The Elegance Of Couture - The Leela
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CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE A s we enter a new year, I cannot emphasize enough the importance of good health as a form of true wealth. There are an array of ways of achieving that at our disposal nowadays — whether it’s through yoga, going to the gymnasium, enjoying laps of the swimming pool, eating healthier or rejuvenating at a spa, that help us take better care of ourselves. We, at The Leela, have always believed in this form of holistic living as you will see in a story inside. Part of taking good care of our guests is seeing that they are facilitated in taking personal good care of themselves. After all, a healthy body plus healthy mind equals a happy soul! The last couple of months have seen several high-profile weddings, with Udaipur being the destination du jour for couples to The last couple of tie the knot. We spotlight the city of historic palaces and forts, and give you a first-hand view of its royal splendour. Equally royal is the months have seen couture of master designer Manish Malhotra who graces the cover. several high-profile He has risen to the pinnacle of the fashion world with no formal weddings, with training but purely through hard work, talent and an undying love for what he does. Udaipur being the Art aficionados will be intrigued by an interview with Director destination du jour for of Christie’s India, Sonal Singh, who provides an insight in the new couples to tie the knot directions of the art world and the staggering influence of technology on it. And those who enjoy nothing more than a good tipple will be happy to know that bartenders across the country are now sourcing local ingredients and creating their own syrups and infusions to elevate the cocktail drinking experience. Enjoy the read. Vivek Nair Chairman & Managing Director, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 2 | winter 2018-2019
CONTENTS T H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — w i n t e r 2 0 1 8 - 2 0 1 9 52 Travel The historic palaces and forts of Udaipur 08 12 18 Luxe Effect Proust Questionnaire Books Statement-making timepieces, and the With MasterChef judge, author An excerpt from Aarti Kelshikar’s ‘How coolest fragrances for men and women and chef Gary Mehigan India Works: Making Sense of a Complex Corporate Culture’ 24 30 40 Wheels Business Mixology A look at india’s first hypercar Director of Christie’s India, Sonal Singh, Why homegrown cocktails are the on the intersection of technology and art new rage at bars 46 58 66 Fashion The Good Life Art Czar of couture Manish Malhotra Author Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi How masterpieces of art are being turned on all things fashionable on his endearing fable into carpets for a charitable cause THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 4 | winter 2018-2019
T H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — w i n t e r 2 0 1 8 - 2 0 1 9 C O N T E N T S COVER Philanthropist Natasha Poonawalla in Manish Malhotra’s elegant couture line THE LEELA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF — Lakshmi Nair EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR — Shobha Patel PRODUCTION — Prakash Bachche MEDIASCOPE EDITORIAL EDITOR — Farhad J. Dadyburjor JUNIOR WRITER — Shikha Talwar CLIENT SERVICE MANAGER — Reshma Malvankar ART CREATIVE DIRECTOR — Muhammad Jaan Faruqui 76 79 82 ASST. ART DIRECTOR — Vikas Hari Kinjawadekar GRAPHIC DESIGNER — Shivaji B. Gaikwad IMAGE EDITOR — Vivek N. Deshmukh PRODUCTION MANAGER — Elidio Fernandes ADVERTISING SALES BACK OF THE BOOK MUMBAI (022- 61377400) Vice President — Monica Chopra Katty Gia, Rashmi Kapoor DELHI (011-23730873/66599300) 70 Health & Fitness 83 Insider’s Guide Sr. General Manager (North) — Asha Augustine Senior Manager — Nikhil Mehrotra 76 84 BANGALORE (09886041356) — Nagesh Rao Food Festival Events HYDERABAD (08978866599) — Sheetal Petkar KERALA (09414069321) — Sanjai Krishnan 79 Snapshot 85 Accolades AD SALES - INTERNATIONAL HONG KONG (+852-2516 1003) — Winky Wong 80 Launchpad 86 Guest Speak MALAYSIA (+60-3-7729 6923) — Shallie Cheng SINGAPORE (+65 6735 8681) — Joui Ong DUBAI (+9714 3913360) — Sunil Kanchan 81 Chef ’s Corner 87 Perspective MARKETING MANAGER MARKETING SERVICES — Salim B. 82 Jet Set Go FINANCE & ACCOUNTS SR. MANAGER - ACCOUNTS & ADMIN. — Girish Sharma ACCOUNTS EXECUTIVE — Ashwin Makwana “This Magazine is published by Hotel Leela Ventures Limited (“Leela”) and produced by MEDIASCOPE CREDIT CONTROLLER — Girish Joshi MULTIMEDIA (INDIA) PRIVATE LIMITED, on behalf of and under agreement with Leela. Opinions expressed herein are of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of Leela or of CORPORATE MEDIASCOPE MULTIMEDIA (INDIA) PRIVATE LIMITED. All enquiries about editorial matters, reproduction CEO & MANAGING DIRECTOR — Marzban Patel of articles and advertising should be addressed to The Leela Magazine, MEDIASCOPE MULTIMEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR — Anita Patel (INDIA) PRIVATE LIMITED, 51 Doli Chamber, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Mumbai 400 005, India. Email: theleela.editor@mediascope.co.in CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER — Sunando Roy Material in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent DIRECTOR — Indu Joshi of the publisher. Neither Leela nor MSP assumes any responsibility or endorses any claim made by the advertisers herein.” Printed at Parksons Graphics, Andheri (West), Mumbai 400053. CONNECT WITH US ON This magazine is printed on environment-friendly, wood-free paper. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 6 | winter 2018-2019
LUXE EFFECT CARTIER PATEK PHILIPPE This timepiece from the Parisian Patek Philippe’s perpetual brand’s Ballon Bleu De Cartier calendar chronographs are collection is not only bejewelled among the most coveted in a total of 1,682 brilliant- and collectable of all cut diamonds but offers wristwatches for men, a 12.1mm thickness and this model leaves that sits delicately on no room for doubt. your wrist. With the A delight for watch pink gold case, dial and lovers, the manual- bracelet made of 135 (1.32 winding timepiece boasts carats), 464 (1.60 carats) a classic palette of rose and 1,029 (6.99 carats) brilliant- gold and black. The sunburst cut diamonds respectively, the dial flaunts symmetrically timepiece offers the collection’s star balanced with day/month feature: sword-shaped hands, along indicator at 12 o’clock and an with a sapphire crystal making it an analogue date at 6 o’clock, all-time stunner. along with two sub-dials. Head-turners! Glamourous timepieces to keep you shining through the new year. BREGUET Flaunting 66 brilliant-cut diamonds, this timepiece is for the fashion forward. With a clean profile and grand feu enamelled dial, it flaunts a moon phase indicator and is an individually numbered and signed Breguet timepiece. With delicately fluted caseband and an 18-carat white gold case, the self-winding timepiece is perfect for formal events. VACHERON CONSTANTIN The beauty of this timepiece is that despite its bezel adorned in diamonds, the reader’s attention is first drawn to its 40 mm, minimalistic dial that makes time-reading fast and easy. Featuring an 18-carat crown, case and dial in pink gold, the timepiece strikes a perfect balance between glam and subtle. With an 18-carat ardillon buckle and dark brown alligator strap, this makes a good go-to choice for all stylish gentlemen out there. — Compiled by Deepali Yadav
