GUCCI THE KERING AWARDS FOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION 2019 - Centre for ...
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GUCCI THE KERING AWARDS FOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION 2019
“GUCCI REPRESENTS
INNOVATION AT KERING”
— ROSSELLA RAVAGLI, GUCCI
“WHAT WE CAN INDIVIDUALLY CREATE IS
NOT AS GREAT AS WHAT WE CAN ACHIEVE
TOGETHER. ”
— DILYS WILLIAMS, CSF
BOTH KERING AND LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION RECOGNISE SUSTAINABILITY AS THE GREATEST CREATIVE CHALLENGE AND IMPERATIVE OF OUR TIME
4
The Kering Award is an opportunity for final year BA and MA students at LCF to engage INTRODUCTION
with business and design leaders, and to be offered insight into the Gucci brand.
part in two phases: an immersion in the
The Kering Award has been developed imagination with the goal of shaping
briefs (30 students, Feb-March 2018) and
at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at a better future through fashion. This
a mentoring programme (10 finalists,
the London College of Fashion and is partnership offers an unparalleled
April-July 2018).
part of a five-year partnership to support opportunity to identify and honour
sustainable design and viable innovation work that shows imagination, creative
The Kering Award will be granted to
in the fashion industry. excellence and sustainable innovation.
work which demonstrates exceptional
innovation and rigour in the fields of
Through our partnership, we bring Applications from LCF students will be
fashion and sustainability applied to
together the knowledge and expertise accepted up to 08 Feb 2019. From there,
business, design and communication.
of academia and industry to empower selected students will be invited to take
There will be two prizes of €10,000, and
two paid internships with the brand for
the winning students.
5 PARTNERS KERING: REDEFINING LUXURY & SUSTAINABILITY A global Luxury group, Kering manages the development of a series of renowned Houses in Fashion, Leather Goods, Jewelry and Watches: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo, Qeelin, Ulysse Nardin, Girard- Perregaux, as well as Kering Eyewear. By ‘empowering imagination’ in the fullest sense, Kering encourages its brands to reach their potential, in the most sustainable manner. Present in more than 120 countries, in 2017 Kering had nearly 29,000 employees and restated revenue of €10.816 billion. “WE WILL LOOK TO THE NEXT GENERATION, TO YOU, FOR NEW, INSPIRED IDEAS AND SOLUTIONS TO EMBED SUSTAINABILITY IN OUR PRODUCTS AND THROUGHOUT OUR SUPPLY CHAINS.” — François-Henri Pinault, CEO
6 PARTNERS CENTRE FOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION: 10 YEARS OF GLOBAL CHANGE-MAKING CSF is a world-renowned research centre, made up of a community of researchers, designers, makers, educators, and communicators. Our work has placed sustainability at the centre of the global fashion agenda. CSF has ten years experience of nurturing new talent through sustainable business and sustainable design support programmes. Over 100 London based designers have benefitted from working with CSF, including Christopher Raeburn and Michelle Lowe Holder. “FASHION IS A SOCIAL PROCESS BETWEEN PEOPLE WITH NATURE THAT IS MEDIATED THROUGH THE CREATING, DISTRIBUTING, WEARING AND CARING OF CLOTHES THAT REPRESENT OUR IDENTITIES, OUR SAFETY AND OUR DELIGHT IN THE WORLD. ” — Professor Dilys Williams, Director
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“This brief asks you to consider how your work can capture and enhance the spirit of ABOUT GUCCI
possibility that Gucci embodies. We invite you to join us in this challenge, using your
skills and creativity to contribute to a new role for this most iconic of brands – as a
beacon for sustainability in fashion.”
