RITZ H OSPITALITY WesternEdition Spring&Summer2005 - PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID PERMIT NO. 584
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R ITZ H OSPITALITY
Western Edition Spring & Summer 2005
PRSRT STD
U.S. POSTAGE
PAID
PERMIT NO. 584
BOISE, ID
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W E S T C O A S T F A M I L Y O F H O T E L S
Western Edition Ritz Hospitality • 3
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4 • Ritz Hospitality www.ritzfamilypublishing.com
Ritz Hospitality
Western Edition Spring/Summer 2005
What’s Inside
features sections
Lewis and Clark His-
toric Trail From The
PAGE 22
Editor’s Desk ................. 6
The Corps of Discovery
Through Idaho’s Native Ameri- Food
can Homeland 1805-1806 ...... 7 Gilroy’s Garlic Festival ......... 18
Idaho Fun Facts & Trivia ....... 24 Almonds: Handy Nutrition In a
Oregon Fun Facts & Trivia .... 38 Nutshell ................................ 26
The ghost of Artichokes-
Armbruster Pike .................. 57 An Easy Special Treat .......... 40
profiles Travel
Tips on Trips ......................... 31
PAGE 34 Coral Pink Stand Dunes
State Park ............................. 20
California, Nevada,
The Sacajawea Interpretive,
Utah Cultural, and Education Center
.. 25
Develop Your Intuition at the An American Stonehedge in
Berkeley Psychic Institute Maryhill, WA ......................... 44
Online ................................... 21 Mount St. Helens Legends ... 46
Cape Disappointment .......... 48
Idaho
Marketplace
Free Style Defensive Arts ..... 27 Idaho .................................... 33
PAGE 43 Fun Adventures .................... 27 Oregon ................................. 42
Washington .......................... 48
Oregon
On The Cover: Community Contact
Pendleton Round-Up ........... 35 Information
Montage Photo Credits (From top of Cov- The Red Lion Astoria ........... 37
er): Boise Train Depot courtesy from David California .............................. 50
Shield Crest Golf Course ..... 40 Idaho .................................... 52
Madsen, Beach Sunset and Youngs River
Falls courtesy from Andrew Cier, Collecting Wildlife Safari ....................... 41 Nevada ................................. 53
and Canoe Paddling courtesy from National Oregon ................................. 53
Park Services. Utah ...................................... 54
Want to see your photo grace the pages of
Washington
Washington .......................... 55
our magazine? Give us a call at 1-800-330-
3482 or e-mail: info@ritzfamilypublishing.
Ilwaco Heritage Museum ....... 9 Advertisers Index ...... 58
com for image requirements.
(All submissions subject to approval)
Western Edition Ritz Hospitality • 5
Ranches - Farms Fun in the Sun!
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For A Real Vacation On The Lake!
403 Soldier RD.
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(509) 632-5364
www.bluelakeresortwashington.com
(208) 764-3011 Jeff Grass
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31199 Hwy. 17 North
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HOMETOWN REALTY
We Don’t Want To Change Your Mind Just Change Your Address
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E-mail: hometown@salmonidahorealty.com
Website: www.salmonidahorealty.com
208-756-6900
Toll Free: 1-888-701-2946
529 Main Street
Salmon, ID 83467-4220
6 • Ritz Hospitality www.ritzfamilypublishing.com
From The Editor’s Desk:
Ritz H ospitality
a Ritz Family Publication
President / CEO
When Spring Comes Around Michael Ritz
mikeritz@ritzfamilypublishing.com
Executive V.P. Operations/
Editor
I t’s a new year and with it comes spring and summer and all these Robert Davis
rdavis@ritzfamilypublishing.com
seasons have to offer. Animals, and people too, come out of
National Sales Manager
their winter hibernation. Plants come alive, flowers bloom, the lawn
Chuck Paterson
grows taller... (maybe some kid will come by with his lawn mower
and save me this year). Office Manager
Spring and summer allow us to do the thing we enjoy. Granted, we Angie Hawkins
all find different and unique things relaxing or enjoyable. Riding a Graphics
mountain bike up a trail. Going fishing with the kids at the lake or on Tara Whelchel
tara@ritzfamilypublishing.com
the banks of a river. Polishing your car and taking it out on a cruise
Heather Heaton
night. heather@ritzfamilypublishing.com
Thing is, many of us can’t wait for this time of year and yet when it Executive Secretary
comes we fail to do the things we enjoy because we never seem to Amy Gronewoller
find the time. Hey, we all have the ability to choose whether or not amy@ritzfamilypublishing.com
we will do these things. Why not?
I guess this is my point. We are creatures of habit. Yes, admit it. Ritz Family Publishing, Inc.
When is the last time you took a different route from work to home www.ritzfamilypublishing.com
just to do something different? Can’t remember? Gone fishing late- Corporate Office
ly? I know for me, the last time I picked up my fishing pole was to Ritz Family Publishing, Inc.
move it when I was cleaning the garage. Lame. 714 N Main Street
Make a point to get out this year and do, well, something. Get out Meridian, ID 83642
there and enjoy life. You owe it to yourself. Take that well deserved Sales
vacation to perhaps another State, go camping or go see the family. For all sales inquiries, call toll
Go to the park, a concert, or one of the many ongoing Lewis and free 1(800) 330-3482 or
Clark events. Throw the dirt bikes or the fishing gear in the back of 1(208) 955-0124
the truck and go have an adventure. Get in your car and discover sales@ritzfamilypublishing.com
something new on a scenic highway or byway. Subscriptions
Hey, it’s ok to shrug off some of your responsibilities once in a For a subscription or to change
while. Yes, even mowing the lawn, unless you enjoy that sort of your existing address, call toll
thing. I think I’ll keep looking for the kid with the lawn mower. n free 1(800) 330-3482 or
1(208) 955-0124
info@ritzfamilypublishing.com
Printed By
Idaho Press-Tribune, Nampa, ID
Copyright© 2005. All rights reserved.
Every effort has been made to ensure ac-
curacy of this publication, however, the
publisher does not assume responsibility
for omissions or typographical errors.
The publisher does not assume respon-
sibility or is liable for the contents of any
Robert F Davis advertising herein. Publisher’s liability
Eexecutive V.P. Operations / Editor for errors in an advertisement is limited to
E-mail: rdavis@ritzfamilypublishing.com a correct insertion in the next publication.
