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FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019             A

FASHION
INDEX
2019 EDITION
A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and
retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about
their social and environmental policies, practices and impact.
FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                               01

CONTENTS
03      FOREWORD                                                                       34     Viewpoint: Mary Creagh MP, chair of the
04      FINDINGS-AT-A-GLANCE                                                                  Environmental Audit Committee
05      EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
08      WHY TRANSPARENCY?                                                              35     FINAL SCORES: SECTION-BY-SECTION
09      Why greater transparency matters                                               36     Average scores across the sections
        in the fashion industry                                                        37     1. Policy & Commitments
12      Case Studies: Transparency in Action                                           44     2. Governance
13      Viewpoint: Nazma Akter, trade unionist                                         49     3. Traceability
14      Viewpoint: Jenny Dewi, garment worker                                          55     Viewpoint: Abhishek Jani, Fairtrade India Project
15      Viewpoint: Tolly Dolly Posh, consumer, ethical blogger                         56     4. Know, Show, Fix
16      What do we mean by transparency?                                               61     Viewpoint: Shafiq Hassan, Echotex
                                                                                       62     5. Spotlight Issues
19      ABOUT THE FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX                                           72     Viewpoint: Jenny Holdcroft, IndustriALL
20      Why have we conducted this research?                                           73     Viewpoint: Hester Le Roux, CARE International UK
21      The methodology                                                                74     Viewpoint: Kirsten Broode, Greenpeace
22      The weighting of the scores
23      About the methodology                                                          75     WHAT SHOULD YOU DO WITH THIS INFORMATION?
24      Updates to the methodology                                                     76     Citizens
25      How were the 200 brands selected?                                              77     Brands and Retailers
26      A-Z of brands                                                                  78     Governments and Policymakers
27      How is research conducted                                                      79     Civil Society Groups, Trade Unions & Workers
27      About our research and engagement process
28      How does the scoring work?                                                     80     ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
                                                                                       82     ANNEX 1 Definitions and Abbreviations
29      THE FINAL SCORES                                                               83     ANNEX 2 References
30      A rough guide to the scoring                                                   84     Organisations for further research
31      The final scores                                                               84     An important final note
32      Quick findings                                                                 85     About Fashion Revolution
33      Overall analysis

The content of this publication can in no way be taken to reflect the views of any of the funders of Fashion Revolution.
© Fashion Revolution CIC 2019. All rights reserved. This document is not to be copied or adapted without permission from Fashion Revolution CIC.
FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                                                                                                              02

Disclaimer                                                                                                                             Attribution                                                    Licences – Creative Commons
The Fashion Transparency Index is made available on               While the material contained in this Index has been prepared         This work is owned by Fashion Revolution CIC (Company          The Fashion Transparency Index is licensed under a Creative
the express request that it will be used only for general         in good faith, neither Fashion Revolution CIC nor any of             number: 8988812) and has been written by Sarah Ditty, Policy   Commons Attribution Non Commercial No Derivatives 4.0
information purposes. Readers are encouraged to form their        its partners, agents, representatives, advisers, affiliates,         Director at Fashion Revolution CIC.                            International Licence. It is not a Free Culture Licence. Please
own views and opinions on each of the brands mentioned            directors, officers or employees accept any responsibility for                                                                      see the link for more information:
in this Index. All content in the Fashion Transparency Index is   or make any representations or warranties (either express            The research was conducted by Sarah Ditty, Carry Somers,       https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
not to be construed as connected to or relating to any form       or implied) as to the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or        Ilishio Lovejoy, Sienna Somers, Marzia Lafranchi, Katie
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this Index. This Index has not been prepared to any specific      any party as a result of the use of this Fashion Transparency        Bronwyn Seier.                                                 view the Raw Data File.
or general investment objectives. Before acting on anything       Index. Neither Fashion Revolution CIC nor any of its agents,
inspired by anything contained in this Index, you must            representatives, advisers, affiliates, directors, officers and       The C&A Foundation funded Fashion Revolution CIC who           You are free to copy and redistribute the Fashion
consider whether it is suitable to your circumstances and,        employees undertake any obligation to provide the users              in turn funded the research for this Index. We would like      Transparency Index in any medium or format provided
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The material in this Index is based on information that we        Reference herein to any specific brand, commercial                                                                                  a consultancy or other service offering. You must contact
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out solely according to the new Fashion Transparency Index        agents, representatives, advisers, affiliates, directors, officers                                                                  © Fashion Revolution CIC 2019
methodology and no other assessment models used by any            and employees.                                                       We have mitigated any risk of a conflict of interest by the
of the project partners or our analyst team. Any statements,                                                                           following three methods: viewing and treating C&A and the      Published 24th April 2019
opinions, conclusions or recommendations contained in             To the maximum extent permitted by law any responsibility            C&A Foundation as separate entities; treating C&A like any
this Index are honestly and reasonably held or made at the        or liability for this Index or any related material is expressly     other of the 199 brands we analysed; and we did not give
time of publication. Any opinions expressed are our current       disclaimed provided that nothing in this disclaimer shall            C&A any preferential treatment.
opinions based on detailed research as of the date of the         exclude any liability for, or any remedy in respect of, fraud
publication of this Index only and may change without             or fraudulent misrepresentation. Any disputes, claims or
notice. Any views expressed in this Index only represent the      proceedings in connection with or arising in relation to this
views of Fashion Revolution CIC, unless otherwise expressly       Index will be governed by and construed in accordance with
noted. The content of this publication can in no way be           English law and submitted to the exclusive jurisdiction of the
taken to reflect the views of any of the funders of Fashion       courts of England and Wales.
Revolution CIC or the Fashion Transparency Index.
FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                              03

