PORTFOLIO Mosha Lundström Halbert - EDITOR . WRITER . stylist - mosha lundström halbert
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FO OT W E A R N E WS.C O M / N OV E M B E R 2 8, 2 0 1 6 / @ FO OT W E A R N E WS THE BIG WINNERS Paul Andrew Vetements x Manolo Blahnik Aldo Bensadoun Mark King Foot Locker Kith Schutz Fenty Puma Creeper ➵ Nike Gucci Chiara Ferragni Iris Apfel John Varvatos Nicolò Beretta René Caovilla Linda Fargo QUE E N O F S H O ES Rihanna’s Shoe of the Year tops FN’s 30th annual list, honoring the industry’s best.
FO OT W E A R N E WS.C O M / JA N UA RY 3 0, 20 17 / @ FO OT W E A R N E WS SHOW ISSUE CARTOON NETWORK The hottest pre-fall looks go on an animated adventure AIRING LAUNDRY Behind the scenes of Kristin Cavallari’s new campaign SIRIANO SAYS The quirky designer on profits, Payless and plus-size Star controversies Tracks Katy Perry is serious about creating a hit in the shoe biz. In an FN exclusive, the pop star goes on the record about learning from the pros, keeping it real and her ambitious plans to conquer the fashion world.
L.A. NICOLE RICHIE Actor & designer Between juggling motherhood and a new role on the Tina Fey-produced comedy series “Great News” (debut- ing April 25 on NBC), Nicole Richie has a full dance card. But fashion remains a priority for this notori- ously funny woman, who is equally Stories regarded for her ability to pull off a vintage Dior dress and land a salty joke with aplomb. Her latest venture is a partnership with e-commerce site Revolve on monthly mini-collections of her House of Harlow 1960 wom- enswear collection. While on set in Los Angeles (with her dog Iro), Richie shared more of her style and career insights. PHOTOS: MODEL: PIPER CARLSON AT AMAX TALENT; HAIR: EDWARD ST. GEORGE AT AMAX TALENT; MAKEUP: MEGAN THOMPSON AT AMAX TALENT; PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: JOEL MICAH DENNIS. SHOT ON LOCATION IN NASHVILLE, TENN. When working on a new collection, what is your creative process? “Our family travels all year. In every city, I am constantly taking photos. I carry a camera in my purse — yes, a real camera. Whether it’s a color palette, a texture or a print, I find inspiration everywhere. It’s constant for me. I am always fueling the creative process.” How has your style evolved since your label launched in 2009? “My core philosophy in life and style has always been the same: to have fun, express myself and encourage other women to be true to themselves as well.” Who influences you from a business, career and style perspective? “I am surrounded by inspirational women. I was raised in L.A. It is a vibrant, ever-chang- Inside the uniquely personal ing place, I look to women throughout time that have dressed to make themselves happy workspaces, homes and hangouts of rather than look to trends.” the city’s coolest creatives. Here, Let’s talk shoes: What do you look for? 15 Californian tastemakers wear the “I have to say that I really do consider season’s newest shoes — their way. comfort. I love oxfords and classic Converse. I appreciate beautiful shoes from Valentino, Aquazzura, Giuseppe Zanotti, but it’s not Photographed by Shane McCauley about the designer. Shoes are a place to have Fashion Director: Mosha Lundström Halbert fun and be eccentric.” When you are dressing for a big event, what are some of your secrets? “Well, I am very lucky to be able to work with my friends. The people who do my hair, makeup and styling are some of my nearest and dearest. We play New Kids on the Block and go wild. After a few dances and trying on different outfits, we decide together as girlfriends — even though some of them are guys.” What keeps you happy, healthy and inspired in L.A.? “I always feel healthy after a hike with friends. I am never happier than after a day with my kids, and I find myself being inspired by the Lounging at workspace diversity and excitement of Los Angeles.” Hills Penthouse in West Hollywood What is one thing nobody should leave Sarah Flint Gravati oxfords, Los Angeles without experiencing? House of Harlow 1960 x “A drive down Mulholland.” Revolve dress, Jennifer Fisher necklace 32 53
1B (Dark Background) Slug Right FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M / M AY 3 0 , 2 0 1 6 / @ FO OT W E A R N EWS WOMEN IN POWER HER STORY Sarah Jessica Parker, the ultimate shoe influencer, talks leadership, ambition and rules to live by in an FN exclusive.
SJ P Owns It Innately strategic. Incredibly thoughtful. Determined to make her mark. The ultimate shoe queen opens up about her singular vision and playbook for success. By Mosha Lundström Halbert Photographs by Silja Magg ower. By definition, it is the capacity to direct P the behavior of others. Which is exactly what Sarah Jessica Parker has done over the course of her hotly influential and diverse career. First, by inviting women to live vicariously through her glamorous characters (most notably Carrie Bradshaw), those dream shoes and all. And now, she con- tinues to enable footwear fantasies with her eponymous SJP collection. But in characteristic fashion, Parker would much rather have others talk about how hard she works than belt out her own praises. “I’m part of a generation that feels there’s a slightly unsightly thing about illustrat- ing the reality of it all,” the mom of three said during an exclusive interview and cover shoot for Footwear News. “I want somebody else to say it for me.” It’s not hard to find people who are willing to vouch for her. Three years ago, when she announced her footwear project (in partnership with Manolo Blahnik’s George Malkemus), the industry was excited, but skeptical. While she was long expected to do something with 20 COVER STORY
shoes — a natural fit, with the HBO series “Sex and the City” serving as a cultural zeit- geist for designer heels — no one anticipated the level of involvement she would bring to her brand. “In her own persuasive way, she has taken power of her destiny,” said Malkemus from the plush SJP headquarters in New York City’s Flatiron District. “We have certain notions about big stars. That’s not her at all. She’s everything I ever hoped for in a friend, but nothing I ever dreamed of having in a partner.” He also noted that while she may share a single-soled sensibility with Blahnik, there are marked differences between them: “Manolo is the greatest man to have ever had a relationship with shoes. But he is still a man. She brings a unique way of thinking that was new to me.” Beauty mogul and longtime friend Laura Mercier, whom “I’m tireless. Parker counts as a mentor and I want and business inspiration, agrees she has a lot to offer. “She succeeds expect everyone in transitioning from one thing to approach to another because she is pas- sionate, extremely intelligent the work in the and cultured,” she said. “Plus, same way.” she loves people and always tries Sarah Jessica Parker to be the best at what she does — that is her power.” For Bloomingdale’s, one of SJP’s key retailers, Parker’s lack of airs and willingness to evolve was a welcome sur- prise. “She only wants to get better. I’m con- tinually amazed that with her busy schedule, she is there for our buying appointments,” said fashion director Erica Russo, who also saluted Parker’s genuine desire to connect with shoppers and help them find that per- fect pair of shoes — literally. “She has you at such ease in the first few minutes that you almost forget Sarah Jessica Parker is putting a shoe on your foot.” In this case, that shoe is likely the best-selling Fawn pump or Tartt Mary Jane, two SJP styles the designer often wears. PHOTOS: THIS PAGE: SILJA MAGG; OPPOSITE PAGE: REX SHUTTERSTOCK For Parker, this hands-on approach spans métiers, including her new HBO series, “Divorce,” which debuts this year. “I love detail,” she said. “That’s what distinguishes you. [‘Sex and the City’ architect] Michael Patrick King always said there are two ways of producing television: You’re either in or you’re out. And if you’re in, you should be coming across the finish line bloody. That’s how you get the best roles and work. You gotta be a bitter ender.” Here, Parker opens up on her approach to leadership, female mentorship and why she’s so much more than just a shoe lover. 22 COVER STORY
Early success in music, acting and dance has Zendaya primed to pave a powerful fashion path. By Mosha Lundström Halbert Photographed by Emily Hope
Shirtdress, BCBGMAXAZRIA. Angus lace booties, Daya by Zendaya.
