June 2020 by Olivier Dupon - AWS
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Notes on an Obsession • June 2020 • by Olivier Dupon
Notes on an Obsession
Another rather different and longer Notes on an Obsession for
June 2020. At the time of writing this, most countries have relaxed
their lockdown measures while keeping strict guidelines in place
and there is no way to forecast what will happen next. What of
the high jewellery presentations that usually happen in June /
July (notably during Paris Couture)? With most workshops having
closed at the peak of the production period, it is impossible to
predict whether the houses will be ready; and if they will be,
what form will the presentations take? Moreover, no more red
carpet for the 2020 Cannes Film Festival; traditionally an event
for high jewellers to preview some of the key pieces from their
new high jewellery collections. This year, the famous festival goes
virtual instead, with one ground-breaking initiative, the Marché
Du Film Online (“a standalone online market created to support
the international film industry”). This is why, as per last month, I
have decided to present a few of the latest iterations of high and
fine jewellery, one playful new watch, a desirable clutch bag, an
essential book, cool sunglasses, some uplifting beauty products,
whimsical as well as elegant homewares. All have already been
launched, and are ready to be enjoyed. It is a mix of joy-inducing
creations that takes us on a tangent from the doom and gloom,
as we more than ever need some escapism. The DeluxePad team
and I wish that you, your family and friends are all safe and well.
Olivier Dupon
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Gem Bag in green satin
with precious clasp in white
gold set with diamonds and
tsavorite garnets. POA.
You may be planning how to safely get out of confinement, to step
into the limelight again. Here is an item that would serve both wishes.
A divine clutch bag by DIOR, the green satin minaudière Gem Bag,
resulting from the joined forces of two departments: accessory and
jewellery; in other words, the collaborative work between DIOR’s two
maestri: Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Director of Dior and Victoire
de Castellane, Artistic Director of Dior Joaillerie. The clutch bag truly
encapsulates both visions: effortless high fashion on one hand, with
poetic narrative on the other.
www.dior.com
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Details of the Gem Bag. View of the
compartments inside the clutch with
the mirror signed plaque; up-close
view of the bejewelled clasp and the
green satin Gem Bag on its own.
Lined with satin duchesse inside and out,
the bag is entirely assembled by hand
in the DIOR ateliers. The verdant body
is unadorned, except for the ravishing
bejewelled clasp that refers to the ‘Rose
Dior Bagatelle’ fine jewellery collection.
The clasp comes indeed as a delicate
rose in white gold, entirely paved with
diamonds and set with three tsavorite
garnets in the centre. A precious
signature that conjures the world of
couture and gardens, two of Mr Dior’s
well-known passions. In that respect,
it wasn’t by accident that the first bag
to be made would embrace the colour
of lush foliage. Naturally, the Gem Bag
can be commissioned in many different
colours or materials; and despite the
catchy name - in the same vein as Gem
Dior and Dior et Moi, two recent high
jewellery collections – make no mistake
that each Gem Bag is a splendid one-of-
a-kind creation.
www.dior.com
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Given the current situation that has forced most brands Pendant Necklace
courtesy of Hemmerle,
to invent new ways to communicate with their clientele, in copper, white and
HEMMERLE has found a simple and effective solution: a vir- red gold set with a
tual Spring Viewing 2020. Armed with a password, one can 19th century carnelian
cameo, on a carnelian
access a special website where all the new creations are pre- bead knitted cord. POA.
