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ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
TOURING
  Julie and Jim
follow the Trans-
                                             SLOW TOURISM
    Ardennes

  ENCOUNTER
Philippe Boudard,
                                         ROAMING
    raconteur
   of legends                           THE GREEN
   AV E N T U R E
 The Ardennes
  of Rimbaud
                                             WAYS
  and Verlaine

  E S C A PA D E S
   A choice of
 family outings

                     The Magazine that makes you
                         love the Ardennes !
ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
NAT U R E                                               WELL BEING                                            E N CH A N T M E N T

                  P. 08                                                       P. 1 0                                                  P. 1 6

              E X P LO R AT I O N S                                       E X P E R I E N CE S                                      H E R I TAG E

                   P. 2 3                                                     P. 30                                                   P. 33

                  V I TA L I T Y                                          GASTRONOMY                                                I T I N E R A RY

                   P. 4 5                                                     P. 5 0                                                  P. 53

                                                                         SOMMAIRE

P. 3 • EDITORIAL             . ǖoNEWS       CHAPTER 1         . ǖoWILD LIFE              SPECIAL FOLDER: SLOW TOURISME                        . ǖ
11 • TREKKING          . ǖoGREENWAYS              P. 14 • WATERWAYS                 . oECOTOURISM      . ǖoLEGENDS               . ǖo
THRILLS AND SPILLS                    CHAPTER 2          . ǖǖo Ý   Ý Ǘí ì                              . oRIMBAUD VS
VERLAINE        . ǖoCABARET VERT                  . ǖoSEDAN’S GREAT CASTLE                  . ǖǖoGREAT HERITAGE                      P.
oTRADITION              . ǖǖoREMEMBRANCE TOURISM                                  CHAPTER 3   . ǖǖǖo ALL THE FAMILY                      P.
ǖoGASTRONOMY                    . oMOTOR HOME         . ǖoACCOMMODATION                 . oTHE ARDENNES FOR BIKERS
 . ǖoUSEFUL ADDRESSES & MAP

                                       MAGAZINE DESIGNED AND PRODUCED BY ARDENNES TOURISM DEVELOPMENT AGENCY • MANAGING EDITOR : DAVID LAMARE • PUBLISHING
                                       MANAGER : í  Ý • EDITOR : í ÝÝ  F ÝÝ • EDITORIAL COMMITTEE : NATHALIE DIOT, CARL HOCQUART • ORIGIǖ
                                       NAL GRAPHIC DESIGN : CARLO OLIVEIRA • PHOTOGRAPHY : Ýí  ÝÝ, C. BIELSA, í Ý F Ý, CCARM,
 í Ý,  ǗÝ Ý, LUC DELHAYE, BENOIT DUMORTIER, BRUNO GOUHOURY, CARL HOCQUART, LAETIS, í  , ÝǗÝ  , THIERRY
MICHEL, R. MOSS, MUSE'ARTS, GERRY PATTERSON,       î íÝÝ , OFFICE DE TOURISME DE ROCROY, íǝÝ   Ý, TALACOM,
BRIGITTE HIRARDOT ET DENIS MIGNON POUR TENDRESSE SAUVAGE, DAVID TRUILLARD,     Ý Ǘí ì ˜ TRANSLATION : Ý í  Ý
ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
EDITOR IA L

                  IN ALL SIMPLICITY

   JOIN
 TOURISM
                  THE PLEASURE
   IN
ARDENNES          OF BEING ONESELF
                  Watching time pass, feeling life go by: not one’s life, but LIFE, in general.
                  Children growing up, grass growing. Don’t you think it’s essential?
                  Well, believe it or not, but that’s what the Ardennes is all about. Vital!
                  Only the essential. Nothing superfluous.
    #ARDENNES     If you think we are not being very objective, come and see for yourself!
GB.ARDENNES.COM   Leave the madding crowd behind for a weekend or two.
                          Follow in the steps of the poets. Draw a deep breath from their
                           inspiration. Get your body and mind working again. Find out,
                            at your own speed, how authentic this region is.
                                Remember that nothing is as calming, beneficial
                                    and energising as the simple fact
                                      of being oneself and doing things
                                       within our capacities. So come here
                                                                           “        Draw deep
                                                                                on the inspiration
                                                                                                     ”
                                       and discover what is really good            of the poets.
                                      for you, use your stay in the Ardennes
                                     to take a break, get up late, go to museums,
                                     have an evening with friends, and remember
                                         that here, time is set by a great puppeteer,
                                              which says it all!

                                                                             BE INSPIRED!

                           The Magazine that makes you
                               love the Ardennes !
                                                                                                     03
ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
N EWS

                                                    THE ARDENNES

                                  AT A GLANCE
     MOTORWAY                                                                                            H
                                                                                                         He arrived on the Saulces-Monclin motor-
                                                        WOINIC AND I
                                                        W
     ACROSS                                                                                               wway service area on 08/08/2008 after a

     THE ARDENNES THE
                                                                                                        44-day journey from his birthplace in a shed in
                                                                                                         B
                                                                                                         Bogny-sur-Meuse. Eleven years and 12,000

     2018 will see the opening of a new motorway
     linking Charleville-Mézières with Rocroi in
                                                        ESSENTIAL                                        hhours of work were required to produce this
                                                                                                         colossus. Take advantage of your stay to go

     20 minutes. On the other side of the frontier,
     in Belgium, a projected motorway will reduce
                                                        SELFIE                                           and see him and take a selfie with him. To
                                                                                                         see some real-life wild boar, the region’s
                                                        Éric Sléziak’s creation, Woinic, the 10 metre    emblem, pop in to the Saint Laurent wildlife
     the journey time to Charleroi to 60 minutes        high 50 tonne boar, will celebrate the 10th       park near Charleville-Mézières.
     by 2019.                                           anniversary of its great transhumance.           (free admission)

            THE NUMBER

      99
     THE RACE
     99, the number of times the Sedan-Charle-
     ville road race has been held. First organised     REMEMBRANCE
     in 1906, it is the oldest “town to town” road
     race in France, and a key date for people          ǚ                                     The Guerre et Paix en Ardennes (War and
                                                                                                        peace in the Ardennes) Museum will open in
     in the region, when in October the streets
     are full of runners in training. On average
                                                        WITH HISTORY                                    Novion-Porcien on 23 January 2018, With
                                                                                                        a collection of 16,000 objects, its displays
     3,000 runners take part, including some who                                                        will include film projections, animated maps
     have come a long way to participate: France,                                                       and settings relating the daily life of both
     Belgium, Kenya, Ethiopia and more. This year,                                                      soldiers and civilians. It sets out to be both
     for the first time, times will be recorded at                                                      original and educational.
     the half marathon (21 km), which will enable
     them to validate their performance at national                                                     Details:
     level. The finish line will still be at 23.6 km.                                                   + 33 [0]3 24 72 69 50
                                                                                                        www.guerreetpaix.fr

04
ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
N EWS

                                                 MON T CORNE T

                                                 THE ARDENNE
                                                 GOES BACK IN TIME
                                                 A key event this year is the March opening of the historic site of Mont Cornu, the Ardennes
                                                 goes back in time. Organised around 5 periods, from the 4th century BCE to the 15th century,
                                                 this historic site below the chateau of Montcornet, gives visitors the opportunity to watch
                                                 Gallic, Gallo-Roman, Merovingian, Carolingian and medieval villages being built and lived
                                                 in, using the techniques of the period, with numerous activities, conferences and festivities
                                                 throughout the year. Archeologists, historians, keen amateurs, local authorities and the
                                                 Teaching League have been working for several years on this incredible site, a guardian of
                                                 the History of the ages. Open every day from March to November.
                                                 Details from: +33 [0]3 24 33 81 10.

