MAGAZINE FOR & FROM WINE LOVERS - Nō. 2 - TOA
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Nō. 2 MAGAZINE FOR & FROM W INE LOVERS
Introlude 3
Dear Austrian Wine Lovers
Welcome to the second edition of We have interviewed Christoph
our Toazine! (We hope you liked Hoch on his practices, and you
the first one!). As usual, the new can also read a piece on herbs
year is already in full swing. A by our “herb witch” Birgit. The
great deal of the first months of famous vineyards of the Wachau
the season we have dedicated are another subject we would
to trade fairs – a challenging but like to plunge into with Erich
important part of the business. Machherndl & Martin Mittelbach
Feel free to take a look at how of Tegernseerhof. This is merely
we do it! Yes, this topic is a highly an appetizer, find out more by
discussed one in the light of the turning the pages…
current developments as many
fairs are being cancelled or post- Enjoy Toazine No. 2!
poned. As all wine professionals
and wine lovers, we hope that Yours,
the situation will get back to normal Green is the colour of the moment, TOA Team
as soon as possible. Fingers crossed! do you agree? We’re not necessarily (Franz, Birgit, Branko)
speaking in terms of politics now but
about the focus on sustainable wine
growing. The judicious use of cover
crops is a big topic for our growers.
Content
INTROLUDE ........................................................................................................... 3
OPINION : UNDER COVER ....................................................................................... 4
PORTRAIT : GRUBER RÖSCHITZ ............................................................................... 6
TALKING TO : NEIL LIN .......................................................................................... 8
PORTRAIT OF A REGION : WACHAU ........................................................................ 10
THE HERB WITCH PROJECT .................................................................................. 12
THE VINEYARD ALPHABET ................................................................................... 13
PORTRAIT : SABATHI ............................................................................................ 14
VINTAGE : 10 YEARS AFTER – RED EDITION ............................................................ 16
PORTRAIT : WEINGUT TRAPL ................................................................................ 20
FAIR BUSINESS .................................................................................................... 22
OUR PARTNERS .................................................................................................... 26
EVENTS ............................................................................................................... 27
4 oPInIon oPInIon 5
Top producers have long since realised that the work in the cellar is no longer the most important part of
producing good wine. The real magic (and the lion's share of work) takes place in the vineyard.
One secret of success is to let grow more than only the vine...
COVER CROPS: ∙ break the grapevine monoculture The many benefits must have at Christoph, how do you Which seeds and plants do 4) How is the balance between
ESSENTIAL HELPERS ∙ play an important role for the least some downsides too, as it apply cover crops? you use and why? the plants? Cover crop must not be
biodiversity in terms of interaction seems, right? Now, for some growers one-sided since you can’t predict
If you take a look at many regions’ with bacteria and fungi the competition for water, especially Our vineyards are divided into Well, there are quite a few – for me, the weather for the entire year.
vineyards you can still see more than ∙ offer protection from erosion for young plants and in rather dry 4 different cover crop zones the most important thing is a good Having this in mind, I will not only
one with neat rows of vines and and aerate the soil locations may seem an argument in terms of the seed mix. 3 of mix. Let me give you an example for seed rye but also plants which grow
bare soils in between. Tidy and clean ∙ improve the availability of nutrients against cover crops. However, such them depend on the location a better understanding. a lot faster and consolidate the soil
- an image that supposedly testifies which they turn into humus stress can be avoided by seeding (is it a rather rich or poor soil, (i.e. buckwheat) as well as small
to good management and is often ∙ at the same time ensure positive the plants mainly before the winter is it extremely calcareous or 1) What’s the soil I’m dealing with proportions of blooming plants as
the exact opposite. For the good competition between vine and period, by keeping the cover low “simply” calcareous?) and (proportion of loam and limestone)? a “pasture” for bees in order to
producer, cover or vegetal crops have cover crop, thus moderate (flattening or mowing it) or by the goal for the respective encourage biodiversity.
become an important part alternating its use in vineyard (depending on
of the vineyard ecosystem every second row of the yield: rather more 5) Where’s the origin of my
and one of the crucial factors vines. The right seed quantity or rather more plants? They should not be too
for the quality of their wines. mix is crucial as well. quality?). As for the 4th exotic or unusual. There is a reason
Like many things in life, the mix, we use it for what we why certain plants do thrive in
management of these cover Cover crops for sure are call “soil recovery”. Here, our region – and others do not!
crops is a mosaic of many a complex matter and the focus is not the grape,
considerations and decisions, best practices heavily but only the soil (providing What will the future bring in
which require coping with the depend on factors such nutrients, ensuring proper terms of cover crops in view
terroir and specific strategies. as climate, respective rooting, green mass for of climate change?
Let’s take a stroll through vineyard location, type creating humus and see-
these “gardens of wine”. and condition ding plants on which also Naturally, we will have to adapt
of the soil, age the bacteria and other organisms our approach to the changing
In planting cover crops, of the vines and can spend the winter and simply conditions. We will have to use
grasses, cereals, herbs and the wine- feel good). other (but still local) plants and
legumes are sown and grower’s goals. pursue other goals, for example
allowed to grow in order to We have Which pros and cons do cover break it down at an earlier stage.
achieve a variety of positive interviewed crops have in your view? But let me repeat: the soil should
effects. The entire ecosystem Christoph Hoch never be left open the whole
(soil, plants, living beings) of the epony- Frankly, I do not really see cons year long!
should benefit from these, mous biodyna- here. I believe that the soil should
because one thing is clear: mic estate in never be left open during the entire
the focus on the vine (or even grape) ∙ excessive growth while improving Kremstal’s Hollenburg on year! An open soil does not compete 2) Which grape variety, especially
alone has no future. The soil is a grape quality his approach and practices. with the vine but after being left when it comes to vigor and sensitivity
non-renewable resource and must ∙ improve water balance (which open for a longer period of time it to drought?
therefore be preserved for future can be better absorbed and stored dries out and loses organisms. Of
generations. Which are the main thanks to root systems building course, you can open it every now 3) What do I aim for? Let’s say it’s
benefits of cover crops for the tunnels and loosening the soil) and then (i.e. in order to mobilise Riesling (high vigor and less sensitive
vineyard ecosystem? They: ∙ offer food supply for beneficial nitrogen) but after that plants should to drought) growing on loess soil
insects (via blossoms, biomass) be allowed to grow again. Thinking (rather rich soil and medium content
and encourage biodiversity of it, actually the biggest “disadvan- of limestone). I will seed plants with
∙ prevent soil compaction and provide tage” is the human being taking the a higher demand for nitrogen and
for a better trafficability (machines, wrong decision… (As for the benefits, which produce more carbon and I
tractors) please see above). will have them grow until maturity
∙ serve as a shield against heat (cereals such as rye and oats).
and drought I do this in order to reduce the vigor
∙ in general improve soil vitality of the Riesling and therewith the
and its long term health susceptibility for diseases and rot.
