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R IT!
GO
Get h
FO
ands- on with grab -and-go
DEC | 2020
3
Welcome
Welcome
Published by:
H2O Publishing, Media House,
3 Topley Dr, Rochester, ME3 8PZ
Tel: 0345 500 6008
www.oohmagazine.co.uk
@OOHmagazine
The Collins Dictionary named its official word of Managing Director
Jamie Robbins
the year recently – and I don’t think anyone would Divisional Director
have been surprised to see ‘lockdown’ going Rob Molinari
07850 797 252
rob@h2opublishing.co.uk
straight in at number one. Just 12 months ago, Twitter: @RobMolinari
when we were setting out our 2020 visions, I’m Director
Daniel Hillman
pretty sure few of us would have foreseen a year
07833 248 788
dan@h2opublishing.co.uk
Twitter: @hillmandan
when ‘coronavirus’ and ‘furlough’ also made the Director
Marc Sumner
top 10 – largely because I, for one, wasn’t even 07730 217 747
marc@h2opublishing.co.uk
aware that they were actual words until a good Twitter: @sumner_marc
Classified Sales
few months later. Sue Stunt
01474 520 243
sue@h2opublishing.co.uk
Indeed, Covid-19’s spread has been so pervasive that it even managed to largely knock Brexit
Editor
from the top of the news agenda. Our exit from the European Union really is imminent now, though, Henry Norman
01474 520 248
but the hope remains that the recent (apparent) removal of certain controversial political figures henry@h2opublishing.co.uk
Twitter: @HenryHNorman
on both sides of the pond may make our transition a little less ‘Australian’ in nature than it may have
otherwise been (see page 16 for more on this). Editorial Director
Tristan O’Hana
The best news of all, though, has been that several effective vaccines appear to have been
Features Editor
developed. Combined with the fact that the out of home industry has arguably already been the Gemma Bradish
sector that is best suited to surviving and thriving throughout the pandemic, hopefully we will see Contributors
Jennifer Campbell, Sarah Welsh,
a return something approaching normality not too long into the new year. It just remains for me to Kate Hindmarch, Mini Setty
and Peter Backman
wish you all a very merry (and, hopefully, as ‘normal’ as possible) Christmas on behalf of everyone
Design
here at H2O Publishing – see you on the other side! Marc Ayres
Matt Bailey
Production
Hannah Broad
Printed by
Buxton Press
Henry Norman
Editor
very
Have a nd,
(a
merry ly,
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hopefu l’
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as ‘no le)
sib
The paper used within this publication has
as pos as
been sourced from Chain-of-Custody certified
manufacturers, operating within international
m
Christ
environmental standards to ensure sustainable
sourcing of the raw materials, sustainable production
and to minimise our carbon footprint.
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine
5
Contents
Contents
Dec 2020
12 The big interview
Steven Whibley, Le Pain Quotidien
16 The big issue
Brexit 23 Grab and go
Market sift
06 News
All the latest 40 Pies and pasties
The pies have it 51 Bites
High street trends 55 Reader offers
Win Monin syrups!
11 Street food focus
Four Hundred Rabbits 42 Morning goods
Top of the morning! 52 Market insight
2020 trends 56 What’s new
Products and services
21
A coffee break with…
Lynsey Harley, Modern
Standard Coffee
47 Vegan and vegetarian
To me tofu 53 Recipe
Christmas chocolate puddings 58 Opinion
Peter Backman
38 Operator profile – Street food
Wander and Graze
50 Legal
Lockdown 54 Dates for your diary
All the upcoming events
@OOHmagazine Oohmagazine.co.uk
6
n-Oohs
News
The
National Burger Awards
2021 now open for entries
Entries for the 2021 National Burger Awards are now open, with chefs across the UK called on to
put their best burger forward for the seventh year of the competition. Once again, chefs from street
food, quick-service restaurant, pub, hotel and restaurant operations will battle it out to see if their
burger has what it takes to see off competition and be crowned National Burger of the Year. Chefs
will also face technical challenges using specific products for the chance to win other coveted titles
including National Burger Chef of the Year.
“It’s about time chefs around the UK had something to look forward to,” said Rosanna Spence,
editor of Dine Out, which organises the awards. “We’re determined to celebrate the best burgers
out there next year and invite entries from all kinds of menus – from low-and-slow cooked meat to
plant-based creations and everything in between. This prestigious cook-off is all about the burgers
and we cannot wait to start reading through the first wave of entries.”
Last year’s competition saw the Double Cheeseburger from Bleecker named as the best
burger in the UK. When the London-based business stormed the 2020 National Burger Awards,
chef Celine Raeburn, who manages Bleecker’s Spitalfields site, said: “This will reinforce our burgers
in people’s minds as one of the best, if not the best.
“Hopefully we’ll see a lot of footfall after the win and people will keep coming down to see us at
efs around
e ch ing to
all our sites. I’m super-happy and really excited. I was very nervous, but I’m just happy that the burger
ou t tim
It’s ab K had sometho
came through and tasted as good as it does in the shop.”
The latest instalment of the UK-wide search for the best burgers on British menus is sponsored
the U ok forward t
by Americana, Danish Crown, Farm Frites, Hellmann’s, Kühne and Meatless Farm.
For more information and to enter your burger, head to www.nationalburgerawards.co.uk.
lo Entries close 12th February 2021 (the cook-off is currently scheduled to take place in April 2021,
but more information will be provided to finalists nearer the time).
German Do ner Kebab Paul adapts for lockdown
to open 12 stores
German Doner Kebab (GDK) has announced that it will have opened 12 new restaurants by
the end of the year. The fast-casual brand currently has 47 restaurants throughout the country
as it continues its mission of bringing the GDK experience to more cities throughout the UK.
The ambitious growth plans will bring in the region of 480 new jobs to the country.
Key new locations in the expansion will include Liverpool, Nottingham, Bradford, Plymouth
and additional sites in London and Edinburgh. Further international growth in 2020 includes two
new sites in Canada, two in Sweden and one in Riyadh in Saudi Arabia.
CEO Imran Sayeed said: “Our game-changing recipes are revolutionising the kebab and
we are excited to be announcing these latest growth plans. We have found ourselves in very
challenging times, however there continues to be a huge demand for the German Doner Kebab
experience throughout the UK and our international growth regions.
