FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
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FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 A FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about their social and environmental policies, practices and impact.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 01 CONTENTS 03 FOREWORD 34 Viewpoint: Mary Creagh MP, chair of the 04 FINDINGS-AT-A-GLANCE Environmental Audit Committee 05 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 08 WHY TRANSPARENCY? 35 FINAL SCORES: SECTION-BY-SECTION 09 Why greater transparency matters 36 Average scores across the sections in the fashion industry 37 1. Policy & Commitments 12 Case Studies: Transparency in Action 44 2. Governance 13 Viewpoint: Nazma Akter, trade unionist 49 3. Traceability 14 Viewpoint: Jenny Dewi, garment worker 55 Viewpoint: Abhishek Jani, Fairtrade India Project 15 Viewpoint: Tolly Dolly Posh, consumer, ethical blogger 56 4. Know, Show, Fix 16 What do we mean by transparency? 61 Viewpoint: Shafiq Hassan, Echotex 62 5. Spotlight Issues 19 ABOUT THE FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 72 Viewpoint: Jenny Holdcroft, IndustriALL 20 Why have we conducted this research? 73 Viewpoint: Hester Le Roux, CARE International UK 21 The methodology 74 Viewpoint: Kirsten Broode, Greenpeace 22 The weighting of the scores 23 About the methodology 75 WHAT SHOULD YOU DO WITH THIS INFORMATION? 24 Updates to the methodology 76 Citizens 25 How were the 200 brands selected? 77 Brands and Retailers 26 A-Z of brands 78 Governments and Policymakers 27 How is research conducted 79 Civil Society Groups, Trade Unions & Workers 27 About our research and engagement process 28 How does the scoring work? 80 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 82 ANNEX 1 Definitions and Abbreviations 29 THE FINAL SCORES 83 ANNEX 2 References 30 A rough guide to the scoring 84 Organisations for further research 31 The final scores 84 An important final note 32 Quick findings 85 About Fashion Revolution 33 Overall analysis The content of this publication can in no way be taken to reflect the views of any of the funders of Fashion Revolution. © Fashion Revolution CIC 2019. All rights reserved. This document is not to be copied or adapted without permission from Fashion Revolution CIC.
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FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 03 FOREWORD " There is no beauty without truth and there is no truth without transparency.” CARRY SOMERS FOUNDER AND GLOBAL OPERATIONS DIRECTOR FASHION REVOLUTION Leading up to International Women’s double by 2030. Although 72% of brands and why we track their progress through Day this year, many people asked brands publish policies on energy and carbon our annual Fashion Transparency Index. Beauty is truth, truth beauty. where their women’s empowerment emissions at the company level, and slogan T-shirts were made. Did they 48.5% publish supplier policies on this There truly is an ocean of truth lying John Keats declared that real beauty empower the women who made them? issue, just 55% of brands publish the undiscovered before us when it comes resides in truth and truth alone is Just 37.5% of the 200 brands reviewed annual carbon footprint in their own to the world of fashion, but there is a beautiful. The beauty of objects may this year, down from 40% of 150 brands facilities and only 19.5% publish this sea change taking place and we are change, so we should pay more reviewed last year, disclose that they are information for their supply chain. seeing consumers wading in and attention to the beauty at their core involved in capacity building projects asking, demanding, to know the truth than to outward appearances. Our in the supply chain focused on gender We recognise that it is not easy for behind their clothes. We have more perception of what we consider to be a equality or female empowerment, brands to become transparent - it’s an and more online transparency tools beautiful or desirable item of clothing and only 3 brands are publishing data uncomfortable process, but a necessary at our disposal to hold brands and can change not just with trends, time on the prevalence of gender-based one if we are to see change. Despite retailers to account. Even if they aren’t or the impact of use, but by knowing labour violations in supplier facilities. some progress over the past six years, disclosing this information themselves, the truth behind its manufacture. How the fashion industry still operates in sooner or later, the truth will come out. was it made and by whom? Knowing We are also starting to see the truth of an opaque manner and the lack of the truth can change our perception. our destruction of the natural world and information about where our clothes The fashion of the future is not about recognising the significant role played and accessories are made and who the pretty little things, the shoes and More than ever before, brands and by the fashion industry. It is one of the made them is a huge barrier to change. handbag and new party dress. It is retailers are being held to account and most polluting industries in the world: Human rights abuses, gender inequality about weaving truth and values into beginning to realise that their fashion global textile production emits 1.2 billion and environmental degradation remain our clothing. We love fashion. We statements need to be embodied in tonnes of greenhouse gases annually, rife and we know that exploitation thrives love beautiful clothes. But there is truth. We don't want beautifully written more than international flights and in hidden places. This is why Fashion no beauty without truth and there empty words of vision and commitment; maritime shipping combined, and our Revolution urges all brands and retailers is no truth without transparency. we want real, tangible information. clothing consumption is expected to to pursue full supply chain transparency
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 04 FINDINGS-AT-A-GLANCE Average score in each section POLICY & COMMITMENTS GOVERNANCE TRACEABILITY 5 HIGHEST SCORING BRANDS Number of brands publishing suppliers lists 48% 27% 12% Adidas 64% 2017 2018 2019 Reebok 64% KNOW, SHOW & FIX SPOTLIGHT ISSUES Patagonia 64% First-tier manufacturers Esprit 62% 14% 17% 32 H&M 61% 55 *out of 250 possible points 70 9% increase in average score amongst 98 brands reviewed since 2017 Processing facilities 14 5 BRANDS SCORING ZERO POINTS 27 Youngor 0 5 BIGGEST MOVERS 38 Jessica Simpson 0 (% CHANGE SINCE 2018) Mexx 0 Suppliers of raw materials Elie Tahari 0 Dior 22% 0 Tom Ford 0 Sainsbury's Tu Clothing 21% 1 Nike Converse, Jordan and Nike 21% 4% 10 increase in average New Balance 18% score amongst 150 brands Marc Jacobs 17% reviewed since 2018