In the event of a misprint, the publisher
must be informed of such error prior to
printing of the next publication.
Western Edition Ritz Hospitality • 7
The Corps of Discovery Through Idaho’s Native Ameri-
can Homeland 1805-1806
By: Carole Simon-Smolinksi
(Editor’s Note: The expedition journals are full of words with pho- constraints as well as cultural assumptions and misunderstanding
netic spellings, which was the custom of the period. We have chosen caused expedition members to miss valuable opportunities for cul-
to present these words in their author’s original form rather than tural exchange at this critical juncture of first contact.
correct the spellings.) Today, as we hear the oral histories of these tribes we better un-
I
n 1803, President Thomas Jefferson commissioned Meri- derstand why the people welcomed and helped strangers in their
wether Lewis and William Clark to find “the most direct and homelands. Their stories add a dimension to our understanding of
practicable water communication across this continent, for the the dynamics of trade, travel, and mutual dependence, character-
purposes of commerce.” When the Corps of Discovery departed istics that framed the societies and eluded expedition journalists.
St. Louis in May, 1804, the party destined to cross the continent Native encounter with the Corps of Discovery was a small passage
consisted of Captain Lewis and Clark, 26 volunteers and Army in the bigger story.
regulars, Clark’s black slave York, and Lewis’s Newfoundland Among the Lemhi Shoshoni (Aqui-dika) of Central Idaho
dog, Seaman. On August 9, Captain Lewis, Drouillard, Shields and McNeal left
This military unit of experienced outdoorsmen followed the Mis- Clark and the main party behind at Three Forks and pressed ahead
souri River through today’s Missouri, Iowa, Nebraska, South Da- in search of Sacajawea’s Shoshoni people, the “Aqui-dikas.” Fol-
kota, and North Dakota, where they built Fort Mandan, (north of lowing a Lemhi Shoshoni hunting trail they crossed the Continen-
present Bismarck) and spent the winter of 1804-05. tal Divide [Lemhi Pass, We yah-vee] and came upon [Aqui-pah,]
While visiting nearby Hidatsa and Mandan villages the captains the headwaters of “the great Columbia river.” It was at that place
hired French trader Toussaint Charbonneau as interpreter and they first beheld the majestic “sea of mountains”— the Bitter-
guide. Charbonneau’s young Lemhi Shoshoni wife Sacajawea and roots [Kannah Doya Huveed]—a totally unexpected mountainous
their infant son Jean Baptiste would prove to be an asset to the ex- barricade over or through which they had to pass. Reliance upon
pedition when it reached her native homeland in present-day Idaho. Shoshoni horses, mapping and geographic information became in-
Not only were her language skills helpful, but native peoples were creasingly more apparent. But they found no Shoshoni.
less suspicious of white men traveling with a native woman and Increasingly frustrated by their absence, Lewis wrote: “We begin
her child. to feel considerable anxiety with rispect to the Snake [Shoshoni]
By mid August, 1805 their travels brought the 31 members of the Indians. If we do not find them or some other nation who have
Corps of Discovery to Three Forks, Montana, headwaters of the horses I fear the successful issue of our voyage will be very doubt-
Missouri River. From there on they needed horses to make what ful....” Unknown to Lewis, during late spring and summer the
they thought would be an easy portage across of the Great Stoney people fished in the river valleys and would not return to the moun-
Mountains [Rocky Mountains] to navigable headwaters of the Co- tains to hunt for a month. There were however a few people in the
lumbia. vicinity.
They were beyond the western border of the Louisiana Purchase After prior unsuccessful attempts to make contact the advance
and for the first time entering land about which they had no knowl- party came upon three women digging for wild carrots [Yump].
edge. As they entered the homeland of the Lemhi Shoshoni, Salish, When they sighted the men with “faces pale as ashes” one woman
and Nez Perce people it would prove to be the most difficult part fled while the elderly woman and young girl lowered their heads
of their entire journey. awaiting certain death. “...They appeared much allarmed but saw
Expedition members had no idea how they would be received that we were to near for them to escape by flight they therefore
but realized with each passing mile that their success would de- seated themselves on ground holding down their heads as if recon-
pend upon native good will. Unfortunately linguistic and time ciled to die which the[y] expected no doubt would be their fate...”
8 • Ritz Hospitality www.ritzfamilypublishing.com
Lewis took the older woman by the hand, gave her gifts and daubed Suddenly Sacajawea began to dance for joy. She recognized her
vermilion on her face. Sacajawea had told him it was a symbol of brother, Chief Cameahwait, and a woman who had been captured
peace. She then led the four strangers along the Lemhi trail towards with her in a Hidatsa raid. “Shortly after Capt Clark arrived with
a village. Interpreter Charbono, and the Indian woman, who proved to be the
Soon 60 mounted men appeared, prepared to fight. One of the sister of Chief Cameahwait. The meeting of those people was real-
men, Chief Cameahwait, talked with the woman, then walked ly affecting, particularly between Sah-cah-gar-we-ah and an Indian
over to Lewis, and, much to Lewis’ surprise, warmly embraced woman, who had been taken prisoner at the same time with her and
him with a “national hug.” The older woman had reassured Cam- who, had afterwards escaped from the Minnetares and rejoined her
eahwait in her native tongue that these men meant no harm. For nation” Her assurances that the Americans could be trusted, as well
among the Lemhi Shoshoni people, from time immemorial, the gift as her translation assistance, soothed any lingering apprehensions.
of vermilion [Bee-sha] is a sacred item and symbolizes the giver’s Curious about the strangers, boats, equipment, York and Lewis’
prayerful wish for the well being and safety of the recipient’s fam- dog Seaman, the Shoshoni people warmly welcomed their guests as
ily and people. the parties reunited and gathered at a place called Camp Fortunate.