“We are excited to build further momentum in our plans for growth and to be creating
hundreds of new jobs throughout the country as we maintain our mission of building the
fast-casual brand of the future.”
Some 28 Paul shops across London have remained open for takeaway, click-and-collect and
delivery through Ubereats and Deliveroo. They are all offering freshly baked loaves, pastries and
tarts, as well as hot drinks and now yeast and flour. In the lead up to the festive season, custom-
ers can also get their hands on a new range of Christmas sandwiches, as well as the famous
mince pie croissant, yule logs and Christmas cakes.
Paul has also reopened The Bread Market at its central bakery in Acton, West London, selling
freshly baked loaves straight from the oven. This initiative was originally put in place during the
first lockdown to help support the widespread demand for fresh bread and opens again with the
same intentions. Customers can enjoy buy one get one free on all 400g and 800g loaves, includ-
ing the pain de campagne, multigrain, two olives and, for something sweet, the cramique brioche.
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine
7
News
Only Food and Courses launches at Pop Brixton
Only Food and Courses, a new restaurant and events business serving modern dishes inspired by as Goodwood. The Pop Brixton site is the first of a number of units expected to open,
culinary trends of the 1980s and 1990s, recently opened its first site in Pop Brixton. The 28-seater with a London high-street site earmarked for summer 2021.
venue is a repurposed shipping container, with interiors that are inspired by the same two decades It opens from 12pm to 5pm, serving walk-in guests light and brunch menus, and offers
and modelled around a ‘greasy spoon’ café – though the menu will feature high-end dishes. a choice of two, four or six courses for dinner between 6pm and 10pm every Wednesday
It’s the brainchild of Robbie Lorraine and Martyn Barrett, and the restaurant follows a series of to Sunday. Pop Brixton has already acted as an incubator for a number of restaurant brands, includ-
pop-up events delivered in Kent where Lorraine (whose chef credentials include Roux Fine Dining, The ing Kricket and Smoke & Salt.
Shard and Royal Ascot) and his team served guests his unique take on food inspired by his childhood. “I’ve always had a vision for something like this so I’m really excited to be bringing it to life now,”
Dishes on the menu include crab scotch eggs, confit duck eclairs, pop tarts and lobster doughnuts. said Lorraine. “Food brings back so many memories for people and I really enjoy tapping into some
Barrett, who has commercial and operations experience, has led and launched multiple of these with some modern twists on things we used to eat.
businesses, including major food halls at Selfridges & Co in London and Birmingham; high-end “We live in strange times so I hope some of these warm memories of our childhood will give
restaurants at London City Airport; as well as high-profile event catering operations at venues such people some comfort! I can’t wait to have a bit of fun with the menu.”
Rashfo rd retweets HRC 2021 cancelled due
free meal offers to Covid-19
After long discussions with industry stakeholders and key partners, Montgomery
Group has taken the extremely difficult decision to postpone the 2021 Hotel, Restau-
Marcus Rashford responded to the government voting down Labour’s motion to offer free rant & Catering (HRC) event until 28 th February 2022.
school meals during holidays until Easter 2021 by retweeting businesses, many of them out of Ronda Annesley, event manager for HRC, said: “Even though we had introduced
home operators, that have offered to feed children for free during half-term using the hashtag All Secure Standard, a risk assessment-based framework for Covid-19, and planned
#EndChildPoverty. The Manchester United player said he was “blown away” by the offers, for the highest standards of hygiene and cleanliness, ultimately the lack of guidance
which come from an industry that is already facing unprecedented difficulties due to Covid-19. and clarity from government on when business events can restart has meant that
One business to step up was Kingfisher Fish and Chips in Kingston upon Hull, which mes- we have had to take the painful decision to postpone HRC until 2022.
saged: “No child should ever go hungry. The current government might not care but we do. “Although HRC has a large international attendance of both exhibitors and visitors,
“If you are struggling, all next week you will be able to inbox this page with no questions and we felt extremely confident that we could deliver a safe and secure live event for the
no judgements and we will happily sort out a child’s hot meal. All we ask is you message the tens of thousands of hospitality industry professionals that look forward to the show
page first in total confidence.” each year. We are devastated that we will not be able to play our part next year in
Rashford tweeted: “Blown away by news of local businesses stepping up to fill the voucher helping the hospitality industry recover from the catastrophic consequences of the
scheme deficit during the October half-term. Selflessness, kindness, togetherness, this is the pandemic in a face to face format.
England I know. “However, we are currently investigating numerous ways in which we can continue
“Add #EndChildPoverty to your tweets so I can track them. I will share as many as I can.” to support and connect with the hospitality industry throughout 2021 and beyond, and
Responding to the tweet, the Labour leader Keir Starmer said: “If the government won’t do hope to make an announcement around this in the near future. We would like to thank
the right thing, the great people of this country will. Incredible examples of local businesses and our loyal exhibitors and visitors for their ongoing support and look forward to seeing
communities coming together to provide free meals to children over the holidays. But it should them again face to face in 2022.”
never have come to this.” HRC was due to run from 22 nd to 24 th March 2021 at ExCeL, London, alongside
Rashford spent the previous day visiting and helping out at a new foodbank. FareShare the International Food & Drink Event, IFE Manufacturing Solutions, PUB21, the Euro-
Greater Manchester named a new warehouse in honour of his mother Melanie, who accom- pean Tea, Coffee and Soft Drinks Expo, the London Produce Show and the Festival
panied him on the trip. of Enterprise.
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine
8
n-Oohs
News
The
Wing Shack Co opens
new delivery kitchen
Wing Shack Co has announced the opening of its new delivery kitchen in Canary Wharf. Despite
the hospitality industry facing tougher restrictions, founders Joshua Jarvis and Larry Shiro have
decided to press on with the expansion, opening a state-of-the-art kitchen serving a delivery radius
of 2.5 miles around Canary Wharf.
Available on Deliveroo and Uber Eats, the menu features the small chain’s classic signatures
including Changs Honey and Sesame and Jarvis Tangy Buffalo wings. Meanwhile, for those
hankering after vegetarian options, the Edgy Veggie burger with charred halloumi, soy marinated
mushroom and tomato relish is also available.
