Retail Offer: In Stock - January 18, 2022 - Greetings Burgundy ...
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Retail Offer: In Stock – January 18, 2022
New in Stock from Bierzo: Bierzo: Verónica Ortega
Verónica Ortega was born and raised in Andalucía's sherry country, and the culture of
wine was in her blood from an early age. After learning her craft at some extraordinary
domaines in Burgundy (DRC, Comte Armand), the Northern Rhône (Combier), Central
Otago (Burn Cottage) and Spain’s Priorat (Clos Ersamus, Alvaro Palacios), she was ready
to start her own small domaine. She fell in love with the Atlantic climate and dramatic landscapes of Bierzo in
Spain’s northwest, and with some help from revered Spanish winemaker Rául Perez, she purchased 5 hectares
in Valtuille de Abajo, in the heart of the region. She mainly works with 80-year-old vines of mencía, the
region’s indigenous red grape, across diverse sites with a range of elevation and complex soil types, which she
farms biodynamically and harvests by hand. She has an obvious understanding of the fascinating, terroir-
expressive mencía grape, and masterfully captures the essence and character that each vineyard offers. Her
approach in the cellar is natural and experimental while respecting the classic techniques she picked up in
Burgundy. Her wines are mostly fields blends, with local white varieties co-fermented with mencía, and she
makes use ample use of natural whole cluster fermentation. Aging takes place in a mix of old barrels, large oak
vats, and amphorae, and the wines are bottled with a minimum of sulphur. These are fascinating, delicious
examples of a new generation of Spanish winemakers making delicate, complex, and transparent wines.
2020 Quite $35.50 (12/cs)
Mostly mencía, from vines averaging 80 years old, on iron-rich, sandy soils. Aged 7 months in a mix of used barrels, amphorae,
and wooden vats.
“This is a red that is perfect for the by-the-glass market: the 2018 Quite is light and perfumed and has the
Atlantic freshness of the 2018 vintage. It starts off a little reductive, and decanting it in advance could be a
good idea if you pull the cork any time soon. 2018 has been a slow-developing vintage—the wines are evolving
slowly, and this feels very young and tender. It's floral and elegant and has less alcohol than any other vintage,
so it's a little lighter and more delicate and subtle. They harvested slowly, the vinification process was paused
and the development of the wine quite slow. This has a velvety texture, but it always has structure, juicy berries
and very fine tannins.”
93 points Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, June 2020 (for the 2018 vintage; reviews for 2020 not yet available)
2020 Kinki $61.95 (6/cs)
“The 2019 Kinki is different from the 2018, as the red grapes were riper and had more aromatic influence, a
little wilder and with a saline twist. But there's better acidity here. It was bottled one week before I tasted it,
and the wine was showing well. It's a lot more serious than the initial 2018, which might have have been a little
radical. This feels more complex and has depth, clout and nuance. Surprisingly enough, there is more freshness,
too, and a more defined palate with more precision. I still see the similitude here, but in a more serious way,
with acid berries and an electric palate. This comes from a field blend of Mencía with perhaps 25% of mainly
Palomino, Godello and Valenciana in a very old vineyard in the village of Cobrana, where she also produces
her red Cobrana. The soils are rich in slate, and the vineyards are at high altitude, around 750 meters above sea
level. It fermented with 100% full clusters in an open-top 5,000-liter oak vat with all the grapes together and a
long maceration. It matured in used barrique and 800-liter clay amphora for eight months. The curiosity here is
that the élevage in amphora happened under a veil of yeast, like the flor from Jerez (most probably more like
the Jura) that further sharpened the wine.”
93 points Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, June 2020 (for the 2019 vintage; reviews for 2020 not yet available)
2
2018 Versión Original $63.40 (6/cs)
The review below is for the 2017 vintage, but Ortega has continued to use the steep, sandy vineyard described below for this wine,
and some of the 2018 was also aged in clay amphorae. Unlike in France, 2018 was a fairly cool vintage in this part of Spain.
“The 2017 VO Versión Original is different from previous vintages. This wine usually comes from a part of
the vineyards that are also used for the ROC, but because that part suffered frost in 2017, Verónica Ortega had
to find a new source for the wine. So, the 2017 is from a slope vineyard with sandy soils, the west side of the
Pieros from Tilenus. As the slope is quite steep, these vines escaped the frost. The wine was concentrated from
the low yields, and the structure called for aging in barrique for 14 months. It fermented with around 60% full
clusters, including some white grapes that are interplanted with the reds. It's quite spicier than the ROC, with
more bones and less meat; it's perhaps earthier and a little more rustic than ROC as well. This is quite serious
and has enough of everything to develop in bottle and stand up to powerful foods.”
93 points Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, June 2020 (for the 2017 vintage; reviews for 2018 not yet available)
2019 Cobrana $72.30 (12/cs)
Cobrana is from a vineyard on blue schist and clay at 750m. It is around 75% mencía, with the rest a mix of local white varieties
(godello, doña blanca, palomino). It fermented with 100% whole clusters, and aged for about a year in older barrels and amphorae.
“There was only one amphora and one barrique of the 2018 VO Cobrana, and it had a longer élevage, up to
15 months. This 2018 is more Burgundian, while the 2019 is more Rhôneish. It keeps the profile of the 2016,
with vibrant freshness, notes of acid berries, cassis and wild berries, very fine tannins and a very long aftertaste.
It's floral, fresh and easy to drink, delicious but with depth and complexity and surely aging potential. It's a
wine that can be drunk on its own and should also be very versatile with food. It's elegant and delicate. It's just
plain great.”
