NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST - CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY - Craenen
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST CRISTIAN BO NE T TO BRENDAN SAINSBU RY
Contents Plan Your Trip 4 Welcome to Naples & the Amalfi Coast..................4 Top Sights.............................6 Eating..................................10 Drinking & Nightlife...........12 Shopping.............................14 Archaeology.......................16 Architecture & Art............. 17 Tours & Courses................18 For Kids...............................19 Four Perfect Days............. 20 Need to Know.................... 22 Naples & the Amalfi Coast Neighbourhoods............... 24 Pompeii (p92) JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Explore Survival Naples & the Guide 143 Amalfi Coast 27 Before You Go................. 144 Centro Storico.................. 29 Arriving in Naples............145 Toledo & Getting Around............... 146 Quartieri Spagnoli............. 51 Essential Information.... 148 La Sanità & Language..........................152 Capodimonte.................... 65 Index................................. 156 Santa Lucia & Chiaia.........77 Capri Town & the Isle of Capri................107 Special Features Sorrento & the Amalfi Coast.............. 121 Capella Sansevero............ 30 Duomo................................ 32 Worth a Trip Museo Archeologico Nazionale........................... 52 Certosa e Museo di San Martino....................74 Palazzo Reale.................... 56 Pompeii.............................. 92 Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte................ 66 Mt Vesuvius....................... 98 Historic Villas.................. 108 Herculaneum (Ercolano)........................ 100 Positano............................122 Reggia di Caserta........... 104 Ravello...............................128
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Naples & the Amalfi Coast Naples is raw, high-octane energy, a place of soul-stirring art and pano- ramas, spontaneous conversations and unexpected elegance. It’s here that you’ll find Italy’s most intoxicating street life, and many of its most extraordinary paintings, sculptures and architectural treasures, not to mention its finest pizza and espresso. Beyond it lies the seraphic Amalfi Coast, seducer of artists and hopeless romantics for centuries.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Top Sights 6 Museo Archeologico Nazionale Priceless ancient art and artefacts. p52 Plan Your Trip Top Sights BJANKA KADIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
7 Palazzo L. ROMANO/MUSEO E REAL BOSCO DI CAPODIMONTE © Reale di Capodimonte Masterpieces in a Bourbon palace. p66 Plan Your Trip Top Sights JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Pompeii A town frozen in time. p92 Capella MARCO CANTILE/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES © Sansevero Extraordinary sculptures, legend and alchemy. p30
8 Certosa e Museo di Palazzo Reale San Martino A treasure-filled royal palace. p56 Hilltop monastery treasures. p74 JAVEN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Plan Your Trip Top Sights ERIC VALENNE GEOSTORY/SHUTTERSTOCK © LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK © CORTYN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Capri Villas Reggia di Caserta Evocative, legend-laced island Italy’s largest, most breathtaking hideaways. p108 palace. p104
9 Positano Duomo The Amalfi Coast’s photogenic Naples’ glorious, centuries- protagonist. p122 spanning cathedral. p32 LEOKS/SHUTTERSTOCK © Plan Your Trip Top Sights MITZO/SHUTTERSTOCK © NEIRFY/SHUTTERSTOCK © BRENDA KEAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Ravello Herculaneum (Ercolano) Terraced gardens and famous A compact Roman time machine. fans. p128 p100
20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Four Perfect Days Day 1 Day 2 Plan Your Trip Four Perfect Days TOMASZ WOZNIAK/SHUTTERSTOCK © INU/SHUTTERSTOCK © Start with a burst of baroque Nibble on a sfogliatella from in the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo Sfogliatella Mary (p61) while (pictured above; p38), clear detouring through Galleria your mind in the majolica-tiled Umberto I (p60) to Caffè cloister of the Complesso Gambrinus (p62) for morning Monumentale di Santa Chi- espresso. Catch the nearby ara (p38), then pay tribute shuttle bus to Palazzo Reale to the magnificent Cristo ve- di Capodimonte (p66), a lato sculpture inside Cappella palace crammed with priceless Sansevero (p30). artworks. After lunch at Tandem (p41) or After a casual lunch at Da Salumeria (p41), lose yourself Luisa (p67), tour the ancient in ancient mosaics and marble Catacombe di San Gen- brawn at the blockbuster Mu- naro (p69), then scale Castel seo Archeologico Nazionale dell’Ovo (pictured above; p82) (p52) or critique contemporary for a sea-and-city panorama. art at MADRE (p39). If there’s Rehydrate at lo-fi waterfront still time, take in the vainglori- bar Al Barcadero (p88) before ous Duomo (p32) before feasting on seafood at Officina dinner at Donna Romita (p41) del Mare (p86). Alternatively, or standout pizzeria Concet- hit trendy Chiaia for aperitivo tina Ai Tre Santi (p70). For a at Barril (p87) or Cantine nightcap, hit the bars on Piazza Sociali (p88) and dinner at Bellini (p150). Dialetti (p85).