Jarvis said: “It’s only an uncertain time if you believe it is. We think it’s a time of opportunity. With
the likelihood of more restrictions and people being at home, it’s a great opportunity to expand our
delivery radius so we can cater to our customers and attract new customers as well.”
t i m e of
’s a
e t hi nk it
W o r tu n ity
opp
Follow us @OOHmagazine
Dine Out @DineOutMagazine
Have you seen our big news yet? In a matter of
days @CasualDiningMag will become Dine Out
– a new magazine and website covering the whole
restaurant industry. Fill your boots with all the info,
here – www.casualdiningmagazine.co.uk
Arena Events @Arenanetworking
Brilliant session on mental health and well-being.
Some key takeaways: – Better communication
– Instilling a real sense of purpose – Look after
yourself so you can look after others – Consistent
Sugoi JPN collaborates with
programme to look after each other – Removing
stigma – Keep checking in
The Chelsea Lodge Marcus Rashford MBE @MarcusRashford
Blown away by news of local businesses stepping
The creators of multi award-winning street food concept Sugoi JPN have a firm grasp on the future of the indus- up to fill the voucher scheme deficit during
try with the launch of Under One Kitchen, a project that aims to help and support fellow hospitality brands during the October half term. Selflessness, kindness,
the global pandemic. By opening multiple dark kitchens across London, Sugoi JPN enables both start-ups and togetherness, this is the England I know. Add
established brands to work alongside each other but as distinct businesses, to maximise their current structure #ENDCHILDFOODPOVERTY to your tweets
while cutting down on peripheral costs. The brand ambitiously plans to launch 50 dark kitchens across London so I can track them. I will share as many as I can
as part of its franchise expansion initiative, in a bid to establish a more resilient hospitality industry.
In three months, Sugoi JPN has already opened three sites in South Wimbledon, Palmers Green and Tooting Yellowbicyclecafe @yellowbicycle1
Broadway, and it plans to launch its fourth along with sister brand Arepita Sliders on 4th November in the heart In the midst of the crazy world we are in at the
of Chelsea, working alongside The Chelsea Lodge. The popular dining, bar and nightclub spot on King’s Road will moment, receiving this amazing email from
continue to run its successful in-house Italian restaurant, while also offering a new takeaway and delivery service. TripAdvisor today helps make it all worthwhile.
Customers are able to choose from three different menu concepts: Japanese-Latin fusion street food from Our little cafe in the top ten percent of restaurants
Sugoi JPN, authentic Italian cuisine from The Chelsea Lodge and Venezuelan-inspired fill-it-yourself arepas in the world? Wow!!!!!!! Steve, Rhe, Cara and Meg
from Arepita Sliders. The Chelsea Lodge accepts walk-ins for those who wish to enjoy their takeaway but in #Dorset #local #Blandford
the comfort of the restaurant.
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine
9 COMMERCIAL PRESENTATION
News
Heinz Food Heroes
winners announced
Don’t take the risk!
How many times have we heard people saying ‘It
was an accident waiting to happen’, after an event has
occurred?
The lead up to the event might sound something like this:
“Oh, I’ll mop up that spill in a second”, “I can balance an
extra plate of food to save me a trip” or “I’ll get someone
out to fix that fridge tomorrow.”
And the result? A customer or a member of staff is
injured, you waste stock, you lose customers and in the
worst case scenario you could even lose your business.
The question you have to ask yourself is, is it really
worth the risk? Especially if something could have been
TRACEY HARRIOTT done to avoid it.
At The Retail Mutual we know all about risks and the
devastating impact they can have on catering businesses.
p o s s ible Dealing with risks every day, we’ve been protecting inde-
’t be
pendent businesses for over 20 years. Our business cover
wo u l d n p e o p le offers not only financial protection but also peace of mind,
It
l l t h e help security and support.
ta
With two decades of experience and knowledge of
withou happy to give
claims and risks within the catering industry, we have
created an in-depth health and safety guide and risk-
are assessment template to help our customers and other
independent catering businesses to manage and minimise
their risks.
Heinz Food Heroes, the new awards programme from Heinz and Arena seeking to recognise and celebrate those The Retail Mutual’s Risk Assessment Guide highlights
within the food industry who have gone above and beyond in their community, has announced its inaugural winners. some of the most common risks that could occur in a
Tracey Harriott, supervisor for Starbucks for the contract caterer Amadeus at the NEC, was named Most Heroic catering business together with practical solutions that
Individual, while Most Heroic Team went to Fish & Chips @ Weston Grove. you can implement to help reduce those risks. Carrying out
Harriott’s story began five years ago when she noticed lots of food was thrown away at the end of each day at regular risk assessments in your establishment can help
the NEC, due to expiry dates. Having just started volunteering for local charities in her community, she saw this as an reduce injuries, minimise claims and avoid loss of earnings,
opportunity to collect the food at the end of each day and deliver it to the community projects she was volunteering keeping your staff and customers safe in the process.
for. Since then, Harriott has built a network of colleagues and local businesses to gather clothes, bedding, toiletries
and furniture, in addition to food. Donations are split between a number of beneficiaries, including hostels, the home- Download our free risk assessment now by visiting – there-
less and community sport groups designed to empower children. tailmutual.com/risk-assessment-guide-catering
“I’m in shock!” said Harriott. “I’d like to thank the team at the NEC for their continued support in both collecting and
supplying donations, my colleagues and friends and family. I may co-ordinate it, but it wouldn’t be possible without all
the help people are prepared and happy to give.”
Lorraine Wood, director of Arena, added: “Huge congratulations go to the winners! We’d also like to thank everyone
who took part in Heinz Food Heroes. It was both inspiring and humbling to read through all the entries; we were over-
whelmed by the kindness and selflessness that both individuals and teams have shown.”
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine
11
Street food focus
F o u r H u nd r e d R
a bbi t s
Henry Nor
on the highman checks out the
just a flash street – are they mdishes that are being
in the pan? ore than hyped
What? flavor explosion”: Restaurant Guru; “the choice their focus on sourdough pizza and craft beer –
The Chorizo One. of pizza was amazing and they were absolutely though it’s the former I’m here for. Having naturally
delicious”: TripAdvisor; “some of the best pizza in gravitated towards ‘The Chorizo One’, I can draw
Where? South East London”: my colleague. one of two conclusions: either I’m a genius and I
Four Hundred Rabbits serves up sourdough pizza absolutely nailed it first time, or their menu is to an
and craft beer from four restaurants across South We say: extremely high standard.