LUXE EFFECT BURBERRY An ode to Burberry’s exemplary black Heritage trenchcoat and London’s bustling nightlife, Mr Burberry Eau de Parfum is a masculine scent with fresh and aromatic notes of tarragon, cinnamon, patchouli, amber and smoky vetiver. MARC JACOBS Created in tandem with Marc Jacobs’ chic fashion aesthetic, Decadence is a warm floral fragrance for women. Exotic blooms such as Bulgarian rose, jasmine, Italian plum, papyrus wood and orris are bottled for fashionable ladies. Scent of TOM FORD Tom Ford’s Private Blend Oud success Wood Eau de Parfum is a strong and musky scent. The sensual concoction is made from the super-exclusive oud wood (wood from the bark of the Southeast We round up the season’s most intoxicating Asian agar tree), rosewood, fragrances for men and women. cardamom, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean and amber. DIOR GIVENCHY Dior’s new perfume, JOY A blend of rich green, by Dior, is a soft-pink spice and wood notes, embodiment of summer. It Gentlemen Only from the is a crisp mix of bergamot, house of Givenchy is a mandarin and jasmine sensual fragrance for the with heady notes of millennial man. The base sandalwood, cedar and of the day-scent is an patchouli for the woman intermix of sandalwood on the go. and vanilla. — Compiled by Shikha Talwar THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 10 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 11 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
PROUST QUESTIONNAIRE Gary Mehigan He’s a chef, restaurateur, author and most famously, one of the judges on the hugely popular ‘MasterChef Australia’. Down in Mumbai for a short trip, we caught up with him on the Indian dish he cooks best and the one person who inspired him to be a chef. What’s your current What is your greatest Which is the worst state of mind? regret? and most innovative Work less, more time with Not spending more time with dish you’ve eaten in family and friends. my daughter when she was the region? young. I had just opened my My mother said that if you What is your first restaurant when she don’t have anything nice to most marked was born and I was doing say then don’t say anything characteristic? horrendous hours. They are at all, so I won’t answer the I’m a cleanliness freak when only with us for such a short first one. But the second I cook. It drives my wife nuts time. I wish I could have that part to the question would as I am constantly cleaning time again. have to be dinner at Orana. up as I go. Anything Jock Zonfrillo puts Which one quality on the menu is innovative. Who is your greatest should every man inspiration in the have? If you had to pick culinary world? Generosity. an animal in South My grandfather. He is the Australia that reason I decided to become If you could change one resembles you, which a chef. thing about yourself, one would it be? what would it be? Murray River Cod, because I Which Indian dish do My ability to eat anything and love to swim. you cook the best? not put on weight. I make a mean curry, and I What’s your top love making Indian breads. I You’re an ambassador bucket list experience am now working on my roti for South Australia. in the country? technique. What’s the most It would be driving down adventurous thing from Adelaide to the Fleurieu What dish or culinary you’ve done there? Peninsula, taking a walk on technique would Walking the roof of Adelaide the beach and enjoying a you like named after Oval in South Australia and lazy long lunch at the Star you? doing the ‘lean back’! It was of Greece. None, I don’t have that sort amazing and terrifying at the of ego! same time. — Interviewed by Joanna Lobo THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 12 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 13 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
BOOKS Decoding corporate India Aarti Kelshikar’s ‘How India Works: Making Sense of a Complex Corporate Culture’ (HarperCollins) fleshes out the cultural nuances and complexities that underlie and impact the way Indians work. It is particularly relevant for the expatriate working in India, the Indian who repatriates and the Indian working in corporate India. We present an excerpt... COMMUNICATING: THE INDIAN WAY In the countries where I’ve worked earlier — Belgium and Germany Before discussing how Indians communicate, it may be a good — communication is content-driven, rational and logical; it’s all black idea to look at the bigger picture: how similar are Indians to other and white. Coming to this part of the world, Singapore is similar. With Asians in their approach? One thing is certain: not all Asians can be Indonesians, you have to find out what they want to say. Filipinos are painted with the same brush when it comes to communication. Of also somewhat communicative but less than Indians. the Asian countries I am familiar with, the Japanese are at one end Research in the cross-cultural domain indicates that Indians of the spectrum, with their highly nuanced, subtle and indirect style are ‘high’ on context when it comes to communication. High-context of communication. Indonesians, Filipinos and Thais are polite and cultures are those where communication is more implicit, subtle and respectful. Singaporeans are more direct and a bit clinical. layered. In India, while people are generally polite and reticent, they This is an Asian’s take on communication styles in countries that can also be expressive and fairly direct, more so than in many of the he has lived in: Asian countries mentioned above. As Kevin remarks, ‘I think Indians THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 18 | winter 2018-2019
are both context- and content-oriented. You need a mix of both communicate well. However, if someone doesn’t understand me, they are approaches; you cannot be only content-oriented or rational here.’ very unlikely to tell me and I think that’s a shame. If I was talking about Consider Virginia’s perceptions on how Indians communicate: something with a group of twenty people, and one of them raised their Communication in India is incredibly direct and there’s almost no filter. hand and said, ‘Actually, I didn’t understand, can you explain again?’ I’d So, if you’re looking tired, you’ll be told you’re looking tired and ‘Are be really impressed with that person! you ill?’ If you’ve put on a little bit of weight, people will say, ‘What Hari shares this enlightening take on the ‘nod’: ‘Most foreigners happened, yeah?’ or they will say, ‘You’ve become fat.’ So it’s very to- assume that it denotes understanding. Not quite. It may convey your-face. It’s very different from the rest of South-East Asia, which is attentiveness and definitely respect. Bottom line, don’t let it fool you. much more aware of hierarchies in society and respect for elders. There Converting instructions into action could be a challenge unless you is that in India obviously, but I would say communication is very direct. probe into what has been understood and follow up. Once established, However, while people may communicate their thoughts and communication is less demanding, and productivity improves.’ opinions, there is one caveat: the hierarchy factor which impacts and dilutes directness socially and professionally. But as Indians feel STICKING TO AN AGENDA comfortable with their colleagues and bosses, they share their views. In his understated, polite Japanese way, an interviewee says, In fact, they may even take it to the next level! ‘Meetings may not be strictly agenda-bound and may deviate to other related topics at times. In Japan, meetings are kept as brief as THE HEAD WAG possible with maximum pre-meeting preparation. In India, sometimes Shaken, not stirred. An apple martini? No, something far more banal we have longish meetings.’ — the head wag, an essential part of the Indian’s communication Whether it is an external or internal meeting, it could be a arsenal. It could be an indication of a ‘yes’ or ‘no’. But it’s seldom so challenge to stick to a strict agenda in India. simple. It could mean anything from ‘I’m listening’, ‘I Meetings are often free-flowing, where one point don’t understand’, ‘You don’t make can lead to another, which can then lead to a sense’, to ‘I agree’ and ‘Yes, I like this completely different subject. The conversation idea, it’s great!’ may digress and not follow a logical, linear line of A person used to a direct verbal thinking as highlighted in this anecdote shared style of communication is unaware of how by Kevin: to read and interpret this complex aspect I work for a German company; I have a military of body language. Here’s an interviewee’s background, so I am used to a linear way of unique take on it: discussion. One goes from A to B to C and The head wag? I love it! In fact, I take it there is a certain structure in the way you plan back to England with me. I find it easy to do, the discussion. Here, it doesn’t necessarily though it’s taken me time to understand it. I work that way. think it’s a really relaxed way of communicating Let’s say you have certain points to — you don’t always have to say ‘yes’. To me, it discuss for a contract. Instead of going in means everything and nothing all at the same order, there is a tendency to interconnect time. It means you’re taking it in, you’re absorbing everything. In the process, it gets more what’s being said, or you’re not, or the other complicated! person is speaking rubbish! You can create a certain framework It’s relevant to mention here that Indians and say, ‘Hey guys, can we discuss along seldom express that they don’t understand these lines?’ That works, but honestly speaking, something. Raising one’s hand and admitting after several years here, I got some feedback from my boss. He said, ‘How ignorance or lack of comprehension, whether it’s in a classroom or a come when you’re explaining, you’re not direct and to the point?’ I think board meeting, is not a common occurrence. Culturally, this has not he was surprised because I’m normally a very direct person. been encouraged. Peter points out: When I told one of my close friends in the industry about this, he Certainly the people we have here are quite bright and can remarked ‘Kevin, you’re becoming an Indian now!’ THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 20 | winter 2018-2019
wHeeLS Called the Vazirani Shul, India’s first homegrown hypercar is an aerodynamically enhanced elegant design paired with a micro jet turbine electric powertrain. Dhiram Shah meets the man behind it, Chunky Vazirani, to find out more. India’s first hypercar takes shape N o one really knows when exactly the are now also purchasing limited edition word “hypercar” was coined, neither supercars, which was rarely ever heard of is there a definite answer to what a few years back. However, the hypercar was the world’s first car to be categorised market in India is practically non-existent. as a hypercar. However, what we do know is Only 5 hypercars in total ever made it to that the term became much more common India, and none of them are in the country when the three automotive heavyweights — any longer. Blame it on bad roads or high Porsche, Ferrari and McLaren locked horns import taxes that push the price tag to a crazy half a decade back to create the ultimate halo nine-figure sum, the hypercar market has car. There are several high-performance cars failed to take off in India. However, Mumbai- built before 2013 that qualify to be called based automobile designer and founder hypercars, but it was the trio of LaFerrari, of Vazirani Automotive, Chunky Vazirani McLaren P1 and Porsche 918 Spyder that can wants to change it by creating India’s first truly be credited for ushering in the age of homegrown hypercar. hypercars. But, one might ask, what exactly separates a hypercar from a supercar? The Powering ahead easiest way to explain that is the hypercar is a Called the Vazirani Shul, the hypercar was supercar of supercars. It’s not merely unveiled at the Goodwood Festival of Speed horsepower but the price tag, ground- in the UK recently. Still in its conceptual breaking technology, rarity and aspiration stage, the Vazirani Shul is an electric value that qualifies a high-performance car hypercar with great emphasis on design; it’s to be labelled a hypercar. arguably one of the best-looking hypercar The market for high-performance cars concepts to be revealed in recent times. and luxury automobiles in India has been The company’s founder Chunky Vazirani is steadily growing over the last decade. In a graduate of Art Center College of Design 2017, Indians bought a record number of in California and has worked as a designer luxury cars, helping all major luxury car with automobile companies like Land Rover, manufacturers post double-digit growth Volvo, Jaguar and Rolls-Royce. “I’ve been an Chunky Vazirani in the country. This year’s sales figures are art lover, but for me, cars are the greatest form unveils the Vazirani Shul expected to be even better. Indian buyers of art because they have movement — they THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 24 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 25 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
