120 or even 365 days, and just go. It gives you unlimited consecutive travel on luxury buses, tricked out with air- conditioning, restrooms, WiFi and USB ports. It has coaches running all over the country, as long as you have & Overview Contents the time, they’ve got the coach to get you there. Many other tour companies offer comfortable coaches and guided tours in different parts of the country, Getty Images/FiledIMAGE often with local Indigenous guides Eastern Australia who will spark your imagination by The Ghan Railway, near Alice Springs weaving Dreamtime stories into the experience. by, rolling along tracks constructed Train travel in the 1870s that trace the railroad The Indian Train travel will be slightly more routes that opened up the country to Pacific is expensive than taking the bus, but European settlers. To experience that another Central Australia dining cars, lounges and sleeping history, ride The Ghan, the legendary luxury train Outback & berths on some routes make it a four-day, three-night journey from that rumbles more civilized way to go. Darwin to Adelaide (or vice versa), coast to coast, NSW Trainlink has connections complete with luxurious sleeping between Perth throughout the state and into cabin, fantastic food, and tour stops and Sydney neighbouring Victoria, Queensland along the way. Western Australia and ACT. In Victoria, V/Line operates The Indian Pacific is another luxury regional train services throughout the train that rumbles coast to coast, state. between Perth and Sydney, from the QueenslandRail covers a wide Indian Ocean to Pacific Ocean, on a network of tracks that can take you four-day, three-night adventure. The from the Gold Coast to Kuranda, or route opened in 1970, connecting the Rockhampton to Winton. east and west coasts on a single train Trains operate throughout for the first time. Insurance Tips Western Australia, linking travelers to the Northern Territory and South Driving Australia. Get used to driving on the left-hand Plus, certain trains are filled with side of the road so you can explore romance and hark back to days gone Australia by car or campervan (what 9
Useful Apps for a Road Trip Around Australia There are plenty of mobile phone apps to help guide you along the way, to campgrounds, caravan sites, national parks and & Overview Contents must-see sights, too. Try WikiCamps Australia for places to camp; HemaExplorer to download offline maps so you’re never lost, even Unsplash/Simon Rae Eastern Australia if your phone signal is gone; Manly Beach and Star Walk 2, the fantastic stargazing app Aussies call motorhome RVs), the of any emergencies. that shows you every constellation best way to explore everywhere from Check out online carshare options in Australia’s big cities to places so remote you’ll such as Car Next Door or Drive My Southern sky. wonder if there’s anybody out there. Car to see if you can save money and Central Australia For easy exploring, simply rent get around cheaper. These peer-to- Outback & a car at the airport and go, finding peer services are best for those who accommodation along the way or are getting around major cities, but booking it in advance. Always choose won’t be of much help for those of a full-to-full fuel policy, be flexible you who are doing longer road trips. with your pick-up location, keep the Mobile reception in Australia can Western Australia number of drivers to a minimum, and be spotty, especially in the country beware of extra surcharges. Read and Outback. Carry a paper map, your car hire paperwork thoroughly let someone know where you’re to be sure you aren’t caught out on heading, and when to expect your any sneaky details. return, and always fill up the petrol If you’re planning on an extended tank whenever you pass a petrol trip, you may find it cheaper to buy station in remote areas – sometimes a car or campervan. Check hostel/ it could be hundreds of miles before Insurance Tips campground notice boards for the next one. Always keep an eye vehicles for sale, and once you’re out for wildlife on or beside the road, done with it, sell it the same way you especially kangaroos which are most bought it. You’ll need to have car active at dawn and dusk, and can insurance to drive legally, and in case cause a major accident if hit. 10
Festivals Calendar Australians love a party, so it should come as no surprise that the festival scene is as eclectic as the landscape that’s the backdrop for many of the country’s best events. Music festivals New Years Eve’s annual Falls Festival has expanded from the Victorian town of Lorne to beachside towns in & Overview Contents three other states: Marion Bay (TAS), Byron Bay (NSW), and Fremantle (WA). The three-day festivals have a Glastonbury vibe, with camping, great headliners, and a convivial atmosphere. Unsplash/Simon Rae Tamworth Country Music Festival has been celebrating the sound and spirit of the bush each January since 1972. Eastern Australia Vivid Sydney In addition to big international and local names, the NSW town gives itself over entirely to the festival, with multiple buskers and extra events. WOMADelaide is a contemporary music festival of global sounds and conscious living for all ages, held in Adelaide’s Botanic Gardens each March. In April and May, Groovin the Moo music festival is Central Australia held over three weekends in the picturesque regional Outback & centers of the Hunter Valley (NSW), Townsville (QLD), and Bendigo (VIC). Getty Images/Lisa Maree Williams Also in April, Byron Bay Bluesfest is a relaxed, family- friendly festival and arts celebration. The hippie haven is also home to Splendour in the Grass, with a Coachella- Buskers at Tamworth Country Music Festival Western Australia like line-up of musical talent, held each July. Deni Ute Muster, NSW Deni = the town of Deniliquin; ute = utility (like an SUV); muster = 20,000 people descending on a small community to celebrate Outback culture. Two decades ago, when the region struggled through a crippling drought, locals came up with the idea of a Insurance Tips Getty Images/Brook Mitchell/Stringer festival to generate an alternative source of income to farming, and the uniquely Australian Ute Muster was born. A full program includes chainsaw carving, wood chopping, Australian wildlife shows, and, of course, car exhibitions Deni Ute Muster and racing. The free camping is a bonus after the 11
