Shoes That Move You: The Cultural Innovations of Camper and Nike - By Jannek K. Sommer January 2012 Exam Paper in Marketing Across Cultures M.Sc ...
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Shoes That Move You:
The Cultural Innovations
of Camper and Nike
By Jannek K. Sommer
January 2012
Exam Paper in Marketing Across Cultures
M.Sc. studies in Economics and Business Administration
University of Southern DenmarkContent Introduction .............................................................................................................................. 1 Methodology and Approach .................................................................................................... 1 Cultural Perspective ................................................................................................................. 1 Cultural Categories: Brand Meanings ...................................................................................... 3 Cultural Principles: Myths ....................................................................................................... 4 Drivers of Cultural Innovation ................................................................................................. 4 Eastern Asia: A Polemic Campaign ......................................................................................... 5 The East Asian Cultural Turmoil ............................................................................................. 7 The Upper Hand ....................................................................................................................... 8 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................... 9 References .............................................................................................................................. 10 List of Tables Table 1 Cultural themes and elements .................................................................................... 2 Table 2 Cultural categories ..................................................................................................... 3 Table 3 Eastern Asian Market, Hofstedte values of cultural dimensions ............................... 7
SHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 1
Introduction
Global brands face overwhelming challenges in their pursuit to enchant the
(post)modern consumer. Nike have had enormous success in connecting its brand with con-
temporary cultural tensions, thus greatly enhancing brand salience among consumers. Equal-
ly, Campers use of the Mediterranean myth and sustainability challenges consumerism and
global cultural convergence. In essence, they have achieved in emotionally moving consum-
ers profoundly. But by tapping into cultural sources they also contribute to a growing reality
embedded in symbolic meaning (Baudrillard, 1981). This new media landscape, bathed in
references to cultural identities, raises several fundamental questions of the soundness and
logic of our current marketing discourse; is cultural innovation enhancing or diffusing brand
meaning on the long run? A campaign to conquer new ventures such as an emerging East
Asian market might reveal itself as a completely different challenge. And if cultural innova-
tion is the solution in building global iconic brands, will the journey for meaning be an end-
less cultural Odyssey? To conquer the many challenges in such an adventure, Camper and
Nike might be forced to change their own game.
Methodology and Approach
I will start by performing a comparative cultural analysis of Camper and Nike cen-
tered around a contemporary timeframe. Rather than reformulating what has already been
depicted in other papers, the analysis will try to capture the present and not the past. While I
do draw upon historical references, the aim is not to provide a chronological account for the
chain of events in either brands history. I have based my cultural analysis on McCracken's
(1986) culture model, but I will spare and jump into other domains, such as convergence and
meta culture and universalist cultural frameworks.
Cultural Perspective
Culture is an inherently complex phenomenon; the perspective or lens through which culture
is viewed is heavily influenced and determined by discursive and epistemological differences.
Essentialistic and interpretative methods of analyzing and defining culture (Tolstikova, 2005)
– roughly a matter of either particularity or universality – is a typical dichotomic arrangement
in cross cultural research and marketing. Of course it is the cultural context that directly de-
mands a distinction between particular elements of culture and their differences. Particularity
opens distinctive details about specific cultural elements or processes, and differences calls
for comparative themes of culture; dimensions of values and beliefs is a typical universalist
JANNEK K. SOMMER (2012). MARKETING ACROSS CULTURES, WINTER EXAMSHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 2
approach that primarily Geert Hofstede champions. McCracken (1986) defines culture as an
ongoing process where meaning and cultural identity is constantly negotiated – reality is
shaped through a system of cultural categories that operate as structuring distinctives, and of
principles that function as the organizing ideas that make categories possible and meaningful.
This is what Tolstikova (2012) terms an interpretivist interpretation of culture, representing a
dynamic and complex culture definition. The universalist or essentialist views culture as fun-
damentally stable; hinged in human history, it presupposes that there are elements, pieces of
culture, that we can observe and analyze separately. The particularistic approach views cul-
ture as a constantly changing phenomenon, and some argue that cultural convergence moti-
vates a homogenization of culture, while others instead claim the rise of new cultures – global
scapes or new cultural layers – birthed by the tensions in modernity, technology, freedom,
and growing individual choice (Steenkamp, 2001; Trentman, 2006).
