Lavender gLazed duck with fenneL and peaches
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
daniel humm's RECIPES
Lavender
glazed duck
with fennel and
peaches
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Francesco Tonelli
Serves 8
INGREDIENTS
Duck jus
26kg duck carcasses, cut into 5cm pieces
4tbsp duck fat
900g sliced onions
450g diced carrots
450g diced celery
450g diced leeks
450g diced celery root
5tbsp tomato paste
16oz port
24oz red wine
10 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
25 peppercorns
1.36kg chicken feet
10l chicken stock
Duck spice
227g Szechuan peppercorns
227g dried coriander seeds
113g cumin seeds
113g dried lavender flowers
Roasted ducks
2 Muscovy ducks, head on
450g lavender honey
Salt, to season
Duck spice
Duck sauce
3 lemons
4 limes
2 oranges
I
FOUR 1
daniel humm's RECIPES
1kg sugar wine and reduce to syrup consistency. Make Peach Confit
3 pods star anise a sachet by tying the thyme, bay leaves, Preheat the oven to 93C. Cut each peach
1 tbsp butter and peppercorns in cheesecloth. Add the into quarters. Slice cut each quarter into
450g duck Jus chicken feet, carcass bones, and sachet 3 ½-moons. You should have 12 wedges
½ tsp raspberry vinegar to the stockpot and cover with the chicken per peach. Dress with olive oil, lime juice,
½ tsp salt stock. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and salt. Line a rimmed baking sheet with
and skim the stock of all impurities and fats parchment paper. Arrange the wedges on
Compressed peaches that rise to the top. Simmer, uncovered, over the parchment and sprinkle with pepper
3 very firm but ripe peaches low heat for 5 hours, skimming every 30 and the confectioners’ sugar. Bake for 45
59ml sauternes minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh chinois minutes.
and reduce to 1l. Strain again and chill over
Peach confit ice. Fennel Tears
8 large peaches Pull apart the fennel petals and trim the tops
2 tbsp olive oil Duck spice and the bottoms to make even widths. Cut
2 tbsp lime juice In a spice grinder, grind the Szechuan them into 3.8x1.9cm isosceles triangles.
Salt peppercorns, coriander, and cumin until Using a paring knife, round of the bottoms to
Black pepper roughly ground. Transfer to a bowl and stir in form tear shapes. Trim them to ¹/8” thickness.
1 tbsp confectioners’ sugar the lavender flowers. Combine the white wine, Pernod, star anise,
fennel seeds, and lemon peel in a small
Fennel tears Roasted ducks saucepan over medium heat and reduce by
2 fennel bulbs Dry the ducks completely with paper towels. half. Add ¼ cup water and the salt. Place the
118ml white wine Use meat hooks to hang them by their necks Fennel Tears and ¼ cup of the cooking liquid
2 tbsp Pernod in a refrigerator with good air circulation. Allow in a SousVide bag. Vacuum-seal and steam
3 pods star anise to age and dry for a minimum of 8 days and at 90C for 35 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of
¼ tsp fennel seeds a maximum of 14 days. When ready to cook, ice water. Once cool, remove the fennel tears
4 pieces lemon peel preheat a convection oven to 190C. Remove from the bag.
½ tsp salt and discard the neck, feet, and wing tips, and
truss the ducks with butcher’s twine. Rub Fennel and Potato PurÉe
Fennel and potato purée thoroughly with honey, being sure to coat all Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil.
57g fennel fronds of the skin. Season with salt, then coat evenly Add the fennel fronds, cooking for a few
2 tbsp butter with the duck spice. Place on a roasting rack seconds, until just wilted. Transfer to a bowl
450g fennel, diced (¼ inch) and roast for 8 minutes. Rotate the duck and of ice water and, once cold, drain. Melt the
450g La Ratte fingerling potatoes, peeled return it to the oven for another 8-9 minutes. butter in a medium saucepan over medium
and diced (¼ inch) Remove from the oven, and rest for 12-15 heat. Add the diced fennel and potatoes and
1½ tsp salt minutes before carving. sweat until soft and translucent, about 15
minutes. Add 2 ½ cups water and simmer
To Finish Duck Sauce for 25 minutes. Purée the cooked fennel and
Brown butter Zest and juice the lemons, limes, and potatoes in a blender until smooth. Blend in
Fleur de sel oranges. Combine the juices in one bowl the blanched fennel fronds and season with
and the zests in another. Place the sugar the salt. Pass the purée through a fine-mesh
METHOD in a medium saucepan over medium heat. tamis and chill over ice.