MONUMENT
SEDAN’S
º
GATE
The German monument in Sedan is unique                                        THE DATE
                                                               7< ǖ 85 G
of its kind. This 10m x 5m replica of the
Brandenburg Gate, a vestige of the German
occupation in 1914-1918, was built in 1915
in the Saint Charles cemetery, in homage
to its dead by the occupying powers who
                                                             ǚ † ǚ9
ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
RULE N°1

 RESISTANCE IS
USELESS: NATURE
 ALWAYS WINS
  IN THE END.
ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
HINTS FOR
OBSERVATION
Always respect the natural
environment. Here are some
tips from a “nature lover”:
 1 Don’t pick anything
2 Remain discrete
3 Don’t touch or
     disturb anything
4 Keep dogs on a lead
5 Stay on the paths
6 Comply with the
     reserve regulations
7 Take your rubbish home
8 Before entering reserve
     during the hunting season,
     check: www.fdc08.com
If you wish to learn,
it’s best to be accompanied.
Le ReNArd publishes
a programme of free Natures
outings open to the public,
run by specialised local
associations.

www.renard-asso.org
> “apprendre”

                                   “ The Ardennes Forest
                                  is a refuge for the larger
                                         mammals. ”
ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
WIL DL IF E

                                                          INTERVIEW

           “A WORLD
                                   IN THE RAW”
What gives the Ardennes                                                            What advice would you give
its natural wealth?                                 Pierre Déom                    to nature lovers?
The region’s wealth is in the variety of its land-  is the Editor of La Hulotte,   As Flaubert said, “for something to become
                                                   “most read journal in
scapes: from the spruce forests in the north        the warrens”.
                                                                                   interesting, all it requires is to observe it for a
to the plateaux of the Champagne District, the                                     long time”. As far as I am concerned, I’m the
panoramas are immensely varied. The same is                                        most home-loving native of the Ardennes. In
true of the fauna: Canada geese, birds from the Steppes, Boult-aux-Bois, I have all I need: wetlands, vast state forests,
have been observed in the agricultural lowlands, while the pastures, crop lands and hedges: a mosaic of diversified
rare and discrete hazel grouse has taken up residence in milieux with flora and fauna that asks only to be observed.
the woodlands to the north.                                         It’s a world in the raw.

Which animals                                                                                                  DID YOU KNOW?
can we hope to see?                                                                                            THREE
In the north, the great horned owl                                                                             WILDLIFE
nests in the cliffs while the per-
egrine falcon resides in the Meuse                                                                             RESERVES
                                                                                                               There are three national
Valley, skylarks and lapwings can                                                                              wildlife reserves in the Ardennes:
be seen in the fields, with foxes and                                                                          The Point de Givet dry grasslands
deer in the woods. The dense Ar-                                                                               with their unique geology,
dennes forest is less rich in fauna                                                                            the Vireux-Molhain Reserve,
than the woods, hedges or fields,                                                                              one of the most ancient fossil beds
but it suits the larger game animals                                                                           in France, and the Bois-en-Val
(stag, wild boar, etc.), and traces of                                                                         in Charleville-Mézières.
beavers can be found along the

                                             “                                                     ”
                                                                                                               More details at
banks of the Meuse.                                                                                            gb.ardennes.com
                                                     For something to become
                                                     interesting, all it requires                              > “wildlife reserve”
                                                  is to observe it for a long time.

                                                                 GUSTAVE FLAUBERT

  IT’S NOT A REGIONAL
     ¹                                              
  With its great variety of environments, from dry        red owls, black storks, boreal owls, hazel grouse,   Parc Naturel Régional des Ardennes
  grassland to forests and hedgerows, the Ardennes        wild cats, European beavers, or horse-shoe bats.     +33 (0)3 24 42 90 57
  Regional Wildlife Park (PNR), founded in 2011,          These excursions can be led by locals wishing to     wwww.parc-naturel-ardennes.fr.
  116,000 ha of exceptional diveristdiversity. Wildlife   share their knowledge. Their Association, “Les       Association Les Amis du Parc
  excursions enable visitors to encounter long-ea-        Amis du Parc” posts a programme on their web site.   www.amisparcardennes.org.

                                                                                                                                                     09
ROAMING THE GREEN WAYS - The Magazine that makes you love the Ardennes ! - charleville-sedan ...
FOLDER
     SLOW TOURISM

                                                                                                   “ We have
                                                                                                 to take things
                                                                                                    slowly. ”

            CHANGE YOUR PACE,                                              ADOPT
  THE SLOW      DID YOU KNOW?
                %.41Ɲ+.-&ǚ#(23 -"$
                HIKING TRAILS
                In addition to the ten short hiking
                trails marked by the Comité
                Départemental de Randonnée
                                                          ATTITUDE
                                                          DENSE FORE S TS , WINDING RIVE RS , E XCE PTIO NAL PANO RAMAS …
                                                          YOU ARE AT T H E G ATE S O F TH E ARDE NNE S . TIME TO FO RG E T
                Pédestre, there are four long-
                distance trails:                          THE AF FAI RS O F TH E WO RL D AND TAKE A DE E P BRE ATH O F FRE S H A IR .
                GR 654, the mythical trail to
                                                                The slow attitude is not a fad, but an   Put on some comfortable shoes, and fol-
                Compostelle, which links Namur with
                Vézelay via Rocroi, Signy-l’Abbaye        art of living, synonymous with letting go,     low the Meuse on foot or by bicycle, delve
                and Vieux-lès-Asfeld.                     well-being, sharing, caring for the environ-   deep into the forests on horseback, relax
                GR 12, which links Amsterdam with Paris   ment and quality of life.                      on a boat … or wander on a hoverboard,
                and shares the route of the GR 654        So you can be sure that you were not mis-      a quadricycle or a canoe – and why not
                from Gué-d’Hossus to Hauteville.          taken in choosing the Ardennes, where life     try your hand at cross-country skiing in
                GR 14, which links the Paris region       moves at the pace of an ever-present           winter? From the banks of the river to the
                With Belgium via Grandpré, Le Mont-
                                                          Nature. Citizens’ gardens, orchards in         top of the Ardennes forest, there are won-
                Dieu and Sedan.
                GR 16, from Liège, enters France
                                                          the Vouzinois region, hedgerows in the         derful panoramas to be seen. This striking
                at Sorendal, follows the magnificent      Thiérache, forests … these “green lungs”       beauty reveals itself best to those who
                Semoy Valley and joins the GR 654         are everywhere, with urban gems and nug-       learn to contemplate it. Enjoy life on the
                at Rimogne.                               gets of territory never far away.              slow side. Here, nothing is more natural.

10
WEL L B EIN G

                                           Michel Degré,
                                           a compulsive hiker,          A HIKER’S
                                                                        3 TOP
                                           is a member of
                                           Paysages de France.

                                                                        FAVOURITES
   1         BY THE WATERSIDE                          2             IN THE WOODS                         3          AROUND THE RAMPARTS

             ASFELD                                                  OLIZY                                           1."1.(
Asfeld and its surroundings offer an ideal         This family tour, starting from Olizy (near         This 16th century star-shaped city, given the
walk for children. This surprise-filled stroll     the Argonne Discovery Park) offers a 6.4 km         label “Small city of character”, is best enjoyed
along the Aisne canal is flexible (5 to 10 km)     loop “between two worlds” via Petite-Ville,         while strolling around its ramparts. Take your
and follows the river bends.                       Blanche-Falaise and Martignon before                children to discover the Rièzes Country,
On the way you will find the unique baroque        returning by Petite-Ville. In the distance,         the harsh plateau subjugated by Man.
17th century Saint-Didier church, a dam,           the course of the Aisne marks the passage           Let yourself be carried away by this landscape,
and a German cemetary: so many evocations          from the verdant, wooded Argonne district           imprinted by History. Note the glacis, a modi–
in such a short distance.                          to the hills of the Champagne region.               fication to the natural terrain which obliged
                                                                                                       the enemy to show himself.

                                                                                                              ǚ
        Ɠ ¹  ?                                                                                   PANORAMA
  Saddle up! Let yourself go! The Ardennes can also be explored                                               Mont Saint-Walfroy (near Margut),
  on horseback. “We are working to ensure that hiking trails can          Comité Départemental                is 350 metres high. The view from
  be shared by everyone”, explains the president of the Regional          du Tourisme Équestre                the summit is exceptional And takes in
  Equestrian Tourism Committee, CDTE, Francoise Simon, who has            Tél. +33 [0]6 80 34 84 87           the Meuse and the Ardennes.
  a list of equestrian accommodation (both certified and uncerti-         www.cdte08.ffe.com
  fied) and itineraries recorded by local riders. Full details on the
                                                                                                              Find all the Ardennes
  CDTE web site. Caution: be sure to check the practicability of
                                                                                                              viewing points on
  the trails with the trail manager (municipality or département)
  before setting out.                                                                                         gb.ardennes.com

      Regional hiking                 The Ardennes on foot                   On foot and bicycle                    Other ideas for accompanied
      committee (CDRP08)              This guide from the French             in the French Ardennes                 walks and hikes from
     cdrp08@orange.fr                 Hiking Federation describes            Brochure published (in French)         gb.ardennes.com
   ard
   ardennes.ffrandonnee.fr            47 walks together with horse           by the Ardennes Tourist                > « the Ardennes on foot »
                                      and bicycle circuits.                  Development Agency                     Or from Tourist Offices
                                                                             Can be downloaded from                 (details p. 58)
                                                                             gb.ardennes.com
                                                                                                                                                          11
FOLDER
     SLOW TOURISM                                                              R ES P IR AT ION

                                                         ºǚº

                                                 THE PATHS OF
                                         LIBERTY
                           MO RE TH AN 95 0 K M OF I N TERNATI O NAL TO URIS T CYCL E TRACKS FO L LO W TH E ME US E
                                  F ROM I TS SOURC E TO I TS ESTUARY. JUL IE AND JIM, A DUTCH CO UPL E ,
                               TRIED THEI R HAN D AT C YC L I NG ALO NG TH E ME US E , S TARTING FRO M S E DAN.

