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PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
PORTFOLIO
      SELECTED           R S

Mosha Lundström Halbert
   EDITOR   .   WRITER   . stylist
PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
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THE BIG
WINNERS
Paul Andrew
Vetements
x Manolo Blahnik
Aldo Bensadoun
Mark King
Foot Locker
Kith
Schutz
Fenty Puma
Creeper ➵
Nike
Gucci
Chiara Ferragni
Iris Apfel
John Varvatos
Nicolò Beretta
René Caovilla
Linda Fargo

                                                    QUE E N O F S H O ES
                                                         Rihanna’s Shoe of the Year
                                                         tops FN’s 30th annual list,
                                                         honoring the industry’s best.
PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
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              SHOW ISSUE
                                                                                                           CARTOON
                                                                                                           NETWORK
                                                                                                          The hottest
                                                                                                          pre-fall looks go
                                                                                                          on an animated
                                                                                                          adventure

                                                                                                           AIRING
                                                                                                           LAUNDRY
                                                                                                          Behind the
                                                                                                          scenes of Kristin
                                                                                                          Cavallari’s
                                                                                                          new campaign

                                                                                                           SIRIANO
                                                                                                           SAYS
                                                                                                          The quirky
                                                                                                          designer on
                                                                                                          profits, Payless
                                                                                                          and plus-size

Star
                                                                                                          controversies

Tracks
Katy Perry is
serious about
creating a hit in
the shoe biz. In
an FN exclusive,
the pop star goes
on the record
about learning
from the pros,
keeping it
real and her
ambitious plans
to conquer the
fashion world.
PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
L.A.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                NICOLE RICHIE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Actor & designer

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Between juggling motherhood and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                a new role on the Tina Fey-produced
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                comedy series “Great News” (debut-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                ing April 25 on NBC), Nicole Richie
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                has a full dance card. But fashion
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                remains a priority for this notori-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                ously funny woman, who is equally

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Stories
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                regarded for her ability to pull off a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                vintage Dior dress and land a salty
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                joke with aplomb. Her latest venture
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                is a partnership with e-commerce site
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Revolve on monthly mini-collections
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                of her House of Harlow 1960 wom-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                enswear collection. While on set in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Los Angeles (with her dog Iro),
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Richie shared more of her style and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                career insights.

                                PHOTOS: MODEL: PIPER CARLSON AT AMAX TALENT; HAIR: EDWARD ST. GEORGE AT AMAX TALENT; MAKEUP: MEGAN THOMPSON AT AMAX TALENT; PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: JOEL MICAH DENNIS. SHOT ON LOCATION IN NASHVILLE, TENN.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                When working on a new collection,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                what is your creative process?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                “Our family travels all year. In every city, I am
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                constantly taking photos. I carry a camera
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                in my purse — yes, a real camera. Whether
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                it’s a color palette, a texture or a print, I find
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                inspiration everywhere. It’s constant for me. I
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                am always fueling the creative process.”

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                How has your style evolved since your
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                label launched in 2009?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                “My core philosophy in life and style has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                always been the same: to have fun, express
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                myself and encourage other women to be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                true to themselves as well.”

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Who influences you from a business,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                career and style perspective?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                “I am surrounded by inspirational women.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                I was raised in L.A. It is a vibrant, ever-chang-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Inside the uniquely personal               ing place, I look to women throughout time
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                that have dressed to make themselves happy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 workspaces, homes and hangouts of              rather than look to trends.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   the city’s coolest creatives. Here,          Let’s talk shoes: What do you look for?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 15 Californian tastemakers wear the            “I have to say that I really do consider
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  season’s newest shoes — their way.            comfort. I love oxfords and classic Converse.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                I appreciate beautiful shoes from Valentino,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Aquazzura, Giuseppe Zanotti, but it’s not
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Photographed by Shane McCauley          about the designer. Shoes are a place to have
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Fashion Director: Mosha Lundström Halbert   fun and be eccentric.”

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                When you are dressing for a big event,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                what are some of your secrets?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                “Well, I am very lucky to be able to work
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                with my friends. The people who do my hair,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                makeup and styling are some of my nearest
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                and dearest. We play New Kids on the Block
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                and go wild. After a few dances and trying
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                on different outfits, we decide together as
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                girlfriends — even though some of them
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                are guys.”

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                What keeps you happy, healthy and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                inspired in L.A.?
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                “I always feel healthy after a hike with friends.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                I am never happier than after a day with my
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                kids, and I find myself being inspired by the
 Lounging at workspace                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          diversity and excitement of Los Angeles.”
 Hills Penthouse in
 West Hollywood                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 What is one thing nobody should leave
 Sarah Flint Gravati oxfords,                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Los Angeles without experiencing?
 House of Harlow 1960 x                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         “A drive down Mulholland.”
 Revolve dress, Jennifer
 Fisher necklace

32                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            53
PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
1B (Dark Background) Slug Right

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                WOMEN IN POWER

                                                       HER
                                                      STORY
                                                     Sarah Jessica Parker, the
                                                  ultimate shoe influencer, talks
                                                  leadership, ambition and rules
                                                    to live by in an FN exclusive.
PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
SJ
       P
     Owns It
      Innately strategic. Incredibly thoughtful.
      Determined to make her mark. The ultimate
      shoe queen opens up about her singular
      vision and playbook for success.
      By Mosha Lundström Halbert
      Photographs by Silja Magg

                    ower. By definition, it is the capacity to direct

         P
                    the behavior of others. Which is exactly what
                    Sarah Jessica Parker has done over the course
                    of her hotly influential and diverse career.
                       First, by inviting women to live vicariously
      through her glamorous characters (most notably Carrie
      Bradshaw), those dream shoes and all. And now, she con-
      tinues to enable footwear fantasies with her eponymous
      SJP collection. But in characteristic fashion, Parker would
      much rather have others talk about how hard she works
      than belt out her own praises. “I’m part of a generation
      that feels there’s a slightly unsightly thing about illustrat-
      ing the reality of it all,” the mom of three said during an
      exclusive interview and cover shoot for Footwear News.
      “I want somebody else to say it for me.”
         It’s not hard to find people who are willing to vouch for
      her. Three years ago, when she announced her footwear
      project (in partnership with Manolo Blahnik’s George
      Malkemus), the industry was excited, but skeptical.
         While she was long expected to do something with

20   COVER STORY
PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
WOMEN
  IN
POWER
PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
shoes — a natural fit, with the HBO series
                                     “Sex and the City” serving as a cultural zeit-
                                     geist for designer heels — no one anticipated
                                     the level of involvement she would bring to
                                     her brand.
                                         “In her own persuasive way, she has taken
                                     power of her destiny,” said Malkemus from
                                     the plush SJP headquarters in New York
                                     City’s Flatiron District. “We have certain
                                     notions about big stars. That’s not her at all.
                                     She’s everything I ever hoped for in a friend,
                                     but nothing I ever dreamed of having in a
                                     partner.” He also noted that while she may
                                     share a single-soled sensibility with Blahnik,
                                     there are marked differences between them:
                                     “Manolo is the greatest man to have ever
                                     had a relationship with shoes. But he is still
                                     a man. She brings a unique way of thinking
                                     that was new to me.”
                                                      Beauty mogul and longtime
                                                   friend Laura Mercier, whom
                     “I’m tireless. Parker counts as a mentor and
                          I want and business inspiration, agrees she
                                                   has a lot to offer. “She succeeds
                   expect everyone in transitioning from one thing
                        to approach to another because she is pas-
                                                   sionate, extremely intelligent
                    the work in the and cultured,” she said. “Plus,
                         same way.” she loves people and always tries
                           Sarah Jessica Parker
                                                   to be the best at what she does
                                                   — that is her power.”
                                                      For Bloomingdale’s, one of
                                     SJP’s key retailers, Parker’s lack of airs and
                                     willingness to evolve was a welcome sur-
                                     prise. “She only wants to get better. I’m con-
                                     tinually amazed that with her busy schedule,
                                     she is there for our buying appointments,”
                                     said fashion director Erica Russo, who also
                                     saluted Parker’s genuine desire to connect
                                     with shoppers and help them find that per-
                                     fect pair of shoes — literally. “She has you at
                                     such ease in the first few minutes that you
                                     almost forget Sarah Jessica Parker is putting
                                     a shoe on your foot.” In this case, that shoe
                                     is likely the best-selling Fawn pump or Tartt
                                     Mary Jane, two SJP styles the designer often
                                     wears.