21 Day 3 Day 4 Plan Your Trip Four Perfect Days GIANNIS PAPANIKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK © RUI VALE SOUSA/SHUTTERSTOCK © On day three, hop on a hydrofoil Travel back two millennia on to fabled Capri. Turn up before day four at the ruins of Pompeii the day trippers descend (p92), easily reached from Na- and join the local who’s-who ples by Circumvesuviana train. brigade at the emblematic Highlights include the Villa dei square La Piazzetta. Leave the Misteri (p93), home to one of surrounding sophisticated strut the largest, most impressive of shops behind as you head wall paintings from ancient to Giardini di Augusto (p114), times. Lunch at deli-eatery with flower-filled terraces and Melius or Michelin-starred some of the best views on the President (p93) before slurp- island. Enjoy a lazy lunch at ing superlative caffè at Cam- Il Geranio (p115) or È Divino pania’s first specialty-coffee (p115), then head up to Anaca- roastery Campana (p13). pri for a bewitching chairlift Wrap things up with an (in sea- ride to Monte Solaro (pictured son) opera or ballet at Naples’ above). The peak can also be world-famous Teatro San reached on foot; one of many Carlo (pictured above; p59) be- beautiful hikes on Capri. fore toasting to your Neapolitan Back in Naples, call ahead sojourn at cognoscenti cocktail to reserve a table at classic den L’Antiquario (p87). Da Ettore (p84) or wine bar L’Ebbrezza di Noè (p84).
22 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Need to Know For detailed information, see Survival Guide p143 Language Daily Budget Italian Budget: Less than €100 Plan Your Trip Need to Know Currency Dorm bed: €15–30 Euro (€) Double room in a budget hotel: €50–110 Visas Pizza or pasta lunch/dinner: €15 Generally not required Bus, metro or funicular ticket: €1.10 for stays of up to 90 Return train ticket to Pompeii: €5.60 days (or at all for EU nationals); some Midrange: €100–200 nationalities need a Double room in a midrange hotel: €80–180 Schengen visa. Lunch and dinner in a local restaurant: €25–50 Money Three-day Artecard pass: €21 ATMs at Naples’ Return express-train ticket to Pompeii: €11 Capodichino airport and major train Top end: More than €200 stations; widely Double room in a four- or five-star hotel: €150–450 available in towns and Top restaurant dinner: €50–120 cities. Credit cards Hydrofoil to Capri: €21.50 (one-way) accepted in most hotels and restaurants. Advance Planning Mobile Phones Two months before Book your hotel and any Local SIM cards can tickets for the Teatro San Carlo. be used in European, One month before Book any cooking courses Australian and some and email the Biblioteca Nazionale to organise unlocked US phones. access to its ancient papyri. Other phones must be One to two weeks before Email the Museo set to roaming. delle Arti Sanitarie for an English-language Time tour of the Farmacia Storica degli Incurabili. Book tickets to the Cappella Sansevero and Central European Time tables at higher-end restaurants, especially on (GMT/UTC plus one hour) Capri and the Amalfi Coast in high season.