In the 1940s when material shortages For this reason, in 2018 Gucci Equilibrium progress in ensuring that every decision they
threatened to close the business, Gucci found was launched – the dedicated portal where make is the right one on behalf of people
new ways to define luxury. Resourcefulness they state their goals and achievements. and the planet.
and lateral thinking led to the Gucci of today. This is the heart of Gucci’s mission to
bring positive change in order to secure As a company, Gucci strives to manage the
Gucci’s sustainability strategy is founded on our collective future. It’s a balance of the planet’s finite resources, and build a culture
a Culture of Purpose, built on three main aesthetics of the things they produce with the of respect. At the same time, their people are
pillars: People, Environment, New Models. A ethics in which they believe, and a program also free to innovate, create, and grow.
sense of purpose defines and articulates the & platform designed to connect people,
values that make them who they are. Gucci planet and purpose. These are critical times when we can all
knows that their brand and their people are play our part in helping to deliver on the
committed agents of social & environmental Throughout Gucci Equilibrium, the company UN Global Goals and the Paris Climate
change, and they take that seriously. can constantly update stakeholders on their Agreement. The only way to do that is by
bringing people together, sharing ideas,
innovation and experiences.
8
1. 2. BRIEFS: DESIGN FOCUS
ENVIRONMENT: NEW MODELS:
A WORLD WITHOUT FUR GUCCI FOR THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY
These briefs are aimed at design and technology
CONTEXT CONTEXT
students, however anyone can respond to them.
On October 2017, Gucci made headlines when Gucci-Up is a circular economy initiative within
Your challenge is to use your design skills and
Marco Bizzarri, President and CEO, announced Gucci Equilibrium focused on the upcycling of
thinking, craft and creativity to present new and
that they would no longer source animal fur in waste leather and textiles generated during the
exciting modes of sustainability.
their products. Attitudes have changed towards fur production process. The initiative also partners
and as a material it no longer reflects the values with social cooperatives in Italy working with
they hold. Gucci is now faced with the challenge marginalised groups, to train and re-integrate
of ensuring that any fur alternative materials used people back into their communities.
are environmentally sustainable.
CHALLENGE
CHALLENGE The challenge is to identify and assess all pre-
This challenge calls for the exploration of consumer waste streams, and create systems
fur alternative materials with a minimized to recover, repair, reprocess, reuse and resell
environmental footprint. Can we change cultures materials and products. How can you extend
and perceptions around fur and faux fur? Is it product lifetimes, or design waste out entirely with
possible to encourage a wider luxury move to zero waste supply chains?
alternatives, and potentially make a global shift
away from these materials altogether? In relation to this overarching challenge, we are
particularly interested in:
In relation to this overarching challenge, we are —— Design models that avoid waste, designing it
particularly interested in: out from the start
— — An exploration of fur alternatives with a —— Business models for repair, resale, recycling
minimized environmental footprint that can truly reflect the value & craft of
— — Future models: imagining a world without fur fashion
—— Partnership models for collaborative circular
textiles systems – looking at pre and/or post-
consumer waste
9
1. 2. BRIEFS:
PEOPLE / ENVIRONMENT / NEW MODELS: PEOPLE / NEW MODELS:
COMMUNICATING EQUILIBRIUM PROVENANCE STORIES
COMMUNICATION FOCUS
These briefs are aimed at communications and
CONTEXT CONTEXT
media students, however anyone can respond to
Gucci Equilibrium is the dedicated portal where their Gucci is committed to championing craftsmanship
them. Your challenge is to use your communication
sustainability goals and achievements are stated. and design excellence, sharing stories behind the
skills – from journalism and public relations to
Equilibrium is a balance of the aesthetics of the brand on their website. As consumers increasingly
photography, creative direction, illustration or
things produced with the ethics in which they believe. ask about the provenance of the products that they
technical effects – to present a new and exciting
Equilibrium is also a program and platform designed to buy, there is a need to find ways to enhance and
view of sustainability.
connect people, planet and purpose. communicate the traceability of our supply chains.