sented and quotes from Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle are
inserted throughout. Scrolling down a screen has never been
so captivating! The presentation is sharp and clean, just as
HEMMERLE’s overall creative style. From the nineteen or so
pieces, I picked four, one of which has since sold (and thus
cannot be featured here). First is the pendant necklace with
a rare 19th-century carnelian cameo that is magically held
within a cord woven of small carnelian beads. The cord itself
is the result of a complex Japanese-inspired technique (ku-
mihimo), where the beads are knitted in the round with hand-
dyed silk threads. There is something freeing in the way the
rare artefact is effortlessly held by a lasso knot. Then comes
a gem-packed ring set with a rather unusual main stone: a
rare Madagascar sapphire with a cerulean blue with teal and
steel undertones. The band is also entirely paved with round-
cut smaller sapphires of the same hue. Last is one of the new
Harmony bangles that offers two uninterrupted layers. One
inside the other, with a bronze main structure. The former is
snow-paved with brown diamonds, whilst the latter acts like
a shell and is peppered with holes of various sizes through
which the brilliance of the diamonds emerges. It is artistry
at its best: the full-on glimmer of the diamonds is contained
and controlled by the matt-polished bronze cover. I can only
encourage you to contact the HEMMERLE team and see for Hemmerle
Maximilianstrasse 14
yourself what the other great Spring 2020 renditions are. 80539 Munich
www.hemmerle.com +49 89 24 22 600
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Ring courtesy of Hemmerle, in Harmony Bangle courtesy of
silver and white gold set with Hemmerle in bronze and white
a 10.74-carat sapphire from gold set with brown diamonds.
Madagascar, and sapphires. POA. POA.
Hemmerle
Maximilianstrasse 14
80539 Munich
+49 89 24 22 600
www.hemmerle.com
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession Here is a triumvirate of beauty weapons that will help you get out of confinement with a renewed glow! Straight from PAT MCGRATH LABS, these three products may revolutionise your daily beauty routine, and as the bestselling line’s name suggests, become your new ‘fetish’. The packaging design itself is unfussy, in black and white with gold accents (for the brand name); it is cool luxury at its best and the brainchild of one of the most influential make-up artist / business guru, Pat McGrath (engaged as Global Beauty Creative Design Director by Procter & Gamble in 2004, she oversees Covergirl, Max Factor and created Dolce & Gabbana: The Makeup. Recently, she also designed and launched Gucci’s debut cosmetic collection). Let’s start with the Lip Fetish Balm with its hydrating clear texture that nourishes (vitamins, antioxidants and soothing emollients) all the while “leaving a sheer wash of a lip tint”. Then the ultimate skin corrector that provides a full coverage with a matte finish, the Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Concealer. “The creamy formula is infused with a hydrating Via-Serum Complex that fights signs of aging and Flex Form Matrix Lip Fetish Lip Balm – Clear. POA. technology for even tone”. Third is the final step, a lightweight, easy to blend setting powder (the Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Setting Powder). It uses the signature Flex Form Matrix technology to blur fine lines, pores and imperfections; “as well as amino acids for a true colour match and long-lasting results”. www.patmcgrath.com
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection
Concealer. POA. Setting Powder. POA.
www.patmcgrath.comJune 2020 Notes on an Obsession
SHAUN LEANE Deluxe Edition of 250, with 288
pages and 300 colour illustrations; published
by ACC Art Books. £399/ $450 (clean white
debossed cover, with Limited Edition silver ink
print on black archive paper of unseen Rob
Rusling image) / RRP Standard Edition (to
follow in 2020) £55/ $75.
Photograph of the Porcupine Quill
Fan Earrings worn on model, by Rob
Rusling for SHAUN LEANE, the book.
This is one not to be missed. I am talking about the
release of SHAUN LEANE, the much-anticipated
anthology book about the jewellery maestro of the
same name, who is celebrating a 21st anniversary
this year. Shaun Leane is the jeweller who has
defined armour-like, Nature-inspired hybrids
par excellence. In his work, motifs of flora and
fauna become talismans. Exotic feathers, gold
shaped into creepers or claws…notwithstanding
the danger element, each piece conveys a vital
force. In the book, texts are by renowned experts
Vivienne Becker, Joanna Hardy and Claire Wilcox.
There is a collectable, signed and dated, Deluxe
Edition of 250 copies that come in a “luxury
slipcase featuring a print of the iconic Porcupine
Quill Fan earrings created for Alexander McQueen’s
SS03 collection Irere” and “include a never-before-
seen print by photographer Rob Rusling”.
www.shaunleane.comJune 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Sabre Diamond Cuff in
black leather (featured in
SHAUN LEANE the book).