Walking Tour c A World Heritage Wander Naples is a city of hidden wonders, legend and Walk Facts contrasts, and no corner of the city illustrates this Start Port’Alba; mDante more than the centro storico. Thread your way End Duomo; mPiazza from Port’Alba to the Duomo through a heady, Cavour evocative maze where ancient ruins rub shoulders Length 1.8km; 2½ hours with bohemian bars and boutiques, enigmatic sculptures and frescoes, and the odd secret cloister. 00 000 0 0 000 00 000 Via 00 00 00 00 0 Duo Museo 0 ¡ # 0 000 000 00 0 00000 m 00000 o 0 ' 000 00æ Ge €0# Vic min # 7 V ic o C 00 Vic 000 rolo dei Via Enrico Pe 000 Via Santa Maria od 000 oG Via nali Costantinopoli ei u Trib iga inq 00 000 00 0 i nti u 000 00 0 esa Piazza 00 0 00 000 00 Via San Gaetano nti 0 00 0 i 00 ssina nal Du Via Armen di Via San Piazza ribu ppe om ei T San 00 Piazza 00 0Pietro0a00Luigi d se 0 00 00 0 V ia Giu affei Vico o 0 Bellini 00 000 Maiella 0 M Gre 00 0 # 0 0 20 00 0000 00 000 Miraglia 0 # æ # # æ 6 Vico l Nilo 000 0 000 0000 00 000 gor & o Via Po r t'Al b00 i ~ Via 0 0 0 0 0 a0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 ibra io 0000000#0 a ei L SN 0 0 æ1 # # æ3 #4 od 00 00 00 0 N 0 000 000 # æ gi 0 icola Dante 0 0 0 000 00 0 ilo 0 0 0 ¡ # 0 0 Vico Bia 00 0 0 0 0 0 Vico San San 0000 00 0 0 00000San Pietro Piazza 0 Domenico 00000 0#0 5 Via 00 00 00 0 0 0 0 0 æ 0 0 0Dante 0 0 0 00 0 0 00 0 0 00 0 00 0 000 0 000 000 0 Vic Giaco Seb Maggiore Via Francesco Piazzetta SS 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0000 Via stiano 000000000 0 0Sanctis 00000 00 00 00 0 Vic rino 0 0de 0 0 0 e oS Nilo eve a 0 00 00 0 0 0 00 San 0 ce0000 o SF o ro 00 00 0 Via C 0 tto ilip Via Toledo ede 000 0 m 00 GP B en 000 p 00 00 0 o Via 0 ala din o 00 00 000 e # 00 200 m 0.1 miles 0 00000 000 0 00 0000 0 00 000 00 00 00 00 000 0
121 Explore Y Sorrento & the Amalfi Coast The Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most bewitching destinations. Mountains plunge into the sea in a nail- biting vertical scene of crags, cliff-clinging abodes and verdant woodland. From precipitous Positano to lofty Ravello, its string of fabled towns read like a Hollywood cast list. Its western gateway is Sorrento, a handsome clifftop resort that, despite the package tourism, retains its seductive southern soul. Sorrento’s bustling heart is Piazza Tasso, with many of the town’s sights in the streets of the centro storico (p134) directly to the west of it. These include the Basilica di Sant’Antonino (p136) and the Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea (p135). The town’s best bathing spot, Bagni Regina Giovanna (p135), is also to the west, though further out of town. East of Sorrento, both the Amalfi Coast jewels of Positano (p122) and Ravello (p128) can be tackled as day trips, though it’s worth spending a night in each to slow down the pace and properly soak up their charms. Getting There & Around L Circumvesuviana trains run to Naples via Pompeii and Ercolano. J SITA Sud buses serve Naples and the Amalfi Coast, leaving from the bus station across from the Circumvesuviana train station. N Sorrento is the main jumping-off point for Capri and also has ferry connections to Naples and Amalfi coastal resorts during the summer months. Sorrento Map on p132 View of Amalfi Coast from Ravello (p128) J AV E N / S H U T T E R STO C K ©
Top Sight A Positano Deluxe, dramatic Positano is the Amalfi Coast’s Tourist Office pin-up, its vertiginous houses tumbling down to %089 87 50 67 the sea in a cascade of sun-bleached peach, pink www.aziendaturismo and terracotta. Its steep streets and steps are no positano.it less photogenic, flanked by wisteria-draped ho- Via Regina Giovanna 13 tels, smart restaurants and fashionable boutiques. h8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, Yet, despite its celebrity status, a southern-Italian to 2pm Sun May-Sep, holiday feel lingers, from its crumbling stucco to reduced hours rest of year its pizza-chowing sunbathers.