Despite this initial rite of acceptance, the Lemhi Shoshonis were There Lewis made preparations for the portage, a six day endeavor
still apprehensive about the intent and presence of these strangers, that gave him the opportunity to observe and record characteristics
because it was so soon after a battle with the Blackfeet [Buckee of the northern Shoshoni culture. His observations were both com-
hu-uh]. Lewis could not know they were suspected of being agents plimentary and clouded with his own ethnocentrism. Clark, Char-
for the Blackfeet, or for that matter other enemy tribes. Over the bonneau, Sacajawea and eleven others returned across the Divide
next few days he became increasingly aware of Lemhi Shoshoni with Cameahwait to his village on the Lemhi River [Pah-dye]. The
mistrust. oral history of her people describe this event and their first sighting
Believing that his success in soliciting help to portage baggage of her. “We saw her coming with the white men carrying her babe
across Lemhi Pass and secure horses for their continued travels on her back in a wrapped willow cradleboard. She came up over a
depended upon his diplomatic skills, trading abilities, even intimi- foothill which had loose shale rocks on one side. They were very
dation tactics, Lewis was willing to promise and do anything to careful to walk on the better side of the hill as they came down
get that help. Cameahwait drove a hard bargain because the Lemhi among us.”
Shoshoni needed American trade goods, specifically guns and am- Following their arrival Clark requested geographical information;
munition to arm themselves against enemies to the east and south Cameahwait provided a description of the Lemhi, Salmon, and
who already had the advanced weapons. Nonetheless, his decisions Continue on page 10
were still cautiously made to help the strangers. Later at separate
Attend Our Grand Opening Of Our New 20,500 sq. ft. Facility
times both Lewis and Clark assured them that future Americans On Memorial Day, May 30, 2005
would supply guns if the Shoshoni provided furs.
The advance party and their Lemhi Shoshoni entourage returned
to the forks of the Beaverhead [Hunnee-Bumbee Gahdud] where
Clark and the main party were to meet them. They were not there;
suspicions mounted. On August 17, in perhaps the most serendipi-
tous moment of the expedition, Clark, Sacajawea, and Chabonneau
watched as Lewis and the Aquidika rode up to them.
“They Shall Not Be Forgotten”
A memorial to generations of American
men and women who have honorably
served our nation during peacetime and war,
so that all Americans might enjoy
the freedoms we have today.
• Sixty 8x7’ Display Cases • “USO” Reception Area • Laurence
Mark Library • Stan Prince Viewing Room • POW/MIA
Remembrance Room • Gift Store • Items from Revolutionary War
to Bosnia - Weapons, Uniforms, Equipment, Medal, Letters,
Photographs, Memorabilia
Hours: Mon-Sat 10 am - 5 pm
Admission: Adults - $3.00, Students $1.50, Under six - Free
For More Information Call (360) 330-7913
100 SW Veterans Way • Chehalis, WA 95832
www.veteransmuseum.org • E-mail: vmm@quik.com
Also Visit Centralia’s many antique stores,
outlet malls and city parks.
Western Edition Ritz Hospitality • 9
Ilwaco Heritage Museum MAKAH CULTURAL &
RESEARCH CENTER
T
he Ilwaco Heritage Museum flourished in this region for generations.
opened October 19, 1983 with a There is also the Exploration Gallery
small display of local historical that focuses on the maritime explorers
items. Since that time it has grown to be of the late 18th Century who were active
one of the important cultural institutions in our ports. In the museum courtyard
of southwest Washington. The Museum is located a rare narrow-gauge clearlight
is located just off U.S. 101 at 115 SE passenger coach from the Ilwaco Rail-
Lake Street in Ilwaco Washington. way and Navigation Company which
There was a ribbon cutting ceremony operated on the Long Beach Peninsula
on November 13 to celebrate the open- from 1889-1930. Because the IR&N
ing of a new exhibit called “Don’t never connected to any other rail line
Bother Me with the Facts: Uses and and connected with steamers on each Features ancient Makah artifacts,
Abuses of the Lewis and Clark Theme end, it could only be accessed at high full-scale replica of a long house,
in Popular Culture.” When you visit tide. The railroad’s timetable matched dioramas, and gift shop with art
this exhibit you will marvel at the va- the tide table changing by the hour for and basketry from Makah artists.
riety, chuckle at the vulgarity, thrill at six days then back six hours. It earned
the events, wonder at the natural history, the line the nickname the Clamshell Open daily 10 am - 5 pm
sigh at the romance and gasp at the com- Railroad, or the Railroad that Ran by (Memorial Day - Sept. 17)
mercialism. This is a very unique and the Tide. 10 am - 5 pm Wed. - Sun.
exciting exhibit created as part of the bi- The Ilwaco Heritage Museum store of- (Sept. 18 - Memorial Day)
centennial commemoration of the Lewis fers a variety of books, teaching tools POB 160
and Clark Corps of Discovery journey and items associated with regional his-
to the Pacific Coast. tory and industry, as well as books about
Neah Bay, WA 98357
In addition to the new exhibit, you will Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Dis- (360) 646-2711
learn about the Chinookan peoples who covery. www.makah.com
Ilwaco Heritage Museum
Walk in the footsteps of the Corps of Discovery
New Exhibit
“Don’t Bother Me with the Facts:
Uses and Abuses of the Lewis and Clark Theme
In Popular Culture”
A big city museum
in a small town.
An official site on
the National Lewis
and Clark Historic
Trail
Hours:
10:00-4:00 p.m.
Mon.-Sat.
Closed Sun.
Modest Admission is charged
10 • Ritz Hospitality www.ritzfamilypublishing.com
Continued from Page 8
Bitterroot Rivers as well as the Bitterroot port any cause for alarm. The village elders
Colville Confederated Mountains. Sacajawea and her husband decided to await their arrival.
Tribes then remained in the village while Clark
led his reconnaissance party to the Salmon
In the early evening the expedition
reached Salish Chief Three Eagle’s village
River. They explored it from its conflu- of considerable size, with 33 lodges, about
Museum & Museum Store ence with the North Fork of the Salmon 450 people and 500 horses. Once again
The Museum - shows a collection River to a point 16 1/2 miles downstream they were welcomed with the “national
of Indian Regalia.
The collection includes baskets, where prospects of using it to resume their hug” and fed. Because it was late, business
beadwork, moccasins, blankets and more. water journey were abandoned. The Salm- was postponed until the following day.
Museum Store - provides an outlet for local Indian artists on was far too treacherous to gamble their The journals referred to the people as
and craftspeople as well as books, cassettes, blankets, ect.