In the realm of all time creative collaborations,
that of Shaun Leane and the late Lee Alexan-
der McQueen is indeed iconic; in the sense
that the worlds of fashion and jewellery have
rarely collided so harmoniously than through
the talents of these two. The symbiosis with
which they have approached each project
is reflected in the fact that each jewellery
piece has turned out as an extension of the
garment, itself an extension of the body.
It is all beautifully captured in the many Diamond Orchid Earrings,
photographs of the 288-page book, by shot by Simon B Armitt (for
leading fashion photographers such as Ann sale and on display in the
Ray, Nick Knight and Rob Rusling. A standard upcoming Philips London
and New York exhibitions).
edition of the book will be published this
July, and coincidentally later in the year,
a SHAUN LEANE sales exhibition will take
place at Phillips London and New York. “The
exhibition will showcase an unprecedented
collection of important fine jewellery com-
missions, historical archive designs and
never-before-seen backstage photographs
by world renowned photographers Ann Ray,
Nick Knight, Robert Fairer and more”. Worth
noting that some fine jewellery creations will
also be put for sale on that occasion. Thistle Brooch (featured
Archive McQueen, in
www.shaunleane.com SHAUN LEANE the
book).June 2020 Notes on an Obsession Dumbbells; each weight Jump Rope Christopher; composed of is made from lustrous a leather strand and handles covered metal, is finished with an with dark, masculine Monogram eye-catching Monogram Eclipse canvas, the new Christopher Eclipse canvas handle jump rope is 3m long. POA. and House signature engravings. POA. Ping Pong Set James; ideal for travel, this sporty set includes two professionally designed ping-pong paddles, regulation balls in a custom holder, and an exclusive cover crafted of masculine Monogram Eclipse canvas, accented with an LV Circle medal. POA. Some confinement measures have been has something for you. Take the dumbbells, eased and, in most places, people have the Jump Rope Christopher or Ping Pong been encouraged to keep on exercising. Set James…they come with their Monogram The physical and psychological benefits are Eclipse canvas (handles, covers) and House huge, and they may be even increased by signature engravings. Whereas those three using uniquely designed tools. Enter LOUIS previous pieces are strongly masculine thanks VUITTON’s homewares, and specifically the to the dark grey and black colouration, the sporting range. Either you are into Beach Monogram Giant Volleyball is more playful Tennis, Volleyball, table tennis, simply with its patchwork of leather and canvas in muscle building or cardio, the luxury house summer colour tones. It comes in a stylish www.louisvuitton.com
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession Monogram Giant Volleyball; Epi Leather Table / Football Table in fuchsia; masterfully combines leather and constructed, it showcases an elegantly shaped top canvas in a patchwork covered in durable Epi leather. The hand-painted players, effect, creating a playful inspired by a 1921 LV groom illustration, are operated spin on the characteristic by sleek handles covered in cowhide leather for a Louis Vuitton Monogram. comfortable grip. POA. Showcasing eye-catching hues, this piece comes with a bag in similar colours, which also features Monogram details. POA. purple fishnet bag whose handles are made Naturally these are no ordinary football of the same branded white leather as one of tables: the players are inspired by the LOUIS the ball’s patches. And if you are indeed in the VUITTON ‘grooms’ (the team colours match mood for some more fun activities, look no that of the table), metal wares are highly further than at the Table Football tables that polished, the leather is naturally tanned offer six different versions (Damier Graphite, cowhide and hand-stitched with contrasting Caramel and White Leather, Monogram or not threads. Beautifully crafted for hours Eclipse, Cyan, Fuchsia and Pistachio). of mind relaxation. www.louisvuitton.com
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession
It is gambling time! Quite literally in fact. Following the
launch of the Blackjack and Baccara Timepieces, here
comes the Poker Watch by CHRISTOPHE CLARET, a
12-piece limited edition. Anecdotally, the ‘Poker’ option
was retrospectively the first to be conceived; however the
technology needed to turn a game that is organised on
a table into a watch was not available at the time. The
first prototype was successfully created in 2011 but it took
two further years to perfect the intricate complication.