Caramelise to a very deep amber colour. Add
Duck jus the star anise and the citrus juices to stop To finish
Preheat the oven to 190C. Line 2 large the cooking. Reduce by ¾, or until thick and Warm the fennel and potato purée in a small
rimmed baking sheets with parchment syrupy. Add the zest and butter and chill. In a saucepan over low heat. Carve the breasts
paper. Spread the duck bones in a single separate pot, heat the duck jus and add 1½ off of the roasted ducks. Slice into even
layer on the baking sheets and roast the tablespoons of the citrus syrup. Season with pieces and brush with brown butter and
bones in the oven until golden brown, the vinegar and salt. season with fleur de sel. Put 2 duck slices
1-1hour 15 minutes, turning the bones over on a plate. spoon the fennel and potato
once after 20 minutes. Melt the duck fat in Compressed Peaches purée onto the plate and garnish with the
a 22l stockpot over high heat. Sautée the Cut the peaches into quarters and slice compressed peaches and peach confit and
onions, carrots, celery, leeks and celery root each quarter into thin half-moons. Arrange the tears. Finish with the duck sauce. Repeat
in the duck fat until they caramelise, about the peaches in a SousVide bag and add the with the remaining ingredients, to serve 8.
7-10 minutes. Add the tomato paste and Sauternes. Vacuum-seal and allow them to
sautée until caramelised, 5-7 minutes. Add marinate. Remove them from the bag when
the port and reduce by half. Add the red ready to serve.
FOUR 2 I
daniel humm's RECIPES
John Dory
Poached with citrus, daikon
radishes and olio nuovo
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Francesco Tonelli
Serves 8 Dried Citrus 1 tbsp chicken stock
2 pink grapefruits 1 tbsp butter
INGREDIENTS 2 navel oranges ½ tsp salt
2 blood oranges
Chicken Stock 2 tbsp confectioners’ sugar Pickled Daikon
26kg chicken backs and necks 227g white balsamic vinegar
39kg ice cubes Citrus Beurre Blanc 57g sugar
227g diced leeks, white part only 470ml grapefruit juice 2oz salt
113g diced celery 235ml orange juice 1 jumbo daikon radish, about 3 inches in
113g diced celery root 354ml lemon juice diameter
113g sliced shallots 5.2kg cold butter, cubed
113g diced fennel 1½ tsp salt Daikon Vinaigrette
5 white peppercorns 354ml cups chicken stock
1 bay leaf Edamame 118ml daikon pickling liquid (from pickled
1 sprig thyme 450g shelled edamame daikon recipe)
FOUR 3 I
daniel humm's RECIPES
1½ tsp honey Place in the oven overnight to dehydrate. ice. With a hand blender, slowly emulsify the
236ml canola oil Cool to room temperature. Trim the citrus canola oil into the reduction and gradually
0.3g xanthan gum into 1.3cm pieces and store in an airtight sprinkle in the xanthan gum. The vinaigrette
1 tsp salt container. should be white and slightly thickened.
1 pinch cayenne pepper Season with the salt and cayenne and store
Citrus Beurre Blanc in a squeeze bottle at room temperature until
Poached John Dory Combine the juices in a medium straight- ready to use.
