Major Iberian wine regions
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Wine Appreciation
from Grapes to Glass,
Lecture 8: Spain &
Portugal
Dennis Swaney,
Karin Limburg
Iberian Peninsula spans latitudinal range of ~37°N-43°N
(about from Syracuse to the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay)
Major Iberian wine regions
Regional Overview
• Much of Spain and Portugal is hot and dry with relatively low
grape yields
• Spain alone has more land planted in vineyards than any other
country (~3 million acres in 2005)
• Both countries have experienced major changes in the wine
industry in the last 10-20 years, resulting in major improvements
in quality (changes in winemaking style in response to changes in
demand).
• Modernization of Portuguese wine industry in the last 10-15
years has been dramatic
• Iberia is unique in the relative importance of fortified wines in
its wine industry (sherry and port)
http://www.delongwine.com/iberian-wine-map.php
1
Iberian Climate
Four climatic zones, of which three major wine regions
Some Iberian Wine History
• Atlantic coastal climate. Average temperatures here are 9ºC in winter and 18ºC in • Wine history in Spain predates that of many other areas of
summer. This is the wettest part of the peninsula with annual rainfall between 800-1500 mm,
brought by successive depressions from the Atlantic, particularly in autumn and winter. Also
Europe (eg France, Germany) by millennia
cooled by effect of coastal upwelling. • Grapes have been cultivated in Spain from 3-4000 BC
• Continental Mediterranean climate of interior central plateau (mesetas). Low • The Carthaginians cultivated vineyards for wine in Spain until
temperatures in winter, with temperatures under -15ºC not uncommon, and under -20ºC regularly
occurring. Summer an average 24ºC. Annual rainfall under 400 mm (16”/yr). Heavy snowfalls in
defeated by the Romans in the Punic Wars (2nd century BC)
winter. As the Castilians say "nueve meses de invierno y tres meses de infierno." "nine months of
winter and three months of hell."
• Under Roman rule, Spanish wines were distributed throughout
the Empire
• Mediterranean climate proper. Eastern and southern coast of Spain and much of the
Guadalquivir Valley . A lot of sun. Average temperatures of 11ºC in winter and 23ºC in summer.
• The fall of the Roman Empire didn’t mean the end of wine
Annual rainfall between 250 mm and 600 mm. production in Spain – wine was still being made when the
Moors defeated the Visigoths in Spain in 711 AD and
• Alpine climate (Pyrenees and other highlands) continued throughout the period of Islamic rule until the region
• Local topography effectively creates combinations of the above in specific areas
came largely under Christian control in the 12th century AD
• 1143 – Portugal formally recognized as independent of Spain at
the conference of Zamora
http://www.iberianature.com/material/spainclimates.html
Sintra, Portugal. Source: wikipedia
More Iberian Wine History Spanish wine labeling
• 13th Century AD - Wine is being exported in quantity to England from Spanish wine labels contain vintage and aging information
Spain and Portugal • Vino joven ("young wine") or sin crianza - the wines have very little, if any, wood
aging. (These wines are often meant to be consumed very young - …within a year
• 14th – 19th Centuries - Portugal enjoys cordial relations with Britain (& or two of their release.
its colonies) beginning with Treaty of Windsor (1386)…Port and other • Vendimia or cosecha (vintage year) – for this to appear on the label, a minimum
regional wines become very popular in England and the colonies of 85% of the grapes must be from that year's harvest.
• Mid 19th to early 20th Century – Diseases! powdery mildew (~1850s) Most common aging designations on Spanish wine labels:
and phylloxera (Malaga,1878, Rioja, 1901). Phylloxera overcome by
grafting Vitis vinifera grapes onto resistant American rootstock…In • Crianza: red wines are aged for 2 years with at least 6 months in oak. Crianza
whites and rosé must be aged for at least 1 year with at least 6 months in oak.
Catalonia, the post-phylloxera period coincides with development of
sparkling wines (cavas) • Reserva: red wines are aged for at least 3 years with at least 1 year in oak.
Reserva whites and rosé must be aged for at least 2 years with at least 6 months in
• 20th Century: Fascism, then death of Franco in 1975; joined the EU in oak.
1986 economic improvements which have benefited the wine • Gran Reserva: wines typically appears in above average vintages and with the
industry, via modernization and increasing demand for better wine red wines requiring at least 5 years aging, 18 months of which in oak. Gran Reserva
whites and rosé must be aged for at least 4 years with at least 6 months in oak.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanish_wine; Tom Stevenson, The Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia, 2005
2
DOs and DOCas 6 Degrees of DOs and DOCas
Denominación de Pago (DO de Pago) - Individual single-estates with
an international reputation ( there are 6: Dehesa del Carrizal,
Dominio deValdepusa, Finca Élez, Pago Guijoso, Señorío de
DO - Denominación de Origen (Designation of Origin) Arinzano, Prado de Irache)
• Part of a regulatory classification system primarily for Spanish Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa): top-quality wine regions.
wines (similar to the French appellation controlee) but also for (there are only 2: Priorat and Rioja)
other foods (the Portuguese system is similar) Denominación de Origen (DO) –mainstream quality-wine regions.