FOREWORD                                                                                 " There is no
                                                                                         beauty without
                                                                                         truth and there is
                                                                                         no truth without
                                                                                         transparency.”
CARRY SOMERS
FOUNDER AND GLOBAL
OPERATIONS DIRECTOR
FASHION REVOLUTION

                                           Leading up to International Women’s           double by 2030. Although 72% of brands       and why we track their progress through
                                           Day this year, many people asked brands       publish policies on energy and carbon        our annual Fashion Transparency Index.
Beauty is truth, truth beauty.             where their women’s empowerment               emissions at the company level, and
                                           slogan T-shirts were made. Did they           48.5% publish supplier policies on this      There truly is an ocean of truth lying
John Keats declared that real beauty       empower the women who made them?              issue, just 55% of brands publish the        undiscovered before us when it comes
resides in truth and truth alone is        Just 37.5% of the 200 brands reviewed         annual carbon footprint in their own         to the world of fashion, but there is a
beautiful. The beauty of objects may       this year, down from 40% of 150 brands        facilities and only 19.5% publish this       sea change taking place and we are
change, so we should pay more              reviewed last year, disclose that they are    information for their supply chain.          seeing consumers wading in and
attention to the beauty at their core      involved in capacity building projects                                                     asking, demanding, to know the truth
than to outward appearances. Our           in the supply chain focused on gender         We recognise that it is not easy for         behind their clothes. We have more
perception of what we consider to be a     equality or female empowerment,               brands to become transparent - it’s an       and more online transparency tools
beautiful or desirable item of clothing    and only 3 brands are publishing data         uncomfortable process, but a necessary       at our disposal to hold brands and
can change not just with trends, time      on the prevalence of gender-based             one if we are to see change. Despite         retailers to account. Even if they aren’t
or the impact of use, but by knowing       labour violations in supplier facilities.     some progress over the past six years,       disclosing this information themselves,
the truth behind its manufacture. How                                                    the fashion industry still operates in       sooner or later, the truth will come out.
was it made and by whom? Knowing           We are also starting to see the truth of      an opaque manner and the lack of
the truth can change our perception.       our destruction of the natural world and      information about where our clothes          The fashion of the future is not about
                                           recognising the significant role played       and accessories are made and who             the pretty little things, the shoes and
More than ever before, brands and          by the fashion industry. It is one of the     made them is a huge barrier to change.       handbag and new party dress. It is
retailers are being held to account and    most polluting industries in the world:       Human rights abuses, gender inequality       about weaving truth and values into
beginning to realise that their fashion    global textile production emits 1.2 billion   and environmental degradation remain         our clothing. We love fashion. We
statements need to be embodied in          tonnes of greenhouse gases annually,          rife and we know that exploitation thrives   love beautiful clothes. But there is
truth. We don't want beautifully written   more than international flights and           in hidden places. This is why Fashion        no beauty without truth and there
empty words of vision and commitment;      maritime shipping combined, and our           Revolution urges all brands and retailers    is no truth without transparency.
we want real, tangible information.        clothing consumption is expected to           to pursue full supply chain transparency
FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                              04

FINDINGS-AT-A-GLANCE                                                                           Average score in each section

                                                                                                  POLICY &
                                                                                                COMMITMENTS       GOVERNANCE         TRACEABILITY

          5       HIGHEST
                  SCORING BRANDS                       Number of brands
                                                       publishing suppliers lists
                                                                                                   48%               27%                12%
  Adidas                                  64%
                                                            2017           2018        2019
  Reebok                                  64%                                                  KNOW, SHOW & FIX   SPOTLIGHT ISSUES