Fig. 1: Garlic © Branko Mucina Fig. 2: Christoph Hoch © Christoph Hoch
6 PortrAIt PortrAIt 7
MODERN FAMILY As already mentioned, the family their stamp on the wines, no matter
GRUBER RÖ S CH I T Z – FA MI LY T I E S manages a rather large vineyard, if Veltliner, Riesling or Chardonnay.
The village of Röschitz is situated with a total of 80 hectares. Not Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir grow
on the eastern foothills of the surprisingly, the wine portfolio is on the Galgenberg (granite with
The Weinviertel is the largest wine-growing region in Austria and it Manhartsberg mountain range and also extensive, as such a size also loess topsoil) and highlight the
is also the region where most Grüner Veltliner is grown. Among the provides ideal conditions for wine- brings with it a variety of soils and expressive way red wines from the
countless wineries you will find every possible structure: large, small, growing – probably the best in the conditions. Depending on location, north of Austria can be. Just a few
medium, conventional and organic. Grüner Veltliner is omnipresent, whole Weinviertel region. Blame age of the vines and grape variety, examples among many, because
no surprise there, but almost all grapes that are processed into wine the soils: primary rock with granite they create a colourful, inviting range of course, Gruber Röschitz also
in Austria thrive in the various soils and climates of the Weinviertel and partly shallow loess topsoil. The of great wines. Grüner Veltliner is produces sparkling wines and sweet
(whose translation, by the way, is “wine district”). A remarkable crystalline rock soils and the rather the boss, but Riesling, Chardonnay wines. And something called Black
winery, which on the one hand boasts a considerable size, but cool climate allow for an exciting, and the reds such as Zweigelt, Sankt Vintage. What's that?
which is still managed by one family, is Gruber Röschitz. fruity, elegant style of wines. Rather Laurent and Pinot Noir also have
warm days, always cool nights, this is their merits. To introduce all of them The Black Vintage series is some-
what grapes love in order to develop here would go beyond the scope, but thing pretty special. It is the Gruber’s
seductive aromatics. It’s all about a stylistic classification will certainly playground in terms of showing the
freshness here and the Grubers provide some help. world of wine what their region is
succeed brilliantly in highlighting capable of (and why not?). Year
this Austrian USP. By the way, the The structure is clear: The entry level after year they select particularly
Grubers, who are they? Let’s have wines (à la Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, exciting and charismatic wines that
them introduce themselves: Gelber Muskateller or the juicy Rosé, are vinified with as little intervention
whether with the protected origin as possible. Black Vintage Pinot
Together we can achieve more. "Weinviertel DAC" or the addition Noir, Sankt Laurent, Riesling or
We, that are 3 brothers and sisters, "Röschitz") convey carefree drinking Chardonnay, these wines are strictly
pulling together. Maria, Ewald and pleasure, varietal typicity and limited and combine power with
Christian, each responsible for refreshing acidity (always important!). finesse. One of a kind, so to say.
specific areas and all with the aim With their single vineyard wines,
of creating authentic wines in our the Grubers are keen to present the
homeland. Whether in the vineyards, different soils. Reipersberg (weathe- SPRITUS VINOSI
in the cellar or in marketing: we red primary rock), Hundspoint (loess GRUBERIALIS
share the work and grow together. soils) or Mühlberg (granite), they put
Finally, did you ever wonder what
these little creatures on the Gruber
ORGANIC BY CONVICTION Röschitz labels are supposed to
mean? Well, these “wine spirits”
The Gruber family has been are fitting symbols of cooperation
working the many parcels of their and the family’s natural approach.
winery organically since 2015. They They are microorganisms that
do this out of conviction, not because naturally control pests, break down
fashion demands it. The extra work minerals and boost the fermen-
they put in is rewarded with more tation. The Gruber siblings’ work
typicity and character despite provides the ideal environment so
lower yields. Give nature free rein, they can help them harvest healthy
promote the self-healing powers grapes and produce unique wines.
of the vines and preserve the most Sounds good, doesn’t it?
valuable resource - the soils of their
homeland, that is. Nowadays,
the organic approach is also
invaluable given the more and more
challenging conditions caused by
climate change. Thanks to their
approach, the grapes ripen earlier,
form less sugar and alcohol and
need less sulphur, plus, cover crops
counteract drought periods.
Fig. 1: Gruber Röschitz © Astrid Bartl Fig. 2-4: © Weingut Gruber Röschitz
8 tA lK I nG to tA lK I nG to 9
A Talk with Neil Lin
Neil Lin and his firm Eurowill are our partners in China/Shanghai.
Despite being a (potentially) huge and growing market, it is not
always easy to promote Austrian wines here, even more so natural
wines. However, Neil is confident the best times are yet to come.
We have spoken to him, so let’s read what he has to say!