So, you haven’t heard of Zendaya? Don’t fret. The Disney dynamo and millennial fashion phenomenon has no qualms explaining who she is. “If Beyoncé, Oprah [Winfrey] and Shonda Rhimes carpet) and Snapchat (where she is stylist, Law Roach, Zendaya and Titan often seen eating pizza with family or had a baby, that would be me,” quipped the 19-year- regrouped for fall ’16. joking with her parents, Claire Stoermer “It’s the same aesthetic and quality; old actress, singer, dancer and public speaker while and Kazembe Ajamu, who double as we just wanted to make it more afford- on set recently for a Footwear News cover shoot in managers and handlers). able, especially for my fans,” she said. the flower district of Los Angeles. ➵ Like the three The latest medium the Oakland, Calif.- “For my demographic, I’m catering to born Zendaya (the “day” is pronounced as real women who work, are getting their innovators she feels kinship with, Zendaya — who is such) is determined to leave her mark on first jobs or are in college. I want them to 5 feet 10 inches tall with a model’s lean build — has is footwear. Shoes are the celebrity proj- have shoes that make sense for them.” her eyes firmly fixed on multimedia domination, ect du jour, but it can be a tricky category Although she has Christian Loubou- and on her own terms. ➵ She is already well on to get right. The budding businesswoman tin’s Über-vertiginous So Kate pump in knows about the challenges firsthand. “every color” and claims they’re like slip- her way, with a new album in the works and a Her Sole of Daya line launched for pers for her, Zendaya realizes that both 36-million-strong social media following. Her spring ’16 with Titan Industries, the Hun- stylistically and economically, that’s not audience hangs on her every tweet (she’s not afraid tington, Calif.-based footwear licensee. how most of her target audience shops. The market response was that the collec- “I want women to feel expensive, to respond to bigotry from trolls with a snappy tion, while desirable, was too expensive luxurious and beautiful, but not have to retort), Instagram (a perfect showcase for her for the many young women. Along with spend three years saving up for one pair daring, increasingly cool style on and off the red her co-creative director and personal of shoes,” she added. Titan CEO Joe Ouaknine hesitates to call the retooled line a relaunch, standing behind the first collection as “the best of Red 1 them all,” he said. “We stayed with the Carpet iHeartRadio Music Awards same looks, but adjusted our sourcing.” (Titan’s brand portfolio includes Charles Hits Haider Ackermann Jourdan, Badgley Mischka and Splendid; the company formerly produced L.A.M.B The rising boots and Gx by Gwen Stefani.) The new label also has a fresh name: star has 2 Daya by Zendaya. It starts at $70 for slide set the Met Gala sandals and tops out at $125 for mid-calf after-party fashion bar Giuseppe gladiators. The collection will retail at high. Here, Zanotti boots Nordstrom, Kohl’s, Von Mauer, Zappos. Zendaya 3 com and Amazon.com. stands out Kids’ Choice Ouaknine is betting big on Zendaya after initially needing some convinc- in some of PHOTOS: ZENDAYA RED-CARPET: SHUTTERSTOCK Awards ing from Vivienne Westwood U.S. CEO her top looks Sophia Webster Cristiano Mincio that she was indeed a from 2016. platforms bankable name. “[Mincio] said, ‘You have to meet this 4 young artist.’ My first reaction was I don’t Glamour luncheon need another celebrity,” Ouaknine said. Stuart “I promised I would look her up and get Weitzman back to him.” After three follow-ups, he heels agreed to meet with Zendaya and her 1 2 3 4 16
“The factor that made me decide to work with her was her maturity. She told me that she was in charge PHOTO: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX and she would make all the decisions on her own.” —Titan CEO Joe Ouaknine Sweater, Michael Kors. Earrings, Marni. Choker, Adornmonde. 24
father, who oversees her business deals, on the Disney lot where she was rehears- ing for hit TV show “K.C. Undercover.” It didn’t take much convincing. “The second she said one word, I liked her,” Ouaknine remembered. “The factor that made me decide to work with her was her maturity. She told me right then that she was in charge and she would make all the decisions on her own.” From there, he said the talents of the 2014 “Dancing With the Stars” runner- up sealed the deal. “This girl became a fashion icon before the age of 18,” he said. “She is a phenomenon in my eyes.” For his part, Roach had a similar ex- perience of discovering Zendaya’s unique package, albeit even earlier, when she was 12. He’s since become integral to her fashion evolution, most notably in her 2015 Oscars appearance, where her waist- length dreads made headlines after TV personality Giuliana Rancic made some ill-advised comments. The resulting me- dia storm only enhanced the teenager’s fame and reputation as a style risk-taker. “We have this unique synergy. We can finish each other’s sentences,” Roach said. “I’ll know what she wants to say or do. We’ve grown up together. I call her my fashion soul mate.” The duo is now courted by hard-to-crack labels such as Louis Vuitton, Michael Kors and Calvin Klein and pops up together at fashion weeks in New York and Paris. It makes sense, then, that the inseparable pair share the billing as co-creative directors of Daya by Zendaya. “We try to be as hands-on as possible. We look at fabrication and study heel “This girl became a fashion icon before the age of 18. She is a phenomenon in my eyes.” —Titan CEO Joe Ouaknine heights and trends, like what’s selling in which part of the country,” Roach said. “It’s a long, drawn-out process just to get to the shoe. We both didn’t think it Flightsuit: G star. PHOTO: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX would be that much work, but it is. She’s Sports bra: American adamant about having control and input Apparel. Chokers: Adornmonde. on something that has her name on it.” Ring: Simon G. For Zendaya, a shoe must meet certain specifications for her to be satisfied. And with influences such as Louboutin, the star has high standards. “I wouldn’t cre- ate a shoe that I don’t love and wouldn’t put on my own foot,” she said. 18