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 05 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Sportswear and outdoor brands be responsible business partners to marked improvement from 2017 when by over 10% since last year, showing lead the way on transparency their suppliers? And considering no brands scored more than 50%. This significant efforts to be more women form the majority of the people clearly indicates that even leading transparent, whilst 20 brands (or 10% of This year’s Fashion Transparency Index working in the fashion industry from brands and retailers still have significant the brands reviewed) score above 50% includes 200 of the world’s biggest factory to shop floor, we are surprised to room for improvement when it comes to compared to 10 brands in 2018. fashion brands and retailers. The see brands saying very little about their sharing their social and environmental highest scoring brands this year are efforts to empower women and girls policies, practices and impacts with their 14.5% of brands score less than 5%, Adidas, Reebok and Patagonia, who and achieve gender equality customers and stakeholders. compared to 17% of brands last year, each score 64% of the 250 possible which shows that more brands are points. Esprit scoring 62% and H&M Leading fashion brands and The Fashion Transparency Index embarking on their journey towards scoring 61% are the following two retailers are making significant has been a useful tool for greater transparency. brands in the 61-70% range. efforts to be more transparent encouraging greater but there is still a long way to go transparency We have found that the UK Modern These brands are disclosing a wide Slavery Act, California Transparency in range of human rights and This is the first year that any brands Due to the increase in the number of Supply Chains Act and some of the environmental policies and and retailers will score over 60%, brands reviewed this year, the overall relevant French and EU legislation has commitments as well as information showing that leading brands are average score has not increased, but forced major brands to disclose at about how responsibility is governed taking steps to disclose more about amongst the 150 brands reviewed in least some information publicly. throughout the business, who their their social and environmental 2018 and again in 2019 there has been suppliers are and some data about the policies, practices and impacts. a 3.6% increase in the average score. Several fashion brands disclose outcomes and impacts of their supply chain information for the sustainability practices. The average score amongst the 200 Amongst the 98 brands reviewed in 2017, first time biggest fashion brands and retailers 2018 and again in 2019 there has been an While major brands are making reviewed this year is 21%. Whilst we are 8.9% increase in the average score since Chanel, s.Oliver, Dior, Desigual and significant steps towards supply chain seeing some leading brands begin to they were first reviewed. This progress, Sandro are publishing meaningful transparency, detailed information disclose more information about their coupled with the feedback we have social and environmental information about the outcomes and impacts of social and environmental policies, received directly from brands, suggests for the first time. Chanel increased their efforts is still lacking. We see very practices and impacts, there are still far that inclusion in the Fashion from 3% in 2018 to 10% this year. little information and data disclosed too many major brands lagging behind. Transparency Index has motivated Desigual increased 7%, Sandro and about the purchasing practices of these leading brands to be more transparent. s.Oliver by 9% and Dior by almost 22% leading brands and retailers, begging No major brands score above 70%. (nb. this may be a result of Dior being the question: what are brands doing to Although our research this year shows a 11 brands have increased their scores taken over by LVMH).
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 06 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 5 major fashion brands disclose environmental practices. For example, Many leading fashion brands disclosing the percentage of their nothing at all the average score amongst all 200 share some information about products that are made from brands in the Know, Show & Fix section is their strategies for addressing sustainable materials. Only 5 brands (2.5%) of the brands just 14% and in the Spotlight Issues environment impacts reviewed) are scoring zero points this section, where we do deep-dive 54% of brands are publishing goals on year compared to 9 brands (6%) last research into some of the most pressing The global apparel and footwear improving environmental impacts, but year. These are Eli Tahari, Jessica issues, brands score an average of 17%. industry accounts for 8% of the world’s only 40% publish goals on improving Simpson, Mexx, Tom Ford and Chinese greenhouse gas emissions, almost as human rights. menswear brand, Youngor. Another 10 Major fashion brands have made much as the total for the whole of brands are disclosing almost nothing significant progress on Europe. In a business-as-usual Furthermore, for all the media scrutiny (less than 2%), including Longchamp, publishing supplier lists scenario, fashion’s climate impact is surrounding leading brands burning Max Mara, New Yorker and several others. expected to increase 49% by 2030 - unsold stock over the past year, we 70 out of the 200 major fashion brands equal to today’s total annual greenhouse were surprised to see that only 26.5% Please note we are not evaluating are publishing a list of their first-tier gas emissions in the United States, of brands describe what they are doing brands' ethical or sustainability manufacturers, and 38 brands are according to Quantis. Considering the to reduce pre-consumer surplus/ performance but rather how much disclosing their processing facilities, need to act urgently on climate change waste (e.g. off-cuts, unsold and information they disclose publicly about where ginning and spinning, wet and looking at what the major brands are defective stock, production samples, their human rights and environmental processing, embroidering, printing, disclosing about their efforts to reduce 23.5% of brands offer their customers policies, practices and impacts. finishing, dyeing and laundering environmental impacts, we wonder if in-store or online recycling schemes, typically takes place. they are doing enough? and just 26% explain how they’re More information shared about investing in circular solutions to reduce fashion brands' policies than We have seen an increase in average 55% out of the 200 brands