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TOURING TOURISM MAGAZINE & HERITAGE BURGUNDY-FRANCHE-COMTÉ DISCOVER I ADMIRE I FEEL FAMOUS TRIPS OUT CITY WALKS SIGNATURES INTO NATURE
CONTENTS ❙ 04 Burgundy-Franche-Comté takes you on journeys ❙ 06 UNESCO, 8 properties listed as World Heritage ❙ 11 Destination Dijon 18 "I feel at home in Belfort" ❙ 12 For city walks, follow the guide! ❙ 14 ❙ 44 ❙ 58 In the footsteps of Vauban 10 wonderful ideas for trips It’s child’s play out into nature ❙ 15 in Burgundy-Franche-Comté ❙ 60 Rebellious and daring Besançon What if we went to the château… ❙ 47 on foot, on horseback, by bike or Rebels & Resistance by boat? ❙ 16 Town bikes / Country bikes ❙ 48 ❙ 62 ❙ 18 It’s made just for you! (Doing) Burgundy-Franche-Comté «I feel at home in Belfort» ❙ 52 ❙ 63 ❙ 20 Everybody outside! Travelling to Burgundy-Franche- Famous Signatures Comté ❙ 30 The Haute-Saône, 3 destinations ❙ 33 The joy of boating ❙ 34 Heritage at the water’s edge ❙ 38 In the saddle with the wind in your hair ❙ 40 A quest for spirituality ❙ 54 ❙ 42 A workout for your muscles and Cultivating wellbeing your mind ❙ 43 ❙ 56 Head out into nature One big open-air history book I 2
16 For a weekend, a week or longer (it’s your choice), prepare your escapade in Burgundy-Franche-Comté, a land on a human scale that really gets your mind and body moving. In these pages, find inspiration for your break. And Town if you are still torn between nature and culture, not to worry: everything comes together here. More than perfect ;-) bikes / A bit of advice if you want to get the measure of the destination: open your eyes and put your senses on high alert. Sporty or contemplative, Country here adventure is everywhere; at a monument, on a street, in a forest or along a path. bikes All that remains is for you to pack your suitcase. Some things you may need to pack in order to make the most of Burgundy- Franche-Comté: - Comfortable shoes, because whether in the city or out in nature, you often see the best things whilst on foot. - A camera or smartphone to take pictures and share them. But remember that the most important thing is to enjoy the moment without the filter of a screen. So make sure to feast your eyes. - A travelling companion; this could be a lover, a few kids, your parents, a brother or sister, one or more friends that are particularly dear to you. The most important thing about any journey is sharing it with someone you love. - A notebook and pencils to jot down, sketch, collect and remember in a different way. - Sunglasses and clothing that is appropriate to the season and to your needs. Whether skiing, snow-shoeing, walking, biking, sailing, touring, attending concerts, visiting markets or museums, lounging around, partying, shopping, discovering, trekking, jogging, recharging the batteries, finding yourself, exploring, horse riding, tasting, travelling through time, enjoying the very latest trends… 30 In summary, pack a suitcase that reflects you and us. But don’t panic: anything you may have forgotten, we are sure to have it here. The Haute-Saône, So, ready to go? 3 destinations MORE INFORMATION: heritage.bourgognefranchecomte.com en.bourgognefranchecomte.com/touring-holidays/ Magazine published by Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism • en.bourgognefranchecomte.com • With the financial support of the Burgundy-Franche-Comté Regional Council • Publishing Editor: Loïc Niepceron • Concept and design: Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism • Editor: Anne Chauveau - Carine Dufay • Printed by: Imprimerie Vincent (37) • ISSN : 2606-040 X • Photo credits: Alain Doire / Bourgogne- Franche-Comté Tourisme - Montagnes du Jura - Montagnes du Jura / Benjamin Becker - Maxime Coquard et Elisa Detrey (Bestjobers) - Office de tourisme d’Ornans / Vincent Becque - Cristallerie La Rochère - Michel Joly - Laurent Cheviet - Régis Antoine - Château d’Ancy-le-Franc - Les Canalous - MTCC / Yves Goux - Sandrine Baverel - Maison du Tourisme de Belfort / Philippe Mercier - Jean Becker - Maison du Tourisme de Belfort / Philippe Martin - Les Eurockéennes de Belfort - Entrevues - Denis Bringard - Infra / Massif des Vosges - Office de tourisme Luxeuil-les-Bains - Guillaume Perret - Nath Michel / Communauté de communes de la Station des Rousses - Vilac - Musée des Maisons Comtoises de Nancray - Fromageries Marcel Petite - Jura Tourisme / Audrey Dénégnan - Musée de la Lunette / Benjamin Becker - MTCC / Ecomusée du Pays de la Cérise - Abbaye de Fontenay - Musée de l'Abbaye / Jean-Marc Baudet - ThermaSalina - David Lefrenc - Jean-Pierre Corneveau - Creusot Montceau Tourisme - Olivier Tisserand - Auréline Ibanez - Guillaume Robert-Famy - Guédelon - DR.• Illustration on page 33 and 44 : Mélanie Masson • All information contained in this magazine were verified as of 15/12/2019, Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism cannot be held responsible for any changes or modifications made to this information since that date.. I 3
GO WITH YOUR INSTINCT THE JURA MOUNTAINS, THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN THE VOSGES MASSIF A THOUSAND AND ONE DISCOVERIES I 4
BURGUNDY- FRANCHE-COMTÉ TAKES YOU ON JOURNEYS Enjoying wonderful encounters, being astonished, discovering and creating memories; that’s what so special about journeys. No need to travel to the ends of the Earth! Here’s the proof. Along a raging river, on the shaded esplanade of a Roman basilica or on the quaysides of a lively town; atop a mountainous summit, along a winding woodland trail, in a wine producer’s cellar or on a steep narrow street that climbs to an impregnable citadel; seated at the bar in a village bistro or at table in a chic restaurant: Burgundy- Franche-Comté provides countless places and moments of pure emotion. EVERYONE HAS A GOOD REASON TO VISIT BURGUNDY. The emotion of the mountains, for instance, BURGUNDY INVENTS A NEW TYPE OF WEEKENDS. on the Vosges Massif or Jura Mountains, two exceptional destinations for lovers of nature, authenticity, fresh air, green spaces and even a winter snowfall. At their feet stretch lands of great diversity that also combine all the elements that make life so sweet. In Burgundy-Franche- Comté, take time to enjoy the spirit of the countryside to the full. Created in the image of Burgundy is a concentration of cultural, historic and natural heritage sites that illuminate France. So much so that a brand was established to define these simple, generous and authentic pleasures: Designed by Bourgogne. Heritage jewels, wonderful encounters and the good life are waiting to be enjoyed. Your journeys start here. www.burgundy-tourism.com www.massif-des-vosges.com www.montagnes-du-jura.fr/en/ I 5