“The mission is to make an electric car so sexy and engaging, that we can transition even the most stubborn petrolheads A top view of the hypercar, Vazirani to a cleaner future” Shul; (Below) The back view almost come alive,” he says on his passion lightweight battery pack. This not only Formula One team for the further for design. “we believe outright beauty reduces the weight considerably, but development of Shul. has become very rare nowadays as visual also addresses range anxiety and adds a complexity and ‘designed by engineering’ sound element to elevate user experience. India inspired supersedes the art element that made The mission is to make an electric car so Speaking about the inspiration for India’s millions of people, including me, fall in love sexy and engaging, that we can transition first hypercar, Chunky adds, “I drew upon with cars.” even the most stubborn petrolheads to a my Indian heritage and beliefs to bring to The electric hypercar is powered cleaner future.” life a new possibility for a modern supercar. by four electric motors powering the The turbine-electric motor will be I wanted to portray a different side of India four wheels individually to provide fully paired to a single ratio transmission, similar that is lesser known but as much true. The independent torque vectoring. However, to the Koenigsegg Regera. The Vazirani Shul side that focuses on getting closer to your to keep the weight of the hypercar as low will also use carbon fiber extensively in its soul. we set out to create an alternate as possible, it will feature a lightweight construction to make the hypercar as light as supercar against the traditional aggression battery pack weighing just 300 kg which possible. The exterior styling was developed and attention-focused supercars of the will be charged on the go by a jet turbine. under the guidance of racing driver and world. A car that would create a sublime Several hypercar concepts have been game designer Kazunori Yamauchi, famous observation of true, controlled, quiet revealed in the last few years that use the for creating the Gran Turismo video game power to reconnect one with the self in an same revolutionary idea of electric motors series. The company has stated that it will immersive driving experience.” assisted by jet turbine as a range-extender, work closely with India’s first and only Vazirani Automotive hasn’t divulged including Automobili Pininfarina’s hypercar any specifications and performance figures codenamed PFO. Commenting on the of the hypercar. However, the company’s jet turbine electric powertrain, Chunky founder has said that it will at least have says, “we are addressing the primary 1,000 horsepower. The Vazirani Shul is still problem of electric cars — their in the early phase of development weight. Battery technology and the company claims today is still very heavy, that it has already started and for a hypercar, where working on the functioning the handling and agility prototype of the hypercar matters as much as speed, with a plan to start testing we had to figure out a in the third quarter of this unique solution. Since year. The company has also the turbine acts as an set an aggressive goal of onboard generator, we get getting into production as the opportunity to use a early as 2021. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 28 | winter 2018-2019
BUSINESS As technology invades every aspect of our lives, it also seems to be having a large impact on Art’s new frontier art. Director of Christie’s India Sonal Singh talks to Sandhya Menon about the intersection of art and technology, measures used to combat the proliferation of fakes in the market and the Indian contemporary artists whose works are most coveted by buyers. W e live in exciting times, and that’s probably an understatement. But little is as exciting as the intersection of art and technology. For instance, did you know that early last year in February, the top lot sold online at Christie’s was Meteorites. Yes. And no, that isn’t the title of a piece of art! “Entitled ‘Deep Impact’, the sale was held in February with the Matchless Canyon Diablo meteorite selling for $237,500,” says Sonal Singh, director and specialist head, Christie’s India. The year prior, 2017, had all kinds of churn at Christie’s India. Among the cancelling of its December auction in Mumbai, a hugely anticipated event for four years before, and two of its top employees leaving the organisation, the pre-eminent auction house managed to continue with relentless diligence and precision. We caught up with Singh to get a little peek into that world of seeking, appraising, readying and selling. Immersive art But before that, a quick reminder about the intrinsic connection between technology and art, and how its evolution looks now. Lasers and light are one of the foremost ways artists use technology to create works of art that are truly transformational and interactive. A few years ago, one of the more popular exhibits in a London show was called ‘Assemblance’ and it was designed to encourage visitors to create light structures and floor drawings by moving through coloured laser beams and smoke. The inclination for most people is to work alone, but the shapes they produce tend to be more fragile. If a person nearby bumps into their structure, for instance, it’s likely to fall apart. But those who collaborate with others — even if it’s through an act as simple as holding hands — discover that the light structures Photos: christie’s they create are both more resilient and more sophisticated. Singh, coming from the other side of this business, sees directly into the heart of how technology impacts the buying of art. Not only Deep Impact: Martian, Lunar and Other Rare Meteorites Sonal Singh Director, Christie’s India THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 30 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 31 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
“Works of the masters that changes before creating a final product. But perhaps the best example of how there has never been a better time for art where technology have not been seen for many is concerned is the Google Art Project that brings art from all over the years but are fetching strong world to those who may never see them in their lifetime. Which brings us to the question of owning art. Museums are prices include artists like one thing, and online galleries another, but what about private art ownership in India? “Collectors in India are very discerning and Mohan Samant, Krishna Reddy are extremely aware of the market, their interests and trends. The and Hemen Mazumdar” demographics range from those in their late 20s upwards and, in my experience, younger collectors are a little more experimental with their purchases. In the last six months, Christie’s has sold a wide mix of artworks to our collectors in India, including post- war contemporary art, handbags, watches, wine, jewellery and of course, Indian art,” says Singh. Extremely interesting observation, considering that till perhaps 15 years ago, there weren’t that many 20-somethings that would invest in art unless it was part of something they grew up with. Importance of curators Discernment is made of refining your tastes, educating oneself and really understanding the vision of an artist. And because not everyone who appreciates art manages to encompass these qualities within Below: rooftops by Akbar Padamsee; Sold for: $912,500 Left: Tapovan by Syed Haider Raza; Price realised: $4,452,500 “For any work has it made things like verification and cataloguing easy, it has also created an entirely new market that wasn’t accessible earlier. “The coming into auction online and live platforms play a big role at our auctions today. People at Christie’s, we are able to bid online sitting at their computers. The online sales are the greatest recruiter of new buyers and the website itself is a great carry out a large resource for education and art market news,” she says. Or take the painting, if one may call it that, titled ‘Rising amount of due Colourspace’, rendered on the wall of a Berlin art gallery. At first, diligence, which it probably looks unremarkable. But come back a little later and it looks just a bit different. Come back in some more time, and it is includes checking different some more. That’s because the light is constantly shifting old records, and therefore, the painting is always changing. Another aspect of wildly changing, thoughtful technology is its environmental impact. catalogues, Technology has helped reduce waste in the industry as a whole, as exhibitions and well as for individual artists. Because of technology and the ability to share and send traditionally printed media digitally, fewer pamphlets publications and promotional material are printed. Artists who use technology for works” are able to create sketches, edit photographs and preview design THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 34 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 35 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