              “Excellent! Superb!” Julie and Jim don’t regret                                       ist sites and local services, especially repair
              their decision: pedalling the 280 km from             0($ / $', two Dutch           points. “It’s very reassuring”.
              Sedan to Maastricht. Six days, synonymous             citizens, tested the Green Way,
                                                                    280 km between Sedan and
               with discoveries, tranquillity and exchanges…        Maastricht.
                                                                                                    STOP, LOOK, EXPLORE
              “Three nights in France, three in Belgium, and                                        Julie and Jim took a Dutch tour bus from
               stages from 33 km to 71 km”, explains Julie                                          Maastricht to Sedan, taking advantage of a
              Bissonnette. She and her husband pedal every day in the baggage carrying service: “Every morning, after breakfast,
              Netherlands, and had already had previous experience of we left our cases at the hotel, got on our bikes and took
               cyclo-tourism, covering 150 km in three days, but they wanted the road. They were waiting for us in the evening at the
               an easy route through Dinant (Belgium), and opted for elec- next stage.” Sedan, Charleville-Mézières, Haybes, Dinant,
              trically assisted cycles offer-                                                                      Namur, Liège, Maastricht “We
               ing “more latitude” for this long                                                                   were able to Take our time, stop,
              trek. The trails, Trans-Ardennes                                                                     look around, explore, and try
               GreenWay in France and Ravel 1                                                                      the local beers. We also appre-
               and 2 in Belgium were “very easy                                                                     ciated the very natural section
               and well-marked” the couple in-                                                                     between Charleville and Haybes.
               sist, with a special mention for                                                                    On the route we saw locks and
              the road-book in France, “and                                                                         dams, and were able to under-
               its map for each stage”, which                                                                      stand the local history with our
               shows the viewing points, tour-                                                                      own eyes. We are very curious.”
                                                                                                                   One thing they particularly liked:
               DID YOU KNOW?                                                                                       the “impressive” architecture of
                A PRIZE                                                                                            Sedan and Charleville-Mézières,
                                                                                                                   with the castle and Ducal Square.
                ITINERARY                                                                                          Their advice: prepare a picnic to
               The Trans-Ardennes GreenWay
                                                                                                                   be able to eat outside the usual
               was named 2010 Itinerary of the Year
               at the leading bike and hiking exhibition                                                           French  meal times.
                in the Netherlands.

                    NOVEL, FESTIVE DISCOVERY                                                                                       Full details about the
                    Clink glasses over a craft beer, listen to a concert,   year from the end of August to the beginning of Sep-   GreenWay Festival from
                    go sculling … all that in the verdant and magnificent   tember, during the GreenWay Festival organised by      www.cd08.fr
                    setting of the Trans-Ardennes GreenWay. This unique     the Ardennes Regional Council in partnership with      Facebook
                    discovery of the banks of the Meuse is possible every   numerous local firms.                                  > Les Ardennes : le Département

12
6
                                                                           DAYS
                                                                     cycling from Sedan
                                                                       to Maastricht …
                                                                            easy!

                                                                                                                              A LABEL FOR
                                                                                 BIKE, HOVERBOARD,                            THE ARDENNES
                                                                                 04 #1("8"+$a                                 BY BIKE
                                                                                 Where can bikes be rented on                 A good breakfast to keep you
                                                                                 the GreenWay, or nearby?                     going, a meal basket, a secure
                                                                                 What other activities are available?         lock-up for your bike,
                                                                                 Hoverboard, quadricycle, horse riding…       and the certainty of finding
                                                                                 A selection of sports and open air leisure   a means to repair it in the event
                                                                                 activities in the Ardennes Is available      of problems … the “Accueil vélo”
                                                                                 via the Ardennes Nature et Aventures         label (displayed on hotels, B&Bs,
                                                                                 network, which lists about 50 service        camp sites etc.) tells you that
                                                                                 providers.                                   all these services are available.

                                                                                 List of providers and                        Accommodation
                                                                                 detailed itineraries on                      and suggestions for
                                                                                 gb.ardennes.com                              tours available on
                                                                                 > “nature & adventures”                      gb.ardennes.com
                                                                                 and “cycle tracks”                           > “Ardennes by bike”

        Trans-Ardennes                 The Meuse by bike                       Additional tour                          Prepare your route
        GreenWay road book             A tour of practically 1,000 km          Extending the length of the              Explore the French Ardennes
       AAvailable in Tourist Offices   follows the river from its source       Semoy river, the Transemoysienne         on foot or by bike with the
    alo
    along the route to its estuary     on the Langres plateau to               is an additional, wilder, circuit       “Trans-Ardennes GreenWay”
(Rotterdam). It crosses the Vosges,    its estuary in Rotterdam.               of about 20 kms. With its 9 km,          application. You’ll find some
Meuse, Ardennes, Belgium and           It crosses the Vosges, Meuse,           the Ennemane is ideal for introducing    practical hints on
Netherlands. More details from         Ardennes, Belgium and                   the family to bike tours : but watch     www.francevelotourisme.com
gb.ardennes.com                        Netherlands. Details from               out for the uphill finish!
> “brochures and guides”               www.meuseavelo.eu.

                                                                                                                                                                  13
FOLDER
     SLOW TOURISM

DID YOU KNOW?                                                                    PEA CE OF M IN D

THE ARDENNES
WATERWAYS                                      WE TESTED FOR YOU

                                               PILOTING A SMALL
La Meuse: 95 km / 21 locks
(Pont-à-Bar to Givet).
Ardennes Canal:
106 km / 46 locks

                                               BARGE
(as far as Berry-au-Bac,
in the Aisne region)
The “canal de l’Est”:
100 km / 22 locks
(as far as Verdun,
in the Meuse region)                            LOOK I NG FOR A REAL BRE AK? WITH O VE R 300 KM O F WATE RWAYS ,
A total of:
301 km / 89 locks /
                                                THE ARDENNES GI VE YO U TH E O PPO RTUNITY TO DIS PE NS E
17 riverside stations.                          W I TH YOUR SMARTP HO NE AND E NJOY AUTH E NTIC CRUIS ING .
                                         An on/off button. Five seconds of                  The most technical aspect is the lock, of which a pa-
               pre-heating. Just cast off the mooring lines and clear the                   tient guide teaches us the techniques. They are opened
               quayside. A gentle push on the accelerator, a turn of the wheel,             by remote control. Fortunately the fenders are there to
               10 seconds of pressure on a button, and your course is easily                protect the hull from any errors. With a lock every 3 km
               corrected. At Pont-à-Bar, on the Ardennes Canal, the Ponçay                  on average, you will have the time to perfect your skills.
               starts its journey through refreshing countryside where the
               emerald green of the trees mingles with the tender shade                     Ɣ º                    ǚ
               of fresh grass. A stone’s throw away, cows graze peacefully.                 Even the less skilled will let the peace and quiet take over, and
               Our boat glides on calm waters, almost in a straight line. In                quickly see themselves as barge skippers: en route for vast
               Rimbaud country, a tipsy craft could be taken for a tribute,                 horizons, legendary landscapes, historic sites and gourmet
               but only a few hundred metres are needed to get a feel for                   stops in a peaceful, protected and beneficial environment.
               the helm and the stream.                                                     Enjoy the “free liberty” so dear to Rimbaud!