UNESCO DISTINGUISHING THE ESSENTIEL THE BASILICA AND HILL OF VÉZELAY UNESCO - Established in the IX Century, the Benedictine monastery acquired the relics of Saint Mary Magdalen and became a hotspot for pilgrims. Saint Bernard preached the second crusade here in 1146, whilst Richard the Lionheart and AS WORLD Philip II met here on the way to the third crusade in 1190. Emerging from the verdant HERITAGE surrounding countryside, the basilica of Sainte-Madeleine, a monastic church of the XII Century, is a true masterpiece of Burgundian Romanesque art. A building of skilfully crafted blonde stone, it proudly displays its glorious past. Listed since 1979. Heirs to a prestigious past and to the prodigious links between mankind and the land, the 8 properties across Burgundy-Franche-Comté * that appear on UNESCO’s World Heritage list constitute an exceptional cultural and natural heritage, one that is irreplaceable and of universal value. Due to their historical significance and inspirational qualities, these are truly extraordinary sites. Religious, industrial, archaeological, wine producing, architectural; there are so many sites to see, experience, discover, understand and admire so that we may better preserve them and safeguard them for future generations. * In 2019, France boasted 44 properties on the UNESCO World Heritage list, including 8 in Burgundy-Franche- Comté. I 6
THE GREAT SALTWORKS OF SALINS-LES-BAINS AT THE ROYAL SALTWORKS OF ARC-ET-SENANS THE GREAT SALTWORKS OF SALINS-LES-BAINS - From below ground in the Jura there emerged and flowed sources of salt water, a precious treasure as, at that time, salt (White Gold) was the only means of preserving food. This fabulous resource was born 1200 years ago at the Great Saltworks of Salins-les-Bains. The extraction wells, the underground gallery, the imposing machinery for pumping brine that is still operational and the last salt pans in France provide evidence of intense industry from the Middle Ages onwards. From 1775, a saumoduc canal stretching for around twenty kilometres pumped brine to the Royal Saltworks of Arc- et-Senans built by Ledoux. The history of the two sites was thus united. Listed since 2009. THE ROYAL SALTWORKS OF ARC-ET-SENANS - Set on the banks of the River Loue and flanked by the immense forest of Chaux, this plant was devoted to boiling brine, salt water that arrived on site via a Saumoduc canal from the extraction site at Salins around twenty kilometres away. The building, spectacular and remarkable, is evidence of industrial architecture during the Age of Enlightenment. In 1774, Louis XV commissioned Claude Nicolas Ledoux to build a factory here on the principle of a factory-palace: a semi-circular temple of industry around which 11 other buildings would be arranged: sites of work and of life for the director, the workers and their entire families. Listed since 1982. I 7
UNESCO DISTINGUISHING THE ESSENTIEL THE CITADEL AND FORTIFICATIONS OF BESANÇON - Among the 12 exemplary fortified sites erected by Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban (1633-1707) all along the French border, there stands the citadel and the fortifications of Besançon. The military architect of Louis XIV built a defensive system here that played a major role in the military strategy of the square and marked the identity of the entire town. Perched 100m up overlooking the town and stretching for nearly 12 hectares, the Citadel currently houses 3 Musées de France museums, including a zoological park. Listed since 2008 in the context of the major sites of Vauban. THE PRIORY CHURCH OF NOTRE-DAME IN LA CHARITÉ-SUR-LOIRE - Founded in 1059, this priory was modified in the XII Century and was a dependency of the powerful Cluny Abbey. The development of the order and of the priory itself is evidenced by the grandeur and richness of its decor. Listed since 1998 in the context of the Ways of St James. I 8
THE CISTERCIAN ABBEY OF FONTENAY - Founded in 1118 by Saint Bernard, Fontenay Abbey displays sober and stripped back architecture across an incredibly fine ensemble of buildings including, among others, a church, a cloister, a dormitory, a capitular hall, a scriptorium, a boiler room and a forge. This reflects an ideal of self-sufficiency practiced by the first communities of Cistercian monks. The centuries may have passed but the site, in the heart of nature and remarkably well- preserved, still exudes an atmosphere of serenity and plenitude. The gardens (listed as Remarkable Gardens) add to the beauty and magic of this timeless site. Listed since 1981. THE CLIMATS OF BURGUNDY - A veritable natural mosaic, the Climats are vineyard plots that have been precisely drawn out on the hillsides of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Beaune. They boast very specific natural conditions (geology, exposure) and were carved out by the people of the Middle Ages in order to cultivate vines. Every individual plot produces a wine that presents highly identifiable and particular organoleptic characteristics. The cultural landscape determined by the Climats of Burgundy is made up of vineyard plots, wine-growing villages and the town of Beaune on the side, and the historic centre of Dijon on the other. Listed since 2015. I 9
UNESCO DISTINGUISHING THE ESSENTIEL LE CORBUSIER : THE CHAPEL OF NOTRE-DAME-DU-HAUT - This is a strange white edifice crafted from a single sheet of rough concrete whose silhouette emerges out of the Vosges du Sud, a majestic masterpiece by Le Corbusier. The Chapel of Ronchamp features a monument of religious architecture that is among the most illustrious in the world. The gatehouse and the convent of the Poor Claires designed by Renzo Piano further enhance its architectural significance. Listed since 2016. THE PREHISTORIC PILE DWELLINGS OF CHALAIN AND CLAIRVAUX - These houses built on stilts between 5000 and 500 B.C. around the Jura lakes of Chalain and Clairvaux are listed as part of the Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps alongside 109 other sites across Europe. I 10
DIJON SAVOUR YOUR CITY-BREAK DESTINATION DIJON The epicentre of Dijon, City of the Dukes of Burgundy, has become the capital of the new region of Burgundy-Franche-Comté. It is therefore a capital city, and not simply in the administrative sense, for Dijon is also capital of gastronomy and good living. Lift your gaze and look around: along every street, in every square, behind every ornate gateway, the city still bears the living traces of its rich and fascinating past. Ducal palace, half- timbered houses, mansion houses, delicate THE MUSEUM façades, secret gardens, gargoyles and bell OF FINE-ARTS towers, Dijon elegantly combines architectural More than 50 rooms dedicated to the wonders and discrete charms. This exceptional permanent collection and to temporary heritage forms the harmonious ensemble of a exhibitions, 1500 works from Antiquity to city where life is both gentle and intense, a city the XXI Century...The modern-day version that is perfectly in step with its time. of the Museum of Fine-Arts of Dijon, was Here we stand on the threshold of one of the finally revealed: this exceptional project was fully unveiled in May 2019 following most prestigious wine regions in the world ten years of major works. Fortunately, and of the Climats of Burgundy that have during its transformation, the museum recently been granted World Heritage status by remained