East London. With London in lockdown and options at a premium, Building from the base, which is as moist and
after some thought I am able to pull a rabbit from chewy as it’s possible to get while ostensibly still
How much? the hat in the form of an old recommendation doing its job, the chorizo, which is bought in from
£11. from an extremely reliable source. Not only does Brindisa, gives as tantalising a taste of foreign
my colleague who previously told me that Four adventure as may be possible for some time.
The menu says: Hundred Rabbits serves up “some of the best The red chillies somehow elevate things further,
“Tomato, mozzarella, soft and semi cured Iberico pizza in South East London” work on our sister- providing the sort of kick that Del Piero would be
chorizo, pickled red chillies, basil.” publication Dine Out (do check it out), but he also proud of.
eats (and I cannot stress this enough) a truly
The hype says: grande amount of Italian food. Should you believe the hype?
“The sourdough pizza was a glamorous and glorious These guys are fermentation fanatics – hence Si – this is Rabbit food at its finest.
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine12
The French
The big interview
confection
After near bankruptcy and six months of closure,
a slimmed-down version of Le Pain Quotidien’s UK
operation is back under the new leadership of managing
director Steven Whibley, discovers Jane Renton
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine13
The big interview
It’s an understatement to say that Le Pain Quotidien has had something
of an annus horribilis, and one only partially due to Covid. The Belgian
bakery chain, started by self-confessed ‘accidental entrepreneur’ Alain
Coumont, had expanded internationally over the past three decades,
fuelled by a growing appetite for its sourdough, its reassuringly solid
communal wooden tables and coffee served in traditional bowls. But
with success came hubris and 2020. Even before the year of the great
scourge, the chain’s clientele of affluent urbanites who once loved
Le Pain’s authentic simplicity had moved on to the next big thing in a
rapidly evolving market, especially in the UK and US.
In the UK, the company had 26 branches, predominantly in London,
at the beginning of the year, but only a handful were making money.
The company had grown too fast, moving into London suburbs like
Highgate in North London, where I lived for close on 20 years. I could
have warned Le Pain that the place was a graveyard for hospitality
businesses, both good and bad, that had steadily arrived and then
departed during that time. The residents are tight with their money,
way
h a d l ost its
Le Pai n
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine14
The big interview
n g t o deal
evol v i ng
We are tantly chan gi
ns
with co umstances
circ
obsessively saving it for school fees and crippling mortgages.
The company had also moved into the killing fields of casual dining,
coming up against brands such as Carluccio’s and, like its Italian
competitor, which was sold earlier this year for just £2.5m, not doing it
particularly well, yet often charging more than competitors. “Le Pain had
lost its way,” acknowledges Steven Whibley, who formerly ran Gail’s Bakery
and before that was an original franchisee of Le Pain. “It had moved into
casual dining and away from its traditional bakery roots.”
He was invited by the board to join the company in January, initially as
a consultant and later in the summer as its new UK managing director. His
immediate task was to determine what the troubled operation could do
to turn its failing business around. After a couple of months surveying the
wider bakery scenes in Brussels, Paris and London, he determined that
Le Pain should get back to its bakery roots. The clue after all was in the
chain’s very name: Le Pain Quotidien, translated from French as ‘the daily
bread’ – the very staple that put the company on the map in the first place.
The industry veteran did not mince his words. He told Le Pain’s bosses
that the chain had strayed too far from its heritage, that the dining side
of the business had become too dominant at the expense of retail, which
had been steadily shrinking. “We had lost something more than just retail
sales,” he says. “I think there’s something lovely about walking into a shop
like Le Pain Quotidien and seeing freshly-made breads and patisserie out
on display by the entrance – sometimes people just want to linger there
rather than feeling pressurised into immediately taking a table.”
As for the breads, the range had not changed much over 10 years in
either range or size. The sandwich fillings were essentially the same as
they had been when the chain first opened and there were insufficient
savoury items in the bakery offer. Skill and craftsmanship had evaporated
from Le Pain’s premises, with ovens, prep benches and food mixers
steadily being removed from kitchens. “We used to make tarts and
scones in virtually every bakery, but all that had been taken out and
replaced with frozen stuff,” explains Steven, something he describes
as “a short-term gain leading to long-term loss”.
The coffee also needed to be better and reflect what Steven refers to
as “a proper barista culture”. “When you are in a business like Le Pain with
high London rents, you need strong profitability running through your
menu, which coffee helps provide,” he asserts.
Steven’s initial idea was to address all these perceived problems in
one or two selected branches of the chain. However, a torrent of events
overtook his plans for any gentle test-driving of his new strategy. Le
Pain Quotidien had been in trouble since 2018 when a rights issue and
new global management had failed to steady the ship. Tim Cocker, who
had formerly been UK global officer at Le Pain, was brought back into
the business in October 2019 and he in return asked Steven to come in
and help. But by the first lockdown in March, a full-scale cashflow crisis
was underway. “The UK business basically went into administrative
measures,” says Steven. “There was a cashflow crunch immediately.
We were in trouble. We needed to find a way out of this with a buyer
rather than anything else.”
Steven, who had eight weeks left of his contract with Le Pain still to
run, stayed on to help rescue the company. A plan was put together,
one that aimed to keep the business solvent by re-opening the bakeries
identified by Steven as being capable of making money. “We could still
run a retail operation out of those bakeries,” he says. “We had product,
we had people. We could start generating sales… [while] various buyers
were sought for the business.”
But the work of business rescue was proving tough in the pandemic.
Plans to sell the UK business to franchisees or any willing buyer was
proving difficult. In the US, Le Pain Quotidien’s business had been acquired
by master franchisee Aurify Inc of New York, something that Le Pain’s
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine15
The big interview
ry and
Belgian owner had similarly hoped would happen with its British interests.
But no buyer emerged. The company found itself in a dire position by
t b a ke
April: “We basically entered administration because we couldn’t keep
o t j u s t abou ly they are
It’s n ential e plan
the business out of it,” recalls Steven.