  Patagonia                               64%          First-tier manufacturers
  Esprit                                  62%                                                      14%                 17%
                                                                       32
  H&M                                      61%
                                                                                  55
*out of 250 possible points

                                                                                          70

9%
                        increase in average
                        score amongst 98 brands
                        reviewed since 2017
                                                       Processing facilities

                                                                 14
                                                                                                      5     BRANDS SCORING
                                                                                                            ZERO POINTS

                                                                      27                         Youngor                                      0

      5        BIGGEST MOVERS                                                38                  Jessica Simpson                              0
               (% CHANGE SINCE 2018)                                                             Mexx                                         0
                                                       Suppliers of raw materials                Elie Tahari                                  0
  Dior                                    22%
                                                        0                                        Tom Ford                                     0
  Sainsbury's          Tu Clothing         21%
                                                        1
  Nike Converse, Jordan and Nike           21%

                                                                                                  4%
                                                            10                                                    increase in average
  New Balance                              18%                                                                    score amongst 150 brands
  Marc Jacobs                              17%                                                                    reviewed since 2018
FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                               05

EXECUTIVE
SUMMARY
Sportswear and outdoor brands                 be responsible business partners to          marked improvement from 2017 when             by over 10% since last year, showing
lead the way on transparency                  their suppliers? And considering             no brands scored more than 50%. This          significant efforts to be more
                                              women form the majority of the people        clearly indicates that even leading           transparent, whilst 20 brands (or 10% of
This year’s Fashion Transparency Index        working in the fashion industry from         brands and retailers still have significant   the brands reviewed) score above 50%
includes 200 of the world’s biggest           factory to shop floor, we are surprised to   room for improvement when it comes to         compared to 10 brands in 2018.
fashion brands and retailers. The             see brands saying very little about their    sharing their social and environmental
highest scoring brands this year are          efforts to empower women and girls           policies, practices and impacts with their    14.5% of brands score less than 5%,
Adidas, Reebok and Patagonia, who             and achieve gender equality                  customers and stakeholders.                   compared to 17% of brands last year,
each score 64% of the 250 possible                                                                                                       which shows that more brands are
points. Esprit scoring 62% and H&M            Leading fashion brands and                   The Fashion Transparency Index                embarking on their journey towards
scoring 61% are the following two             retailers are making significant             has been a useful tool for                    greater transparency.
brands in the 61-70% range.                   efforts to be more transparent               encouraging greater
                                              but there is still a long way to go          transparency                                  We have found that the UK Modern
These brands are disclosing a wide                                                                                                       Slavery Act, California Transparency in
range of human rights and                     This is the first year that any brands       Due to the increase in the number of          Supply Chains Act and some of the
environmental policies and                    and retailers will score over 60%,           brands reviewed this year, the overall        relevant French and EU legislation has
commitments as well as information            showing that leading brands are              average score has not increased, but          forced major brands to disclose at
about how responsibility is governed          taking steps to disclose more about          amongst the 150 brands reviewed in            least some information publicly.
throughout the business, who their            their social and environmental               2018 and again in 2019 there has been
suppliers are and some data about the         policies, practices and impacts.             a 3.6% increase in the average score.         Several fashion brands disclose
outcomes and impacts of their                                                                                                            supply chain information for the
sustainability practices.                     The average score amongst the 200            Amongst the 98 brands reviewed in 2017,       first time
                                              biggest fashion brands and retailers         2018 and again in 2019 there has been an
While major brands are making                 reviewed this year is 21%. Whilst we are     8.9% increase in the average score since      Chanel, s.Oliver, Dior, Desigual and
significant steps towards supply chain        seeing some leading brands begin to          they were first reviewed. This progress,      Sandro are publishing meaningful
transparency, detailed information            disclose more information about their        coupled with the feedback we have             social and environmental information
about the outcomes and impacts of             social and environmental policies,           received directly from brands, suggests       for the first time. Chanel increased
their efforts is still lacking. We see very   practices and impacts, there are still far   that inclusion in the Fashion                 from 3% in 2018 to 10% this year.
little information and data disclosed         too many major brands lagging behind.        Transparency Index has motivated              Desigual increased 7%, Sandro and
about the purchasing practices of these                                                    leading brands to be more transparent.        s.Oliver by 9% and Dior by almost 22%
leading brands and retailers, begging         No major brands score above 70%.                                                           (nb. this may be a result of Dior being
the question: what are brands doing to        Although our research this year shows a      11 brands have increased their scores         taken over by LVMH).
FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                      06

