Harlow Pajamas AN EXCLUSIVE PATTERN FROM CHARM PATTERNS - SPONSORED BY B&J FABRICS
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Harlow Pajamas A N E X C LU S I V E PAT T E R N F R O M C H A R M PAT T E R N S S P O N S O R E D BY B & J FA B R I C S © 2020 Charm Patterns by Gertie Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited
Meet the Harlow Pajamas! Inspired by Old Hollywood glamour, this set will have you lounging in sumptuous style. A high-waisted elastic pant pairs with a tunic-style top. The waist sash and faux frog closures give these pjs a dose of style. Make them in a silky solid for a Jean Harlow effect or use a cute printed cotton for a beach pajama vibe! xoxo, Gertie P.S. Join our Patreon to get the sleeve expansion for this pattern! SIZE CHART The Harlow Pajamas are sized in women’s US 2–20, with separate pieces for A–C cup sizes, D–F cup sizes, and G–H cup sizes. Use the chart below to pick your size. The high bust measurement should be taken above your breasts and the full bust measurement should be taken at the fullest part of your bustline. Take the hip measurement at the widest part of your hips. S I Z E C H A RT : Separate pattern pieces are included for A–H cup sizes. F I T N OT E S : the Harlow Pajamas are designed to have an easy fit, with up to 10 inches (in) of ease in the bust and 10 in of ease in the hips. The waist is customizable with the length of elastic you cut. 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 High 29 in 31 in 33 in 35 in 37 in 39 in 41 in 43 in 45 in 47 in Bust 73.7 cm 78.7 cm 83.8 cm 88.9 cm 94 cm 99 cm 104.1 cm 109.2 cm 114.3 cm 119.4 cm Bust 30.5 in 32.5 in 34.5 in 36.5 in 38.5 in 40.5 in 42.5 in 44.5 in 46.5 in 48.5 in A cup 77.5 cm 82.5 cm 87.6 cm 92.7 cm 97.8 cm 102.9 cm 107.9 cm 113 cm 118.1 cm 123.1 cm Bust 31 in 33 in 35 in 37 in 39 in 41 in 43 in 45 in 47 in 49 in B/C cup 78.7 cm 83.8 cm 88.9 cm 94 cm 99 cm 104.1 cm 109.2 cm 114.3 cm 119.4 cm 124.5 cm M AT E R I A L S & N OT I O N S Bust 32 in 34 in 36 in 38 in 40 in 42 in 44 in 46 in 48 in 50 in • Fabric for top, bottoms, and sash D/DD cup 81.3 cm 86.4 cm 91.4 cm 96.5 cm 101.6 cm 106.7 cm 111.8 cm 116.8 cm 121.9 cm 127 cm 33 in 35 in 37 in 39 in 41 in 43 in 45 in 47 in 49 in 51 in • 2 Frog closures Bust F/G cup 83.8 cm 88.9 cm 94 cm 99 cm 104.1 cm 109.2 cm 114.3 cm 119.4 cm 124.5 cm 129.5 cm • 1½ yd (1.2 m) 1-inch-wide 34 in 36 in 38 in 40 in 42 in 44 in 46 in 48 in 50 in 52 in Bust elastic H cup 86.4 cm 91.4 cm 96.5 cm 101.6 cm 106.7 cm 111.8 cm 116.8 cm 121.9 cm 127 cm 132 cm 24 in 26 in 28 in 30 in 32 in 34 in 36 in 38 in 40 in 42 in • Thread to match your fabrics and Waist 61 cm 66 cm 71.1 cm 76.2 cm 81.3 cm 86.4 cm 91.4 cm 96.5 cm 101.6 cm 106.7 cm frog closures 36 in 38 in 40 in 42 in 44 in 46 in 48 in 50 in 52 in 54 in Hips 91.4 cm 96.5 cm 101.6 cm 106.7 cm 111.8 cm 116.8 cm 121.9 cm 127 cm 132 cm 137.1 cm FA B R I C N OT E S Use one or two fabrics for the top, sash, and bottom. Fabrics with a soft or fluid drape such as cotton lawn, rayon challis or crepe, or silk charmeuse for the ultimate luxury. © 2020 Charm Patterns by Gertie | Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited H A R L O W P A J A M A S | 2
REQUIRED YARDAGE & CUTTING LAYOUTS Note: All pattern pieces are shown in a “without nap” layout. You may need additional yardage for directional prints, stripes, plaids, and other prints that need to be matched across seamlines. Pajama Top (1, 2) PAT T E R N P I E C E S Sizes 2-10 Sizes 12-20 1. Top Front 1¾ yd 2 yd 45 in Cut 1 on fold 1 2 1.6 m 1.8 m 1 1 yd 1⅞ yd 2 2. Top Back 7 60 in 0.9 m 1.7 m Cut 1 on fold FOLD 45 in, all sizes FOLD 3. Neckline Binding 3 Cut 1 on bias 1 4. Pants Front Cut 2 5. Pants Back 2 1 Cut 2 4 5 2 6. Sash FOLD FOLD 60 in, sizes 2-10 60 in, sizes 12-20 Cut 2 on fold 7. Belt Loop Cut 2 6 Pants, Sash, 6 7 and Belt Loop (4, 5, 6, 7) 6 Sizes 2-10 Sizes 12-20 3 yd 45 in See below 5 6 2.7 m 7 6 2¾ yd 3 yd 60 in 2.5 m 2.7 m 5 N OT E : The sash takes quite a bit of additional fabric in the size 4 12-20 layouts, so we have separated FOLD it from the pants in those layouts below. This way, you can choose to make only the pants and use 45 in, sizes 2-10 less yardage. (For sizes 2-10: if you 4 don't wish to make the sash, you FOLD can simply omit it from the layouts above and the yardage will remain 60 in, all sizes the same.) Pants (4, 5) Sash, and Belt Loop (6, 7) Sizes 12-20 Sizes 12-20 Neckline 3 yd 2 yd 45 in 2.7 m 45 in 1.8 m Binding (3) All Sizes 6 45 in ⅝ yd 6 60 in 0.6 m 5 7 3 4 FOLD FOLD 45 in, sizes 12-20 45 in, sizes 12-20 © 2020 Charm Patterns by Gertie | Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited H A R L O W P A J A M A S | 3