1.8l chicken stock sided saucepan and reduce to 2 cups over
5 cloves garlic, peeled and cut in half high heat. Lower the heat to medium and Poached John Dory
5 sprigs thyme whisk in the cubed butter, little by little, until Preheat the oven to 150C. To make the
1½ tbsp plus 1 ½ teaspoons salt all the butter is fully emulsified. Remove from poaching liquid, combine the chicken stock,
113g cornstarch the heat and season with the salt. Keep warm garlic and thyme in a large pot and bring to a
8 John Dory fillets until ready to use. rolling boil. Season with the 1½ tbsp salt. In
a mixing bowl, whisk together ½ cup water
To Finish Edamame and the cornstarch. When the chicken stock
4 spring onions Bring a pot of salted water to the boil. Add is at a full boil, whisk in the cornstarch mixture
Fleur de sel the edamame and cook for 2 minutes. and boil for 3 minutes to cook out the starch.
32 sprigs petite Spanish tarragon Transfer to a bowl of iced water, and once Strain into a deep baking dish and allow to
4 tsp olio nuovo cold, drain. Gently peel the outer membrane cool to 60C. Place the baking dish in the oven
off of the edamame. Heat the edamame and to keep the poaching liquid warm. Season the
METHOD chicken stock in a large sautée pan over John Dory on both sides with the remaining
medium-high heat. Once warmed through, 1½ tsp salt. Place the fillets in the poaching
Chicken stock add the butter and reduce to glaze, about 1 liquid and poach until the fish can be easily
Rinse the bones well under running water for minute. Season with the salt. pierced with the tip of a knife, 6-7 minutes.
5 minutes. Place the bones in a 22l stockpot, Using a fish spatula, remove the fillets from
top with the ice and bring to a simmer over Pickled daikon the poaching liquid and drain them on paper
medium heat. Skim all of the impurities and Make a pickling liquid by heating the vinegar towels. Rest the fish for 1 minute.
fats off the top as it simmers. After the stock with the sugar and salt in a small saucepan
is skimmed, add the leeks, celery, celery over medium heat. Thinly slice the daikon To Finish
root, shallots and fennel. Make a sachet by on a Japanese mandoline and cut the slices Trim off the green tops of the spring onions
wrapping the peppercorns, bay leaf and with a ring cutter that is 4.5cm in diameter. so that 7cm remain on the bottom. Shave
thyme in a piece of cheesecloth. Add the Place the daikon slices and 3tbsp of the the spring onions on a Japanese mandoline,
sachet to the stock. Simmer, uncovered, for 3 pickling liquid in a SousVide bag, making starting with the root end, about 15mm thick.
hours, skimming every 30 minutes. Strain and sure that the slices do not overlap. Vacuum- Reserve the spring onion shaves in ice water
chill over ice. seal. Alternatively, bring the pickling liquid to until ready to serve. Spoon 2 tbsp of the
a simmer in a small saucepan over medium citrus beurre blanc on top of each John Dory
Dried citrus heat. Place the daikon slices in a large bowl fillet to coat evenly. Season with fleur de sel.
Preheat the oven to 80C. Cut off the top and pour the hot liquid over them. Cool to Place the glazed poached John Dory in the
and bottom of the citrus fruits. Remove the room temperature. centre of a plate. Arrange 6 Daikon pickles
rind, along with any white pith. With a paring and 2tbsp edamame on and around the fish.
knife, cut between the membranes to yield Daikon vinaigrette Garnish with 2 spring onion shaves, 4 petite
individual segments of fruit. Line up the Combine the chicken stock, daikon pickling Spanish tarragon sprigs and 1 tbsp dried
segments on an acetate-lined baking sheet liquid and honey in a small saucepan and citrus. Finish with 1tsp the daikon vinaigrette
and sprinkle with the confectioners’ sugar. reduce by half over medium heat. Chill over and ½tsp olio nuovo.