EXECUTIVE
SUMMARY
5 major fashion brands disclose            environmental practices. For example,       Many leading fashion brands                disclosing the percentage of their
nothing at all                             the average score amongst all 200           share some information about               products that are made from
                                           brands in the Know, Show & Fix section is   their strategies for addressing            sustainable materials.
Only 5 brands (2.5%) of the brands         just 14% and in the Spotlight Issues        environment impacts
reviewed) are scoring zero points this     section, where we do deep-dive                                                         54% of brands are publishing goals on
year compared to 9 brands (6%) last        research into some of the most pressing     The global apparel and footwear            improving environmental impacts, but
year. These are Eli Tahari, Jessica        issues, brands score an average of 17%.     industry accounts for 8% of the world’s    only 40% publish goals on improving
Simpson, Mexx, Tom Ford and Chinese                                                    greenhouse gas emissions, almost as        human rights.
menswear brand, Youngor. Another 10        Major fashion brands have made              much as the total for the whole of
brands are disclosing almost nothing       significant progress on                     Europe. In a business-as-usual             Furthermore, for all the media scrutiny
(less than 2%), including Longchamp,       publishing supplier lists                   scenario, fashion’s climate impact is      surrounding leading brands burning
Max Mara, New Yorker and several others.                                               expected to increase 49% by 2030 -         unsold stock over the past year, we
                                           70 out of the 200 major fashion brands      equal to today’s total annual greenhouse   were surprised to see that only 26.5%
Please note we are not evaluating          are publishing a list of their first-tier   gas emissions in the United States,        of brands describe what they are doing
brands' ethical or sustainability          manufacturers, and 38 brands are            according to Quantis. Considering the      to reduce pre-consumer surplus/
performance but rather how much            disclosing their processing facilities,     need to act urgently on climate change     waste (e.g. off-cuts, unsold and
information they disclose publicly about   where ginning and spinning, wet             and looking at what the major brands are   defective stock, production samples,
their human rights and environmental       processing, embroidering, printing,         disclosing about their efforts to reduce   23.5% of brands offer their customers
policies, practices and impacts.           finishing, dyeing and laundering            environmental impacts, we wonder if        in-store or online recycling schemes,
                                           typically takes place.                      they are doing enough?                     and just 26% explain how they’re
More information shared about                                                                                                     investing in circular solutions to reduce
fashion brands' policies than              We have seen an increase in average         55% out of the 200 brands are              textile waste.
their practices and impacts                scores in the Traceability section by       publishing the annual carbon footprint
                                           over 7% amongst the fashion brands          in the company's own sites, although       Considering the fashion industry
As we have seen in previous years,         reviewed since 2017.                        only 19.5% disclose carbon emissions       employs millions of women,
brands continue to publish the most                                                    in the supply chain – where over 50%       brands ought to share far more
information about their policies and       10 brands (5%) are disclosing some of       of the industry’s emissions occur,         information about how they are
commitments, with an average score of      the facilities or farms supplying their     according to Quantis.                      addressing gender equality
48% in that section of the methodology,    fibres such as viscose, cotton and
while they disclose significantly less     wool. This is a significant increase from   Meanwhile, whilst 43% of brands are        Women form the majority of the people
information about the outcomes and         2018 where only one brand disclosed         publishing a sustainable materials         working in the fashion industry from
impacts of their social and                this information and no brands shared       strategy or roadmap, only 29% are          factory to shop floor. Around 70-80% of
                                           this information in 2016 or 2017.
FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                     07