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS 5. Measure the elastic needed: wrap elastic around your natural waist (the smallest part of your torso or NOTE: 5/8-inch (in) (1.5 cm) seam allowances are where you crease when bending to the side) so that it is included on all pattern pieces, except where otherwise just snug but still comfortable. Mark the length needed, noted. adding 1 in (2.5 cm) to the circumference for the overlap, and cut. BEFORE SEWING Transferring marks: Use dressmaker’s tracing paper and 6. Using a bodkin or safety pin attached to one end a tracing wheel to transfer all pattern markings to the of the elastic, thread the elastic through the casing. It’s wrong side (WS) of your fabric. Mark pattern notches, helpful to pin the free end of the elastic to the fabric so dart legs, and pleat marks by snipping into the seam it doesn’t slip inside the casing. Overlap the ends of the allowance with the tip of your scissors. elastic by 1 in (2.5 cm) and pin. Zigzag stitch in a square around the overlapped section, pivoting at the corners. Seam finishing: If finishing seams with a serger, serge Tuck the elastic inside the casing and evenly distribute the following seam allowances (without trimming the the gathers around the waist. Stitch the waist casing’s edges) before starting construction: opening closed. • All vertical edges of the pants legs 7. Hem the pants. To create a ¼-in (6 mm) double • Shoulder edges of the top front and back hem, try the pants on to determine the desired length. • Vertical edges of the top back Add ½ in (1.3 cm) for hem allowance and cut to the determined length. Sew a guide stitch ¼ in from the If you don’t have a serger, you can choose another finish raw edge. Turn the raw edge to the WS of the pants and after sewing the seams, such as overcast-stitching or press. Turn to the WS ¼ in again and press. Edgestitch pinking the seam allowances. along the top fold. PA N T S TOP 1. Assemble the pants legs: pin Pants Front (4) to 1. Sew the bust darts: on the Top Front (1) match the Pants Back (5), right sides (RS) together, matching dart legs, RS together, then stitch from the dart base to notches on the outseam and inseam. Stitch the inseam the dart point. Backstitch at the beginning but not at the and outseam, backstitching at the beginning and end. end, leaving a few inches of thread at the point. Tie off Press seam allowances open. Repeat for the opposite leg. the thread and trim. Press the dart toward the waist. 2. Sew the crotch curve: pin pants legs RS together 2. Create the inverted box pleat: on the Top Front’s along the crotch, making sure to match the pairs of back RS, fold along each pleat marking and align it to center notches, front notches, and inseam seamlines to each front, working from the RS of the top. Pin. Baste along other. Stitch the crotch seam from one waist edge to the the neckline to secure the pleats. opposite waist edge, making sure that the inseam seam allowances are stitched flat and open. Finish the crotch 3. If serging, now you can easily serge the vertical seam seam allowances as one, either by serging or pinking. allowances of the Top Front without having to maneuver Press the crotch seam allowances to one side. around the dart bases. 3. Form the waist casing: sew a guide stitch ¼ in 4. Sew shoulder seams: place Top Front RS together (6 mm) from the waist edge. Make sure seam allowances with Top Back (2) and pin at the shoulder seams. Stitch are stitched flat and open. Turn the waist edge to the WS the shoulder seams, backstitching at beginning and end. along the guide stitching and press. Turn the waist to WS Press the seam allowances open. again by 1¼ in (3 cm) to form the waist casing. Press. 5. Sew the neckline binding: align the Neckline Binding 4. Sew the waist casing: edgestitch along the bottom (3) bias strip’s short ends, RS together, and stitch to fold of the waist casing to secure it, leaving about 2 in form a ring. Pin one edge of the bias ring around the top (5 cm) open at the center back to thread the elastic. neckline, RS together, aligning the bias ring’s seamline © 2020 Charm Patterns by Gertie | Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited H A R L O W P A J A M A S | 4