open to the public who were still UNESCO. This wine producing and gastronomic able to come and admire the tombs of the identity defines the entire city. Unpretentiously Dukes of Burgundy, the undisputed stars of and joyfully, the streets and alleyways are lined with cute bistros, traditional brasseries, this collection. Housed within the Palace original eateries and Michelin star restaurants. From the stalls of the covered market to the of the Dukes and the State of Burgundy, counters of the wine bars, here we share the exquisite art of good living with one and all. The along with the Louvre it remains the only full character of the prestigious neighbouring vineyards is expressed in every glass of wine. major art museum in France to be housed At table, traditional eggs en meurette, parsley ham, escargots, Burgundy truffles, cheeses within a city palace, here in the heart from Cîteaux, Epoisses or Soumaintrain and other delicacies of Burgundy featuring grain of a town centre that is well-preserved, mustard or Marc de Bourgogne grapes sit confidently alongside ultra-contemporary cuisine. pedestrianised and constitutes one of the This cuisine is often born from faraway inspirations that daring chefs combine with their own largest preservation areas in France. Burgundian roots with perfect mastery. This gourmet and authentic ambiance stretches out onto the terrace cafés of the well-preserved city centre and is subtly transmitted to passers- by. Here we are overtaken by an irresistible urge to wander, so that we may drink in the decor and the ambiance. Concerts, exhibitions, festivals, whether intimate or on a grand scale; more than ever, Dijon is alive. I 11
WALK ALONG THE RIGHT PATH For city walks, follow the guide! BESANÇON AND ITS CITADEL Walking with senses awakened, capturing fragments of history as you turn a corner, discovering Follow the cat! a hidden garden: at their The one that Marcel Aymé features in his stories. He leads us through the streets and alleys that surround the collegiate church of Notre-Dame de Dole, via a circuit of 35 stages: the heart or a stone’s throw from Chat Perché Trail. Just like him, we rediscover our wild instincts and head into the immense the towns lies a different forest of Chaux on the doorstep of the town. Much to the annoyance of our feline friend way to enjoy walking and who dislikes water, Dole is the meeting point of the Doubs and Loue rivers. The Île du Girard discovering the intimate celebrates this union with a National Nature Reserve covering 135 ha. The site is home to 120 different types of bird and 400 plant species. heritage of Burgundy- Franche-Comté. On foot, you can set the pace and define A green loop and beyond your own points of view. Nestling in a meander of the River Doubs, Besançon boasts every shade of green. Gardens that are secret or well-known, parks, promenades, tree-lined quaysides, walking trails (more Wear comfortable shoes than 200km!), nature sites: the leading green city in France is also the French Capital of and choose your décor and Biodiversity. Along 3 sign-posted trails you are guided along as you explore the city and history as you follow quills, experience the streets of the Comtois capital from a different angle. A short hop from the winged and four-legged centre you can explore the Saône Marsh, the amazing karst features of the Osselle Grotto and Gouffre de Poudrey or even the open-air museum of Nancray, its biotopes and themed signposts that often guide gardens. these urban walks. Along the waterways and across the vineyards The guiding thread that leads you on some wonderful walks, the River Saône stretches into the very heart of Chalon-sur-Saône. The Town of Art and History can be explored via the Orbandale Trail: towers, turrets, half-timbered houses, fortifications and the magnificent Saint-Vincent Cathedral. The town and its suburbs fade away and the voyage continues I 12
along the waterway. Very well connected to the River Saône, 1200km of Burgundian canals stretch out to the delight of pleasure boaters. Back on dry land, on foot or by bike, you can wander along the towpaths. From there, the surrounding hills are carved DOLE out into lines of vineyards to provide other gourmet and wine discoveries. Top tip: stumble upon a wine-producing village by looking out for the very handy Vignobles et Découvertes label. From the cat to Marcel The notion of overlooking beauty is perfect for Joigny, the place where Marcel Aymé was actually born. Between the banks of the Yonne and the extremely verdant Othe All roads lead to… Plateau, the hillside vineyards of Joigny are sheltered from the north wind and nurtured by a microclimate. In total, 55 ha of vineyards stretch across the chalky soil of the Nevers! commune of Joigny, including 13 ha of the famous Côte-Saint-Jacques. Just a few Sitting happily alongside the Loire, steps take us from vineyard to forest and a complete change of scenery and ambiance. Nevers, a Town of Art and History, The limestone soil here is perfect for deciduous trees, forming a dense and rich forest offers a multitude of options for watered by the springs. Joigny stretches out along the River Yonne. Labelled «Town heritage enthusiasts on tour. A land and Land of Art and History» and «Most Beautiful Detours of France», the town boasts of walkers on the Way of St James, 19 listed monuments. It is a rich natural and architectural heritage to explore via the a key stop along the Loire by Bike « Petit Tour en Val d’Aubry », an 8km signposted trail. trail – the most westerly section of Eurovelo6® – and the birthplace of one of France’s most beautiful An owl reveals Dijon! navigable waterways, Nevers is well This trail starts at Dijon, capital of the (grand) Dukes and of the owl, in this case, a worth dropping in on. very worn little owl that is sculpted on the west chapel of the church of Notre-Dame. Strolling around the streets and It is said that visitors should touch it with their left hand and make a wish. As well as alleys, this discrete town reveals bringing luck, this bird guides us on a 22 stage trail that travetravelling back through its hallmark: everywhere you go time along the streets of the lavish city of the Dukes of Burgundy: Porte Guillaume, the refined art of pottery shows the Palace of State and of the Dukes of Burgundy, Notre-Dame, the Hôtel de Vogüe, its true colours. Artisan boutiques Saint-Bénigne and Saint-Philibert…It can be combined with other circuits, such as the in the old pottery quarter and the museum ensure that art buffs will Rousseau, Zola and Moïse loops. Deviating from the city centre, we will still need our undoubtedly be bowled over by the walking shoes: the wider Dijon area boasts 320km of signposted trails that are listed in pretty traditional items and modern a guide that details 34 peri-urban circuits. Another way to see the city! creations. Following the blue line on the pavement you will discover the superb Ducal Palace, a former Giant ants with German accents residence of the Counts and Dukes A different point of view is also