96 points Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, June 2020 (for the 2018 vintage; reviews for 2019 not yet available)
Champagne: Paul Bara
Champagne is in the blood of Chantale Bara and sister Evelyne Dauvergne, whose
family has been making wine since 1833 in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy, on the
Montagne de Reims. Bouzy’s south-facing slopes are famed for their beautifully ripe
pinot noir, which Chantale and Evelyne craft into fine, rich, and vinous Champagnes
(plus a bit of red wine!) in their deep chalk cellars. In addition to the 9.5 hectares of
pinot noir, the family also has 1.5 hectares of chardonnay planted in their grand cru vineyard, which helps add
finesse in the family’s blends. They also typically block malolactic conversion in their Champagnes, which gives
the wines ample tension despite their ripeness. As Champagne expert Peter Liem writes, “Paul Bara’s
champagnes are classic examples of Bouzy, with a full body and an ample, fruity ripeness thanks to pinot noir
grown on the village’s warm, south-facing slopes. At the same time they demonstrate an unusual refinement
and finesse, and despite the absence of malolactic, these champagnes are rarely aggressive—they tend to feel
velvety in their depth of fruit and seamless in their integration of components from beginning to end.” (from
Liem’s champagneguide.net)
NV Brut Réserve (1 case remaining) $80.50 (6/cs)
This wine is made from 80% Bouzy pinot noir and 20% Bouzy chardonnay for finesse. No malolactic conversion, over 5 years on
lees. This is 50% from a single vintage and 50% reserve wine.
“The NV Brut Réserve is a gorgeous wine full of Bouzy and Pinot Noir character. Ample and creamy in the
glass, with excellent breadth, the Brut Réserve is a terrific introduction to the house style. All the elements are
so nicely balanced.” 91 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2021
3
NV Grand Rosé Brut (1 case remaining) $89.30 (6/cs)
Unusually, this wine combines both of the methods used to make rosé in Champagne: saignée of pinot noir and the addition of red
wine (Bouzy rouge). There is also a small dose of chardonnay. This is 50% from a single vintage and 50% reserve wine.
“The NV Brut Grand Rosé is fabulous. Bright and punchy, the Rosé fleshes out beautifully in the mid-palate
and into the finish as the Pinot gains volume. The Grand Rosé has enough charm to drink well as an aperitif,
but there is serious depth here too. Cranberry, orange peel, dried rose petal and a hint of cinnamon develop
over time. The Grand Rosé is simply impeccable from start to finish. More importantly, it is absolutely
delicious.”
92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2020
2015 Bouzy Rouge Coteaux Champenois (2 cases remaining) $88 (6/cs)
This is a rare still red wine from Champagne, made entirely from Grand Cru pinot noir grown in Bouzy, which is the perhaps the
best village in the appellation for this style of wine. Prior to the ‘invention’ of the Champagne method to make sparkling wine, still
wines like this one were very well regarded and drunk by French royalty.
“Tasted blind. Dark garnet colour – looks quite healthy. Sweet, fruity nose that is recognisably Pinot. Juicy and
complete, this is a well-constituted red wine which still has something to give. A little dry on the end, it would
drink well with a meal now. (And if you had been tasting champagne all day, you would fall on it with
pleasure.)” 16 points, Jancis Robinson, JancisRobinson.com, November 2020
Vouette & Sorbée
Bertrand Gautherot of Vouette & Sorbée is an ultra-committed biodynamic grower in
the Aube, the southern satellite of Champagne. He began working with vines in 1986,
but didn't release his first wines until 2001. He keeps cows and chickens on his farm to
supplement his biodynamic preparations, and the soils in his 5 hectares of vineyards
teem with life. The soils here are similar to those in and around Chablis, with a complex
mix of Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone. The winemaking is very minimalist by
the standards of Champagne; he presses very slowly and carefully, and primary fermentations take place with
indigenous yeasts in old wood. The highly technical winemaking interventions that are common in Champagne,
such as acidity adjustment, chaptalization, and heavy filtering are totally absent here, as Gautherot likes to treat
the wines as simply as possible. None of the wines have any dosage added at disgorgement, so everything here
is 'brut nature', and a bare minimum of sulphur is added. These Champagnes have tonnes of personality; the
minimalist winemaking perfectly complements the ripe, expressive Aube fruit to give wines with lots of
intensity, tension, detail, and pure deliciousness. Gautherot’s reputation as an icon of biodynamics and
minimal-intervention winemaking Champagne is richly deserved.
NV Fidèle Blanc de Noir Brut Nature (R18) $118 (6/cs)
100% Pinot Noir grown on Kimmeridgian marl, mostly from the Biaunes and Fonnet vineyards. Mainly 2018 vintage, with 5%
solera-aged reserve wine. Over two years on the lees and bottled without dosage. Disgorged 21-01-21.
“The amber-colored NV Brut Nature Fidèle is gorgeous. Lifted, precise and nuanced throughout, the Fidèle
possesses a captivating aromatic. Medium in body and tense in style, the Fidèle is super-expressive today. It
could use another year in bottle to soften a bit, but it is nevertheless striking.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, July 2017 (for lesser 2014 vintage)
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NV Blanc d’Argile Blanc de Blanc Brut Nature (R17) $153 (6/cs)
100% Chardonnay from the cooler, west-facing Biaunes Vineyard on Kimmeridgian limestone. Officially a non-vintage wine, but
all from 2017 fruit. 2.5 years on the lees and bottled without dosage. Disgorged 17-05-20.