CHALLENGE CHALLENGE
Sustainability-focused messages (especially related to The challenge is to build stories around materials,
the social or environmental impacts of products) can craftsmanship, and global production chains.
be seen to conflict with the traditional essence of luxury How can you effectively communicate these with
and consumers’ expectations. customers before and at the point of sale? How
The challenge asks – is it possible to transform this can you share engaging stories about the journeys
mindset? How can you create a smart, effective of products from concept to shop floor with our
way of conveying these messages? How can you customers?
change sustainability-related messages into a value
proposition? In relation to this overarching challenge, we are
particularly interested in:
In relation to this overarching challenge, we are —— Exploring solutions to track and collate
particularly interested in: provenance stories
—— Communications strategies for varied platforms – —— Creating engaging solutions for communicating
creating a compelling sustainability narrative stories with customers
—— Social media campaigns to amplify the Equilibrium
message and drive traffic to the website
—— Advertising campaigns (digital / print) to increase
awareness of and engagement with Gucci
Equilibrium
10
3. BRIEFS:
ENVIRONMENT / NEW MODELS:
A CONSUMER-FACING EP&L
COMMUNICATION FOCUS
CONTEXT
All of Kering Group’s brands supply chain impacts are now
accounted for by an EP&L (Environmental Profit & Loss account). An
Environmental Profit & Loss account allows a company to measure
in monetary value the costs and benefits it generates for the
environment, and in turn to make more sustainable business decisions.
To measure the true environmental footprint carbon emissions, water
use, water pollution, land use, air pollution and waste are examined.
To really understand the impacts, the following elements are
analysed throughout the value chain: Raw materials / Processing /
Manufacturing / Assembly / Operations / Retail.
CHALLENGE
As consumers become increasingly engaged with the topic of
sustainability, they are asking more questions and demanding more
from brands. This challenge is to communicate EP&L calculations with
customers, allowing them to make fully informed purchasing decisions
and ensuring that results & reasoning can be easily understood.
In relation to this overarching challenge, we are particularly
interested in:
—— Exploring new ways of sharing EP&L data for customers to
calculate and compare options on Gucci products – with the
potential development of a tool to enable product specific
calculations before purchase.
—— Extending the existing EP&L app or calculator across the Gucci
digital customer experience and across Gucci sites & apps.11
1. 2. BRIEFS:
PEOPLE: GENDER EQUALITY, PEOPLE / NEW MODELS:
DIVERSITY & INCLUSION ENGAGING THE POPULATION
BUSINESS FOCUS
These briefs are aimed at business students, however
CONTEXT CONTEXT
anyone can respond to them. Your challenge is to use
At Gucci, a key challenge is working to reach goals relating Gucci wants to empower all of its employees to become
your creative skills – from marketing, management,
to gender equality, diversity and inclusion. The business has committed citizens of the world, leveraging on the
entrepreneurship and innovation to merchandising,
an opportunity to understand and incorporate the views concept of grassroot activism, and thereby enabling
retail, psychology or strategy – to present a new and
and values of new generations to address the challenges them to contribute to making the world a better place.
exciting take on sustainability.
relating to gender equality, diversity and inclusion. Gucci In 2020 Gucci plans to celebrate the 10th anniversary
also has the opportunity to observe, study and anticipate of its sustainability plan – meaning that all Gucci
expectations of their customers and audience about employees should be fully immersed with the strategy,
sustainability. with sustainability understanding and thinking ingrained
in everyday business practice, in an empowered, strong
CHALLENGE action-oriented and inclusive corporate culture.