something she asked early on in the very J.Lo or very Gwen Stefani.’ For us, creative process with Titan’s design team. every look is a new experience.” As a result, Zendaya pushed her While a singular fashion sense may be partners to create a more modernized propelling her brand, Zendaya has much pump, the Kyle, one of her favorites in deeper aspirations. the collection. “I wanted to see a little toe “I’m about empowering young people, cleavage, and that’s something that was women and people of color — every- tricky for Titan,” she said. body,” said Zendaya, whose father is With celebrity lines, blatant copying of African-American and mother is of Dutch high-end designers happens often. That’s descent. There aren’t many people with something both Zendaya and Roach a mixed-race background who have her aimed to avoid. “I don’t want to create platform, and she knows it. “I try my knockoffs,” she said. “I want to create our best to be a light source in a dark world THE KYLE, a modernized pump featuring toe cleavage at own movement and style, even though I sometimes.” Zendaya’s request. “Standard pointy-toe heels all come out don’t believe in trends.” Zendaya recalled the time she met the same,” she said. “I wanted the build of it to look expensive.” At the same time, she added, “I don’t Winfrey and almost cried. “Oprah is one want people to feel like they have the of the dopest people in the world. When W look for less; I want them to have the you think of her brand, it’s positive,” she HEN IT COMES TO the technical look that just happens to be for less.” said. “If she says it’s the best tea in the Zendaya’s mother, Stoermer, who world, you will drink that tea because aspects of shoemaking, her oversees her calendar and social media, she’s trusted. She’s charitable and there is opinionated nature and know-how said this command of her brand and “the a meaning to her projects.” PRODUCTION EDITOR: EMILY TAYLOR. ZENDAYA’S STYLIST: LAW ROACH. HAIR: RAY DODSON. PHOTO ASSISTANT: SERENA HERRICK. ZENDAYA AND ROACH PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRADFORD ROGNE are impressive for someone with zero design buck stops here” attitude are integral to Similarly, she admires Rhimes, creator experience. ➵ “[Titan] is cool and great to work her daughter’s success. “Everything is her. of “Grey’s Anatomy,” “Scandal” and other She oversees it all,” she said. “It’s always big shows. “The woman is a genius. She with because they are very open to all of the little her voice; she’s always stayed authentic.” creates gold and owns a night [on TV]. obsessive details I have,” she said, citing the cut Bonnie Fuller, editor-in-chief of celeb- I want to own a night,” said the actress, of the vamp and throat and height of the pitch as rity site Hollywood Life (owned by FN who just wrapped “The Greatest Show- parent Penske Media), has been chart- man on Earth” with Hugh Jackman and key focal points. “I am all about a good ‘foot shoe,’ ing her rapid rise and said Zendaya’s is filming “Spider-Man: Homecoming” meaning I want it to look good on my foot. There is style has allowed her to stand out. “She’s with Robert Downey Jr. “She also creates nothing worse than a shoe that doesn’t make your incredibly versatile and not somebody roles and representation for different leg look good. That irritates me.” that’s locked into one style,” Fuller said. types of people on camera.” “Her appeal is also that she can be Zendaya’s third hero recently em- On set with FN in her collection’s casual and relatable one day and then go braced the budding star. Beyoncé invited strappy pumps, platform sandals super-sophisticated or bold the next. She the rising star to appear in scenes from and cutout booties, Zendaya glides changes her look more than any other her “Lemonade” visual album. On that effortlessly, but recognizes she possesses young star.” experience, she has “no words.” a special grace and groove. “I’ve trained This element of surprise is exactly Right now, Zendaya certainly has a lot my feet to [wear high heels], but not the intended result, according to Roach. to beam about. “When it comes to fash- everybody wants to do that. How do “You can’t just look at something and say, ion and life, a lot of things I do are pow- I get the lower pitch but still have it ‘That’s Zendaya,’ ” he said. “As opposed to ered by how I feel, what makes me smile look good?” she said, noting that was other people you look at and say, ‘That’s and what makes me happy,” she said. ] Obeying the Law As Zendaya’s stylist and co-creative director of Daya by Zendaya, Law Roach is her secret weapon when it comes to creating a fashion identity. The L.A.-based risk-taker also tends to the fashion needs of Ariana Grande, Skai Jackson and Celine Dion. He also is a judge on the upcoming “America’s Next Top Model.” Law sheds some light on the quirky ways he works. — By Charlie Carballo On how “I met her through a On how “A shoe can On how “It’s a real thing. It’s On his “I’ve always been ob- he and close friend of their his head- inspire a dress or a they not just stylist-artist, path to sessed with vintage, Zendaya family. I was just in to-toe hairstyle I’ve been collabo- stylist-client. She’s styling: so I would go to a lot met: the right place at the looks thinking about. [In rate on my boss, but it’s this of resale stores [and] right time on the day come preparing to do the] styling: real, natural organic estate sales, and [I] Justin Bieber had a together : hair and makeup thing that we have. started to collect this huge collec- premiere for his ‘Never Say Never’ for the Met Gala, She’s not afraid of tion. I had friends over, and they film. She was going shopping to I watched ‘Conan anything, so that makes it even [said], ‘I’ll buy that from you.’ That figure out something to wear. The the Barbarian,’ and I wanted to do more fun. Like [during the FN turned into opening up a couple of family friend said I was a great something reptilian-looking mixed shoot], I said, ‘Let’s do braids like boutiques, which led to styling.” stylist, but I wasn’t a stylist at the with something Cleopatra. We did A$AP Rocky,’ and she said, ‘OK.’” time, per se. We went shopping a customized Stuart Weitzman and have been friends ever since.” shoe for the occassion.” 19
FO OT W E A R N E WS.C O M / AU G UST 3, 2 0 1 5 / @ FO OT W E A R N E WS SHOW ISSUE HAMPTONS HEAT UP Pop ups. Parties. Retailers fight for exposure. Is it working? PICTURE PERFECT Designers dare to bare with graphics & leather ALONG THE WAY Six shoe stars talk to us — and their younger selves — about career paths THE GIRLS! They’re the most-followed teenagers on the planet. Kendall and Kylie Jenner exclusively reveal their sure-to-go-viral shoe collection.
