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Sommelier INDIA
INDIA’S PREMIER WINE MAGAZINE 17TH SUCCESSFUL YEAR CONTROLLED CIRCULATION
AUTUMN 2021 `250
THE WINE MAGAZINE
ITALIAN
ESTATES
PARTNER WITH
NAPA WINERIES
page 36
INDIAN
RIESLINGS
RISE TO THE OCCASION
page 48
ASHISH KAPUR
RESTAURATEUR WHO
LOVES WINE
page 42
BLAZING A NEW
TRAIL IN CALIFORNIA
SIX INDIAN WOMEN page 24
contents VOL 17: ISSUE 3, AUTUMN 2021 `250
Volume 17 Issue 3
Autumn 2021
Founder Reva K Singh
Publisher Shiv B Singh
Advisory Council
Dhruv M Sawhney – New Delhi
24 Ravi Viswanathan – Singapore
Sanjiv S Dugal – Providence, USA
Editor in Chief Reva K Singh
Chief Copy Editor Bunny Suraiya
Tastings Co-ordinator Gagan Sharma
Correspondents – India
Alok Chandra, Brinda Gill, Aditi
Pai, Kaveri Ponnapa, Ruma Singh
Correspondents – Overseas
Renu Chahil-Graf – EU, Rosemary
George – UK, Mira Advani
Honeycutt – US, Michèle Shah
Alessandra Piubello – Italy,
Carol Wright – UK
Contributing writers
Raghu Bahadur, Sourish
Bhattacharyya, Raymond Blake,
Shoba Narayan, Jon Wyand
Administration and Accounts
Harendra Singh
Mira Advani Design Inkspot Inc
Honeycutt is the Layout Artist T M Jose
Wine Editor of Printed at
PASO Magazine, EIH Ltd, Unit Printing Press,
Plot no. 22, Sector 5, IMT Manesar,
based in Paso Haryana - 122050
FEATURES Robles. She is curator and writer of
Sommelier India is a controlled
“Signature Wines & Wineries of
circulation quarterly produced by
Coastal California”, curator of “The CMI, Consolidated Media Int,
24 INDIAN WOMEN IN WINE BLAZE A TRAIL Winemakers of Paso Robles” (both C-320, Defence Colony, New Delhi –
110 024, India. T +91-11-2433-1013.
IN CALIFORNIA Mira A Honeycutt profiles six large format coffee table books) and E team@sommelierindia.com.
Indian women who are making a name in an the author of “California’s Central W www.sommelierindia.com.
industry dominated by men Coast, The Ultimate Winery Guide”.
Subscription: One year `1000
She also writes for the Napa Valley Two years `2000. Three, `3000
Register. Mira has chronicled the The views expressed in the
wine world for several international publication are the writers’ own
and not necessarily those of the
publications and has written on publishers.
international cinema for The
Hollywood Reporter.
2 Sommelier INDIA JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 Sommelier INDIA 3
BLAZING A NEW “It was a deep dive,” said Anita who
accompanied Varinder on the trip and the two
TRAIL IN CALIFORNIA
got an in-depth tour of vineyards and wineries.
Soon the couple was interning with one of
Paso’s most esteemed winemakers, Eric Jensen
at his Booker winery. Two years later, they
Mira Advani Honeycutt meets six women of Indian descent
acquired Copia Vineyards, not far from Booker.
who are making a mark in an industry dominated by men I meet Anita and Varinder at their hillside
Copia Vineyards, a 50-acre ranch on Paso’s
M
prestigious Willow Creek District appellation,
en dominate California’s wine rich with calcareous soil. Their contemporary-
industry. Women are very style home sits on a hilltop complete with
much a minority. Although an infinity pool, a rose garden and a lush
women have come far in recent vegetable patch.
years, according to a 2020 study conducted by Some 20 acres were planted in 2019 to Syrah,
Mira Advani Honeycutt
Women Winemakers of California and Beyond, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon
approximately only 14% of the 4,200-plus bonded and Petite Verdot. Their first few vintages
wineries in California report a woman as their were produced with fruit sourced from Paso
lead winemaker and even fewer as winery owners. and Santa Barbara County vineyards. This
Yet, almost under the radar, there is a handful year the Sahis look forward to their first Copia
of Indian women who are blazing an impressive Vineyards harvest. While Varinder is the cult winery, Dalla Valle Vineyards. (See page 36) Priyanka Dhar
French, Napa’s
trail in this patriarchal landscape. This group hands-on winemaker, Anita brings her culinary Is it any wonder that she was head-hunted
first Indian woman
includes vintners such as Anita Sahi, Priyanka knowledge and experienced palate to the in 2019 by Napa’s historic Signorello Estate winemaker
Dhar French, Anisya Fritz, Neeta Mittal, Janu blending table. for the winemaker position? Here, as the third
Goelz and Raghni Naidu. Reflections of Anita’s heritage come through winemaker of a winery known for complex
Mykaela Faulconer
All these women are following their passion in her gracious hospitality when she’s curating and structured Napa Cabs and a brilliant
to produce a range of wines from Bordeaux, and a tasting experience. “Taking care of people is Chardonnay, she will continue to uphold its Priyanka was
Rhône-style to Burgundian varietals, from Napa a mark of pride,” Anita expressed. The Indian decades-long legacy.