                        Cruising options               From Givet:                          Enjoy the water                    All details on
                        From Pont-à-Bar:               cruise (outing or meal) on           differently: electric boat,        gb.ardennes.com
                       live-aboard permit-free boats   the Charlemagne or the Naïade        canoe, paddle, pedalo...           > “river tourism”
                    (introductory day or week).
                    (in                                (subject to availability).                                              and “by the waterside”
                                                       From Monthermé:
                                                       cruise with commentary on the Roc.
14
“ Excursions in
                                                                                                             a gentle, undulating
                                                                                                                   setting. ”

ENCOUNTER

IN THE PEACEFUL FOOTSTEPS
OF A DONKEY
        Bertin, Marcel, Fernand, Marius, Gas-                                     much 40 kg for a small donkey”. These excellent
ton … with their long donkey’s ears, they are        Based with his donkeys       walkers can cover as much as 15 to 20 km per
coddled by their owner, Emmanuel Crametz.            in Le Ménil at Vaux-Vilaine, day from their base at Vaux-Villaine to Lalob-
                                                     ''ƛ)0 ( -ƛ' /5 offers
Untreated pastures in summer, organic hay in         the opportunity of a unique
                                                                                  be and Signy-l’Abbaye, in a “gentle, undulating
the winter…. and kilometre after kilometre for       experience.                  setting”, or descending the Meuse Valley “to
exercise. Attracted by the peaceful beauty of                                     the lake at Vieille-Forges or even the Château
the site, and inspired by his long experience of                                  de Montcornet”. Great fun for youngsters, who
hiking, he left Valence, his home town in the south, to come don’t notice the kilometres passing. Peace and quiet guar-
to Ardennes to organise donkey treks. “From the age of 3 or anteed. “I see it on their faces when they come back. They
4, donkeys are perfect for carrying bagages and children, as even move differently. Everything changes at donkey’s pace.”

  AN ECOTOURISM CLUB TO GUIDE YOU
  Rooms painted with potatoes, natural pigments from           dennes. Water and energy savings, use of natural cleaning
  the Moulin d’Ecordal, façade finished by local crafts-       products, waste selection, etc. Just so many gestures         All environmentally
  men, masonry heater, single dish to avoid waste, local       in favour of the Environment. “The choice of ecotourist       friendly activities on
  products: just so many environmentally responsible           accommodation is the guarantee of a holiday that is in line   gb.ardennes.com
  initiatives which are not always easy to find, especially    with the ideals of responsible tourism”, says Stéphanie       > “responsible tourism”
  for tourists visiting the area for the first time, but now   Drothier, responsible for the Club at the Ardennes Tourist    All ecotourist
  the Ardennes Ecotourism Club, a cross-border network,        Development Agency. “These committeed professionals           providers on
  simplifies the task.                                         are informed and can give advice about buying locally,        gb.ardennes.com
  'L QMKCRFGPRWQGRCQKCCRGLEAJC?PAPGRCPG?DMPQSQ-   finding good ideas and leisure activities. Customers          > “our preferred labels”
  tainable tourism have been identified in the French Ar-      can relax. We look after it for them.”

                                                                                                                                                        15
P UR E DEL IG H T

     UNEXPECTED

     THE CHARIOT
     OF LEGENDS
     ELFY PARK                     DEEP I N THE ARDENNE S MAS S IF, PH IL IPPE BO UDARD’ S “ TCH ÅR
     IN                            SC AI L L E” SPAN S DI F F ERE NT WO RL DS . A 21S T CE NTURY L E G E ND.
     THE ELVES'                                            Between the magnetic             these ancient legends, it is inspired by
     VILLAGE                         #$($++ *0ƛ-       Roc-la-Tour and the leg-         a fundamental element of the Ardennes
     Near the Vieilles-Forges        maintains the flame   endary Croix-Scaille, the        tradition: enchantment.
                                     of the “fabulous”
     lake, the forest is home                              hamlet of Six-Chênons
                                     in the Ardennes.
     to a fun-loving people                                contains a fascinating           SUMMER SOLSTICE
     of elves.                                             work: the Tchår scaille.         “The enchanter modifies the world by his song,
     Elfy Park, their country,                             Conceived by Philippe            voice, speech, and rhythm … We find these ele-
     is made up of games:          Boudard, it evokes a chariot made of schist              ments in hunting, forging, and legends, always
     slides, tyrolean traverses,
                                   (scaille means slate in Wallon) drawn by two             related to an animist society” explains this teller
     netting: 5 hectares
                                   horses, in the centre of a circle of menhirs on          of legends, who sees the Tchår scaille as another
     of magic for young
     and old alike.                the edge of a clearing: an island in the immen-          stone added to this edifice.
                                   sity of the forest. The motto, “I ride between the       Massive. Rugged. Monolithic. Immobile. Under
     www.elfypark.fr               worlds”, an allusion to the Europe of Legends,           the sun of the summer solstice, this vessel of
                                   also recalls the Celtic tradition of chariot graves:     stone and its symbolic horses seem ready to
                                   warriors were buried in their chariot with their         take flight. The unending forest, the odour of the
                                   horses to travel to the next world. The Tchår            earth, the breeze. The poetic magic takes effect.
                                   Scaille is an invitation to a voyage through dif-        The evocative power of the place prevails: the
                                   ferent worlds. As a contemporary resurgence of           legend still lives.

        ¹Ɠ ¹
       A wonderful moment awaits you! The “walks with Arduin    the French Hiking Federation, Jean-Luc and Claudie
       the druid” offer the chance to discover the Ardennes     (sometimes accompanied by Arduin the Druid) guide
       through its tales and legends. For example: the Four     you during long walks of an hour and a half or two hours. *2)(*ƛ /#
       Sons of Aymon, The Pipe that smokes at Bogny-sur-        It gets steep sometimes! Good shoes essential, and programme from
       Meuse, Imbolc the Lyre at Monthermé…. Qualified by       animals must be on a lead.                                rando.jeanluclemaire.fr

16
DID YOU
                                                                                                                                 KNOW?
                                                                                                                                 THE ROUTE
                                                                                                                                 OF LEGENDSS
                                                                                                                                 In the Ardennes, it is said that
                                                                                                                                 there is a legend under every
                                                                                                                                 stone. Why not have a look under
                                                                                                                                 one or two? Meuse Valley,
                                                                                                                                 Semoy Valley, Val-de-Lesse…
                                                                                                                                 The Route of Legends offers
                                                                                                                                 you the opportunity to discover
                                                                                                                                 enchanting tales and magic sites
                                                                                                                                 in 12 stages through France
                                                                                                                                 and Belgium, Escapades of 20
                                                                                                                                 to 50 km, by car or on a bicycle.

                                                                                                                                 gb.ardennes.com
                                                                                                                                 > “tourist routes”

                                        1                                                    2                                                    3

MONTHERMÉ                                             LAIFOUR                                               Ɣǚǚ

1."ǚ+ ǚ3.41                                           THE LADIES OF MEUSE AYMON'S 4 SONS
Broken stone columns, overturned blocks of            On the left bank of the Meuse, three enormous        Here the enchanter Maugis built the Castle of
quartzite, the gaping ravine: from its altitude of    tree-covered rocks bar the skyline. The legend       Montessor with the 4 Sons of Aymon, the heroes
408 metres, the chaos of Roc-la-Tour offers a         tells that they are the daughters of the Count       of a famous chanson de geste. Renaud, Alard,
strange panorama from which emanates a savage         of Rethel, Berthe, Hodierne and Ige. Married         Guichard and Richard lived at Charlemagne’s
power. This devastation is the work of the Devil,     to Vauthier, Heribrand and Geoffroy, the sons of     court until Renaud killed the king’s nephew during
the vestiges of a castle promised to a lord, be-      the Count of Hierges, the three sisters remained     a chess game. They fled the Ardennes on his
fore the first cock crow, in exchange for his soul.   alone after the departure of their husbands on       magic horse Bayard, crossing valleys in a single
But the Devil and his noisy army of fiends woke       Crusade with Geoffroy de Bouillon. They were         leap. Numerous sites around Europe tell the tale:
the cock, who crowed before the last stone had        unfaithful to their husbands with passing knights,   Ardennes, Gascogny, German… If you’re at Bogny
been laid: and the Devil destroyed the fabulous       and God punished them by turning them to stone       for the summer solstice, listen carefully and you
castle in a rage.                                     when Jerusalem was taken.                            may hear the whinnying of Bayard.

                                                                                                                                                                17
1
                                                                  A DR EN A L IN E

                                                                                                                                                       3

                                TOP 5
DID YOU KNOW?