to the top’s center back. Distribute any excess ease in the 11. Sew the belt loops to the top: pin folded ends of neckline to match the bias ring. Stitch ¼ in (6 mm) from belt loop at top and bottom belt loop placement marks, the raw edge around the neckline, easing the two layers centered on side seam. Bartack the belt loop ends in together as necessary. place (if your machine doesn’t have a bartack stitch setting, use a very short and narrow zigzag stitch). Trim 6. Press the binding up over the seam allowances. Turn the loop’s excess. the binding’s edge to WS to enclose the seam allowances and press. From the WS, turn under the binding’s raw SASH edge to just cover the seamline, press, and pin. From the 1. Pin Sash (6) pieces RS together. Stitch around long RS, stitch in the ditch of the binding’s seamline to finish, edges and short ends, pivoting at corners and leaving catching the binding’s fold on the WS. an opening about 3 in (7.6 cm) long at center back. 7. Sew the side seams: pin the Top Front and Top Back Backstitch at the beginning and end. Trim the seam RS together, aligning the circle markings for the armhole allowances to about half and trim diagonally across the openings. Stitch side seams from the hem to the armhole corners to eliminate bulk. markings, backstitching at beginning and end. Press 2. Finish the sash: turn the sash RS out using a turning seam allowances open. tool, if possible, making sure corners are nice and sharp. 8. Finish the armholes: fold under the armhole opening Press flat, making sure the opening’s seam allowances seam allowances, press, and pin. Topstitch ½ in (1.3 cm) are pressed to the inside. Use a slipstitch or a machine from the fold. Begin by backstitching at the shoulder edgestitch to close the opening. seam then sew to about ½ in past the underarm seamline. Pivot, stitch across the seam allowances, pivot FROGS (OPTIONAL) again, and stitch up the other side of the armhole to the 1. Position decorative frog closure about ¼ in (6 mm) shoulder seam. below neckline binding seam at center front, centered over the box pleat. Pin each half in place. If desired, 9. Create a narrow doubled hem: sew a guide stitch ¼ place a second frog closure below the first, spaced about in (6 mm) from the hem’s raw edge, press the raw edge ¼ in apart. to the WS along the guide stitching, then press to the WS again by ¼ in. Edgestitch the top fold to secure the 2. Stitch frogs in place by hand using thread to match hem. the frogs and a fell stitch, securing just the outer edge of the frog to the fabric. 10. Sew the Belt Loops: fold Belt Loop (7) strip WS together lengthwise and press to crease. Open the strip, Enjoy your glamorous and luxuriously comfy Harlow then fold under each raw edge to meet the center crease; Pajamas! press. Fold again along the center crease and press. Edgestitch the folded long edges together. Press under the short ends by ½ in (1.3 cm). PAT T E R N P I E C E LO C AT I O N G U I D E Here is a list to help you locate the expansion pattern pieces on the letter-size tiled pages and A0 pattern sheets. The tiled pieces and A0 sheets are included as separate pdf files as part of this digital pattern. PC# Piece Name Tiled A0 PC# Piece Name Tiled A0 1 Top Front, A-C 1-10 4 4 Pant Front 41-52, 54-56, 58-60 2-3 1 Top Front, D-F 11-20 4 5 Pant Back 58-60, 62-64, 66-68, 3-4 1 Top Front, G-H 21-30 1 69-77 2 Top Back 31-40 1 6 Sash 53, 57, 61, 65 3 3 Neckline Binding 11-15 2 7 Belt Loop 1 2 © 2020 Charm Patterns by Gertie | Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited H A R L O W P A J A M A S | 5
H OW T O U S E T H I S MORE FROM GERTIE PAT T E R N The pattern pieces are tiled so you can print them on Letter (8½” x 11”) or A4 size paper. You can also send the A0 pattern sheet PDF to a local or online printer (like www.pdfplotting. com) to print on large sheets (36” x 48” for U.S. or AO for international). This pattern includes size layers. To get the best results, open either the Tiled or A0 pattern pieces PDF in Acrobat Reader. Open the Layers Palette (View>Show/ Hide>Navigation Panes>Layers) and hide all of the layer(s) except for the ones you want to print by clicking on the eye icon. The All Sizes layer has general pattern information and will always print. Purchase more patterns at charmpatterns.com. WORKING WITH THE TILED PIECES Go to File>Print and change the page range to the pages you need for the pieces you’ve chosen (see Pattern Pieces Printing Index). Make sure the Page Sizing settings to 100% or Actual Size. Test this after printing by measuring the 1” test box on the first page of the bodice pattern pieces. Cut apart any pattern pieces that share a page by cutting on the gray long dashed lines. Then fold back the page margins on each page as directed. Tape the pages together, butting up the folded page edges with the gray margin lines, matching up the letters in gray boxes. © 2020 Charm Patterns by Gertie | Distribution and Commercial Use Prohibited H A R L O W P A J A M A S | 6
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