“Devising the gearing and bringing it all together in a
mechanical movement – in other words, orchestrating a
complete 52-card game following the rules of poker – is a real
feat. In total, Poker packs in 32,768 different combinations,
i.e. 98,304 combinations for three players. The probabilities
have been calculated so that everyone has approximately
the same chances of winning”, the team explains. For
aficionados, let’s mention that this watch offers a real three-
player game of the most popular variant: Texas Hold’em.
The dial of Poker is entirely made and assembled within
Manufacture Claret and was designed to offer excellent
legibility of both the time and the Poker game. The dial is
animated, on this model, by tokens, cards and casino tip
in 3D, that is all that is found on a Texas Hold’em carpet,
for more visual realism. “Emblematic of the brand, the ruby
and black PVD-treated titanium hands – among the most
expensive to make because of the complexity of machining POKER Watch with case in black PVD-
these precious materials – are enhanced by a luminescent treated grade 5 titanium, dial in blue
PVD titanium, tokens in anticorodal
coating. The hour indexes are on the bezel so as not to colour anodized, hands in red ruby and
crowd the stage. Although the dial has an incredible 85 black PVD-treated titanium, with Super-
components, its balanced harmonious design ensures that Luminova®, crown in black PVD-treated
the players are not distracted”. grade 5 titanium, strap in black alligator,
PCK05, automatic-winding movement;
www.christopheclaret.com limited edition of 12. POA.June 2020 Notes on an Obsession
EKA MIALUCE Flex’it
Bracelet in 18K yellow
The timeless elegance of the EKA bracelets gold set with diamond
pavé. POA.
belies the technological prowess that went
into their design. One of the bestselling lines
for Italian jewellers FOPE, the EKA range rev-
olutionised what a flexible bracelet should
be, upon its launch in 2007. It indeed incor-
porates a patented concept that allows the
bracelets to effortlessly stretch thanks to mul-
tiple “tiny gold springs hidden between the
gold mesh links” (only the full diamond-paved
option is not flexible and for obvious techni-
cal reasons). It is appropriately called Flex’it
and is found in most of FOPE’s designs. This
genial invention is what sets the Italian fami-
ly-owned goldsmithing company apart. Since
it was conceived, the EKA series has grown
with new designs being released on a regu-
lar basis; it even offered a revamp of its sig-
nature rondels in 2019 and to mark FOPE’s
90th anniversary. The bracelets come in the
three standard gold colours (white, yellow
and rose) and three widths. The rondel can be
paved or in solid white gold; and for the EKA
MIALUCE – the high jewellery option of the
range – the mesh links are either partly or ful-
ly micro-paved with white diamonds (as fea-
tured). On its own or stacked, the EKA brace-
lets respectfully refer to the 60’s all the while EKA MIALUCE Flex’it
firmly grasping the modern zeitgeist. Bracelet in 18K white
gold and entirely set
www.fope.com with diamonds. POA.June 2020 Notes on an Obsession Many shows, fairs and exhibitions have naturally been cancelled due to the current covid-19 pandemic; and even though most are postponed till next year, let’s not forget that participants were still ready to present their novelties. Such is the case for designers who were planning to exhibit at the Salone del Mobile, the Italian trade fair mecca that each year sets the trends in home decorating and furnishing. So, here are our top-two picks of what could not presented in Milan but has still been released. This mini curation / review is about two creations that both make the most of whimsicality and function. Moreover, they both borrow from the natural world with a very imaginative approach. One is the mesmerising Miroir aux Carpes (Carp mirror) by Jérémy Josselin and edited by MYDRIAZ (the French company specialised in bespoke furniture and lighting solutions). For whomever has been able to visit a fish farm, you would recall how the fish swim and glide on top of each other when in a confined pond. The same vitality has been transferred into the mirror whose colour varnished and golden-plated brass frame is an Miroir aux Carpes; colour varnished and infinite chain of intertwined carps, while the glass gold-plated brass with glass. POA. has undertones of smoky bluish grey, graduating darker around the edges. Have you also noticed that the title of the mirror is a playful take on the real sub-species of carp, called carpe miroir (or mirror carp)? www.mydriaz-paris.com
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Fauteuil Forest in nautical
resin and brass with gloss
finish. POA.