EXECUTIVE
SUMMARY
the world’s millions of garment            terms — an issue we repeatedly have         in accelerating climate change, and       By the 2020 edition of this Index, we
workers are female, yet major brands       been told is a pain point for suppliers,    certainly they are responsible for many   hope to see even more major brands
don’t seem to be doing all that much to    one that can impact their ability to        of the human rights abuses that persist   and retailers disclosing their suppliers.
address gender inequality and              provide regular and fairly paid             in global supply chains.                  We want to see brands publishing
empower women across the fashion           employment to workers. 18 (9%) brands                                                 more detailed information about the
value chain.                               disclose a formal process for gathering     Major fashion brands have the moral       outcomes of their efforts to improve
                                           supplier feedback on the company's          imperative and ability to effect change   human rights and environmental
Just over one third of brands support      purchasing practices.                       on a global scale for large numbers of    sustainability. And finally, we will be
women’s empowerment projects for                                                       people and that puts them in a really     encouraging major brands to share far
garment workers. However, only 3           Given that major brands are expecting       powerful position. Having said that       more information about their
brands (1.5%) publish data on the          trust and transparency from suppliers,      we’re not going to be able to maintain    purchasing practices, their actions to
prevalence of gender-based violations      they too should share more                  current levels of production and          reduce waste and their efforts to
in the supplier facilities.                information publicly about their own        consumption even if systems are           achieve gender equality for women
                                           commitments and efforts to be               designed to be much more restorative.     across the industry.
63% of brands publish policies on          responsible business partners.              Simply put, fashion brands will need to
equal pay but only 33.5% publish the                                                   innovate as well as use fewer
annual gender pay gap within the           How we plan to take action on               resources, and help their customers to
company.                                   these findings                              consume less, take better care of their
                                                                                       clothes and use them longer. The
Major brands are disclosing                The Fashion Transparency Index has          current model isn’t working for the
shockingly little information              been a useful tool for opening up           environment, nor for the vast number
about their purchasing practices           conversations with the world’s largest      of people working for poverty-level
                                           fashion brands and retailers about          wages in the supply chain. This can
Only 6 (3%) of the 200 brands disclose     what they can do to be more                 change and leading fashion brands
a method for isolating and calculating     transparent. We believe this is the first   have an important role to play.
labour costs in their price negotiation    step in holding these big brands to
process with suppliers. 13 (6.5%)          account for the human rights and            We will continue to use the Index to
brands disclose a policy to pay            environmental impacts of their              measure brands’ progress towards
suppliers within a maximum of 60           business practices.                         transparency and help push them
days. Only 4 brands publish the                                                        harder and faster towards taking on
percentage of supplier payments            In many ways, the world’s major             more responsibility for their policies,
made on time and according to agreed       fashion brands have played a huge part      practices and impacts.
FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019   08

WHY
TRANSPARENCY?
FASHION INDEX 2019 EDITION - A review of 200 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about ...
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                       09

WHY TRANSPARENCY
MATTERS IN THE
FASHION INDUSTRY
Lack of transparency costs lives           Fragmented supply chains
                                           obscure accountability
When Rana Plaza collapsed six
years ago in Bangladesh, killing           The vast majority of today’s fashion
and injuring thousands of garment          brands and retailers do not own their
workers, people had to dig through         manufacturing and supplier facilities,
the rubble looking for clothing            making it challenging to monitor
                                           or control working conditions and
labels in order to figure out which
                                           environmental impacts across the
brands were producing clothes in
                                           highly globalised supply chain. This
one of the five garment factories          can sometimes be used as an excuse
operating in the building.                 for brands to evade responsibility
                                           for how their products are made.
In some cases, it took weeks for
brands and retailers to determine          Brands and retailers may work with
why their labels were found amongst        hundreds or even thousands of
the ruins and what sort of purchasing      factories at any given time – and
agreements they had with those             that is just the suppliers that cut,
suppliers. Many clothing brands            sew and assemble our garments.             [TOP]
                                                                                      'Dhaka Savar
sourcing from the factories inside Rana    There are many facilities further          Building Collapse'
                                                                                      by rijans
Plaza didn’t know their products were      down the chain that weave, dye             via Flickr CC
being made there.                          and finish materials and farms that        [Bottom]
                                                                                       'Bangladeshi
                                           grow fibres used in our clothing.          garment workers
Unfortunately, factory fires and                                                      block a road dur-
                                                                                      ing a demonstra-
accidents, poor working conditions,        During the manufacturing process
                                                                                      tion to demand
                                                                                      higher wages in
dangerous pollution and exploitation of    our clothes pass through many pairs
                                                                                      Dhaka
                                                                                      by RTE
garment workers remains rampant six        of hands before they ever reach the
                                                                                      via https://www.
                                                                                      rte.ie/news/
years after Rana Plaza.                    shop floor or, increasingly, the screens
                                                                                      world/2019/0109
                                                                                      /1022163-cloth-
                                                                                      ing-workers-
                                           of our phones and computers.               strike-in-bang-
                                                                                      ladesh/
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019

