SUZYPFW: LOUIS VUITTON, MARGIELA, MIUMIU AND SACAI CELEBRATE DOING IT THEIR WAY - GLOBELIFE
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SuzyPFW: Louis Vuitton, Margiela, MiuMiu And Sacai Celebrate Doing
It Their Way
Fashion in the time of Covid
With colour, theatricality and originality, four insecure weeks of fashion shows have come to an end. The uncertainty facing
designers in the time of Covid-19 led to cancellations of regular shows and a general move towards digital presentations.
But anyone who believes that these traditional shows in the four fashion capitals are over after more than 70 years should look
at how Louis Vuitton and others presented their Spring/Summer 2021 collections – albeit in vast spaces to comply with social
distancing.
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Sacai Spring/Summer 2021
And bravo, too, for the stay-at-homes. Miuccia Prada presented MiuMiu on-screen with a bubbly energy. While for Maison
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Margiela, John Galliano told a story as breathtaking in its realisation of hot blood in the world of tango as in the array of elegant
clothes and accessories, designed and made during the pandemic.
Meanwhile, the possibilities of worldwide fashion presentations in the future were summed up by Sacai, whose designer Chitose
Abe usually shows in Paris, but this season beamed her work into cyberspace from her studio in Japan, via Instagram.
Louis Vuitton
As the camera swooped and stilled inside the elegant emptiness of the renovated Paris department store, La Samaritaine, the
Louis Vuitton show seemed like the essence of fashion futurism.
The future of footwear by Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2021
Except that the first outfit shown was a statement for now. “Vote” read the sporty top above tailored, mannish trousers – surely
a reference to upcoming American elections.
Designer Nicolas Ghesquière has caught a moment in our times with a different approach: Gender signals have faded away so
that it seems irrelevant who the loosely pleated trousers or long, light outerwear are destined for.
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Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2021
It was the coats that told the story for the androgynous models in the Vuitton collection, as they walked around different areas of
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the empty floors, with hems almost sweeping the ground. Some of the big, bold jackets – especially one shimmering with a
silver surface – had a futuristic feel.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2021
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But it was all in the mix, as so often with Ghesquière, where a tough modern generation was dressed in a mix of Futurism and
Eighties shaping. Only half the story was shown by the silhouettes, for fabrics have changed so much in four decades
that painterly dashes of grey on a tailored white suit can no longer be noted as male/female or day/evening. Definition has
disappeared.
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Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2021
Ghesquière’s skill is to blend technology with luxury. He was probably the first designer to link those two elements – and
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certainly at a top-end brand.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2021
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The result has been to give Louis Vuitton a definition beyond its famous handbags, although they too were striking for their flat
shapes, vivid green colours, and a feeling – not always the case at LV – that the cut of the clothes had shaped the accessories.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2021
Other striking notes? The fabrics with a silvery sheen, giving the impression that for the designer, life on Mars is not that far
away.
Maison Margiela
The spine-tingling sexuality, the tension between two bodies, the blood-red colour washing against white – John Galliano’s
presentation for Maison Margiela must be one of the greatest he has ever shown. Yet all that sensuality was only on film.
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Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2021 by John Galliano
Working with photographer Nick Knight, the two created a story of passion and intrigue: dancers submerged in water trailed with
pagina 10 / 23blood, and an impeccably dressed man reliving the drama in his old age.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2021 by John Galliano
pagina 11 / 23Juxtaposed with this riveting story was Galliano in his studio, talking about up-cycling and the meld of clothes for males and
females, his passion for a long-distant visit to Buenos Aires still palpably strong.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2021 by John Galliano
pagina 12 / 23How to explain the wonder of this designer at his best? It is his mixture of technique and storytelling. For this Spring/Summer
2021 season there was a focus on tailored cutting, especially coats with high shoulders, or jackets made in the same shape, but
in white cotton, perhaps with a dickie at the breast.
The nobility of the clothes came from the way the fabric touched the body, revealing bare skin. This sensuality fluttered through
until the tragic finale of the film, when the arranged marriage of the two main characters set a perfectly tailored white men’s suit
against the wedding dress, its transparent chiffon drowning in the water.
pagina 13 / 23Maison Margiela by John Galliano, Spring/Summer 2021
The clothes alone were heart-throbbing enough. The story line more so. Equally fascinating were the discussions between the
pagina 14 / 23designer and his team, filmed in his studio. It is a long time since Galliano has created such a powerful fashion moment. But this
was it.
Miu Miu
Miuccia Prada made a witty joke at the Miu Miu show. The fans waving from the back of the audience were virtual figures, to
suggest that the show that always closes the Paris Fashion Week season was actually taking place in flesh and blood – not as a
digital vision from the designer’s native Italy.
pagina 15 / 23Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2021
Anyway, the clothes themselves were for international, sweet young things – not so much innocent as cute and of-the-moment.
pagina 16 / 23And perky – especially as nearly each one of the short, pert outfits or soft track pants had a splash of colour.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2021
pagina 17 / 23White was the only competitor to the sporty orange top and yellow skirt, or the zippered jacket in pink with a pastel-blue skirt.
There were even patterns spelling out “MiuMiu” – an effect that seems to be a thing for the next summer season.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2021
pagina 18 / 23Mrs Prada, as she is always called, does decoration in a thoroughly modern way, adding a cross here or perhaps puddles of
pattern on a blank background.
It all adds up, as ever at Miu Miu, for a youthful prettiness that signals a new 21st-century cool. And the new poster girl? Lila
Moss, the sweet eighteen-year-old daughter of Kate Moss, whose stage appearance will surely start a new generation game.
pagina 19 / 23Lila Moss modelling for the Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2021 show
Sacai
So it was breakfast in Europe, but not in Japan, for the filmed Sacai show, which was live, yet also immersed in other elements
pagina 20 / 23of backstage and runway.
Sacai Spring/Summer 2021
pagina 21 / 23Against a rainy landscape, Creative Director Chitose Abe offered deep-blue dresses, or tops and trousers patterned in variations
of turquoise. She then moved on to another vision – of black and beige for loose tops and skirts, all difficult to see on screen.
Sacai Spring/Summer 2021
pagina 22 / 23But what makes them special is the spirit of a designer whose skill is to give simple, modern clothes a twist of handwork. And
that could sum up a powerful feeling that has swept through the Spring/Summer 2021 season.
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