FOUR 4 Idaniel humm's RECIPES
Roasted
tenderloin with
bone marrow
crust, Swiss
chard and
chanterelles
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Francesco Tonelli
Serves 8
INGREDIENTS
Chicken stock
4.5kg chicken backs and necks
6.8kg ice cubes
227g diced leeks, white part only
113g diced celery
113g diced celery root
113g sliced shallots
113g diced fennel
5 white peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
Veal jus
9kg veal knuckle bones, cut into 5cm
pieces
2kg veal feet, cut into 5cm pieces
59ml canola oil
907g sliced onions
907g diced carrots
907g diced celery
907g diced leeks
907g diced celery root
113g tomato paste
950ml red wine
10 sprigs thyme
25 black peppercorns
I
FOUR 5daniel humm's RECIPES
2 bay leaves Bordelaise sauce 5 minutes. Place the bones, veal breast, and
13kg ice cubes 950ml veal jus veal feet in a 22l stockpot. Cover with the
1tbsp olive oil ice and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
Veal stock 1tbsp minced shallots Skim all of the impurities and fats off the top
2kg veal bones 1tbsp thyme leaves as it simmers. After the stock is skimmed,
2kg veal breast, cut into 2-inch pieces 56g rendered marrow fat add the onion, celery, celery root, and leeks.
1.3kg veal feet, cut into 2-inch pieces ½ tsp salt Make a sachet by wrapping the peppercorns,
9kg ice cubes thyme, and bay leaf in a piece of cheesecloth.
227g sliced onion To finish Add the sachet to the stock. Simmer,
113g diced celery 112 small chanterelles uncovered, for 4 hours, skimming every 30
113g diced celery root 16 large Swiss chard leaves minutes. Strain and chill over ice.
113g diced leeks, white part only 2 tbsp butter
473ml white wine 5 sprigs thyme Braised oxtail
10 white peppercorns 1 clove garlic, crushed but kept whole Place the oxtails in a nonreactive container
5 sprigs thyme Salt, to taste with the onions, carrots, celery and celery root.
1 bay leaf Fleur de sel Add the red wine, cover, and refrigerate for
16 sprigs baby yellow chard 48 hours. Preheat the oven to 135C. Remove
Braised oxtail the oxtails from the marinade and pat them
1.3kg beef oxtail METHOD dry. Season with salt. Strain the marinade,
3 white onions, diced reserving the liquid and the vegetables
2 carrots, diced Chicken stock separately. In a large saucepan, bring the
2 stalks celery, diced Rinse the bones well under running water liquid to a simmer, skimming off any fats and
½ celery root, diced for 5 minutes. Place the bones in a 22l impurities that rise to the top. Heat the oil in
3.75l red wine stockpot, top with the ice and bring to a a large straight-sided pan. Add the reserved
Salt, to season simmer over medium heat. Skim all of the vegetables and sweat over medium heat. Add
59ml canola oil impurities and fats off the top as it simmers. the tomato paste and sweat for 2 minutes.
59g tomato paste After the stock is skimmed, add the leeks, Deglaze the pan with the simmering liquid. Add
1.9l veal stock celery, celery root, shallots, and fennel. Make the veal stock, thyme, and bay leaves, bring
4 sprigs thyme a sachet by wrapping the peppercorns, bay to a simmer, and return the oxtails to the pan.
2 bay leaves leaf, and thyme in a piece of cheesecloth. Bring to a simmer, skimming the liquid. Cover
Add the sachet to the stock. Simmer, and braise in the oven for 4 hours or until
Beef uncovered, for 3 hours, skimming every 30 the meat is tender and falling from the bone.
900g beef tenderloin minutes. Strain and chill over ice. Remove the meat from the braising liquid and
Salt, to season pick the meat from the bones. Strain the liquid
1 sprig thyme Veal jus and reduce to a glaze. Add the picked meat
Preheat the oven to 190C. Spread the veal back to the liquid and glaze. Chill.
Thyme and garlic butter bones and feet in a single layer on 2 large
4 tbsp butter rimmed baking sheets and roast in the oven Beef
5 sprigs thyme until golden brown for 45 minutes to 1 hour, Season the beef with salt and place in a
2 cloves garlic, crushed but kept whole turning the bones and feet after 30 minutes. SousVide bag with the thyme. Vacuum-seal
Heat the oil in a 22l stockpot over high heat. and cook in a water bath maintained at 63C
Bone marrow crust Sautée the onions, carrots, celery, leeks, and by an immersion circulator for 25-30 minutes.