are textile waste. their practices and impacts scores in the Traceability section by publishing the annual carbon footprint over 7% amongst the fashion brands in the company's own sites, although Considering the fashion industry As we have seen in previous years, reviewed since 2017. only 19.5% disclose carbon emissions employs millions of women, brands continue to publish the most in the supply chain – where over 50% brands ought to share far more information about their policies and 10 brands (5%) are disclosing some of of the industry’s emissions occur, information about how they are commitments, with an average score of the facilities or farms supplying their according to Quantis. addressing gender equality 48% in that section of the methodology, fibres such as viscose, cotton and while they disclose significantly less wool. This is a significant increase from Meanwhile, whilst 43% of brands are Women form the majority of the people information about the outcomes and 2018 where only one brand disclosed publishing a sustainable materials working in the fashion industry from impacts of their social and this information and no brands shared strategy or roadmap, only 29% are factory to shop floor. Around 70-80% of this information in 2016 or 2017.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 07 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY the world’s millions of garment terms — an issue we repeatedly have in accelerating climate change, and By the 2020 edition of this Index, we workers are female, yet major brands been told is a pain point for suppliers, certainly they are responsible for many hope to see even more major brands don’t seem to be doing all that much to one that can impact their ability to of the human rights abuses that persist and retailers disclosing their suppliers. address gender inequality and provide regular and fairly paid in global supply chains. We want to see brands publishing empower women across the fashion employment to workers. 18 (9%) brands more detailed information about the value chain. disclose a formal process for gathering Major fashion brands have the moral outcomes of their efforts to improve supplier feedback on the company's imperative and ability to effect change human rights and environmental Just over one third of brands support purchasing practices. on a global scale for large numbers of sustainability. And finally, we will be women’s empowerment projects for people and that puts them in a really encouraging major brands to share far garment workers. However, only 3 Given that major brands are expecting powerful position. Having said that more information about their brands (1.5%) publish data on the trust and transparency from suppliers, we’re not going to be able to maintain purchasing practices, their actions to prevalence of gender-based violations they too should share more current levels of production and reduce waste and their efforts to in the supplier facilities. information publicly about their own consumption even if systems are achieve gender equality for women commitments and efforts to be designed to be much more restorative. across the industry. 63% of brands publish policies on responsible business partners. Simply put, fashion brands will need to equal pay but only 33.5% publish the innovate as well as use fewer annual gender pay gap within the How we plan to take action on resources, and help their customers to company. these findings consume less, take better care of their clothes and use them longer. The Major brands are disclosing The Fashion Transparency Index has current model isn’t working for the shockingly little information been a useful tool for opening up environment, nor for the vast number about their purchasing practices conversations with the world’s largest of people working for poverty-level fashion brands and retailers about wages in the supply chain. This can Only 6 (3%) of the 200 brands disclose what they can do to be more change and leading fashion brands a method for isolating and calculating transparent. We believe this is the first have an important role to play. labour costs in their price negotiation step in holding these big brands to process with suppliers. 13 (6.5%) account for the human rights and We will continue to use the Index to brands disclose a policy to pay environmental impacts of their measure brands’ progress towards suppliers within a maximum of 60 business practices. transparency and help push them days. Only 4 brands publish the harder and faster towards taking on percentage of supplier payments In many ways, the world’s major more responsibility for their policies, made on time and according to agreed fashion brands have played a huge part practices and impacts.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 09 WHY TRANSPARENCY MATTERS IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY Lack of transparency costs lives Fragmented supply chains obscure accountability When Rana Plaza collapsed six years ago in Bangladesh, killing The vast majority of today’s fashion and injuring thousands of garment brands and retailers do not own their workers, people had to dig through manufacturing and supplier facilities, the rubble looking for clothing making it challenging to monitor or control working conditions and labels in order to figure out which environmental impacts across the brands were producing clothes in highly globalised supply chain. This one of the five garment factories can sometimes be used as an excuse operating in the building. for brands to evade responsibility for how their products are made. In some cases, it took weeks for brands and retailers to determine Brands and retailers may work with why their labels were found amongst hundreds or even thousands of the ruins and what sort of purchasing factories at any given time – and agreements they had with those that is just the suppliers that cut, suppliers. Many clothing brands sew and assemble our garments. [TOP] 'Dhaka Savar sourcing from the factories inside Rana There are many facilities further Building Collapse' by rijans Plaza didn’t know their products were down the chain that weave, dye via Flickr CC being made there. and finish materials and farms that [Bottom] 'Bangladeshi grow fibres used in our clothing. garment workers Unfortunately, factory fires and block a road dur- ing a demonstra- accidents, poor working conditions, During the manufacturing process tion to demand higher wages in dangerous pollution and exploitation of our clothes pass through many pairs Dhaka by RTE garment workers remains rampant six of hands before they ever reach the via https://www. rte.ie/news/ years after Rana Plaza. shop floor or, increasingly, the screens world/2019/0109 /1022163-cloth- ing-workers- of our phones and computers. strike-in-bang- ladesh/