Neil, how did you start with wine, gained momentum until after the The challenges lie in the fact that the our products, we know that good Is there knowledge and demand Do you see particular trends for
what was your motivation? 2000s. Much later than our neighbor market has not been educated to products will attract people much for organic or biodynamic wines? the future – how might customer
Japan due to a lot of reasons, and drinking wine properly and wine has easily than others. Also, we are pro- And what about alternative wine preferences evolve in your point
Wine was my very first job when I especially when it comes to natural definitely NOT been part of the moting the natural wine culture (not styles (amphorae, Pet Nat, of view?
left school. I studied Law at university wines. culture in any period of Chinese his- necessarily hard sales but in sharing macerated whites…)?
but when I was thinking about my tory. We have to educate the people the ideas and experiences in natural As I said further above, we can see
career during the final year, I realized But as you can see, everything and convince them to drink wine. wines) on our own platform which is Of course, there are quite some that there is a trend among people
that I wanted to look for something grows very fast in China. That’s why This takes a long time. In any case, really helping us to spread the word. people who know about organic and to pay more attention to their daily
more interesting to do. I attended I can say that the opportunities are we do feel comfortable because we biodynamic wines and styles like lifestyle. Nowadays, the first bottle
some social activities in Shanghai here. We are the very first ones to can see the quick development here Could you tell me your opinion on pet nat or macerated white wines... that really makes an impression on
and discovered that it was year by year. the acceptance and popularity of For us, this is the core part we are young people is a bottle of natural
wine that opened my mind Austrian Wines among sommeliers focusing on right now. We believe in wine!
to a beautiful world. So I Who are your main and customers in your area? the people who work in the field on
decided to start my career “WE ARE WORKING ON IT!” customers and how do their own. They definitely know the Which wines do you prefer
in wine. you reach them? Austrian wines have an image of best about their products and they personally and with what
high quality among all sommeliers can make things happen. We have kind of food?
China is a huge market. We have been dealing and customers, but they are not chosen natural wines only because
What makes it special in your point promote natural wines in China. with wines for over 10 years now yet very common in the market. Of they’re good, and also because it's I prefer wines with drinkability.
of view, which are the challenges We had gained some experience in and have put an emphasis on natural course, high quality comes with a more easy going segment fitting Drinkability doesn't equal easy. It
and opportunities? tasting and getting to know natural wines for 3 years already. We do higher prices. It’s going to take time young people's daily lives (nice means that you don't want to put
wines a couple of years before we have some good connections. Our and very hard work in order to push packaging, good image, drinkability, the glass down and just want to
China is a huge market for every- decided to start our own business. main customers are new wine bars, Austrian wines even further. better for health, etc...). enjoy one sip after another. As for
thing, but in terms of wine, it is still a Also, we're trying to bring the best restaurants and bistros as well as We are working on it! the food, I always prefer Chinese or
very tiny market compared to Japan, products to China because as you distributors outside of Shanghai. On- Asian food. And I have another
the US and other countries. China know, good products can speak for line platforms are another important dream: to open a wine bar/bistro
only started to import quality wines themselves just because they're part, as are private customers. Since that serves Chinese food with
in the 90s and this segment has not good! I'm very confident in the quality of natural wines!
Fig. 1: Neil Lin © Neil Lin
10 PortrAIt oF A reGIon PortrAIt oF A reGIon 11
Martin, most of your vineyards are I know that “cool” is very much in manoeuvre. You simply have
Location, Location, Location located around Loiben/Dürnstein. vogue at the moment, it's what to know which grapes are to be
How come? everyone wants to hear now, harvested at which point of time.
especially when the language comes
The Wachau is not big when it comes to area under vines. Regarding its perception at home The Tegernseerhof (a Bavarian up on climate change. However, in What’s your take on the upcoming
and abroad, however, there is no doubt about the greatness of this Austrian flagship region. monastery) was actually the first our part of the region the only really designation of origin „Wachau
The reasons for this are certainly the region’s focus on top notch vineyard locations, the estate in this part of the Wachau. warm sites ca be found in the middle DAC“*?
signature grapes of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling and the “trinity” of Steinfeder, Federspiel After the secularization in 1803, and lower part of the Loibenberg. I
and Smaragd established by Vinea Wachau. We wanted to know: How important is the our family came into possession of believe that “warm versus cool” very Honestly, I love it! For us, little is
focus on location for our partners in the Wachau? Is there a “cooler” climate Wachau? How these vineyards, which is why our much depends on the handling by going to change. I think it's good
does climate change affect them? Erich Machherndl from Wösendorf and Martin Mittelbach core property is located here. In the wine grower. It’s a bad idea to that by establishing this protection
from the Tegernseerhof in Dürnstein took their time and answered. former times, we used to have land over-simplify things. The decisive of origin, the core values of the
in Joching as well and a couple of factors are the understanding of vine Wachau will be given a solid foun-
years ago we were able to lease growth, canopy management and, dation. Wachau will remain Wachau
these vineyards again. and the DAC concept includes
every aspect of the region. As
Do you also have sites in the for the single vineyard wines
Wachau “far west”, in the (like e.g. “Kellerberg”), they’ll
Erich, the Wachau‘s fame is based it is not as hot as in Dürnstein (in the vintages and this is obviously reflec- Spitzer Graben? have to be made from Grüner
on its famous single vineyards. east) and less prone to late frosts ted in the wine. I work mainly with Veltliner and Riesling. I’m sure
Blessing or curse? Or both? and hail as in the Spitzer Graben (in tannin - like it or not. I do like it. Actually, we do have a project that single vineyard labelling for
the west). A mix would be nice, let’s there with a friend (and a different Pinot Blanc or Chardonnay is not
In my view, it’s a blessing. I like say 75 % around Wösendorf where Speaking about climate change – label), a Neuburger in the site really necessary anyway in the
single vineyards and the fact that our winery is located and 25 % in how does it affect you? Elsarner Brandstatt. In terms of Wachau. At least not for export
recently they have been brough to Spitzer Graben. But then again, I’d Wachau, that is already quite far markets!
the fore even more. I’m talking about lose a lot of time driving around! I have noticed that our harvesting away from our home.
the “romanic” system of putting an strategy has changed dramatically * As from vintage 2020, the
emphasis on the origin versus the Jokes aside - working organically or in recent years (at which point of What is your opinion on the protected designation of ori-
“germanic" system of highlighting biodyn, I think it would be challen- time do I pick the grapes in a specific climatic differences between gin, DAC (Districtus Austriae
the grape variety. To be honest, I ging to cultivate vineyards that are vineyard). For example, I used to pick the East and West of the Controllatus) is also planned
haven't worried too much about too far apart and with completely the Riesling Smaragd from my steep Wachau region? (although not signed yet by law-
potential pros and cons of the single different rainfall conditions. If you’re vineyard Kollmütz during the last makers) for the Wachau, not as
vineyard focus. My single vineyards looking for a cooler stylistic, you’ll third of the harvest, now we often As a basic rule of thumb, it is of a replacement but in addition to
have always been my main focus find it more and more in vineyards pick it in the second week already! course safe to say that it’s cooler the established Steinfeder
and all of them carry a vineyard with a higher altitude - in my case in the west and grapes ripen at Federspiel-Smaragd classification.