1 tbsp plus 1 cup butter, softened celery root until they caramelize for 10-15 Chill in an ice-water bath, remove from the
2 tbsp minced shallots minutes. Add the tomato paste and sautée bag and cut into 8 portions.
59g thyme leaves until caramelized for 5-7 minutes. Add the
59g chopped parsley red wine and reduce to a syrup consistency. Thyme and garlic butter
450g brioche breadcrumbs Make a sachet by tying the thyme, In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm
170g diced bone marrow peppercorns, and bay leaves in cheesecloth. the butter until the milk solids begin to brown.
1tsp salt Add the bones and feet to the stockpot with Add the thyme and garlic, remove from the
the sachet and cover with the ice. Bring to heat and cool to 65C.
Crushed potatoes a simmer over medium heat and skim the
900g fingerling potatoes, peeled stock of all impurities and fats that rise to the Bone marrow crust
Salt, to season top. Simmer over low heat, uncovered, for Heat 1 tbsp of the butter in a sautée pan.
113ml extra virgin olive oil 5 hours, skimming every 30 minutes. Strain Add the shallots and sweat for 5 minutes over
113g sliced chives through a fine-mesh chinois and reduce to low heat. Add the thyme and parsley and mix
1l. Strain again and chill over ice. thoroughly. Remove from the heat and cool.
Rendered Marrow Fat Combine with the breadcrumbs and then fold
12 6.5cm thick beef marrow bones Veal stock in the remaining 1 cup butter. Fold in the bone
59ml water Rinse the bones well under running water for marrow and season with the salt. Place
FOUR 6 Idaniel humm's RECIPES
the mixture between 2 sheets of parchment completely rendered, strain through a fine the butter, tossing to glaze. In another sautée
paper and roll to 32mm thick. Keep cool. mesh chinois, reserving only the liquid fat. pan, melt the remaining 1 tbsp of butter. Add
Punch out 8 crust disks to fit the top of the the chanterelles, thyme and garlic, sweating
beef tenderloin portions. Bordelaise sauce until the chanterelles are tender. Add the
In a small saucepan over medium heat, remaining 1 tbsp chicken stock, reducing
Crushed potatoes reduce the veal jus to 2 cups. Heat the oil in until almost dry. Season with salt and discard
Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan and a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the thyme and the garlic. Lay out 8 glazed
cover with cold water. Season with salt and the shallots and sweat. Add the reduced jus, Swiss chard leaves and place 1 ½ tbsp of
bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer bring to a simmer and add the thyme leaves. the warm braised oxtail in the centre of each
until tender for about 30-35 minutes. Strain. Break the sauce with the rendered marrow fat leaf. Wrap the leaf around the oxtail to create
Return the potatoes to the saucepan and and season with the salt. a small bundle. Roll each piece of beef in
crush with a fork, adding in the extra-virgin the thyme and garlic butter. Top with a bone
olive oil. Stir in the chives and season with salt. To finish marrow crust disk. Broil on high for 1 minute
Clean the chanterelles of all dirt with a paring until golden. Slice the beef in half lengthwise.
Rendered marrow fat knife and scrape any discoloration from the Brush the cut sides of the beef with thyme
Soak the bones in water for about 30 stems. Trim the bottoms and rinse thoroughly. and garlic butter and sprinkle with fleur de sel.
minutes. Once the marrow is soft, carefully Spread the chanterelles on paper towels Spoon the 1 tbsp of crushed potatoes on a
push it out of the bone. Cut the bone marrow to dry. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. plate. Place the bone marrow crusted beef on
cylinders into 1.3cm pieces. Place the bone Add the large Swiss chard leaves and cook top. Spoon the chanterelles around the beef
marrow and ¼ cup water in a medium pot for 15-20 seconds. Transfer to a bowl of ice and place a Swiss chard bundle and a glazed
over low heat. Render the marrow, making water, and, once cold, strain. In a sautée pan Swiss chard leaf above the beef. Finish the
sure not to brown it. Once all of the water over medium heat, warm 1 tbsp of chicken plate with the bordelaise sauce and garnish
has been cooked out and the marrow is stock with the Swiss chard. Add 1 tbsp of with 2 baby yellow chard sprigs.