and Sonoma to California’s Central Coast, and touch is reflected on the labels in the style of In the devastating 2017 Napa fires,
head-hunted
picking up awards and high ratings along the way. Anita Sahi and York’s restaurateur Drew Nierporent where the Saraswati mantra. “The triangle represents Signorello’s original winery, founded in 1977, in 2019 by
husband, Varinder
For all of them, their traditions and family values
pictured among
her true wine education began, helping her to knowledge,” she said, referring to the knowledge was destroyed but the vineyards were saved. Napa’s historic
have been the assets they bring to their profession. the vines at Copia develop a sophisticated palate. “To be able to she continues to gather on her wine journey The rebuilding process has started with
Vineyards
Signorello
“Failure is not an option,” said Janu, echoing her orchestrate dinners using a Wine Spectator Grand with Varinder on their Copia estate. ground breaking scheduled this summer.
parents’ emphasis on success. “We were brought up Award winning wine cellar that is 20,000-plus Copia’s annual case production is 1,500 cases. Overseeing construction of the new 28,000 Estate for the
with sweat equity,” commented Priyanka, whose bottles deep was a privilege,” recalled Anita. Its portfolio includes Rhône-style blends and square foot winery and caves is among winemaker
parents emphasized the importance of education. Anita met her husband Varinder Sahi in Chardonnay. Priyanka’s responsibilities. position as
“That has been a cornerstone for me.” Chicago in 2015. A one-hour date over a glass of “I’ve always followed the path of estate-
Provençal Rosé, arranged online, led to 12 hours PriyAnkA DhAr French, Winemaker, driven wines,” said Priyanka, a Mumbaikar
the third
AnitA SAhi, Proprietor/General Manager, Copia together. The romance had clearly kicked in Signorello Estate, Napa Valley who at the young age of 34 has amassed winemaker of
Vineyards, Paso Robles and the two moved in together in Indianapolis Priyanka’s power-packed resumé reflects not a wealth of knowledge while interning or the winery
Born and raised in the Chicago area, Anita where Varinder was based. At the time, his only her experiences in global wine regions working at wineries in France, California and
Kothari was drawn to all things culinary at a young family owned vineyards in Lodi, California, but also her work alongside such luminaries as New Zealand, where she met her husband
age. From her stints in television and with public which motivated Varinder to study viticulture renowned enologist Michel Rolland and noted Alex French.
relations firms, she transitioned to the restaurant at the University of Davis California. Part of the winemaker Andy Erickson during her five-year Priyanka comes from a family of scientists
industry working with such luminaries as New course included a trip to Paso wineries. tenure as cellar master/viticulturist at Napa’s so she knew early on the general direction in
24 Sommelier INDIA JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 Sommelier INDIA 25
contemporary-styled hospitality lounge. “We of our culture.” She views her winery team as
are not looking at short term.” one big joint family. “We belong to each other
With a background in international business, and this place.” Neeta Pillai was
Anisya met Lynn Fritz in 1996 when the two Anisya is also rooted in the community as she
founded the Fritz Institute in San Francisco, mentors young people interested in food and
always drawn
a humanitarian non-profit organization with wine. Since business is such an essential part to the Indian
a global outreach including India. Along the of the industry, in 2012 she created a ten-week arts and it’s
way, they got married. It wasn’t until 2008 that Certificate course in Wine Entrepreneurship
the richness of
Anisya decided she needed a hiatus. That’s that she teaches at nearby Sonoma State College.
when Lynn proposed she take on the role of Lynmar’s annual production is 11,000 cases. Indian culture
Lynmar’s Director of Consumer Experience, an Its portfolio includes Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that has been
aspect that was fast becoming a significant part crafted by winemaker Pete Soergel. instrumental
of the California wine industry.