View of the New York saleroom during the record-breaking Rockefeller Collection themselves, curators are an excellent place to look to for educating And what about installations? “India is a strange country for oneself about art as well as buying art for yourself. In an environment installations unless they are public, precisely because most of our of great variation in styles of art, an artist’s politics and the curator’s homes aren’t big enough to house them,” says Singh. But when has role, some criticism of Indian curators is always expected. Would it that stopped artists. If you’ve been to the Kochi Biennale or the be fair to say curators in India are, perhaps, mediocre? Singh candidly various art exhibits, it’s hard to ignore how compellingly popular springs to the defence of those who hold India’s art viewing in their installations have become. “Given that homes are usually limited in hands. “I don’t think that is a fair criticism. There are some incredible their size to accommodate very large works, these pieces are often curators and critics in the field of Indian art. People such as Roobina bought by museums and corporate collections,” she adds. Karode and Zehra Jumabhoy have just curated fantastic exhibitions at museums,” she asserts. The most-wanted list Buying art either by personal discernment or with the guidance Before we let her go, we ask her the one thing that almost every of a curator or an agent could all be undone if the art house art enthusiast wants to know. Who are the big names in art today selling you art slips up on the rigorous verification Christie’s that we need to look out for? “In the field of Indian art, there are a prides itself on. So, are fakes a problem? “For any work coming into number of artists to keep in mind. As we are a secondary market, auction at Christie’s, we carry out a large amount of due diligence, the works we sell are not entirely of very young artists. They are, which includes checking old records, catalogues, exhibitions and instead, of those who already have an established market. Works of publications for works. Each specialist department works closely with the masters that have not been seen for many years but are fetching the legal team to ensure works are owned as stated. We do not include strong prices include artists like Mohan Samant, Krishna Reddy and any works that are questionable to us. This process is the same for all Hemen Mazumdar. Some of the contemporary artists who we see to lots offered at Christie’s — in our online and our traditional auctions,” be on all our clients’ wish-lists include Nikhil Chopra, NS Harsha and says Singh. Arpita Singh.” THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 36 | winter 2018-2019
MIxOlOgy It’s the form of a cherry and chilli syrup, and chilli oil added to dry ice. Zorawar Kalra’s Bo Tai in Delhi has a gin-based Full Moon Festival with homemade strawberry and rose syrup, orange spice syrup, spiced vermouth and an edible flower garnish. KOKO in Mumbai all about serves Gunpowder which has homemade roasted almond liqueur, homegrown sandalwood tincture and gunpowder syrup. At The Leela Ambience Convention Hotel in Delhi, bar supervisor Aman Kumar has created a welcome drink of Old Monk rum infused with sugarcane. Much of these homegrown innovations have to do with non- availability of good products that aren’t synthetic or affordable. CREATIVE CONTROL cocktails! At KOKO, hidden from the bar are jars filled with murky liquids. These contain the bar’s homemade tinctures, liqueurs and macerations. Every cocktail served here has at least one ingredient made in-house — South Pointer uses a pistachio liqueur; Doucai has a chrysanthemum liqueur; and Dirty Bones, homemade Amaro. Bartenders across the country are sourcing local ingredients and creating their own syrups, shrubs, bitters and infusions to elevate the cocktail drinking experience, finds Joanna Lobo. T here’s something enchanting about the aroma of a well-made biryani, the steamed grains of rice, the rich saffron and the sweet spices. What if this aroma is used in a cocktail? The Mughal Martini at Hakkasan Mumbai is an experiment by mixologist and Bars Manager (Hakkasan Group), Matthew Hall. It uses quintessentially Indian ingredients — saffron, bay leaf and biryani- infused vodka to create an aromatic and delicious cocktail. The drink speaks to a growing trend being highlighted by bartenders and mixologists across India: a return to homegrown cocktail components (tinctures, syrups, cordials, infusions and bitters) that feature garden-plucked garnishes and local ingredients. “Guests appreciate a drink much more when they hear that much of what went into it At KOKO, Dimitri was made in-house,” says Ajay Prusty, Restaurant & Lezinska relies on Bar Manager, The Leela Goa. the staff to bring back interesting At Rika in Hyderabad, mixologist Roxanne Read Sandlewood ingredients from Old Fashioned their homes uses the chilli in her signature Secret Garden in at Hakkasan THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 40 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 41 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
Mariki Sayles Why put a pre-made raspberry syrup with preservatives when of Goyaa is known for her I can make it myself, fresh?” says Mariki Sayles, partner and homemade mixologist at Mumbai’s Goyaa. bitters, ginger beer and Sayles is known for her homemade bitters, ginger beer and vermouth vermouth. A vermouth infused with marigold and chamomile is the star of her 18:00 Pineapple Express; housemade ginger beer goes in the Shango Sling and orange bitters in the Saffron Jaggery Old Fashioned. “I like working with a lot of aromatic herbs and spices as they add layers to a drink without being in your face. you can change a drinks’ profile by just adding bitters or an infusion,” she says. DESI INSPIRATION This homegrown movement depends largely on what is being termed the farm to glass (or farm to bar) movement: using the freshest locally sourced herbs, flowers, spices and other ingredients. When John leese took over as Beverage Development & Bar Manager at Olive Bar & Kitchen in Mumbai, he visited a lot of markets especially Crawford Market. This helped him find the best “I don’t overcomplicate things, I prefer simplicity. Making a cocktail