The Bay of Naples - Elifant Archaeo-Culinary Tours
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The Bay of Naples
Join us in Italy, October 11–18, 2021.
Naples, Italy’s second city and gateway to the South, may
have the most beautiful natural setting in Europe—and the
biggest heart.
Mount Vesuvius, the sleeping volcano whose eruption
buried thriving cities (Pompeii and Herculaneum), luxury
villas, and agricultural estates alike, still looms as a
backdrop to modern life, now threatening, now benign. Its
volcanic soil is the secret to the most flavorful tomatoes,
fragrant lemons, and superb wine-producing grapes.
www.elifanttours.com / info@elifanttours.com / +1-347-868-6345
The Bay of
Naples
FOR THE ROMANS, A TRIP TO A SEASIDE VILLA NEAR GREEK-
speaking Neapolis was the ultimate vacation. The thermal emissions
on the northwest side of the Bay created the ultimate spa.
But the same geology had its sinister side too. Lake Avernus was considered the
entrance to the Underworld. Before undertaking his journey to find his father in the
afterlife, Virgil tells us, Aeneas consulted the Sibyl at nearby Cumae, founded by Greeks
centuries before Rome began to enjoy the area’s many attractions.
Enclosing the Bay on the south is the Sorrento Peninsula, of legendary and unique
natural beauty and our luxurious base for the first part of the week, before moving to
Naples itself.
The Bay of Naples And the food? It’s everything you’ve always loved about Italian food. What do you
The itinerary extends from Capo Miseno, on the expect from the birthplace of pizza? The freshest buffalo mozzarella, the reddest San
northwest, to the tip of the Sorrento Peninsula, on Marzano tomatoes, the richest sauces for the best spaghetti you ever tasted, of course,
the southeast. but wait till you taste what the gourmet chefs around the Bay do with the local seafood.
“When you pick us up that first day I can
just relax, turn it all over to you, and just
go with the flow.”
What’s included?
—Barbara A., Los Angeles
Everything. Once the tour begins, you can go the whole week without opening your
wallet except for your personal insurance (highly recommended), extras, snacks (which
we doubt you’ll want), and maybe some souvenir coral, olive oil, canned tomatoes, or
wine.
The tour price of US$6900 per person (supplement for single room US$950) includes 7
nights bed and breakfast, at least one multicourse Italian meal a day (including wine) as
well as other meals and snacks as described in the itinerary; all activities and transport as
described; airport/train station transfers as described; and tips. Plus the undivided
attention of Elizabeth Bartman and Maureen Fant, Elifant’s principals, who plan and lead
the tour themselves.
The following program accurately reflects the tour at this writing. Details of some meals
and activities are still being worked out. If circumstances should impose a minor change,
rest assured that Plan B will be great too.
Maureen Fant and Elizabeth Bartman, Most travel is by private medium-size tour bus. Within cities, we use smaller vans or taxis
Elifant’s principals where we can’t walk.
Travel note
Our gateway city is Naples. You should plan to be there by mid-morning on Monday,
October 11. We’ll pick you up at Naples Stazione Centrale (75 minutes from Rome) or
Capodichino airport (NAP) and take you to Vico Equense, where the tour begins. It ends
in Naples. We can also arrange a car and driver directly from FCO to the hotel (about
170 miles).
Copyright June 2020
PREVIOUS PAGE: A view of Mount Vesuvius
from Sorrento, across the Bay.
PICTURED ABOVE: Pizza on the Sorrento
Peninsula (left); Roman wall painting of a
glass fruit bowl in the villa at Oplontis (right) info@elifanttours.com / www.elifanttours.com / +1-347-868-6345 2
The Bay of Naples
D AY S
1–3
Monday, October 11 LIFE IN A ROMAN VILLA
It’s about a 45-minute drive south from Naples to our luxury seaside hotel on the Sorrento
Peninsula overlooking the Bay. We begin to get acquainted over excellent pizza in the town of
Vico Equense, but first we make a trip to the kitchen for a demonstration of how it’s made.
“To travel is to live” After lunch, we visit the early imperial villa of Oplontis, excavated over the last several
—Hans Christian Andersen decades. Its exquisite wall paintings, gardens, and enormous pool give a vivid picture of how
the rich and famous cosseted themselves at home with art and nature.