designation - except for the “Pulp in Kollmitz, Postolern or Höll; but Your portfolio not only compri- a later point of time. Further- As in other DAC-regions, the
Fiction” wines (where I'm not there are also other examples like ses Veltliner and Riesling but also more, precipitation is higher concept will be based on the
allowed to state a vineyard name Steinertal, Kalkofen, etc... You cannot varieties like Pinot Gris, Zweigelt or there. Naturally, this implicates pyramid system of single vineyard
and which I market as “Landweine”). deny there’s a big influence by the Syrah. What about the typicity of advantages and disadvantages. of course, the processing of the wines – village wines – regional
I would not be opposed to indicating wine grower’s philosophy. We are vineyard sites for those? In some years, the sites in the wes- grapes. Ripeness can certainly be wines. Besides Grüner Veltliner and
the origin of these wines as well, trying to find a strategy for the hot tern part do not reach a satisfying delayed by careful vineyard Riesling, also other varieties planted
I have to admit. The typicity of a vineyard location ripeness at all! In the Loiben area, it management. in the Wachau for a long time (Pinot
is a hot topic, yes. However, is definitely warmer and drier, with Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Neu-
Your vineyards are located since hardly anyone vinifies his a stronger Pannonian influence. As for the Steinfeder, I do not believe burger, Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc,
more towards the western wines like I do, I can’t make However, also here, sites in higher that’s true! We produce Steinfeder Traminer, Pinot Noir, St. Laurent and
part of the Wachau, which is comparisons to other winemakers/ altitudes or those located in basins on a yearly basis. It has become Zweigelt) will be allowed to carry
said to have a cooler climate. wines. For me it’s a mix of the can be pretty cool. something of an art but not by blen- “Wachau DAC”. What’s more:
What’s your take on this and vineyard’s signature and the ding overripe and unripe grapes in hand picking will be a conditio
the wine grower’s influence winemaker’s one. But you can How does climate change order to achieve the required alco- sine qua non!
on the style of wines? easily detect it by tasting wines affect you? For example, isn’t it hol level. What we do, is to harvest
from locations where I grow increasingly difficult to harvest Federspiel, after that Steinfeder and
To be precise, my vineyards several varieties - like Postolern Steinfeder? then again Federspiel! Thanks to
are located exactly in the (with Grüner Veltliner and Pinot our diverse vineyard sites and the
middle of the region, in the Gris) or Kollmitz (with Riesling levels of ripeness they reach at dif-
moderate part of Wachau, i.e. and Pinot Blanc)! ferent periods, we do have room for
Fig. 1-2: © Branko Mucina | Fig. 3: © Florian Schulte
12 tHe HerB WItCH ProJeCt t H e V I n e YA r d A l P H A B e t 13
The vineyard alphabet
The Herb Witch Project Great wines are born in great vineyards. Origin is key: we want to know where a
product comes from, how it is made and who did it. Since centuries, winegrowers
have studied their land and have identified the best plots for their fruit. It is no
coincidence that many icon wines are recognizable not only by their producer but by
Birgit is our office manager and a driving force behind numerous their vineyard name – think of Burgundy, think of Piemonte and yes, of course, think
TOA operations. Apart from that she is deeply engaged with plants
of Austria. In our vineyard alphabet we would like to introduce to you the vineyards
and herbs. She observes the annual cycle and thinks a lot about the
essential processes and cycles in nature. In our „Herb Witch Project“ of the TOA wine partners. Step by step, letter by letter.
she shares her thoughts and impressions.
MY DIALOGUE WITH THE by the light impulse of the winter In the end I see about 20 different
WABI SABI PLANT BEINGS solstice in December, the plant world herbs, in the middle of winter.
is preparing for its new life cycle Overwhelmed by this abundance, I
It is a cold, wet and foggy winter within the upcoming annual cycle. am now starting to connect with the
day at the beginning of January. We Inside the earth, invisible to the plants. I’m studying their characte-
meet for gentle pruning in Franz' seeing eye, processes of healing and ristics, their essence, their individual
Wabi Sabi vineyard in Dürnstein in renewal are taking place at this very signatures. I am wondering: why do
the Wachau. moment. Once these changes have certain plants occur naturally in this
been completed on the inside, in the particular vineyard? What exactly
Veils of mist are passing through essence of things, they can emerge do these medicinal herbs point to-
the terraced vineyards, drifting over slowly and manifest. Grateful for wards? What is their significance for
the nearby riverbed of the Danube. what is going to be, I pause, I listen the soil, the cultivation of the soil, the
They prevent me from having my to the silence and I feel the peace use of biodynamic preparations, the
view wander into the distance and on the outside. prevailing (micro)climate, the symbi-
marvel at the magnificent landscape. osis with the vines and living beings,
The dense fog does not allow for I focus on the perception of the and much more? Above all, I wonder
any distractions. Due to the blurred vineyard and its vitality on the inside how we can benefit from these
field of vision, I shift my focus to and outside and I connect with the plants and their beings, from this F - FEUERSTEIG
the immediate, the essential of the four elements. The power of the natural herbal pharmacy in a mea- E - EXLBERG (FORMERLY KNOWN G - GALGENBERG
moment. earth, supporting and uplifting. The ningful way in order to stay healthy? AS FEUERSTEIG)
power of water, pure and liberating.