Olive’s John Leese is about understanding how different components behave and what found inspiration in Crawford Market flavours they add to a drink instead of just smoke and mirrors,” says cocktail guru and in-house mixologist, Dimitri Lezinska. He believes it’s important that the bar staff knows how to make their own syrups, macerations and tinctures as it gives them a better understanding of flavour and improves their skills. “There’s been a shift in focus in the bartending trade in recent years. In 2010-11, there were very few change drivers trying to educate people and change the way people drink their cocktails. Now, with bartenders travelling the world and learning new skills, they are keen to experiment and showcase their expertise,” says Pankaj Balachandran, bartender and founder member of the beverage consultancy, Bar-Back Collective. Beyond just showcasing their skills, creating homemade components allows bartenders to control the drink’s quality, from the amount of sugar to the usage of seasonal ingredients. As everything is made fresh and in small batches, there’s minimal wastage. “Making your own syrups and bitters allows you better balance and you have full control over the taste. They also have better flavour,” adds Aman Kumar. He infuses vodka with spices like cinnamon and star anise; and makes his own orange, chocolate, five spice and pear bitters. “I like to control what I put in my body. When you make your own components, you can control what goes in there and keep it healthy. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 42 | winter 2018-2019
the Library Bar at the Leela Palace new Delhi uses indian ingredients to give a beautiful sensory note to the cocktails spices and herbs to use in his homemade syrups For Ajay Prusty, all he Aman Kumar prefers his experiments to and infusions. “Indian ingredients work really well. be a bit hatke, to create a drink “you won’t get There are combinations that I would not necessarily had to do was turn to the anywhere else”. At Club Cuba, his signature have thought of had I still been in Europe. There is Leela Goa’s three-acre cocktails have fruit and spice syrups, bitters such variety of flavours, why wouldn’t we include and garnishes. He once created a Kala Khatta organic spice garden for them in drinks?” he says, adding that he sometimes margarita using coriander, green chillies and seeks inspiration, and herbs, from Olive’s kitchen inspiration. “indian herbs kala khatta. garden. A personal favourite is fresh green and spices are flavoured At The Library Bar at The Leela Palace New peppercorn, which is infused in Bombay Sapphire Delhi, they make their own infused thyme and to create the Stiff Upper lip (muddled strawberries, and have intense aromas rosemary, green pepper and orange zest, and fresh peppercorn, basil, lemon juice). that give great taste to top- saffron and sweet lime bitters; infusions of At Hakkasan, Matthew Hall has some truly vodka with whole Indian spices; and cucumber end spirits when used to desi essences — sandalwood for the Sandalwood and basil, and cilantro and jaggery syrups. Old Fashioned and a gili mitti (wet earth) fragrance make cocktails.” “There is a major focus on the Indian spices for the Thandai Mule. He also has orange, star anise, grapefruit and and ingredients these days. Things like betel nut, saffron, cardamom, peach bitters; and lychee, apple, and beetroot liquors sourced from his nutmeg, clove, mango and coffee are being used. Indian ingredients visits to local markets. Mariki Sayles, too, spent a year visiting different usually give a beautiful sensory note to the cocktails, and some of markets sourcing ingredients and found a few — bitterweed, and these spices help in adding a different layer to a classic preparation,” Ashwagandha — in Ayurvedic shops. says team leader Ashim Mondal. For Ajay Prusty, all he had to do was turn to The leela goa’s three- At KOKO, Dimitri lezinska relies on the staff to bring back acre organic spice garden for inspiration. “Indian herbs and spices are interesting ingredients from their homes. They introduced him to flavoured and have intense aromas that give great taste to top-end anantmool root (Indian sarsapilla). An anantmool tincture stars in the spirits when used to make cocktails,” he says. To showcase the taste of Seismograph — the cocktail also has a morel mushroom maceration India, he uses cardamom, clove, and vanilla infusions. His experiments (in vodka), a homemade pineau (aperitif made with unfermented raisin include a South Indian Special Mojito made using pressed (fresh) syrup), and brandy. “Indians shouldn’t get restricted looking at recipes curry leaves instead of mint, lime and Brazilian Rum; CNC Martini with from England, Australia and America, but utilise the abundance in cinnamon and clove-infused vodka; and a Vanilla Martini with vanilla- herbs, spices and produce here. Diversity means being yourself, not infused vodka. being different,” he ends. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 44 | winter 2018-2019
FASHION Everyone wants to be dressed by Manish Malhotra — from the international jet-set to Saudi royalty to Bollywood superstars. Having come into the industry with no formal training but a wide-eyed love for fashion, he’s gone on to carve a distinct niche for himself with his über-glamourous bridal and couture wear, besides upping the style quotient of actresses on celluloid. As he celebrates 13 years of his label and 25 years of being a costume stylist in the Hindi film industry, in his most revealing interview yet the master couturier tells Farhad J. Dadyburjor about his upcoming memoir, being inspired by fearless women and how millennials are changing the game. A fashion powerhouse You’ve just completed 13 years of your couture label and 25 years After finishing a quarter of a century in the film industry, my life has “In my opinion, of being a costume stylist in the Hindi film industry. Do you think become one with Indian cinema. Now I feel my journey can inspire having no formal training in fashion actually helped you in letting those who find fashion as their true calling. Through this memoir, I ‘Rangeela’ changed your imagination free-flow? have encapsulated my career, right from my foray into modelling to the way the film Growing up, I was always fascinated with different colours, textiles, designing for the leading ladies of Bollywood. I’d like this book to and the looks people sported. When I watched films, it steered me be an answer to the age-old question of why everyone from Rekha industry saw to Bollywood’s newest generation looks forward to wearing Manish even more in this direction, making me believe that I wanted to be costume design — a part of this at some level. Of course, my career started with the Malhotra, boundless by geography, be it international celebrities like movies, but I wanted to take my creativity and potential beyond the the Princess of Riyadh or the late Michael Jackson. Filmfare magazine silver screen. When I started my label 13 years ago, Indian fashion was Like any narrative, it’s both pleasant and difficult to recall and instituted the still at a nascent stage; the industry made clothes but did not tell the revisit significant