In October, it may still be warm enough for a late-afternoon dip in the Bay off the hotel’s dock
(and if not, there’s the spa pool). We meet again in the early evening for an aperitivo and
illustrated introduction to the week’s adventures. Dinner is in the hotel’s Michelin-starred
restaurant.
Overnight: Vico Equense L, S, D
“The best two weeks of
Tuesday, October 12 THE SORRENTO PENINSULA
eating of my life.”
Few places on earth dare compete with the peninsula for views and natural beauty. Our first
—Bob D., Los Angeles destination is Positano, where we snub the teeming tourists on our way to the site of a recently
excavated (and hard-to-visit) Roman villa beneath the main piazza. Its thrilling frescoes look as
fresh as the day, nearly 2000 years ago, that they were painted. A small museum and
conservation laboratory provide examples of how archaeologists reconstruct the past.
Our gourmet seafood lunch, with sweeping views of the Bay, is even farther out the peninsula, in
the very last village. On the way back, we stop in picturesque Sorrento, the peninsula’s main
town. Because of its (relative) size, number of hotels, and transport connections, Sorrento is too
“O what an account I could give you of the easily dismissed as “touristic.” Rather, it has managed to preserve a delightfully retro
Bay of Naples … there is enough in this Port of atmosphere, with shops for traditional crafts (such as embroidery and inlaid wood objects) as
Naples to fill a quire of Paper — but it looks well as such other famous local specialties as lemons and walnuts. The views are spectacular,
like a dream.” notably that from the fabulous Parco dei Principi Hotel, designed by the modernist architect Gio
—John Keats, 1820 Ponti. We may also visit Sorrento’s small archaeological museum if it has reopened after a long
closure.
Overnight: Vico Equense B, L
Wednesday, October 13 ANCIENT FOODWAYS, MODERN PRODUCTION
What were the ancients eating just before the volcano ended their lives? Among the finds
displayed in the fascinating new antiquarium on the site of an ancient villa rustica (large
farmhouse) at Boscoreale are numerous foodstuffs preserved by the eruption. Next comes a trip
into more recent food history and tradition, a visit to the town of Gragnano to learn how the first
industrial pasta was made and why the best factory-made pasta is still so good. Lunch at the
Meal key: pastificio provides the proof.
B = Breakfast Before returning for our afternoon swim (or spa or siesta), we stop at a magnificent, but little
L = Lunch visited, ancient villa at Stabiae, whose architecture and decorations epitomize Roman luxury.
D = Dinner Aperitivi and dinner will be at an elegant Michelin two-star restaurant in a striking historic
S = Snack or tasting building nearby.
Overnight: Vico Equense. B, L, D
PICTURED ABOVE: a Vesuvian snack of
bruschetta al pomodoro and mozzarella (left);
mosaic dog guarding the entrance of a
private house in Pompeii (center); atrium of info@elifanttours.com / www.elifanttours.com / +1-347-868-6345 3
the Villa di San Marco, Stabiae (right)
The Bay of Naples
D AY S
4–5
Thursday, October 14 FOOD AND DRINK IN POMPEII
A few famous Neapolitans:
No visit to the Bay of Naples would be complete without a day at Pompeii. We skip the basic
Enrico Caruso, tenor
tour and focus instead on ancient cooking, dining, and food supply. Within the network of
Sophia Loren, actress
streets in this once bustling Roman town, we see how bakers, take-out food purveyors,
Antonio De Curtis (Totò), actor
vintners, and others fed a hungry urban populace. Afterwards we experience Pompeian haute
Armando Diaz, World War I general
cuisine over lunch prepared by a young archaeo-chef who riffs deliciously on ancient dishes
Salvo D’Acquisto, World War II hero
and ingredients.
Massimo Troisi, actor
Vittorio De Sica, actor and director After lunch we head to our seafront Naples hotel, our base for the rest of the week.
Roberto Saviano, writer Overnight: Naples B, L
Eduardo De Filippo, actor and playwright
Friday, October 15 THE DARK SIDE OF VESUVIUS; ELEGANT HERCULANEUM
Some Old World wines survived the 19th-century phylloxera blight, and some of them still
grow on the less-known north slope of Vesuvius, near the town of Somma Vesuviana. But
before we visit the vineyard, we tour the remains of an ancient villa and winery nearby.