eight-hour drive from Sydney, but don’t expect to sleep. Outback Camel Races, NT Camels have been raced in the Outback since the 19th century, when, what is now the largest herd of camels in the world, was transported from Asia to be used for labor. Check out the Uluru Camel Cup each May, while the Queensland season begins in July, with weekly carnivals in Bedourie, Boulia, and Winton. As well as the races, & Overview Contents there’s plenty of food, drink, music and more. Camping is free on site for ticket holders. Getty Images/masterskyBeard Beer Can Regatta, NT Darwin’s Beer Can Regatta started in 1974 when 22,000 people turned out at Mindil Beach to watch boats, made Eastern Australia Camel in the Outback of beer cans, race and often fall apart. Today, it’s even more popular and has expanded to include a thong- throwing competition (flip-flops), live music, and plenty of drinking – it’s hot up there. Henley-on-Todd Regatta, NT The annual Henley-on-Todd Regatta has been held in the Central Australia Todd River’s dry creek bed since 1964. What was once Outback & GettyImages/Lisa Maree Williams considered a joke to outsiders, who didn’t understand that the Todd is usually a waterless riverway, has turned into the only dry boat race in the world. Competitors race Henley-on-Todd Regatta their vehicles on foot, like the cars in The Flintstones. Dark Mofo, TAS Western Australia In Tasmania, the winter solstice is celebrated at Hobart’s Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) with the 10-day Dark Mofo festival. Ticketed art events and free talks are held around the city, and festival highlights include the Winter Feast, a three-night nod to pagan tradition, and the Nude Solstice Swim in the Derwent River. Brrr. Insurance Tips Elvis Festival, NSW Every January, the NSW country town of Parkes gets all shook up by the music of The King at the five-day Parkes Elvis Festival. The festival celebrates the music and legend Ali Atkinson Dark MOFO of Elvis Presley with car shows, rock ‘n’ roll dancing, and 12
couples renewing their vows as Elvis and Priscilla. Aussies Love Racing Things Every week, in Port Douglas and Broken Heel Festival, NSW Tambourine in Queensland, cane toads are raced at local pubs. In Berry Springs, Disco divas head to this desert festival, in the NSW in the Northern Territory, people bet on Outback town of Broken Hill, to celebrate the cult film crocodiles racing to the edge of a ring, while at Brisbane’s famous Story Bridge Hotel, Priscilla, Queen of the Desert which was partly filmed cockroaches are raced. Or, if you prefer here. For one weekend each September, the festival something bigger, the Melbourne Cup horse offers comedy, cabaret and live music. Get in early for race, aka ‘the race that stops the nation’, is held on the first Tuesday of November each tickets on the Stiletto train from Sydney, or look for buses & Overview year and is a public holiday in Victoria. Contents from Adelaide and other major cities. Wide Open Space, NT Head to Ross River Resort in the East MacDonnell Ranges, 52mi (85km) east of Alice Springs, each May to experience Wide Open Space, one of Australia’s most Eastern Australia unique events. Since 2009, this three-day festival has Getty Images/Christopher Chan celebrated the unique desert culture of central Australia through music, art and culture, and features a selection of artists and performers who wouldn’t normally travel to the Sculpture Symposium in Broken Hill Australian Outback. Central Australia Year-round Festivals at a Glance Outback & ACT NSW NT QLD SA TAS VIC WA Tamworth & JAN Elvis festivals FEB Western Australia Illuminations, WOMADelaide MAR Canberra Byron Bay Groovin the Moo, Groovin the Moo, APR Bluesfest Townsville Bendigo & Groovin the Moo, Uluru Camel Cup MAY Hunter Valley & Wide Open Space JUN Splendour in the Darwin Camel racing JUL Grass, Byron Bay Beer Can Regatta season begins Henley on Todd AUG Regatta Insurance Tips Deni Ute Muster SEP & Broken Heel OCT Dark Mofo, NOV Hobart Design Canberra Falls NYE Festival, Falls NYE Festival, Falls NYE Festival, Falls NYE Festival, DEC Festival Byron Bay Marion Bay Lorne Fremantle 13