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 A brand might place an order with one Progress is happening but supplier, who in turn subcontracts it is still difficult to know the work to another facility if they #whomademyclothes need to meet a short deadline or require a special process to be done. Of course, much has changed since This happens regularly across the Rana Plaza, especially in Bangladesh. industry and makes it extremely Many factories have been upgraded, difficult to monitor human rights and and with all the attention on Bangladesh environmental impacts. Unauthorised since then, some very real and positive subcontracting causes workers to progress has been made towards become effectively invisible in the improving working conditions. supply chain, and this is where the highest risk of human rights violations However, not enough has changed and environmental degradation tends in global fashion supply chains and to occur. But these subcontracted business practices on the whole across facilities are not the only places where the industry are still very secretive. It poor conditions persist - sometimes is extremely challenging, if not almost it’s right under our noses in factories impossible, for a consumer to find out and communities close to home too. where their clothes have been made, by whom and under what conditions Transparency as the first — which means it is hugely difficult to step towards change know what real-world impacts, both positive and negative, our clothing Right after the Rana Plaza factory purchases are having on people’s collapse happened, it became very lives and on the environment. clear to us that the fashion industry needed urgent, transformative change, This is why we are still calling for a and that the first vital step towards this revolution of the fashion industry. change required far greater visibility Never again should a tragedy like Rana and transparency of the people Plaza happen, yet factory fires, safety working in supply chains, the business accidents and faulty buildings continue relationships at play across supply to harm people in the places where chains and information about working our clothes are made. The women who conditions and environmental impacts. make our clothes continue to face
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 11 "In our survey of over regular and systemic discrimination Over 173,000 posts using and sexual abuse. Pollution and waste our hashtags, including 5,000 consumers created as a result of the way our #whomademyclothes, generating clothes are produced and consumed 720 million impressions during April across Europe, continues to damage our ecosystems. 2018 alone – an increase of 35% on the previous year. People want to know 80% said that #whomademyclothes Transparency helps facilitate remediation of human rights fashion brands Consumers don’t want to buy clothes made by people working in danger, and environmental abuses should disclose exploited, paid poverty-level wages, in polluted environments but there is simply As Jenny Holdcroft, the Assistant General Secretary of IndustriALL their manufacturers.” not enough information available about the clothes we wear. Fashion Revolution Global Union, explained in previous editions, “knowing the names of wants to change that. This is why we are major buyers from factories gives pushing for more transparency from the workers and their unions a stronger FASHION REVOLUTION & IPSOS MORI fashion industry, and the annual Fashion leverage, crucial for a timely NOVEMBER 2018 Transparency Index is one of the tools solution when resolving conflicts, that helps us do this. whether it be refusal to recognise the union, or unlawful sackings When we are equipped with more — and for demanding their rights. It also better quality, credible — information provides the possibility to create about the human and environmental a link from the worker back to the impacts of the clothes we buy, we are customer and possibly media to able to make more informed shopping bring attention to their issues.” choices. As a result, transparency builds trust in the brands we buy. Greater transparency can help brands engage and collaborate with People are increasingly asking for greater trade unions and civil society groups transparency from the fashion industry. to identify and remedy problems In 2018, more than 3.25 million people more quickly, if the relevant across the world participated in Fashion information is available and easy to Revolution through events, posting on find. Transparency also helps others social media, viewing our videos or discover best practice examples and downloading resources from our website. positive stories from the supply chain that can be highlighted, shared and potentially replicated elsewhere.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 12 CASE STUDIES: TRANSPARENCY IN ACTION [LEFT] PHOTOGRAPHY: INDUSTRIALL - MYANMAR - workers in solidarity in front of the factory [RIGHT] PHOTOGRAPHY @ INDUSTRIALL - Garment workers in Turkey Real-life example of how Real-life example of when transparency helps workers the lack of transparency is a problem for workers MYANMAR these brands but only received a TURKEY response from one brand – stating In Myanmar, six workers were Because they had access to these that they are members of the Business terminated after forming a trade supplier lists, the trade union In Turkey, there has been a recent Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI, now union. Using clothing labels from was able to reach a negotiated case in which trade union leaders re-branded to amfori) and that their inside the factory, IndustriALL trade settlement with the supplier to were illegally terminated for audit reports did not reveal any labour union members we were able bring back the union leaders and exercising their rights of freedom rights violation in the factory. In such to check the online supplier lists move towards recognition of the of association. In this case, workers cases, the workers can only use the disclosed by brands for whose labels union at the factory level. reported which brands they were national court system for potential they had found. This enabled the making clothes for, but this time remedy to their situation. This can take union members to reach out and none of the brands were publicly up to two years. The unions continue build a coalition of brands, increasing disclosing their supplier list, to follow up through the auditor, but it their leverage within this large making it very difficult to hold them is an added layer that slows down the multinational supplier, to ensure accountable. The Turkish union and possibility of finding an adequate and that the workers’ rights were upheld. IndustriALL attempted to contact timely resolution.