Normally closed to the public, the site’s showy architecture evokes today’s starchitect-
designed wineries. This ancient soil is the ideal terroir for contemporary wines, and we’ll
“I wish Elifant Tours went taste some over a light lunch at a neighboring winery.
everywhere. I would never travel any
Herculaneum, the afternoon’s destination, is often paired with Pompeii, but the two sites are
other way again.”
very different in their character, history, and archaeology. Wealthier than Pompeii,
—Patty H., Boston Herculaneum has buildings with richer decoration of marble and mosaic. Vesuvius delivered
death in a different way too. The newly excavated area of the sea wall has revealed poignant
evidence of the people’s doomed attempts to flee.
Dinner will be full immersion in Neapolitan tradition.
“… a dense black cloud was coming up behind
Overnight: Naples B, L, D
us, spreading over the earth like a flood …”
—Pliny the Younger
describing the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 CE
Questions about the tour or destination?
Send us an email or give us a ring
(+1-347-868-6345).
PICTURED ABOVE: Taking pasta to be dried
slowly in Gragnano (left); sunset from the slopes
of Vesuvius (right) info@elifanttours.com / www.elifanttours.com / +1-347-868-6345 4
The Bay of Naples
D AY S
6–8
Saturday, October 16 NAPLES ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
The National Archaeological Museum is world-renowned as the repository of the major
finds from the towns destroyed by Vesuvius and is one of the most important collections
“The world is a book and those who do
of antiquities anywhere. It will reward a leisurely morning amid wall paintings and
not travel read only one page.”
domestic objects, many from the houses we saw at Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabiae,
—Augustine of Hippo
but also important sculptures brought to Naples from Rome.
Lunch will be a short walk from the museum. The rest of the afternoon is free for
wandering, shopping, or more sightseeing on your own. We’ll meet up again for a
festive traditional dinner.
Overnight: Naples B, L, D
“I wish Elifant Tours went Sunday, October 17 CAMPI FLEGREI
everywhere. I would never travel any The unique volcanic landscape that lies on the other side of Naples known as the Campi
other way again.” Flegrei (Phlegraean, or Flaming, Fields) endowed many places with religious and mythic
significance in antiquity. Cumae was a Greek colony from early times, but its enduring
—Patty H., Boston
fame was secured by the Cumaean sibyl who proclaimed her history-changing oracles
from a cave that is visitable today. Pozzuoli (ancient Puteoli), ancient Italy’s main port
before the rise of Rome and Ostia, has some important ruins and some curious seismic
activity. At Baia (Baiae), an Aragonese castle houses a spectacular collection of ancient
“One of the very nicest things about life
sculpture. If time permits, we’ll visit the thermal complex that helped earn the town its
is the way we must regularly stop
epithet “naughty Baiae.”
whatever it is we are doing and devote
our attention to eating.” Our final meal together is a full-dress Neapolitan Sunday lunch.
—Luciano Pavarotti The remains of the Roman naval base at Misenum, overlooking the Gulf of Pozzuoli
against the dramatic backdrop of a setting sun, is our last stop of the day and of the
tour. But farewell drinks, snacks, or pizza in or near the hotel are an option for the
evening.
Overnight: Naples B, L
Monday, October 18 DEPARTURE
Individual transfers to Capodichino airport (NAP) or Stazione Centrale, Naples.
B
PICTURED ABOVE: The sea wall of Herculaneum (left);
fishermen selling their catch in Pozzuoli (right). info@elifanttours.com / www.elifanttours.com / +1-347-868-6345 5
Elifant
A NEW RECIPE FOR HIGH-END
CULTURAL TRAVEL IN
THE MEDITERRANEAN
Elifant Archaeo-Culinary Everyone receives plenty of individual Every site visit is an
attention before and during the trip,
Tours are unique, small- whether it’s about travel advice, food adventure in living
group trips for sophisticated allergies, or more in-depth discussion of the
places we’ve seen and foods we’ve eaten. the past. Every meal
travelers who delight in
learning about the ancient is an event.
No elephants in the room
world while indulging in the “Elifant” stands for Elizabeth (Bartman) and
culinary present. (Maureen) Fant, Elifant’s principals.
