GLOBAL ADVISOR ON FASHION: CONSUMER VIEWS ON THE SECOND-HAND MARKET AND SUSTAINABILITY - Ipsos
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GLOBAL ADVISOR ON FASHION: CONSUMER VIEWS ON THE SECOND-HAND MARKET AND SUSTAINABILITY Françoise Hernaez & Maxime Gicquel, Luxury Market Experts 12 March, 2020
FASHION:
BOOM IN THE SECOND-HAND MARKET
"True luxury is what can be repaired," said the former CEO of Hermès, Jean-Louis Dumas. Giving a
second life to someone else’s unwanted clothes or accessories is an approach that is gaining ground
among the most affluent consumers and fashion followers. Latest figures from our World Luxury
Tracking study on second-hand product purchases show a considerable rise of +11 points in the US
and +9 points in Europe between 2017 and 2019.
The phenomenon is spreading beyond the Affluents and is now an increasingly common practice in the
fashion world. Recent data from our 28-country Global Advisor survey finds that 41% of respondents
have already purchased second-hand fashion items, accessories or shoes.
Of course, the motivations need to be balanced between economic choices in countries with strong
constraints on purchasing power and style-related compromises with the development of a very high-
end second-hand market as a consequence. This is notably the case in the US, with the "consignment
store" offering the experience of the pleasure of buying, the pleasure of accessing historical - some
would say iconic - items and, most of the time, at reduced prices compared to what you could find in
regular stores today. It is important to remember that luxury goods do not depreciate, and sometimes
their value even increases over time. Some luxury brands have understood this, such as the Swiss
backpack brand Freitag, whose "upcycling chic" concept works very well, or Maison Martin Margiela,
which has just presented its SS20 upcycling collection under the direction of John Galliano.
Photo by Clem Onojeghuo on Unsplash
2 ‒ © Ipsos | Global Advisor on Fashion
GLOBALLY, 4 IN 10 HAVE PURCHASED FASHION APPAREL, SHOES OR
ACCESSORIES FROM SECOND-HAND/CONSIGNMENT RETAILERS
Q. How often do you purchase fashion apparel, shoes and accessories from second-hand/
consignment shops and websites/apps? (% often or sometimes)
Canada 41%
Australia 40%
Peru 62% South Africa 40%
Chile South Korea 38%
57%
Hungary 38%
Saudi Arabia 55%
Great Britain 37%
Mexico 55% Japan 36%
France 36%
Argentina 53%
Belgium 35%
Poland 51% Germany 34%
Brazil 49% Netherlands 33%
Russia 30%
India 47%
Sweden 30%
Global
United States 46% Spain 29%
average:
Italy 28%
Malaysia 43%
41% Turkey 27%
3 ‒ © Ipsos | Global Advisor on Fashion
China 22%
HALF OF CONSUMERS IN CHINA AND THE NETHERLANDS HAVE NEVER
PURCHASED SECOND-HAND FASHION APPAREL
Q. How often do you purchase fashion apparel, shoes and accessories from second-hand/
consignment shops and websites/apps? (% never)
Canada 32%
China 51%
South Africa 31%
Netherlands 48%
United States 30%
Russia 46%
India 29%
Italy 45% South Korea 27%
France 42% Japan 26%
Saudi Arabia 23%
Turkey 42%
Argentina 22%
Spain 41%
Brazil 21%
Sweden 40%
Poland 21%
Germany 39% Mexico 19%
Global
Great Britain 38% Malaysia 19%
average:
Belgium 36% Chile 18%
Australia 33%
32% Peru 16%
4 ‒ © Ipsos | Global Advisor on Fashion Hungary 16%
SPAIN IS WHERE CONSUMERS ARE MOST OPEN TO SECOND-HAND
FASHION; THE NETHERLANDS WHERE THEY ARE MOST AVERSE TO IT
Q How often do you purchase fashion apparel, shoes and accessories from second-hand/
consignment shops and websites/apps?
Never and I would not
Never, but I could
Netherlands 29%
Spain 31%
China 24% China 27%
Great Britain 24%
Russia 27%
Turkey 23%
Never but I could Never and I would not Italy 26%
Sweden 22%
France 20% France 22%
South Africa 20%
Germany 21%
Netherlands 19%
Global Global Belgium 21%
Russia 19%
average: average:
Italy 19% Turkey 19%
the US 19%
17% 15% Japan 19%
Germany 18%
Sweden 18%
Australia 18%
South Korea 18% India 16%
5 ‒ © Ipsos | Global Advisor on Fashion
FASHION
AN ETHICAL TURNING POINT
When it comes to ethical commitment, fashion brands still have a lot of work to do to gain
credibility with the general public. Despite new agendas such as the Fashion Pact*, there is still a
long way to go for those luxury brands that have just started making small steps towards a cleaner
way of making tomorrow’s fashion. Indeed, a large majority (63%) of Global Advisor respondents
consider that luxury brands are no more environmentally friendly than other brands. Those in
European countries and the US felt most strongly about this, while the Middle East, China and
India were more lenient.