156 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index See also separate subindexes for: 5 Eating p158 pxxx 6 Drinking p158 pxxx 3 Entertainment p158 pXXX 7 Shopping p159 pXXX A Basilica di Santa shopping 117 Certosa e Museo di Restituta 33 sights 108-11, 114 San Martino 74-5 accessible travel Basilica di Chiaia 77-89, 78, 80-1 transport 107 148-9 Sant’Antonino car travel 148 drinking 87-8 accommodation 144-5 136 Casa dei Vettii entertainment 88 airports 145-6 Basilica Santa Maria 94, 96 food 84-7 Amalfi Coast 121-41, della Sanità & Catacombe di Casa del Fauno 94 shopping 88-9 132-3 San Gaudioso 69 Casa del sights 82-4 drinking 139-40 Menandro 96 bathrooms 151 transport 77 food 137-9 Casa del Poeta Battistero di San walks 78-9 shopping 140-1 Tragico 94 Giovanni in Chiesa & Chiostro Index sights 122-31, 134-7 Casa del Tramezzo di Fonte 33 di San Francesco transport 121 Biblioteca Legno 103 136 Anfiteatro 97 Nazionale 57 Casa dello Scheletro Chiesa del Gesù aperitivi 13, 88 boat travel 148 101 Nuovo 38 archaeological sites & Borgo Orefici 48-9, Casa di Nettuno e Chiesa della Certosa ruins 16, see also Anfitrite 102 75 48 individual sites Castel dell’Ovo 79, Chiesa di San bus travel 141, 147 architecture 17 82-3 Domenico business hours 149 area codes 151 Castel Nuovo 60-1 Maggiore 38-9 Catacombe di San Chiesa di San art 17, 83 C ATMs 150 Gennaro 69 Giovanni a Mare Capella di San cell phones 22, 151 49 B Gennaro 33 Centro Storico 29-47, Chiesa di San Pietro Cappella Sansevero 34, 36-7 a Maiella 35 Bagni Regina 30-1, 35 Chiesa di Santa drinking 44-6 Giovanna 135 Capodimonte 65-71, Maria Assunta food 41-4 baroque art 17 68 123 itineraries 34-5 Barrel Arches 103 food 70-1 Chiesa di Santa shopping 46-7 Maria del Basilica di San shopping 71 Lorenzo sights 30-3, Carmine 49 sights 66-7, 69-70 38-40 Maggiore 35 Chiesa di Santa transport 65 transport 29 Teresa a Capri Town 107-17, walks 34-5 Chiaia 79 Sights 000 112-13 Certosa di San Chiesa di Sant’Eligio Map Pages 000 drinking 117 Giacomo 114 Maggiore 49 food 115-17
157 Chiesa di Santo drinks 12, 13 Grotta Azzurra 115 food 70-1 Stefano 114 driving, see car travel shopping 71 Chiesa e Chiostro Duomo (Naples) H sights 66-7, 69-70 di San Gregorio 32-3, 35 transport 65 Armeno 35, 40 Herculaneum Duomo (Sorrento) (Ercolano) 100-3, La Torretta di children, travel 136-7 Mergellina 91 102 with 19 highlights 6-9 language 152-3 Chiostro Grande 75 E hiking, see also walks lesbian travellers 150 Cimitero delle Fontanelle 69 electricity 150 Positano 127 LGBT travellers 150 climate 144 emergencies 150 Ravello 131 limoncello 12 clubs 13 entertainment, history 16 Lungomare 83 see individual holidays 150-1 Lupanare 96 cocktails 13 neighbourhoods, coffee 12, 13 horse riding 99 Entertainment M Complesso subindex hydrofoil travel 148 Monumentale di Ercole (Hercules) 53 MADRE 39-40 San Lorenzo etiquette 149 I Marina Chiaiolella Maggiore 39 Il Vallone dei Mulino 119 Complesso F 135-6 Marina Corricella Monumentale di immigration 151 119 Santa Chiara 38 family travel 19 Isle of Capri 107-17, Marina Grande 134 cooking courses 18 fashion 15 112-13 Mercato 48-9, 48 Naples 85 ferry travel 148 drinking 117 Mergellina 90-1, 90 Index Ravello 129 food 10-11, 15, see also individual food 115-17 metro travel 146-7 Sorrento 137 neighbourhoods, shopping 117 Minori 131 costs 22, 149-50 Eating subindex sights 108-11, 114 mobile phones 22, 151 crafts 15 Foro 93 transport 107 Molo Luise 91 credit cards 150 Franco Senesi 