PHOTO: NIKKO LA MERE Kendall and Kylie (center) with models in Los Angeles last week
The Reality Shoe endall and Kylie Jenner are K piping hot. And no wonder. They are the world’s most famous and arguably most powerful teenagers — and there is no air conditioning. It’s a scorching afternoon in Los Angeles and the girls are sweltering in a loft showroom downtown — an Art Nouveau converted factory space in the garment district with nothing but heir- loom fans barely mustering a breeze. Both are dressed in figure-hugging, all-black looks. Kendall wears a blouse plunged to the navel with a gold buckled belt, while Kylie is poured into floor-sweeping flared trousers and a crop top. They sit at a long barnwood table flicking through their phones, which one imagines are also quite warm to the touch from an endless flow of “likes” from their approximately 103 mil- lion combined followers worldwide. They are framed by two models wearing looks from their premiere full-scale inde- pendent label, Kendall + Kylie. Completing the scene are racks of the spring ’16 col- lection, which includes apparel, swimwear and, most importantly, shoes. Footwear News’ exclusive first look is also the sisters’ first time seeing the line together as a whole. It’s a big moment. “I really love it. We’ve been excited about this for a while,” said Kendall, 19, surveying the smattering of Polaroids of her favorite pieces scattered in front of her. “We’ve been working on it for about a year, but it’s so cool to see everything in person.” The full-scale brand, positioned as a contemporary line, with most clothing From early shoe memories to their ambitious foray capped at $250 and footwear ranging from into footwear and beyond, an exclusive inside look at Kendall and Kylie Jenner’s biggest story yet. By Mosha Lundström Halbert
$89 to $160, is being developed by license-holder and shoes we have created are so much different Indochine International. than what we would have done two years ago.” After an initial shoe launch with Modern Vin- The Madden deal gave them a crash course in tage LLC last season through brothers Rick and footwear. “From him, we learned about what sells, Brian Cytrynbaum, the shoe license was pur- what people are drawn to and also how it’s made,” chased by Marc Fisher in June after only a month said Kylie. “We visited the [sampling] factories of negotiations. Moving quickly, Kendall + Kylie on Long Island. That was amazing — there are so Creative Director Chelsea Santry worked with the many elements that go into shoes.” Fisher team and the girls to have the footwear col- The new footwear collection will include about lection done in time for this week’s FFANY show. 70 styles for spring ’16, with an emphasis on what “Kendall and Kylie share a unique relationship Itzkowitz calls a mix of “sexy dress and casual with their audience that is uncompromisingly cool” silhouettes. “The girls are reinventing dress personal, in the moment and shoes in a fresh way that will surely trusted,” said Susan Itzkowitz, “My older sister appeal to their wide fan base.” The president of Marc Fisher Foot- results? Strappy stilettos, sharp wear. “They have mass appeal, Kourtney has pumps, pointed mules, flatforms which young girls and women small feet. There and the odd flat sandal, all done in a alike seek to emulate.” streamlined palette to complement was a time when the apparel’s overall neutrality. S ince the sisters are I was really Santry, who first worked with the part of the juggernaut girls on their Topshop capsule, sees that is the Kardashian young where the shoes as an important element for clan, this is not the I would fit in her this more elevated brand. “The collec- first time (nor the last) that products have been shoes. That was tion is more sophisticated. It’s much more like what you see them wear,” produced bearing their names. always fun. ” she said. Having previously worked Earlier deals included a juniors’ Kylie Jenner with another superstar sibling set — line with Pac Sun, a collaboration Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen — on with Steve Madden and a recent their Textile denim line, Santry is capsule collection for Topshop. But Kylie, who it keenly aware of both the power and the complexi- is easy to forget is just 17, sees Kendall + Kylie as ties of the Jenner story. their most polished project yet. “The time is different. Mary Kate and Ashley “Our collections have evolved with us and our were the first to do it, but these girls take it to a fans,” she said, looking up from her phone when whole other level with social media and how they asked what she’s learned from previous adven- market themselves. Their accounts are so ‘them.’ The duo at the ESPYs 2015 tures in branding. “It’s fun because the clothes Nothing is contrived about it. When you look at how big they are and their reach, it’s refreshing to Kendall + Kylie spring ‘16 believe it’s actually, genuinely coming from them.” PHOTOS: FOOTWEAR: NIKKO LA MERE; ESPYS: GETTY; IMAGES BALMAIN CAMPAIGN; COURTESY OF BRAND Kylie, the most-viewed user on Snapchat at press time, is acutely aware that online platforms can ensure that the collection performs well on the sales floor or an e-commerce site. “Social me- dia is super-important,” she said. “A lot of people ‘like’ what we wear and what we love. Why not wear your own stuff ?” What Santry did not fully anticipate was how in-the-mix Kendall and Kylie wanted to be from the get-go. “I thought they would just want to come and in and say ‘this is cool, that’s great,’ but they actually want to be a lot more involved,” she said, noting that despite thorough research, her team has occasionally missed the mark and had the girls veto an idea — something she welcomes. “I watched a lot of ‘Keeping Up With the Kar- dashians’ and looked at a ton of shots of them on the Internet. At some point, it felt like stalking,” Santry joked. From there, she and the Jenners had regular in-person design meetings to discuss 22 Kendall and Kylie have both sported their brother-in-law Kanye West’s sell-out Adidas Yeezy Boost kicks recently.