While the others are already busy The power of the air, relieving and Guided by the rhythm of the annual “Exlberg” is a vineyard a part of If you’re looking for outstanding Sankt We stay with the Pinot family, in fact
cutting and working, I absorb the attentive. The power of fire, warm cycle, by the nature beings and their which is also cultivated by renown Laurent, this is the place. („Feiersteig“ the “Galgenberg” vineyard (meaning
place and its plants. I walk through and transforming. I observe calmly incessant transformation, everything biodynamic grower Karl Fritsch ba- means something like „fire protection “gallows hill”, a rather gloomy name)
the rows of vines and pay attention; and invite the nature beings to show remains exciting and thrilling. Full of sed in Oberstockstall, in the Wagram belt – „Feier“ in this case being a yields both “cousins”, Pinot noir
I appreciate the place and I feel themselves, to interact. In this Wabi joy, I am looking forward to accom- region of Lower Austria. The site is dialect expression for “Feuer”). Erwin and Sankt Laurent, courtesy of the
gratitude. Sabi vineyard I see them reveal an panying this vineyard through the warm and aerated, lies on the typi- Tinhof’s Sankt Laurent Feiersteig Gruber family from Röschitz in Wein-
extraordinary variety of medicinal year and to finding answers to my cal loess soils and is thus perfectly grows on dry brown earth rich in viertel. With an altitude of some 300
I’m grateful for the abundance this herbs. It literally transforms into an questions, in order to increase my suited for red grapes. Karl vinifies limestone and on sandy subsoils, m, loess soils and limited yields, both
vineyard has given us over the past herbal spiritual space. I am delighted knowledge and to deal with further a fruit driven, medium bodied and the vines are up to 56 years old. This wines share similar character: they’re
year. Grateful and respectful for the and grateful towards the nature topics. super charming Pinot Noir Exlberg outstanding red wine combines power full of red and dark berry fruit, alluring
place and this very moment in time, beings for these impressions of that gives unanimous proof that with low alcohol, dark forest fruit, aromatics and a lively acidity –
for what is allowed to be. Retreat. mugwort, comfrey and nettle, mullein And for those who were wondering Wagram is also a land for cool reds! prunes and finely polished tannins. beautiful examples of cool climate,
Above ground, everything is at rest and dandelion, yarrow, ribwort and ... of course I did help pruning the cool reds.
now. Underground, already initiated wormwood, to name but a few. vines ;-)!
Fig. 1: © Branko Mucina Fig. 1: © Weingut Fritsch Fig. 2: © Weingut Tinhof Fig. 3: © Weingut Gruber Röschitz
14 PortrAIt PortrAIt 15
sandy-clay structure and calcareous Südsteiermark on the label forms the Hannes is an openminded man who
soil. Pinot Gris (see Grauburgunder generic base of the pyramid and at likes to explore new territories and is
Jägerberg), Morillon (a synonym for Sabathi, this means straight forward not afraid of alternative approaches.
Chardonnay) and Pinot Blanc grow light-footed wines with great fresh- Skin fermented Muskateller or
here, developing warm, floral fruit ness, lots of fruit character and joyful Sauvignon blanc vinified in amphorae
aromas and a tightly structured, drinking. Welschriesling, Weiß- show a different yet fascinating face
mineral palate. burgunder, Sauvignon or Scheurebe, of region, grapes and terroir. Worth
there is a wine for everyone. trying, no doubt!
Southern Styria – like other
appellations in Austria - uses So what about the distinctive-
the “Burgundian-style” pyramid ness of Styrian wines compared
which classifies wines following to Sancerre or New Zealand and
their origin. The single vineyard their common signature variety
wines are (naturally) on top, next Sauvignon blanc? For sure, much
come the “Ortsweine” i.e. of the answer depends on indi-
“village” wines. Whereas the vidual approaches. For Sabathi,
single vineyard gems represent it is the salty, mineral structure
the purest expression of Sabathi’s that stands out. The fruit
best sites, the Gamlitz range character is more subtle than for
shows the diversity and typicity example in New Zealand, not
of the various vineyards surroun- as overtly exotic but gripping
ding this village. With Sauvignon at the same time. The acidity is
Blanc, Chardonnay or Gelber well integrated, as is the use of
Hannes Sabathi : brilliant expressions of Styria Muskateller, all carrying the suffix oak for the signature wines. All
“Gamlitz”, you’ll taste a perfect in all, it’s the inherent elegance
interpretation of the region - and noblesse that really make a
Do Styrian Sauvignon blanc wines an extended vegetation period are the backbone, the ground on Sabathi style! Fruit driven but difference. Sabathi and Süd-
have a one of a kind taste profile? ensuring slow maturing of the which everything is built. The roots structured, at all times supported steiermark, they belong on the
Many wine lovers would gladly (mainly) white grapes. Now, what depicted on the labels, they do have by great acidity. world wine map for a reason…
agree. What’s more, Styrian white one makes of this is far from auto- a meaning. The Sabathi family is
wines have not only gained in matic - cultivation methods, treat- proud to possess parcels in some of
reputation in the last decades but ments, picking periods and vinifi- the region’s most extraordinary hills
have also conquered the wine lists cation being part of the terroir. The (see “-berg” as an ending to almost
of many restaurants all over the human decision factor, here we go. every vineyard name).
world. So there must be something
to this extraordinary beautiful There’s Kranachberg for example,
landscape and the wines it yields. I GOT ROOTS with its permeable, sandy gravel soils.
Is it the soils? The climate? The They convey freshness and salty
grapes? Or is it the wine grower? The most important thing for me minerality. Wines from this site (such
Speaking of, Hannes Sabathi lives is to make authentic, earth-driven as Sauvignon Blanc, Weißburgunder
and works on the “Kranachberg” wines that may well have rough & Morillon Kranachberg) are always
near Gamlitz in the breath-taking edges, but which radiate personality. characterized by a firm yet elegant
wine growing region of Southern This style may not be in line with the structure and noble aromas. In
Styria. Here, the conditions for Styrian mainstream and not every- extraordinary years, selected grape
extraordinary wines are unique, but one will like it, but it challenges the material from this vineyard is des-
would you have thought otherwise? consumer to deal with the wines tined for the Sauvignon Blanc and
In Austrian winelands, the hills and more intensively. Morillon Reserve wines. They excel
slopes of Styria are unmatched in with their unmistakable minerality
altitude and steepness thus require Says Hannes. He has taken res- and huge potential – do not drink
dedicated manual work. As for the ponsibility for the family estate (in them too early!
climate, it is warm and sunny (see possession since 1860) in 2005 and
the proximity to the Mediterranean), has since developed his very own The south facing Jägerberg lies at an
pretty humid and those warm days style of cultivating the vineyards altitude of around 350 metres above
are followed by cool nights. and vinifying his wines. As for any sea level and is an ideal location
Combine all of this and you’ll see great wine estate, the sites and soils for Burgundy varieties thanks to its
Fig. 1: © Stefan Robitsch Fig. 2-4: © Weingut Hannes Sabathi | Fig. 5: © Stefan Robitsch
16 V I n tAGe 17
REINHOLD KRUTZLER
PERWOLFF 2009
In the last Toazine we have pre-
sented the iconic Perwolff on the
occasion of its 25th anniversary.