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 13 " Transparency is needed by every major multinational PHOTOGRAPHY © AWAJ FOUNDATION www.awajfoundation.org fashion brand and retailer in order to help workers understand what the brands whose clothes they are making are doing to uphold workers' rights. To me, transparency also means that brands are willing to be held accountable for their business practices. My organisation uses the information disclosed by major fashion brands in various ways. For example, we share information with workers so they can negotiate for better working conditions and get their peers and managers involved too. We also use transparency information to understand good practices that brands are doing. We would like to see more brands and retailers share information that is helpful to trade unions and garment workers such as supplier lists, audit reports and activities designed to advance freedom of association and social dialogue." NAZMA AKTER BANGLAHDESI TRADE UNIONIST AND FOUNDER OF THE AWAJ FOUNDATION
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 14 VIEWPOINT: GARMENT WORKERS LIKE ME DESERVE MORE TRANSPARENCY FROM BRANDS AND RETAILERS There is a long history of non- when the law is on the employer’s workers and their company, such as a transparency in the garment factories side. Currently the California Garment complaint hotline. The brands should in Los Angeles. When employers hire Bill AB633 doesn’t hold the brands send independent monitors to check workers, they want to know about our accountable for wage theft. This is why the conditions of the factories. Then experience and skills, but we rarely we must take action and go directly they should reward the manufacturers get to ask them the same kind of after brands like Ross to demand justice. who are treating their workers well to questions. Upon hiring, workers often incentivize continued compliance. A lot of our information has to come do not know if we are going to be paid from workers on the factory floor. The most difficult information to obtain a minimum wage, or how long we will Workers learn to identify brands and is about how low the wages really are, get to work in the factory. There is also labels, or pay attention to finishing hiring and pay rate discrimination, and no fixed schedule. If the boss says they boxes to understand where the health and safety conditions in the want the production done today, we merchandise is going. Sometimes factories. The truth is that the “piece JENNY DEWI have to finish it. GARMENT WORKER CENTER it is through personal conversations rate” in the garment industry has barely We are expected to work like machines, where we learn how often the product changed in more than two decades, just carry out the operations without comes to the factory, how much the so most of us make less than the I have been a garment worker since manufacturers are paying per piece. minimum wage. asking any questions. The garment 1999, and a member of the Garment Our pay is often in cash or cashier’s companies don’t let us know which Worker Center for six years. I joined check with no receipt, so we must I want Fashion Revolution to expose brand, or retailers we are working for. the GWC because their mission is to document the pay ourselves. the problems prevalent in the fashion Often we don’t even know the name of organize Los Angeles workers to change industry so that customers, the public, the boss, or the name of the company. the local industry for the better, and Brands and retailers should disclose and the government will demand real Even when workers file cases at the emphasize the importance of fashion the wages workers are paid to produce changes from retailers and brands. Over Labor Commission, we must do our brand accountability. Transparency is at clothing. Currently, the way things are 45,000 garment workers in Los Angeles own investigations in order to get this the heart of brand accountability, and structured, brands and retailers do not are working in a sweatshop industry. information. would be helpful for garment workers have to know or care about the workers Every sector of the industry needs to in Los Angeles and across the globe. who make their clothes. take part in ending the exploitation, and For instance, when manufacturers We also need more local, national, and making the working conditions better that produced for Ross received the international policies that ensure such Brands should demand information for garment workers in Los Angeles and judgment of wage theft, they closed transparency is enforced in order to from the factory floor, and provide across the globe. down their factories, and now we stop sweatshop labor. a line of communication between can’t even find them. This is worsened
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 15 VIEWPOINT: CONSUMERS LIKE ME WANT BRANDS TO BE OPEN AND HONEST TOLLY DOLLY POSH ETHICAL FASHION BLOGGER TOLLYDOLLYPOSHFASHION.COM Transparency to me means the board from the fabrics to the future but it should also be part of factories being used. the customer service experience. The having complete faith and positive reaction transparency brings trust in how a business works. A brand being honest about where should be an incentive for companies they could be doing better or what they to release more data about how they It's about a company facing issues are trying improve brings me more work and with who. head-on and creating open and comfort than a brand that decides to honest dialogue around their practices, stay quiet or only answer questions whether they are in the early stages of creating a more ethical and sustainable when they're asked. Information should be clearly accessible to “A brand being honest about supply chain, or whether they've almost hit the nail on the head. consumers and not hidden under a where they could be doing sub-menu or only available via email. I will automatically grow weary and better or what they are For me, when a brand flies the 'ethical trying improve brings me suspicious if information about ethics fashion flag' proudly, it gives me a lot and sustainability efforts are difficult of confidence as a consumer to spend my money with them and put forward to find or if a company does not respond quickly when that information more comfort than a brand a vote for the sort of fashion industry I'd like to see. I find official credentials is requested. that decides to stay quiet or and certifications extremely valuable as they show a clear commitment to Supplying this information shouldn't only answer questions when just be a way of pushing the industry different efforts, and this goes across towards a more fair and sustainable they're asked.”