FOUR 7 Idaniel humm's RECIPES
Cucumber
Variation with Slow-Cooked Char
and Smoked Crème Fraîche
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Francesco Tonelli
Serves 8 2 tbsp sesame seeds 415ml white balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp poppy seeds 3 tbsp salt
INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp salt
283g butter, room temperature Cucumbers
Smoked crème fraîche 113g dried caramelized onions 2 Persian cucumbers
225g crème fraîche 5 lemon cucumbers
2 tbsp lemon juice Arctic char White balsamic pickling liquid
2 tsp salt 7.8g arctic char, filleted, pin bones and skin 8 cucamelons (Mexican gherkins)
1.36kg applewood chips removed
1.8kg charcoal (not briquettes) Salt, to season To Finish
237ml extra virgin olive oil Extra virgin olive oil
Everything crumble 16tsp char roe
450g bread flour White balsamic pickling liquid 16 sprigs bronze fennel
57g sugar 415ml water 40 sprigs salad burnet
FOUR 8Idaniel humm's RECIPES
8tbsp freshly grated horseradish transferto an airtight container or vacuum-seal White balsamic pickling liquid
in a SousVide bag. Keep in the refrigerator for In a medium bowl, stir together the water
METHOD 2-3 days. and the vinegar. Add the salt, stirring until it
dissolves.
Smoked crème fraîche Everything crumble
In a small bowl, whisk together the crème Preheat the oven to 160C. Line a rimmed Cucumbers
fraîche, lemon juice, and salt. Transfer to baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine Cut 1 Persian cucumber in half lengthwise
a small pan over ice. Soak the applewood the flour, sugar, sesame seeds, poppy and slice on a Japanese mandoline into
chips in cold water for 5-10 minutes. Line seeds, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer. 32mm thick strips. Cut the other in half and
the cooking surface of a large cast-iron skillet Incorporate the butter, mixing at medium-high slice into rounds. Store in ice water. Cut
with aluminum foil. Place the charcoal in the speed. Spread the mixture onto the prepared the lemon cucumbers in wedges and place
pan and set over high heat until the coals baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes. Cool in a SousVide bag with the pickling liquid.
are white-hot. Remove from the heat. Drain to room temperature. Pulse briefly in a food Vacuum-seal. Cut the cucamelons in half,
the applewood chips. Place ¾ of the soaked processor until pea-sized. Add the dried lengthwise, and store in ice water.
chips on top of the coals and return the skillet caramelised onions.
to the burner until the chips begin to smoke. To Finish
Place the skillet in the oven on the lowest Arctic char Add 2 tsp smoked crème fraîche on a plate
rack. Place the bowl of crème fraîche on top Place the char in a plastic container. Cover and 1 tbsp of everything crumble between
of a tray of ice and place in the oven as far completely with salt and let cure in the them. Break the arctic char up with a fork
away as possible from the skillet. The crème refrigerator for 1 hour. Rinse thoroughly in and arrange it on and around the crumble.
fraîche should stay as cold as possible during cold water and pat dry. Preheat the oven to Garnish with the cucumbers, 2 tsp char
the smoking process. Smoke for 2 hours, 140F. Place the char in a roasting pan, skin roe, 2 bronze fennel sprigs, 5 salad burnet
checking the smoke level every so often; side down, and brush with olive oil. Bake leaves, and 1 tbsp grated horseradish.
the smoke should be heavy and constant. It for 15 minutes. Brush with olive oil again Repeat with the remaining ingredients, to
may be necessary to add more wood chips. and return to the oven for another 15 to 20 serve 8.
Remove the crème fraîche from the oven and minutes, or until the fish begins to flake.
FOUR 9IYou can also read