Being a wine with great ageing
potential, there’s no surprise also
2009 is among the best. 2009 was
a superb vintage, the grapes were
able to ripen perfectly thanks to a
beautiful autumn, claims Reinhold
Krutzler from Southern Burgenland’s
Eisenberg region. Perwolff is based
on the top Blaufränkisch grapes
from Deutsch Schützen and
Eisenberg vineyards and is
aged in barriques and 500-
liter barrels. Having changed
the “recipe” to 100% Blauf-
ränkisch as from the 2012
vintage, the 2009 still con-
tained a little portion of
Cabernet Sauvignon. The ERWIN TINHOF
wine shows beautifully now, BLAUFRÄNKISCH
Red Edition showcasing black berries, GLORIETTE 2009
sweet spice, it is juicy,
elegant and boasts a
tight texture with ripe A great terroir for Blaufränkisch
History is able to teach us invaluable things. Understanding acidity. A delicate and is also the Leithagebirge west of
what has happened and why things have turned out they way harmonious Per- Lake Neusiedl. The Erwin Tinhof
they did helps us deal better with present challenges. This wolff, estate cultivates top sites directly
applies to wine in particular since it is a living product. We Reinhold maintains. in the region’s capital Eisenstadt
have tasted a wine in its youth and see it develop over time. and has been doing so organical-
The character changes, the fruit might fade, tannins get softer, ly for several years. One of these
VINTAGE REPORT 2009 tertiary aromas come up. Was it a great year or a lesser sites is called “Gloriette” and is
vintage? How does the wine show 5 years, 10 years, 20 (or planted with up to 60-years-old
For decades, the years ending with even more) years later? Is this (single) vineyard capable of Blaufränkisch vines. The soil is pure
9's have been regarded as great consistently yielding age-worthy wines? How did the shell limestone with little humus
vintages in Austria (probably by vinification back then influence the profile? cover. Gloriette is harvested by hand,
chance) and 2009 was no exception. fermented spontaneously in open
After a sufficiently humid winter We know very well that regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy or vats and matured for 24 months in
and spring, April was extremely Piemonte are famous for their mature masterpieces. But what barriques, 30% of which are new,
warm, followed by an unusually wet about Austria? To be fair, those bodybuilder blends from the late the rest up to 5 years old. 2009
May. The summer had it all. Hail, 90ties (think new barriques, think lot of extraction) did not fulfil was also a picture-perfect year for
thunderstorms, torrential rain and the hopes of some to compete with French Grand Crus. However, Tinhof, with a long vegetation period
short periods of heat reduced yields good producers have learned their lessons and we know now: and the bespoken Indian summer,
and required a lot of work in the the potential is there. Wines made from the best grape material which delivered ripe and healthy
vineyards. Luckily, this summer of and by highlighting elegance and structure are nowadays at eye grapes. How does the wine taste
extremes gave way to a comforting level with other iconic regions. This is especially (yet not exclu- today? Dark ruby red, fine spices,
warm autumn. From September till sively) true for Blaufränkisch, the unmistakable No. 1 when it noble wood, fresh structure. A very
October, the weather was warm and comes to quality and longevity. Let us take a look at the not too fine and typical Blaufränkisch
sunny and cool nights provided for distant but almost perfect vintage 2009. Some bottles may still with great length and tension, it
perfect ripening. Once again, 2009 be available and they will for sure live for another 10 years – combines elegance with power,
kept the promise of the legendary 9. patience will be rewarded. says Erwin Tinhof.
Fig. 1: © Weingut Krutzler | Fig. 2: © Weingut Tinhof
18 19
JOHANNES TRAPL
BLAUFRÄNKISCH
SPITZERBERG 2009
Moving up from south to north, we
leave Burgenland and arrive in
Carnuntum. Here, at the last exten-
sion of the Little Carpathians, right
at the border to Slovakia lies the
Spitzerberg (also see our portrait
on the grower and this exceptional
site on page XY). The Spitzerberg
probably yields one of the most deli-
cate, almost Pinot-like Blaufränkisch
examples – at least when taken care
of by quality freak Johannes Trapl.
The 2009 edition has been har-
vested on October 3 and 100 % GRUBER RÖSCHITZ
foot stomped (a not so common CUVÉE ROYALE 2009
but very gentle way of extracting
colour and tannins), 5% of the Yes, single varietal Blau-
grapes having been left as whole fränkisch accounts for some
bunches. After 6-9 days of ma- of the most acclaimed wines
ceration the grapes have been from Austria. However, it’s not
pressed and transferred into 450 only about the variety but also
and 500-liter barrels (30% new). about the wine-growers skills
The wine was bottled in May and passion. Plus, cooler regions
2011. Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg such as Weinviertel can also
always needs a couple of years deliver age-worthy reds given
to open up, it is very tight in its the fact that warm vintages more
youth, says Johannes Trapl. and more provide for good condi-
Thus, 2009 is built to last, tions and ripe grapes. Family
still showing lots of red fru- Gruber in Röschitz has believed
its, great acidity and finely in the potential of their reds for a
grained tannins. long time and their Cuvée Royale
2009 is a beautiful example for
that. In Weinviertel, the 2009
vintage was pretty similar to the rest
of the wine growing regions in terms
of challenging weather in spring and
summer and its happy ending in
autumn. The Cuvée Royale is a
blend of Zweigelt and Merlot, both
from single vineyard Galgenberg
(loess and loam). After meticulous
selection the wine was vinified and
aged in barriques, 15 months for the
2009. How do the Grubers like it? It
is surprisingly youthful and vivid,
very elegant and fruit driven (sour
cherries, red currants) there is no
sign of dried fruits. Add great acidity
to the mix and here you go - a won-
derfully matured cool cimate red!