123 Isola di Vivara 119 money 22, 149, 150 Cristo velato 31 frescoes 31, 54 Italian language 152-3 mosaics 53 currency 22 funicular travel 147-8 itineraries 20-1 motorcycle travel Borgo Orefici 48-9, 148 D G Mt Vesuvius 98-9 48 dangers, see safety Centro Storico Munthe, Axel 111 Galleria Borbonica Decumano Massimo 82 34-5, 35 Museo Archeologico 102 Chiaia 78-9, 78 Nazionale 52-5, Galleria Lia Rumma design 15 83 Mercato 48-9, 48 55 desserts 10 Galleria Umberto I Museo Bottega della Mergellina 90-1, 90 disabilities, travellers 60 Tarsia Lignea 135 Positano 127 with 148-9 Gallerie d’Italia – Museo Correale di Ravello 131 Terranova 135 discount cards Palazzo Zevallos 149-50 Santa Lucia 78-9, Museo del Corallo Stigliano 59-60 78 Camo 131 galleries 17 drinking 12-13, see Vomero 72-3, 72 Museo delle Arti gardens 114, 129 also Sanitarie 40 gay travellers 150 L individual Museo di neighbourhoods, Giardini di Augusto Capodimonte 67 Drinking subindex 114 La Sanità 65-71, 68 Museo Pignatelli 82
158 N Pompeii 92-7, 95 shopping 14-15, see Toledo Metro Port’Alba 35 also individual Station 60 Napoli Sotterranea neighbourhoods, top sights 6-9 Positano 122-7, 125 40-1 Shopping subindex Procida Island 118-19, Toro Farnese 53 nightlife 12-13 shrines 43 118 Torre-Museo 129 SITA buses 141 tourist information 151 O public holidays 150-1 Sorrento 121-41, tours 18 opening hours 149 Q 132-3 train travel 146-7 drinking 139-40 Quartieri Spagnoli transport 23, 145-8 P food 137-9 51-63, 58 palaces 17 drinking 62-3 shopping 140-1 V sights 134-7 Palazzo dello entertainment 63 vacations 150-1 Spagnolo 69-70 transport 121 food 61-2 Via Giordano 73 Palazzo Mannajuolo Spiaggia del Fornillo shopping 63 124 Via Partenope 79 79, 82 sights 52-7, 59-61 Spiaggia di Chiaia Via Scarlatti 73 Palazzo Murat 123 transport 51 119 Vico San Domenico Palazzo Reale 56-7 Spiaggia Grande 124 Maggiore 35 Palazzo Reale di R Villa Cimbrone 130 Capodimonte 66-7 Ravello 128-31, 130 T Villa Comunale 79, 83-4 Palazzo Sanfelice 70 Reggia di Caserta taxes 14 Villa Comunale Park Parco di 104-5 taxis 148 137 Index Capodimonte 67 Rocco, Gregorio Teatro Grande 97 Villa dei Misteri 93 Parco Nazionale del Maria 43 Teatro San Carlo 59 Vesuvio 99 Villa Jovis 109, 111 telephone services Parco Reale 105 S 22, 151 Villa Lysis 109 passports 151 Villa Maria 79 safety 151 Terme Femminili 103 pasta 10 Villa Rufolo 129 Salto di Tiberio 111 Terme Maschili 101 Piazza Bellini 35 Villa San Michele di Santa Lucia 77-89, Terme Stabiane 93-4 Axel Munthe 111 Piazza dei Martiri 79 78, 80-1 Terra Murata 119 villas 17, 108-11 Piazza Duomo drinking 87-8 theft 151 130-1 visas 22, 151 entertainment 88 Thomas Dane Piazza Olmo 119 Vomero 72-3, 72 food 84-7 Gallery 83 Piazza Umberto I 114 Tiberius, Emperor 111 Piazza Vanvitelli 73 shopping 88-9 W sights 82-4 time 22 Piazzetta del Leone tipping 150 walks transport 77 91 Borgo Orefici 48-9, walks 78-9 Toffini Academy 85 pickpocketing 151 48 Santa Maria del toilets 151 Pio Monte della Castello Circuit Centro Storico Toledo 51-63, 58 Misericordia 38 127 34-5, 35 drinking 62-3 pizza 10, 11 Scala 131 Chiaia 78-9, 78 planning 22-3 entertainment 63 seafood 11 Mercato 48-9, 48 food 61-2 Sede degli Augustali Mergellina 90-1, 90 shopping 63 101 Positano 127 Sights 000 sights 52-7, 59-61 Sedile Dominova Ravello 131 Map Pages 000 transport 51 136