Indigenous Culture The essence of Australia’s Indigenous cultural treasures lies in the complex relationship between Indigenous people, their connection to Country & Overview Contents (the Aboriginal wording for land and living things), and kindred species embraced in totems and spiritual beliefs. Getty Images/SheraleeS Totems can be a natural object, Eastern Australia plant or animal and are inherited by Aboriginal rock art at Carnarvon Gorge, Queensland members of a clan group as their spiritual emblem. Totems define roles and responsibilities within the clan, Acknowledging Aboriginal people and their relationships with each as the Traditional Custodians of In 2017, the other and creation. Often called Australia demonstrates a positive Traditional “the Dreaming”, these complex understanding, and opens doors to Owners of Central Australia spiritual belief systems are the laws an even more valuable Aboriginal Outback & Uluru (also Indigenous people live by and the cultural experience. In regional known as basis for their ability to thrive in a Australia, especially where cultural Ayers Rock) diverse and often harsh environment. practices are strong, visitors should decided ask for permission to visit certain to stop all History places and take photographs. climbing on the huge Western Australia Aboriginal Australia has suffered In 2017, the Traditional Owners of greatly from the impacts of Uluru (also known as Ayers Rock) sandstone colonization, and understanding decided to stop all climbing on the formation, some of this history is important for huge sandstone formation, with a ban with a ban any traveler who wants to understand coming into effect in October 2019. coming real Aboriginal Australia. Visitors Visitors are welcome to appreciate into effect should learn about the massacres, Uluru as a cultural site, and come in October the policy of assimilation, the ready to listen and learn about 2019. Insurance Tips internment on missions, the removal ancient wisdom, and connections of Indigenous children from their that go deep into this ancient land. families, and the work conditions that Removal of rocks and artefacts occurred on pastoral leases and in from this sacred region is taboo domestic service. and considered a great insult to 14
Traditional Custodians and a breach about Aboriginal culture. of cultural lore. In Tasmania, book a tour You can with Wukalina Walk, by Palawa learn how to Authentic Indigenous tours Enterprises, to walk with a Palawa identify plants Kuku Yalanji Cultural Habitat Tours Aboriginal guide while exploring the used for bush in Far North Queensland, offer spectacular Bay of Fires. tucker (food) authentic insights into traditional and medicine, fishing grounds on a walk through Indigenous culture in cities and the daily the mangroves. You can also learn Take a guided walk through Sydney’s local traditions & Overview Contents how to identify plants used for bush Botanic Gardens with Aboriginal of the local tucker (food) and medicine, and Bush Food Experience, and at people. the daily local traditions of the local Sydney’s Barangaroo, Aboriginal people. Cultural Tours show how Indigenous In Broome, Western Australia, history, culture and connections Bart Pigram runs Narlijia Cultural survive despite urban development. Eastern Australia Tours, and helps travelers learn On Queensland’s Gold Coast, about fascinating stories of life experience the interactive around Roebuck Bay from his unique Dreamworld Corroboree. In Cairns, perspective. millions of visitors have seen In South Australia, Quenten Agius performances and dance at Tjapukai of Aboriginal Cultural Tours will walk Cultural Park. you across the beautiful country of Central Australia the Yorke Peninsula and Outback Outback & South Australia, sharing Dreaming Taste Indigenous Food Native foods are gaining attention for their stories that bring the landscape to high nutritional value and unique flavors, life, and demonstrate his people’s with celebrity chefs capitalizing on their occupation of Country for thousands exotic and nutritional profiles. Indigenous chefs such as Mark Olive, Clayton Donovan, of years. Rayleen Brown and Josh Whiteland ensure Noma’s Rene Redzepi food Western Australia Lirrwi Tourism in northeast Arnhem Aboriginal expertise stays front and center foraging in South Australia of the native foods phenomenon. Kungkas Land, Northern Territory offers Can Cook in Alice Springs, Koomal Dreaming in the Margaret adventures in culture, including a River region of Western Australia, and Charcoal Lane Restaurant in day tour to the Bawaka Homeland Melbourne are all worth a visit. with a Traditional Owner, or a yidaki Unique fruits, vegetables and spices, that have been harvested and traded for thousands of years, are now becoming available to (didjeridu) masterclass as part of a wider markets. While these are seasonal and generally in limited small group tour. supply, items such as lemon myrtle, saltbush, quandongs and bush In Victoria, look for Brambuk limes are in high demand. Insurance Tips Known as emu apples or native cranberries, muntries are a low- Aboriginal Cultural Centre located growing shrub found on the south coast of Australia. When ripe, in the Grampians National Park the berries are green with a red tinge and have the flavor of spicy (Gariwerd). You can book an apples. These tasty little berries are high in antioxidants, (four times that of blueberries), and can be eaten fresh or used in many Aboriginal rock art tour and try native sweet and savory dishes. foods at the café, all while learning 15
Sustainable Travel Tips Beyond the obvious universal commandments of travel (not littering, avoiding plastic bag use, respecting local culture) here are some tips for a low- & Overview Contents impact journey Down Under. Respect quarantine laws Think that apple in your backpack is no big deal? Think again. As an Getty Images/seanscott island nation, Australia has some Eastern Australia of the strictest quarantine laws in Kangaroo on the beach, Esperance, WA the world, designed to protect the country’s biodiversity, and fines and confiscation of materials are strictly installed vehicle wash-down bays enforced. and boot cleaning stations to stop Beyond Carefully read your arrivals card invasive species from entering airports and and declare anything you’re unsure national parks. state borders, Central Australia about (such as plant materials and Outback & many national food). Beyond airports and state Respecting culture parks require borders, many national parks require and traditions hikers to wash hikers to wash their boots to avoid From the seafaring saltwater their boots to cross-contamination between people of the north to the inland avoid cross- ecosystems. Many states have communities of the Central Desert, contamination between Western Australia hundreds of Indigenous tribes and language groups make up modern- ecosystems. day Australia. As always, travel with an open mind, a curious nature, and generous spirit, and you’ll be in a good place to learn about Australia’s rich Indigenous culture. Insurance Tips Whenever you encounter Indigenous communities, always seek permission before taking photos Katie McIntosh of people, rock art, and sacred Mataranka Thermal Pools, Queensland sites. Support Indigenous talent by 16