                                                                                       PHOTOS: THIS PAGE: SILJA MAGG; OPPOSITE PAGE: REX SHUTTERSTOCK
                                         For Parker, this hands-on approach spans
                                     métiers, including her new HBO series,
                                     “Divorce,” which debuts this year. “I love
                                     detail,” she said. “That’s what distinguishes
                                     you. [‘Sex and the City’ architect] Michael
                                     Patrick King always said there are two ways
                                     of producing television: You’re either in or
                                     you’re out. And if you’re in, you should be
                                     coming across the finish line bloody. That’s
                                     how you get the best roles and work. You
                                     gotta be a bitter ender.”
                                         Here, Parker opens up on her approach to
                                     leadership, female mentorship and why she’s
                                     so much more than just a shoe lover.

22   COVER STORY
PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
Early success in music,
    acting and dance has
Zendaya primed to pave a
   powerful fashion path.
             By Mosha
     Lundström Halbert

       Photographed by
            Emily Hope
Shirtdress,
BCBGMAXAZRIA.
Angus lace booties,
Daya by Zendaya.
So, you haven’t heard of Zendaya?
Don’t fret. The Disney dynamo and
millennial fashion phenomenon has
no qualms explaining who she is.
“If Beyoncé, Oprah [Winfrey] and Shonda Rhimes            carpet) and Snapchat (where she is             stylist, Law Roach, Zendaya and Titan
                                                          often seen eating pizza with family or
had a baby, that would be me,” quipped the 19-year-                                                      regrouped for fall ’16.
                                                          joking with her parents, Claire Stoermer           “It’s the same aesthetic and quality;
old actress, singer, dancer and public speaker while      and Kazembe Ajamu, who double as               we just wanted to make it more afford-
on set recently for a Footwear News cover shoot in        managers and handlers).                        able, especially for my fans,” she said.
the flower district of Los Angeles. ➵ Like the three          The latest medium the Oakland, Calif.-     “For my demographic, I’m catering to
                                                          born Zendaya (the “day” is pronounced as       real women who work, are getting their
innovators she feels kinship with, Zendaya — who is       such) is determined to leave her mark on       first jobs or are in college. I want them to
5 feet 10 inches tall with a model’s lean build — has     is footwear. Shoes are the celebrity proj-     have shoes that make sense for them.”
her eyes firmly fixed on multimedia domination,           ect du jour, but it can be a tricky category       Although she has Christian Loubou-
and on her own terms. ➵ She is already well on            to get right. The budding businesswoman        tin’s Über-vertiginous So Kate pump in
                                                          knows about the challenges firsthand.          “every color” and claims they’re like slip-
her way, with a new album in the works and a                  Her Sole of Daya line launched for         pers for her, Zendaya realizes that both
36-million-strong social media following. Her             spring ’16 with Titan Industries, the Hun-     stylistically and economically, that’s not
audience hangs on her every tweet (she’s not afraid       tington, Calif.-based footwear licensee.       how most of her target audience shops.
                                                          The market response was that the collec-           “I want women to feel expensive,
to respond to bigotry from trolls with a snappy
                                                          tion, while desirable, was too expensive       luxurious and beautiful, but not have to
retort), Instagram (a perfect showcase for her            for the many young women. Along with           spend three years saving up for one pair
daring, increasingly cool style on and off the red        her co-creative director and personal          of shoes,” she added.
                                                                                                             Titan CEO Joe Ouaknine hesitates to
                                                                                                         call the retooled line a relaunch, standing
                                                                                                         behind the first collection as “the best of
Red                                                   1
                                                                                                         them all,” he said. “We stayed with the

Carpet                                          iHeartRadio
                                                Music Awards
                                                                                                         same looks, but adjusted our sourcing.”
                                                                                                         (Titan’s brand portfolio includes Charles
Hits                                              Haider
                                                Ackermann
                                                                                                         Jourdan, Badgley Mischka and Splendid;
                                                                                                         the company formerly produced L.A.M.B
The rising                                         boots                                                 and Gx by Gwen Stefani.)
                                                                                                             The new label also has a fresh name:
star has                                              2
                                                                                                         Daya by Zendaya. It starts at $70 for slide
set the                                           Met Gala
                                                                                                         sandals and tops out at $125 for mid-calf
                                                 after-party
fashion bar                                       Giuseppe                                               gladiators. The collection will retail at
high. Here,                                     Zanotti boots                                            Nordstrom, Kohl’s, Von Mauer, Zappos.
Zendaya                                               3
                                                                                                         com and Amazon.com.
stands out                                       Kids’ Choice
                                                                                                             Ouaknine is betting big on Zendaya
                                                                                                         after initially needing some convinc-
in some of
                                                                                                                                                        PHOTOS: ZENDAYA RED-CARPET: SHUTTERSTOCK

                                                   Awards
                                                                                                         ing from Vivienne Westwood U.S. CEO
her top looks                                      Sophia
                                                   Webster                                               Cristiano Mincio that she was indeed a
from 2016.                                        platforms                                              bankable name.
                                                                                                             “[Mincio] said, ‘You have to meet this
                                                      4
                                                                                                         young artist.’ My first reaction was I don’t
                                                  Glamour
                                                 luncheon                                                need another celebrity,” Ouaknine said.
                                                   Stuart                                                “I promised I would look her up and get
                                                 Weitzman                                                back to him.” After three follow-ups, he
                                                   heels                                                 agreed to meet with Zendaya and her
                 1                    2                          3                            4

16
“The factor that made me
                                       decide to work with her was
                                       her maturity. She told me
                                       that she was in charge
PHOTO: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

                                       and she would make all the
                                       decisions on her own.”
                                                                —Titan CEO Joe Ouaknine

                                       Sweater, Michael Kors.
                                       Earrings, Marni.
                                       Choker, Adornmonde.