“The NV Brut Nature Blanc d'Argile is terrific. Vinous and rich on the palate, as these Champagnes are, offers
a striking interplay of fruit intensity and tension from the non-dosage style. With time in the glass, the wine
gains precision and energy.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, July 2017 (for 2013 vintage)
Chablis: Domaine Gueguen
Young, talented Frédéric and Céline Gueguen represent the highly experienced new generation
of rising star vignerons in Chablis. Frédéric made wine for 15 years between Domaine Jean
Durup and Jean-Marc Brocard. Céline worked with her father Jean-Marc Brocard for 13 years
managing the estates’ affairs. Frédéric and Céline serve as Chairs of the Chablis Growers
Association and Federation of the Defence of the Appellation of Chablis; their dedication to
the wines and uniqueness of the region is inspiring. Chez Gueguen fruit from each of 35
individual sustainably farmed parcels spread out over 23 ha is sorted and blended based on individual character.
Yields are severely limited to increase the wines concentration, and the vines have been cultivated using organic
methods for many years. The estate carries out harvesting in small crates for gentle fruit handling, followed by
rigorous sorting prior to slow, gentle pressing. The juice is then left to settle for twelve hours prior to being put
in to vats to start the alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Without any wood-ageing, the style of
Chablis crafted is a precise and aromatic expression of terroir: clean, fresh and pure wines.
2020 Bourgogne Côtes Salines $27.50 (12/cs)
"A slightly fresher nose reflects notes of mineral reduction and citrus rind. The racy and solidly intense middle
weight flavors possess a lovely underlying tension before culminating in a reasonably complex and lengthy
finale. This too offers fine quality for its level and is also a wine that should drink well shortly after release.”
♥ 87 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, October 2021
Côte de Nuits: Marchand-Tawse
“I’ve had a lot of fun over the past 10 years working closely with Pascal Marchand and our team to define the
style of Marchand-Tawse wines. I am excited to report that our wines have developed great levels of intensity,
while maintaining the excellent balance and transparency of terroir that we work for. Part of the reason for
this, is our steadfast work in the vineyards, and commitment to organic and biodynamic farming.”
Moray Tawse
2016 Côte de Nuits-Villages (1 case remaining) $56 (12/cs)
"A slightly fresher nose reflects notes of mineral reduction and citrus rind. The racy and solidly intense middle
weight flavors possess a lovely underlying tension before culminating in a reasonably complex and lengthy
finale. This too offers fine quality for its level and is also a wine that should drink well shortly after release.”
♥ 87 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, October 2021
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Côte de Beaune: Domaine Jean-Marc & Hugues Pavelot
The Pavelot family have deep roots in Savigny-lès-Beaune, having grown vines there for over
two centuries. The young and extremely talented Hugues Pavelot is now running the domaine
and maintaining – perhaps even exceeding – the high quality standards set by his father Jean-
Marc. As Neal Martin, the Burgundy reviewer for Vinous recently wrote, “I have said it
before, and I say it again: Pavelot is probably making the best wines in Savigny-lès-Beaune at the moment.”
They have an impressive collection of vineyards in Savigny and neighbouring villages, and they make excellent
and affordable village and Bourgogne wines too. They harvest ripe fruit from healthy, living vineyards where
grass is allowed to grow between the rows, and nurture the many old vines in their holdings. In the cellar, they
began fermenting with a modest proportion of whole clusters in some recent vintages, and allowed to ferment
with indigenous yeasts in concrete, stainless, or wood, depending on the site. Use of new oak is limited to small
percentages, mainly for the premier crus. These wines have beautifully pure, site-expressive fruit, layers of
earthy and stony complexity, and an elegant structure that makes them outstanding candidates for aging.
2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Guettes 375ml $46.15 (12/cs)
“The 2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Guettes 1er Cru offers more terroir expression and complexity than the
Les Serpentières at the moment. This is very detailed, displaying touches of graphite filtering through the black
fruit. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity. A little compact now, but there is a sense of
symmetry toward the finish that is compelling. This comes highly recommended.”
91-93 points, Neal Martin, Vinous, January 2019
Mâcon and Beaujolais Blanc: Jules Desjourneys
Fabien Duperray, the mind behind the Jules Desjourneys wines, is a relative newcomer to
Beaujolais and the Mâconnais. He came from Burgundy, where he worked as a successful
merchant of some of the top domaines for many years. Having worked with the likes of
DRC and Coche-Dury, his passion grew to become a winemaker himself. His estate in
Beaujolais is nearly 7 hectares, with no vines under 65 years old and the oldest parcels well
over 100 years old, and he works with old vines in a prime swathe of the southern
Mâconnais as well. Although he is certified organic, Fabien actually practices biodynamic viticulture, obsessing
about every detail in the vineyards with unbelievable precision, with everything done by hand. The reds are
super deep and very fine, nothing like the Beaujolais that we are familiar with. They have a depth of
concentration and intensity, yet with exquisite harmony and balance. The reds are reminiscent of 1er crus from
the top villages of the Côte de Beaune or some Côte de Nuits villages like Nuits-St.Georges or Morey-St.-
Denis, while the whites would fit neatly in to a flight of very good 1er Cru Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet. In
short, these are startlingly fabulous wines.
2017 Beaujolais-Villages Blanc (1 case remaining) $49.40 (12/cs)
Beaujolais blanc is often made into a very modest wine, but Duperray’s transcends the genre with his careful vineyard and cellar
work. This one is grown on granite soils and vinified without oak, and produces a smoky, stony wine with citrus and spice.
“The 2017 Beaujolais-Villages Blanc confirms its terrific showing last year, offering up lovely aromas of
honeycomb and crisp green orchard fruit. Medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, it's elegantly textural, racy
and concentrated, concluding with a mineral finish. Unlike most examples of the appellation, it's improving
with bottle age, though that should hardly be a surprise given its haute couture élevage.”