A comparative analysis of Camper and Nike demands a framework of similar cultural
themes that also allow single elements to be analyzed in their specific contexts. Based upon
McCracken's (1986) model I have devised four different themes, and pinpointed specific el-
ements of interest.
Table 1 Cultural themes and elements
Themes Elements
Cultural principles Cultural myths
Cultural categories Brand meanings
Place of origin
Cultural tensions: shifts and change in Issues of globalization and politics
social structure and cultural elements
Cultural process: the transfer of meaning Cultural innovations
Source: Own creation
In McCracken's model, cultural categories constitute a structural differentiation locat-
ed in situ in each society; they are the markers of meaning from which society gain and add
particular meaning. Meaning from this perspective is negotiated through performative acts,
that are not only subject to change, but also determined by both the individual and collective
enacting of the categories, thus creating a cultural landscape that people can navigate in. Cul-
JANNEK K. SOMMER (2012). MARKETING ACROSS CULTURES, WINTER EXAMSHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 3
tural categories include inter alia time, space, nature, person, class, status, gender, age, and
occupation.
Cultural Categories: Brand Meanings
The commodity of the Camper and Nike brands are shoes, but a long variety of differ-
ent categories rein from the overall object of it simply being a means of transportation, a se-
curity for providing safe and secure movement across space. But shoes are not only practical
items, they cross into other categories such as ritual objects e.g. used in weddings or sports
tournaments; to enact gender differentiations in male and female, or hetero and gay; occupa-
tions categories such as a runner, university professor, or student – or status connected to
occupations such as celebrity or businessman. The following table tries to capture the differ-
ent cultural categories connected to the brands.
Table 2 Cultural categories
Commodity Category
Camper Leisure
Rural
Natural
Slowness
Nike Health
Winner
Physical prowess
Speed
Opportunity
Source: Own creation
Places of origin also constitute cultural categories; they mark where the commodity is situat-
ed in the space and time continuum, thus connecting it to nature. This meaning making pro-
cess creates an important legitimizing effect in both the brand ontological stature and claim of
historical reference. Heritage – as a place of origin – also connotes the traditional, especially
in cases where ethnicity is an intrinsic part, and for the Camper brand this has been instru-
mental in its positioning. Camper presented the "real" Majorca in images with a completely
new theme; now the traditional country element of rural Spain offered an escape from the
fragmented postmodern and consumerist hungry business day. From being an infamous tour-
ist destination, Majorca was reborn in Campers representation as being an authentically real-
istic and a very humanized space; Camper's use of origin is a strategic metamorphosis into a
coryphaei of cultural innovation.
JANNEK K. SOMMER (2012). MARKETING ACROSS CULTURES, WINTER EXAMSHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 4
There are certainly similarities to Nike's use of origin, and while the company herit-
age does not have an equally long history as Camper's has, the basic entrepreneurial element
resides in both brands. Nike's origin is foremost ethnic in nature in that it embodies the aspi-
rational side of American culture: the American dream. Nike's heritage is centered around a
story of entrepreneurship and innovation, about two men who tried and succeeded. A myth of
opportunity and "every man can make it".
Cultural Principles: Myths
Between Campers Mediterranean place of origin and cultural categories of slowness
and ruralness, and Nikes American place of origin and categories of speed and physical
prowess, it is the cultural principles behind them that govern how the categories are interpret-
ed and negotiated; meaning resides in the ideas or values and determine "how cultural phe-
nomena are organized, evaluated, and construed" (McCracken, 1986, p. 73). Principles guide,
so to speak, the consumer to infuse the categories with meaning within a specific idea-frame
e.g. cultural myths. Cultural myths constitute principle ideas and values such as authenticity,
strength, traditional or empowerment. The myth of David and Goliath, the struggle of the
small and seemingly weak against the powerful and ruthless giant, comes to life in Campers
global move, where traditional principles connected to shoes and transport are challenged e.g.