                                                                                          24
father, who oversees her business deals,
on the Disney lot where she was rehears-
ing for hit TV show “K.C. Undercover.”
    It didn’t take much convincing.
    “The second she said one word, I liked
her,” Ouaknine remembered. “The factor
that made me decide to work with her
was her maturity. She told me right then
that she was in charge and she would
make all the decisions on her own.”
    From there, he said the talents of the
2014 “Dancing With the Stars” runner-
up sealed the deal. “This girl became a
fashion icon before the age of 18,” he said.
“She is a phenomenon in my eyes.”
    For his part, Roach had a similar ex-
perience of discovering Zendaya’s unique
package, albeit even earlier, when she
was 12. He’s since become integral to her
fashion evolution, most notably in her
2015 Oscars appearance, where her waist-
length dreads made headlines after TV
personality Giuliana Rancic made some
ill-advised comments. The resulting me-
dia storm only enhanced the teenager’s
fame and reputation as a style risk-taker.
    “We have this unique synergy. We
can finish each other’s sentences,” Roach
said. “I’ll know what she wants to say or
do. We’ve grown up together. I call her
my fashion soul mate.” The duo is now
courted by hard-to-crack labels such as
Louis Vuitton, Michael Kors and Calvin
Klein and pops up together at fashion
weeks in New York and Paris.
    It makes sense, then, that the
inseparable pair share the billing as
co-creative directors of Daya by Zendaya.
    “We try to be as hands-on as possible.
We look at fabrication and study heel

“This girl became a fashion icon before the age
of 18. She is a phenomenon in my eyes.”
                                                   —Titan CEO Joe Ouaknine

heights and trends, like what’s selling in
which part of the country,” Roach said.
“It’s a long, drawn-out process just to
get to the shoe. We both didn’t think it       Flightsuit: G star.
                                                                             PHOTO: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

would be that much work, but it is. She’s      Sports bra: American
adamant about having control and input         Apparel.
                                               Chokers: Adornmonde.
on something that has her name on it.”
                                               Ring: Simon G.
    For Zendaya, a shoe must meet certain
specifications for her to be satisfied. And
with influences such as Louboutin, the
star has high standards. “I wouldn’t cre-
ate a shoe that I don’t love and wouldn’t
put on my own foot,” she said.

18
something she asked early on in the                            very J.Lo or very Gwen Stefani.’ For us,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            creative process with Titan’s design team.                     every look is a new experience.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                As a result, Zendaya pushed her                                While a singular fashion sense may be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            partners to create a more modernized                           propelling her brand, Zendaya has much
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            pump, the Kyle, one of her favorites in                        deeper aspirations.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            the collection. “I wanted to see a little toe                      “I’m about empowering young people,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            cleavage, and that’s something that was                        women and people of color — every-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            tricky for Titan,” she said.                                   body,” said Zendaya, whose father is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                With celebrity lines, blatant copying of                   African-American and mother is of Dutch
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            high-end designers happens often. That’s                       descent. There aren’t many people with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            something both Zendaya and Roach                               a mixed-race background who have her
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            aimed to avoid. “I don’t want to create                        platform, and she knows it. “I try my
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            knockoffs,” she said. “I want to create our                    best to be a light source in a dark world
                                                                                                                                                                     THE KYLE, a modernized pump featuring toe cleavage at                                  own movement and style, even though I                          sometimes.”
                                                                                                                                                                     Zendaya’s request. “Standard pointy-toe heels all come out
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            don’t believe in trends.”                                          Zendaya recalled the time she met
                                                                                                                                                                     the same,” she said. “I wanted the build of it to look expensive.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                At the same time, she added, “I don’t                      Winfrey and almost cried. “Oprah is one
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            want people to feel like they have the                         of the dopest people in the world. When

                                                                                                                                                                     W
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            look for less; I want them to have the                         you think of her brand, it’s positive,” she
                                                                                                                                                                                 HEN IT COMES TO the technical                                              look that just happens to be for less.”                        said. “If she says it’s the best tea in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Zendaya’s mother, Stoermer, who                            world, you will drink that tea because
                                                                                                                                                                                 aspects of shoemaking, her                                                 oversees her calendar and social media,                        she’s trusted. She’s charitable and there is
                                                                                                                                                                                 opinionated nature and know-how                                            said this command of her brand and “the                        a meaning to her projects.”
PRODUCTION EDITOR: EMILY TAYLOR. ZENDAYA’S STYLIST: LAW ROACH. HAIR: RAY DODSON. PHOTO ASSISTANT: SERENA HERRICK. ZENDAYA AND ROACH PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRADFORD ROGNE

                                                                                                                                                                     are impressive for someone with zero design                                            buck stops here” attitude are integral to                          Similarly, she admires Rhimes, creator
                                                                                                                                                                     experience. ➵ “[Titan] is cool and great to work                                       her daughter’s success. “Everything is her.                    of “Grey’s Anatomy,” “Scandal” and other
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            She oversees it all,” she said. “It’s always                   big shows. “The woman is a genius. She
                                                                                                                                                                     with because they are very open to all of the little                                   her voice; she’s always stayed authentic.”                     creates gold and owns a night [on TV].
                                                                                                                                                                     obsessive details I have,” she said, citing the cut                                        Bonnie Fuller, editor-in-chief of celeb-                   I want to own a night,” said the actress,
                                                                                                                                                                     of the vamp and throat and height of the pitch as                                      rity site Hollywood Life (owned by FN                          who just wrapped “The Greatest Show-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            parent Penske Media), has been chart-                          man on Earth” with Hugh Jackman and
                                                                                                                                                                     key focal points. “I am all about a good ‘foot shoe,’
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            ing her rapid rise and said Zendaya’s                          is filming “Spider-Man: Homecoming”
                                                                                                                                                                     meaning I want it to look good on my foot. There is                                    style has allowed her to stand out. “She’s                     with Robert Downey Jr. “She also creates
                                                                                                                                                                     nothing worse than a shoe that doesn’t make your                                       incredibly versatile and not somebody                          roles and representation for different
                                                                                                                                                                     leg look good. That irritates me.”                                                     that’s locked into one style,” Fuller said.                    types of people on camera.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            “Her appeal is also that she can be                                Zendaya’s third hero recently em-
                                                                                                                                                                        On set with FN in her collection’s                                                  casual and relatable one day and then go                       braced the budding star. Beyoncé invited
                                                                                                                                                                     strappy pumps, platform sandals                                                        super-sophisticated or bold the next. She                      the rising star to appear in scenes from
                                                                                                                                                                     and cutout booties, Zendaya glides                                                     changes her look more than any other                           her “Lemonade” visual album. On that
                                                                                                                                                                     effortlessly, but recognizes she possesses                                             young star.”                                                   experience, she has “no words.”
                                                                                                                                                                     a special grace and groove. “I’ve trained                                                  This element of surprise is exactly                            Right now, Zendaya certainly has a lot
                                                                                                                                                                     my feet to [wear high heels], but not                                                  the intended result, according to Roach.                       to beam about. “When it comes to fash-
                                                                                                                                                                     everybody wants to do that. How do                                                     “You can’t just look at something and say,                     ion and life, a lot of things I do are pow-
                                                                                                                                                                     I get the lower pitch but still have it                                                ‘That’s Zendaya,’ ” he said. “As opposed to                    ered by how I feel, what makes me smile
                                                                                                                                                                     look good?” she said, noting that was                                                  other people you look at and say, ‘That’s                      and what makes me happy,” she said. ]

                                                                                                                                                                        Obeying the Law                       As Zendaya’s stylist and co-creative director of Daya by Zendaya, Law Roach is her secret weapon when it
                                                                                                                                                                        comes to creating a fashion identity. The L.A.-based risk-taker also tends to the fashion needs of Ariana Grande, Skai Jackson and Celine Dion.
                                                                                                                                                                        He also is a judge on the upcoming “America’s Next Top Model.” Law sheds some light on the quirky ways he works. — By Charlie Carballo

                                                                                                                                                                        On how          “I met her through a     On how          “A shoe can            On how          “It’s a real thing. It’s   On his           “I’ve always been ob-
                                                                                                                                                                        he and          close friend of their    his head-       inspire a dress or a   they            not just stylist-artist,   path to          sessed with vintage,
                                                                                                                                                                        Zendaya         family. I was just in    to-toe          hairstyle I’ve been    collabo-        stylist-client. She’s      styling:         so I would go to a lot
                                                                                                                                                                        met:            the right place at the   looks           thinking about. [In    rate on         my boss, but it’s this                      of resale stores [and]
                                                                                                                                                                                        right time on the day    come            preparing to do the]   styling:        real, natural organic                       estate sales, and [I]
                                                                                                                                                                                        Justin Bieber had a      together :      hair and makeup                        thing that we have.        started to collect this huge collec-
                                                                                                                                                                        premiere for his ‘Never Say Never’                       for the Met Gala,                      She’s not afraid of        tion. I had friends over, and they
                                                                                                                                                                        film. She was going shopping to                          I watched ‘Conan       anything, so that makes it even            [said], ‘I’ll buy that from you.’ That
                                                                                                                                                                        figure out something to wear. The        the Barbarian,’ and I wanted to do     more fun. Like [during the FN              turned into opening up a couple of
                                                                                                                                                                        family friend said I was a great         something reptilian-looking mixed      shoot], I said, ‘Let’s do braids like      boutiques, which led to styling.”
                                                                                                                                                                        stylist, but I wasn’t a stylist at the   with something Cleopatra. We did       A$AP Rocky,’ and she said, ‘OK.’”
                                                                                                                                                                        time, per se. We went shopping           a customized Stuart Weitzman
                                                                                                                                                                        and have been friends ever since.”       shoe for the occassion.”