91 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate, May 2020
6
Beaujolais: Guy Breton
Guy Breton’s domaine covers a mere 7 hectares of vines, most of which are in the appellation
of Morgon, with smaller parcels in Régnié, Chiroubles, and Côte de Brouilly. These are nearly
all very old vines, particularly in Morgon, where they can reach 120 years of age. In the late
1980's, Guy joined a small group of forward-thinking vignerons who followed the traditionalist
oenological teachings of Jules Chauvet (the famous ‘Gang of Four’). At this time of hyper
industrialization and homogenized flavours, Chauvet, a chemist by training, espoused
techniques focused on creating wines of purity and transparency of terroir, achieved through organic farming,
with zero additions and minimal interventions in the winemaking process. Breton uses partial carbonic
maceration, spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts and no chaptalization. His wines age in old foudres
and three-year-old Burgundy barrels for 6-8 months before being bottled unfiltered and unfined. A lack of
sulphur except minimal doses at time of bottling is a hallmark of this form of natural winemaking. Of all the
‘Gang of Four’ Beaujolais producers who helped start the natural wine movement in France, Breton's wines are
perhaps the most pure, delicate, and just plain drinkable of the bunch, without sacrificing any complexity.
2020 Régnié $42.85 (12/cs)
From vines Breton inherited from his grandfather, some of which are 100 years old. Semi-carbonic maceration, indigenous yeasts, 6
months in well-used barrels, bottled with minimal sulfur and no fining or filtration.
“Vivid ruby-red. Aromas of fresh red and blue fruits, candied flowers and baking spices take on a smoky
mineral flourish with air. Finely detailed and appealingly sweet, offering juicy boysenberry and raspberry flavors
and emerging floral and mocha nuances. The floral note carries through a very long, lively finish framed by
discreet, even tannins.”
92 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, August 2021 (For the similar 2019 vintage)
2020 Morgon Vieilles Vignes $49 (12/cs)
This is the most important wine of the state, from vines averaging 85 years old vines in the Grand Cras and Saint Joseph subzones
of Morgon. Semi-carbonic maceration, indigenous yeasts, 6 months in well-used barrels, bottled with minimal sulfur and no fining
or filtration.
“Dark magenta. Assertive red and blue fruit and potpourri aromas are complicated by exotic spice, potpourri
and smoky mineral accents. Finely detailed, mineral-driven raspberry, boysenberry, Asian spice and candied
lavender flavors deepen with aeration while maintaining vivacity. Sappy, seamless and sharply focused on the
impressively long, minerally finish, which is framed by polished, well-knit tannins.”
94 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, August 2021 (For the similar 2019 vintage)
Jura: Domaine de la Borde
Julien Mareschal trained in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking over 3.5ha of very well-
tended vineyards in Pupillin, in the viticultural heart of the Jura. He worked his vineyards in
the “lutte raisonné” method in the beginning, but since 2009 he began converting to
biodynamic viticulture after seeing the benefits of the methods for his neighbours, among
them Domaine Pierre Overnoy. His vines are now 30 - 35 years old, planted to Ploussard,
Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Chardonnay and Savagnin. His devoted biodynamic vineyard management practices
express the purity of these varieties through his various plots. Julien Mareschal’s natural approach is carried
over to his winemaking ethos, where native yeast fermentation and ageing take place in large old neutral barrels
(1500 litres), and some concrete eggs. Aging continues on the lees for up to 24 months, and wines are not fined
or filtered prior to bottling, and only a minimum of sulfur is added for some wines, and none at all for others.
All of these steps combine to produce an incredibly pure and transparent range of wines.
7
2018 Arbois Pupillin Foudre à Canon Naturé $64.90 (6/cs)
100% Savagnin “ouillé” (“topped-up” style), from grey and blue marls exposed west, steep vineyard at 350m to 450m asl.
“The 2016 Arbois Pupillin Savagnin Ouillé Foudre A Canon Nature was aged for two years in foudre before it
was bottled, yet the wine doesn't feel oaky or evolved. In fact, it feels young and tender, fresh and floral, clean
and tasty. This is a lighter style of Savagnin.”
91 points, Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, June 2019 (for the 2016 vintage)
2016 Arbois Pupillin Les Écrins $78 (6/cs)
100% Savagnin “sous voile,” aged under flor for nearly four years for an oxidative style. Grey and blue marls exposed, steep, and
west, at 350m to 450m.
“The pure Savagnin 2013 Arbois Pupillin Savagnin les Ecrins aged three years under a veil of yeasts in old 228-
liter barriques. Julien Mareschal told me that if you want to make Vin Jaune, you always have to make a barrel
selection, as not all barrels have the character and quality of the Vin Jaune, and so you have to make another
veil wine. And that's what his Les Ecrins is. It's a mini vin jaune, the little brother, with the same character but
without the power, concentration, depth and complexity of the Vin Jaune. […] I really like this.”
92 points, Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate, December 2017 (for the 2013 vintage)
Loire Valley: Domaine François et Julien Pinon
While there are now five generations of winemaking history at this leading Vouvray estate,
the modern history began with François Pinon in the late 1980s, when he took over from
his father after a career in child psychology. The domaine is located in the Vallée de Cousse,
well northeast of many of Vouvray’s other famous vineyards and names, but over the course
of his career François managed to build a reputation for some of the appellation’s finest and
most classic wines. His talented son Julien took a leading role at the estate in recent years,
and is now carrying on his father’s work after François very sadly passed away in early 2021. With the
exception of one tiny parcel of red grapes, chenin blanc is the grape variety planted in the Pinon’s many small
vineyard parcels, which have been certified organic since 2011. The chenin blanc is pressed whole bunch, and
allowed to ferment with indigenous yeasts in wooden vats. The still wines age for varying lengths of time in old
wood, and the wines with significant residual sugar are given a light filtering before bottling to avoid the need
for large quantities of sulphur. The range of still wines runs from bone dry to lusciously sweet, depending on
the vintage. The traditional method sparkling wines – a specialty here – are given extended stays on their lees in
bottle. Across the range, these are remarkably expressive wines that carry the essence of chenin blanc, with
pure, crystalline fruit, pinpoint balance, and loads of earthy complexity that deepens with time in bottle.