what the Prés-la-Rose gardens in Montbéliard offers. of Nevers that is now home to the In this 10 ha park between the canal and the river, giant insects are waiting to jump out archaeological museum. Our advice: along the paths. It’s enough to pique your curiosity and encourage you to explore the take in the picturesque Montée des park and the former town of the Dukes of Wurtemberg. This astonishing past has given Princes or Promenade des Remparts trails to enjoy exceptional views of Montbéliard its accent from across the Rhine, of which traces and wonderful stories the town and its monuments. remain. The trail following historic information signs in the Principality takes you on a journey through time via 300 signs and 50 signposted circuits. Closer to home, The Memory and Peace Trail calls to mind the great episodes of World War II on the Ecot Plateau. From the Gland Valley to the cliffs of Lomont, the trail of information signs has its very own border-crossing character and strong links with Switzerland. Flora, fauna, temples, fountains and even literature inspire other short walking circuits across the Pays de Montbéliard. I 13
VAUBAN FORTIFYING OUR TERRITORY In the fo footsteps of T H E G E N I U S VA U B A N It is in the villag village of Saint-Léger-Vauban where he was born, in In total, 10 kilometres of walls punctuated by demi-bastions, th Morvan, that our route begins at the Maison the heart off the tenailles, sentry boxes, curtain walls, turrets and half-moons... Vauban. Thiss sspace devoted to Vauban occupies one of the five The architecture of the Citadel and its natural and landscape themed centres that make up the Morvan Eco-museum network. aspects make it one of Vauban’s masterpieces. Perched on an Situated in the village square, at the foot of the statue of the anticline that overlooks the town from a height of more than military engineer himself, the site invites us to explore one hundred metres, the fortress stretches across the different facets of Vauban: three rooms present eleven hectares. Beyond the famous Citadel, the him as the military engineer, the thinker and military strategist endowed the entire town the reformer respectively, as well as offering with defensive structures. Considering the the reflections of Vauban on his Morvan very particular configuration of the town, homeland and his century. encircled as it is by a loop of the River Doubs, Vauban constructed a perimeter A few kilometres from there is Avallon. wall aimed at protecting the right bank The town called upon the talent of of the river that was reinforced with Bartholdi (creator of the Lion of six bastioned towers. He also erected Belfort) to honour Vauban: a 3-metre the majestic Quai Vauban, as well as memorial sculpted from a single block a second citadel on Battant Hill, Fort of grey granite from his home village Griffon. In total, and in addition to the of Saint-Léger and inaugurated with Citadel, 18 key sites currently exist great fanfare in 1873. Then comes the that punctuate the fortifications and château de Bazoches, which leads us into reinforce the astonishing architectural the intimate life of Vauban. Here we are identity of the town. at home with him. His home and his study. Beneath the gilding and rich ornamentation, Also characteristic of the whole town are in the shade of the park or in the lounges, Vauban the citadel and the fortifications of Belfort. often drew inspiration from this sumptuous building, A strategic spot for the military defence of Eastern owned by his descendants and now open to the general public. France, it benefited in 1687 from Vauban’s architectural genius. The hand of Vauban is also evident in the Château de Joux, near From his study we pass into the titanic realisation of the Pontarlier, and in the defensive walls of Fort Saint-André that is ancestral fortifications, here at Besançon in the Doubs. perched on the heights of Salins-les-Bains. Listed as World Heritage by UNESCO since 2008 alongside the perimeter walls and Fort Griffon in Besançon, the Citadel of Besançon is one of the most beautiful fortified citadels by Vauban. I 14
CHANGE YOUR POINT OF VIEW BESANÇON REBELLIOUS AND DARING CITÉ DES ARTS On the left bank of the Doubs the « Cité A bend in the River Doubs extends a protective arm around the hill des Arts et de la Culture » is home to FRAC Franche-Comté (the Regional where the citadel built by Vauban more than 300 years ago perches. Contemporary Art Fund). This space is the The town sprung up around this natural bend, bringing with it work of Japanese architect Kengo Kuma countless inner courtyards and a clever maze of staircases. From and presents temporary and permanent the Battant quarter to the buttresses of the citadel, the charm of exhibitions that are often guided by themes that are important to the town. this town with blue and golden façades still exudes. Bronze arrows The permanent collections include point the way around the streets and mark out three circuits to draw over 500 works (paintings, photography, inspiration from: Battant, the fortified town or the upper town. But sculpture, installations, graphic arts, Besançon is also home to clock makers, making it the capital of textiles, audio-visual, etc.) by nearly 300 international artists: Marina Abramovic, time, boasting exceptional mansion houses, secret courtyards and Robert Breer, Christian Boltanski, gardens, the apothecary of the 17th century hospital, famous men Balthasard Burkhard, Gérard Gasiorowski, and women (Hugo, Nodier, Proudhon, the Lumière Brothers, Colette…), Christian Marclay, Gregor Schneider, the Museum of Fine-Arts and Archaeology and many themed visits Xavier Veilhan, Gérard Collin-Thiébaut… It is an exhibition space, but also a place offered by the tourist office. Then, of course, you have the citadel. of learning, with conferences, a library, a This proud edifice and its fortifications provide the blueprint of the terrace café. A vibrant venue to visit and town, revealing the envy and power games it has inspired since the experience. beginning and the reason for its UNESCO World Heritage listing. At the heart of the citadel, museums and a zoo make this a lively place where events abound. In summer, the wild history of the site is recounted by actors. Donning wig, make-up and costume, Vauban strolls along the rampart walk and the corridors of time, taking us with him. THE GRANDES HEURES NATURE FESTIVAL Surrounded by woodland and seven hills, crossed by a river boasting banks that are home to 1,000km of walking trails, Besançon seems to have been created especially for outdoor and nature activities. It’s quite natural then that the leading festival exclusively devoted to outdoor pursuits was born in Besançon. Code name: « Grandes Heures Nature ». Rendez-vous from 5th to 7th June 2020. I 15