concepts, colors, fabrics and prints. With the Balmain fall ’15 quick turnaround of the footwear collection campaign this season, most of the girls’ involvement has been over e-mail. I t’s clear that shoes are a topic that grabs their attention (away from iPhones), loosens those media-trained strings and brings a sparkle to the sisters’ extremely lashed eyes. Even in the sweltering showroom, shoe talk proves to be the icebreaker. “Growing up, we would always steal my mom’s heels,” said Kendall. “My older sister Kourtney has small feet. There was a time when I was really young where I would fit in her shoes. That was always fun,” added Kylie. Of course, momager Kris Jenner has this amply documented. “We have really old videos when we were babies walking around in her heels that didn’t fit us at all,” said Kendall, who also dipped her toes into Kourtney’s shoe col- lection at a young age. “She’s a size 5. When I was growing up, first I would get her hand-me- downs until I grew out of them. Then I would get Kim’s. Once I grew out of those, it was on tinct power of a little lift. “Heels make me feel to my mom’s.” so much better. I’m not as skinny as Kendall, so The Kardashians have influenced a glam- when I’m in heels, it makes my legs look longer orous, perma-camera-ready approach to the and slimmer.” Jenner girls’ aesthetic. But when asked if any They both admit to a serious shoe-shopping of their boldface family members have seen habit, which is in line with a recent “inspira- pieces of the Kendall + Kylie line, the response tional quote” post on their @KendallandKylie is quick. “They haven’t,” Kendall said. “We don’t Instagram. It reads “Life is short. Buy the shoes.” want their opinion on it because we want it to “They are my favorite thing to shop for,” Kylie be very ‘us.’ We don’t show them anything until sighed. “Some days, I’ll just go to Barneys and it’s done and out.” Too many cooks in the Cala- try on as many as I can. I love buying shoes,” she basas kitchen can’t be a good thing, I suggest. mused, citing Gianvito Rossi, whose heels she is “Exactly,” she agrees. “We all have similar styles wearing, as a favorite. “He’s amazing. Oh — and but different tastes.” Alaïa. Expensive, but the best.” Kendall’s more assured mien stems from her “Yes!” agreed Kendall. “Best shoes. Balencia- The sisters unprecedented success moonlighting as a top ga, too — they kill it every time.” She lifts her leg at a Topshop model, with contracts from Chanel and Given- to rest her gold Manolo Blahnik BB on the table event chy to Estée Lauder. The duo also star together near Kylie, who begins to rub her foot. “I really in the fall ’15 Balmain campaign. And their high- love Manolos. They are super-classic. And they profile adolescence has exposed them to the best have all the good colors.” K footwear. “Just being able to experience all these different shoes that we’ve worn has taught us endall + Kylie CEO Gary Hunt (who what we like and don’t like,” Kendall said. “That also oversees their Pac Sun juniors’ definitely helps.” collection) is banking on the girls’ While they see eye-to-eye on most design newly discerning, and let’s face it, choices, footwear can divide them. “My sisters expensive tastes translating to more “We have really old tend to wear heels, but I’m super into flats,” said budget-conscious customers. Initially, Hunt Kendall, noting that the collection will have is targeting a tight edit of chain and specialty videos when we were lower styles as well. retailers. babies walking around Kylie isn’t having it. “I don’t wear flats. Ever. “When we first did this, the goal was always I don’t own a pair, not even gladiators,” she said. to take them worldwide. So yes, we’ve seen the in [our mom’s] heels “Just a few sneakers — that’s the only time I’ll brand change significantly as they have gotten that didn’t fit us.” wear a flat.” Already, she’s caught on to the dis- older and their interests have changed,” he said, Kendall Jenner 23
noting that on the brand’s social media, 70 percent of the sisters’ followers are Marc Jacobs from the U.S, followed by Canada, the FOOT U.K. and Australia. “As they’ve seen what their [older] sisters have done in fash- ion,” Hunt said, “it’s brought out their NOTES desire to be a part of it. And as a model, Kendall has gotten such great experience working with designers.” Hunt added that it’s too early for sales targets. “We are focusing on the process The sisters sound off and investing in that. We’ve spoken to on fashion, footwear most of the major department stores, and the interest level is extremely high and life in the fast lane. Givenchy — almost too high. We want to scale You, in shoe form? it back and intelligently manage the “I’m a lace-up thigh-high.” launch to make a good first impression.” — Kylie Craziest runway shoe? That potential is hard to ignore. In “I wore these shoes for Marc Jacobs that were just like a fact, as Hunt is offering his strategy, “I’m like a cool boot heel. Or a bright heel with the top [upper] all just laces. They taped our feet Kylie and Kendall are doing a little prod- metallic pump, like my Manolos.” in, and it was super-sticky. I had tape on my feet for like uct-seeding by providing his team with — Kendall three days afterwards.” — Kendall a list of friends they want to gift specific pieces to immediately. Pink Post-its Shoe don’ts? Sibling with the bearing the names of their inner circle “I’m not into clogs. most shoes? No, you won’t find a “Khloe. She has a — which includes Taylor Swift, Gigi and Kendall + Kylie clog.” ton — the most of Bella Hadid, Hailey Baldwin and Cara — Kendall any of us. Now, she Delevingne — are attached to samples Prada and I are both a size destined for highly connected members “But you know what I like? 40. It’s the best. The of what’s been called the new Brat Pack. Prada just came out with the other day, she had “[But] dopest heels with wooden With sister to get rid of a lot of “Just being able people we soles. I like the wood vibe, but Khloe Kardashian her shoes because it has to be done right.” she had too many. to experience all know who support us — Kylie She gave away 26 these different wouldn’t pairs, and I almost cried.” — Kendall shoes that we’ve wear some- thing if What would someone be surprised to discover if How has your style evolved? worn has taught they didn’t they spent a day in your shoes? “Probably that I’m not that confident — it’s sad, I know. “Going through puberty, you get us what we like it,” said Kendall. People would be surprised to know that. But I like to tits, an ass and you learn how to dress for your body. That’s think that I rock everything I wear, and shoes can make like and don’t Santry