LEISURE
SPORT
The green immensity

                                THRILLS
of the Ardennes hides
many treasures.
At Villers-le-Tilleul,
the Poursaudes golf
course is another
original way to relax
and practice a sporting
activitry in the countryside.

gb.ardennes.com                 THERE’S N O NEED FOR MO UNTAINS TO E NJOY TH RIL L ING MO ME NTS :
> “golf ”                       THE ARDEN N ES MASS IF AND ITS ALTITUDE VARIATIO NS O F 38 0 ME TRE S
                                ARE AN I DEAL P L AYG RO UND FO R ADRE NAL INE LO VE RS .

                                          Have a good time at the PNR       Sedan and region                           Ride over Les Crêtes,
                                         The Parc Naturel Régional          mountain bike area                         mountain bike trails
                                         (Regional Wildlife Park) is home   Le Bannet : 16 trails with different       The Crêtes Préardennaises
                                     to tthe Meuse and Semoy Valleys        levels, a total of 116 km, are available   offer 239 km of mountain bike
                                 Mountain Bike area. It offers 21 marked    on the VTT-FFC Bannet site, Givonne,       trails from 12 km to 25 km.
                                 trails, 6 rest areas and 350 km            near Sedan.                                Download from
                                 of trails (from Givet to Nouzonville)      Downloadable map and trails on             www.rando-cretes.fr
                                 with 4 levels of difficulty.               www.charleville-sedan-tourisme.fr
                                 Downloadable map, details on
18                               www.parc-naturel-ardennes.fr
4                                             2

                                                                                                       3
                                                          % -3 23(" !+$
                                                           Michaël Gault, the manager of
                                                           the TerrAltitude adventure park at Fumay.
                                                          “It’s a nice overhead stroll of 1.2 km above the
                                                           forest and the Meuse, two key features of the
                                                           Ardennes countryside, at a height of 110 m. People
                                                           often like it so much that they find it too short
                                                           (the top speed is 100 km/hr). You can do it lying
                                                           down, or in the sitting position, which feels more

                                        1
                                                           reassuring, or two people (father and son, for
                                                           example) can do it together.”
5
                                                           www.terraltitude.com
    ENDURO
    MOUNTAIN BIKING
     Steve Pechet, vice-champion                          BUNGEE
                                                                                              4
     Grand Est Benelux 2015
    “The French Ardennes are ideal for mountain bike      JUMPING
     and nature addicts, with marvellous views, hilly, Éric Lavieille, président of
     varied terrain, and ease of access. It’s better than the Adrénaline Élastique association
     the mountains: you climb for shorter distances, it’s “Amazing. A hell of an experience. Have to do it
     less elitist, and you can do 4 or 5 special descents again.” There’s no lack of superlatives on landing.
     in a single morning. There’s a lot of choice, with “It’s a jump of 37 m from the magnificent Exer-
     about twenty trails between Bogny-sur-Meuse, mont Viaduct, in a very pretty natural setting.
     Monthermé, Hautes-Rivières and Nohan … usually We organise 30 per year, in a great atmosphere,
     starting from Roc-la-Tour at 8 or 9 am.”              on the last Saturdays each month from April to
                                                           September”. A “pure instant of adrenaline” that
     Facebook page                                         can also be experienced at the Fumay adventure
     Semoy VTT club de Monthermé,                          park from a 20 m high wooden tower.
     To cycle in safety,
     respecting                                            www.adrenaline-elastique.com/exermont
     the environment
                                       2                   Booking mandatory,
                                                           call +33 [0]6 73 58 66 45

    TRAIL
                                                          / 1 "'43(-&
                                                                                                        5
     Jérémie Degraeve, president of K-raid
     Ardennes, the organisers of the Aymon Trail             Olivier Tordo, instructor-pilot
     (Bogny-sur-Meuse), Meuse Trail (Revin)                  at Douzy flying club
     and the Rimbaud City Trail (Charleville-               “Unforgettable. Extraordinary. Fabulous. Going out
     Mézières).                                              of the door is difficult, the step is high: 3,500
    “The valley is perfect for seekers after thrills in the metres! But the instructors are very serious and
     great outdoors: there are some ups and downs, a reassuring. Free fall is fantastic, you drop like
     lot of woodland, and above all, a vast number of a missile at over 200 km/hr: a real feeling of
     paths and tracks. You have a combination of fun freedom. Then, after the tumult of free-fall, the
     and technique, with some quite difficult passages opening of the parachute and the utter silence of
     such as the Quatre fils Aymon at Bogny-sur-Meuse, the descent under parachute. It was marvellous.
     or The Wall, just behind Haulmé, a drop of 250 m I’m a pilot, but I suffer from vertigo. If I can do it,
     over 500 metres, between 35 and 40%.”                   anyone can. I would do it again with pleasure”.

    www.k-raid-ardennes.fr                                Paraclub de Belval
    Details of other Ardennes trails                      Registration: +33 [0]6 13 08 24 11
    at gb.ardennes.com                                    Details on gb.ardennes.com
    > “trails”                                            > “in the air”

                                                                                                                 19
RÈGLE N° 2

OPEN YOUR EYES,
   YOUR EARS
AND, ABOVE ALL,
  YOUR MIND
AD V E R TISE M E NT

                                                                                                ARABICA
                                                                                                White chocolate flavoured
                                RASBERRY
                           MACAROONS                                                            with coffee and tender
                       Fondant and freshness                                                    chicory biscuit.

                            THE CAROLO
                          The “speciality” of
                        Charleville-Mézières

                                                                                                THE ARDOISIER
                                                                                                Our own creation,
                                                                                                a tongue in cheek
                                                                                                reference to the Ardoise,
                                                                                                a local sweet.
                                                                                                                            PHOTO : DAVID TRUILLARD

                                                C O N F E C T I O N E R , B A K E R , C H O C O L AT E M A K E R
                                                7 RUE DU MOULIN • CHARLEVILLE-MÉZIÈRES • +33 [0]3 24 33 25 11
                                                WWW.BOULANGERIE-BIO-MONTOLYMPE.FR
EX P LOR AT ION S

ǚ   º ǚģ Ģ

A TOWN AT THE RIGHT
TEMPO
 IN JUST TW O DAYS, ANNE AN D AL E XANDRE DIS CO VE R TH E MANY
          FAC ETTES OF THE C AP I TAL O F TH E FRE NCH ARDE NNE S ,     DID YOU KNOW ?
               B I RTHP L AC E OF THE PO E T ARTH UR RIMBAUD AND
                                                                        GUIDED TOURS
    TH E PUP P ETS OF THE P L AC E D UCAL E , 17TH CE NTURY JE WE L ,   The Tourist Office offers a large
                     AND THE MEDI E VAL RAMPARTS O F MÉ ZIÈ RE S :      range of guided visits: Heart of
                       A WAL K P UNCTUATE D BY MANY S URPRIS E S .      Charleville, Medieval Mézières,
                                                                        Basilica of Mézières and its stained
                                                                        glass, In the footsteps of Rimbaud ..
                                                                        Ɲ".-"$132
                                                                        Organ concerts are also given,
                                                                        organized during summer
                Details from                   Ardennes Tourism         in the Basilica of Mézières.
                Tourist Office,                Development Agency
                Charleville/Sedan en Ardenne   +33 [0]3 24 56 06 08     Details:
            + 333 [0]3 24 55 69 90             gb.ardennes.com          gb.ardennes.com
          www.charleville-sedan-tourisme.fr
                                                                                                                23
Anne and Alexandre chose to
             spend a weekend break in Charleville-            ITINERARY
                                                              OF A COUPLE IN
             Mézières, awarded “City of Art and
             History” label. They looked forward
             to taking a beneficial and cultural

                                                              CHARLESTOWN
             breather in the country, less than
             two hours from Paris.