PEDAL IN PERFECT FREEDOM Do you prefer pedalling through green spaces with the wind in your hair or with your handlebars gripped as you race along the pretty cobbles? Bikes are perfect for any TOWN BIKES DIJON setting, and here are a few ideas for urban AND all-terrain trails COUNTRY BIKES through Burgundy- Franche-Comté. Start pedalling in Belfort to enjoy an urban ride through the legs of A certain art de vivre is cultivated in smaller towns, such as Vesoul. the lion. Half-timbered houses, narrow streets and squares of pink With the old town centre and the beautiful lake that stretches out at sandstone, flower-filled quaysides and green spaces, from the old the threshold of the town, the Vesoul area provides some wonderful town to the suburbs there are over 100km of cycling itineraries. ideas for days out combining town and countryside right up to the Cyclists and citizens also enjoy a direct connection with the banks of the nearby River Saône. major trails, greenways and EuroVelo6®. It’s perfect for riding to neighbouring Montbéliard. This is an automotive town, but much This is a verdant ambiance shared by the Val de Vingeanne with, at more besides. Montbéliard and its wider area provide an important its heart, the pretty villages of Fontaine-Française, Mirebeau-sur- hub for cyclists, with 98km of dedicated paths across the town. Bèze, Arcelot and even Oisilly. The rivers, springs, château, Saint- From the château of the Dukes of Wurtemberg to the scientific Pierre de Bèze Abbey: a land of beautiful stone and wild waters that gardens of Prés-la-Rose, lift your gaze from the handlebars and we love riding through, just like Val de Gray that flanks the Saône. change your point of view. The Temple Saint-Martin, pretty coloured façades, the Aventure Peugeot Museum and even, just a short ride In Gray, park your bike on the quayside to fully enjoy the away, the contemporary stained-glass windows of the church of architectural treasures of the town that has taken over the left bank: Sacré Cœur d’Audincourt designed by Fernand Léger. Renaissance town hall and its roof of glazed tiles, the Saint-Pierre- Fourier basilica and tower (15th century), the Tour du Parvis, last A change of ambiance in Besançon, with the quays along the vestige of the fortified château of Gray, the pretty Italian theatre, Doubs that were fortified by Vauban, the citadel, Granvelle Palace the Carmelite chapel, the château of the Count of Provence that and square, the streets and alleys that surround La Boucle and the became the Musée Baron Martin. Because on a bike, it’s a pleasure gentle valleys that enclose the town are a delight for all kinds of to take your time and explore the intimate side of a region. cyclists. With the tramway, greenways and pedestrian streets, the town loves cycling for leisure and for sport. Besançon is also a Continuing on this theme, head for Montbard, birthplace of the stage of the EuroVelo6® trail. naturist Buffon. From the medieval château to the pretty park that surrounds it, passing the former stables that now house a From one capital to another, we move to Dijon and its wider area: museum, Montbard celebrates natural history and its fathers. This « Le Grand Dijon à Vélo » presents its map! It’s another way to is a seductive stop along the TGV route from Paris to Burgundy- explore the capital of the Dukes of Burgundy and the ambitious Franche-Comté and the departure point for a very beautiful stage International City of Gastronomy that has made a place for softer of the Canal de Bourgogne by bike. From Montbard to Venarey-les- modes of transport. The Palais des Ducs, the splendid Museum Laumes in the Auxois, a 13.3km circuit crosses pretty landscapes of Fine-Arts, the picturesque Rue de la Chouette, the flavoursome and gentle countryside taking you back in time. Pedalling along the market district: in town, half the fun of cycling is stopping off water’s edge, between the wooded hillsides and the green pastures, somewhere to have a drink, visit, taste. you reach Mont-Auxois (Alésia) upon which a certain Vercingétorix stands watch. It was here that the armies of Gaul surrendered their arms to the Romans. I 16
COUNTRY BIKES Striking out on a trail into the forests, between the vineyards or up a mountain, in a leisurely or more sporty vein, all-terrain or even aboard an electric bike, to ride across the landscape THE SUMMIT OF MONT-D'OR and along all challenging trails, cycling offers another way of seeing and experiencing the region. Wind in your hair, at your own pace and according to your tastes, you can nibble at or devour kilometres of trails. Because of this Burgundy- Franche-Comté offers multiple dedicated trails and shared- use routes, such as in the Tonnerrois. Vineyards, the Canal de Bourgogne, springs, gardens, forests: from Tonnerre to Ancy-le-Franc you bike will carry you into the fresh air and to green spaces where you can really breathe! Rise above it all and enjoy the Grande Traversée du Morvan trail: GTM to its friends. From Avallon in the Yonne, to Autun in Saône-et-Loire, the GTM shows mountain bikers the most beautiful trails on the massif (314.2km). In total, 330km of paths with climbs that match those of the famous Grande Traversée du Massif Central (GTMC), part of nearly 1,400km of trails that link Avallon and Cap d’Agde Stay at the summit with the Grande Traversée du Jura trail. From Mandeure in the Doubs, to Culoz in the Ain, the GTJ boasts 425km of trails that are especially devoted to mountain bikers along the spine of the Jura Massif. Here you will cross, most notably, the Jura Monts Rivières area. With the Champagnole plateau, the GREENWAY IN THE VINEYARD OF MEURSAULT forest of Haute-Joux, the landscapes and rivers of Foncine, the medieval heritage and pastures of Nozeroy, this provides PLATEAU OF an astonishing concentration of what the massif has to offer. A THOUSAND PONDS Changing gear for guaranteed thrills takes us to Métabief. At the foot of Mont-d’Or, this resort is a mountain biking hot- spot: downhill, free-ride and endure trails. Spectacular! Still with sporty cycling, but this time on the roads, we head to the Ballons des Vosges. Servance and Alsace Ballons, Belfahy and Planche-des-Belles-Filles: these are names that are enough to give bike lovers goosebumps. These mid-mountain hills are stages on the legendary Tour de France that can be emulated. Staying on the Vosges du Sud Massif we get our breath back. At an altitude of 600 metres in the heights of Servance and as if by magic, the horizon stretches out across the aptly named Plateau of a Thousand Ponds. The dark waters of some of these countless ponds provide a mysterious sparkle that punctuates a landscape of moorland, birch trees, ferns, heather and pink sandstone. This is a sumptuous, wild and enchanting environment, but « Ville et Territoire one that is very fragile because of the habitats it contains. Vélotouristique » label: Whether you travel through it on small country roads or along Belfort, Vesoul and its wider area. the numerous trails through the undergrowth, it is essential to respect the sign-posts. I 17