moments, successes and even failures of life. stories that went into their making. Through my journey, I feel I have It was a true challenge to share personal incidents and moments in Award for Costume not only created designs, but also crafted memories and narratives an unbiased way so that the readers could experience it, exactly how Design for the first with each collection, and with every individual I have interacted I did. with. Fashion is a profound, evocative experience and it is time ever, which I overwhelming to see how people today have embraced my label and You’ve chosen fashion maven and philanthropist Natasha won. It was a big vision with open arms. Poonawalla as the face of your new campaign. Is she your new muse Looking back, I think that I couldn’t have had a better training and what made you choose to feature her? moment for me” ground to nurture my passion for fashion than the Hindi film industry. As a young cinemagoer, sitting in the pitch darkness of a movie theatre, I have loved sketching since I was young. To me, styling films and I still have that one vivid memory. Long after the credits rolled on the creating costumes fuel my imagination and skill, rather than focus on screen, I remained rooted to my seat, awestruck by a powerful emotion. just building a career. It is always a thrill to be surrounded by creative It was about savouring what I had just experienced over the last three people; being part of a process that millions of people across the hours; it was the enigma of fearless women who commanded the world participate and relate to, one which is part fantasy and yet, part screen. I believed their strength came from beyond a certain character of a deeper reality. So, every movie is about looking at a character with or specific role, because for long, real women, who also happen to be a fresh perspective. my style inspirations, have always surrounded me in everyday life. Natasha is not only a dear friend but also perfectly embodies This year sees the launch of your memoir (authored by senior the Manish Malhotra woman — someone who exudes effortless journalist Sonal Kalra), which chronicles dressing the who’s poise, feminity and makes a statement through individual style. who in India and internationally. You’re quite a private person, This campaign rejoices the tenacious spirit of womanhood and their so how difficult was it for you to open up about various aspects of strength to take on the world. For me, Natasha was an obvious choice your journey? to celebrate the celestial vision of timeless elegance and glamour. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 46 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 47 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
Millennials today are a big market in fashion, with nearly every fashion brand catering to them. What are the differences you’ve noticed when it comes to designing for them? “Every big wedding Since the time I started my label, Indian couture has evolved with the consumer. Earlier there was a quintessential Indian outlook towards in India is now outfits for formal occasions. With global exposure and access to social documented live, media, this has changed to consumers being more open to new ideas. Hence the millennial is a delight to work with. Most of them being with hundreds well travelled, they’re fully aware of the changing trends in the fashion of social media industry. They’re open to adapting western styles and blending them with our traditional heritage. Fashion should be fresh, versatile and users offering bespoke, allowing every designer the leeway to experiment and their opinion push the envelope in their individual capacity with every season. The changing landscape of social media and technology has helped in on what people bringing about a fashion revolution in our country. wore, or using it as India has always had a multitude of crafts and culture to offer to the world and through easy interaction amongst millennials, the inspiration for their access has only grown multifold, across boundaries. I have to say, each own occasions” bride and groom come in with their own set of expectations today and want to participate equally in the curatorial journey, rather than blindly wearing a garment. I choose to believe that working with young people keeps me young! When it comes to menswear, what changes are you seeing with the way Indian men are dressing nowadays? I notice a renewed affinity for craft and global influence — there is so much pride in wearing our heritage and local weaves. While women have always been center stage on the runway, I am delighted to see men gradually carving their niche in the industry and changing things up. The influx of western influences, open-mindedness in fashion, a growing gender-fluid movement that has changed the way Philanthropist we dress contributes to this. New technical advancements in fabric Natasha Poonawalla in Manish Malhotra’s and craftsmanship have empowered menswear. In a luxury format, elegant couture line menswear has evolved and emerged to be more bespoke, stylish and creative. What’s one fashion item you personally would never wear? My energies are so focused towards dressing and creating for others, that I often notice myself shying away from bright colours. My comfort zone is neutral/monotones, but I draw inspirations from a wide spectrum, nonetheless. More than an item, I wouldn’t wear anything that is ill-fitting or uncomfortable. You’ve played a large part in changing costume design in Hindi films, making it far more fashionable. Which would you say was the most iconic outfit that you’ve designed? THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 48 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 49 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
In my opinion, ‘Rangeela’ changed the way the film industry saw really took flight. I recall a time when she tried on an outfit, and it didn’t costume design — Filmfare magazine instituted the Award for look quite right. Still new to the industry, I refrained from commenting, Costume Design for the first time ever, which I won. It was a big but my eyes gave my thoughts away. She coerced the truth out of me. moment for me. When I first met the director, Ram Gopal Varma, In little ways, she made you feel like your opinion mattered, especially once he narrated the script to me, I instantly had a vision of how the when it came from an honest place. During ‘Judaai’ (1997), she went character must be portrayed onscreen. Urmila Matondkar’s Mili was a from being an iconic actor to a close friend. bold, never-before-seen character in Indian cinema — she was spunky, I used to make little cholis and ghagras for her girls when they confident, ambitious and real; someone who embraced her femininity. were younger. Now I’m working with Janhvi, who is a rising bright star “The trust that an iconic star Unforgettable characters need unique looks, and I was glad to see that in the film industry, so it’s funny how life comes full circle. Much like like Sridevi placed in me is audiences just loved it. her mother, she’s a bundle of talent and discipline. Some of the best relationships in my life are a result of my friendship with her. She