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 16 WHAT DO WE MEAN BY TRANSPARENCY? transparency For Fashion Revolution, Transparency can enable greater accountability transparency means credible, comprehensive and comparable Transparency is not just sharing the public disclosure of data and good stories nor disclosing only accountability information about fashion’s supply compliant, well-performing suppliers chains, business practices and — it’s about presenting the full picture, the impacts of these practices on both good and not-so-good. workers, communities and the This sort of transparency requires environment. brands and retailers to know exactly who makes the products they sell When we talk about greater – from who stitched them right transparency, we mean public through to who dyed the fabric and disclosure of sourcing relationships who farmed the fibre. And crucially, change and of companies’ social and this requires brands to trace the environmental policies and practices, journey of their products right down goals and targets, governance, to the raw material level. It requires performance and progress. that brands monitor and measure their outcomes and impacts, not just share their values and policies. We ask brands to share information publicly so that we can collectively scrutinise all tiers of the supply chain, identify the best and worst practices and hold brands to account.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 17 17 Transparency is not selective disclosure to third parties. We Transparency is a tool for change, not the goal itself T R A N S PA R E N C Y want to see public disclosure Transparency by itself will not solve Some brands opt to disclose supply the industry’s problems, but it chain information to selected multi- provides an important window into stakeholder groups or trade unions the conditions in which our clothes rather than publicly, and have done are being made. What we each do so for many years in order to manage with the information being disclosed their risks and solve issues. However, by big brands and retailers is most we feel this is not enough. Health and important of all. It is with access to safety incidents, widespread abuses information that we hold brands and FA I R T R A D E and even deaths are still happening retailers, governments and suppliers and potentially can be solved faster if to account. We see transparency W E L L- B E I N G information is more freely available. as the first step towards wider systemic change for a safer, fairer L I V I N G WAG E S Being transparent does not and cleaner global fashion industry. necessarily mean acting EMPOWERMENT ethically and sustainably GENDER EQUALITY We want to stress that transparency is not to be conflated with brands BUSINESS ACCOUNTABILITY behaving ethically and sustainably. This report is not looking at which S U S TA I N A B L E L I V E L I H O O D S brands are more environmentally friendly or conducting business “None of the main GOOD WORKING CONDITIONS more ethically than others. A brand issues which E N V I R O N M E N TA L S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y may publish a considerable amount of information and data about their humanity is facing policies, practices and impacts and will be resolved still have poor working conditions and without access to environmental degradation happening in their supply chains. Conversely, information." brands may be doing all sorts of good A FAIRER, SAFER, CLEANER things behind-the-scenes but don’t FASHION INDUSTRY talk about them publicly. It’s a shame CHRISTOPER DELOIRE not to share publicly, as other brands SECRETARY GENERAL, could have much to learn from them. REPORTERS WITHOUT BORDERS, 2018
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 18 TO ACHIEVE SYSTEMIC CHANGE WE RECOGNISE 4 IMPORTANT THINGS: i It is a process Inclusivity is key More information is needed Turn data into action It is going to be a long journey towards Millions of workers are employed Many people continue to shop from Transparency isn’t just for transparency’s a different industry model, requiring through the supply chains of these big corporate brands, but want more sake. The data and information disclosed many incremental but necessary steps, big brands, and we must be careful tools to understand how products are by companies needs to be accessible to turn the tide of overconsumption to ensure that the future of the made, where they are made, by whom and detailed enough to take action upon. and unsustainable business models. fashion industry is able to provide and under what conditions. This report What we do with publicly available supply We believe the first step is greater decent work, sustainable livelihoods, is one tool that helps consumers and chain information, how we use it to drive transparency. This will entail consumers, hope and dignity for everyone other stakeholders better understand positive change, is what will count most. brands and retailers, governments and employed in it, from farm to retail. what major brands are doing. citizens each taking action. Fashion Revolution is engaging with all of these groups to catalyse positive change.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 19 ABOUT THE FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 20 WHY HAVE WE CONDUCTED THIS RESEARCH? Fashion Revolution is calling By conducting this research, we want to Furthermore, we wanted to create: “We developed help people know a bit more about the for greater transparency brands and retailers they buy products • comparable tool that helps A the Fashion throughout the fashion industry from. Many of the brands included in the stakeholders better understand Transparency Index and our #whomademyclothes Fashion Transparency Index are selling how much information major as a tool to scrutinise special ‘sustainable’ collections but brands and retailers are disclosing; social media campaign has what about the rest of their products? what major inspired millions of people Where are their clothes made, by • A tool to incentivise big brands fashion brands to take action since 2013. whom and under what conditions? and retailers to disclose more disclose about their credible, comparable and detailed What information can we expect to find information year-on-year by human rights and To build on this question, we wanted to create a tool that would help about big brands’ human rights and utilising the competitive nature environmental people better understand what environmental policies and practices? of business performance; policies, practices What can we find out about the effects transparency looks like in practice, of their business practices on the people • An ongoing exercise that helps and impacts." particularly when it comes to big the Fashion Revolution movement fashion brands and retailers. who work in their supply chains? These are some of questions that the Fashion shape its own understanding Transparency Index research considers. of what brands share about SARAH DITTY their suppliers and social and POLICY DIRECTOR, environmental impacts across the FASHION REVOLUTION value chain; what transparency entails and what transparency demands we may ask in future from major brands and retailers.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 21 THE The Fashion Transparency Index uses a ratings methodology to benchmark brands’ public disclosure across five key areas, METHODOLOGY including: policy and commitments, governance, supply chain traceability, supplier assessment and remediation, and new 'spotlight issues' covering gender equality, decent work, climate action and responsible consumption and production. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. POLICY & GOVERNANCE TRACEABILITY KNOW, SHOW & FIX SPOTLIGHT ISSUES COMMITMENTS - What are the brand’s social — Is there board level - Does the brand publish a — How does the brand assess — What is the brand doing to and environmental policies? responsibility for list of its suppliers, the implementation of its address gender equality the company’s social and from manufacturing to raw supplier policies? and female empowerment? — How is the brand putting its environmental impacts? material level? policies into practice? — How does the brand — What is the brand doing to — Can a relevant department or — If so, how much detail fix problems when found in support Freedom of — How does the brand decide individual be easily contacted do they share? its supplier facilities? Association and the which issues to prioritise? with questions? payment of living wages? — Does the brand disclose — What are the brand’s future — How does the brand link assessment findings? — What is the brand doing to goals for improving its human rights and tackle waste and recycling, impacts? — How can workers report environmental issues to sustainable production and grievances? its employee and supplier’s climate change? performance?