A brand might place an order with one        Progress is happening but
supplier, who in turn subcontracts           it is still difficult to know
the work to another facility if they         #whomademyclothes
need to meet a short deadline or
require a special process to be done.        Of course, much has changed since
This happens regularly across the            Rana Plaza, especially in Bangladesh.
industry and makes it extremely              Many factories have been upgraded,
difficult to monitor human rights and        and with all the attention on Bangladesh
environmental impacts. Unauthorised          since then, some very real and positive
subcontracting causes workers to             progress has been made towards
become effectively invisible in the          improving working conditions.
supply chain, and this is where the
highest risk of human rights violations      However, not enough has changed
and environmental degradation tends          in global fashion supply chains and
to occur. But these subcontracted            business practices on the whole across
facilities are not the only places where     the industry are still very secretive. It
poor conditions persist - sometimes          is extremely challenging, if not almost
it’s right under our noses in factories      impossible, for a consumer to find out
and communities close to home too.           where their clothes have been made,
                                             by whom and under what conditions
Transparency as the first                    — which means it is hugely difficult to
step towards change                          know what real-world impacts, both
                                             positive and negative, our clothing
Right after the Rana Plaza factory           purchases are having on people’s
collapse happened, it became very            lives and on the environment.
clear to us that the fashion industry
needed urgent, transformative change,        This is why we are still calling for a
and that the first vital step towards this   revolution of the fashion industry.
change required far greater visibility       Never again should a tragedy like Rana
and transparency of the people               Plaza happen, yet factory fires, safety
working in supply chains, the business       accidents and faulty buildings continue
relationships at play across supply          to harm people in the places where
chains and information about working         our clothes are made. The women who
conditions and environmental impacts.        make our clothes continue to face
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                       11

"In our survey of over
                                                       regular and systemic discrimination          Over 173,000 posts using
                                                       and sexual abuse. Pollution and waste        our hashtags, including

 5,000 consumers
                                                       created as a result of the way our           #whomademyclothes, generating
                                                       clothes are produced and consumed            720 million impressions during April

 across Europe,
                                                       continues to damage our ecosystems.          2018 alone – an increase of 35% on
                                                                                                    the previous year.
                                                       People want to know
 80% said that 				                                    #whomademyclothes                            Transparency helps facilitate
                                                                                                    remediation of human rights
 fashion brands 			                                    Consumers don’t want to buy clothes
                                                       made by people working in danger,
                                                                                                    and environmental abuses

 should disclose                                       exploited, paid poverty-level wages, in
                                                       polluted environments but there is simply
                                                                                                    As Jenny Holdcroft, the Assistant
                                                                                                    General Secretary of IndustriALL

 their manufacturers.”                                 not enough information available about
                                                       the clothes we wear. Fashion Revolution
                                                                                                    Global Union, explained in previous
                                                                                                    editions, “knowing the names of
                                                       wants to change that. This is why we are     major buyers from factories gives
                                                       pushing for more transparency from the       workers and their unions a stronger
FASHION REVOLUTION & IPSOS MORI                        fashion industry, and the annual Fashion     leverage, crucial for a timely
NOVEMBER 2018                                          Transparency Index is one of the tools       solution when resolving conflicts,
                                                       that helps us do this.                       whether it be refusal to recognise
                                                                                                    the union, or unlawful sackings
                                                       When we are equipped with more — and         for demanding their rights. It also
                                                       better quality, credible — information       provides the possibility to create
                                                       about the human and environmental            a link from the worker back to the
                                                       impacts of the clothes we buy, we are        customer and possibly media to
                                                       able to make more informed shopping          bring attention to their issues.”
                                                       choices. As a result, transparency builds
                                                       trust in the brands we buy.                  Greater transparency can help
                                                                                                    brands engage and collaborate with
                                                       People are increasingly asking for greater   trade unions and civil society groups
                                                       transparency from the fashion industry.      to identify and remedy problems
                                                       In 2018, more than 3.25 million people       more quickly, if the relevant
                                                       across the world participated in Fashion     information is available and easy to
                                                       Revolution through events, posting on        find. Transparency also helps others
                                                       social media, viewing our videos or          discover best practice examples and
                                                       downloading resources from our website.      positive stories from the supply chain
                                                                                                    that can be highlighted, shared and
                                                                                                    potentially replicated elsewhere.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                            12

CASE STUDIES:
TRANSPARENCY IN ACTION

                                                                                                                                [LEFT] PHOTOGRAPHY: INDUSTRIALL
                                                                                                                                - MYANMAR - workers in solidarity
                                                                                                                                in front of the factory

                                                                                                                                [RIGHT] PHOTOGRAPHY @
                                                                                                                                INDUSTRIALL - Garment
                                                                                                                                workers in Turkey