159 Santa Lucia 78-9, 78 La Campagnola 33 Trattoria Mangia e Centro di Musica Vomero 72-3, 72 La Cantinaccia del Bevi 43-4 Antica Pietà de’ Popolo 138 Trattoria San Turchini 63 weather 144 La Capannina 117 Ferdinando 57 Music on the Rocks 123 websites 144 La Conchiglia 119 Vero GastroBar 42 Spazio Intolab 45 wine 13 La Pignasecca 60 Viva Lo Re 101 La Stanza del Gusto Zi’Ntonio 138-9 5 Eating 53 7 Shopping Le Arcate 109 6 Drinking Anna Matuozzo 91 Ai Monti Lattari 60 L’Ebbrezza di Noè Asad Ventrella: Al Grottino 116 84-5 Al Barcadero 88 Contemporastudio Antica Cantina Lo Sfizio 109 Ba-Bar 87 88-9 Sepe 71 Martucci 105 Bar dal Cavaliere 119 Bottega 21 46, 140 Antica Osteria Da Next2 126 Bar Internazionale 127 Carthusia I Profumi di Tonino 85 ’O Sfizio 42 Barril 87 Capri 117 Antica Pizza Fritta Officina del Mare 86 Bollicine 140 Ceramiche Maria da Zia Esterina O’Puledrone 137 Cafè Latino 140 Grazia 124 Sorbillo 61-2 Osteria della Caffè dell’Epoca 44 Da Costanzo 117 Antica Pizzeria e Trattoria al ’22 61 Mattonella 61 Caffè Gambrinus 62 E. Marinella 79 AZZ! 138 Pasticceria Caffè Mexico 63 Fratelli D’Angelo di Mennella 85 Donato 49 Babel 129 Cantine Sociali 88 Pasticceria Kiphy 47 Casa Mele 126 D’Anton 139 Index Poppella 71 La Bottega di Brunella C’era Una Volta 127 Il Birraiuolo 62-3 Pescheria Mattiucci 124 Chalet Ciro Jamón 44 86 La Botteguccia de Mergellina 91 La Pergola 140 Pizzeria Da Franco Giovanni 124 Cibi Cotti 91 L’Antiquario 87 138 La Parissienne 117 Concettina Ai Tre Libreria Berisio Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo La Scarabattola Santi 70-1 45-6 41 46-7 Da Emilia 137 Palazzo Venezia Pizzeria Starita 71 Limonè 47 Da Ettore 84, 87 Napoli 45 President 93 Livio De Simone 89 Da Luisa 67 Shanti Art Musik Raffaele Buonacore MAC Ceramics 47 Da Salvatore 129 Bar 45 116 Mattana Design 89 Di Matteo 33 Spazio Nea 44 Ristorantino Mercatino di Dialetti 85 dell’Avvocato 86-7 Superfly 45 Antignano 73 Donna Romita 41 Salumeria 41 Syrenuse Bar 140 Mercato di Porta Donna Rosa 127 Scaturchio 57 Taverna Anema e Nolana 49 È Divino 115-16 Core 117 Omega 71 Serafino 43 Friggitoria Vomero 75 Ventimetriquadri 73 Piazzetta Orefici 49 Sfogliatella Mary Gay-Odin 43 61 Riot Laundry Bar 73 Gelateria David 137 Soul & Fish 138 3Entertainment Scriptura 47 Il Geranio 115 Tandem 41 Associazione Scarlatti Stinga 141 Inn Bufalito 139 Trattoria Castel 88 Talarico 63 La Cambusa 126 dell’Ovo 86 Bourbon Street 63 Terrerosse 141
160 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Our Writers Cristian Bonetto Cristian has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Plan- et guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and design appear in numerous publications around the world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping espresso in his beloved hometown, Melbourne. Brendan Sainsbury Born and raised in the UK in a town that never merits Our Writers a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious existence as a writer and professional vagabond. In the last 11 years, he has written more than 40 books for Lonely Planet about places ranging from from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru. Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing 1st edition – Apr 2019 this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78868 116 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 all liability arising from its use. Printed in Malaysia All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other coun- tries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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