This challenge explores issues of gender equality, diversity
and inclusion within the fashion industry in an open- CHALLENGE
minded, curious, innovative and collaborative manner. How This challenge asks you to explore new ways of engaging
can you imagine new solutions, discover connections or find Gucci employees with the Gucci Equilibrium platform.
inspiration from other business sectors? There is also potential to extend it to the wider customer
population in the future, ingraining Gucci Equilibrium across
In relation to this overarching challenge, we are particularly every business activity and customer touch point.
interested in:
—— Strategies to extend the reach of Gucci to broader In relation to this overarching challenge, we are particularly
demographics to increase the diversity of the workforce interested in:
—— Exploring and developing employee engagement, —— Developing engaging and up to date content related to
networking and support initiatives to provide an Gucci’s CSR strategy
inclusive and supportive working environment —— Providing learning opportunities through digital training
—— Exploring and developing physical workplace initiatives – with potential relevance to both employees and
to provide a safe & inclusive working environment customers.CAN YOU OFFER IDEAS, CONCEPTS AND PROTOTYPES
THAT RESPOND TO GUCCI’S SPIRIT OF POSSIBILITY IN A
WAY THAT IS RELEVANT AND INSPIRATIONAL FOR THE NEXT
HUNDRED YEARS?
1213
WHO CAN APPLY?
THE KERING AWARDS ARE OPEN TO:
—— All current final year BA students at
London College of Fashion, across
design, business and media schools.
—— All current Masters students at
London College of Fashion, across
design, business and media schools.
—— You can apply as an individual or in
teams of up to two people.
—— You can apply for more than one
brief, from any of the categories.
HOW WILL YOU BENEFIT?
—— Explore and develop your work
with additional mentoring from the
brand, Kering and CSF.
—— Unrivalled insight into the workings
of global enterprise Kering and
expert sustainability research.
—— Be selected for your exemplary work
and considered for a cash award of
€10,000.
—— Be offered a paid placement for up
to three months with Gucci.14 TIMELINE Deadline for applications: 08 Feb 2019 Lab Day 30 students will be selected to take part in a one-day workshop to understand more deeply the context of the brief, sustainability thinking & brand identity 27 Feb 2019 at LCF Interim Presentations 30 students will deliver to a selection panel from CSF, Gucci and Kering 27 March 2019 at Kering Mentoring Programme 10 students selected April-July 2019 Final presentations at Kering HQ 17 July 2019
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GUIDANCE NOTES
For the application stage, we are looking
for you to demonstrate:
—— an initial response to the brief
—— an understanding of the brief
—— an introductory understanding of
sustainability thinking and practice
—— evidence of research scope & depth
For the interim and final presentations,
we will be looking for:
—— an ability to engage with, analyse,
research and respond to the
specific sustainability challenge/
opportunities of the brand
—— an ability to conceive and develop
original ideas
—— engagement in critical thinking to
apply concept to feasible outcome
—— a holistic viewpoint on the fashion
industry, its critical dimensions in
ecological, economic, cultural and
social terms
—— creative ways to illuminate and
communicate through a variety
of appropriate visual and verbal
mediums, both digital and physical16
HOW TO APPLY
Register to take part at the Workflow site:
In order to apply for the Kering Award
2019, you will need to create your own
Workflow page and submit it by 08 Feb
2019. You may submit an application
for more than one brief from any of the
categories.
Please include the following in your page:
—— personal profile (150 words)
—— your concept (250 words)
—— what is your approach to
sustainability in your practice? (200
words)
—— visual, film or written rationale (2 min
video, 8 slides/images, or 500 words)
Remember to demonstrate:
—— an initial response to the brief
—— an understanding of the brand
—— an introductory understanding of
sustainability thinking and practice
—— evidence research scope and depth17
If you haven’t used Workflow before, here are some quick directions to get you started HOW TO CREATE YOUR
on building your page for submission.
APPLICATION
Access Workflow at http://workflow.arts.ac.uk/ and To create a page, click on the Portfolio menu at the You will find much more detailed information on
log in using your UAL username and password. top and then Pages and Collections. Click on ‘Add’ how to put your page together by following the
and then ‘Page’. Support link at the bottom of any Workflow page.
On the page that loads, enter the title for your
page and click the “Save” button at the bottom.
