THANK YOU TO OUR 2018 RPET ROUND TABLE PARTNER: Textile ...
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#TextileExchange18 rPET Meeting Goals • Provide a market update • Identify mechanical rPET intervention points • Updates on chemical rPET innovations • New goals for 2030
#TextileExchange18 rPET Meeting Agenda • 2 minute Introduction by our Sponsor - NSF • 13 minute opening • Goals • rPET Commitment status • Market updates • rPET mechanical supply chain intervention points • future of rPET chemical developments • New goals for 2030 • 50 minute presentations • 20 minute market update ICIS • 20 minute rPET Outside of Textiles • 10 minute microfiber report out EOG – Katy remote • 10 minute break • 125 minute working session • 75 minutes Mechanical – Bill - Where can we intervene and make progress • 15 minutes Chemical – Karla update on the chemical recycling landscape • 15 minutes new goals 2030 based on today’s work • 10 minutes Wrap-up
#TextileExchange18 rPET Commitment Status • Collective usage of rPET among the signatories grew by 36% and did so two years before the challenge’s projected end- date. • Textile Exchange’s 2018 Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report also showed that, among participating companies, the top three rPET users are all signatories of the challenge. • Overall, companies that participated in the Preferred Fiber & Materials Benchmark program, reported a 28% increase in rPET usage.
#TextileExchange18 A review of rPET market Matt Tudball Head of European Markets, ICIS Susan Mair Analytics & Consulting, ICIS
#TextileExchange18 Virgin Polyester Chain PET resin • Global production MEG (mono ethylene glycol) 24 million tonnes para- PTA polyester fibre (purified terephthalic PET melt xylene acid) 41 million tonnes 61 million tonnes 70 million tonnes polyester film Source: ICIS Supply & Demand Database www.icis.com
#TextileExchange18 Recycle Polyester Chain PET resin • Global production MEG 23 million tonnes (mono ethylene glycol) 24 million tonnes para- PTA polyester fibre (purified terephthalic PET melt xylene acid) 61 million tonnes 57 million tonnes 41 million tonnes 70 million tonnes 15 million tonnes polyester film PET PET bottles flake / 4 million tonnes pellet Source: ICIS Supply & Demand Database www.icis.com
#TextileExchange18 PET Melt Phase Capacity Global PET Melt Capacity 140 • PET melt phase CAGR 6.5% from 2000-2017 120 100 • Growth is set to slow going forward Million Tonnes 80 60 • By 2030 recycled PET melt from 40 mechanical recycling is forecast to 20 account for 20% of global capacity - 2000 2003 2006 2009 2012 2015 2018 2021 2024 2027 2030 Virgin Capacity Recycle Capacity • Chemical recycling becoming a more feasible option Source: ICIS Supply & Demand Database www.icis.com
#TextileExchange18 Recycled capacity – China dominates • rPET Melt Phase Capacity 2017 • rPET Melt Phase Capacity 2030 OTHER NORTH OTHER NORTH 4% AMERICA 6% AMERICA 8% 6% EUROPE EUROPE 8% 8% ASIA EXC CHINA ASIA EXC 11% CHINA 15% CHINA CHINA 65% 69% 20 million tonnes 32 million tonnes Source: ICIS Supply & Demand Database www.icis.com
#TextileExchange18 China R-PET Import Ban China PET Waste Imports 250 • 2018 ban on plastics imported into China 200 150 Thousand Tonnes Waste PET • Already seeing production shifting to 100 other countries in Asia 50 • Virgin operating rates increasing as a 0 result Source: China customs www.icis.com
#TextileExchange18 European feedstock price drivers • Crude oil movements drive feedstocks • Drops in crude, naphtha drove down prices in March • September PX/PTA spikes result of tightness in Europe and rise in Asia PX Source: ICIS www.icis.com
#TextileExchange18 European PET price drivers • Crude oil drops narrowed gap between PET and rPET in 2015 • Preference for virgin impacted recycling capacity • 2018 – market tightness impacted prices • US ADD could increase imports Source: ICIS www.icis.com
#TextileExchange18 PET Availability and Production • Sustainability is rapidly becoming top focus for petrochemical industry • European petchem producers buying up recycling companies • Lack of recycling capacity could impact sustainability goal implementation • Opaque market in terms of rPET availability and quality Source: ICIS www.icis.com
#TextileExchange18 Questions and contact Susan Mair Analytics and Consulting Susan.mair@icis.com Matt Tudball Head of European Markets Matt.tudball@icis.com Source: ICIS www.icis.com
#TextileExchange18 Cross Industry Collaboration Maurizio Crippa CEO at gr3n SAGL
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#TextileExchange18 Outdoor Microfiber Consortium: Progress and next steps Dr. Katy Stevens, European Outdoor Group
#TextileExchange18 Outdoor Microfibre Consortium • An industry response to actively understand the problem of microfibre shedding and develop industry based solutions. • This collaborative, brand driven approach encourages more in depth research projects, and facilitates greater levels of understanding and solution building than would be achievable alone.