All merchandise is related to Indian culture.
lives on it. Flatheads, a name erroneously used, pos-
Hours: 10-6 daily; May - Dec., Mon. - Sat. Their route instead was to be by land, first sibly because of a sign language gesture,
(509) 633-0751 • Fax (509) 633-2320
512 Mead Way, Coulee Dam, WA 99116 traveling north across Lost Trail Pass to the because they had heard of Flatheads at
Bitterroot Valley [We-yah Ma-nungwa] of Fort Mandan, or perhaps because some-
western Montana, into the land of the Sal- one from the Chinook tribe on the Pacific
The Museum In The Heart Of The Gorge ish. They spent their last few days among Coast, where they did flatten their heads,
the Shoshoni trading for horses. Outma- was visiting at the time. However the
Columbia Gorge
neuvered by superior traders, they paid travelers were correct in observing and re-
Interpretive Center Museum dearly for the twenty-nine “sore backs... porting a linguistic difference between the
Lewis & Clark Expedition Water Route And
Oregon Trail. Impressive Setting For Business Or pore and young” horses. Cameahwait also Salish and Shoshoni people, even though
After Hour Events. World’s Largest Rosary Collection paid dearly. By staying behind a few more many other aspects of the two cultures
The Columbia Gorge Story Lives, days he further delayed his people’s trip were similar. This band was, in fact, about
Evolves And Continues... to Three Forks to hunt buffalo, a decision to travel east and share in the buffalo hunt
A Variety Of Educational Activities Are Offered, Phone:
that prolonged their dependence upon in- with the Lemhi Shoshoni at Three Forks;
(800) 991-2338 adequate food reserves. the two groups were very close.
To Pre-Schedule A Group For A Special Rate On August 30 the two groups finally On the morning of September 5, 1805
990 S. W. Rock Creek Drive parted company. The Corps of Discov- the Americans and Salish began trade and
Stevenson, WA 98648 ery, accompanied by Lemhi Shoshoni diplomacy. As with the Shoshoni, it could
guides, Old Toby [Tee-toby] and his son be conducted verbally instead of through
began their difficult journey north along sign language. A Shoshoni boy lived there
the North Fork River of the Salmon River and was able to connect the final link from
CRANBERRY MUSEUM and on to their destination. The Shoshoni English, to French, Hidatsa, Shoshoni and
& GIFT SHOP left to meet friends among the Salish and Salish. The people of this village proved to
continue east. be a most generous and kind hearted peo-
2907 Pioneer Road The Salish of Bitterroot Valley ple. For flags, medals and other trade stock
The valley of the North Fork of the Salm- the expedition exchanged healthy horses
Long Beach, WA 98631 on grew more narrow and steep as the for the spent beasts and purchased an ad-
(360) 642-5553 small party approached the pass. It snowed, ditional 14 horses. Lewis inquired about
rained and sleeted; the horses “were in Lolo Pass which lay ahead, for the Sho-
www.cranberrymuseum.com danger of slipping to their certain destruc- shoni had made it clear it was a difficult
Self Guided Tours • 8 am To Dusk tion,” [Clark] and the men broke their last route with limited game. The two captains
thermometer. To top it off Old Toby, for tended to believe if Nez Perce women and
Open Daily April-December unknown reasons, led the party three miles children used the trail, it probably wasn’t
off course. With the weather growing in- as treacherous as the Shoshoni led them to
creasingly worse, they crossed Lost Trail believe. For some reason the Salish lead-
Pass on the 4th of September and began ers told them it would only take 5 days to
their descent to the land of the Salish. cross, thus suggesting the captains were
As the strangers approached a beautiful correct in their assumption.
valley later known as Ross’s Hole, Three On the 6th the two groups parted compa-
Eagles spotted them while out scouting ny. With the Bitterroots looming ominous-
for raiding parties. He carefully watched ly to their left they continued north through
them, observing that they traveled without the valley to Lolo Creek. There they rested
A Regional Museum & Science Center
blankets and concluded they had either two days. Old Toby gave them informa-
Monday - Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m
Sunday, Noon-5 p.m. been robbed or, upon seeing York’s black tion about a more direct return route from
95 Lee Boulevard, Richland, WA face—no doubt painted for war—they that point, advising they use the Bitterroot,
Visit us at www.crehst.org must have lost the blankets in battle. He Clark’s Fork and Blackfoot Rivers to reach
Toll Free 1-877-789-9935 returned to his village to tell the people of Great Falls.
(in the Tri Cities call 509-943-9000) the approaching strangers, but didn’t re- From Traveler’s Rest to Lolo Pass: IntoWestern Edition Ritz Hospitality • 11
the Land of the Ni Mii Pu (Nez Perce) Today the trail parallels US Highway 12
Central Idaho is a sea of mountains and Lolo Creek from Traveler’s Rest to
Panhandlers
drained by forks of the Clearwater, Snake Lolo Pass. A few miles beyond the pass Restaurant
and Salmon Rivers. The variation in ter- it rises above the Lochsa Valley to crown Open at 7am • Seven days a week
rain, with extreme climatic changes from the ridges of the Bitterroots for the next 400 West Main Street
river valley to mountain peaks, rewarded 80 miles. The second day’s journey from (509) 382-4160
the Nez Perce people with abundant and Travelers Rest was a forewarning of what Panhandlers offers breakfast,
diverse resources, shelter, ample pasturage lay ahead. To avoid the brushy creek bot- lunch and dinner in a friendly
for their enormous horse herds, a defined tom, they moved along the hillside to the smoke-free environment. Fea-
turing pizza, video games for
territory, and a relatively easy seasonal life north of Lolo Creek, a road described by
the kids and daily specials,
cycle of hunting, gathering and food pro- Clark as being “very bad.” Two miles up the back room is available for
cessing. But the mountains also formed a the creek from their September 12 camp- functions, meetings or parties
north/south and east/west transportation site they came upon a number of small hot of any kind!
and communication barricade that lingers springs. They rested at Lolo Hot Springs
today. Because it has never been feasible and tested the waters. Gas reported the
to use the river valleys to cross that barri- water temperature was “considerably
cade, travel across the mountains was lim- above blood-heat” and Clark, upon tasting Corral Drive In
ited to a network of trails that penetrated it “found it hot and not bad tasted.” Clark The best out of the way place you
densely timbered, steep and rocky slopes also noted that Indians had made a “whole will ever find for variety & quality!