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    19
FO OT W E A R N E WS.C O M   /   AU G UST 3, 2 0 1 5   /   @ FO OT W E A R N E WS

                                                                                                 SHOW ISSUE

HAMPTONS
HEAT UP
Pop ups. Parties.
Retailers fight
for exposure.
Is it working?

PICTURE
PERFECT
Designers dare
to bare with
graphics & leather

ALONG
THE WAY
Six shoe stars
talk to us — and
their younger
selves — about
career paths

                                                            THE GIRLS!
                                                             They’re the most-followed teenagers on the
                                                             planet. Kendall and Kylie Jenner exclusively
                                                             reveal their sure-to-go-viral shoe collection.
PHOTO: NIKKO LA MERE

Kendall and Kylie (center)
with models in Los Angeles
last week
The Reality Shoe
                                                                       endall and Kylie Jenner are

                                                         K
                                                                       piping hot. And no wonder.
                                                                       They are the world’s most
                                                                       famous and arguably most
                                                                       powerful teenagers — and
                                                                       there is no air conditioning.
                                                                           It’s a scorching afternoon in
                                                                       Los Angeles and the girls are
                                                         sweltering in a loft showroom downtown —
                                                         an Art Nouveau converted factory space in
                                                         the garment district with nothing but heir-
                                                         loom fans barely mustering a breeze. Both
                                                         are dressed in figure-hugging, all-black
                                                         looks. Kendall wears a blouse plunged to
                                                         the navel with a gold buckled belt, while
                                                         Kylie is poured into floor-sweeping flared
                                                         trousers and a crop top. They sit at a long
                                                         barnwood table flicking through their
                                                         phones, which one imagines are also quite
                                                         warm to the touch from an endless flow of
                                                         “likes” from their approximately 103 mil-
                                                         lion combined followers worldwide.
                                                            They are framed by two models wearing
                                                         looks from their premiere full-scale inde-
                                                         pendent label, Kendall + Kylie. Completing
                                                         the scene are racks of the spring ’16 col-
                                                         lection, which includes apparel, swimwear
                                                         and, most importantly, shoes.
                                                            Footwear News’ exclusive first look is
                                                         also the sisters’ first time seeing the line
                                                         together as a whole. It’s a big moment.
                                                         “I really love it. We’ve been excited about
                                                         this for a while,” said Kendall, 19, surveying
                                                         the smattering of Polaroids of her favorite
                                                         pieces scattered in front of her. “We’ve been
                                                         working on it for about a year, but it’s so
                                                         cool to see everything in person.”
                                                            The full-scale brand, positioned as a
                                                         contemporary line, with most clothing
  From early shoe memories to their ambitious foray      capped at $250 and footwear ranging from

into footwear and beyond, an exclusive inside look at
         Kendall and Kylie Jenner’s biggest story yet.   By Mosha Lundström Halbert
$89 to $160, is being developed by license-holder     and shoes we have created are so much different
                                  Indochine International.                              than what we would have done two years ago.”
                                     After an initial shoe launch with Modern Vin-      The Madden deal gave them a crash course in
                                  tage LLC last season through brothers Rick and        footwear. “From him, we learned about what sells,
                                  Brian Cytrynbaum, the shoe license was pur-           what people are drawn to and also how it’s made,”
                                  chased by Marc Fisher in June after only a month      said Kylie. “We visited the [sampling] factories
                                  of negotiations. Moving quickly, Kendall + Kylie      on Long Island. That was amazing — there are so
                                  Creative Director Chelsea Santry worked with the      many elements that go into shoes.”
                                  Fisher team and the girls to have the footwear col-       The new footwear collection will include about
                                  lection done in time for this week’s FFANY show.      70 styles for spring ’16, with an emphasis on what
                                     “Kendall and Kylie share a unique relationship     Itzkowitz calls a mix of “sexy dress and casual
                                  with their audience that is uncompromisingly          cool” silhouettes. “The girls are reinventing dress
                                  personal, in the moment and                                         shoes in a fresh way that will surely
                                  trusted,” said Susan Itzkowitz,         “My older sister appeal to their wide fan base.” The
                                  president of Marc Fisher Foot-                                      results? Strappy stilettos, sharp
                                  wear. “They have mass appeal,          Kourtney has                 pumps, pointed mules, flatforms
                                  which young girls and women            small feet. There and the odd flat sandal, all done in a
                                  alike seek to emulate.”                                             streamlined palette to complement
                                                                         was a time when the apparel’s overall neutrality.

                                  S
                                             ince the sisters are        I was really                    Santry, who first worked with the
                                             part of the juggernaut                                   girls on their Topshop capsule, sees
                                             that is the Kardashian      young where                  the shoes as an important element for
                                             clan, this is not the       I would fit in her this more elevated brand. “The collec-
                                             first time (nor the
                                  last) that products have been          shoes. That was tion              is more sophisticated. It’s much
                                                                                                      more like what you see them wear,”
                                  produced bearing their names.          always fun. ”                she said. Having previously worked
                                  Earlier deals included a juniors’      Kylie Jenner                 with another superstar sibling set —
                                  line with Pac Sun, a collaboration                                  Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen — on
                                  with Steve Madden and a recent                                      their Textile denim line, Santry is
                                  capsule collection for Topshop. But Kylie, who it     keenly aware of both the power and the complexi-
                                  is easy to forget is just 17, sees Kendall + Kylie as ties of the Jenner story.
                                  their most polished project yet.                          “The time is different. Mary Kate and Ashley
                                     “Our collections have evolved with us and our      were the first to do it, but these girls take it to a
                                  fans,” she said, looking up from her phone when       whole other level with social media and how they
                                  asked what she’s learned from previous adven-         market themselves. Their accounts are so ‘them.’
     The duo at the ESPYs 2015    tures in branding. “It’s fun because the clothes      Nothing is contrived about it. When you look at
                                                                                        how big they are and their reach, it’s refreshing to
     Kendall + Kylie spring ‘16                                                         believe it’s actually, genuinely coming from them.”