“I didn’t know anything about wine; I had neetA MittAl, Co-Founder LXV Wine,
in creating the
to learn from the ground up,” said Anisya, a Paso Robles LXV image
former executive who drew on her business Achieving the status of one of the Top Ten
acumen to manage sales and hospitality. tasting rooms in America by the USA Today
Anisya Fritz, which she was headed. Chemistry caught her a taste of the Indian wine scene. She decided to There were challenges in learning the newspaper is no small feat. The LXV Wine Neeta Mittal
oversees the introduced wine
gardens and attention, especially food sciences. “It’s an continue with her travels to New Zealand and business from scratch, especially the language Tasting Lounge is a sensory landscape of wine and spice pairings at
culinary programme application-based science,” said the pragmatic then to Napa at Della Valle winery. (See pg 36.) of wine and food, admitted Anisya, who now and spices, located in a humble shopping strip in LXV Wines
at Lynmar Estate
winemaker, who graduated from Mumbai’s The young winemaker’s goal is to carry her meticulously manages the gardens as well as
Institute of Chemical Technology. The knowledge back to India’s wine industry. She the culinary programme.
introduction to wine came via one of her college admits that she’s not familiar with India’s Lynmar Estate began with the 40-acre Quail
field trips, which included visits to a spice tropical wine environment, but feels that Hill Ranch acquired by Lynn in 1980. The
blending company, the Amul milk processing she could in the future bring her technical original parcel has grown over time to the
Lynmar Estate unit, the Parle biscuit factory and Sula winery knowledge to this burgeoning wine region. current 102 acres as Lynn began acquiring
is a paradise in Nashik. The last one appealed to her. “But for now, I know I’m needed here, while neighbouring parcels and pieced together a
tucked into Priyanka’s plans to study winemaking they rebuild Signorello,” she says. contiguous ranch. In 1990, Lynmar Estate was
abroad didn’t sit well with her parents, but Signorello’s annual production is 3,000 cases. Its established, and began producing Pinot Noir
the small town they recognized her determination. She was portfolio includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Chardonnay from its 40-acre vineyard
of Sebastopol. accepted into the Masters’ Programme in Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. planted in 20 different blocks and farmed to
Acres of well- Adelaide, in Bordeaux and at the University sustainable practices.
of California Davis (UC Davis). She chose the AniSyA Fritz, Proprietor/Director of Consumer Hailing from Kerala, Anisya née Thomas,
manicured
latter and graduated with a Master of Science Experience, Lynmar Estate, Sebastopol, came to the US in the early 1980s and received
vineyards degree in Viticulture & Enology. Sonoma County her Masters Degree in Business from Virginia
form a mosaic It was here that Priyanka earned internships Located in the heart of Sonoma’s Russian Polytechnic Institute and State University.
around bursts at such prestigious wineries as Napa’s E River Valley appellation, Lynmar Estate is But she grew up as a military brat travelling
& J Gallo and Louis Martini, and later at a paradise tucked into the small town of across India. “Twelve schools in twelve years,”
of flowers and Hospices de Beaune in Burgundy, France. Sebastopol. Acres of well-manicured vineyards she mused, an experience she claims was
an abundant Of her multiple experiences, Priyanka states: form a mosaic around bursts of flowers and an helpful in the earlier days of working long
vegetable garden “My biggest education has been expanding abundant vegetable garden. hours at the winery with different people.
my own palate. This is the result of the long-term vision “You learn to be flexible.”
In 2011 she was tapped by Tonnellerie of Anisya Fritz and her husband Lynn. “We Hospitality, said Anisya, is a significant
Demptos to represent its French oak barrels in are here for a lifetime as stewards of the part of Indian culture. “Sharing warmth and
India, a stint that lasted one year and gave her land,” she told me, seated in Lynmar Estate’s treating strangers like family is an essential part
26 Sommelier INDIA JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 JULY-SEPTEMBER 2021 Sommelier INDIA 27
Paso Robles’ quaint and charming downtown the deck of her ranch overlooking the well- different wines, its fruit sourced from the
area. The LXV Ranch, on the other hand, manicured vineyards. appellations of San Benito and Arroyo Seco in
home to the Mittals’ newly planted Armaa.N The Mittals were based in Los Angeles (she nearby Monterey County. Production is done at
Janu knew Vineyard, is on Paso’s prestigious appellation was a screenwriter/producer and he was an IT a winery in Paso Robles and a tasting room is
of Willow Creek District. The 13.5-acre executive at Sony Studios) when they decided to located in downtown Morgan Hill. (All these
she was on the property is planted to eight acres and includes commit to producing wine and discovered the locations are no more than an hour or two
right path when Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet region of Paso Robles. Their LXV Wine brand driving distance from each other.) Alara wines
her very first Franc and Syrah. was launched with the inaugural vintage of reflect Janu’s free spirit. “I’m not a scientific
Holding an engineering degree, 2010 Rising Tempo, a well-received Rhône-style winemaker; I’m more palate-driven,” said Janu
vintage of 2017
Mumbaiker Neeta Pillai was always drawn blend, its fruit sourced from Paso vineyards. of her well-defined palate that owes much to her
Grenache Blanc to the Indian arts and it’s the richness of “In two years we decided this is not us,” said heritage of Singaporean/Indian food.