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 22 WEIGHTING OF The methodology focuses exclusively on public disclosure of supply Please be aware that when brands score zero on an individual indicator, THE SCORES chain information. Therefore, the it doesn’t necessarily mean anything weighting of the scores is intended bad. It just means they’re not to emphasise increasing levels of disclosing their efforts publicly. detailed disclosure, especially when it comes to publishing supplier lists and the results of supplier assessments. We are rewarding granularity. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. POLICY & GOVERNANCE TRACEABILITY KNOW, SHOW & FIX SPOTLIGHT ISSUES COMMITMENTS TOTAL POSSIBLE POINTS (250) 49 12 85 70 34 WEIGHTING (%) 19.5% 4.5% 34% 28% 14%
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 23 ABOUT THE METHODOLOGY The first iteration of the methodology The methodology has been designed • Dr Alessandra Mezzadri, We recognise that the methodology was created by Ethical Consumer by the Fashion Revolution team, led by SOAS, University of London is not perfect and can always in 2016 with input from Fashion Fashion Revolution’s Policy Director, be improved. We welcome any Revolution. For 2017, Fashion Revolution Sarah Ditty, with consultative input • Joe Sutcliffe, Advisor - Dignified feedback on how to make it better: took the lead on the project’s and feedback from a committee of Work, CARE International transparency@fashionrevolution.org development and considerably revised pro bono industry experts, including: • Heather Webb, Ethical Consumer the methodology. We spent four months consulting a diverse group • Dr Mark Anner, Director of And several others experts who wished For further detail of the exact of more than 20 industry experts Centre for Global Workers’ Rights to remain anonymous at this time. methodology, download the on this revision process. The new at Penn State University 2019 brand questionnaire methodology focuses exclusively The methodology is based on template here. on public disclosure of supply chain • Neil Brown, Alliance existing international standards information, and we changed the Trust Investments and benchmarks including: UN weighting of the scores to emphasise • Professor Ian Cook, Sustainable Development Goals, increasing levels of detailed University of Exeter UN Guiding Principles, OECD Due disclosure, especially in regards to Diligence Guidelines, Ethical Trading disclosing supplier information. • Orsola de Castro, co- Initiative Base Code, and Fair Labor founder of Fashion Revolution Association’s Freedom of Association We have updated the methodology and waste expert guidelines. It has also been developed again in 2019, making small changes to align as much as possible with other for clarity, tweaking a few indicators • Subindhu Garkhel, industry benchmarks and relevant to make it more ambitious and Fairtrade Foundation initiatives including the Transparency selecting new Spotlight Issues. • Jenny Holdcroft, IndustriALL Pledge, Corporate Human Rights Benchmark and Know The Chain. There are 202 indicators in the • Kate Larsen, SupplyESChange 2019 Fashion Transparency Initiative Index methodology.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 24 UPDATES TO THE METHODOLOGY Our annual revision process Each year we select new Spotlight Spotlight Issues selected for 2019 How this affects the scoring year- Issues in section 5, which are selected on-year Each year our policy and research through consultation with the wider This year we have observed many team reviews every methodology Fashion Revolution team and through companies aligning their goals Because changes are made to the indicator for clarity and makes our research into the latest industry and strategies with the Sustainable methodology each year, this may have amendments where we feel the developments. We also seek input from Development Goals, so we have chosen an impact on the year-on-year direct wording could be clearer. We also our pro bono consultation committee. 4 out of the 17 goals that are particularly comparability of the data results. This consider the wider methodology The aim is to choose a selection of relevant to the global fashion industry is why we would like to emphasise in the context of recent industry the most pressing challenges facing as this year’s Spotlight Issues: focusing on the range in which brands developments, with special attention the sector for deeper investigation. score rather than their individual to any new laws and policies, reporting • SDG 5: Gender equality scores. The ranges reveal patterns of standards and emerging trends. • SDG 8: Decent work disclosure and trends in transparency We make amendments to relevant rather than precise measurements. indicators where we feel they might • SDG 12: Responsible better align to these recent industry consumption and production developments and to ensure the Index • SDG 13: Climate action remains a driver of best practice. Within these 4 goals, we have honed Sections 1 to 4 of the methodology in on issues that our team and have remained largely the same advisors have identified as some of from 2017 to 2019, with minor the sector’s most urgent challenges, amendments to a handful of indicators such as gender-based violence at for clarity and alignment. For any work, the gender pay gap, freedom of changes to existing indicators or association, living wages, purchasing any proposed additional indicators practices, textile waste and recycling, throughout the questionnaire, we circularity and climate footprint. gather feedback from our pro bono consultation committee advisors.