                                                                                                                                                              PHOTOS: FOOTWEAR: NIKKO LA MERE; ESPYS: GETTY; IMAGES BALMAIN CAMPAIGN; COURTESY OF BRAND
                                                                                            Kylie, the most-viewed user on Snapchat at
                                                                                        press time, is acutely aware that online platforms
                                                                                        can ensure that the collection performs well on
                                                                                        the sales floor or an e-commerce site. “Social me-
                                                                                        dia is super-important,” she said. “A lot of people
                                                                                        ‘like’ what we wear and what we love. Why not
                                                                                        wear your own stuff ?”
                                                                                            What Santry did not fully anticipate was how
                                                                                        in-the-mix Kendall and Kylie wanted to be from
                                                                                        the get-go. “I thought they would just want to
                                                                                        come and in and say ‘this is cool, that’s great,’ but
                                                                                        they actually want to be a lot more involved,” she
                                                                                        said, noting that despite thorough research, her
                                                                                        team has occasionally missed the mark and had
                                                                                        the girls veto an idea — something she welcomes.
                                                                                            “I watched a lot of ‘Keeping Up With the Kar-
                                                                                        dashians’ and looked at a ton of shots of them on
                                                                                        the Internet. At some point, it felt like stalking,”
                                                                                        Santry joked. From there, she and the Jenners
                                                                                        had regular in-person design meetings to discuss

22                                        Kendall and Kylie have both sported their brother-in-law Kanye West’s sell-out Adidas Yeezy Boost kicks recently.
concepts, colors, fabrics and prints. With the          Balmain fall ’15
quick turnaround of the footwear collection             campaign
this season, most of the girls’ involvement has
been over e-mail.

I
            t’s clear that shoes are a topic that
            grabs their attention (away from
            iPhones), loosens those media-trained
            strings and brings a sparkle to the
            sisters’ extremely lashed eyes. Even in
the sweltering showroom, shoe talk proves to be
the icebreaker.
    “Growing up, we would always steal my
mom’s heels,” said Kendall. “My older sister
Kourtney has small feet. There was a time when
I was really young where I would fit in her
shoes. That was always fun,” added Kylie.
    Of course, momager Kris Jenner has this
amply documented. “We have really old videos
when we were babies walking around in her
heels that didn’t fit us at all,” said Kendall, who
also dipped her toes into Kourtney’s shoe col-
lection at a young age. “She’s a size 5. When I
was growing up, first I would get her hand-me-
downs until I grew out of them. Then I would
get Kim’s. Once I grew out of those, it was on          tinct power of a little lift. “Heels make me feel
to my mom’s.”                                           so much better. I’m not as skinny as Kendall, so
    The Kardashians have influenced a glam-             when I’m in heels, it makes my legs look longer
orous, perma-camera-ready approach to the               and slimmer.”
Jenner girls’ aesthetic. But when asked if any             They both admit to a serious shoe-shopping
of their boldface family members have seen              habit, which is in line with a recent “inspira-
pieces of the Kendall + Kylie line, the response        tional quote” post on their @KendallandKylie
is quick. “They haven’t,” Kendall said. “We don’t       Instagram. It reads “Life is short. Buy the shoes.”
want their opinion on it because we want it to             “They are my favorite thing to shop for,” Kylie
be very ‘us.’ We don’t show them anything until         sighed. “Some days, I’ll just go to Barneys and
it’s done and out.” Too many cooks in the Cala-         try on as many as I can. I love buying shoes,” she
basas kitchen can’t be a good thing, I suggest.         mused, citing Gianvito Rossi, whose heels she is
“Exactly,” she agrees. “We all have similar styles      wearing, as a favorite. “He’s amazing. Oh — and
but different tastes.”                                  Alaïa. Expensive, but the best.”
    Kendall’s more assured mien stems from her             “Yes!” agreed Kendall. “Best shoes. Balencia-
                                                                                                                The sisters
unprecedented success moonlighting as a top             ga, too — they kill it every time.” She lifts her leg   at a Topshop
model, with contracts from Chanel and Given-            to rest her gold Manolo Blahnik BB on the table         event
chy to Estée Lauder. The duo also star together         near Kylie, who begins to rub her foot. “I really
in the fall ’15 Balmain campaign. And their high-       love Manolos. They are super-classic. And they
profile adolescence has exposed them to the best        have all the good colors.”

                                                        K
footwear. “Just being able to experience all these
different shoes that we’ve worn has taught us                        endall + Kylie CEO Gary Hunt (who
what we like and don’t like,” Kendall said. “That                    also oversees their Pac Sun juniors’
definitely helps.”                                                   collection) is banking on the girls’
    While they see eye-to-eye on most design                         newly discerning, and let’s face it,
choices, footwear can divide them. “My sisters                       expensive tastes translating to more          “We have really old
tend to wear heels, but I’m super into flats,” said     budget-conscious customers. Initially, Hunt
Kendall, noting that the collection will have           is targeting a tight edit of chain and specialty         videos when we were
lower styles as well.                                   retailers.                                              babies walking around
    Kylie isn’t having it. “I don’t wear flats. Ever.       “When we first did this, the goal was always
I don’t own a pair, not even gladiators,” she said.     to take them worldwide. So yes, we’ve seen the            in [our mom’s] heels
“Just a few sneakers — that’s the only time I’ll        brand change significantly as they have gotten               that didn’t fit us.”
wear a flat.” Already, she’s caught on to the dis-      older and their interests have changed,” he said,                        Kendall Jenner

                                                                                                                                                  23
noting that on the brand’s social media,
     70 percent of the sisters’ followers are                                                                          Marc Jacobs
     from the U.S, followed by Canada, the

                                                      FOOT
     U.K. and Australia. “As they’ve seen what
     their [older] sisters have done in fash-
     ion,” Hunt said, “it’s brought out their

                                                      NOTES
     desire to be a part of it. And as a model,
     Kendall has gotten such great experience
     working with designers.”
        Hunt added that it’s too early for sales
     targets. “We are focusing on the process         The sisters sound off
     and investing in that. We’ve spoken to           on fashion, footwear
     most of the major department stores,
     and the interest level is extremely high         and life in the fast lane.
                                                                                                          Givenchy
     — almost too high. We want to scale
                                                      You, in shoe form?
     it back and intelligently manage the
                                                      “I’m a lace-up thigh-high.”
     launch to make a good first impression.”
                                                      — Kylie                                                          Craziest runway shoe?
        That potential is hard to ignore. In
                                                                                                                       “I wore these shoes for Marc Jacobs that were just like a
     fact, as Hunt is offering his strategy,          “I’m like a cool boot heel. Or a bright                          heel with the top [upper] all just laces. They taped our feet
     Kylie and Kendall are doing a little prod-       metallic pump, like my Manolos.”                                 in, and it was super-sticky. I had tape on my feet for like
     uct-seeding by providing his team with           — Kendall                                                        three days afterwards.” — Kendall
     a list of friends they want to gift specific
     pieces to immediately. Pink Post-its                                           Shoe don’ts?                                                                Sibling with the
     bearing the names of their inner circle                                        “I’m not into clogs.                                                        most shoes?
                                                                                    No, you won’t find a                                                        “Khloe. She has a
     — which includes Taylor Swift, Gigi and
                                                                                    Kendall + Kylie clog.”                                                      ton — the most of
     Bella Hadid, Hailey Baldwin and Cara                                           — Kendall                                                                   any of us. Now, she
     Delevingne — are attached to samples             Prada
                                                                                                                                                                and I are both a size
     destined for highly connected members                                          “But you know what I like?                                                  40. It’s the best. The
     of what’s been called the new Brat Pack.                                       Prada just came out with the                                                other day, she had
                                     “[But]                                         dopest heels with wooden                                  With sister       to get rid of a lot of
      “Just being able people we                                                    soles. I like the wood vibe, but                               Khloe
                                                                                                                                              Kardashian
                                                                                                                                                                her shoes because
                                                                                    it has to be done right.”                                                   she had too many.
     to experience all know                  who
                                     support us                                     — Kylie                                                                     She gave away 26

     these different                 wouldn’t                                                                                                                   pairs, and I almost
                                                                                                                                                                cried.” — Kendall
     shoes that we’ve wear                  some-
                                     thing if         What would someone be surprised to discover if
                                                                                                                       How has your style evolved?
     worn has taught they didn’t                      they spent a day in your shoes?
                                                      “Probably that I’m not that confident — it’s sad, I know.        “Going through puberty, you get

     us what we                      like it,” said
                                     Kendall.
                                                      People would be surprised to know that. But I like to            tits, an ass and you learn how
                                                                                                                       to dress for your body. That’s
                                                      think that I rock everything I wear, and shoes can make
     like and don’t                     Santry        you more confident.”                                             something we both had to figure                        2008

     like. It definitely them hav-   appreciates      — Kylie                                                          out. You get more confident with
                                                                                                                       yourself and what you like.
     helps.”                         ing Swifty       “Maybe that I’m more fun than I look!”                           Everyone’s always changing —
                                                                                                                       liking things for five minutes and
                                     & Co. on         — Kendall
     Kendall Jenner                                                                                                    then moving on.” — Kendall
                                     speed-dial.