     SATURDAY                                                             667 85                                      SUNDAY
                                                                                                                      S UND
                                                              After passing the astonishing building of the l’École
                                                              Nationale Supérieure des Arts de la Marionnette
             >I85 ¹                                          (National School of Puppet Arts), Anne and Alexandre                 >I55 ¹
     From Paris, after 1 hour 37 minutes by TGV, Anne         stroll along the pedestrian streets 4 once walked       It’s already
                                                                                                                           allready Sunday,
                                                                                                                                    S       and there are so many things to
     and Alexandre arrive right in the heart of Charlev-      by Rimbaud, who was born at 12, rue Napoleon (now       do. Following the advice of their hotelier, they rent
     ille-Mézières, the ideal city imagined and founded       rue Bérégovoy).                                         bicycles to take the Rimbaud tour, via the station
     in 1606 by "G@QKDRƝCDƝ&NMY@FTD.                                                                                  square, former college and cemetery.
                                                              ESNAM
                                                              16 avenue Jean Jaurès
     65I55 ¹                                                 +33 [0]3 24 33 72 50
     The place Ducale 1 , the twin of the famous Place        www.marionnette.com                                                  665I85 ¹
     des Vosges in Paris, is a must-see. There are cafés,                                                             Th yellow
                                                                                                                      The     ll stones of the Old Mill, where the Rim-
     shops, restaurants and tourist information points. The                                                           baud Museum is housed 7 look splendid in the
     couple visit an exhibition at the Vitrine des Ardennes                                                           sun. Once inside, the discovery of the poet’s original
     (Ardennes Showcase).                                                 667 9:                                      manuscripts is a moving experience. Outside again,
                                                              L h bbreak,
                                                              Lunch      k with local products. White sausage,        Anne and Alexandre cross the street and find the
                                                              fresh vegetables, local beer. And of course, a          Maison des Ailleurs (known as the “House of the
                                                              carolo for dessert.                                     Illustrious”), which evokes Rimbaud’s travels, and
                              666I55 ¹                                                                               was his childhood home.
     Th are enthralled
     They          h ll d to discover the magnificent
     Musée de l’Ardenne (Ardenne Museum) 2 in a                                                                    Musée Arthur Rimbaud
     house on the square. This framework of stone and                     8I55                                   Quai Rimbaud
     glass houses 2000 years of local history from                  ň Ň via the Cours Briand and the Avenue +33 [0]3 24 32 44 65
                                                          Off to ,ňYHŇQDR
     Roman times to the present. The unexpected view      d’Arches for a guided tour of the medieval quarter, Maison des Ailleurs
     of the Grand Marionnettiste (Great Puppeteer) 3      and a stroll on the ramparts 5 . This area, once de- 7 Quai Rimbaud
     prompts them to go and have a look at this automaton,fended by the "GDU@KHDQƝ!@X@QC and scarred by the +33 [0]3 24 32 44 70
     the symbol of the world capital of puppet theatres.  wars from 1870 to 1945, houses some little-known www.charleville-mezieres.fr
                                                          treasures. Our two friends discover the magnificent
     Musée de l’Ardenne                                   Notre-Dame d’Espérance basilica, famous for its
     31 place Ducale                                      contemporary stained glass, the work of René Dürrbach,
     +33 [0]3 24 32 44 60                                 a pupil of Picasso.                                                      667I85
     www.charleville-mezieres.fr                                                                                  TToday
                                                                                                                     d they’ll
                                                                                                                          h ’l have a picnic. Starting from Mont-
     Grand marionnettiste                                                                                          cy-Notre-Dame, the young couple pedal along
     Place Winston Churchill                                                                                       the GreenWay 8 in search of a quiet spot. As
     Presentation of a playlet of the legend of the Four
     Sons of Aymon every hour from 10 am to 9 pm. Full B
                                                                          I55 
       Ɲ"(-$, Ɲ(-Ɲ3'$Ɲ"$-31$Ɲ.%Ɲ3.6-                                                                                  To make the most of their stay, Anne and Alexandre
     The Métropolis is not only one of Fritz Lang’s masterpieces,                                                     decide to take the last train. Delighted by the authen-
     it is also a cinema in the heart of Charleville-Mézières,                                                        ticity and beauty of the region, they resolve to return.
     a stone’s throw from the Place Ducale.

24
2

       6              7

                                                             SOME
                                                             SUGGESTIONS
                                                             FROM

                                                             AMEL
                                                             BOUDERRA
                                                            # *-( 0++ / # -
                                 º' ( *0 --ƛI              ƛ/-  ./$1ƛ(J “Discover
                                 leader of the FCBA          a show at every turning as
                                 (Flammes Carolo             you stroll through the city!
                                 Basket) was voted          There’s a really friendly
                                 best player in              atmosphere. Every two
                                 France in 2016              years the city is full of life
                                 and 2017.

          1
                                                             from morning to evening.”
1                                                            *)/D(4'+ J “I love
                              it. You just have to climb it. There is a flat area at
                              the top, and you can sit down or play, and there’s
        ¹                a lovely view of Charleville-Mézières. Below you
    The exceptional area of   can watch the boats passing along the Meuse, near
       the Place Ducale.      the swimming pool, and children playing basketball.
                              You always meet young people. And you feel almost
                              outside the city. It’s perfect for a picnic.”
                              # . ƛ/. ) ƛ- /# ( $((J “Of course, there’s
                              the Place Ducale. You need to take the time to look
                              around, stroll along the rue du Moulin, read the
                              poems on the seats near the Musée Rimbaud, and
                              take photos.”
                              # º1 )0 ¦º-# .J “The buildings on this avenue,
                              on the other side of the city, towards Mézières, are in a
                              magnificent Art Deco style. The town hall is attractive
                              too, and if you are going as far as Mézières, take the
                              Rue Monge, pass the army barracks and the Meuse
       5             8        and continue to the Exhibition Park. That’s where we
                              train. The matches are held from October to May.”

       3             4
AD V E R TISE M E NT

                                 MUSÉE
                                                                                       Running commentaries,
                                                                                       temporary exhibitions, book fair,
                                                                                       concerts, and more.

                                 VERLAINE
                        REVAMP THE CLICHES
                         PROGRAMME, PRICES, BOOKING…                              1 RUE DU PONT PAQUIS
                         MORE DETAILS FROM                                        08310 JUNIVILLE
                         WWW.MUSEE-VERLAINE.FR                                    +33 [0]3 24 39 68 00

                                Pays Rethélois Tourism Office
                                3 Quai d'Orfeuil • 08300 Rethel • www.sud-ardennes-tourisme.com
                                                                     Illustration based on a photo by Marc Gaillot
DIS COVERY

                                                                                                                        TRAIL
                                                                                                                        RIMBAUD
                                                                                                                        VERLAINE
                                                                                                                        ROUTE
                                                                                                                        This tour, comprising
                                                                                                                        eight stages of between
                                                                                                                        20 and 50 km, takes you
                                                                                                                        in the footsteps of
                                                                                                                        the two poets.

                IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE POETS

       RIMBAUD VS VERLAINE
       Arthur Rimbaud and Paul
Verlaine are among the great-
                                        “
                                        Verlaine was the first to recognise
                                            Rimbaud’s potential genius.                  the
                                                                                                     ”
                                                                                         have far more importance in
                                                                                              life of these two poets than
est of French poets. It was here,                                                        is generally accepted. The two
in the French Ardennes at the                                                            poets met, loved each other and
end of the 19th century, that they lived a turbulent rela- finally hated each other in Paris, London and Brussels. But
tionship. "It’s impossible to separate Rimbaud from Ver- less is said of their common roots in the Ardennes. And yet
laine. Without Verlaine, we might never have known the real they are very deep. Rimbaud was constantly leaving, only to
Rimbaud," asserts Maryse Aubry, who created the Rimbaud return. Verlaine lived many happy summers in his father’s
Tour, which starts in Roche. "Verlaine is the only person to family. After the "Rimbaud affair" the Ardennes were the site
recognise the potential genius in Rimbaud", confirms Marc of a double quest. That of the redemption of Verlaine (as
Gaillot, the enthusiastic guide at the Verlaine Museum in teacher and farmer), and that of the flight of Rimbaud. By a
Juniville, where the poet lived for several years. They both strange destiny, their paths never crossed again. Rimbaud
defend a version of the story in which the French Ardennes was far away. They never met again.