DISCOVER THE INTIMACY OF THE TOWN Belfort from fort to fort, and not just for sport ;-) I enjoy jogging and there’s a route I really love. It’s a (small) section of the Randonnée des Forts. With the family, it also makes for a nice walk and a great history lesson for the kids. Apart from the scenery, it passes places that remind us of the major events of “Resistance in Belfort”. Defending against Prussia, Austria and even France, Belfort has built numerous forts and walls. From Belfort to Giromagny there is Fort Dorsner, Bessoncourt and the Fort Sénarmont, right up to Andelnans and Fort Ordener in Vézelois. This itinerary takes you back in time along 75km of landscape dotted with the very first defensive forts in the Vosges. It’s not just for sport ;-) “I feel at home in Belfort” Exciting: Escape Rooms, the Caroline is 42 and married with two children; Victor (9) and Valentine (13). Originally from key to the Bastion Lorraine, Belfort has been her adopted home Being locked in a room and escaping to complete a challenge in less than one hour: a for around ten years. They get along so well, brilliant concept. Especially when you add the it’s hard to say who has adopted who. history of the town and the the setting in which this all unfolds. This is Tour 27. A bastioned With a few addresses, highlights and top tips, tower on the ramparts of the old town! There Caroline guides us around her town, just as she are two puzzles that must be solved as a group. There is Vauban’s Office and Bartholdi’s would her own friends and family. Workshop. The first takes you on a journey to the year of Our Lord 1700 and the second to 1880, when the famous Lion was inaugurated. The sculptor has lost his speech notes. My 6 childhood friends and I must urgently find them; within 57 min. Would you be up for the challenge? Maurice Jardot’s surprising gift At this ancient property belonging to the family of poet Léon Deubel are 150 paintings, sculptures and drawings from the 20th century: Picasso, Braque, Léger, Gris, Laurens, Masson…. An easily accessible treasure trove of culture. I 18
Top table(s)! Greenery, old stone, shopping, lovely events: Lunch or dinner at a restaurant in the old town, Belfort has everything to delight. overlooked by the citadel and the Lion. The Pot au Feu, the Nenni ma Foi, Les Capucins or Let yourself be surprised! even La Fontaine des Saveurs all serve revisited recipes from yesteryear based on fresh regional products in season. The King of the urban jungle It is a true classic, but we love “climbing on the lion”. This walk takes you between the (gigantic) paws of the famous tawny beast that overlooks the old town. Victor dreams of being big enough to go even higher, among the whiskers of the lion, and finally solve the puzzle: does he actually have a tongue? Adventure: the citadel and freedom Virtual reality Like a journey through time, this visit takes the Quite simply magical! With form of a quiz in order to fully reveal the secrets reconstructions, films and 3D animation, of a place that is always so impressive. Here, it the intrigues of the past and the ravages feels like you are in the pages of a giant history of time come back to life and project book: you rub shoulders with Bartholdi, Vauban, themselves onto our reality. The walls of General Haxo, Denfert-Rochereau. And what an the Citadel come alive. Like this we can extremely lively history book it is, thanks to the discover the original majesty of the great son et lumière and 3D animations. Children are underground tunnels of the Citadel and sure to go wild for this discovery trail exploring the Lion thanks to this superb augmented quarries and bastions, right down to the Grand reality visitor trail. And the whole thing is Souterrain caves at the heart of the citadel. available in three languages, by the way! My diary dates; believe me, there is always something happening in Belfort! Entrevues: budding talents The Eurockéennes Festival: Short films and features by up- unmissable coming directors compete during the Without doubt one of the greatest rock international festival for creative young festivals in Europe! Since 1988, it has cinematographers. End November, early brought together headliners, young December. talent, pop, rock, rap, hip-hop, blues and crowds! The Eurock’ were 30 years old in It’s all white 2018. In a word; unmissable. From 3th to The town dresses up as a mountain. 6th July at Malsaucy. Skiing, luge, skating, chalets: it’s all here. Go Christmas shopping in mittens. Unmissable: Belfort Flea Market Le FIMU world music The first Sunday of the month between The whole world! The International Festival March and December, Belfort old of University Music has ambiance and town becomes a paradise for antique a change of scene. May or June, on hunters...and for me! Over 200 Pentecost weekend. professionals and lots of treasures. I 19
CHECK OUT THE REMARKABLE SITES FAMOUS SIGNATURES Châteaux, fortresses, ruins, towns and villages, religious, civic, military and even industrial heritage are all witness to the history of our lives and of our lands. Places where these remarkable sites have put down roots to benefit from a waterway, a promontory, a geographical location or specific natural resources and advantages. Managed, extended and protected by the men and women of Burgundy-Franche-Comté, this exceptional heritage has lasted through the ages until now. Each of these sites boasts a precious heritage, and bears the signature of Burgundy-Franche-Comté. BIBRACTE Our journey begins with a prodigious leap into the past, right back to the 1st century before Christ, to Mont Beuvray. A territory located in between the current departments of Nièvre and Saône- et-Loire, in the heart of the Morvan Forest, where the Gallo-Celtic Aedui people established their capital: Bibracte. The 200 ha. town surrounded by ramparts is one of the high spots of ancient history, as it was here that Vercingétorix was named chief of the coalition of Gauls. Fortifications, monumental doorways, public buildings, pool, cellar, place of worship, homes and workshops updated thanks to excavation works and, in the case of some, partially reconstructed to take the visitor back to time immemorial and provide evidence of the fascinating history of the site. A remarkably well-preserved oppidum where Caesar personally stayed following his victory at Alesia marks the spot where he wrote his final Commentaries on the War of Gaul. An emotive and precious reminder of the very distant past, Bibracte also offers us its breathtaking natural heritage, that of a town hidden away in the nook of a forest with an atmosphere all of its own (a ZNIEFF and Natura 2000 listed site). Still with our Gaul ancestors, we head to 52 B.C, the moment Julius Caesar himself won the Battle of Alésia and, with it, the conquest From Alésia to the Lion of Belfort, of Gaul. This is Côte-d’Or, beside Alise-Sainte-Reine, and we re-join from Sens to Luxeuil-les-Bains, from Vercingétorix. It was here that the Arverne’s great chief surrendered at the feet of the all-powerful Roman Emperor. Dominating the Cluny to Saint-Claude, let’s take a Auxois Land of Art and History is his statue, commissioned by journey. A journey through time Napoleon III, which overlooks the site. Its plinth reads “A united and through the lands of Burgundy- Gaul, forming a single nation, animated by the same spirit, can defy the universe”. The MuséoParc Alésia interpretation centre explores Franche-Comté. the point of view of the Gauls and of their great Roman enemies, with an interactive and dynamic discovery of the famous battle and its challenges. Also on the site, the ruins of a Gallo-Roman town have been revealed by years of digs, evidence of an ancient city that stood here until the V Century. I 20