Fig. 3: © Weingut Trapl | Fig. 4: © Weingut Gruber Röschitz Fig. 5: © Branko Mucina20 PortrAIt PortrAIt 21
AGAINST ALL ODDS and Rosé are mostly vinified in steel, glistening acidity. Only experts can
they convey drinking pleasure do Sankt Laurent!
Johannes Trapl wondered: what is without being boring for a second.
typical of my region? How should When it comes to vinification,
white wines from Carnuntum taste? Carnuntum white and Carnuntum Johannes relies on different vessels:
Which red grapes are true represen- red carry their name for a reason. stainless steel tanks, used barrels
Johannes Trapl – courage pays off tatives of my homeland? What is They combine the typical grape (most of them of 500 litres) and a
it about the unusual, hardly known varieties in the respective wine whole range of amphorae. All ageing
terroir of the Spitzerberg? And colour (Grüner, Pinot blanc and methods and almost all grape varie-
how can I treat the top variety of Welschriesling for the white as ties come together in the fascinating
Blaufränkisch so that it can show an well as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and Rosé Uni6. Perhaps the only concept
individual image of Carnuntum - and Sankt Laurent for the red), are aged wine in the house, but what a Rosé!
not taste like hundreds of other su- for an extended period of time and The Karpatenschiefer, on the other
per-ripe specimens that have been show more complexity. hand, is a Grüner Veltliner, which was
so fashionable over the last 20 matured in amphorae to show the
years? The answer lies - as different, distinctive facets
always - in the vineyard. of this all-Austrian grape.
Johannes has been
cultivating his vineyards FINALLY : THE
organically since 2010, SPITZERBERG!
Stixneusiedl. A name that rings Johannes Trapl started as a wine- concept in the region until recently the entire estate having
a bell, doesn’t it? Ok, not so much maker from scratch. He was a young (despite mostly low occurrence of been certified since 2016. The Spitzerberg is the
(it’s a village, fyi). Let’s try Carnun- man, when his father handed over fungal diseases), not to mention bio- In 2018 the Demeter last extension of the Little
tum, the region he lives in. Better? the business to him in the early dynamic approaches. Someone who logo has been added the Carpathians reaching in
For people who know the Austrian 2000s but he gave him the freedom harvested weeks before the others labels. It is the vineyard from Slovakia. Its barren,
wine landscape in depth, for the to do whatever he wanted - provi- and whose wines barely exceed which enables the desi- extremely dry limestone
real wine pro’s, probably yes. One ded he took the consequences. A 12.5% alc. had to be considered a red style: vines in natural soils with traces of schist
reason for this is Johannes Trapl. first courageous step in Johannes' stranger, eyed suspiciously, often balance, healthy soils carry very old Blau-
How come? wine CV. He subsequently started criticized. and biodiversity allow for fränkisch vines and give
to build up the formerly miniscule earlier harvest of already birth to an extraordinary
The small Carnuntum region (na- winery step by step. Whilst ripe grapes, which pro- wine (Blaufränkisch Ried
med after an old Roman settlement) acquiring additional plots duce elegant, exciting Spitzerberg) whose
extends east of Vienna up to the of land his mindset evolved wines with digestible character is pretty unique
border with Slovakia. The vineyards around one question: how alcohol levels. The cellar in Austria. How does it
are situated south of the Danube could he show a different - work is merely the final taste? It’s all about deli-
over three hilly landscapes: the truly authentic - face of the consequence, thousands cacy, structure and a long
Leithagebirge, the Arbesthaler region? of hours of work have to life. Red fruit elegance
Hügelland and the Hainburger be done outside. It took meets high tannins and
Berge. In Stixneusiedl, you’ll find To understand the audacity time and a lot of effort, but this acidity, exceptional length and
heavy soils of loam and loess, as of this step, one needs to is what Johannes wanted. In the past, Trapl wines also carried subtle power. You will have to wait
well as sandy and gravelly soils. know what the Carnuntum the addition Reserve on the label. a couple of years so it can reveal its
A Pannonian climate with hot region stands for. Although Today they no longer do so, since full potential, yes. But Johannes did
summers and cold winters, the white and red grapes share FINE WINES INDEED "Reserve" suggests that other wines not give up either, do you remember?
nearby Danube and Lake Neusiedl roughly equal parts of are “smaller”. Hence, Johannes is
allow the grapes to ripen fully. Thus, vines planted, the region is There is a central ideal that runs more concerned with their typicity
in principle, the conditions for great more likely to be seen as a through all wines made by Trapl: than power, it’s their origin that
wines could hardly be better… red wine region. Zweigelt is all of them are lean, precise and matters. Blaufränkisch Prellenkirchen
the king, usually picked as light-footed. The differences lie, obvi- already shows the winegrower's
ripe as possible and vinified ously, in the respective grape variety great enthusiasm for this exceptio-
to power wines, along with and its ageing, the emphasis being nal grape variety - firm, lively, cool
Zweigelt-based cuvées, more or less on fruit and structure. fruit and fine tannins. Sankt Laurent
them too bragging with Palpable acidity is a must, it is the is another favourite, because this
their muscles. Biological backbone of all wines. To start with, Diva in the vineyard demands a lot.
farming used to be an alien the “classic” Grüner Veltliner, Zweigelt Pinot-like in structure, darker in fruit,
Fig. 1: © Steve Haider | Fig. 2: © Branko Mucina Fig. 3-5: © Weingut Johannes Trapl22 FA I r S 23
Fair Business
Wine fairs are part of the business just like acidity is part of wine.
They can be challenging, but you can't do without them. Meticulous
preparation, concentration and focus during the fair as well as
precise post-processing are the decisive factors for a successful fair.
KARL FRITSCH MICHAEL GINDL CHRISTOPH HOCH
ROTER VELTLINER FLORA 2019 GRÜNER VELTLINER
UNFILTRIERT 2018 HOLLENBURGER NV
Luckily, Karl also grows the Wagram Available as from May, the fragrant Christoph’s wines are non-vintage
flagship Roter Veltliner. This unfil- (Riesling, Scheurebe, Muskateller) but you must absolutely try this
tered beauty (spicy, tangy, great representative of the Gindl House latest edition of the Grüner. The
length) is the perfect result of great of Lords (ok, wines) is not going to blending of younger and reserve lots
grower + great variety. disappoint you in its 2019 edition. really does make sense!