For a long time, niche brands have set an example in that area. In 2011, Rombaut began using
vegetal fibres to make sneakers that are 100% vegan. In 2015, Neith Nyer started setting the tone
with an entirely vegan collection. And, as of today, numerous formerly under the radar labels such
as Nanushka, Andrea Crews and Jill Milan have taken sustainability to a new level in fashion.
Bigger players in the industry are now expected to do the same, but the challenges are complex
given their scale. What is now expected from them is not solely doing more for a cleaner
production but also involving more transparency in their communication on the matter. Fashion
companies will have to take this issue seriously or else face the risk of being accused of
unresponsiveness, or worst, green washing.
Photo by BYØRK on Unsplash
Authors: Françoise Hernaez, Maxime Gicquel, luxury market experts.
*The Fashion Pack brought together over 150 industry stakeholders, including Kering and LVMH,
who has recently invested in Maison Stella McCartney.
6 ‒ © Ipsos | Global Advisor on Fashion
THE FASHION INDUSTRY & THE UP-CYCLING
Some examples
Rombaut
Maison Martin Margiela
Freitag
PFW 2020
7 ‒ © Ipsos | Global Advisor on Fashion
NEARLY 4 IN 10 CONSUMERS GLOBALLY DISAGREE THAT LUXURY
BRANDS RESPECT THE ENVIRONMENT MORE THAN OTHER BRANDS
Q. Luxury brands are more respectful of the environment than other brands in the apparel/ fashion/
accessories industry (% strongly or somewhat disagree)
Germany 53,%
Canada 37,%
Great Britain 37,%
Belgium 47,%
Mexico 37,%
Sweden 46,%
Turkey 37,%
France 45,%
Australia 36,%
Spain 43,%
Malaysia 35,%
Hungary 41,%
Poland 34,%
Italy 41,%
Global
average: Russia 34,%
Netherlands 41,%
Argentina
Chile 40,% 37% Peru 28,%
32,%
Japan 40,% China 26,%
Brazil 39,% India 25,%
South Korea 39,% South Africa 24,%
8 ‒ © Ipsos | Global Advisor on Fashion
United States 38,% Saudi Arabia 10,%AGREEMENT THAT LUXURY BRANDS ARE MORE RESPECTFUL OF THE
ENVIRONMENT IS WIDESPREAD ONLY IN A HANDFUL OF COUNTRIES
Q/ Luxury brands are more respectful of the environment than other brands in the apparel/ fashion/
accessories industry (% agree strongly or somewhat) Mexico 21,%
South Korea 20,%
Argentina 20,%
Chile 19,%
Saudi Arabia 58%
Malaysia 18,%
India 45% Sweden 16,%
Australia 16,%
China 39%
Hungary 15,%
Peru 35%
Italy 14,%
South Africa 35%
Global Japan 13,%
average: Great Britain 13,%
Turkey 31%
Poland 24%
21% United States
Canada
12,%
12,%
Russia 22%
France 11,%
Spain 11,%
Brazil 21%
Netherlands 11,%
Germany 10,%
Belgium 9,%
9 ‒ © Ipsos | Global Advisor on FashionMETHODOLOGY These are the findings of a survey conducted in 27 countries via Global Advisor, the online survey platform of Ipsos, between 24 January and 7 February, 2020. For this survey, Ipsos interviewed a total of 20,204 adults aged: 16-74 in Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Chile, China, France, Germany, Great Britain, Hungary, India, Italy, Japan, Malaysia, Mexico, Netherlands, Peru, Poland, Russia, Saudi Arabia, South Korea, Spain, and Sweden; and 18-74 in Canada, South Africa, Turkey, and the United States of America. The sample consists of 1,000+ individuals in each of Australia, Brazil, Canada, China France, Germany, Great Britain, Italy, Japan, Spain, and the U.S., and of 500+ individuals in each of the other countries surveyed. The data is weighted so each country’s sample composition best reflects the demographic profile of its adult population according to the most recent census data, and to give each country an equal weight in the total “global” sample. Online surveys can be taken as representative of the general working-age population in Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Canada, France, Germany, Great Britain, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Netherlands, Poland, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, and the United States. Online samples in other countries surveyed are more urban, more educated and/or more affluent than the general population and the results should be viewed as reflecting the views of a more “connected” population. Sample surveys and polls may be subject to other sources of error, including, but not limited to coverage error, and measurement error. The precision of online surveys conducted on Global Advisor is measured using a Bayesian Credibility Interval. Here, the poll has a credibility interval of +/-3.5 percentage points for countries where the sample is 1,000+ and +/- 4.8 points for countries where the sample is 500+. For more information on the Ipsos use of credibility intervals, please go to: https://www.ipsos.com/sites/default/files/2017- 03/IpsosPA_CredibilityIntervals.pdf. Where results do not sum to 100, this may be due to computer rounding, multiple responses or the exclusion of don't knows or not stated responses. The publication of these results abides by local laws and regulations. 10 © Ipsos | Global Advisor on Fashion
FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT:
Françoise Hernaez Maxime Gicquel
francoise.hernaez@ipsos.com maxime.gicquel@ipsos.com
11 ‒ © Ipsos | Global Advisor on FashionTHANK
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