& Overview Contents GettyImages/John Crux Photography Eastern Australia Bald Head Walking trail, Albany, Western Australia buying art directly from artists or and not picked up. Avoid wildlife from galleries that pay artists a fair venues that encourage interaction. Foraging for price for their work. Find Indigenous- When driving in rural areas, be food might be owned tour operators to learn from wary of native wildlife which often all the rage Indigenous guides. wanders onto roads. Kangaroos are in culinary Central Australia Sidestep that cheap, mass- most active at dawn and dusk, so Outback & circles, but produced souvenir boomerang, stay extra vigilant if you are on the picking probably made in a factory overseas, road at those times. Australian and buy the real deal from an Foraging for food might be all the native plants Indigenous artisan instead. rage in culinary circles, but picking without a Australian native plants without a license is Respecting native wildlife and illegal in most Western Australia license is illegal in most states. Even the environment something as innocent as picking states. Leaving a place in the same (if not wildflowers can interrupt nature’s better) state than you found it is regeneration cycle. recommended no matter where you Fishing without a permit is illegal are traveling. in many states, so, before throwing Australia’s native animals are a in a line, check the local laws and big drawcard for visitors, and they always follow size and bag limits for Insurance Tips deserve to be treated like the animal your catch. royalty they are. Even though koalas Never remove seashells or coral as and wombats look cuddly, they are a souvenir; make a bigger impact and easily stressed by human interaction, pick up some litter instead. Australia should only be admired in the wild will thank you for it. 17
Australian Wildlife (That Won’t Kill You) While Australia is well-known for its many dangerous creatures, it is also home to some of the world’s most adorable, beautiful, and captivating animals. Wildlife of the Australian Outback Thorny devil lizards move across the sand in search for ants, greater bilbies construct extensive underground & Overview Contents tunnel systems, and large perentie goannas prey on just about anything they can catch. Perenties have been known to even take down large wombats, kangaroos, and dingoes. If you camp out in the Outback, you’ll hear the howls of Megan Jerrard dingoes echoing across the landscape. You’ll also come Eastern Australia Red kangaroos across the world’s largest herd of feral camels, which were introduced to Australia in the 19th century from India and Afghanistan for transport and work in the Outback. They were replaced by motorised vehicles in the early 20th century and released into the wild. Wildlife of Tropical North Queensland Central Australia Australia’s dry Outback interior gives way to the world’s Outback & oldest rainforest in Tropical North Queensland. A visit to the Daintree Rainforest is like stepping back into the age Megan Jerrard of dinosaurs. Eclectus parrot You half expect to come across a towering T-Rex but instead, you must settle for the prehistoric-looking Western Australia cassowary. These flightless birds can be more than 6ft (1.8m) tall, and the southern cassowaries of Australia can inflict serious injuries with their dagger-like claws if provoked or while protecting their young. Unlike most birds, it is the male cassowaries that incubate and care for the young, while the females live solitary lives. While their kick may be dangerous, cassowaries would much rather browse the forest floor for various fruits. Give them a bit Insurance Tips of space while you admire these giants, with their colorful heads, adorned with extraordinary casques. Kangaroos take to the trees in tropical North Pixabay/MartinStr Queensland where, if you’re lucky, you might catch a Koala glimpse of a threatened Lumholtz’s or Bennett’s 18
tree-kangaroo. You almost wonder if they are trying to climb to get a better glimpse of the shimmering blue Ulysses butterfly or the vibrantly colored Eclectus parrot that grace the canopy. Wildlife in the Northern Territory The wetlands of Kakadu National Park are home to hundreds of bird species including brolgas, black-necked storks, and vibrant Gouldian finches. You may also & Overview Getty Images/Richard Sharrocks Contents come across a frill-necked lizard trying to steal some of the attention when it displays its threatening mane. As darkness falls, giant flying foxes take to the skies to Cassowary provide a moving concert of sound. You might feel quite small in the Top End, due to the sheer expanse of the landscape and also when standing Eastern Australia next to the towering natural skyscrapers created by cathedral termites. These termite mounds can reach 26ft (8m) in height and can remain active for up to 100 years. Wildlife of Tasmania Australia’s island state provides the opportunity to see Getty Images/kuritafsheen many species which have become endangered or extinct Central Australia on the mainland. It’s known as the ‘land of the devil’ Outback & Frill necked lizard after its most notable inhabitant, the Tasmanian devil, a marsupial carnivore with an intimidating personality. This once common, and loveable, species has seen a rapid decline in its population due to a detrimental facial tumor disease that has spread across Tasmania. Western Australia While searching for the devil, you will probably come across the adorable small kangaroo-like pademelon, as well as marsupials the potoroo, bandicoot, and bettong. The island is also home to both of the world’s only egg-laying mammals – the duck-billed platypus and the spiky echidna. The platypus, a creature which looks like it was pieced together from a box of leftover animal parts, is generally shy, and often nocturnal on the mainland, but Insurance Tips can be spotted more often in Tasmania. It’s too late to spot one of Tasmania’s most iconic animals, the thylacine (or Tasmanian tiger). The last known Megan Jerrard surviving thylacine died in the Hobart Zoo on September Tasmanian Devil 7, 1936. It was declared extinct in 1982. 19
Safety Long stretches of roads through the Outback, dense bush and the freedom to drive, hike and camp (seemingly) wherever you want to might seem like a great idea, but it has caused problems for many unprepared & Overview Contents travelers in the past. Getty Images/John Crux Photography Road trip preparation One of the best ways to experience Australia is on a road trip, but don’t Lucky Bay in Cape le Grand National Park, Western Australia underestimate Australia’s size, the Eastern Australia distances between destinations, and the rough terrain. The best way equipment, off-road recovery gear, to ensure road trip success is to be and stay up to date with information prepared. about weather and hazards on the It’s easy to drive around Victoria, road. but while the state is compact, Huge distances between towns the distances can be deceptive, means accessing fuel and fresh Central Australia particularly in the High Country water can be difficult in the Outback. Outback & where you’ll need to drive slowly Avoid being stranded by the side along windy roads. of the road by carrying ample water There are huge areas of Australia and fuel to get you through your that have no internet and phone trip. Crossing the Nullarbor Plain coverage, so your smartphone will in a banged up, old hatchback you Western Australia often be rendered useless. Go old bought off a guy in a pub isn’t wise, school and carry paper maps as a and could find you becoming the backup. Always tell someone about subject of a cautionary tale on the your travel plans, so they can alert evening news. Instead, hire an all- the authorities if you don’t turn up terrain vehicle well-suited to travel on While driving when you’re meant to. If you’re going unsealed roads. around off-road, into the desert or camping While driving around Western Western in remote bushland, consider hiring Australia, be prepared for vast Australia, Insurance Tips a satellite phone to stay in touch. distances between fuel stops, be prepared Renting a 4WD vehicle is the safest communities, and towns with for vast way to experience any road trip that accommodation. Perth to Broome distances goes into the desert, but ensure you is almost 1,500mi (2,414km), while between fuel have the latest maps, emergency Perth to Esperance clocks in at 470mi stops. 20
Australian sun. Red, roasted Brits and The Europeans on Australian beaches emergency are a common sight, but this can be number in prevented. Always slip, slop, slap; slip Australia is on a shirt, slop on water-resistant, broad spectrum sunscreen (at least 000 (or 112) 30+) and slap on a hat. It’s essential which puts to cover up and protect your skin you in from the UV rays during the hottest touch with & Overview Contents ambulance, Katie McIntosh parts of the day (between 10am - Jumping Crocodile Cruise, Northern Territory police and 3pm). Seek shade where possible fire. and always stay hydrated. (756km). Make a strategic plan and Sunburn is painful, and can take plot out the location of roadhouses days or weeks to go away depending if you’re venturing into remote on the severity. Melanoma (skin Eastern Australia locations. Most roadhouses offer fuel cancer) is a major issue in Australia 24/7, as well as accommodation and with an estimated 14,000 cases bathroom facilities. diagnosed each year. Total fire bans Where not to swim During bushfire season, Australia’s On a blistering hot day, the rivers, dry heat turns the country into a beaches and billabongs of Australia Central Australia tinderbox. Knowing when a Total are unbelievably tempting – but Outback & Fire Ban is declared is essential. think before jumping in. From Displayed on local government crocodiles to strong currents and websites, news bulletins, and submerged rocks, hidden dangers highway signage, a Total Fire Ban lurk in Australia’s waterways. Always means exactly that – don’t light swim between the yellow and red Western Australia a fire. Even throwing a cigarette flags at patrolled beaches as these butt out of a car window can have are the designated safe spots, and On a catastrophic results including never swim when you’ve been on blistering endangering lives, wildlife, and the booze. Read the signs – many hot day, homes. If you build a campfire (only rivers and lakes look serene but the rivers, where and when allowed), always hide strong currents. Don’t put a beaches and extinguish it properly with water, and foot into any body of water in Far billabongs of bury the embers with soil or sand. North Queensland or the Northern Australia are Insurance Tips Territory without first asking a local, a unbelievably Sun safety ranger or reading signs – Australia’s tempting While an Australian summer will 200,000-plus population of saltwater – but think do wonders for your tan, don’t crocodiles live here but can be before underestimate the harshness of the avoided by swimming where it’s safe. jumping in. 21