"walk don't run" (Dalli & Romani, 2012). Also worth mentioning are the myths connected to
the Mediterranean area: the myth of slowness and relaxation. A clear connotation of human
leisure and good life. Nike resides on a very different myth, the myth of the American dream
(Holt, 2010). The American dream resides in principles of opportunity, innovation and
strength, and maybe even in cultural diversity connected to the American ethnos. But the in-
teresting element in both myths is the hero character; in both cases the hero element stands
out as a strong representation of uniqueness, a basic aspirational idea that people have sought
for for centuries.
Drivers of Cultural Innovation
Camper's and Nike's use of myth markets in their marketing schemes allow for a
plethora of opportunities in cultural innovation; innovation in this sense lies in the transfer of
meaning from powerful cultural identity myths to a commodity; a transfer dependant of the
repurpose of significant cultural expressions immanent in subcultures, social movements or
myths i.e. anchored in existing cultural sources.
JANNEK K. SOMMER (2012). MARKETING ACROSS CULTURES, WINTER EXAMSHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 5
When Nike connected its brand to the American ghetto and the American dream, it
succeeded in repurposing an existing ideology within a cultural tension. What Nike essential-
ly managed, was to invite consumers in joining the struggle against social inequality, to
march with equals in an emerging force of change, both local and global. The Myth allowed
people to rejoice in the American dream of innovation and opportunity, and at the same to
contribute to a better world without racism, social stratification or poverty. All just by wear-
ing a pair of shoes. The category of transport is, in this innovative process, infused with new
brand meanings that allow other principles to structure the process anew; the air in Nike's
shoes connotes aspiration, and perhaps now also as a metaphor for wings, imbuing the con-
sumer with superhuman feats equal to the Greek god Hermes legendary shoes. Without the
myth of the American dream or the aspirational mythical hero, the relation to the tension
would most likely have been experienced as just another corporate marketing trick, perceived
as being a false and unauthentic effort. Cultural sources stand out as the legitimizing entities
in Nikes brand claim.
When Camper connected the Mediterranean slowness and relaxation categories with
the tensions in contemporary issues of globalization and consumerism discourse with the Da-
vid and Goliath myth, they invited, as did Nike, consumers to join in an imaginary battle
against the greedy corporate corporations. In a sense, Camper provides a sword to wage war
equal to Don Quixote's windmills attack on the imaginary giants – the brand becomes the
sword and legitimizes consumers to consume while experiencing that they make the world a
better place.
Eastern Asia: A Polemic Campaign
Geographically Eastern Asia is a well defined space that includes China, Japan, North
and South Korea, Taiwan, Mongolia, and finally Hong Kong and Macau. Subsequently it
becomes harder to define the eastern Asian in cultural terms, as the difference between the
nations vary to a large degree: differences in linguistics, art, history, philosophy, political
institutions, inter alia. China, Japan, and Korea, is a common denomination of the region in
business literature, but could as easily include other nations like Taiwan and Vietnam. One
could also attempt to define an eastern Asian market by the accessibility and size of the
commodity markets, while other common denominators could be religion or market driven
i.e. emerging economies such as China. But to imagine a cultural transnational Asian com-
munity is, at best, implausible. The region exhibits "incredible heterogeneity" and "lingering
tensions" (Cayla & Echardt, 2008, p. 217) between its ethnic communities. In other words,
JANNEK K. SOMMER (2012). MARKETING ACROSS CULTURES, WINTER EXAMSHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 6
the eastern Asian culture, in actu, does not exist. A marketing campaign built upon a patron-
izing caricaturist western depiction of an Asian society – also termed orientalism or ethno-
centrism – will certainty draw false conclusions and subsume naive and dangerous assump-
tions that most likely will be interpreted polemically. Although we have long since bid out
farewell to western imperialism, it would be prudent to expect that the idea of an eastern pan-
Asian homogeneity exists today.