you more confident.” something we both had to figure 2008 like. It definitely them hav- appreciates — Kylie out. You get more confident with yourself and what you like. helps.” ing Swifty “Maybe that I’m more fun than I look!” Everyone’s always changing — liking things for five minutes and & Co. on — Kendall Kendall Jenner then moving on.” — Kendall speed-dial. PHOTOS: FOOTWEAR: COURTESY OF BRANDS; RUNWAY, JENNERS: GETTY IMAGES Favorite Shoes? “They are naturally genius marketers,” Azzedine “Givenchy has really great shoes.” Santry said, relishing this relatively Alaïa — Kylie Career advice? low-cost, covetable, highly effective form “Our family did a good job of teaching us to stay humble. of Internet-centric celebrity placement. “And they are actually pretty comfortable.” I’ve heard this from so many “Traditional routes aren’t targeted — Kendall people — you’ve got to find enough to keep up with their following,” your balance. Make time for Hunt agreed. “I can barely keep up.” work, family, friends. That’s “Alaia! Best heels. I like Chanel’s With Speaking of keeping up, while it’s still the key to keeping sane. If boots a lot.” mom early in the game, chances are the older — Kendall Kris you are taking, you can give. Kardashians will soon be outpaced by Chanel So if you take the time for their younger, more socially engaged and “Oh, yes — Alaia, too! They are yourself, you’re going to agile Jenner siblings. super-expensive but some of my give more when you are out there working.” And if the footwear is anything to go favorite shoes.“ — Kylie — Kendall by, they better buckle-up those booties. “We will be wearing it,” Kendall said. 24
FOOTWEAR NEWS SPY AUGUST 20 1 5 Gaming Las Vegas Showgirl styles, SUM Instagram stars & killer shoes for strutting The Strip Piping Hot BLONDE Summer sandals get tropical for resort ’16 The world’s most popular fashion blogger has followers racing to be in her shoes — and Chiara Ferragni is just getting started.
# Ferragni, photographed for FN at The New York Edition
EYES She’s already a superstar in the social media world and a front- ON row regular. Now, Chiara Ferragni is determined to conquer the shoe THE business — and she’s off to a A personal appearance at Apropos in Berlin roaring start. By Mosha Lundström PRIZE Halbert # Photographed by Leslie Kirchhoff At Paris Fashion Week world, the Cremona, Italy–born, Harvard published a 16-page Los Angeles–based Ferragni has case study on her last year (cue a rapt audience at her fingertips. #theblondesaladgoestoharvard The millennial community she has photo op). strategically cultivated is eager to How did a law student who At Milan Fashion Week click, share and most importantly began posting amateur outfit consume whatever she shows shots online in 2009 emerge as a them, be they collaborations with fashion force to be reckoned with? theblondesaladneverstops. That’s Steve Madden and Superga or Very carefully, it turns out, with Chiara Ferragni’s catchphrase paid posts for, say, Ca’ del Bosco, highly calculated precision fueled on Instagram, where she has At Haute Couture a wine company — all recent side by her huge fan base. Fashion Week more than 4.7 million followers projects. And now she’s setting “So many people were spanning three accounts. The her sights on the shoe world, interested in what I was doing word mashup — a reference to where her Chiara Ferragni from the beginning,” said Ferragni her peripatetic pace — has been Collection is expected to pull one recent afternoon from her hashtagged tens of thousands in more than 10 million euros, suite at New York City’s The of times. It’s a fitting mantra or about $11 million at current Edition hotel. She’s all-angles thin, for the driven 28-year-old, who exchange, in 2016. with a photogenic head of mussed today sits at the very apex of the While some might be skeptical amber waves — a shade that isn’t web-lebrity pyramid. of her power, one can’t just quite blonde anymore. Widely considered the top write Ferragni off as yet another Not that it matters these days, personal style blogger in the blogger, particularly when with her evolving brand and Ferragni was the first blogger to grace the cover of Vogue, appearing on the Spanish edition’s April 2015 issue. 27
theblondesalad.com now functioning pit stops a priority every season. as an editorial site that attracts luxury “My designers are amazing. I’ve advertisers. The bulk of the content is always loved their style. It changed the created by her 18-strong team in Milan. whole concept once I put them in place,” Known for her of-the-moment fashion she said. “Now we brainstorm and go sense, today Ferragni is wearing a through the creative process together. relatively pared-down outfit: a striped They understand what I love. When they Stefanel sweater and vintage tailored come to me with ideas, it’s rare that it’s jeans by Redone. One’s gaze can’t help something I wouldn’t wear.” but go straight to her shoes — a pair of Ferragni’s transparency and candor Chiara Ferragni Collection pointed loafers when it comes to her involvement in her covered in glitter, featuring her go-to collection is refreshing, particularly in an ocular motif on the toe. “The flirty eye is age when countless bloggers, actors, pop our signature,” she said of the label, which and reality stars claim to have “designed” is a separate entity from The Blonde Salad. or “collaborated on” collections when “I have a bit of an obsession with eyes they might have merely been on an e-mail and always want to use them.” The first chain — or, in some cases, just blindly collection debuted for fall 2010, and this doled out their name for a fat sum. There detail is now just as recognizable — and, is no entitled appropriation of the word indeed, ’gram-able — as Ferragni herself. “designer” here. Perhaps because it’s B footwear, and Ferragni is from Italy, home ut while her shoes might appear to the very best, she knows better than to less than serious, Ferragni cares misrepresent her skill set. deeply about their made-in-Italy “I’m more the creative director,” she quality as she aggressively works said with no qualms. “I mean, I cannot to grow her business. (Her cut is design shoes. It’s my ideas, and they 10 percent of profits.) translate them into the designs. I’ve never “When I started, I didn’t have any done fashion school or anything like that. idea of production or how things worked But I have good instincts.” in footwear,” she said in her rapid-fire, It certainly helps that those instincts accented English, with her French bulldog, can be verified in virtual nanoseconds via Matilda, on her lap. “I’ve always been into her followers, who act as a sounding board shoes