2020 Rosé P étillant Naturel Brut $36.50 (12/cs)
From a tiny parcel of red vines, some of which were planted by Julien’s grandfather to provide red wine for the vineyard workers.
“This is a blend of 50% Côt and 50% Grolleau, from a tiny parcel of red vines. The fruit is fermented by
indigenous yeasts, and vinified without added sulphites, and the finished wine has 4 g/l sugar. This is an early
disgorgement for the Salon des Vins de Loire. The aromatics are all perfumed peach and tangerine, while the
palate has a beautifully fresh character, all fragrant fruit, raspberry and strawberry, with bright acidity and a
fresh, focused pétillance. Gripped and bright, and always a pleasure.”
91-93 points, Chris Kissak, The Wine Doctor, February 2020 (for the similar 2019 vintage)
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Michel Redde et Fils
The Redde family have been growing and making wine in Pouilly-sur-Loire since 1630,
with each successive generation pushing the boundaries of what this appellation and the
sauvignon blanc grape can produce. The estate employs biodynamic practices and is in the
process of pursuing organic certification. Their artisanal sauvignon blancs are fermented
and aged in mix of large demi-muid and foudre barrels and stainless tanks, with long aging
on lees. The family has focused on single vineyard bottlings, starting in 1973 with
Majorum, and most recently the 14th generation launched Barre à Mine, meaning crowbar, the main tool
needed to plant the vines in a very silex-heavy parcel acquired in 2009. Across the range, the wines show
incredible density and poise, with crystalline fruit, beautiful balance, and rich minerality.
2018 Pouilly-Fumé La Moynerie $39.70 (12/cs)
Sauvignon blanc from 20-25 year old vines, vinified and raised in 60% stainless with 40% in large, older oak foudres and demi-
muids. Aged for 6 months on fine lees. Expressive of the density and aromatic mineral, saline purity of its terroirs.
“A gorgeous, almost Burgundian expression of sauvignon blanc. Showcasing characteristic minerality common
to the variety/region. Flinty, chalky and notably salty. Seafood friendly but also with notable depth and
substance. Compelling.”
93 points, Sara d’Amato, Wine Align, May 2021
2019 Pouilly-Fumé Les Champs des Billons $71.25 (6/cs)
This wine is sourced from an extremely chalky vineyard on ‘caillottes’, or Oxfordian limestone.
“The 2019 Pouilly-Fumé Les Champs des Billons is a round and full-bodied effort that retains a tenderness
through the palate. The delightful gourmand texture derives from both limestone influence and extended time
on lees, which also imbues an almond-like note. This has excellent concentration thanks to low yields, with
large-format oak vinification and maturation rounding its edges…”
91 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, August 2021
2019 Pouilly-Fumé Barre à Mine $90.30 (6/cs)
The family converted an old quarry into the Barre à Mine vineyard, where the vines are planted in Kimmeridgian limestone marl
interspersed with flint. The name of the vineyard refers to the crowbars that were needed to plant vines in this extremely stony site.
Fermented and aged in large barrels and foudres, with no malolactic conversion.
“The vineyard is an old flint quarry in Tracy-sur-Loire near the Château de Tracy, with superficial and deep
flint with some sand and a touch of clay, whereas the Bois de Saint-Andélain vineyard has more clay. It was
vinified in a combination of large barrels and demi muids, as is the case for all these single-vineyard wines. It
presents a wonderfully pure, pungent, filigree and citrus fruit character. The palate is creamed, with wonderful
substance and freshness, textured with lots of grip and a really striking acid profile. A charming style, fresh,
pure and bright, but also honest and complete. Top notch.”
96 points, Chris Kissack, The Wine Doctor, February 2019 (for the 2017 vintage)9
Northern Rhône: Domaine Barou
Domaine Barou is a wonderful small estate in Charnas, run by Emmanuel and Marie-Agnès
Barou. As was often the case in the past in the Northern Rhône – and still is chez Barou – this
was a polyculture farm where stone fruit and other crops were grown in addition to grapes. In
the 1970’s Emmanuel’s father decided that his cherries tasted much better when they weren’t
sprayed with chemicals, and began the conversion to organic growing for all of his crops, grapes
included. The domaine received organic certification in 1975, long before it became popular, and
the farming on their shallow granite soils and steep slopes has been excellent ever since, with
cover crops between the rows, minimal plowing, and avoidance of even most organic-certified treatments
against mildew. They now employ some biodynamic practices as well. Altogether they farm 10 hectares, of
which 3 hectares are in the northern sector of Saint-Joseph, 1 in Condrieu, and the rest Vin de Pays on
unusually good terroirs. Syrah is the star grape variety here, but they make excellent whites and reds from other
varieties as well in small quantities. In the cellar, the hand-harvested grapes are treated minimally, with 12 hours
on skins for most of the whites before wild yeast fermentation begins. The reds are fermented with varying
proportions of whole clusters and age in tank or used barrels, depending on the cuvée (only their top Saint-
Joseph sees some new oak). Minimal amounts of sulfur are added to the wines at bottling. These are beautifully
expressive, classic expressions of syrah and other local grapes, and across the range they offer great value.
2020 Le Sud Saint-Joseph Blanc $40.75 (12/cs)
Half marsanne and half roussanne, with 10-12 hours of skin maceration before pressing. Fermented and aged 9 months in
barrels, mostly used.