And yet common denotative differences among eastern Asian countries could be as-
sessed by utilizing universalist frameworks as proposed by e.g. Hofstede, Schwartz,
Trompenaars and Hall; and while such approaches does provide intriguing information re-
garding cross cultural differences – although not necessarily covering the same range of na-
tionalities – they fail to explore the in-depth local cultural categories and principles; hence
unique myths and cultural tensions remain uncovered, mysterious and elusive. Conclusions
drawn from universalist frameworks therefore have a more general application (d'Iribarne,
1996).
Another important point is that the concept of an eastern Asia changes according to
the eye of the beholder. Western marketing discourse – mostly synonymous with American
marketing discourse – will have its own unique impression. If an intra-regional Asian market-
ing discourse exist, it will most likely be much less homogenous than its westerns counter-
part. Even so, it might not be an "issue of heterogeneity or homogeneity as the effects of
globalization – but the language of markets, global trade, and the transformations within so-
ciety brought about by desire for commodities" (Keane, 2005). The best marketing campaign
– and also most likely to succeed – will be the one that embraces and understands cultural
diversity. Therefore, any kind of marketing advice should be grounded in a deeper under-
standing of both eastern Asian homogenous themes, and of heterogeneous local cultural prin-
ciples and categories.
The comparative cultural analysis of Camper and Nike revealed several important
elements, all of them embedded in rich cultural roots. Culture is an ongoing process, chang-
ing and forever moving; and although it has been proposed that globalization does not ho-
mogenize and eradicate local culture, it rather adds a new meta culture (Steenkamp, 2001),
cultural myths are not automatically shared globally. The cultural sources that embody
Camper and Nike and constitute the essence behind the success of their cultural innovation,
will most likely not be interpreted in the exact same manner in another geographic area, such
as in eastern Asia countries. For both brands an innovative marketing campaign in eastern
JANNEK K. SOMMER (2012). MARKETING ACROSS CULTURES, WINTER EXAMSHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 7
Asia will start by culturally mapping the ethnic cultures separately. If similarities surface then
they should of course be used, but never reverse engineered.
The East Asian Cultural Turmoil
Marketing strategies that cover the Eastern Asian marketplace could start by getting
an overview of the region using an universalist based cross cultural framework such as the
one proposed by Hofstede. It is worth noting, that while Hofstede's work is acclaimed, it op-
erates within a rigid system, and was not designed to cover all aspects of culture; in fact
Hofstedes framework of cultural dimensions is based upon how workplace values are influ-
enced by culture. Much criticism exists on the theoretical and methodological soundness of
the Hofstedian framework, but will not be scrutinized here. Initially it can be established that
Korea has not been researched and is therefore not present in the framework, I will accord-
ingly choose China, Japan and Taiwan for a closer investigation. The following table shows
the highest and lowest scores as a quick example.
Table 3 Eastern Asian Market, Hofstede values of cultural dimensions
China Japan Taiwan
Long term orientation High score High score
Individualism Low score Low score Low score
Masculinity / Femininity High score
Source: www.geert-hofstedte.com
Although it might look as there are similarities, when all dimensions are compared to each
other, little similarity remains. What Hofstede's framework mostly points towards, is that the
Eastern Asian cultures generally have long term time orientations and collectivist societies.
To be fair, this only constitutes as a simple analysis, but I would argue, that the existence of
Confucianism, strong hierarchical connections in society, social reciprocity, long term view
on time, business practices etc. could have been pointed out without a universalist framework
like Hofstedes. The critical issue is thus, that the approach utterly fails to yield any kind of
information concerning specific cultural categories and principles; without them, cultural
innovation will be no more than a Fata Morgana.