                                                                                                                                                                                         PHOTOS: FOOTWEAR: COURTESY OF BRANDS; RUNWAY, JENNERS: GETTY IMAGES
                                                                                Favorite Shoes?
     “They are naturally genius marketers,”           Azzedine                  “Givenchy has really great shoes.”
     Santry said, relishing this relatively           Alaïa                     — Kylie                                                                  Career advice?
     low-cost, covetable, highly effective form                                                                                                          “Our family did a good job of
                                                                                                                                                         teaching us to stay humble.
     of Internet-centric celebrity placement.                                   “And they are actually pretty
                                                                                comfortable.”                                                            I’ve heard this from so many
     “Traditional routes aren’t targeted
                                                                                — Kendall                                                                people — you’ve got to find
     enough to keep up with their following,”                                                                                                            your balance. Make time for
     Hunt agreed. “I can barely keep up.”                                                                                                                work, family, friends. That’s
                                                                                “Alaia! Best heels. I like Chanel’s    With
        Speaking of keeping up, while it’s still                                                                                                         the key to keeping sane. If
                                                                                boots a lot.”                          mom
     early in the game, chances are the older                                   — Kendall                              Kris                              you are taking, you can give.
     Kardashians will soon be outpaced by             Chanel
                                                                                                                                                         So if you take the time for
     their younger, more socially engaged and                                   “Oh, yes — Alaia, too! They are                                          yourself, you’re going to
     agile Jenner siblings.                                                     super-expensive but some of my                                           give more when you are out
                                                                                                                                                         there working.”
        And if the footwear is anything to go                                   favorite shoes.“
                                                                                — Kylie                                                                  — Kendall
     by, they better buckle-up those booties.
     “We will be wearing it,” Kendall said.

24
FOOTWEAR NEWS SPY
AUGUST 20 1 5

                        Gaming
                        Las Vegas
                        Showgirl styles,

SUM
                        Instagram stars
                        & killer shoes for
                        strutting The Strip

                        Piping Hot

BLONDE
                        Summer sandals
                        get tropical
                        for resort ’16

The world’s most
popular fashion
blogger has followers
racing to be in her
shoes — and Chiara
Ferragni is just
getting started.
#
Ferragni, photographed
for FN at The New York Edition
EYES
              She’s already
              a superstar in
              the social media
              world and a front-

                                                               ON
              row regular. Now,
              Chiara Ferragni
              is determined to
              conquer the shoe

                                                              THE
              business — and
              she’s off to a                                                                                                                A personal appearance
                                                                                                                                               at Apropos in Berlin
              roaring start.
              By Mosha
              Lundström

                                                           PRIZE
              Halbert

#
              Photographed by
              Leslie Kirchhoff

                                                                                                                                             At Paris Fashion Week

                                                 world, the Cremona, Italy–born,         Harvard published a 16-page
                                                 Los Angeles–based Ferragni has          case study on her last year (cue
                                                 a rapt audience at her fingertips.      #theblondesaladgoestoharvard
                                                 The millennial community she has        photo op).
                                                 strategically cultivated is eager to       How did a law student who
                                                                                                                                             At Milan Fashion Week
                                                 click, share and most importantly       began posting amateur outfit
                                                 consume whatever she shows              shots online in 2009 emerge as a
                                                 them, be they collaborations with       fashion force to be reckoned with?
          theblondesaladneverstops. That’s       Steve Madden and Superga or             Very carefully, it turns out, with
          Chiara Ferragni’s catchphrase          paid posts for, say, Ca’ del Bosco,     highly calculated precision fueled
          on Instagram, where she has                                                                                            At Haute Couture
                                                 a wine company — all recent side        by her huge fan base.
                                                                                                                                 Fashion Week
          more than 4.7 million followers        projects. And now she’s setting            “So many people were
          spanning three accounts. The           her sights on the shoe world,           interested in what I was doing
          word mashup — a reference to           where her Chiara Ferragni               from the beginning,” said Ferragni
          her peripatetic pace — has been        Collection is expected to pull          one recent afternoon from her
          hashtagged tens of thousands           in more than 10 million euros,          suite at New York City’s The
          of times. It’s a fitting mantra        or about $11 million at current         Edition hotel. She’s all-angles thin,
          for the driven 28-year-old, who        exchange, in 2016.                      with a photogenic head of mussed
          today sits at the very apex of the         While some might be skeptical       amber waves — a shade that isn’t
          web-lebrity pyramid.                   of her power, one can’t just            quite blonde anymore.
              Widely considered the top          write Ferragni off as yet another          Not that it matters these days,
          personal style blogger in the          blogger, particularly when              with her evolving brand and

Ferragni was the first blogger to grace the cover of Vogue, appearing on the Spanish edition’s April 2015 issue.                                                      27
theblondesalad.com now functioning                       pit stops a priority every season.
                            as an editorial site that attracts luxury                    “My designers are amazing. I’ve
                            advertisers. The bulk of the content is                  always loved their style. It changed the
                            created by her 18-strong team in Milan.                  whole concept once I put them in place,”
                                Known for her of-the-moment fashion                  she said. “Now we brainstorm and go
                            sense, today Ferragni is wearing a                       through the creative process together.
                            relatively pared-down outfit: a striped                  They understand what I love. When they
                            Stefanel sweater and vintage tailored                    come to me with ideas, it’s rare that it’s
                            jeans by Redone. One’s gaze can’t help                   something I wouldn’t wear.”
                            but go straight to her shoes — a pair of                     Ferragni’s transparency and candor
                            Chiara Ferragni Collection pointed loafers               when it comes to her involvement in her
                            covered in glitter, featuring her go-to                  collection is refreshing, particularly in an
                            ocular motif on the toe. “The flirty eye is              age when countless bloggers, actors, pop
                            our signature,” she said of the label, which             and reality stars claim to have “designed”
                            is a separate entity from The Blonde Salad.              or “collaborated on” collections when
                            “I have a bit of an obsession with eyes                  they might have merely been on an e-mail
                            and always want to use them.” The first                  chain — or, in some cases, just blindly
                            collection debuted for fall 2010, and this               doled out their name for a fat sum. There
                            detail is now just as recognizable — and,                is no entitled appropriation of the word
                            indeed, ’gram-able — as Ferragni herself.                “designer” here. Perhaps because it’s

                            B
                                                                                     footwear, and Ferragni is from Italy, home
                                     ut while her shoes might appear                 to the very best, she knows better than to
                                     less than serious, Ferragni cares               misrepresent her skill set.
                                     deeply about their made-in-Italy                    “I’m more the creative director,” she
                                     quality as she aggressively works               said with no qualms. “I mean, I cannot
                                     to grow her business. (Her cut is               design shoes. It’s my ideas, and they
                            10 percent of profits.)                                  translate them into the designs. I’ve never
                                “When I started, I didn’t have any                   done fashion school or anything like that.
                            idea of production or how things worked                  But I have good instincts.”
                            in footwear,” she said in her rapid-fire,                    It certainly helps that those instincts
                            accented English, with her French bulldog,               can be verified in virtual nanoseconds via
                            Matilda, on her lap. “I’ve always been into              her followers, who act as a sounding board
                            shoes and bags. Shoes, I’ve always felt like             for the shoes, which she often wears,
                            I could do. And there is much more space                 snaps and posts.