• Some regions (eg Rioja (1925), Sherry (1933)) already had Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD) – less
systems that preceded the full system… stringent regulation with specific geographical origin.
• DO is part of the EU QWPSR system (Quality Wine Produced Vinos de la Tierra (VdlT) - "country wine" areas which do not have
in Specific Regions), adopted by Spain in 1986 EUQWPSR status but which may use a regional name.
• Six levels of quality classification… Vino de Mesa - Table wine, production of which has been in decline in
recent years.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denominaci%C3%B3n_de_Origen http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denominaci%C3%B3n_de_Origen
Some major wine regions (& DOs) of Spain
http://www.decanterwines.co.uk/mapPopup.php The Oxford Companion to Wine, Jancis Robinson
3
Some major native grape varietals of Spain
Red: White: Tempranillo – the quintessential
Tempranillo Viura Palomino Spanish grape!
Garnacha (aka Grenache) Muscat Albariño
Graciano Verdejo
Monastrell (aka Mourvedre)
Red varietals:
Tempranillo is a major grape of Rioja DO but is planted widely
Garnacha is a major grape of Peñedes DO, but planted widely
White varietals:
Albariño is grown in Galicia (NW spain) and is the main grape variety
used in the Rías Baixas DO
Verdejo is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc in the Rueda DO
Palomino is used extensively in Sherry wines
Muscat is used in some sherry and dessert wines
Hugh Johsnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2011
Some major wine regions of Spain Some major wine regions of Spain
Rias Baixas (=“low rivers”) – 3500 ha planted
Principal varietal: Albariño (over 90%)
Albariño perhaps introduced by Rioja – 50000 ha planted
Cistercian monks in 12th century (?) Principal varietal: Tempranillo
Mostly alluvial soils (also garnacha, others)
Atlantic coastal climate (cool due to Bordeaux influence, includes aging of reds in oak
coastal upwelling) Clayey, chalky soils with high iron content
Not a coincidence that these wines go (“rioja”=red)
well with seafood Continental climate (long hot summer, cold winter)
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson
4
Some major wine regions of Spain Some major wine regions of Spain
Jumilla – 32000 ha planted
Principal varietal: Monastrell
(also tempranillo, garnacha, others)
Escaped phylloxera until 1989
– significant vineyard upgrades since then
Dark, limey soils
Climate intermediate between dry central
plateau and sea influence of coast
Ribera del Duero – 12000 ha planted
Principal varietal: Tempranillo
(also garnacha, cab. sauv., others)
Bordeaux influence, includes blending with French
varietals – produces many long lived wines
Silty-clay sand and marly, chalky soils
Continental climate, low rainfall
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson
Some major wine regions of Spain Some major wine regions of Spain
Penedes – 26000 ha planted
Known for both its red wines and its cavas (sparkling
wines …”cava” = cave )
Range of varietals planted: Reds in lower elevations
(garnacha, tempranillo, cab. sauv., others) Whites in
higher areas (Macabeo, Xarel-lo, German & French
varietals)
Poor quality, well-drained soils
Mediterranean climate
Jerez – the home of sherry wine
Principal varietals: Mostly Palomino
(some Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel)
More below
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson
5
Some major native grape varietals of Portugal Some major wine
Red: White: regions of Portugal
Touriga Nacional Alvarinho (aka Albariño)
Vinho Verde – 70000 ha planted
Tinta Roriz (aka tempranillo) Malvasia Fina Gouveio
Principal varietals: Alvarinho, Trajadura,
Touriga Francesa Espadeiro Viosinho Donzelinho several other whites and some reds
Baga Tinta Barroca Esgana Cão mostly white wines
(vinho verde = “green wine”)
shallow granitic soils of low fertility
Red varietals: (increasingly, terracing and fertilization is
Touriga Nacional – most widely planted; a major port grape; makes good reds being used)
Baga makes highly tannic wines, which age well (“garrafeira wines”) Atlantic coastal climate
Most of the others are blended in port to achieve balance
White varietals:
Alvarinho is grown in the Vino Verde (green wine) region south of Galicia
Malvasia Fina is used in white port and Douro table wines
Most of the others are blended in white port to achieve balance
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson;
http://www.2basnob.com/portugeuse-wine.html http://www.catavino.net/blog/portugals-wine-demarcation/
Some major wine Some major wine
regions of Portugal regions of Portugal
Douro – 40000 ha planted Dao – 20000 ha planted
Principal varietals: Touriga Principal varietals: Touriga Nacional,
Nacional, Malvasia Fina, many others Tinta Roriz, Encruzado, many others
The main region of Port wine Mostly tannic reds – increasing
Otherwise, mostly red wines emphasis on Burgundy style wines
Steep, terraced vineyards (not too heavy)
Shallow soils well-drained, shallow schist and