what encouraged me to think now leaves behind a legacy of exceptional work. I want the world Who has been a mentor for you in the fashion world? bigger and do better. I always At the age of 21, photographer Rakesh Shrestha introduced me to remember her as who she was — an iconic actor, an exceptional to the late Sridevi and said, “This boy sketches really well and person, and just someone real who had her mind and her heart in the addressed her as ma’am, as works in a boutique. Why don’t we start working with him for right place. she was a true mentor” styling photoshoots?” Ever since, Sridevi and I worked in several films as well as styling for her appearances. The trust that an How do you think social media has changed the way we view fashion? iconic star like Sridevi placed in me is what encouraged me to And how do you use it personally, to your advantage? think bigger and do better. I always addressed her as ma’am, as she I feel the industry is seeing a fundamental transformation in how we was a true mentor. Over the years, I learnt much from her, whether create, consume and communicate about fashion in today’s age. Over it was a simple sartorial trick — she taught me that sleeves without the Internet, people are vocal with their opinions on craftsmanship, lining were more flattering on screen, or giving any task at hand trends and designs that we showcase, especially on the national and your unwavering focus. She never believed in doing anything half- global influencers that we dress. The consumer landscape is truly heartedly, and that’s something I have tried to imbibe in my life. It was changing thanks to social media. In a country where cinema and its through her that I met Yash Johar (my favourite producer) and his son influence is as prevalent as it is, actors are looked up to as much for Karan, who is now my closest friend. Soon after, I began longstanding their sartorial choices as for their performances. Bollywood has a associations with Ram Gopal Varma and Boney Kapoor and many other powerful international footprint, with massive popularity, including Bollywood icons, all thanks to her. She will always have a special place social media following, not to mention a front row seat to every in my heart. fashion week. It is only natural that actors mirror the evolution of modern culture onscreen, and off it — with their personal style. Every Yes, I remember the last time we met it was for a photoshoot at your big wedding in India is now documented live, with hundreds of social store with the late Sridevi. There was a lot of love and respect in media users offering their opinion on what people wore, or using it as that room, with her daughter Janhvi at hand for moral support. She inspiration for their own occasions. was one of the greatest champions of your work. What’s your most Luxury is today as much about the experience/the story as it is cherished memory of her? about the product, an idea we are able to share, thanks to technology. I must have been in college when I first watched ‘Himmatwala’ (1983), Currently the label is reaching out to over 8 million people across and I was instantly enamoured by her. Be it those twinkling eyes or platforms. With a 300 per cent growth last year, the label’s social media her graceful poise, I loved everything about Sridevi. I finally met her a presence has truly pushed boundaries across the globe; it has allowed few years later... I remember waiting anxiously at Mumbai’s Mehboob me to stay connected to the world at the click of a button enhancing Studio as she wrapped up a song sequence in a striking red Amrapali accessibility and thus, transcending the constraints of brick-and- costume alongside the legendary Vinod Khanna. She greeted me with mortar stores, all at once. In 2016, we were the first label to showcase genuine kindness, but one couldn’t help notice how reserved she was. a Winter-Festive show for Virtual Reality — the only other designer to She barely spoke. Once the cameras rolled, she would spring to life have done so was Oscar de la Renta. Technology has not only helped instantly. It was almost as if the camera was her best friend. us bridge geographical barriers but also share ‘experiences’ with our It was only in 1993, with ‘Gumrah’, that our work relationship clients and followers. THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 50 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 51 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
TRAVEL Udaipur’s Royal Splendour Enchanting and decadent, the palaces and forts of Udaipur seem like real life entities soaked in history, holding on to many secrets. Pinky Eppaturi visits the lavish abodes and outposts of the Maharanas and leaves mesmerised by their royal repast. Photographs by Siddhant Arya & Hardev Singh Bagore ki Haveli the traditional folk dances of Rajasthan, Gavri, Terah Taal, Puppet Our first stop was Bagore ki Haveli on the Gangaur Ghat that was Dance and the famous Ghoomar dance of Rajasthani royal ladies. A built by the Prime Minister of Mewar, Amar Chand Badwa, in the 18th top favourite is the startling Chari, with women dancing while skilfully century. After his death, the Mewari royal family took control and balancing a flaming brass pot on their heads. Bavai is performed by some of them began living at the mansion. The numerous Rajasthani balancing about nine pots on one artiste’s head. style rooms, corridors, courtyards and terraces with stellar views of Lake Pichola show off their traditional costumes, weapons and City Palace paintings, and give an introduction to the lavish lifestyle of its past The City Palace is a short walk away from Bagore ki Haveli and is still royal residents. the home of the royal family. We entered the hilltop located palace The frescoes, ornate mirror work, mosaic peacocks and regally from the Bada Pol and crossed the ornate, triple-arched Tripolia Gate designed items of daily use are fine examples of skilled Mewari into Manek Chowk. Soon, we were standing in front of the massive craftsmanship. One of the prettiest rooms in the mansion is the edifice that we had seen from our window at the opposite bank. Puppet World. A part of this room replicates a king’s courtroom where Built over a period of 400 years, centuries ago this very spot was royally dressed puppets are shown conducting regular proceedings. used for ceremonial processions, elephant fights and for Maharanas We planned on returning the next evening to watch the famed to be weighed with gold and silver which was then distributed among Jag Mandir appears to be ‘Dharohar’, an entertaining Rajasthani cultural show that is held the locals. According to legend, Maharana Uday Singh constructed the floating on water every day between 7-8 pm at the cozy Neem Chowk inside Bagore City Palace on a hilltop on the advice of a hermit whom he had met on as it is built on an island ki Haveli. Vibrantly dressed artists in their ethnic garments perform a hunting trail. It is believed that successive Mewari rulers constructed THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 52 | winter 2018-2019 winter 2018-2019 | 53 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
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