                                                                                     A
                            for new people [today],” she explained.
                            “But bags are such a different, difficult                         lessio Sanzogni — GM of The
                            product. I already have so many favorites,                        Blonde Salad (or TBS) and the
                            and they are the iconic brands.” Indeed, on                       Chiara Ferragni Collection, who
                            her feeds, there’s a steady stream of Birkin,                     formerly headed digital at Louis
                            Celine, Chanel and the like.                                      Vuitton in Italy — attests that
                                                                                                                                                       With Calvin Klein
                                Together with her CEO/co-founder                     the brand relies heavily on social media                          Creative Director
                            and former boyfriend, Riccardo Pozzoli,                  for direction. “Reading our comments is                           Francisco Costa
                            Ferragni initially entered a footwear-                   like having a consulting firm. They are                           at the 2015 Met Gala
                            license agreement before taking                          super-picky and don’t think twice about
                            ownership with the help of an angel                      giving feedback,” he said. Ferragni said
                            investor and a sales manager in 2013.                    she reads and applies the input. “I receive
                            Next, they hired a three-person design                   such instant comments on what I post. I’m
                            team in Milan. Despite the nine-hour                     so aware of everything that is happening
                            time difference between California                       around me in the fashion scene. So now I
                            and Italy, Ferragni stays in constant                    get to know immediately if a lot of people
                            contact with the designers and visits the                will like a shoe.”
                            headquarters about every month and a                        And “like” them they do. The collection,
                            half for a week. She also makes factory                  which retails from $217 to $400, includes

                                                       CHIARA ON ...                       The appeal of her line:
                                                                                           “It’s not for everyone. My shoes
                                                                                                                                Footwear learning curves:
                                                                                                                                “It’s much more difficult than
                                                                                                                                                                   Her current base:
                                                                                                                                                                   “My home is in L.A. There are      A spring ’16 pump
                                                                                           are not simple nor minimalist.       it looks like, especially when     so many young, creative people
                                                       Being a brand:
                                                                                           There are so many other brands       you decide to make things in       there. All of my friends do
                                                       “We don’t want this to be
                                                                                           that do that very well. But I want   Italy. So many people we tried     something artistic. It’s a good
                                                       celebrity merchandise. It has to
                                                                                           to be something else. I want         to work with for production        lifestyle and not too expensive.
                                                       be a full collection with its own
                                                                                           to be pop, fun and at the same       said that what we wanted to        Everybody works hard but takes
                              At Paris                 identity, disconnected from me
                                                                                           time accessible to people of all     do wasn’t possible. But I didn’t   time for themselves, which is
                              Fashion
     PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

                                                       as a personality. I don’t wear it
                                                                                           ages — including those who are       want something indifferent. You    very important at this time in
                              Week                     every day or have to promote it
                                                                                           older than me. That’s what we        really have to select the people   my life. When I travel, I work
                                                       all the time. It has to be strong
                                                                                           are working on. The collections      you work with. When you trust      99 percent of the time. When
                                                       by itself. Then of course, I’m
                                                                                           keep getting better and more         them, everything comes easily.”    I am back in L.A., I work too,
                                                       proud, so I try to wear it.”
                                                                                           focused.”                                                               but I always have some days
                                                                                                                                                                   completely off.”

28
“I’m more the
                                                   creative director.
                                                     I cannot design
                                                    shoes. But I have
                                                    good instincts.”
                                                             Chiara Ferragni

     A shot from the
     fall ’15 campaign

     espadrilles, sandals, flats, sneakers, pumps       capsule together this month, and Oliveros
     and boots. None of them could be described         sees great potential for the brand. “She
     as basic, nor discreet, with interchangeable       should continue to home in on what works
     Velcro emoticon patches and personal slogans       for her — from an evolution perspective, she
     across the toe box like “Never Stop” in            has already grown,” he said. “She’s definitely
     block caps.                                        on the right path.”

                                                        F
         While the footwear is definitely loud,
     it’s hard to knock Ferragni — whose own                      ellow online influencers, twin sisters
     aesthetic can skew a tad flashy — when major                 Caillianne and Samantha Beckerman
     retailers such as Level Shoe District, Nastygal.             of Beckerman Blog, admire their
     com, Shopbop.com, Harvey Nichols, Brown’s                    friend’s ability to translate her persona
     Shoes, Saks and Nordstrom are lining up                      into a bankable business. “Her shoe
     to stock the label. “When we started, we           line fits who she is perfectly,” said Samantha
     wanted to be in the best stores. By being          Beckerman. “We went to her party at Le
     very selective with our product, we got there,     Bon Marché Paris last year, and there were
     beside so many other great shoe designers of       hundreds of fans there lined up to see her.
     my dreams,” Ferragni said, beaming. (Still,        She just has that energy.” Caillianne added
     when asked what shoe designers she admires,        that with Ferragni’s friendly, hyper-positive
     it’s the one time she does, well, stop, drawing    demeanor, she is inclusive versus exclusive.
     a blank.)                                          “They feel like they know her through her blog
         For stores, the appeal of Ferragni’s line is   and Instagram. And with her shoe line, people
     as much about her as the shoes. For instance,      feel like they can be a part of her posse. That’s
     in 2014, Level Shoe District in Dubai got          really appealing.”
     a buzzy boost from Ferragni’s in-store                 The footwear piece of the Ferragni pie
     appearance to launch exclusive styles. “The        continues to develop with an expansion
     response was phenomenal,” said merchandise         focusing on the U.S. market — the brand will
     and buying manager Alberto Oliveros, who           be on the floor in Las Vegas this week. “My
     added that 300 pairs were sold within three        following is international. I get recognized
     hours. “Chiara’s shoe collection is quirky         everywhere,” she said. (The proof is in the
     and fun — it speaks to our contemporary            paparazzi shots.) “I wear my shoes a lot.
                                                                                                              Eyes appear throughout
     clientele, who are very social media savvy.”       I love saying it’s my brand.” Because right now,      Ferragni’s fall ’15 and
     The partners are launching a new espadrille        Ferragni is where it’s @.                             spring ’16 collections

30
STYLE

                                                                                    After 40 years in the
                                                                                    business, Manolo
                                                                                    Blahnik is having a
                                                                                    moment (again!) by
                                                                                    sticking to exactly what
                                                                                    he does best: brilliant
                                                                                    shoes BY MOSHA
                                                                                    LUNDSTRÖM HALBERT

                                RENAISSANCE
                                MANOLO
                                SUDDENLY, UNEXPECTEDLY, BUT WITH                     Royal Agricultural Winter Fair. A call is
                                great bravado, Manolo Blahnik begins to              made. Countless emails between Blahnik’s
                                sing. “Watching me get undressed. La la la           New York and London offices are fired off.
                                la la la. Go play a video gameee,” he purrs          Weeks, then months pass. I start to accept
                                from over the pond. “I am mad, just mad              that the closest I’ll get to MB are the
                                about Lana Del Rey because she is kind of            pointed toe suede BB pumps I bought in a
                                an unbalanced and sad thing.”                        last ditch effort to send a sort of smoke