“Light, shimmering yellow. Ripe orchard and pit fruit aromas are complicated by suggestions of lemon pith
and honeysuckle. Fleshy and seamless in texture, offering juicy pear and white peach flavors underscored by a
smoky mineral element. Shows very good power and floral lift on the clinging finish, which echoes the pear
and lemon notes.” 91 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, May 2020 (for the similar 2018 vintage)
Bernard Levet
Founded four generations ago in 1936, Bernard Levet and his wife Nicole took over her
father’s life’s work by expanding the vineyard holdings and cellar capacity to enable domaine
bottling of their Côte-Rôtie. The winery is now run by their daughter Agnès Levet. The
family owns just 3.5 ha of meticulously farmed vineyards in excellent locations, including old
vines in La Landonne. Lovers of pure, floral, and perfumed syrah take note! If you know,
enjoy, or are simply interested in producers such as Gentaz-Dervieux, Raymond Trollat, and
J.L. Chave, you will love the traditional, unadulterated wines of Bernard Levet.
2019 Condrieu $107.40 (6/cs)
This is the first vintage of Condrieu from the domaine, and it comes from a tiny 0.3 ha plot of viognier planted on granite. The
wine fermented in stainless and aged in barrel for 10-12 months.
“Straw yellow color with green nuances, sparkling and limpid, with a certain density. The nose is both typical of
viognier and racy, we have a successful marriage between fruits (peach, quince and apricot) to notes of small
white flowers (acacia, linden and hawthorn) but also candied lemon. Aeration enriches the wine with scents of
spices, mead and beeswax. There is a certain purity in this nose. Very pretty on the palate, with an ample, full,
enveloping and very fragrant attack. We find the gourmandise of the fruit but also the floral side that gives
elegance. In the mouth we have weight which is counterbalanced by a chiseled freshness of the first order. It is
certainly a wine with power and great youth, but also finesse. It is the archetype of a young, taut and tense
viognier but it will come together and improve over time. Nice finish between citrus fruits, a hint of almond
but also just a touch of honey.” 93 points, Guide DVE, 2020 (translated from French)10
2018 Côte-Rôtie Améthyste (1 case remaining) $109.60 (6/cs)
2018 Côte-Rôtie Améthyste MAGNUMS (2 remaining) $214.70 (6/cs)
Made from 100% serine, a thicker-skinned, ancient, and more aromatic sub-variety of syrah in the über-traditional, submerged
cap method, and raised in neutral demi-muids (double barriques).
“An expansive bouquet evokes ripe black/blue fruits, potpourri and olive paste, and a mineral flourish lends
vivacity. Shows impressive depth and energy on the palate, offering sharply focused blueberry, cherry preserve,
spicecake and candied violet flavors supported by a spine of juicy acidity. Shows an appealingly light touch for
its heft, and finishes on a gently tannic note, displaying fine delineation and firm mineral thrust. 70% whole
clusters; raised in demi-muids, most of them neutral.”
93-94 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, May 2020
2018 Côte-Rôtie Maestria (1 case remaining) $146.90 (6/cs)
In France and all other countries except the USA, this wine is labeled as Maestria. In the USA, it is labelled Les Journaries,
which is the original name for La Landonne, the lieu-dit in the Côte Brune that contributes 70% of the fruit for this wine.
“An intensely perfumed nose displays mineral-accented black/blue fruit and floral pastille scents that pick up
olive paste, bacon and exotic spice notes with air. In a concentrated yet energetic style, offering appealingly
sweet cherry, blueberry, licorice, spicecake and candied lavender flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity.
Shows outstanding clarity and mineral thrust on a wonderfully long, floral-accented finish shaped by fine-
grained, slow-building tannins. 70% of this fruit comes from La Landonne and the rest is from Côte Blonde.
Outside of the US, this bottling is called “Maestria.” All whole clusters; raised in mostly neutral demi-muids.”
95-96 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, May 2020
Languedoc: Château Vieux Moulin
Though Château Vieux Moulin has been producing wine in the sunbaked, windy terroir of
Montbrun des Corbières for two centuries, big changes are taking place under the
leadership of seventh generation winemaker Alexandre They. The estate’s 28 hectares of
vineyards were already managed along traditional lines, but under Alexandre they are
farmed according to a strict organic regimen, and are now fully certified. He has placed a
particular emphasis on carignan, a grape that was once considered rustic and
unfashionable, but with Vieux Moulin’s old vines and gentle winemaking, produces wines dripping with spicy
character and juicy red fruit, and framed by bright natural acidity. In the cellar, he takes a fairly hands off
approach: the grapes are destemmed but not crushed, so the wild yeast fermentation begins with whole berries
intact. Both fermentation and aging take place in cement vats, and are bottled either with a minimum of sulfur,
or none at all. These are wonderfully hearty wines, with rich fruit balanced by plenty of savoury and floral
character, and structure that makes them a great match for wintry food.
2019 Natura Soli VdF $34.95 (12/cs)
Old-vine carignan fermented with whole berries and aged in cement with no SO2 added. This could not be labelled as Corbières as
it is over the 50% maximum allowed for this grape in the appellation.
A truly brilliant expression of old-vine carignan, this wine is aromatically engaging with earthy, viney, deep red
fruit. This replays on the palate with incredibly pure, juicy fruit, balanced by very fine supporting acidity and
firm tannins. Amazingly elegant with tons of purity, and plenty of Corbières terroir character.
Daniel Beiles11
Piemonte: Giuseppe Cortese
Giuseppe Cortese founded this estate in 1971 atop the grand hill of Rabajà in Barbaresco.