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 25 HOW WERE THE 200 BRANDS H OW M A N Y B R A N D S SELECTED? PA R T I C I PAT E D T H I S Y E A R ? 52% 46% did not respond of brands completed and returned a Brands have been chosen on the We have deliberately listed brands questionnaire basis of annual turnover representing in our report rather than the parent over US$500 million and crossing company because consumers will a spread of market segments be most familiar with brand names. including high street, luxury, premium, sportswear, accessories, footwear 98 out of the 200 brands and retailers and denim from across Europe, North reviewed this year were included in the America, South America and Asia. 2017 and 2018 report. A further 52 brands were reviewed in 2018 and again this We relied on publicly available year, for a total of 150 brands. There are financial information to select brands 50 new brands included in the report and retailers. Some companies are this year, for a total of 200 brands. In privately held and do not publish 2020, we intend to expand the number financial records, including turnover, of brands and retailers reviewed to 250. which means we may not have found them in our research. Just a quick note: we often use the term 'brands' as short hand Where brands are part of a parent for both brands and retailers. company with annual turnover over US$500 million, we have selected the brand or brands 2% that appear to make up the most declined the opportunity significant part of their business. to complete the questionnaire * In general, the scores for brands that are part of a parent company apply to all of the subsidiaries in the parent company, not just the brands included in this report. There are some exceptions: for example, George at ASDA and Walmart; Kering Group and LVMH.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019 26 A-Z OF BRANDS = participated in brand questionarire Abercrombie & Fitch Cole Haan Hudson's Bay (HBC) Mexx Speedo (Pentland Group) Adidas (Adidas Group) Columbia Sportswear Hugo Boss Michael Kors (Capri Holdings) Sports Direct Aeropostale Converse (Nike, Inc.) Intimissimi (Calzedonia Holding S.p.A.) Miu Miu (Prada Group) Steve Madden ALDI Nord (ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG) Cortefiel (Tendam) Ito-Yokado (SEVEN&I HLDGS.) Mizuno Stradivarius (Inditex) ALDI SOUTH (ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG) Costco - Kirkland Signature J.Crew Moncler Superdry (SuperGroup plc.) ALDO (The Aldo Group Inc.) Debenhams Jack & Jones (BESTSELLER) Monoprix (Casino Group) Takko Amazon Decathlon (Association Familiale Mulliez) JCPenney Monsoon Target American Eagle (American Eagle Outfitters, Inc.) Desigual JD Sports (Pentland Group) MRP (Mr Price Group Limited) Tchibo ANTA (ANTA International) Diane Von Furstenberg Jessica Simpson (Sequentional Brands Group) Muji (Ryohin Keikaku Group) Ted Baker Anthropologie (URBN) Dick's Sporting Goods Joe Fresh (Loblaws Inc.) Neiman Marcus Tesco - F&F Armani (Giorgio Armani S.p.A) Diesel (OTB Group) John Lewis New Balance Tezenis (Calzedonia Holding S.p.A.) ASICS Dillards Jordan (Nike, Inc.) New Look (Brait) The North Face (VF Corporation) ASOS Dior (LVMH) Kate Spade (Tapestry, Inc.) New York & Company (RTW Retailwinds, Inc.) Timberland (VF Corporation) Banana Republic (Gap Inc.) Dolce & Gabbana KiK NewYorker TJ Maxx (TJX Companies Inc.) Barneys New York Dressmann (VARNER) Kmart - Attention (Sears Holdings) Next Tod's BCBGMAXAZRIA (Marquee Brands) DSW (Designer Brands) Kohl's Nike (Nike, Inc.) Tom Ford Beanpole (Samsung C&T Fashion Group) Eddie Bauer (Golden Gate Capital) K-Way (BasicNet) Nine West Tom Tailor Bershka (Inditex) El Corte Inglés Lacoste (Maus Frères) Nordstrom Tommy Bahama (Oxford Industries) Bloomingdale's (Macy's Inc.) Elie Tahari Lands' End (Sears Holdings) Old Navy (Gap Inc.) Tommy Hilfiger (PVH) Bonprix (Otto Group) Ermenegildo Zegna Levi Strauss & Co OVS Topshop (Arcadia Group) boohoo Esprit Lidl Patagonia TOPVALU COLLECTION (AEON) Bottega Veneta (Kering) Express Lindex (Stockmann) Pimkie Tory Burch Brooks Brothers Falabella (S.A.C.I.Falabella) Li-Ning Prada (Prada Group) Triumph Brunello Cucinelli Famous Footwear (Caleres) Liverpool (El Puerto de Liverpool) Primark (Associated British Foods) UGG (Deckers) Buckle Fanatics (Kynetic) LL Bean Prisma (S Group) Under Armour Burberry Fendi (LVMH) LOFT (Ann Inc.) Pull&Bear (Inditex) Uniqlo (Fast Retailing) Burlington Foot Locker Longchamp Puma United Colors of Benetton C&A Forever 21 Louis Vuitton (LVMH) Ralph Lauren Urban Oufitters (URBN) Calvin Klein (PVH) Fossil (Fossil Group, Inc.) Lululemon Reebok (Adidas Group) Valentino Calzedonia (Calzedonia Holding S.p.A.) Furla Macy's (Macy's Inc.) REVOLVe Van Heusen (PVH) Carolina Herrera (Puig) Gap (Gap Inc.) Mammut (Conzzeta) River Island Vans (VF Corporation) CAROLL (Vivarte) George at Asda (Walmart) Mango Ross Dress for Less Vero Moda (BESTSELLER) Carrefour - TEX Gildan Marc Jacobs (LVMH) Russell Athletic (Fruit of the Loom) Versace (Capri Holdings) CELINE (LVMH) G-Star RAW Marks & Spencer s.Oliver Very (Shop Direct) Champion (Hanesbrands Inc.) Gucci (Kering) Marni (OTB Group) Sainsbury's - Tu Clothing Victoria's Secret (L Brands) Chanel GUESS Massimo Dutti (Inditex) SAINT LAURENT (Kering) Walmart Chico's H&M Matalan Saks Fifth Avenue (HBC) Wrangler (VF Corporation) Claire's (Claire's Inc.) Hanes (Hanesbrands Inc.) Max Mara (MaxMaraFashionGroup) Salvatore Ferragamo Youngor (Youngor Group Company Limited) Clarks (C&J Clark International Limited) Heilan Home (Helian Group Co.) Merrell (Wolverine World Wide) Sandro (SMCP) Zalando COACH (Tapestry, Inc.) Hermès Metersbonwe Skechers Zara (Inditex)
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