Sharks Despite all the media hype, sharks aren’t a big problem in Australia. You’re statistically more likely to end up in a car accident going to the beach than being bitten by a shark, however there are things you can do to be shark smart while enjoying the Getty Images/wildestanimal ocean: & Overview Contents • Avoiding the ocean around dawn Great White Shark and dusk is a myth – incidents can happen any time of day • Don’t swim after rain, when run- pain of a bluebottle sting, seek first off reduces water visibility, or if the aid immediately. Don’t rub the sting You’re water is murky area. Try to pick off the tentacles with Eastern Australia statistically • Avoid areas where there is fish tweezers and immerse the sting area more likely to feeding going on e.g. visible bait in hot water (as hot as you can stand) end up in a balls, which attracts smaller marine or pack with ice. car accident animals, with larger ones like sharks Irukandjis and box jellyfish are going to the following too. Birds dive bombing mainly found up in the waters of beach than are a clue northern Australia and as far south being bitten • Always swim or surf in a group as the Whitsundays, with numbers Central Australia by a shark. • Only swim at a patrolled beach, and peaking during November to Outback & obey all directives from authorities May, however they are found all if a shark has been sighted, and year around. Irukandjis are more calmly leave the water transparent and smaller than • If a beach is closed, it’s closed. bluebottles, which makes them hard Don’t disobey the signage or to see in the water, and their sting Western Australia warnings by authorities. causes localised pain, disorientation, respiratory distress, and more. Box Bluebottles and other stingers jellyfish are bigger than Irukandjis, and Bluebottles are a common sight their sting is reportedly more painful, on Australia’s beaches during the and causes noticeable wounds. summer, with armadas of these If you are stung by Irukandji or a iridescent blue, long-tentacled box jellyfish, immediate first aid is creatures washing up on the beach. vital. Call 000 and rinse the area Insurance Tips Copping a sting is painful, and many with vinegar. Carefully remove the people accidentally step on them tentacles with tweezers. Reassure the while walking near the shore, or get patient and keep them calm. Perform stung while swimming in the ocean. CPR if necessary until medical help If you happen to experience the arrives. 22
Visas If you are not from Australia or New Zealand, you will require a visa and valid passport to enter the country. Tourism and business visas For tourism or business purposes, & Overview Contents you can apply for three different types of visas: Electronic Travel Authority (subclass 601), eVisitor (subclass 651), Visitor visa (subclass 600). Before arriving in Australia, all Eastern Australia travelers must fill out an Incoming Passenger Card, which includes Getty Images/bamse009 declarations about health and character. It’s important to obey all Hikers on Fraser Island Australian laws attached to the visa while traveling. If you overstay your visa, you will Subclass 417. Check online to see Central Australia face penalties. If you wish to stay which visa subclass your nationality Outback & Living and longer than your original visa will qualifies you for. Many nationalities working in allow, you need to apply for a further can apply online through the Australia is a visa. If, however, you have a ‘No Australian Department of Immigration dream come further stay’ condition on your visa, and Border Protection website. true for many, you must leave Australia no later than However, not all can apply online and and you can make it Western Australia the date on which your visa ends, must instead file a paper application. and re-apply once you’ve left the Check the Department of Immigration reality with country. website to see if you can apply for a working your visa online. holiday visa. Working holiday visas Some nationalities must lodge their Living and working in Australia is a visa applications at the Australian dream for many travelers, and you Immigration office within their own can make it reality with a working country or a nearby country. Not Insurance Tips holiday visa. If you’re under the age every applicant will be accepted of 31 you may qualify to live and work for a Working Holiday Visa. Some in Australia for up to two years. countries have a limited number Australia has two different Working of visas available per year. But you Holiday Visas: Subclass 462 and won’t know if you don’t try! 23