Essentially, M80 and Cobepa, the investors behind the Belgian
b u t e s s
and French Le Pain Quotidien businesses, were forced to step in
retail, r s t o n e of th
ne
the cor
and acquire the UK operations in June, forming a new company,
BrunchCo. It was done through a partial but nevertheless
controversial pre-pack deal. “In the end we formed a group and took
[Le Pain] on ourselves,” says Steven. “It was all very touch and go, but
we managed to strike a deal with the administrators.”
Steven had been pressing for a solvent purchase throughout the of 21 days in September. With a second Covid lockdown now in place
negotiation. “I thought it would have been a better way out,” he says, until early December, 14 stores, including one in Oxford, continue to
adding that a collateralised debt agreement would have provided far run, fulfilling their original conception as neighbourhood bakeries.
more certainty for teams and suppliers. As he readily acknowledges, pre- Covent Garden, which is one of the more successful branches, but
packs do not provide much return for smaller creditors and suppliers who is largely dependent on tourists, and Aveda Holborn, dependent on
do not stand to gain much from such deals. In the event, the deal enabled office workers, have temporarily closed.
them to salvage some 200 of its 500 jobs. The intention was to rescue Meanwhile, top sites such as St Pancras, Marylebone, Exhibition
18 of its existing 26 branches. “The only deal we could get done was to Road and Royal Festival Hall remain open, along with branches
take the actual assets and teams,” says Steven. “We didn’t even take the such as Tottenham Court Road, which Steven hopes to turn around
leases on, we took licences to occupy and took the risk that we could with his reforms. “It’s not just about bakery and retail,” he says, “but
negotiate new leases with our landlords.” essentially they are the cornerstone of the plan.”
As previously mentioned, Steven and his new management had The plan is about getting back to basics, but also premium values,
identified 18 of its 26 original UK sites that the rescued chain could make with a menu built upon bakery and oven. As Steven says, the effects
money on. Of that 18, only half were profitable. “There were eight sites in of Covid will be felt for some time, but Le Pain now has the headroom
London that we felt were not viable and had been losing money pre-Covid, it needs to recover from the pain of the past, unlike some of its
as well as one in Leeds that was not trading well.” competitors. It has done its forecasts conservatively. It had already
While there may have been a business case to just trade off the most come up with four different scenarios to deal with the vagaries of the
profitable five or six stores, the plan was to proceed with 18, which Steven current pandemic. “We are evolving to deal with constantly changing
felt with the right management could trade profitably. In the event, the circumstances,” he says, adding that while times change, values do
company has secured 16 site leases, dropping two branches – South not. It’s about authenticity and sustainability: organic farming and
Hampstead and King’s Road, London – where it could not agree terms provenance, food and bakery can seem like an indulgence but it also
with respective landlords. has to have health in mind. All these things remain more relevant than
The company’s remaining 16 sites were re-opened over a period ever and are the key to Le Pain Quotidien’s long-term survival.
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine16
The big issue
Deja v-EU Henry Norman speaks to the FDF and
Bidfood to find out how our apparently
imminent exit from the EU will affect
the food and drink industry
With the coronavirus crisis (understandably) dominating the social and There are, however, those who argue that the Brexit dream has somewhat
political landscape, it can sometimes be forgotten that we voted to leave the diluted since then, that the original ‘movement’ comprised different, disunited
European Union (EU) some four years, five months, three prime ministers and interests – disaster capitalists to deniers of climate change, idealists to
countless deadline extensions ago. Though we, of course, officially left at the opportunists – unable to agree on an actual exit strategy. There has also
beginning of the year, the can has been kicked down the road that many times been the seismic shift Stateside, with the removal of Donald Trump, himself
– and some have suggested that the sensible response would be to extend a great believer in Brexit, and his replacement by Joe Biden, who has been
again beyond the impending 31st December deadline – that many passionate far more sceptical (as was his predecessor Barack Obama) and has said
be-Leavers could be forgiven for thinking that the terrain has become one that he will not sign up to any trade deal that will threaten the Good Friday
elongated cul-de-sac. Agreement. But, most significantly of all, Johnson and co received an
Things have moved on, however, since the days of Theresa May, who, overwhelming mandate less than a year ago from the public to ‘Get Brexit
perhaps unfairly, was treated with suspicion by some due to having voted Done’, transforming May’s minority into an impressive 80-seat majority
remain herself; despite the fact that her deal would have taken us out of both that even managed to turn Labour’s historic northern red wall blue.
the single market and the customs union (hardly the softly, softly approach As I type this, at the last moment possible before our print deadline,
– or, as others would doubtless complain, what was promised by the Leave the negotiations are still apparently deadlocked over the issues of the
campaigns). The present government is made of (even) more determined level playing field for competition going forwards, fishing rights and the
stuff, though; indeed, the requisite for entry was a commitment to back the aforementioned Irish border. Meanwhile, businesses are still being urged to
prime minister on a no-deal Brexit (the only prominent remainer among them ‘Get Ready for Brexit’, as the slogan goes – though the news broke recently
being health secretary Matt Hancock). And, at the top, you have the very that a ‘haulier handbook’ designed to help avoid border delays from 1st
architects of our exit: Boris Johnson, the passionate advocate who fronted January onwards, which was originally due in early September, will now
the Leave campaign; Michael Gove, who in a previous incarnation as a not be available until 7th December.
journalist wrote articles pretty much inventing the concept; and, until recently, There will clearly be repercussions for the foodservice industry
Dominic Cummings, who ran the whole movement to ‘Take Back Control’. and Dominic Goudie, head of international trade for the Food and Drink
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine17
The big issue
s a re fully
w b u s inesse tage
Very fe red at this s
prepa
Federation (FDF), feels that the government could have done a better job preparing for the end of the transition period.”
of preparing the country in advance. “Industry has prepared itself as well Goudie goes on to flag other issues, ones that he describes as being
as it can ahead of the end of the transition period,” he tells me. “However, “vitally important”, that remain unresolved in the negotiations – such as the
large gaps remain in the information that has been provided by government, future of the organics trade, with British organic producers potentially being
not least on labelling and organic products. This means that very few shut out of trading with Northern Ireland and the EU. “While we are working
businesses are fully prepared at this stage, and the latest FDF Business closely with the UK government to highlight the issues at stake for food
Readiness Survey shows around 50% of businesses do not expect to be and drink, we are deeply concerned that even a thin Brexit deal will mean
fully prepared ahead of the end of the transition period.” impossible deadlines for UK manufacturers that depend on highly
The FDF has actually shared a list of some 175 questions with the integrated UK-EU just-in-time supply chains,” he says.