Liz, an archaeologist with a lively interest in
cookery, is a past president of the Destinations so far
Each archaeo-culinarySM tour concentrates
on a circumscribed area of Italy, the route Archaeological Institute of America and a Emilia-Romagna
defined by the archaeological remains. We prominent scholar of ancient Roman Bay of Naples
may choose the sites because they’re too sculpture. Maureen, an award-winning food Basilicata + Puglia
important to miss or because we have writer, studied classical archaeology before Sardinia
extraordinary access to interesting sites moving to Rome and becoming an expert in Western Sicily
closed to the public. Italian cuisine. Eastern Sicily
Rome
We build a food-related itinerary around the Both Liz and Maureen call on their personal
Southern Etruria
archaeological route. Through fabulous connections in the worlds of archaeology
Abruzzo, Molise, Campania
meals and visits with chefs and niche and food for access to special people and
producers, we learn about contemporary places, but curate and lead the tours
themselves to give their guests all the Contact us
and traditional local food, while the ancient
ruins provide a historical backdrop to how convivial pleasures of traveling with friends. Elifant Archaeo-Culinary Tours LLC
this food culture evolved. Informal talks over Tour participants speak of Maureen and Liz’s 15 West 81st Street, apt. 5A
evening aperitivi often supplement topics knack for explaining their subjects without New York, NY 10024
addressed during the tour. Menus are being either too scholarly or too simple.
+1-347-868-6345
carefully planned to highlight local
Great company www.elifanttours.com
specialties and traditions.
If you’ve read this far, you’ll understand that info@elifanttours.com
Elifant tours are special tours for special Skype: elifanttours
Don’t worry about a thing
people. Group size ranges from 6 to 12, and
The comfort level is high. Hotels range from includes couples, friends, and a good many
very comfortable to downright luxurious, solo travelers. Our meals are like dinner
restaurants from rustic trattorias to cutting- parties with an absolutely fantastic mix of
edge elegant, and travel (except in city guests—often taking their first group tour.
centers) is by private bus. Every hotel choice
involves finding the right balance of charm, And no one ever feels left out. Liz and
location, and comfort. The days are full, but Maureen jointly lead and guide every Elifant
the activity level is moderate. Participants tour and are always available to chat, have a
should be able to walk up to half a mile at a coffee, or talk in greater depth about the
time—extraordinary strength or stamina not day’s subjects.
needed.
PICTURED ABOVE: Detail from the Villa of
the Mysteries, Pompeii (left).
Detail from the mosaic pavement in the
Otranto cathedral (right). info@elifanttours.com / www.elifanttours.com / +1-347-868-6345 6
Terms
AND CONDITIONS
Costs Tour cancellation Health and insurance
The 8-day tour—as per the above Tours are costed on the basis of a minimum All participants should be in good health
description, including 7 nights bed and number of passengers traveling together. If and able to keep up with an active group.
breakfast; meals and other food (including this minimum is not reached, we shall either You are personally responsible for your own
wine), activities, and transport as described; cancel the tour and offer a refund in full or, health and medical treatment. You must
tips; and airport transfers—will cost subject to clients’ agreement, operate the confirm to Elifant that you carry adequate
US$6900 per person. An additional charge tour at the necessary supplement. travel and medical insurance, including
of US$950 is made for a private room. medical evacuation. The tour leader, in
Alterations to the tour conjunction with the appropriate medical
Reservations and payments
We will do our utmost to provide the tour advice, if applicable, has the right to
To reserve space, complete the online disqualify any client at any time during the
described in the published material, but
reservation form or send the information in course of the tour, if considered necessary
retain the right to modify or cancel any tour,
an email to info@elifanttours.com. You will for the medical well-being or safety of the
accommodation, or arrangement due to
then receive an invoice for a deposit of individual, or if, in the tour leader’s opinion,
unforeseen circumstances amounting to
US$3000 per person per tour. We accept the client’s actions are materially affecting
Force Majeure. In such circumstances we
payment, only in U.S. dollars, by personal the enjoyment of the tour for the remainder
will inform you as soon as possible, and
check drawn on a U.S. bank, wire transfer, or of the group. Any decision with regard to
should the change be such that it alters the
paypal.com (including credit cards). You are any reimbursement for any part of the tour
nature of the tour, we shall give you the
responsible for any bank or service charges not completed will be made by Elifant.
choice of an alternative tour or a full refund
related to the payment method you choose.
of all money paid. As we will absorb all
When you submit your deposit, you are Baggage and personal effects
financial loss consequent upon cancellation
bound to the terms and conditions outlined These remain your responsibility and risk at
due to Force Majeure, we shall not cancel
below. all times. Elifant will accept no liability for
any tour for reason of political tension or
loss, damage, or misdirection of your
Cancellation and refunds natural disaster unless the U.S. Department
baggage or effects.