and bags. Shoes, I’ve always felt like for the shoes, which she often wears, I could do. And there is much more space snaps and posts. A for new people [today],” she explained. “But bags are such a different, difficult lessio Sanzogni — GM of The product. I already have so many favorites, Blonde Salad (or TBS) and the and they are the iconic brands.” Indeed, on Chiara Ferragni Collection, who her feeds, there’s a steady stream of Birkin, formerly headed digital at Louis Celine, Chanel and the like. Vuitton in Italy — attests that With Calvin Klein Together with her CEO/co-founder the brand relies heavily on social media Creative Director and former boyfriend, Riccardo Pozzoli, for direction. “Reading our comments is Francisco Costa Ferragni initially entered a footwear- like having a consulting firm. They are at the 2015 Met Gala license agreement before taking super-picky and don’t think twice about ownership with the help of an angel giving feedback,” he said. Ferragni said investor and a sales manager in 2013. she reads and applies the input. “I receive Next, they hired a three-person design such instant comments on what I post. I’m team in Milan. Despite the nine-hour so aware of everything that is happening time difference between California around me in the fashion scene. So now I and Italy, Ferragni stays in constant get to know immediately if a lot of people contact with the designers and visits the will like a shoe.” headquarters about every month and a And “like” them they do. The collection, half for a week. She also makes factory which retails from $217 to $400, includes CHIARA ON ... The appeal of her line: “It’s not for everyone. My shoes Footwear learning curves: “It’s much more difficult than Her current base: “My home is in L.A. There are A spring ’16 pump are not simple nor minimalist. it looks like, especially when so many young, creative people Being a brand: There are so many other brands you decide to make things in there. All of my friends do “We don’t want this to be that do that very well. But I want Italy. So many people we tried something artistic. It’s a good celebrity merchandise. It has to to be something else. I want to work with for production lifestyle and not too expensive. be a full collection with its own to be pop, fun and at the same said that what we wanted to Everybody works hard but takes At Paris identity, disconnected from me time accessible to people of all do wasn’t possible. But I didn’t time for themselves, which is Fashion PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES as a personality. I don’t wear it ages — including those who are want something indifferent. You very important at this time in Week every day or have to promote it older than me. That’s what we really have to select the people my life. When I travel, I work all the time. It has to be strong are working on. The collections you work with. When you trust 99 percent of the time. When by itself. Then of course, I’m keep getting better and more them, everything comes easily.” I am back in L.A., I work too, proud, so I try to wear it.” focused.” but I always have some days completely off.” 28
“I’m more the creative director. I cannot design shoes. But I have good instincts.” Chiara Ferragni A shot from the fall ’15 campaign espadrilles, sandals, flats, sneakers, pumps capsule together this month, and Oliveros and boots. None of them could be described sees great potential for the brand. “She as basic, nor discreet, with interchangeable should continue to home in on what works Velcro emoticon patches and personal slogans for her — from an evolution perspective, she across the toe box like “Never Stop” in has already grown,” he said. “She’s definitely block caps. on the right path.” F While the footwear is definitely loud, it’s hard to knock Ferragni — whose own ellow online influencers, twin sisters aesthetic can skew a tad flashy — when major Caillianne and Samantha Beckerman retailers such as Level Shoe District, Nastygal. of Beckerman Blog, admire their com, Shopbop.com, Harvey Nichols, Brown’s friend’s ability to translate her persona Shoes, Saks and Nordstrom are lining up into a bankable business. “Her shoe to stock the label. “When we started, we line fits who she is perfectly,” said Samantha wanted to be in the best stores. By being Beckerman. “We went to her party at Le very selective with our product, we got there, Bon Marché Paris last year, and there were beside so many other great shoe designers of hundreds of fans there lined up to see her. my dreams,” Ferragni said, beaming. (Still, She just has that energy.” Caillianne added when asked what shoe designers she admires, that with Ferragni’s friendly, hyper-positive it’s the one time she does, well, stop, drawing demeanor, she is inclusive versus exclusive. a blank.) “They feel like they know her through her blog For stores, the appeal of Ferragni’s line is and Instagram. And with her shoe line, people as much about her as the shoes. For instance, feel like they can be a part of her posse. That’s in 2014, Level Shoe District in Dubai got really appealing.” a buzzy boost from Ferragni’s in-store The footwear piece of the Ferragni pie appearance to launch exclusive styles. “The continues to develop with an expansion response was phenomenal,” said merchandise focusing on the U.S. market — the brand will and buying manager Alberto Oliveros, who be on the floor in Las Vegas this week. “My added that 300 pairs were sold within three following is international. I get recognized hours. “Chiara’s shoe collection is quirky everywhere,” she said. (The proof is in the and fun — it speaks to our contemporary paparazzi shots.) “I wear my shoes a lot. Eyes appear throughout clientele, who are very social media savvy.” I love saying it’s my brand.” Because right now, Ferragni’s fall ’15 and The partners are launching a new espadrille Ferragni is where it’s @. spring ’16 collections 30