You can now begin to add content to your page
by dragging items from the palette of available
items on the left to the space on the right. Once
you have your page as you want it and you are
ready to submit, when you are viewing your page
that you want to submit, at the bottom of the page
select “The Kering Award 2019” in the dropdown
and click “Submit”.cli
You can submit an application for more than one
brief, and can apply for any of the briefs from
Design, Communication or Business regardless of
what course you are on.
You will also need to sign a Student Agreement
that includes confidentiality and intellectual
property clauses. This will be available on
Workflow and needs to be uploaded to Moodle to
make your application valid.18
What does ‘sustainability’ mean to Gucci? How does Gucci incorporate sustainability
into its business models?
GUCCI: ADDITIONAL
“We are committed to a Culture of Purpose. INFORMATION I.
A sense of purpose defines and articulates “Equilibrium means that we are committed
the values that make us who we are. We to bringing the very best quality to our
work putting positive environmental and customers, while aiming for a positive
social impact at the very heart of the brand environmental and social impact.
How does Gucci embed sustainability in the
in order to secure our collective future. We Developing our sustainability strategy
design process of their luxury products?
strive to operate in a transparent, ethical based on the three pillars, we are able to
manner and we encourage our supply chain incorporate sustainability into our business
“We are constantly working to discover
to adopt responsible business practices. decisions. We search out sustainable
more sustainable materials in order to
A Culture of Purpose means that we can materials, find the least invasive processes,
develop products that have a lower impact
answer the expectations of our customers, dream up innovative solutions and,
on the environment. In line with Kering’s
our employees, our suppliers and everyone importantly, look after the people who help
sustainability strategy, we have established
in the wider Gucci family. But, in order to a us to achieve all this. A dedicated CSR team
targets to ensure that 95% of our raw
real purpose, you need to demonstrate that ensures the coordination and monitoring of
materials are traceable to source by 2018,
you have integrity. Integrity is what we value all environmental and social projects.”
rising to 100% by 2025. Our own Creative
most at Gucci.”
and Product Development Departments
works with our recommended list of
materials and manufacturing processes as
well as an eco-dictionary and a list of the
most innovative, renewable materials.”19
What are Gucci’s top three sustainability
challenges?
business. The challenge of the future will be to
continue to be more and more an example of
GUCCI: ADDITIONAL
transparency, communicating our achievements INFORMATION II.
—— Working to reach goals related to gender and concrete results, being a stimulus also for
equality, diversity and inclusion; other brands in the luxury sector.”
—— Working to discover more sustainable raw
materials and processes; How could you best take advantage of a fresh
—— To implement new reliable and effective influx of creativity to tackle those challenges?
What are Gucci’s top three sustainability
ways to measure and communicate our
opportunities?
positive social and environmental impacts. —— To understand and incorporate the views
and values of new generations to address
—— To attract a new generation of talented
Do those challenges differ across the challenges of diversity and inclusion
artisans aware of the importance of
Communications and CSR? If so, how? challenges
sustainability
—— To have the curiosity to imagine new
—— To enhance a circular economy system
“We believe that communications and CSR solutions, to discover connections and look
—— To foster inclusion and diversity culture
should be approached together to come to at other business sectors
the best holistic resolution. In recent years, we —— To have the capacity of observing,
What do you need to take advantage of those
have decided to communicate in a transparent studying and anticipating expectations
opportunities?
manner our commitment to sustainability, of our customers and audience about
because it is now an integral part of our sustainability.
—— To attract a new generation of talented
artisans aware of the importance of
sustainability: to reimagine craftsmanship,
integrating sustainable innovation
—— To enhance a circular economy system: to
find new opportunities for collaboration
with our supply chain
—— To foster inclusion and diversity culture: to
find new ways to inspire and engage the
population – both customers and internally
at GucciSEE THE CENTRE FOR
SUSTAINABLE FASHION
WEBSITE FOR REGULAR
UPDATES ON ALL KERING
OPPORTUNITIES
csfxkering@arts.ac.uk
sustainable-fashion.com
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