Your deposit is refundable for 30 days after of State so recommends.
the date on your booking form, up to 120 We reserve the right to make, without Airport transfers
days before the start of the tour. You will be notice, minor alterations to the published Please book your flights early to avoid
billed for the balance, due 90 days before program that do not change the nature of disappointment. To arrange for your airport
the start date. After that date, all payments, the tour or the value supplied. transfers, Elifant will need your arrival and
including the deposit, become departure information at least 60 days
If we have to cancel at any time, Elifant is
nonrefundable. Cancellations will be before the start date of the tour. Clients
not responsible for any monies paid to
effective once they are received in writing failing to provide such information by then
others for travel in conjunction with this
and confirmed by Elifant. An administrative will be subject to a surcharge of $50 per
tour, notably any airline cancellation penalty
charge of $100 will apply to all person or be responsible for their own
incurred by the purchase of a
cancellations. If you need to cancel after transfers.
nonrefundable air ticket.
your payment becomes nonrefundable,
Responsibility
you may, with Elifant’s approval, transfer Surcharges
your booking to a third party who satisfies As a condition of participation, each
Our prices are based at the euro–US dollar
the conditions of the tour (we will retain a passenger will be required to sign a Release
exchange rate as of June 16, 2020. We
$100 administrative fee). If we are forced to of Liability, which will be distributed at the
reserve the right to impose a surcharge to
cancel the tour, you will receive a full refund start of the tour.
reflect increases in the exchange rate. If the
without further obligation on our part. increase exceeds 5% of the tour price, we Elifant is not responsible for the
Partial or full refunds cannot be made to will offer you the option to cancel, with a full performance of the services provided by
participants who for any reason do not refund of all monies paid, provided we are carriers, hotels, and agents, and is not liable
participate in some part of the program or notified within seven days of the surcharge’s for any damage or compensation payable
complete the tour, or whose start on the being imposed. to any participant in respect to loss or injury
tour is delayed. For this reason, we highly sustained by the participant, regardless of
recommend that participants carry personal its cause.
travel insurance.
PICTURED ABOVE: Detail of a wall
painting from the Villa of Livia at Prima
Porta, Rome info@elifanttours.com / www.elifanttours.com / +1-347-868-6345 7
Next
HOW TO BOOK
Ready to reserve?
To book, visit our website to complete a Simply indicate your preference on the
booking form online. Or just email us at booking form and we will send you an
info@elifanttours.com. invoice.
To complete your booking, we request a We’ll bill you for the balance of the tour,
deposit of $3000 per person per tour. due 90 days before departure.
Payment may be by check in US dollars Be sure to read the Terms and Conditions
drawn on a US bank, by bank transfer, or by on page 7.
credit card (through paypal.com).
And next …
SARDINIA
Italy’s other island region
April 4–11, 2022
Sardinia
. has all the requisites of paradise: ancient mysteries, a spectacular coastline,
rugged mountains, sparkling beaches with pristine water, pink flamingoes, and fragrant
herbs. A true crossroads of civilizations, the island lies in the geographic center of the
Mediterranean, an hour's flight from Rome. …
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
Across the Rubicon, along the Po
October 17–24, 2022
Beneath the porticoed streets of some of Italy’s most gracious, and livable, cities—
Bologna, Parma, Modena, Ferrara, Ravenna—lie tantalizing remains left by numerous
ancient peoples. Some say the food is the best in Italy. With such products as the real
prosciutto (ham) di Parma, parmigiano-reggiano cheese, and balsamic vinegar, to say
nothing of the original Bolognese ragù, its cuisine is certainly one of the most influential
in the world.
info@elifanttours.com / www.elifanttours.com / +1-347-868-6345 8
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