and ridges. Even when the weather sug- for a bathe” near one of the springs. Next 2506 Pacific Ave. • Long Beach, WA
gests summer in the valleys, the mountain June the springs were an eagerly antici- 360-642-2774
Summer Hours:
trails might easily be blanketed with deep, Sun. - Thur. 11-8pm
impassable snow. To begin crossing the Fri. - Sat. 11-9pm
mountains mid-September tempted fate;
to attempt again in early June, as the ex- DON’S OL’ Winter Hours:
11-7 Weekdays • 11-8 Weekends
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pated overnight campsite. there were beaver dams in the area, impor- stretch of their journey and their first con-
Several roads and animal trails led out tant information in light of the commercial tact with the Nez Perce people is one of
of the springs, confusing their guide Old aspect of the expedition. They continued to the most compelling chapters in the entire
Toby, who understandably might not have climb to the head of Lolo Creek and the episode.
known details of the route. He took them a mountain pass, then “through open glades, Reaching the main trail from the river
few miles east of the main trail. Clark noted Some of which [were] 1/2 mile wide” was a test of resolve. Once a horse fell;
[Packer Meadows]. They proceeded a few 8 or 10 men had to help him get up. On
miles along Glade Creek before camping. top the small party marched into the night,
A Great Beach Get Away! It was September 13, 1805. hoping to find water. Instead they found
Lolo Pass to Kamiah: Initial Contact snow, which they melted to drink and
Plenty To Do: with the Nez Perce [Ni Mii Pu] mix with their portable soup. Whitehouse
Beachcombing Toby again accidentally led them off the wrote he then “lay down contented.” but
Kite Flying main route, down a Nez Perce fishing trail awoke the next morning under a blanket of
Gift Shop to the Lochsa River. They selected a camp- snow. Travel conditions grew worse. The
site opposite a small island in the Lochsa road was terrible, the weather was terrible,
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near an unoccupied Indian fishery [Powell and they were hungry. Clark described it
(800) 867-3515 Ranger Station.] With rations severely de- best. “I have been wet and as cold in every
2959 State Rt. 105 pleted, and because “some of the men did part as I ever was in my life, indeed I was
Grayland, WA 98547 not relish this [portable] soup,” they killed at one time fearfull my feet would freeze
E-mail: Vadly442@aol.com a colt. The next morning they proceeded in the thin Mockierons which I wore.” A
www.kenannarv.com downstream an additional three miles be- second colt, “the most useless part of our
fore ascending Wendover Ridge to Lolo Stock...fell a Prey to our appetites.” Des-
Trail. It was apparent further travel along perate to find food and help, Clark and six
CRANBERRY the river valley was impossible. hunters pushed on ahead the morning of
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the 18th of September. Two days later and
eleven days from Travelers Rest, Clark’s
ADULT RV PARK and its Lochsa tributary, it seems as if the small party finally emerged from what Gas
valley has always been an ideal travel route. called “the most terrible mountains I ever
Quite the contrary, as Lewis and Clark dis- beheld.” They came upon three Nez Perce
covered. As soon as they corrected the er- boys in an open plain.
ror of Toby’s ill-chosen route their travels On the 22nd of September, 1805 Clark
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them, gave them small pieces of ribbon headed west. They were back in camp with that took the life of her child and would
and sent them to the nearest village. six guns, news about Lewis and Clark, and have killed her had she not come upon a
The boys came into camp wondering a desire for more guns and ammunition It party of white men. They helped her return
what “creatures” they had met. The men made sense to welcome them. An estab- to the Bitterroot country and to her people.
had “‘eyes like fish.’ They smelled and,lished trade with the Americans would Some members of the tribe wanted to kill
being bearded, one looked like he ‘had ensure a continued supply of arms, which Clark and his men but the words of Wetxu-
his face upside down.’ Were they human?became increasingly more important to the wiis stayed their hand.
Maybe half.” Nez Perce Chief Red Bear Nez Perce as it had with the Shoshoni and The Nez Perce also had a prophecy fore-
cautiously approached them and escortedSalish. telling the expediton’s arrival. “Maybe too,
them into the spacious lodge of Chief Bro-
But that was only part of the story. The these were the people about whom proph-
ken Arm. Clark could communicate only Nez Perce also tell us there was a woman ecy spoke. One day strangers would come
by sign, but learned Broken Arm was away
named Wetxuwiis in camp that day who with a paper. The paper would tell them
with the warriors. People gathered around
played a critical role in how the strangers that one day their name would go into a
them. Some of the older women exhibitedwere received. According to Chief Many book, but they knew not when. It might be
fear but many of the other people seemed
Wounds, Wetxuwiis was in a tent of the
pleased to see them. Clark could not ex-
first village and very ill. As soon as she
plain the mixed response. heard Clark speaking outside, she asked
From Nez Perce stories we learn many Many Wounds’ mother to lift the side of
things about that initial meeting, insights
the teepee so she could see out. She then
unknown to members of the expedition. announced: “That is the strange white peo-
They were expected. Among the native ple I have been telling you about...I have
people, news traveled as fast as a man seen them before, bring them here to me
could run and a runner named Tahoma quick.”
had already reached them and described Chief Red Bear went to Clark, took him
the men approaching the village. Also, un-
by the hand and into her teepee. “They
known to the Americans, three warriors of
shake hands and talk strange talk.” Then
Broken Arm’s band left that spring heading
Wetxuwiis spoke to her people, explain-
east to the Hidatsa people to buy guns. At
ing, “if you are good to them they will be
the same time the Corps of Discovery was
good to you and give you lots [of] things
like you never did
see before.” She told
the people to prepare
food for them, re-
counting her story of
being taken captive
in the Bitterroots and
traded from man to
man as far east as the
Great Lakes. Finally
she escaped with a
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the Bible, it might be an allotment book, for prophecy also said the On September 24 the expeditionary party left Weippe Prairie and
people would draw lines saying this is yours, this is mine. They proceeded down Jim Ford Creek to the Clearwater River. Lewis
also knew the people would make things that would go through the was so sick he could scarcely ride a gentle horse. They camped
air or crawl on the ground.” for the night on China Island. Chief Many Wounds believed they
Clark knew nothing about why the people in the villages wel- may have been afraid of the Nez Perce, suggesting that is why they
comed them. As with most of the journal accounts, the entry reads selected an island campsite. He added that perhaps the Nez Perce
almost as if he expected it. He and his men received generous serv- were also afraid of them.