The other head-turning creation is the Fauteuil
Forest (Forest Chair) designed by Marcantonio
Raimondi Malerba and edited by SCARLET
SPLENDOUR. It could be the throne of a forest
elf, but most certainly is the seating option dream
for most inner-children. It looks as if it has been
carved out of solid wood (although wood more
from a cartoon than from a real tree), some of its
branches chopped off to accommodate comfort,
yet higher arms preserved for they are crowned
by a hybrid bloom (sort of candy floss blue
cloud). SCARLET SPLENDOUR is no stranger
to theatrical mise-en-scène in their catalogue,
rightfully in line with the outrageously playful
attribute of all the furniture pieces that they
edit. They recommend using the Fauteuil Forest
in residences, hotels or commercial spaces: in
a nutshell, anywhere and everywhere, so that
we could all make our world a more enchanting
place to be.
www.scarletsplendour.comJune 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Medallions Lys, both in rose gold set
with diamonds; however one with a
side in malachite, the other in lapis
lazuli; Légende medallions. €4,500.
Here is a charming way to hold a piece of CHAUMET’s history close to
one’s chest. There are actually 29 options to do so, the 29 Légende
medallions in limited edition that were launched earlier this year in
celebration of the re-opening of 12 Place Vendôme as well as the
240th anniversary of Maison CHAUMET. The medallions come in two
sizes and are grouped in ten ‘families’, each themed according to one
of CHAUMET’s signature emblems. There is the Vendôme Column
(small medallion) that sits in the middle of the square of the same
name, birthplace of the Maison; a reference to the house’s first major
client, the J of Joséphine Bonaparte (small medallion); the natural
world that is an important source of inspiration is represented by the
fleur-de-lys motif (small and larger medallion), as well as the laurel
of Apollo (larger medallion), a symbol of triumph that comes in
three different patterns (as lace, as leaves, and as a wreath). And of
course, the diadem is also used (small and larger medallion), being
one of the most acclaimed CHAUMET piece of jewellery.
www.chaumet.comJune 2020 Notes on an Obsession Medallion Joséphine (small version) in rose gold and malachite set with one brilliant-cut emerald; Légende medallions. €3,500. In order to include a transformable element, the sides of some medallions are different. In addition, under each theme, the medallions bear the same motifs (one on each side) however in multiple colourways. As an example, there are two large Medallions Lys, one with the flower set on malachite, the other on lapis lazuli. The reverse is different, yet the same motif for each medallion: a gold butterfly set among a diamond pavé. This ample combination of sizes, patterns and colours is a jolt to the sensory system! www.chaumet.com
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Medallion Diadème
(small version) in rose
gold and sculpted
carnelian set with one Medallion Couronne de
pear-shaped ruby; Laurier (larger size) in rose
Légende medallions. gold set with brilliant-cut
€3,500. diamonds;
Légende medallions. €3,500.
www.chaumet.comJune 2020 Notes on an Obsession
What an exciting new venture at MARINA B! With
Guy Bedarida at the helm, the jewellery company is
set to branch out in a way that makes one wonder: Marina B Letter Opener and Magnifier
“why has this not happened before?” It is so befitting in Sterling silver with Marina B shape
and set with 2.83 carats of Muzo
that the jewellery house would also put its stamp on emerald cabochons; dimensions:
homewares, that the news of Bedarida having start- 16.7cm / 6.5inch. US$2,000.