Continental climate granitic soils
Continental climate
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson;
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson;
http://www.catavino.net/blog/portugals-wine-demarcation/ http://www.catavino.net/blog/portugals-wine-demarcation/
6
Some major wine
regions of Portugal Good Vintages in Spain
(according to Hugh Johnson)
Alentejo – 13500 ha planted
Principal varietals: Abundante (garnacha), 2004 – great in Rioja & Ribera del Duero
Alfrocheiro Preto (many others)
large area of flat plains 2005 – excellent in Navarra
heterogeneous soils (clay, granite,
2007 – in Penedès, “textbook
limestone, etc) year…considered one of the best in the
Mediterranean climate
past 50 years”
2009 – incredibly hot everywhere. Will
produce good vintages in Rioja and R. del
Duero
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson;
http://www.catavino.net/blog/portugals-wine-demarcation/ wineeconomist.com
Tasting Whites from Spain Sherry, Port, and Madeira: fortified wines
and Portugal
Spain:
P
Pazo do Mar S O
(Galicia, white, $14) P R
Portugal: A T
I U
Porrais (Duoro
Valley '07, $17) N G
A
L
Wikipedia
7
The Sherry Triangle Sherry: soils, grapes, and
climate
Albariza soils –
very chalky, the
best for
producing sherry
The World Atlas of Wine
.jerezcar.com
Two other main soil types
• Barros: dark brown, high clay
content, organic matter, less chalk
www.cellartours.com
• Arenas: yellowish, sandy soil with
about 10% chalk
Albariza soils, because of
their high chalk content,
hold moisture well in hot Pedro Ximenez and
weather. Ideal for the moscatel grapes
Palomino grapes The World Atlas of Wine
grown in these soils
Wikipedia
8
The climate in the sherry region is Sherry vinification and fortification
characterized by “brutally hot” summers –
Once the
the grapes thrive and become sweet fermentation is
Here, Palomino complete, the wine is
grapes are laid out classified and
on mats to sweeten fortified with
even more in the destillado, a fortifying
hot sun, to produce brandy.
high sugars so the Here is a famous
wine is strong and bodega (Bodega
stable Domecq)
Wikipedia
The World Atlas of Wine
The key to sherry aging: New
wine is
the solera system added
Soleras consist of 3- to 9-barrel
systems – the longer the system,
Wikipedia the more the aging
9
Sherries are classified from driest to sweetest Cream Harvey’s
• Fino (“fine”) – palest, driest sherries are Bristol Cream
sweetened is a famous
• Manzanilla is a special fino from Sanlúcar de with Pedro one, made in
Barrameda Ximenez
Bristol,
or
• Amontillado – aged first under flor, then moscatel England
exposed to air to oxidize, becomes darker wine,
usually
• Oloroso (“scented”) – even more starting
aged/oxidized, darker, more alcoholic (18-20%) with
oloroso
• Palo cortado – a rare variety that shares
characteristics of amontillado and oloroso
www.thedieline.com/pentawards08/category_luxury/
Ports and Portugal
Lonely Planet
10Rio Douro (in Portugal) =
Port wines, like sherries, are fortified. Ribera del Duero (in Spain)
www.wineanorak.com/introducingport.htm
But UNLIKE sherries, the fortified wine
is added to stop fermentation in its
tracks, to keep the wine sweet.
It’s also mostly made from red grapes –
Wikipedia
treading the grapes increases the
extraction. Traditional method, but now The port grapes
mostly mechanized. are produced in
the Douro Valley Ancient terracing
Traditionally,
barrels of port
were shipped Like sherries,
down the Douro ports are aged
in these special wines. Here
barcos rabelos, are “lodges”
workboats that
plied the river, or shippers’
shooting the warehouses,
rapids The World Atlas of Wine where the
Now, the Douro is dammed, so the wine wine rests. The World Atlas of Wine
travels by road or rail to Oporto
11Most ports are blended
to obtain desired
qualities & consistency
The World Atlas of Wine
Ferenc Kalmandy
The two main
types are
Lodges typically have their own cooperages, tawny and
making 522-L barrels called pipes. Ports are ruby
aged from 2-50 years in pipes. www.portugaltravelguide.org
Once every few years, growing conditions are
so good that a vintage year is declared. These Madeira
ports are not blended across other years.
These tend to be
rare and expensive
The World Atlas of Wine
12There are several types of
Madeira wines, all of them
fortified
Madeira was very popular in
the American colonies –
Madeira is a Thos. Jefferson used it to
Portuguese island off toast the signing of the
northern Africa Declaration of Independence
Tasting Reds from Spain References
and Portugal
Johnson, Hugh. 1985. The World
Spain: Atlas of Wine.
Simon & Schuster, New York (newer
Dacu Tempranillo, editions available)
R. del Guadiana '09
Robinson, Jancis. 1994. The Oxford
($12-$13) Companion to Wine.
Oxford University Press, Oxford, UK.
Portugal:
Zraly, Kevin. 2008. Windows on the
Quinta de Bon- World Complete Wine
Ventos '08 (Lisboa, Course. Sterling Press, New York.
$9)
(and see various websites noted on
previous pages)
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