Of course not!
ALL OVER THE WORLD GOALS wine fair VieVinum from 6 to 8 June
at the Hofburg in Vienna. It will once
TOA and its partners have been Of course, it is always great to meet again be an honour to welcome and
participating in the most important a new promising partner at the support our partners in Austria’s
international and national trade fairs given fair. Someone you can imagine capital! Yes, we too complain about
for many years. Since 2002, we and working together in the future – in the fair madness from time to time.
our partners have been participating the best case over many years and But we can't imagine life without it!
in the (at least to this day) most building on mutual trust. However,
important wine fair in the world, the acquisition of new partners Now, the Prowein in Germany
the Prowein in Düsseldorf. Also at should - from our point of view - has just been postponed due to the
Vinexpo (formerly taking place in never be the only goal you’re looking corona virus. In light of these
Bordeaux, now in Paris) you can for. Maintaining existing contacts is developments, it will be interesting
regularly find a TOA stand and the no less important. Business partners to see how the wine fair business
MillésimeBio in Southern France’s and winemakers exchange informa- is going to react – and to continue.
Montpellier is anyway part of the tion about new developments, taste It is probably way too early for any
fixed program for the organically the current vintages and discuss serious assessment. As Austrians,
certified wineries. Each fair has its strategies. More than often it is we hope that the VieVinum will take
own characteristics and challenges. simply about saying hello, of showing place as planned. However, should
The sheer size of Prowein, for that one is on the spot, at the pulse wine fairs continue to be postponed
example, with its thousands of of time. or cancelled in the foreseeable WINZERHOF HOCH HOCHDEUTSCH WEIN REINHOLD KRUTZLER
exhibitors and even more visitors is future, we would like to offer you at PETER & PAUL RED 2018 MEA ELDERFLOWER WELSCHRIESLING 2019
particularly challenging. Add to the For the TOA partner wineries, 2020 least a little virtual wine fair kind of
mix astronomic prices and a crowded has already been a busy year when compensation. Without any claim to Cool climate reds rightfully enjoy You fancy herbs? You fancy wine? Reinhold is a master of Blaufränkisch,
city. The industry professionals it comes to trade fairs. MillésimeBio completeness, we present a couple increased popularity. This fruit driven, There is no way around Julie’s extra- no doubt. His spicy and refreshing
know what we’re talking about. Yet, in January in Montpellier and Vinexpo of beautiful wines made by TOA super fresh example is a blend of ordinary botanical sparkling (a Welschriesling will show you why
everybody’s there: buyers, exhibitors, Paris in mid-February. In even years, winegrowers. Have a look at new stainless steel and large oak. 2 marriage of biodyn elderflower tea, Südburgenland has always been a
important contacts. With good plan- however, it is also time to represent releases and current vintages! philosophies, one joy. biodyn wine and refreshing fizzle). region for great whites too!
ning, the big fairs do make sense! “at home”. That's exactly what we
will be doing at the largest Austrian
Fig. 1: © ÖWM/Vincent Krieger | Fig. 2: TOA © Yannik Rohrer24 25
ERICH MACHHERNDL CLAUS PREISINGER RUDI RABL TEGERNSEERHOF ERWIN TINHOF JOHANNES TRAPL
PULP FICTION KALKUNDKIESEL PINOT NOIR RIESLING SMARAGD RIED NEUBURGER SANKT LAURENT 2018
VI 2018 ROT 2018 ALTE REBEN 2016 STEINERTAL 2018 EISENSTADT 2018
Your outside-the-box Rosé from Low alc., low intervention, low sul- Kamptal and Rudi, they can also do One of Martin Mittelbach’s coolest Looking for an alternative to Grüner This masterpiece proves 2 things:
Wachau: 7 parts Syrah, 1 part phites. High pleasure, high esteem. Pinot. Old vines, judicious use of oak sites and we’re not speaking of and Riesling? Then try this extremely concentration of flavour does
Zweigelt, gentle pressing, no filtration, That’s what Claus’ reds convey and and sufficient time to mature, that’s climate only. A young, powerful drinkable, native grape. You can’t not need high alcohol. And: Sankt
no added sulphites. Rose hip, red that’s what we love! the recipe. A savoury, spicy and Riesling, with racy acidity, vibrant go wrong with Neuburger made by Laurent is worth fighting for.
currant - embrace the dark side elegant red, that’s the result. fruit and plenty of life ahead! Tinhof! Thank you, Mr. Trapl!
of Rosé.
GRUBER RÖSCHITZ HANNES SABATHI THOMAS STRAKA WACHTER-WIESLER JOHANNES ZILLINGER
GRÜNER VELTLINER GRAUBURGUNDER STRATOS WEISS 2018 BLAUFRÄNKISCH GRÜNER VELTLINER
SEKT RESERVE 2016 JÄGERBERG 2018 DEUTSCH-SCHÜTZEN 2017 NUMEN 2018
Sekt can be easy and light, ok. This single vineyard top notch Grau- Tom is our main expert on the One of the new „village” (so to say) If Veltliner grapes could speak, they
Family Gruber’s 2016 Reserve strives burgunder is a true First Growth (the ancient grape of Welschriesling. In Blaufränkisch at Wachter-Wiesler. would ask for Johannes’ care, fer-
for greater things: body, creamy 2018 as from May). Dried herbs, this highly quaffable blend, it is 24 months in big oak, juicy, down to mentation in amphorae and exten-
texture and ripe fruit. Get some food elegant and soft yet with fascinating married to Chardonnay and Riesling. earth, unfiltered. No make-up. sive time in old acacia barrels. And
and fill your glasses! structure and potential for many years. Authentic – just like the wine grower! This is how we roll! they would want to end up as Numen.our PA rt n e r S eVentS
Upcoming Events
TOA @ VIEVINUM
6 – 8 June 2020 in Vienna, Austria
www.vievinum.at
TOA @ VINEXPO HONGKONG
8 – 10 July 2020 in Hongkong
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