#TextileExchange18 Microfibre Consortium – why? • Lack of consistent and in some cases contradictory data – including variations in methodology • Uncertainty over scale and severity of the problem based on data • Need for industrial alignment to reduce replication and encourage alignment Roos, Arturin, Hanning, Microplastic Shedding from Polyester Fabrics. Mistra Future Fashion Report. 2017
#TextileExchange18 Outdoor Industry Microfibre Consortium - Outputs Strategy • Roadmap – complete • Infographic - complete Integrity • Test method development – draft method available Oct 2018 for validation process Research • Don’t feed the fish – complete • Virgin v’s recycled – in progress • Understanding colour – in progress Product development • Tools for product development teams • Product based solutions
#TextileExchange18 Microfibre Infographic: Why?
Outdoor Industry Microfibre Consortium - Microfibre Management Infographic 1.0 #TextileExchange18 Microfibre release from garments, is a cross industry challenge affecting all fabric types, through in-process manufacturing and consumer use (through fibre pull out and fragmentation). Solutions to this challenge will be found in cross-industry process modifications and fabric reengineering. fibre release c tu r ing micro fa manu ocess Pr Solution Finite dye Renewable 2.Fibre Yarn dye Content Creation: Recycled Ra w M ter ial s Sophie Mather 1.Raw Materials a 3.Yarn www.biov8tion.com http:/ www.biov8tion.com Fib re Yar n F a b ric C olo ur F in is h G ar m e nt Design Realisation: C o nsu m er Esther Inwood Young 12.End of Use Launder 4.Fabric Waste Water Social & Environmental End of Use 11. Social & Environmental 10.Waste Water 9.Launder 8.Consumer 5. Colour Garment Dye 7.Garment 6.Finish www.europeanoutdoorgroup.com
#TextileExchange18 The Outdoor Industry Microfibre Consortium: Work-Streams The Microfibre Infographic will be used as a framework to guide the work of the consortium.