ings of dried buffalo, salmon, and camas bread, all nutritious food The next morning Clark, Twisted Hair and his two sons headed
but a diet that did not agree with the starving explorers. They soon downriver. Searching for a canoe construction site on the south
suffered diarrhea and painful gas, afflictions that lingered for many bank of the Clearwater, where “Twisted Hair showed him which
days and ultimately struck the entire party. trees to cut.” It was a few miles downstream from Ahsahka, a ma-
Clark sent Private Reuben Fields back for Lewis and the main jor fishing village and winter camp, at the mouth of the North Fork
party. They reached the village September 22; and Clark joined which they called the Chopunnish River.
them that evening. He went ahead with Peo-Peo Tal likth, Red On the 27th of September the men, still suffering from the diet
Bear, Timothy [father and son] to find Chief Twisted Hair, who change, began construction on the canoes with axes “Small &
was fishing along the Clearwater River.13 Twisted Hair suspected badly Calculated to build Canoes of the large Pine.” The hunters
Clark was with the same party he met earlier at a Shoshoni camp searched for deer, elk or bear. Nez Perce visitors frequented the
and, before meeting Clark, he fixed himself up just as he was then camp, patiently watching the men struggle to shape the pines into
so they would recognize him. canoes with a “small, strange looking ax.”
He and the other chiefs returned to the Weippe Prairie to join The Nez Perce offered to show them a better method. First they
the rest of the expedition. They smoked “peace smoke” with the burned the log with pitch and dry grass, then chopped with an “In-
strangers and received their gifts, which included a Jefferson peace dian stone ax which is made from long black stone [obsidian].”
medal. To the Nez Perce gift giving verified the strangers’ human- Then they burned some more and chopped and repeated the pro-
ity. Twisted Hair drew them a map of regional rivers and agreed cess until the canoe was completed. “It took a long time and lots
to guide them west. On the 24th they left Weippe Prairie for the of hard work to make Indian canoes,” George Peo Peo Tal likth
Clearwater River, reaching it near Jim Ford’s Creek a few miles wrote.
east of present-day Orofino. They then prepared for the final leg of Because the hunters had been unable to find enough game to put
their long journey. meat in the diet they purchased and ate their first dog at Canoe
Orofino to Lewiston 1805 Camp. The Nez Perce had numerous dogs, which they agreed to
sell from now on, but to them eating dog was a disgusting practice.
George Peo Peo Tal likth said his mother was very sad because
Fish at Ilwaco here, at the mouth of Potlatch Creek, her father traded “one of her
fine dogs to kill and eat.” She cried and cried.
Pacific Salmon Charters, Inc On the 7th of October the Corps was ready to resume water travel
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a canister of powder and a bag of balls before setting out in their
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was “not so good as the other canoes they made” so the chiefs, who
accompanied the expedition down the Snake River used it to return
to the Clearwater valley.
The first day on the river took them over a number of difficult
rapids to a point 20 miles downstream, where they camped on the
north bank opposite Jack’s Creek [near the town of Lenore]. The
next morning they “hid” two canisters of powder, repaired leaks in
the canoes from yesterday’s rapids and proceeded downriver, now
accompanied by Twisted Hair and Tetoharsky, who remained with
them as guides as far as the great falls of the Columbia.
Call For Special Arrangements They passed numerous villages and fisheries, usually purchasing
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1-360-642-3466 vate Whitehouse noted that in the evening a number of Indians
came to visit them and “behaved with a great deal of friendship...”
1-800-831-2695 He said they belonged to the “Flatt-head Nation.”Western Edition Ritz Hospitality • 15
Chief Many Wounds tells a story about trieve the canoe and cargo. The continu- Later the village would be known as Chief
York that occurred some place along the ing journey ultimately brought them to the Timothy’s.
river. He said one chief walked up to York, confluence of the Clearwater and Snake Chief Many Wounds writes that Timo-
spit on one finger, and rubbed his finger rivers, the location of their namesake cit- thy (then an 11-year-old boy), his sister,
over York’s face. York was a little miffed, ies, Lewiston, Idaho and Clarkston, Wash- and parents had been visiting and getting
or maybe just pretended, but he grabbed a ington. Whitehouse said the wind from roots in the Clearwater Valley when the
butcher knife, “made much white in eyes” the west was blowing so hard they were expedition first arrived. His father helped
and looked fiercely at the chief. “Damn obliged to stop for the night. They camped them build canoes, then left with his fam-
you big china rooster you get out of here on the north bank about a mile below the ily before they were finished to go home
before I cut your tail feathers off,” [Chief confluence. Clark reported it was “worthe and make plans for their arrival.23 He was
Many Wounds obviously modernized the of remark that not one Stick of timber on perhaps disappointed that their stop was so
quote since there were no Chinese pheas- the river near the forks...” and Whitehouse brief. The following spring the expedition,
ants in the region at the time]. He wrote noted there were a number of fishing which was traveling by horse along a route
that Lewis and everyone else laughed, then camps along shore. that follows much of Highway 12, stopped
all the Nez Perce laughed, but the chief With the map in hand that Twisted Hair here. Chief Many Wounds wrote a number
was scared and ran away. drew on Weippe Prairie, the captains of times how taken young Timothy was
The next morning, October 9, 1805 the surveyed the land to the south. The map with Sacajawea.
captains learned that Old Toby and his showed Asotin Creek, the Grande Ronde Lewiston to Orofino 1806
son had departed in the night. Clark could River, Joseph Creek, Salmon River, and Members of the corps of Discovery con-
not understand why he did not receive his Imnaha River with the locations of winter tinued down the Snake River to the Co-
pay, but learned the next spring that each village sites and fishing camps noted along lumbia and on west to the Pacific Ocean.
had taken a horse from their herd to return each stream. Clark wrote about the Snake They spent a wet, miserable winter at Fort
home. Some speculate they were fearful of River [which he called Lewis’s River] that Clatsop and began their return trip the end
continuing on the river after yesterday’s it, “is the one we were on with the Snake or of March, 1806. Along the Columbia Riv-
accident. Others believe they were ap- So-So-nee nation..” He added that, “Lou- er they traded canoes for horses and con-
prehensive about being so deep into Nez ises River is navagable about 60 miles up tinued their eastward journey by land.