won “Best of Indian culture that has been instrumental Neeta. Her palate favoured Sangiovese and Annual production is 2,000 cases of Chardonnay,
Show” at the in creating the LXV image. Of her heritage, Kunal leaned toward Bordeaux. The LXV Pinot Noir, Barbera, Sangiovese, Negrette and
Mira Advani Honeycutt
Neeta says, “It’s actually been an advantage.” portfolio has since evolved to reflect their tastes, Cabernet Pfeffer.
Central Coast She has woven an Indian-ness into the world Bordeaux-style wines crafted by noted Paso
Competition in of food and wine and LXV is now known for winemaker Jeff Strekas. Fruit for the wines is r AGhni nAiDu, Owner/founder, Naidu
2018 its wine and spice pairings. sourced from Paso and Santa Barbara County Vineyards & Wines, Sebastopol, Sonoma
Neeta and Kunal Mittal, who celebrate vineyards and produced at a Paso winery. County
their 20th wedding anniversary this year, met LXV Wine’s annual case production is 2,000 Raghni’s approach to showcasing her brand “That’s what got me where I am today,” said Raghni Naidu, an
immigrant woman in
as students at the University of California cases. Its portfolio includes Bordeaux style blends goes beyond just a typical visit to a wine tasting Raghni, adding that their weekends were spent the changing California
Berkeley. Their stomping ground was nearby and Sangiovese. room. She has curated an immersive experience exploring the Napa and Sonoma wine country. wine industry
Free spirited Janu
Goelz pictured at
Napa Valley. “Our romance started in wine of the Sonoma lifestyle with a stay at Naidu’s In 2018, the Naidus acquired the nine-acre
work in the winery country,” said Neeta, as we chat seated on JAnu Goelz, Founder/winemaker, Alara private and secluded guesthouse where the ranch which had been planted to a Pinot Noir
Cellars, Morgan Hill, Santa Clara Valley wines can be savoured along with a tour of vineyard in 2000.
Janu knew she was on the right path when the vineyards, local farms and lavender fields. “I’ve lived in different countries and my
her very first vintage of 2017 Grenache Blanc “Enjoy the wine country at your own pace, experiences have shaped who I am today,”
won “Best of Show” at the Central Coast create a memory of it,” Raghni recommends. Raghni reflected. Her heritage and family Raghni
Competition in 2018. Not only was this the The day I visited Raghni, the guesthouse was values, she explained, enables the hard work grew up in
first time she had worked with this variety, but occupied so we tasted the wines under an oak and perseverance that she brings to her business
it was also the very first time she had entered tree in her four-acre Pinot Noir vineyard. “Pinot every day. The backbone of the California wine
Amritsar where
a wine competition. “I must have been doing is what got me into drinking wine,” she said of industry was and are immigrants, Raghni fine dining
something right,” said Janu. her choice for this appellation. points out. “Although when you think of a was part of her
Born and raised in Morgan Hill, Janu (Janaki Naidu Vineyards released its wines in 2020 winemaker, an immigrant woman may not be
life. Her wine
Arasu) graduated from the University of San with its inaugural 2018 vintage of estate Pinot what one expects, but I’m trying to change that
Francisco in International Business. But her Noir, and a Viognier and a Zinfandel/Carignane whenever I can.” introduction,
career path took her from acting and fashion blend (the last two from sourced fruit). Wines Naidu Vineyard’s annual case production is 250 however, came
to television. Janu knew winemaking was her are crafted by winemaker Matt Duffy and cases. Its portfolio is focused on Pinot Noir, with other from her
calling when she met her future husband Jason produced in the nearby town of Santa Rosa. varietals and blends changing with each vintage.
Goelz, founder/winemaker of Jason-Stephens Raghni née, Khanna grew up in Amritsar
travels
winery in Gilroy, in 2012 at a party. Janu caught where fine dining was part of her life. Her While listening to their stories, passion and
the wine bug and soon immersed herself in wine introduction, however, came via her commitment, it is evident that these women
what she jokingly calls “the University of Jason”. travels. While studying sales and marketing have tapped into their inner shakti, marrying
Janu launched her Alara Cellars in Gilroy, in Melbourne, Australia, she met her future the best of American entrepreneurship with
a two-hour drive south of San Francisco. The husband Kaushik Naidu and the two moved their Indian heritage and blazing a trail in
inaugural 2016 vintage was released with 12 to San Francisco. California’s wine industry. v
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