He was the first to estate bottle allowing him to maintain the highest quality from grape to
glass. The winery is perched above the Rabajà Cru, where they are the largest holders of
land at 4ha. The wines made here are critically acclaimed, traditional expressions of their
stunning terroir. Still family owned and operated, the estate is now run by Giuseppe’s
children Pier Carlo and Tiziana, and son-in-law Gabriele. The winemaking leans traditional,
with minimal handling, slow natural fermentations and aging in large casks.
2019 Barbera d’Alba $27.40 (12/cs)
“The 2019 Barbera D’Alba has floral aromatics of violets, oregano, and black raspberry. The palate is juicy up
front, with a tangy lift of red plum, cocoa, and dusty earth. Fresh, with classic ease, the 2019 Barbera is perfect
for the table or casual gatherings.”
88 points, Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com, May 2021
2018 Langhe Nebbiolo $38.15 (12/cs)
“This is elegant, with fine intensity to the cherry, strawberry, rose and earth flavors. Accents of licorice and
tobacco chime in as this red builds to a firm, gripping finish. Fine balance.”
90 points, Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator, April 2021
Barale Fratelli
Founded in 1870, The Barale Fratelli Estate is a traditional Piedmontese
powerhouse. Now managed by Gloria and Eleonora Barale, daughters of
Sergio, Azienda Agricola Barale produces wines that are known for their
soaring aromatics and intensity, resulting from organic farming and innovative
winemaking. The family produces wines in Monforte d’Alba (Giovanni and
Bussia); Barolo (Cannubi, Costa di Rose, Monrobiolo and Preda); and Neive (Serraboella). The Barale ethos is
simple and upholds the traditions of their beloved region. Exemplifying this, in 2012, their new project
Progetto Indigeno is a research initiative to culture native yeasts- always used for winemaking, but now selected
for the Barale vinicultural program. Marrying all aspects of the Barale style, the resulting wines are refined,
complex and steadfastly traditional.
2019 Barbera d’Alba Castlè $31.50 (12/cs)
Destemmed, indigenous yeasts, temperature control, 7 days of maceration-fermentation on the skins with frequent pump-overs.
“The 2019 Barbera d'Alba Castle is a deep, fleshy wine. Succulent black cherry, mocha, spice and licorice are all
kicked up in this evidently extroverted, lush Barbera from Barale. Soft contours and a long, silky feel add to its
considerable appeal. This is beautifully done.”
92 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous, September 2021
2019 Langhe Nebbiolo $38.50 (12/cs)
Indigenous yeasts, organically farmed, 10 day maceration-fermentation in large botti, one year in 500L tonneaux.
"This is a wine with a nose and palate of intense robustness, with red fruits notes; floral hints of rose, violet
and wisteria." Barale Fratelli12
2016 Barolo Castellero $109 (6/cs)
This comes from southwest-facing, organically-farmed vines from this small Barolo Cru tucked between Bussia and Cannubi.
Indigenous yeasts, 30 days maceration and fermentation in wooden vats, and three years in 1500-3000L casks. Bottled unfined
and unfiltered.
“New leather, camphor, tobacco and fragrant purple flower are just some of the aromas you'll find on this
fragrant, focused red. The delicious palate features juicy red cherry, crushed raspberry, baking spice and truffle
while taut polished tannins provide seamless support. Fresh acidity keeps it youthful and balanced. It's already
showing beautifully but will also offer years of pleasure.”
96 points, Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast, September 2020
Fratelli Alessandria
The Alessandria family has been making wine in Barolo’s Verduno commune since
1870. With support from his parents and uncle, 6th generation winemaker Vittore
Alessandria is now firmly in charge, and acclaim for these exquisite traditional wines is
growing rapidly. Part of the reason for the excitement among reviewers and Barolo-
lovers is their privileged location in Verduno. This small commune at the northern edge
of the Barolo zone produces dramatically aromatic, elegant wines with distinctive floral
and spice tones, and the commune’s south-facing Monvigliero vineyard, cooled by the
nearby Tanaro River, is now recognized as one of the very finest in the appellation. Verduno is also the source
of pelaverga, a rare native grape that makes distinctively spicy, juicy, and joyous lighter reds. The winemaking is
clean but resolutely traditional, with natural fermentations, long macerations, and aging in large 40 hectolitre
casks, before bottling without fining or filtration. These new releases are standouts; as Antonio Galloni of
Vinous wrote, “Vittore Alessandria's 2017 Barolos are among the finest wines of the vintage. Consistency is
always a hallmark of top estates, and that is exactly what readers will find here.”
2020 Verduno Pelaverga Speziale $39 (12/cs)
Pelaverga is Verduno’s signature indigenous grape, and Alessandria makes one of the very best versions.
“The Fratelli Alessandria 2020 Verduno Pelaverga Speziale opens to a light ruby color and lean appearance,
and it also shows the lightest alcohol content from these releases at just 13%. The wine is beautifully fragrant
and bright, with small berry notes, wild mint and a whole bunch of that freshly milled white peppercorn that is
so specific to this grape. I just love this grape, and I don't exaggerate when I say it is always a highlight of my
annual tasting from the Langhe, thanks to the eccentric and electric qualities so beautifully rendered.”
92 points, Monica Larner, Wine Advocate, June 2021
2018 Rossoluna $45 (12/cs)
This is an unusual blend of 40% nebbiolo, 30% barbera, and 30% freisa, destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts in tanks,
and aged in large 500 litre French barrels for a year.
“An outlier in the line-up, much deeper in colour. Fruit is of a darker, more brooding character- black currant,
cherry and plum picked on a warm summer day, with hints of sweet spice and liquorice. It carries the same
vibrancy and concentration of the nebbiolos. Full bodied, dense and fruit-rich with minor oak influence. The
wine’s solid structure serves as an excellent backbone for the generous palate and will only get better with age.”