ed to develop a Marina B homeware collection comes
as a relief. Let’s say that the fact that Bedarida is
currently quarantining in Bangkok (where he initial-
ly travelled to view and buy gemstones), has been
a fruitful time in terms of creative input. Among the
numerous elements of identifiable language that the
late Marina B set out to define in her jewels (name-
ly the Marina B cut – a chestnut-like motif, the use
of black gold – fierce and elegant, the adoption of
kinetics – transformability, springs, and a signature
preference for unthreaded beads so as to maintain
their integrity), all of them could be used as accents
or concepts for what the homeware line could be. Lo
and behold, the tone is set by their first output: this
luxe magnifying glass and letter opener in sterling
silver. The minimalistic design rests on clean lines
with the end of each tool being shaped as a MARINA
B chestnut cut and set with a MUZO emerald. The
aerodynamics of an aircraft fuselage is to be found
in both the magnifier and letter opener’s structure,
whilst the gemstones are to both what the Spirit of
Ecstasy is to a Rolls-Royce car.
www.marinab.comJune 2020 Notes on an Obsession
Diamond Days Ring in yellow gold
set with one 0.56-carat emerald-cut
white diamond and 0.65 carat of white
diamonds (pavé for the band and
inside the white sapphire Kaleidoscope
Shaker). POA.
A-listers, celebrities and fine jewellery lovers white diamond mirroring a ‘white Sapphire
alike have all fallen for the ravishing use of Kaleidoscope Shaker’ (an octagonal-shaped
kinetics in each of MORTITZ GLIK’s designs. gold frame containing a myriad of loose
Little gemstones float inside a sapphire white diamonds); or the counterbalancing
glass case and make for a playful attribute of a traditional important stone on one side,
that ensures that the owners will never tire versus the free-dancing spirit of a locket on the
of wearing their pieces. Now comes the star other. It also could be looked at as certainty
of the show, the Diamond Days ring, a clever versus chance, solidity versus fluidity….all the
take on the eternity band and engagement promises that a couple would share upon
ring; one that has been amped up by the engaging themselves to each other. That said,
addition of two larger components on either the Diamond Days ring could just be a fabulous
side at the top, within the simple constraint jewel, an heirloom for oneself, a show stopping
of white and gold colours. An emerald-cut ring with no ceremonial dimension.
www.moritzglik.comJune 2020 Notes on an Obsession Skull Jewelled Aviator shiny antique silver metal sunglasses, fitted with grey gradient lenses, inserted in an oversize rimless pilot construction. The lenses are fixed with studs and Swarovski crystals. The sunglasses have fine metallic temples, finished with crystal skull motifs and the Alexander McQueen signature engraved tone on tone; Spring Summer 2020. POA. Even though summer holidays may be in MCQUEEN signature; a touch of rock glam jeopardy this year, we will still be able to edge. Interestingly the brand name itself is enjoy the sun from wherever we are. Mind subtly engraved along one of the branches. you, sunshine or not, the new Jewelled Skull It is really the grinning skull that gives away Sunglasses by ALEXANDER MCQUEEN are the identity of these sunglasses. Some further set to become an instant fashion accessory. details are to be found in their construction; The oversized lenses come in two versions notably the way the lenses are mounted onto (square or pilot shape) and are tinted in a fine metal rim on the top half part only. The subtle gradations of sunset pink, slate grey lenses seem to float, an overall optical illusion or smoky green. Just the right framing of that fits well with the wider ALEXANDER one’s face to confer a mysterious, sensual MCQUEEN ethos; for each creation (across look. Of course, the little bejewelled skulls all product categories) conjures artful magic on either side is the ultimate ALEXANDER via experimental craft. www.alexandermcqueen.com
June 2020 Notes on an Obsession Skull Jewelled Square shiny antique gold metal sunglasses, fitted with pink gradient lenses, inserted in an oversize rimless pilot construction. The lenses are fixed with studs and Swarovski crystals. The sunglasses have fine metallic temples, finished with crystal skull motifs and the Alexander McQueen signature engraved tone on tone; Spring Summer 2020. POA. Skull Jewelled Square shiny antique silver metal sunglasses, fitted with green gradient lenses, inserted in an oversize rimless pilot construction. The lenses are fixed with studs and Swarovski crystals. The sunglasses have fine metallic temples, finished with crystal skull motifs and the Alexander McQueen signature engraved tone on tone; Spring Summer 2020. POA. www.alexandermcqueen.com
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