Weather Don’t ruin your chances of reaching incredible national parks in Australia’s far north during the wet season or missing out on hiking in Tasmania during winter; plan ahead for all your activities by & Overview Contents choosing the best season for your destinations. The Top End The Northern Territory, Far North Getty Images/Boy_Anupong Queensland, and northern reaches Eastern Australia of Western Australia all experience the wet season from November to Dawn in the bushland of the Northern Territory April, with high humidity, scorching temperatures, and heavy rainfall. Travelers should expect some roads From December to February, Perth to be closed because of flooding, doesn’t receive much rainfall, so your The dry and be aware that tropical cyclones chance of catching an incredible season, Central Australia could form off the coast of Australia, Western Australian sunset over the Outback & from May causing widespread damage across ocean are high. to October, the region. The wet season is a great sees low time for photography with lightning Queensland rainfall, and flashing across darkened skies and The climate on Queensland’s low humidity. raging waterfalls. southern coast ranges from Waterholes and rivers in Western Australia The dry season, from May to comfortable cool temperatures in October, sees low rainfall, and low winter to hot and dry summers. Warm this area dry humidity. Waterholes and rivers in temperatures both in and out of the up, making this area dry up, making access to sea can be enjoyed throughout the access to the remote spots of the Northern year, keeping keen surfers, hikers the remote Territory much easier. and swimmers happy, year-round. spots of the Northern Western Australia New South Wales Territory Insurance Tips Perth enjoys hot, dry summers and The seasons in New South Wales much easier. mild winters. Be prepared for heavy are usually pretty predictable, with rain and potential thunderstorms occasionally freezing temperatures during winter (June to August), when in winter, scorching hot summers, the temperatures inevitably drop. moderate weather in fall, and 24
(arguably) the most enjoyable climate in spring. Of course, don’t expect to have the beaches and hiking trails to yourself during the months of December and January, when tourists flock to Australia for the warm weather. But, if you find some hidden gems along the NSW coast, you’ll be able to enjoy warm temperatures and & Overview Contents no crowds. Victoria During winter (June, July and August), it’s the perfect time to head to the ski Getty Images/Adnan Vejzovic fields of the Victorian High Country. Eastern Australia Melbourne’s weather is famously temperamental, with wild winds, Paragliding at Stanwell Tops, New South Wale s heavy rain, and freezing temperatures surprising locals year-round. Don’t be surprised if insane heat waves Tasmania bring the city to a halt in summer – The weather in Tasmania can often Of course, remember, you’re in Australia. When change dramatically without much don’t expect Central Australia the weather is warmer in December, notice. Just in case, always pack Outback & to have the January and February, head to the wet weather gear and warm clothes. beaches and coast for a surf or enjoy a beautiful Tasmania will also, quite literally, blow hiking trails coastal walk along the Mornington you away with strong gusty winds to yourself Peninsula. – known as the Roaring Forties – during the and the west coast is famous for its months of South Australia December Western Australia torrential rain. South Australia experiences mild Summer runs from December to and January. winters and a warm, dry summer. February, and is typically the best Rainfall is sparse from December time to go hiking. From March to May, to February, and temperatures the leaves turn red and yellow. If you will occasionally soar above 104ºF want to see humpback whales on (40ºC). Try visiting in fall (March their migratory path, visit during May, to May) for pleasant weather and June and July, or later in the year Insurance Tips very little rainfall. Snow is rare in between September and November. South Australia, but occasionally the Temperatures drop in winter (June Adelaide Hills will receive a dusting to August), and snowfall turns the between the months of June and wild landscapes into a snow-covered August. wonderland. 25
Cradle Mountain, Tasmania & Overview Contents Eastern Australia EASTERN Central Australia Outback & AUSTRALIA iStock/LukeWaitPhotography HH Western Australia F rom the country’s longest and deepest cave systems in Tasmania, the tropical landscape of the Daintree Rainforest in Queensland and the laid-back country and beach towns of New South Wales, Australia’s east has Insurance Tips so much to explore on land and water; you just need to know where to go. You’ll probably arrive in Sydney, Melbourne or Brisbane, but then head out of the city to have an Australian- sized adventure. 26
NEW SOUTH WALES New South Wales Home to some of Australia’s best beaches, hundreds of national parks, six World Heritage Areas, and fascinating Outback towns, New South Wales is best explored & Overview Contents by car. Rent a car in Sydney and Getty Images/lovleah set off to explore the state with Blue Mountains National Park your own set of wheels. Explore the Illawarra region a challenge, hike down the Golden Drive south of Sydney to explore Stairs and climb Mount Solitary Eastern Australia If you want Royal National Park with its miles for 360-degree views down the a cave of bushwalking tracks and beautiful Megalong Valley. experience beaches. The world’s second-oldest On the western edge of the Blue without the national park is great for hiking, Mountains, you’ll find the country crowds, head mountain biking, surfing, and whale town of Lithgow. Nearby, Hassan’s 40 minutes watching. A little further south the Walls Lookout is the highest in the north of dramatic Grand Pacific Drive takes Blue Mountains, offering panoramic Lithgow to Central Australia in the quiet surf towns of Thirroul, views of the national park. An hour the Glow Outback & Austinmer, Stanwell Park and south, Jenolan