BIBRACTE MUSÉOPARC ALÉSIA I 21
CHECK OUT THE REMARKABLE SITES A few decades after the War of the Gauls, the Aedui deserted Bibracte in favour of a new capital in Autun. The Romans founded Augustodunum. The destiny of the town was changing. Autun still remains a treasure box for archaeologists. Visitors can see ramparts, towers, the Couhard Pyramid (a funerary monument built in the 1st century A.D), the Saint-André and Arroux gates and even the Temple of Janus, the two-faced god, a place of worship of Gaulish origin that honours an unknown deity…a great mystery. As for the town’s Gallo-Roman theatre, it was dedicated to dramatic performances and could hold up to 20,000 spectators, making it the largest in the whole Western Roman Empire, maintaining this title well into the Middle Ages. Evidence of this period is found in the priory church of Saint-Martin, a pagan temple that became an abbey in the V Century, in the medieval quarter with its Ursulines Tower, of course, in the Saint- Lazare Cathedral (XII Century). It is topped off with a stone arrow erected in the XV Century and AUTUN displays beautiful sculptures, including the capitals that bear the signature of Gislebertus. This is a masterpiece of Cluniac art. Nearer to our time, the XIX Century heritage provides other backdrops for our city strolls: the elegant Passage Balthus, its neo-Renaissance decor and original skylights, the 200km north, Burgundy delicately brushes the Ile de France. town hall and its reception rooms at ground level that host a This is Sens. From the Middle Ages, there has been a powerful market every Wednesday and Friday or even the municipal archbishopric here whose influence has stretched over the theatre. In terms of Autunois heritage, we should mention bishoprics of Chartres, Auxerre, Meaux, Paris, Orléans, Nevers the Rolin Museum, located in the birth house (XV Century) of and Troyes. In 1130, Henri Sanglier, the archbishop of the the Chancellor of the Dukes of Burgundy and founder of the time, undertook the construction of a cathedral to match (or Hospices de Beaune. This site offers a concentration of the exceed) his own religious supremacy. The building boasted a history of our land, from Antiquity to the XX Century. revolutionary design: crossed ogives. This was the world’s first Gothic cathedral, a monument whose slender architecture, skylights, stained-glass windows and sculptures continue to astound visitors. Alongside Saint-Etienne Cathedral, Sens boasts other heritage features that guide us into the intimate and historical aspects of this enchanting town: the Garnier des Prés ramparts and postern, a vestige of Antiquity, the synodal palace erected between 1230 and 1240 and later restored by Viollet-le-Duc in the XIX Century, which nowadays houses the exhibition spaces of the museums of Sens and brings together exceptional collections featuring some of the finest treasures from the cathedrals of France, the Maison d’Abraham, a XVI Century house designed for use by the tanners, the splendid Hôtel de Ville that was built during the III Republic, the Baltard style halls of the covered market (surprisingly triangular!) SAINT-ETIENNE CATHEDRAL ( SENS ) I 22
THE MEDIEVAL WINDS BLOW We stay in Burgundy but return to the purity of the Middle Ages to visit Cluny, a monastic hotbed if ever there was one. Bathed by the waters of the Grosne, a tributary of the Saône, and flanked by the Charolais dales, on this fertile land of southern Burgundy a Benedictine abbey was founded in 910 AD. A masterpiece of Roman art, the town retains monastic ruins and buildings. The abbey- town leads us from the Portes d’Honneur to the spectacular Tour des Fromages, passing by the Palais Jean de Bourbon (Home to the Museum of Art and Archaeology), vestiges of the great abbey church, the cloister, the flour store and the monks’ pantry. By following the bronze nails on the ground depicting the Pascal Lamb, we travel through the centuries into the medieval ambiance of the town as it unfolds around the abbey itself. The Wells of the Penitent, the Hôtel de la Monnaie, the Maison des Echevins, the Porte Saint-Odile; so many remarkable buildings that still remain as evidence of religious power, the abbey influenced art and politics across the whole of Europe. Until the construction of St Peter’s in Rome in the 16th century, the abbey church at Cluny was the largest in Christendom! It is a remarkable journey back in time that can be extended with a visit to the town centre’s Roman houses, as well as to the neighbouring villages filled with châteaux, priories and chapels, such as Brancion, Berzé, Mazille or even Tournus. I 23
CHECK OUT THE REMARKABLE SITES ABBEY OF SAINT-CLAUDE Staying in the Middle Ages but heading to the Jura Mountains, within an enclosed valley at the confluence of the Bienne and Tacon rivers, the town of Saint-Claude was built on the foundations of a powerful Benedictine abbey. This pilgrimage hotspot from the 15 to 16th century was personally visited by King Louis XI in 1456 and 1482. A wood and horn turning industry sprang up around the monastery, serving the needs of pilgrims. Through the centuries, the artisans diversified their products: rosaries and prayer beads, as well as pipes and toys. These skills, tools and attention to detail was then employed by the people of Jura in the clock industry of its Swiss neighbours, making precious stones and enamel clock faces. Around Saint- Claude and Morez, the Haut-Jura still boasts a proud reputation and living evidence of this great savoir-faire can still be seen. Venues for exhibitions or events, as well as museums like the ones focusing on pipes and diamonds, or even the Wood-turning Museum and the astonishing Fraternelle Museum established in 1870 by a worker’s cooperative, recount great artisanal or industrial stories. As for the former abbey, nowadays it is home to a very fine museum of art and archaeology. The original site has been enhanced by a daring contemporary structure and opened its doors in 2008. This is a prodigious time machine that features precious vestiges of Antiquity and of the monastic era, as well as much more contemporary works from the likes of Bonnard, Valloton, Dufy or Vuillard, bequeathed by artists and collectors Guy Bardone and René Genis. This provides a different and very singular vision of the Haut-Jura. LUXEUIL-LES-BAINS Switching massifs, we now go to the foot of the Vosges du Sud. Christianity once again was responsible for the birth of Luxeuil-les- Bains. It was here that a spring of hot water, already appreciated by the Romans, was discovered. It was said to bring purity, longevity and fertility. In 610, the Irish monk St Colomban set off with 12 companions to evangelise Gaul and erected one of the first monasteries in Europe around this source. Thanks to its religious aura of the High Middle Ages and precious waters, the town of pink sandstone prospered. Cloister, abbey, thermal baths, sculpted façades, staircases, elegant arcades, towers and turrets, the old town centre takes us back into history, from the Gothic to the Belle SAINT-COLOMBAN - LUXEUIL-LES-BAINS Époque, and through the Renaissance. Delightful! I 24