#TextileExchange18 Test method development • Method due for public release Q4 2018 • Extensive in house repeatability and validity testing complete • Multi lab reproducibility testing to carried out over coming weeks • Inclusion in global discussion to develop single harmonised test method
#TextileExchange18 Manufacturer projects Virgin v’s recycled Understanding colour This work will answer the questions This work will answer the questions 1. Does recycled raw material effect 1. What effects do different colouration microfibre loss at the product level? methods? 2. Which recycling processes are less 2. Which processes / routes to product are impactful than others, and what less impactful than others and what understanding can we apply to understanding can we apply to engineering new solutions? engineering new solutions? Project progress • Samples prepared and ready for testing (dependent on release of test method) • Expected completion – Q4 2018
#TextileExchange18 Microfibre Consortium: Roadmap 2.0 1. Structure & Strategy Earlier 2018 2019 2020 2021 • Facilities measurement Ensuring the consortium is positioned to deliver product development support to its consortium members. Consortium Forms Consortium Evolves • Process measurement 2. Integrity • Filament v’s spun Embedding Microfibre management, within global and national policy. Leeds University mRES (‘18) Leeds University mRES (‘19) • Understanding manufactured EURATEX_AISE_EOG_CIRFS_FESI One standard apparel & textile certification to asses fibre loss. AATCC cellulosics 3. Research Cotton Inc • Fabric structure and fabric Patagonia_Bren Environmental research to identify the scale of the issue and industry Mistra_Sandra Roos Facilities Measurement Process Measurement finishing research at the polymer, fibre, yarn, biov8tion_Leeds University fabric, garment and laundering level. Consortium: rPET/PA and Colour Filament vs Spun P&G SINTEF Mermaids Understanding Manufactured Cellulosic Used for the creation of understanding, development, Fibre Clean (Antex Spain) EMPA • Entry level product development Design industry & Brand guidance and product Hohenstein Fabric Structure and Fabric Finishing solutions. Swerea tool BSI Germany_Textile Mission • Facilities best practice document 4. Tools & Communication Development of tools for the Mermaids The Women’s Institute • Textile measurement / process acceleration of best practice. OIA Consumer Communication The Story of Stuff A singular consumer facing Entry Level Product Development Tool measurement tool update communication to be used globally to Facilities Best Practice Document (ITMA) Design & Brand align on understanding and best Textile Measurement / Process Measurement Tool Update practice. Updated : September 2018 5. Product Solutions • Tool supports product www.biov8tion.com The creation of product solutions at Tierra the polymer, fibre, yarn, fabric and garment level that can demonstrate Design & beBrand Cora Ball & Guppy Friend development at brand, retail, and improvements and communicated Pontetorto BioPile Tool supports product development at brand, retail and supplier level at the consumer level. supplier level Key DISCLAIMER: Completed In Development Proposed This roadmap is intended to be used in conjunction to the infographic and represents of the depth of work currently being undertaken as well as opportunities for new work-streams. Inclusion in this roadmap does not indicate the endorsement of the quality of the work included within it, which varies greatly.
#TextileExchange18 Thank you katy.stevens@europeanoutdoorgroup.com
#TextileExchange18 Recycled Polyester Working Group Bill Jasper Two Eleven Associated
#TextileExchange18 Recycled Polyester Working Group How do we increase polyester recycling into yarn and fiber?
#TextileExchange18 Recycled Polyester Working Group • Is polyester bottle and waste recycling to fiber really green? • Status today • Less than 15% of polyester fiber and yarn is produced from recycled materials • Both mechanical and chemical recycling available, but mechanical dominates • Economics are a challenge for either • Let’s focus on mechanical • Mechanical economics • Some observations based on a project I prepared for a green field installation.
#TextileExchange18 Recycled Polyester Working Group • What are the factors inhibiting growth in polyester mechanical recycling? • Economic model does not work if competing with virgin commodity yarns • Local availability of clear waste bottles • Consumer demand? • Many producers recycled products have consistency issues • Others?
#TextileExchange18 Recycled Polyester Working Group • Lets break into groups, each focused on one factor • Develop a plan: • Brainstorm ways to overcome the factor • Identify the most feasible and promising • Develop a plan to overcome that factor • Plan should include: • What has to be done? • Who has the ability to do it? • Government • Brands and retailers • Suppliers • Associations • How would you execute it?
#TextileExchange18 Recycled Polyester Working Group • A few groups report out • We will collect and communicate all results to all in the groups • We will distill the results into a potential plan
#TextileExchange18 Chemical Innovators • Carbio • Gr3n • HKRITA • Jeplan • PerPETual • Worn Again
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#TextileExchange18 !"#$%& '()*$!&+,-./01/"&2*"34-(" ! MAKING PLASTIC CIRCULAR
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#TextileExchange18 Goals 2030 • TBD
#TextileExchange18 Wrap Up • 2018 • 2019 projects
#TextileExchange18 Next Steps for 2019
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