Other frameworks give insight into other areas, of which I will mention Halls distinc-
tions of high and low context cultures. Hall's distinctions formulate differences in how com-
munication is practiced across cultures; Eastern Asian countries are categorized as high-
context cultures. High context cultures are laden with unwritten, covert and implicit messages
JANNEK K. SOMMER (2012). MARKETING ACROSS CULTURES, WINTER EXAMSHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 8
– i.e. reading between the lines and understanding non-verbal communication are very im-
portant skills. Both Nike and Camper should therefore – according to Halls framework – pay
special attention to how they formulate their advertising messages; very literal and direct
messages might come across as vulgar or impolite. This implies, that how messages are
communicated might be more important than the message itself. But times are changing.
Globalization – both through converging and diverging cultural processes – bring about new
situations. To "establish a brand world that is calibrated to the cultural context" (Oswald,
2012, p. 141), Oswald argues for increasing brand literacy; and "to grow long-term value and
consumer loyalty over the long haul", Nike and Camper must focus "on building brand litera-
cy in these markets by innovative research and communication strategies." (Oswald, 2012, p.
141).
Japan experiences a growing popular youth culture that is heavily influenced by west-
ern media – American in particular – and in Taiwan modernity has become the equivalent of
the American way, and hence also the American dream (Iwabuchi, 2005). These flows
change the cultural proximity of the whole region, making it even harder to use universalist
based distinctions. Globalized communications create interest in and increase the tolerance
for experiencing cultural differences (Firat, 1997), and as Applebaum and Jordt (1996, p.
216) notes: ""national character'' approaches furnish little more than stereotypes predictable
by a tourist using common sense". The most valuable insight and advice for both Camper and
Nike is the importance of concentrating on emerging pan-regional cultural characteristics –
meta culture – and the fine attunement to the many details in micro culture (Steenkamp,
2001).
The Upper Hand
Without going into semantics, being a successful brand is not isolated to economic
variables such as revenue or profit. Insofar as the driver of success is measured in cultural
innovation, that is how well the brand meaning is connected to local cultural sources, the
most likely brand to win the upper hand in Japan and Taiwan seems to be Nike, and for China
it is Camper.
The Nike brand has several benefits in Japan and Taiwan. The convergence of meta
culture, specifically modernity and global media awareness, seems to connect especially well
with Japan and Taiwan, forging a direct connection with contemporary American popular
culture and the American dream. While such influence might be interpreted as Americaniza-
JANNEK K. SOMMER (2012). MARKETING ACROSS CULTURES, WINTER EXAMSHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 9
tion in some cultures – often denoting a negative force – in Japan and Taiwan the connection
invites Asian consumers to join the modern and popular west without going there.
But as long as Nike is a leading cultural icon in Japan and Taiwan, Camper will also
have the opportunity to leverage itself through being an opposite attraction. Rather ironic, the
oppositional element lies not in an actual opposition, but in the competing global meta culture
of sustainability. However the biggest opportunity for cultural innovation lies in China; an
immensely important emerging economy for both brands. The Chinese is not a developed
market, and perhaps Camper will connect its brand better, not because of political tensions
between China and USA, but because the ruralness and authentic essence of Camper, possi-
bly better connects to the simple life that Chinese people have celebrated for so long.
In the end, it might just be a matter of availability; the massive low income population
alone might stand out as the major inhibitor.
Conclusion
The cultural analysis revealed that both Camper and Nike have succeeded in taping
into powerful cultural myths and connecting them to cultural tensions. This transfer of mean-
ing – across cultural principles and categories – constitutes the process by which the brands
iconic nature are situated in. However culturally innovative, both brands have strengths and
weaknesses in the Eastern Asian Market. Nike has a favourable opportunity in Japan and
Taiwan, and Camper possibly in China.
The question remains whether cultural innovation in a completely new market will
come from taping into to similar cultural sources, or experimenting and maybe, just maybe,
trip into a cultural tension. At this point, Nike will probably risk less. And for the innovative
brand of tomorrow, experimentation might be the new game.
JANNEK K. SOMMER (2012). MARKETING ACROSS CULTURES, WINTER EXAMSHOES THAT MOVE YOU: THE CULTURAL INNOVATIONS OF CAMPER AND NIKE 10
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