Daniel Beiles, Burgundy Direct13
2019 Langhe Nebbiolo Prinsiòt $44 (12/cs)
Sourced from younger vines in Verduno, 1/3 of this wine is declassified Barolo. Aged 10 months in large neutral oak casks.
“The Fratelli Alessandria 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo Prinsiòt shows a medium dark ruby color that is nicely
saturated but also luminous and shiny. You are given a great window onto the fundamental and most truthful
qualities of the grape, with wild cherry and cassis at the front. Those fruit tones are intermingled with light
spice and grilled herb. Despite the rather informal and food-friendly disposition of this release, you also get
enough tannic structure to pair with bigger meat dishes, such as a fatty rack of lamb.”
92 points, Monica Larner, Wine Advocate, June 2021
2017 Barolo del Comune di Verduno $86.50 (6/cs)
For the first time in 2017, Alessandria’s Barolo ‘normale’ is made entirely from vines in the northerly Verduno commune, on the
unique local ‘marne di Sant’Agata’ soil type, a sandy clay-limestone marl. Aged entirely in large oak casks for three years before
bottling unfined and unfiltered.
“Wild red berry, camphor, truffle and dark spice aromas form the inviting nose. Elegantly structured, the
savory palate also has youthful tension, delivering ripe Morello cherry, raspberry compote, star anise and
tobacco blend set against taut, fine-grained tannins. Give it a few more years to fully develop.”
94 points, Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Spectator, July 2021
2017 Barolo Gramolere $128 (6/cs)
2017 Barolo Gramolere MAGNUM $278 (3/cs)
Unlike the estate’s other Barolos, which are all located in Verduno, Gramolere is located in Monforte d’Alba, and typically gives a
richer, darker, more structured wine.
“Forest floor, sandalwood, wild rose and cedar aromas take shape in the glass. Savory, structured and poised,
the palate is still young and primary, delivering ripe Morello cherry, spiced cranberry, licorice and ground clove
set against a backbone of firm, fine-grained tannins.”
96 points, Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Spectator, September 2021
2017 Barolo Monvigliero $154 (6/cs)
2017 Barolo Monvigliero MAGNUM $328 (3/cs)
In recent years, this south-facing vineyard at the extreme northern tip of Barolo has been recognized as one of the very best in the
entire region, and Fratelli Alessandria is one of its best interpreters.
“The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero marries the raciness of the year with the floral lift and elegance of this great
Verduno site. More than anything, the 2017 is a Barolo of pure and total sensuality. Even so, there is more
than enough tannin to allow the 2017 to drink well for many years to come. It is very clearly one of the wines
of the vintage. The rich, substantial finish is a thing of real beauty.”
96 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, February 2021
Coming Soon Thomas Bouley
2019 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
Roger Coulon 2019 Volnay
NV Champagne Heri Hodie
NV Champagne l’Hommée Baricci
2012 Champagne Millésime Blanc de Noirs 2019 Rosso di Montalcino
NV Champagne Héritage 2020 Rosso di Montalcino
2016 Brunello di Montalcino (750ml & 1500ml)
Domaine de Montcalmès
2017 Côteaux du Languedoc14
Caparsa Domaine Bruno Clavelier
2018 Caparsa Chianti Classico 2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain
2017 Caparsino Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 Vosne-Romanée Les Hauts de Beaux Monts
2016 Doccio a Matteo Chianti Classico Riserva 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Hautes Maizières
2011 Doccio a Matteo Chianti Classico Riserv 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux
In Transit 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d'Orveau
2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Cras
Champagne Clandestin
NV Les Semblables Boreal Champagne Marchand-Tawse
NV Les Semblables Austral Champagne 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
NV Les Grandes Lignes Champagne 2017 Côte de Nuits Rouge
2015 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Samuel Billaud 2014 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières
2020 Chablis Les Grands Terroirs 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
2019 Chablis 1er Cru Fourneaux 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées
2019 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Ormes
2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Domaine Rollin 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
2018 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc 2015 Corton Grand Cru Rouge
2018 Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc
2018 Pernand-Vergelesses Rouge Stéphane Aladame
2018 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses 2020 Bourgogne Mon Blanc
2019 Montagny 1er Cru Les Vignes Derrières
Domaine Chavy-Chouet
2020 Bourgogne Blanc Saussots François Raquillet
2019 Meursault Clos des Corvées de Citeaux 2018 Mercurey Vielles Vignes
2019 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières Domaine Pignier
2019 Bourgogne Rouge 2019 Crémant du Jura Brut
Sylvain Langoureau François Chidaine
2018 Saint-Aubin 2018 Les Argiles VdF (Vouvray)
2018 Montlouis Les Tuffeaux
Domaine Pavelot 2019 Montlouis Les Bournais
2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Guettes 2019 Montlouis Brut Tradition
2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Gravains 2020 Touraine Sauvignon
2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode 2020 Touraine Rouge
2014 Bullas PPP Tinto
Domaine Trapet (Gevrey-Chambertin & Alsace)
2017 Chambertin Grand Cru Domaine Rousset
2014 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru Riesling 2017 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge
2018 Riquewihr Riesling 2020 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Marsanne VV
2019 Ox Pinot Auxerrois
Bernard Levet
Domaine Tawse 2018 Côte-Rôtie Améthyste
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Ab. de Morgeot
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Domaine Charvin
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
2017 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud 2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge15 Domaine de Ferrand Mas Karolina 2020 Côtes du Rhône Mistral 2020 Côtes Catalanes Blanc 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020 Côtes Catalanes Rouge Domaine Ledogar 2020 La Mariole VV 2020 Corbieres Le Compagnon
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