                                                                                                                                      PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK. FOR WHERE TO BUY, SEE STYLESOURCE.
                                   Okay, so we are speaking via telephone            signal his way. Then one morning, his
                     (ABOVE):
                 FOOTWEAR       (he ensconced at his London HQ, me in my             abrupt press attaché Karolina rings. “Mr.
                    PHENOM-     Toronto cubicle), but I imagine he has leapt         Blahnik is able to do this interview today.
              ENON MANOLO
                    BLAHNIK,    to his feet in his signature gray suit and           Call us back in 10 minutes.” Click. “Mr.
                   DESIGNER
                OF PEERLESS     bowtie to belt out the song with great style.        Blahnik?” says this reporter exactly 600
                PUMPS (MAIN
              SHOT): THE BB,
                                It’s a telling gesture, evidence that at 70, this    seconds later. “Ms. Lundström?” he coos
              $595, FROM HIS    prolific, CBE-holding designer is both in the        right back. And we’re off.
                    FALL 2012
                COLLECTION.     moment and of it. Designing unwavering                  The timing of our conversation is spot
                                footwear that is not quite classic, but never,       on. After the past few seasons of extremely
                                ever trendy either, all the while keeping a          dangerous, borderline farcical footwear, the
                                finger—or in the case of his creations, a            platform-less, triangular-toed, delicate heel
                                toe—on the cultural pulse.                           has returned to favour. On-the-go women
                                   But let’s back up a bit. This memorable           such as Rihanna, Victoria Beckham (who
                                snippet has come after months of working             he collaborated with for the first time on
                                various angles to secure precious time with          her Spring ’13 open-toe boots) and, well,
                                Blahnik. A friend at family shoe business            me, who were fed up with stumbling their
                                Davids Footwear, Richard Markowitz, knows            way through city streets, ankles quivering
                                his brand president George Malkemus, an              with fear, have turned to his elegant
                                avid dairy farmer who frequents Toronto’s            creations as an antidote, while longtime >

X2 FLARE DECEMBER 2012                                                                                                www.flare.com
STYLE
                                                                                                                 LATELY, VIXENS
                                                                                                                 VICTORIA BECKHAM
                                                                                                                 AND RIHANNA HAVE
                                                                                                                 DONE AWAY WITH
                                                           today how extraordinary growing up in the             BRASH PLATFORMS IN
                                                                                                                 FAVOUR OF
                                                           fifties was. You’ve seen Mad Men, yes? It was         BLAHNIK’S
                                                                                                                 FLATTER-
                                                           more or less like that.”                              ING CUTOUT
                                                              “Mad”(a favourite Manolo word) is also             STYLES AND
                                                                                                                 STRAPPY
                                                           how he endearingly describes his “groomed             SANDALS.
                                                           to death, absolutely beautiful” mother’s love
                                                           of fashion, with frequent visits to Cristóbal
                                                           Balenciaga’s ateliers in Madrid and Paris.
                                                           “Things on the islands were not like any-
                                                           where in the world. We had to wait for
                                       BLAHNIK’S
                                       SKETCHES            materials, chiffons, even shoes, so she would
                                       OF HIS
                                       RED HOT
                                                           make things herself,” he remembers. “She
                                       VULGARA             even went to this [cobbler] and asked him to
                                       AND MOLO
                                       HEELS               teach her how to make shoes.”
                                                              After this potassium-rich, posh youth,
                                                           Blahnik’s father sent him off to study politics
                                                           and law at University of Geneva in the false
                                                           hope he would become a diplomat. “Abso-
      devotees (Anna Wintour, Sarah Jessica                lutely horrrrrrrrible,” he recounts. He quickly
      Parker and Ashley Olsen) smugly contin-              switched disciplines to architecture and
      ued their unencumbered strides.                      literature, but it still wasn’t right, so he
         What is it like to have been right all along?     decamped to Paris and studied set design.

                                                                                                                        AR s bestor RD
      “You know I hate platforms,” he starts, voice        Upon graduation, Blahnik flew to New York
      archly rising in pitch. “Vulgar. That’s what I       to look for work in film or theatre. A meeting

                                                                                                                   GU now the UA
                                                                                                                           D st y:
      think of them and that kind of gaudiness.            arranged by friend Paloma Picasso with

                                                                                                                  D olo rkal of G
      I call them celebrity stuff—all those awful          legendary editor Diana Vreeland, then of

                                                                                                                OL Maen mo EW
      shoes. You can buy them on Hollywood                 American Vogue, changed everything. He
      Boulevard by the pound for half what you             showed her a portfolio of sketches, including

                                                                                                                          N
      pay in Europe.”                                      a few of his whimsical footwear musings.
         Clearly, Manolo knows best. After 40 years        “Just stick to shoes,” he remembers her

                                                                                                                   Th
      of turning out signature spindly stilettos and       extolling, snapping his book shut.
      dainty slipper flats, this prolific designer finds      Sounds like Diana knew best, though his
      himself having yet another unintentional             designs have made frequent cameos on the
      moment. “I have always been doing the same           big screen. “That is something I can do with
      thing, on my terms,” he offers as explanation.       pleasure because I love the atmosphere,”
      And is he aware of his relevance once more?          says the film buff (his movie collection fills
      “Pointed toes started up this year again. You        several rooms in his Bath estate). Today,
      know why? Because it makes women very                Blahnik can count Sofia Coppola’s Marie
      elegant in a funny way,” Blahnik says. “I have       Antoniette, The Hunger Games and “that one
      to think pure and not be intimidated by              about vampires, I don’t even know what it is

                                                                                                                                          SKETCHES, COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK. CELEBRITY PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY IMAGES.
      anything that’s going on around me,” he              called” (try Twilight) as proof.
      contends on the flippant nature of trends.              But before his shoe star was born—or
      “I’ve never followed fashion as such. I really       he even had a proper collection under his
      have formed my own view. Why should I                belt—madcap designer Ossie Clark asked
      change? If I do now that I’m just an old             him to make his runway footwear in 1972.
      boy, I would be betraying myself.”                   Blahnik may have forgotten to add proper
         Manuel “Manolo” Blahnik Rodríguez was             steel supports to the wobbly heels, but still, his
      born in the Canary Islands in 1942, the              cherry-festooned designs quickly caught on.
      eldest child (his sister Evangelina helps run        Practically overnight, Pretty Young Things—
      his office) to a glamorous Spanish mother            from Jane Birkin to Charlotte Rampling and
      and Czech banana plantation owner father.            Marisa Berenson—were skipping about                     ELEGANT BEYOND
      “I had very privileged young years,” he tells        town in Manolos. In a backwards approach,               HER YEARS, ASHLEY
                                                                                                                   OLSEN PRIMARILY
      me. “My mother was exquisite, my father              only then did he begin to master the craft of           WEARS MANOLOS
                                                                                                                   AND USED VINTAGE
      was wonderful and having the bananas                 shoemaking to keep up with his wealth of                CROC STYLES FOR
      around you smells just marvelous,” he adds,          ideas and clients.                                      THE ROW’S RUNWAY.
                                                                                                                   AND EVEN BEFORE
      punctuating each adjective theatrically.                Even still today, he has no design assistants        CARRIE BRADSHAW’S
                                                                                                                   BANK-BREAKING SHOE
      “At the time you could only get bananas in           and sketches every single style himself, whilst         HABIT, SARAH JESSICA
      Europe from the Canary Islands—it was the            fastidiously overseeing production at his               PARKER SOLELY WORE
                                                                                                                   THEM.
      boom years. I realize when I see youngsters          factory on the outskirts of Milan. With crea->

X3 FLARE DECEMBER 2012                                                                                                    www.flare.com
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