government, many of which it has been asking since May agreed the Northern Keen to get the opinion on the ground from one of the suppliers, the
Ireland Protocol, but Goudie says that it has only recently started to receive wholesaler Bidfood strikes a slightly more optimistic tone. “While no trade
responses. “In many cases, these answers are too late for businesses to deal has been agreed as yet, we’re confident that we are well-versed in
make required changes in time for 1st January 2021,” he says. preparations for Brexit,” supply chain and technical services director Jim
When it comes to supply chains, Goudie fears that ending frictionless Gouldie (not to be confused with Goudie of the FDF) tells me. “We have a
trade with the EU may not be compatible with a nation that has only recently strong and experienced Brexit team in place, led by key members of our
been hit by a pandemic of panic-buying. “Businesses will face a new system of board, who have reconvened in recent months to revisit our plans and to
controls and checks that will inevitably slow down movements of goods and reassess and mitigate any risks as we approach the end of the transition
add new costs,” he says. “While our industry has demonstrated remarkable period. Our plans have to-date been based on the scenario of a no-deal
resilience during the Covid-19 pandemic, many businesses have used up exit from the EU. While we hope negotiations do not result in no trade deal,
stockpiles that had been built for a no-deal Brexit to cope with increased it remains a possibility as things stand and, in the meantime, we believe it is
demand. Staff have also been redeployed to respond to the Covid crisis and, essential to protect our customers by having robust and comprehensive
as a result, many businesses have fewer available resources to dedicate to plans in place.”
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine18
The big interview
e a re well-
d e n t that w r Brexit
on fi s fo
We’re c preparation
in
versed
Gouldie explains that Bidfood has been in close consultation with added costs facing our industry would have to be passed on
government teams, suppliers, industry bodies, and EU and UK customs to consumers.”
for some time now in order to ascertain the risks, particularly in relation Bidfood’s Gouldie agrees that there will be challenges for the
to availability and the impact of tariffs. “We have done this to get a industry either way, saying: “Whether or not a deal is negotiated
full picture of supply chain readiness, in order to prepare for different between the UK and the EU, we can expect changes at the end of
scenarios, which we have built into our contingency planning,” he says. the transition period that will affect the hospitality sector. These
The company has written to suppliers again; revisited its red/ may include changes on the immigration front [see next page], but
amber/green risk assessments across its core range; and put in potentially changes to food legislation in the future, some currency
place mitigation plans for products where it believes there is some fluctuation, and there will still be new processes and procedures
risk to availability (and even products deemed to be ‘low risk’ where involved in importing categories like fresh meat, dairy and produce.
the product is of a critical nature). “These plans include increasing “Whatever shape our exit might take, it will be a new and challenging
contingency stock and identifying alternative products or routes to phase of change for the UK, and we’ll be putting every ounce of effort
market,” Gouldie says. “We have also assessed the impact of World into ensuring as little disruption as possible, and keeping customers
Trade Organization [WTO] tariffs on customers, should the UK exit informed and advised as we approach 31st December.”
with no trade agreement in place.” The FDF’s Goudie, however, thinks that despite the amount of
There has, of course, been much speculation that leaving on WTO time that the government has had to prepare us for this once-in-a-
terms, or without a deal, would lead to an increase in prices, as new generation change, Brexit will remain a huge issue well beyond the
tariffs are applied. “A no-deal outcome would be catastrophic for UK 31st. “We believe periods of adjustment and even an amnesty will be
supply chains, with added costs averaging 23% for UK food and drink required after the formal transition period ends, and clarity is finally
exports to the EU and 18% to our essential imports,” says the FDF’s available on our new terms of trade to allow businesses the time
Goudie. “In practice, the added costs would be even higher because they will urgently need to make required changes; whether that is
of further added costs facing imports of essential non-food raw adapting food labelling, or putting new processes and procedures
materials, as well as inputs used in UK agriculture that would drive in place to cope with multiple new border requirements for trade in
further cost into the food chain.” both directions with the EU and Northern Ireland. Failure to do this will
On the effect of leaving with a deal, he adds: “Consumer prices undermine choice and value for UK shoppers.”
are set by retailers rather than manufacturers, so we are one step We have been told for some time now that ‘no deal is better than a
removed, but given grocery retail and manufacturing operates bad deal’. The suspicion remains, however, that, even at this late stage,
on typically low margins, it is highly likely that most if not all of the no-one seems to know quite what a ‘good deal’ looks like either.
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine19
The big issue
HOSPITALITY
BUSINESSES MUST
APPLY FOR SPONSOR
LICENCES NOW
The end of freedom of movement for skilled workers from the
EEA could lead to recruitment shortages in the hospitality
sector, which businesses must act quickly to avoid says Mini
Setty, a partner at Langleys Solicitors
The coronavirus pandemic has already put a huge amount of pressure on soon as possible to avoid skills shortages, limiting business growth.
the hospitality sector and, with Brexit on the horizon, businesses are likely “To apply for a sponsor licence, organisations will have to undergo checks
to face further challenges. Given the industry’s reliance on foreign workers, to ensure they are genuine, solvent and hiring for roles that meet the required
particularly chefs and catering professionals, employment law specialist, skill and salary thresholds and checks on senior personnel and key users
Mini Setty, urges hospitality businesses to apply for sponsor licences now of the licence. There is a licence fee that applicants must pay and a £624
to avoid future skills shortages. immigration health surcharge to cover the employee’s medical insurance.
Speaking to us on the topic, Setty says: “The hospitality industry provides There is an immigration skills charge, which is used to address skills gaps
jobs for thousands of workers from the EU and beyond, and as free movement in the UK workforce, and there are additional fees when applying for
comes to an end on 1st January 2021, it is vital employers are prepared for certificates of sponsorship and visas for each migrant worker.
the new laws. From the new year, employers must hold a sponsor licence to “To reiterate, from 1st January 2021, it will be illegal for businesses to
employ talent from outside of the UK and can no longer assume that hires hire workers from outside the UK if they do not have a sponsor licence.
from the European Economic Area [EEA] will automatically be able to take Considering the sector’s reliance on foreign workers, it is important that
up employment in the country. businesses start planning budgets and applying for sponsor licences now.