BEAUTIFUL AND REBELIOUS TOWNS Just a few kilometres from the unique chapel of Ronchamp lies the land of Belfort. This rebellious land has always fought against occupation or invasion, whether French, Prussian or Austrian; Belfort is a lion that runs free, with a heart of (pink) stone. Quarried in the neighbouring Vosges, its façades are made of pink sandstone, as are the château, citadel, fortifications and Bartholdi’s Lion that overlooks the rooftops of the old town and a maze of narrow streets and small squares where visitors love to get lost. Crossing the bridges and the Savoureuse, the town turns into residential neighbourhoods that stretch up to the doorstep of the great industrial sites that have taken Belfort and its surrounding area to the forefront of mechanical BELFORT, ITS CITADEL AND THE LION OF BARTHOLDI excellence. Picturesque, busy, industrial and still very green: the ponds (Malsaucy and Des Forges) and forests make the land of the lion rugged and natural. It’s a question of balance. This same balance of greenery, water and stone defines Besançon. Nestling in a meander of the Doubs beside green hills, Besançon has bolstered its natural defences with clever constructions. The fortifications and famous citadel by Vauban have earned this Comtois beauty UNESCO recognition. This stone ring built more than 100m high towers over the town and gives it an identity and charm. The site can be visited and is now home to museums and a zoo. In 1678, after the signing of the Teaty of Nijmegen, Besançon and its region finally became part of France, and Louis XIV commissioned his military architect Vauban to construct the citadel. All at once, Besançon became a cornerstone of the kingdom’s eastern defences and the regional capital. BESANÇON (GARE D'EAU ) I 25
CHECK OUT THE REMARKABLE SITES Until then it was Dole that boasted the title of capital and all the benefits of its status. The nerve centre of Comté, then a dependency of the Kingdom of Spain, Dole was regularly subjected to assaults from the King of France’s troops. It was here, in 1636, that the Prince of Condé, emissary of the King of France, shouted to its proud resistance fighters the now famous phrase “Comtois, rends-toi!” The indommitable Franc- Comtois replied to their tormentor “Nenni, ma foi!” This historic phrase has become a motto that represents the determination and independent spirit of the Comtois people. Despite the blood and fire of its enemies, this Jura town still shows evidence of a prestigious past. The Hôtel-Dieu, collegiate church, parliament, university, mansion houses and priories provide so many pretexts for a beautiful stroll through the narrow streets and gardens and along the charming Canal des Tanneurs. This is a place that has been marked by the birth of a truly great man, DOLE the son of a tanner in fact; Louis Pasteur. The birth house of the genius can be visited. Overlooking all of this is the silhouette of the collegiate church of Notre-Dame. Constructed in the XVI Century, it symbolises the revival of the town following the ravages it suffered under Louis XI. It is the starting point from which the city walking tours depart, like the “Chat Perché Trail” or the “Dragonfly Trail” along the banks of the River Doubs that flanks the town to the south. A canoe-kayaking trail for visitors using a GPS built in to the boat provides another way of exploring the formidable historic, architectural and natural heritage of Dole. DARING AND CREATIVITY Rebellious, visionary, ingenious, creative: there are countless adjectives to describe the local people. Evidence of this strong character is found in Pays de Montbéliard, which adds entrepreneurial and daring to the list of regional attributes. Entrepreneurial like the automobile industry that was the beating heart of the town. Alongside the fairy tale château and the surprising gardens of Près-la-Rose, a hymn to horticultural science and knowledge, you can hear the famous Peugeot lion roar. Firstly, there are the manufacturing sites established in 1912, a veritable historic monument to industry that is expanded upon further in the Aventure Peugeot Museum. A breathtaking site of over 10,000m² that recounts more than two centuries of mechanics. It all began in 1810, at a former grain mill transformed into a foundry and forge hammer. Here, the Peugeot brothers produced saw blades and clock faces, and later coffee grinders and tools. This diversification intensified with sewing machines before turning towards the manufacture of bicycles. The Peugeot saga was in full flow! More than 3000 objects bearing the famous lion and nearly 200 vehicles with two, three or four wheels are waiting to transport you. From the most retro bikes to futuristic concept cars, from gleaming bodywork to racing cars that are still caked in the sand and asphalt of great sporting challenges, the Aventure Peugeot Museum is a prodigious time machine that takes you on a full-throttle trip around the world. A boutique, brasserie, reception rooms, guided or audio-guided visits, the organisation of events, for young and old alike, all in a fantastic Art Deco setting make this site an absolute must. The story of this brand is intimately linked with that of the Pays de Montbéliard where countless suppliers flocked and bolstered the density and the energy of this intense industrial activity in an area that is as verdant and bucolic as they come. I 26
THE AVENTURE PEUGEOT MUSEUM ( SOCHAUX ) DIJON IN CAPITALS Capital of the Dukes of Burgundy, international city of gastronomy and wine, gateway to the vineyards and therefore the famous Climats of Burgundy that are THE POLAR BEAR, DARCY PARK ( DIJON ) listed as World Heritage by UNESCO: Dijon boasts a string of titles and beautiful reference points and lives up to all its promises. From picturesque wood-panelled houses and Corbel arches on the rue Verrerie to the Gothic flamboyance of the Hôtel Chambellan, from the Maison des Trois Pignons to that of Les Cariatides on rue Chaudronnerie, from the vertiginous Philip the Good Tower to the Palais des Ducs et des Etats de Bourgogne, from parks to museums, from the covered market to the restaurants, bistros and wine bars, let your footsteps (and your taste buds) guide you through this prodigious hotbed of heritage and history. MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS ( DIJON ) I 27
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