Perce country, for the two nations were not with maney rapids at which places the In- In May, 1806, they were again in Nez
always on friendly terms. Their Nez Perce dians have fishing Camps and Lodjes built Perce country, hungry and dependent upon
guides’ presence might have agitated that of an oblong form with flat ruffs.” dog, horse and any other food they could
concern. Early the next morning they continued
After spending the day repairing the ca- down the Snake River in Washington
noe and drying out the cargo the flotilla state. One last important stop among the
was ready to resume travel on the 10th. Nez Perce was at the mouth of Alpowai
One canoe hit a rock and capsized a few Creek, nine miles below the confluence.
miles downstream but with help from There they had breakfast, then purchased
nearby Nez Perce they were able to re- fish and seven dogs before departure.
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• Charming vintage home accessories16 • Ritz Hospitality www.ritzfamilypublishing.com purchase. Their need for food, in fact, Lochsa River to return to Lolo Trail. In the two days, May 10 - 11. It involved smok- frequently compromised polite behavior. spring of 1806 they were obliged to wait ing, gift giving, map drawing, and, from Nevertheless as they crossed the plain of in the valley over a month until the snow- Lewis’ perspective, patience. Each chief southeast Washington and ascended the covered Bitterroots became passable. With represented a separate political entity that Snake and Clearwater Rivers towards Ka- the exception of winter encampments at had an equal say in national politics. It took miah they repeatedly met old friends and Fort Mandan and Fort Clatsop this was time for each to weigh the consequences made new ones. Flint Necklace [Apash their longest association with any of the of his decision. On May 12 they cast their Wyakaikt whom they called Weark- native people. vote according to custom. Broken Arm koomt] met them near the present town of Although the journalists often missed “took the flour of the roots of cows [kouse] Pomeroy, Washington and continued with opportunities to observe and ask ques- and thickened the soope in the kettles and them to Kamiah. Lewis acknowledged that tions, thus failing to capture the depth of baskets of all his people...he concluded by the year before, when traveling by land the society, customs, and institutions that inviting all such men as had resolved to ahead of the canoes and telling other tribes held the society together for thousands of abide by the decrees of the council to come along the way the strangers were coming, years, their journals are rich with informa- and eat and requested such as would not that Flint Necklace was “very instrumental tion about the outward characteristics of be so bound to shew themselves by not par- in procuring us a hospitable and freindly the Nez Perce people and the country in taking of the feast.” reception...”. which they lived. They describe daily life, They voted unanimously to receive future They reached Alpowai Creek May 4th. hunting tactics, clothing, food preparation, American fur trading houses in their land There they were united with Tetoharsky, customs, games, even the practice of selec- and attempt a peace with their enemies. one of the two guides who last fall had tively breeding their horses. Red Bear and two other chiefs agreed to accompanied them to Celilo Falls on the The expedition approached Kamiah from guide them back across the mountains. Columbia,. Tetoharsky also joined them the west, traveling by horse along a ridge Later events proved that their word was on the ride to Kamiah. above the Clearwater Valley in the com- good. When the council was over every- The next day as they proceeded up the pany of a growing number of Nez Perce. one celebrated with feasts, singing, danc- Clearwater they came to a village near the On May [9] they reached Chief Broken ing, games playing, gambling, smoking mouth of the Potlatch River, where they Arm’s camp on Lawyer’s Creek, 3 1/2 and gift giving. met Cutnose [Neesh-ne-park-ke-ook]. miles upstream from the Clearwater River. On May 14 they left Broken Arm’s vil- Lewis described him as “one of the 4 prin- There they were greeted by “an impressive lage, continued down the creek to the cipal Cheifs of the nation...” and honored Nez Perce chief and his people, framed by Clearwater, and established camp on the his position by giving him a small Jeffer- a large mat lodge and an American flag left east side of the river below the mouth of son medal. (A Jefferson medal was found behind the previous year.” Lawyer’s Creek. There they remained un- at this location in 1899, only one of the Important chiefs arrived from many of til June 10. Although they never named two medals found west of the Continental the bands throughout the region, including the site, it has been remembered as Camp Divide.) After camping that night, May 5, chiefs Hohots Ilppilp from a nearby Clear- Choppunish [a word they used for the Nez near Cutnose’s camp they continued on the water band, Red Bear from the Salmon Perce], Long Camp or Camp Kamiah.. The next morning. River country, and Five Big Hearts from journals paint a vivid picture of the time They crossed the Clearwater River to the the Snake, among others. All together Corps members spent at Camp Choppun- south shore, continued upstream a few perhaps 4000 people assembled those few ish. Tribal oral and written histories tell the miles and then left the valley near Jacks’ days. Following Nez Perce protocol all of rest of the story. Both agree that relations Creek to an easier travel route. Continuing the headmen joined in a grand council. were amicable. across Big Canyon Creek near present day Chief Many Wounds tells us that everyone Chief Many Wounds wrote that the Nez Peck they ascended a gentle slope to the talked. “...Chiefs talk, Lewis talk, Clark Perce liked to watch Cruzatte sing and play divide between the Clearwater and Little talk, Twisted Hair talk, Red Bear talk, my the fiddle, they liked to watch York dance Canyon Creek. They proceeded along the father papa talk, Sacajawea talk, her white “with feet,” and watch the others dance so divide to Twisted Hair’s [walamOktdynih] husband talk, and all make presents to unlike traditional Nez Perce dance. He said camp where they collected the horses en- other people.” everyone was very sorry when “Lewis and trusted to his care the year before. Twisted Lewis took advantage of the council. Clark and Sacajawea and baby and York Hair and one of the corps men returned They needed provisions and guides. Most all go away....” to the Clearwater in the vicinity of Canoe important Jefferson had directed Lewis Clark had earned a reputation as a doc- Camp to retrieve the cached saddles, tack, to secure agreements with each tribe to tor the preceding fall while caring for an powder, and lead. They then proceeded on receive American fur posts in their land eye ailment that afflicted a large number to Broken Arm’s camp. and to establish peaceful relations with of people. When word spread that he was Kamiah in the Spring of 1806 their enemies. Those points Lewis had to back, people came from throughout Nez Kamiah, a bountiful valley drained by negotiate, which he fortunately could now Perce country to patiently await his help. Lawyer’s Creek and the Clearwater River, do through translators rather than sign. His medicines included sulfur, cream of is below the south and middle forks of the A Shoshoni boy was living with the Nez tartar, laudanum, and portable soup. Per- Clearwater and west of Wendover Ridge, Perce at the time. haps due to his healing help as much as his where the Corps of Discovery left the Council at Broken Arm’s village lasted amicable personality the Nez Perce people