Real-life example of how                                                     Real-life example of when
transparency helps workers                                                   the lack of transparency is a
                                                                             problem for workers
MYANMAR                                                                                                              these brands but only received a
                                                                             TURKEY                                  response from one brand – stating
In Myanmar, six workers were              Because they had access to these                                           that they are members of the Business
terminated after forming a trade          supplier lists, the trade union    In Turkey, there has been a recent      Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI, now
union. Using clothing labels from         was able to reach a negotiated     case in which trade union leaders       re-branded to amfori) and that their
inside the factory, IndustriALL trade     settlement with the supplier to    were illegally terminated for           audit reports did not reveal any labour
union members we were able                bring back the union leaders and   exercising their rights of freedom      rights violation in the factory. In such
to check the online supplier lists        move towards recognition of the    of association. In this case, workers   cases, the workers can only use the
disclosed by brands for whose labels      union at the factory level.        reported which brands they were         national court system for potential
they had found. This enabled the                                             making clothes for, but this time       remedy to their situation. This can take
union members to reach out and                                               none of the brands were publicly        up to two years. The unions continue
build a coalition of brands, increasing                                      disclosing their supplier list,         to follow up through the auditor, but it
their leverage within this large                                             making it very difficult to hold them   is an added layer that slows down the
multinational supplier, to ensure                                            accountable. The Turkish union and      possibility of finding an adequate and
that the workers’ rights were upheld.                                        IndustriALL attempted to contact        timely resolution.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019        13

" Transparency is needed by every major multinational

                                                           PHOTOGRAPHY © AWAJ FOUNDATION www.awajfoundation.org
   fashion brand and retailer in order to help workers
   understand what the brands whose clothes they are
   making are doing to uphold workers' rights. To me,
   transparency also means that brands are willing to be
   held accountable for their business practices.

 My organisation uses the information disclosed by
 major fashion brands in various ways. For example, we
 share information with workers so they can negotiate
 for better working conditions and get their peers and
 managers involved too. We also use transparency
 information to understand good practices that
 brands are doing.

 We would like to see more brands and retailers
 share information that is helpful to trade unions
 and garment workers such as supplier lists,
 audit reports and activities designed to advance
 freedom of association and social dialogue."

 NAZMA AKTER
 BANGLAHDESI TRADE UNIONIST AND
 FOUNDER OF THE AWAJ FOUNDATION
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                        14

VIEWPOINT:
GARMENT WORKERS LIKE ME DESERVE MORE
TRANSPARENCY FROM BRANDS AND RETAILERS

                                           There is a long history of non-             when the law is on the employer’s           workers and their company, such as a
                                           transparency in the garment factories       side. Currently the California Garment      complaint hotline. The brands should
                                           in Los Angeles. When employers hire         Bill AB633 doesn’t hold the brands          send independent monitors to check
                                           workers, they want to know about our        accountable for wage theft. This is why     the conditions of the factories. Then
                                           experience and skills, but we rarely        we must take action and go directly         they should reward the manufacturers
                                           get to ask them the same kind of            after brands like Ross to demand justice.   who are treating their workers well to
                                           questions. Upon hiring, workers often                                                   incentivize continued compliance.
                                                                                       A lot of our information has to come
                                           do not know if we are going to be paid
                                                                                       from workers on the factory floor.          The most difficult information to obtain
                                           a minimum wage, or how long we will
                                                                                       Workers learn to identify brands and        is about how low the wages really are,
                                           get to work in the factory. There is also
                                                                                       labels, or pay attention to finishing       hiring and pay rate discrimination, and
                                           no fixed schedule. If the boss says they
                                                                                       boxes to understand where the               health and safety conditions in the
                                           want the production done today, we
                                                                                       merchandise is going. Sometimes             factories. The truth is that the “piece
JENNY DEWI                                 have to finish it.
GARMENT WORKER CENTER                                                                  it is through personal conversations        rate” in the garment industry has barely
                                           We are expected to work like machines,      where we learn how often the product        changed in more than two decades,
                                           just carry out the operations without       comes to the factory, how much the          so most of us make less than the
I have been a garment worker since                                                     manufacturers are paying per piece.         minimum wage.
                                           asking any questions. The garment
1999, and a member of the Garment                                                      Our pay is often in cash or cashier’s
                                           companies don’t let us know which
Worker Center for six years. I joined                                                  check with no receipt, so we must           I want Fashion Revolution to expose
                                           brand, or retailers we are working for.
the GWC because their mission is to                                                    document the pay ourselves.                 the problems prevalent in the fashion
                                           Often we don’t even know the name of
organize Los Angeles workers to change                                                                                             industry so that customers, the public,
                                           the boss, or the name of the company.
the local industry for the better, and                                                 Brands and retailers should disclose        and the government will demand real
                                           Even when workers file cases at the
emphasize the importance of fashion                                                    the wages workers are paid to produce       changes from retailers and brands. Over
                                           Labor Commission, we must do our
brand accountability. Transparency is at                                               clothing. Currently, the way things are     45,000 garment workers in Los Angeles
                                           own investigations in order to get this
the heart of brand accountability, and                                                 structured, brands and retailers do not     are working in a sweatshop industry.
                                           information.
would be helpful for garment workers                                                   have to know or care about the workers      Every sector of the industry needs to
in Los Angeles and across the globe.                                                   who make their clothes.                     take part in ending the exploitation, and
                                           For instance, when manufacturers
We also need more local, national, and                                                                                             making the working conditions better
                                           that produced for Ross received the
international policies that ensure such                                                Brands should demand information            for garment workers in Los Angeles and
                                           judgment of wage theft, they closed
transparency is enforced in order to                                                   from the factory floor, and provide         across the globe.
                                           down their factories, and now we
stop sweatshop labor.                                                                  a line of communication between
                                           can’t even find them. This is worsened
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                              15