Caves is a 24mi Worm Coledale. You can go skydiving over (40km) network of ancient limestone Tunnels in Wollongong, visit Dharawal National caves containing Silurian marine Newnes Park for hiking and wild swimming, fossils and massive calcite formation. Plateau. hang gliding in Stanwell Tops, and But, if you want a cave experience Western Australia head to Budderoo National Park for a without the crowds, head 40 minutes birdwatching rainforest walk. north of Lithgow to the Glow Worm Tunnels in Newnes Plateau. Blue Mountains National Park Each year, millions of people head Kangaroo Valley and Jervis Bay west from Sydney to the Blue In the Shoalhaven region of NSW, Mountains to see the famous Three about two hours from Sydney and Sisters in the World Heritage-listed Canberra, Kangaroo Valley is a lush Insurance Tips Greater Blue Mountains Area. Escape paradise of rainforests and green the crowds in Blackheath to enjoy pastures, perfect for camping and great food and the breathtaking bushwalking. There’s a great village views of the Grose Valley from pub, and you can canoe or kayak Evans Lookout. Or, if you’re up for along the Kangaroo River with 27
NEW SOUTH WALES Getty Images/chameleonseye & Overview Contents Carlotta Arch, Jenolan Caves Kangaroo Valley Safaris. Check the weather, the Snowtunes Music out the many festivals and markets Festival kicks off the coldest season Eastern Australia throughout the year, including the of the year with music, bright lights, lively Folk Festival every October. and lots of booze. Shop for arts and crafts, listen to folk The Snowys are also a hiking, bands from around Australia, and horse riding, cycling and fishing enjoy poetry readings. hotspot in the summer months. While Get those legs moving and lace up you’re in Kosciuszko National Park, your hiking boots for a walk along the hike to the top of mainland Australia’s Central Australia Griffins Fire Trail in Morton National highest peak, Mount Kosciuszko. Outback & Park or Cooks Nose in Barren The 8-mi return (13km) hike isn’t too Grounds Nature Reserve. demanding on the knees and offers One hour further south is Jervis spectacular views of the mountains Bay National Park, brilliant for scuba and surrounding countryside. diving with weedy seadragons and The old mining town Western Australia cuttlefish, dolphin spotting, and walking along the impossibly white of Newcastle sand at Hyams Beach. Back on the coast, two hours north of Sydney, the city of Newcastle is While you’re The Snowy Mountains the gateway to the Hunter Valley, in Kosciuszko Some of Australia’s best ski fields and is famous for its beautiful surf National await in the Snowy Mountains in the beaches. Here, nightlife is happening, Park, hike state’s south. Thredbo and Perisher beaches are quieter, and parking is to the top Insurance Tips are popular ski resorts, and each much easier to find. Take a stroll up of mainland year during winter, locals cross to Nobbys Lighthouse, established Australia’s their fingers in hope for a good in 1858, to enjoy coastal views and highest snow season. On the first weekend to learn about the history of the land peak, Mount of winter each year, regardless of dating back to the Dreamtime. Take Kosciuszko. 28
NEW SOUTH WALES beachside camping, fishing, whale watching and swimming in Arakoon An hour National Park before heading north. north of Dive at Fish Rock with its cave swim- Newcastle, through, and swim among the large Port schools of fish and many types of Stephens is a subtropical and tropical marine life. quiet coastal Getty Images/John White Photos town with Coffs Harbour excellent & Overview Contents Byron Bay Lighthouse Coffs Harbour, 240mi (540 km) north whale of Sydney, is dominated by farmland watching. and banana plantations, and the a detour inland to the Hunter Valley only place in NSW where the Great to relax with a glass of wine at one of Dividing Range meets the Pacific Australia’s oldest wineries. Ocean. Eastern Australia Surrounded by national parks and Go sandboarding marine reserves, check out nearby in Port Stephens Bellingen River and Dorrigo national An hour north of Newcastle, Port parks, and take in the view from the Stephens is a quiet coastal town mountains to the sea from the Forest with excellent whale watching, May Sky Pier at Sealy Lookout. through November, watersports, and If you’re looking for a challenge, Central Australia fishing. For an adrenaline rush, go the Yuraygir Coastal Walk, covering Outback & sandboarding at Worimi Regional 40mi (65km) of coastline, takes Park (also known as Stockton Sand four days to complete, and is home Dunes) or join a quad biking tour, with to many rare wetland creatures, a company owned and operated by likes the eastern ground parrot and Indigenous communities. eastern grass owl. Western Australia Go diving offshore from Coffs Barrington Tops Harbour to Solitary Islands Marine and South West Rocks Park, where the warm tropical waters Venture inland to Barrington Tops of the Great Barrier Reef meet the National Park, where, during winter, cooler waters from the south. Here, a snow falls on the campsites and great mix of tropical and subtropical bushwalking trails. If you’ve got a marine life merge, with colorful corals, 4WD, get the paint dirty on some of sponges and anemones, schools of Insurance Tips the muddy tracks – but don’t attempt fish, sharks, turtles, giant cuttlefish, them without off-road equipment. rays, and eels can be seen. Drive east towards the coast again to explore the history of Trial Bay Byron Bay Gaol in South West Rocks, and enjoy Chill out in the surf town of Byron Bay 29
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