“A study by KPMG estimated that the hospitality sector requires 62,000 EU Failure to do so may lead to organisations becoming short-staffed and
migrants per annum to be able to maintain current activities and to grow. Of unable to offer a good service, which could be fatal in the sector’s recovery
course, this is likely to be lower now given the pandemic, but recruitment gaps from the pandemic.”
are a guaranteed way to stunt the industry’s recovery, so employers must be
ponsor
aware of how to avoid them.
“The new immigration system will be points-based and the most common
l d a s
work entry route will be via a visa for skilled workers. To qualify for a skilled
e rs m ust ho ent from
Emplo to employ tal
y
worker visa, prospective employees must speak English to the required level
and be accepting a job from a sponsor licence holder that meets the required
K
skills level – roughly equivalent to A Levels – and salary threshold – £25,600 or
licence side of the U
the industry average if it is lower. In the context of hospitality this will mainly
apply for chefs, who are already in incredibly high demand.
out
“Sponsor licence applications should be made directly to the Home Office
via the UK Visas and Immigration service [UKVI]. The UKVI are expecting an influx
in sponsor licence applications in the coming weeks as businesses prepare Langleys Solicitors has a dedicated and experienced employment team
for more employees in need of sponsorship, so administrative delays are likely. on hand who can assist you and your business with any issues related to
Businesses who are looking to employ foreign talent must apply for a licence as Brexit and employment. For more information, visit www.langleys.com
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine21
A coffee break with...
Lynsey Harley
Founder, Modern
Standard Coffee
What does your job typically entail? And your least favourite?
It’s a mix of sales, marketing, finance and firefighting. I’m Doing the boring but necessary stuff – but I won’t bore
not someone content with just doing one thing – if I don’t you with the details!
have four things on the go, I feel out of sorts. I got into
the coffee industry because I loved the social aspect of What’s your favourite food and beverage?
coffee, and for me as a young 20-something, I was able
to travel and that was exciting. Ramen and coffee, of course. I have a slight
Now, I’m doing basically no travel which was a large obsession with good ramen, my favourite place is
like
part of my job before; visiting producers at origin and Slurp in Copenhagen and Momofuku in New York.
s a b it
It’
customers in the UK and Europe. I spend that time now Slurp, in particular, has one of the most flavourful
lness,
with my staff doing a lot of education and passing on broths I’ve ever had, it’s utterly delicious. I usually
my knowledge and experience, which is going to pay
m i nd f u spent a few days in Copenhagen a month, pre-
ou
when y to
dividends for Modern Standard. Covid-19, of course, and I had a little routine. I would
purposely go to Slurp on my own, as it was on a first
ing
are try s on
How did you get into the industry? come basis, and there was usually a seat for one, so
I could jump the queue on those cold evenings and
cu
just fo ee
warm up with a bowl of ramen.
When I was at university, I had a part-time job as a
the coff
barista. When I moved to London after university,
I wasn’t still quite sure what I wanted to do. I ended And your least favourite?
up taking a job at Fernandez & Wells in Beak Street,
Soho. It was voted Time Out’s best café in London, I like most foods, but if I had to choose it would be tofu.
so working there was pretty cool. However, after a And my least favourite beverage would be bad coffee.
few months living on minimum wage in London, I
realised I needed to earn more, so I e-mailed a bunch What one piece of advice would you offer someone
of coffee roasters asking if they had any positions working in the industry?
open and I received a response within an hour.
Take your time and do your stints in different businesses –
What’s your favourite part of your working day? large, small, commercially focused and disrupters. It gives
you a broad appreciation of all the things you need to
Cupping coffees first thing in the morning. I enjoy the have experienced to add value to wherever you work next.
process of quality control as it’s quite a good way to I see a lot of people I used to work with just moving on
start the day. It’s a bit like mindfulness, when you are after a few years, like a merry-go-round, and I often think
trying to just focus on the coffee and note it’s character it’s because they’ve not stayed long enough somewhere
and flavour profile. to truly understand what made that business.
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine23
Grab and go
Quick
Fix
Grab-and-go options are in high
demand, so foodservice outlets need
to do all they can to maximise the
sales opportunities this presents
With the pace of life ever-quickening, grab-and-go love the convenience of being able to eat what they
options have become an important segment in the want, when they want it, wherever they are, while cafés,
out of home sector, netting operators some serious restaurants and even pubs have added takeaway options
profit. Naturally, the pandemic has had an impact to compensate for seating numbers being reduced
on the whole foodservice industry, with year-on- through the need for social distancing,” points out Nick
ll grow
year declines nationwide. In fact, according to data Burton, managing director of Celebration Packaging.
compiled by MealTrak, food-to-go sales dropped by When it comes to grab-and-go options, the key to
l e s w i
Sa
22% between August 2019 and August 2020. “One success is tapping into consumer trends. With the market
mers
thing that comes over from the research is that when set to reach the value of £23.4bn by 2024, according to if custo nt
fide
are con lity
consumers were asked what they were missing IGD Research, out of home operators need to offer a
during lockdown and other restrictions, it is hot range of options to suit a wide demographic. “Lifestyles
qua
in the
drinks and hot food-to-go items that they craved,” have changed so much over the past 10 to 15 years and
points out Gordon Lauder, MD of Central Foods. consumers want to be able to grab breakfast, lunch
food
According to a recent report by Lumina Intelligence – or tea from a café, bakery or takeaway and eat it at a of your
g and
offerin
Food-To-Go After Lockdown Report 2020 – the food-to-go place of their choice,” says Cristiana Ballarini, activation
ety of
sector contracted by £6bn during lockdown. However, director – west, south and international for CSM Bakery
despite the drop in sales throughout this period, the Solutions. “Grab-and-go has become even more
the saf
report forecasted that the market will recover close prevalent during the Covid-19 pandemic.”
u r p re mises
to its 2019 level by the end of 2022.
The Covid-19 pandemic has driven demand for grab-
From sandwiches, sausage rolls and hand-held
global dishes to sweet treats, the grab-and-go options
yo
and-go options among consumers still keen to retain available in the UK today are vast. This gives out of
some semblance of normal life. Subsequently, more home operators plenty of scope to increase sales
outlets are now offering takeaway options. “Consumers with the help of a well-balanced menu.