STYLE After 40 years in the business, Manolo Blahnik is having a moment (again!) by sticking to exactly what he does best: brilliant shoes BY MOSHA LUNDSTRÖM HALBERT RENAISSANCE MANOLO SUDDENLY, UNEXPECTEDLY, BUT WITH Royal Agricultural Winter Fair. A call is great bravado, Manolo Blahnik begins to made. Countless emails between Blahnik’s sing. “Watching me get undressed. La la la New York and London offices are fired off. la la la. Go play a video gameee,” he purrs Weeks, then months pass. I start to accept from over the pond. “I am mad, just mad that the closest I’ll get to MB are the about Lana Del Rey because she is kind of pointed toe suede BB pumps I bought in a an unbalanced and sad thing.” last ditch effort to send a sort of smoke PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK. FOR WHERE TO BUY, SEE STYLESOURCE. Okay, so we are speaking via telephone signal his way. Then one morning, his (ABOVE): FOOTWEAR (he ensconced at his London HQ, me in my abrupt press attaché Karolina rings. “Mr. PHENOM- Toronto cubicle), but I imagine he has leapt Blahnik is able to do this interview today. ENON MANOLO BLAHNIK, to his feet in his signature gray suit and Call us back in 10 minutes.” Click. “Mr. DESIGNER OF PEERLESS bowtie to belt out the song with great style. Blahnik?” says this reporter exactly 600 PUMPS (MAIN SHOT): THE BB, It’s a telling gesture, evidence that at 70, this seconds later. “Ms. Lundström?” he coos $595, FROM HIS prolific, CBE-holding designer is both in the right back. And we’re off. FALL 2012 COLLECTION. moment and of it. Designing unwavering The timing of our conversation is spot footwear that is not quite classic, but never, on. After the past few seasons of extremely ever trendy either, all the while keeping a dangerous, borderline farcical footwear, the finger—or in the case of his creations, a platform-less, triangular-toed, delicate heel toe—on the cultural pulse. has returned to favour. On-the-go women But let’s back up a bit. This memorable such as Rihanna, Victoria Beckham (who snippet has come after months of working he collaborated with for the first time on various angles to secure precious time with her Spring ’13 open-toe boots) and, well, Blahnik. A friend at family shoe business me, who were fed up with stumbling their Davids Footwear, Richard Markowitz, knows way through city streets, ankles quivering his brand president George Malkemus, an with fear, have turned to his elegant avid dairy farmer who frequents Toronto’s creations as an antidote, while longtime > X2 FLARE DECEMBER 2012 www.flare.com
STYLE LATELY, VIXENS VICTORIA BECKHAM AND RIHANNA HAVE DONE AWAY WITH today how extraordinary growing up in the BRASH PLATFORMS IN FAVOUR OF fifties was. You’ve seen Mad Men, yes? It was BLAHNIK’S FLATTER- more or less like that.” ING CUTOUT “Mad”(a favourite Manolo word) is also STYLES AND STRAPPY how he endearingly describes his “groomed SANDALS. to death, absolutely beautiful” mother’s love of fashion, with frequent visits to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s ateliers in Madrid and Paris. “Things on the islands were not like any- where in the world. We had to wait for BLAHNIK’S SKETCHES materials, chiffons, even shoes, so she would OF HIS RED HOT make things herself,” he remembers. “She VULGARA even went to this [cobbler] and asked him to AND MOLO HEELS teach her how to make shoes.” After this potassium-rich, posh youth, Blahnik’s father sent him off to study politics and law at University of Geneva in the false hope he would become a diplomat. “Abso- devotees (Anna Wintour, Sarah Jessica lutely horrrrrrrrible,” he recounts. He quickly Parker and Ashley Olsen) smugly contin- switched disciplines to architecture and ued their unencumbered strides. literature, but it still wasn’t right, so he What is it like to have been right all along? decamped to Paris and studied set design. AR s bestor RD “You know I hate platforms,” he starts, voice Upon graduation, Blahnik flew to New York archly rising in pitch. “Vulgar. That’s what I to look for work in film or theatre. A meeting GU now the UA D st y: think of them and that kind of gaudiness. arranged by friend Paloma Picasso with D olo rkal of G I call them celebrity stuff—all those awful legendary editor Diana Vreeland, then of OL Maen mo EW shoes. You can buy them on Hollywood American Vogue, changed everything. He Boulevard by the pound for half what you showed her a portfolio of sketches, including N pay in Europe.” a few of his whimsical footwear musings. Clearly, Manolo knows best. After 40 years “Just stick to shoes,” he remembers her Th of turning out signature spindly stilettos and extolling, snapping his book shut. dainty slipper flats, this prolific designer finds Sounds like Diana knew best, though his himself having yet another unintentional designs have made frequent cameos on the moment. “I have always been doing the same big screen. “That is something I can do with thing, on my terms,” he offers as explanation. pleasure because I love the atmosphere,” And is he aware of his relevance once more? says the film buff (his movie collection fills “Pointed toes started up this year again. You several rooms in his Bath estate). Today, know why? Because it makes women very Blahnik can count Sofia Coppola’s Marie elegant in a funny way,” Blahnik says. “I have Antoniette, The Hunger Games and “that one to think pure and not be intimidated by about vampires, I don’t even know what it is SKETCHES, COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK. CELEBRITY PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY IMAGES. anything that’s going on around me,” he called” (try Twilight) as proof. contends on the flippant nature of trends. But before his shoe star was born—or “I’ve never followed fashion as such. I really he even had a proper collection under his have formed my own view. Why should I belt—madcap designer Ossie Clark asked change? If I do now that I’m just an old him to make his runway footwear in 1972. boy, I would be betraying myself.” Blahnik may have forgotten to add proper Manuel “Manolo” Blahnik Rodríguez was steel supports to the wobbly heels, but still, his born in the Canary Islands in 1942, the cherry-festooned designs quickly caught on. eldest child (his sister Evangelina helps run Practically overnight, Pretty Young Things— his office) to a glamorous Spanish mother from Jane Birkin to Charlotte Rampling and and Czech banana plantation owner father. Marisa Berenson—were skipping about ELEGANT BEYOND “I had very privileged young years,” he tells town in Manolos. In a backwards approach, HER YEARS, ASHLEY OLSEN PRIMARILY me. “My mother was exquisite, my father only then did he begin to master the craft of WEARS MANOLOS AND USED VINTAGE was wonderful and having the bananas shoemaking to keep up with his wealth of CROC STYLES FOR around you smells just marvelous,” he adds, ideas and clients. THE ROW’S RUNWAY. AND EVEN BEFORE punctuating each adjective theatrically. Even still today, he has no design assistants CARRIE BRADSHAW’S BANK-BREAKING SHOE “At the time you could only get bananas in and sketches every single style himself, whilst HABIT, SARAH JESSICA Europe from the Canary Islands—it was the fastidiously overseeing production at his PARKER SOLELY WORE THEM. boom years. I realize when I see youngsters factory on the outskirts of Milan. With crea-> X3 FLARE DECEMBER 2012 www.flare.com
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