                     ROCHE                         º                      ǎǏ                     º  ǎǏ
The Auberge du Lion d’or    The "THE 1HLA@TC left        The epicentre of the “myth”   In April-May 1873, Rimbaud,      º ǎǏ
(Verlaine Museum),          Charleville to go to the     with the Rimbaud Museum,      Verlaine et Delahaye
known as “House of the      family farm. Today only      The Maison des Ailleurs,      were drinking partners           ģ   ǎǏ
Illustrious” witnessed      a wall is left standing.     the cemetery,                 at the Hôtel de la Poste         From 1845 to 1873, Paul
Verlaine's passage to       A 7 km tour explores         and the Rimbaud tour…         or the Hôtel des Ardennes.       Verlaine spent summers in
the south of the Ardennes   this region that inspired                                  On 25th May, they decided        the “land of his heart” with
when he wanted to become    Rimbaud to write             0.ļ $'ƛ0                  to leave for London.             his aunts Julie and Henriette.
a farmer with his friend    Une Saison en enfer.          / ƛ$.*)  . º$(( 0-.        In July, Verlaine fired a shot   A 5 km tour introduces you
Lucien Létinois.                                         +33 [0]3 24 32 44 65          at Rimbaud in Brussels.          to his life here.
                            gb.ardennes.com              www.charleville-mezieres.fr
Musée Verlaine              > “Rimbaud-Verlaine route”                                 gb.ardennes.com                  gb.ardennes.com
+33 [0]3 24 39 68 00                                                                   > “Rimbaud-Verlaine route”       > “Rimbaud-Verlaine route”
www.musee-verlaine.fr

                                                                                                                                                         27
EM OT ION

     DID YOU KNOW?
                                                 THE CABARET VERT

                                               A UNIQUE
     A NAME IN THE FORM
     OF A TRIBUTE
                The "@A@QDSƝ5DQS
                is the name of a poem
                by Rimbaud written
                during an escapade

                                                 STATE OF MIND
                in Belgium.

                2018 edition from
                23rd to 26th August
                Details:                          I N DEP ENDEN T, CO NVIVIAL , AUTH E NTIC, S IMPL E , G E NE RO US ,
                www.cabaretvert.com
                                                  RESP ONSI B LE AND FE S TIVE O F CO URS E ! TH E CABARE T VE RT
                                                  I S THE Q UI N T E S S E NCE O F TH E ARDE NNE S .

     The surprise of discovery •
     International stars are not              “What an incredible atmosphere!
                                                  Over and above the concerts,                     toon     ”
                                                                                                    Living and open arts • Car-
                                                                                                         strips, street art, film pro-
     alone on the stage of the             what I remember are the encounters                       jections: culture doesn’t stop
     Cabaret Vert. There’s a place            during meals. You can spend time                      at music. Outside the concerts
     for rising stars and emerging                 with friends, or make new                       themselves, festival goers im-
     artists too. There’s an ethos of                      acquaintances.                           merse themselves in a host of
     renewal that is noticeable in                                                                  other worlds. Little islands of
     every creative field, from ca-                                LOLA, 20
                                                                                                    curious and delicious events.
     tering to decoration, including                                                               655• /(*Ƙ# In 2017, 2,000
     the theatre. Every edition brings its collection of surprises. people worked free of charge for 3 weeks to prepare the
     Ecology is in its DNA • The first French ecology friendly festival… With enthusiasm and generosity, in a legendary
     festival, which signed a chart for the environment in 2005, atmosphere of goodwill. Because the excellent welcome is
     has constantly progressed. With its emphasis on short cir- not reserved only for the festival goers.
     cuits, responsible consumption, draconian waste manage- Among the artists on stage: The Chemical Brothers, Iggy
     ment (with its own waste sorting unit!), the creation of a think Pop, Archive, Massive Attack, Placebo, Prodigy, Emir Kus-
     tank (the Ideal), awarded the “Greener festival” prize in 2010, turica, Catherine Ringer, Christine and The Queen, Dionysos,
     it is now supporting a European sustainable development Franz Ferdinand, Indochine, Louise Attaque, Arno, Korn… and
     programme.                                                          many more!

         ¹ Ǜ    ¹  ¹Ǜ¹
        ¹I ¹ F ¹ F
      "The church of Asfeld, in the shape of a viola           has hosted some of the greatest names of clas-
       de gamba, is a real gem".                               sical music: Jordi Savall, Paolo Pandolfo, Guido
                                                               Balestracci … For its next edition on 23rd and 24th
       More than 10 years after discovering it, Jean-Louis     June 2018, the president of the Asfeld Heritage
       Charbonnier, teacher of viola de gamba in Paris         Association, Aline Beaujard, is expecting as many
       (and Gérard Depardieu’s musical double in “All the      as 5,000 people from Spain, Austria, Italy, the UK,
       mornings of the world”) is still dazzled by this 17th   Belgium, and France of course: an international
       century marvel "present in art books all over the       appeal that is perfectly normal for this string in-
       world". This amazement, shared with other enthu-        strument, close to the guitar with its six strings Details:
       siasts, led to the creation of the Asfeld biennial      and its frets, which was played in all the European www.paysrethelois.fr
       viola de gamba festival, unique in Europe, which        courts from the 15th to the 18th centuries.         www.violedegambe.org

28
FESTIVALS FOR
EVERY TASTE
GUITAR
Rencontre guitar et patrimoine
(Guitar and heritage encounters)
offers moments of pure, simple
beauty, celebrating summer with
outstanding instrumentalists in
the most prestigious sites of Sedan
and its region. The programme
includes baroque, classical,
jazz and “world music”.
"$+3("
The end of July brings a Celtic
atmosphere to the Platelle of
the Quatre Fils Aymon, Bogny-
sur-Meuse, with the Aymon Folk
Festival, which celebrated
its 20th anniversary in 2017.
"+ 22(" +Ɲ,42("
(-Ɲ3'$Ɲ".4-318
Classical music comes to the
countryside with the Musicales de
Louvergny, under the supervision
of the Italian artistic director, Paolo
Gatto. Internationally renowned
artists, musicians and opera singers
will be performing with good humour
and fantasy in various villages of the
Vouzinois region.

  -#Ɲ +2.a
The château de la Cour des Prés,
a 16th century castle in Rumigny,
is another exceptional site for
musical evenings. The concerts take
place in summer, and are followed
by a candle dinner. Details:
+ 33 [0]3 24 35 52 66.

All concerts and festivals
gb.ardennes.com
> “events”

                                  29
EX P ER IEN CES

                              MIDDLE AGES IN SEDAN

                                   LIVING
                                  HISTORY
                                   HEN RI I V, EL I SA BE TH O F AUS TRIA, TURE NNE . . .
                     GREAT NAMES HAVE C ONTEMP L ATE D TH IS CAS TL E , TH E L ARG E S T IN E URO PE
                            L ET YOURSEL F B E C ARR IE D AWAY BY ITS MAG IC US E R G UIDE

     Imagine • Even from the moat or                                                                       Watch a tournament • Sigis-
     the castle court, the silhouette of                                                                   mond, the guest of the Prince de
     this stone colossus seems very                                                                        la Marck, is a bad sport. He thinks
     unusual. Seen from its heights,                                                                       he is a better fighting man than
     the ramparts and wall walk appeal                                                                     his host. They challenge each
     to the wildest imagination. Can                                                                       other to a duel. The two lords
     you see the young Charlotte de                                                                        and their faithful companions will
     la Marck welcoming her troops,                                                                        confront each other in the lists.
     over there?                                                                                           They await your encouragement.
     Enjoy a visit • Pierce the se-                                                                        Thrills and excitement are guar-
     crets of its towers, gates and                                                                        anteed throughout the summer,
     ramparts. Reconstitutions tell                                                                        or during the Medieval Festival.
     you the great and small history                                                                       Feast • And experience a wak-
     of the place. Raymond le Marm-                                                                        ing dream on 26th and 27th May.
     iton has escaped from the cas-                                                                        With 400 extras and numerous
     tle kitchens to guide visiting                                                                        companies and craftsmen, the
     children.                                                                                             medieval festival gives you a
                                                                                                           one-way ticket to the Middle
                                                                               Ages. Daily life, workshops (cooking, forge, glassblowing,
       Ǔ  Ɠ  ¹ ¹                  Ɠ ǔ                              garment making, juggling, fire eaters, and a medieval market:
         7555                                                              you could even get married!
       The city of Sedan proposes several                                      /. )( 3)/, )-./& Disguise yourself for the Medie-
       discovery tours with different themes: Guided tours                     val Festival or take advantage of the collection of period
       Immerse yourself in Sedan, Turenne, during the summer                   costumes in the photographic studio in the castle. An un-
       Sedan during the Great War, Sedan season.                               forgettable photo opportunity is available throughout the
       Hospital, etc.                                                          festival or in the summer period.