Western Edition Ritz Hospitality • 17 genuinely liked Clark and fondly remem- Spanish Mill Dollar, or [Pillar Pieces next day, after heavy rain subsided, they bered him for generations. of Eight] had been the principal coin of began their eastward trek, proceeding “with One woman married him ‘Indian cus- commerce in the American colonies a much dificuelty” before camping on Eldo- tom” and traveled with him as far as the few decades earlier. According to Patrick rado Creek. Clark described an extensive Deer Lodge. There she came upon a Nez Gass, it came from the neck of a dead view to the south that encompassed Camas Perce hunting party and returned across Shoshoni whom the Nez Perce had killed and Nez Perce prairies, the Wallowa Moun- the mountains with them. Their baby, a some time before. tains and the Seven Devils Range. boy, had brown hair and “eyes like sky.” The next morning they proceeded to the They proceeded on up the creek the next She named him Clark.28 (In an irony of Salmon River, to a point Ordway esti- day. Travel was difficult, along both the history, his son died as a prisoner of war mated was about 20 miles upstream from creek and Willow Creek Ridge. Three in Oklahoma after the 1877 Nez Perce its juncture with the Snake River. They miles up the ridge they found themselves war.)29 York also became a father that were disappointed to learn that the salmon “invelloped in snow from 8 to 12 feet deep,” spring, but his child did not live to adult- run had not yet reached that far upstream. even on the south slopes. They could go hood. Their guides then directed them to a sec- no further. After caching unnecessary bag- Clark probably was happy to help the peo- ond fishery on Snake River. Back into the gage they returned to Weippe Prairie, their ple, although he was always quite humble Craig Mountains that rimmed the western first retrograde movement of the entire about his abilities, but he also used that help edge of Camas Prairie, across Wapshilla expedition. Geoge Drouillard and George to trade for food. All of the men, in fact, Ridge to a lodge, they then descended “a Shannon left in search of guides and re- spent their time among the Nez Perce in long hill and a run” to another larger lodge turned with Red Bear, grandfather to Chief search of food. The hunters primarily found and down “the worst hills we ever saw a Many Wounds. bear, grouse, ground squirrels but in woe- road made down” to the river. On June 24, 1806 the group again set fully inadequate amounts. The others were The fishery was “at the kimooenium or out to conquer the mountain trails. Chief told to make any agreements they could for Lewises river at a bad rapid” which was Many Wounds writes that at one point camas, kouse roots and kouse bread. The probably Cochran Island at the base of they encountered a large snow drift. His Nez Perce wanted knives, kettles, blankets, Cougar Creek. There was a “common grandfather showed Lewis how to “make and moccasin awls but with their trade house about 150 feet long and 35 feet wide, snow go fast” so they would not be further stock severely limited the men had to ne- made of split timber and flat on top.” The delayed. He “made a big fire to the brush gotiate with such things as buttons, empty next day the three men purchased salmon, and high trees” to melt the snow and clear containers, paint, thread, ribbon—anything but some young men “stole” most of it, the trail. They proceeded on the Lolo Trail, they could spare. From Kamiah small hunt- forcing them to remain one more day to reaching the hot springs on the 29th and ing and trading parties traveled throughout make a second purchase. Travelers Rest the 1st of July. the region. One crossed the prairie to Hells On May 31st they left the Snake, re- Return to St. Louis Canyon and the Snake River. crossed Camas Prairie to the Clearwater At Travelers’ Rest Lewis and Clark sepa- Hells Canyon River near the present town of either Stites rated. Lewis took a small party east toward During their quest for food, three expedi- or Kooskia a few miles upstream from the falls fo the Missouri; Clark and his men tion members ventured into what we today Kamiah Valley. What they had expected retraced their route through the bitterroot call Hells Canyon. The captains dispatched would be a two day trip took seven days. Valley and across the Divide to Three them to a fishery on the lower Salmon Riv- Most of the 17 fish were rotten by the time Forks. The groups reunited at the Yellow- er where they were to purchase salmon. they reached camp, but what was edible stone and Missouri confluence in mid-Au- On the 27th of May, under the guidance of was declared “extreemely delicious.” Two gust after six weeks apart, and proceeded three young Nez Perce men; Private John days after their return the captains ordered on down the Missouri River to today’s Ordway, Peter Wiser and Robert Frazer preparations be made to break camp and North Dakota. left Camp Choppunish and ascended Law- resume their eastward trek. The expedition reached the Mandan vil- yer’s Creek to the Camas Prairie. Finally, on June 10 with an inadequate lages on August 13, 1806. Since they no They spent the night at a village and con- food reserve but all invalids recovered, longer needed Toussaint Charbonneau and tinued the next day accompanied by two they resumed their travels. The Nez Perce Sacajawea as interpreters they released other Nez Perce men, crossed the prairie had repeatedly warned them that the snow them from service and paid Charbonneau on a Nez Perce trail that possibly passed was too deep beyond the Weippe Prai- the agreed-upon sum of $500.33. Travel between Mason Butte and Cottonwood rie, but they didn’t listen. The Clearwater downriver was quick, and the party passed Butte near the present community of Cot- River had been rising for several days and through present-day South Dakota, Ne- tonwood, then turned south to the Salmon they took that as “strong evidence that the braska, Iowa, Kansas, and into Missouri River. Traveling through scattered patches great body of snow has left the mountains.” by September 15. of snow, fallen timber and a severe thun- They left from Camp Choppunish up “hills On September 23, 1806, Clark wrote derstorm they descended a “bad hill down which are very high” to Lolo Creek and these words, “ . . descended to the Mis- a creek” [possibly Deer Creek] to a village traveled on to the eastern edge of Weippe sissippi and down that river to St. Louis at where they spent the second night. Prairie. which place we arived about 12oclock. we There Frazer traded an “old razer” to a There they remained through the 14th, at- Suffered the party to fire off their pieces as woman for two Spanish mill dollars. The tempting to build up their provisions. The a Salute to the Town.”
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