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine24
CSM
Grab and go
CREATIVE FOODS
CSM
CSM
Street food is in high demand on UK high streets, Mixes are a great option for outlets that want to
with consumers craving authentic flavours and informal create products in-house with ease, as they can be used
menus. In fact, according to CGA, 32% of consumers to make a whole range of products, all of which can be
are seeking more street food and sharing-style menus, upgraded with additional ingredients. For example, a
so there’s a great profit potential in serving dishes with plain or chocolate muffin mix can be used as a base for
global flavours. “The current street food market is now breakfast muffins and operators can add muesli, fruit
worth an estimated £1.2bn in the UK [MCA Insight 2018] and nuts for something a little different.
and is not showing any signs of slowing down,” points Visual appeal is just as important, if not more so, for
out Kim Hartley, business development chef for Mission grab-and-go items as any other in the out of home sector,
nd go
Foods. “For operators to really capitalise on these as customers are often short on time and need to make
Grab a trends and react to consumer demand, they should be decisions fast. Therefore, they need to look good and
come looking at offering a hand-held menu that is bursting taste good. One way to easily achieve this is to customise
has be with bold flavours, is adventurous and leaves a lasting homemade and premade products with fillings and
ore
even m
impression.” For inspiration, operators can check out toppings. Readymade icings and toppings are a quick
Mission Foods’ vast library of online recipes to get the and simple way to elevate products to the next level,
nt
prevale most from their menus and to create stand-out meals, increasing appeal and justifying a higher price point.
the suitable for any lifestyle. From doughnuts and muffins to cookies and biscuits,
durin g every time of day is a good time of day to indulge,
9
Covid-1
TIMES ARE CHANGING particularly during these uncertain times. By offering
Before the pandemic, mornings were the most a variety of classic and new flavours, operators will be
ic
pandem popular time of day for grab-and-go purchases, as
people travelled to work. Not only did consumers
able to appeal to creatures of habit and those looking
for something exciting and to try something different.
pick up something for breakfast, but often lunch and In response to the current lull in demand, many
an afternoon snack too. “Products that work well for businesses have survived hard times by offering
breakfast ranges vary from traditional toast and a hot delivery services throughout the day that fit in with
beverage, bacon or sausage sandwiches, to pastries more flexible working patterns.
and juices,” says Ballarini. “There are also opportunities As a lucrative market, estimated to reach £21.7bn
to sell products throughout the morning and afternoon by the end of this year (MCA Food to Go Conference
period including a range of cookies, muffins and cakes.” 2020), consumers are turning to indulgent and
Oohmagazine.co.uk | @OOHmagazine26
Grab and go
MISSION FOODS
operations director for Creative Foods Europe.
When it comes to dinner, beef burgers remain the
runaway leader in food to go with a 13.5% share of the
market, followed by fish and chips, with 6.3%, and pizza
at 6.2%. Pizza is a great grab-and-go option because
MISSION FOODS
it can be sold whole or by the slice for even greater
profits. Whether operators make their pizza from
scratch, use a mix, use frozen dough pucks or purchase
MISSION FOODS readymade products, they are ideal for those wanting a
filling bite to eat while en route somewhere. They offer
great profit margins and they are easy to eat on the go
too, making them a popular option with consumers.
“Caterers should not only look to add grab-and-go
lunch options to the menu, but breakfast, dinner and
snack options too,” says Steve Hemsil, sales director –
UK and Ireland – for Welbilt. “From deep-filled breakfast
burritos and pastries, right through to sandwiches,
soups, pasta pots and more, caterers can create
extensive and exciting grab-and-go menus.”
For operators stuck for ideas, the Merrychef Ready
Recipe tool, which is available via the Merrychef
Culinary web page, boasts a library of over 600
downloadable recipes that can be filtered by course,
providing out of home foodservice operators with
a handy resource of grab-and-go menu inspiration.
satisfying snacks more than ever, leading to a MEAT-FREE MOVEMENT
growing demand for variety. Ferrero Foodservice’s The meat-free market has boomed in the UK over the
independent research (Toluna / Ferrero November last few years, with the number of vegans quadrupling
2019), which focused on consumer grazing habits, between 2014 and 2019. Whether for ethical reasons
found that 79% of people are buying sweet snacks or dietary requirements, interest in vegan food options
on the go. “Classics such as pastries and muffins will has never been greater. In fact, according to the Vegan
always be best sellers, but introducing something Society, vegans and vegetarians are set to make up
different to on-the-go menus could drive profits even 25% of the population by 2025 and flexitarians just
further and open caterers up to a wider customer under 50%. “OOH outlets should ensure that their hot
base,” suggests Zareen Deboo, foodservice channel grab-and-go offer includes vegan options, as the trend
s such
operations manager for Ferrero UK and Ireland. for plant-based products continues to grow,” says
Classic es At lunchtime, sandwiches are a popular option with Lauder. “Recent events may well have accelerated the
tri
as pas
nearly 20% of consumers and baguettes with 7% (MCA trend. According to Mintel, a quarter of young British
HIM – Food to Go market report 2019). However, many millennials say that the coronavirus pandemic has
ffins
and mu be
consumers now prefer tortilla wraps or flatbreads made a vegan diet more appealing, while the June
ays
which are perceived to be healthier. These types of survey also revealed that a vegan diet was proving more
will alw rs breads are also popular with operators too, as they attractive to around 12% of Brits, rising to more than
lle
best se
are incredibly versatile and can be used to create 20% of Londoners, since the start of the pandemic.”
a diverse range of hand-held dishes. Consumers’ Vegan products, such as plant-based sausage
increased interest in health means breads with ancient rolls, are a great takeout option. There are plenty of
grains and seeds offering benefits are popular, so it’s readymade vegan options on the market that make
important to offer a range of quality bread and rolls catering for this demographic plain sailing. Just
for sandwiches to suit all tastes. “Those foodservice remember to cook them separately so you don’t
operators or retailers looking to add variety to their get them mixed up with their meaty counterparts.
sandwich offer, especially when it comes to fillings Condiments also play an integral role for many grab-
that are more difficult for consumers to make at home and-go options, so it’s important that outlets have
in small quantities, should consider marinated meats a range of good vegan options, from ketchup and
as sandwich fillings,” says Nigel Parkes, commercial mayonnaise to mustard and hot sauce.
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