                                                                                                             The castle is open every day from 10 am
                                                                                                             to 5 pm (last departure at 5 pm),
                                                 DID YOU KNOW?
                                                                                                             except Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
              8 --("*Ɲ-. 'Ɲ6 2Ɲ!.1-Ɲ(-Ɲ2$# -
              The famous French tennis player is the son of the professional
                 footballer Zacharie Noah, of the CSSA (Club Sportif Sedan
                               Ardennes), which won the French Cup in 1961.
                                                                                 Sedan Castle                        Charleville/Sedan
                                                                                 +33 [0]3 24 29 98 80                in Ardennes Tourist Office
                                                                                 www.chateau-fort-sedan.fr           +33 [0]3 24 27 73 73
                                                                                                                     www.charleville-sedan-tourisme.fr
30
THE CITY IN
    5 KEY HISTORICAL
         DATES
MILESTONES
                       Ɠ
Aurélien Behr is the guide selected for official vis-
its: President Hollande in January 2017, Françoise
Nyssen, Culture Minister, in September. A member
of the SHAS (Sedan region society of history and
archaeology), and the author of “Sedan, an interna-
tional and denominational focus”, he reveals 5 key
dates for Sedan.
ƛ-(4 7J His son, Robert IV, married Françoise de Brézé, the      "'41"'Ɲ.%Ɲ2 (-3ǚ
daughter of Diane de Poitiers, the mistress of Henri II of
France. Henri II stayed at the castle for a month in 1552.     "' 1+$2ǚ!.11.,į$
                                                               Behind its sombre façade, typical
*1 ' - 7;=6J Disguised, Charles IX mingles with
                                                               of the classical style, the church
the crowd to watch his future wife, Elizabeth of Austria, at
                                                               of Saint-Charles-Borromée hides
the foot of the bastion des Dames (Ladies bastion). The
                                                               a rarity: a Protestant church dating
marriage was celebrated in Mézières on 26th November.          from the end of the 16th century.
77  +/ ' - 7
AD V E R TISE M E NT
H ER ITAG E

 DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT SEEING

THE JEWELS
OF THE ARDENNES
  FROM THE STAR OF ROC RO I TO TH E CITADE L O F G IVE T, PAS S ING BY MO UZO N
       AN D THE FORTI F I ED CH URCH E S O F TH IE RACH E , E S CAPE DO WN
                  THE PAT H S O F ARCH ITE CTURAL PE ARL S .

                                                                                  1
2                                                                                                                                                                                             4

                                                                                3
                                                                             LANGUAGES
                                                                              Tour of Charlemont and Citadel
                                                                                of Givet, in French, English
3                                                                                        and Dutch

     ROCROI             1
                                                    CHARLEMONT                    2
                                                                                                  ę
                                                                                                   ęº                                    
                                                                                                                                                
     “A stone star in a verdant setting”, Rocroi,   $/ƛ ( *! $1 /                                                            3                                               4
                                                                                                 MONTCORNET                                   AND ITS GEMS
      an Ardennes " Small city of character", is    Perched on a rocky spur, Charlemont was      This 11th and 12th century medieval for-     Recently classed as a “Small city of
      unique as much for its architecture and       built in the 16th century on the orders of   tress, although partially destroyed, has a   character”, Mouzon is a pearl full of sur-
      fortifications as for its History. On 19th    Charles Quint, whence its name: Charles'     special charm. Constantly modified until     prises. Between the Porte de Bourgogne
      May 1643, the Duke of Enghien, soon           Mount, and modified by Vauban in the         the 16th century, it is a unique example     (a gate in the 13th century fortifications),
      to be known as the “Grand Condé”, de-         17th century. Now classified as a historic   of architectural adaptation to the de-       its classified abbey church (12th to 19th
      feated the Spanish army besieging the         monument, the citadel held a strategic       velopment of artillery. When the castle      centuries, early Gothic style), its organs,
      city. It was a turning point in the history   position in Europe for many years. Since     was cleared, many objects from daily life    also classified, and a curious “recluse’s
      of France, at the beginning of the reign      2017 its eastern point, undoubtedly the      were discovered, and are displayed in        cell”, this little town is an ideal place for
      of Louis XIV.                                 most spectacular, can be visited from        one of the preserved rooms.                  a complete change of air. The village also
                                                    July to September. It offers remarkable                                                   houses the Musée du Feutre (Felt Mu-
     Rocroi and North-West                          views of Givet and its valley.               Association of friends                       seum), the only one of its kind in France.
     Ardennes Tourist Office                                                                     of Montcornet
     +33 [0]3 24 54 20 06                           Val d’Ardennes Tourism                       +33 [0]3 24 54 93 48                         A stage on the Route des abbayes
     www.otrocroi.com                               +33 [0]3 24 42 92 42                         +33 [0]6 71 15 43 15                         to be found on gb.ardennes.com
                                                    www.valdardennetourisme.com                  www.chateaudemontcornet.fr                   > rubrique “tourist routes”

34
5                                                                                                                                                                        6

                                                                                 6
                                                                               TOURS
                                                                                  to discover

                                                                                                        OPEN YOUR
                                                                           the 65 fortified churches
7                                                                                of Thiérache

                                                                                                     PEEPERS AND FORGET
                                                                                                    THE REST.
                                                                                                                                              DID YOU KNOW?
                                                                                                                                              
                                                                                                                                               º 
                                                                                                                                              There are two “village
                                                                                                                                              étapes” (stopover villages)
                                                                                                                                              in the French Ardennes:
                                                                                                                                              Rocroi, in the north near
                                                                                                                                              the Belgian frontier,
                                                                                                                                              and Launois-sur-Vence 8 ,
                                                                                                                                              in the heart of the Ardennes
                                                                                                                                              foothills. The village is also
                                                                                                                                              known for its 17th century
                                                                                                                          8                   postal station.

    FORTIFIED
     O                                          ǚºƔ
                                               º                                          + $ƛ(
                                                                                              $ !ƛ1*0-$/
                                       HERMITAGE 6                                    º ǚº 
     ģº  5                                 At an altitude of 350 metres, the            ºǚģ 7
    Signy-le-Petit, Aouste, Liart, Rouv-       Saint-Walfroy hermitage overlooks the       Deep in the forest at an altitude of 500 metres, the church
    roy-sur-Audry… The French Ardennes         Yvois country and offers an unbeatable      of Saint-Antoine des Hauts-Buttés seems like the back of beyond.
    have some twenty fortified churches.       view. An ancient pagan cult centre for      Dating from the 19th century, this still active pilgrimage site,
    These places of worship, flanked by        the worship of Arduinna, the goddess        dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua, seems to be frozen in time.
    defensive towers and embellished with      of hunting and forests, it takes its name   2,500 votive offerings on the walls (not counting those
    machicolations, arrow slits and barti-     from Deacon Walfroy, who converted the      removed for safety reasons) give it irresistible charm.
    zans, were modified to serve as places     Ardennes in the 6th century. A cross, a
    of refuge for the local populations in a   church and a park complete this calm,
    dangerous environment.                     peaceful site, a place of pilgrimage and
                                               spiritual retreat.
    Ardennes Thiérache
    Association of Municipalities              Tourist Office of
    +33 [0]3 24 26 13 31                       Portes du Luxembourg
    www.ardennes-thierache.com                 +33 [0]3 24 29 79 91
                                               www.portesduluxembourg.fr
                                                                                                                                                                         35
AD V E R TISE M E NT

                       Its shape evokes a butterfly with infinite depth
                       and colour: a new territory is spreading its wings today.
                       Do as it does, and take flight to discover ... the Valleys
                       and Plateau of the Ardennes.
                       From the splendid star-shaped city of Rocroy to the
                       spectacular river bend at Monthermé, through the legends
                       of the four sons of Aymon or the Ladies of the Meuse, from
                       the heights of the Rocher des Grands-Ducs or the foot of the
                       Chateau of Montcornet, on a boat on the lake at Veilles Forges
                       or by bike on the Trans-Semoysienne, following the industrial
                       heritage at the Museum of Metallurgy at Bogny sur Meuse
                       and the Slate Museum in Rimogne, on the trace of natural
                       resources in the Forest Museum in Renwez and the museum
                       of minerals and fossiles, in immersion in the Aquatic Centre
                       in Rocroy, enjoying activities in the Ardennes adventure park,
                       or quite simply with all the family at Elfy Park,
                       spread your wings and have a change of air:
                       the Ardennes opens its arms to you.

                       www.cc-valleesetplateaudardenne.fr
                                                   Two Tourist Offices
                                                   at your service
                                                   Boucles de Meuse et Semoy :
                                                   +33 [0]3 24 54 46 73
                                                   > contact©meuse-semoy-
                                                   tourisme.com
                                                   Rocroy :
                                                   +33 [0]3 24 54 20 06
                                                   > info©otrocroi.com
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