VIEWPOINT:
CONSUMERS LIKE ME WANT BRANDS
TO BE OPEN AND HONEST

                   TOLLY DOLLY POSH
                   ETHICAL FASHION BLOGGER
                   TOLLYDOLLYPOSHFASHION.COM

Transparency to me means                       the board from the fabrics to the          future but it should also be part of
                                               factories being used.                      the customer service experience. The
having complete faith and                                                                 positive reaction transparency brings
trust in how a business works.                 A brand being honest about where           should be an incentive for companies
                                               they could be doing better or what they    to release more data about how they
It's about a company facing issues             are trying improve brings me more          work and with who.
head-on and creating open and                  comfort than a brand that decides to
honest dialogue around their practices,        stay quiet or only answer questions
whether they are in the early stages of
creating a more ethical and sustainable
                                               when they're asked. Information
                                               should be clearly accessible to
                                                                                          “A brand being honest about
supply chain, or whether they've almost
hit the nail on the head.
                                               consumers and not hidden under a           where they could be doing
                                               sub-menu or only available via email.
                                               I will automatically grow weary and        better or what they are
For me, when a brand flies the 'ethical
                                                                                          trying improve brings me
                                               suspicious if information about ethics
fashion flag' proudly, it gives me a lot       and sustainability efforts are difficult
of confidence as a consumer to spend
my money with them and put forward
                                               to find or if a company does not
                                               respond quickly when that information
                                                                                          more comfort than a brand
a vote for the sort of fashion industry
I'd like to see. I find official credentials
                                               is requested.                              that decides to stay quiet or
and certifications extremely valuable
as they show a clear commitment to
                                               Supplying this information shouldn't       only answer questions when
                                               just be a way of pushing the industry
different efforts, and this goes across        towards a more fair and sustainable        they're asked.”
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                   16

WHAT DO
WE MEAN BY
TRANSPARENCY?
                                                                                            transparency
For Fashion Revolution,                    Transparency can enable greater
                                           accountability
transparency means credible,
comprehensive and comparable               Transparency is not just sharing the
public disclosure of data and              good stories nor disclosing only

                                                                                            accountability
information about fashion’s supply         compliant, well-performing suppliers
chains, business practices and             — it’s about presenting the full picture,
the impacts of these practices on          both good and not-so-good.

workers, communities and the
                                           This sort of transparency requires
environment.                               brands and retailers to know exactly
                                           who makes the products they sell
When we talk about greater                 – from who stitched them right
transparency, we mean public               through to who dyed the fabric and
disclosure of sourcing relationships       who farmed the fibre. And crucially,

                                                                                               change
and of companies’ social and               this requires brands to trace the
environmental policies and practices,      journey of their products right down
goals and targets, governance,             to the raw material level. It requires
performance and progress.                  that brands monitor and measure
                                           their outcomes and impacts, not
                                           just share their values and policies.

                                           We ask brands to share information
                                           publicly so that we can collectively
                                           scrutinise all tiers of the supply chain,
                                           identify the best and worst practices
                                           and hold brands to account.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                17                                                         17

Transparency is not selective
disclosure to third parties. We
                                           Transparency is a tool for change,
                                           not the goal itself
                                                                                         T R A N S PA R E N C Y
want to see public disclosure
                                           Transparency by itself will not solve
Some brands opt to disclose supply         the industry’s problems, but it
chain information to selected multi-       provides an important window into
stakeholder groups or trade unions         the conditions in which our clothes
rather than publicly, and have done        are being made. What we each do
so for many years in order to manage       with the information being disclosed
their risks and solve issues. However,     by big brands and retailers is most
we feel this is not enough. Health and     important of all. It is with access to
safety incidents, widespread abuses        information that we hold brands and                           FA I R T R A D E
and even deaths are still happening        retailers, governments and suppliers
and potentially can be solved faster if    to account. We see transparency                              W E L L- B E I N G
information is more freely available.      as the first step towards wider
                                           systemic change for a safer, fairer                         L I V I N G WAG E S
Being transparent does not                 and cleaner global fashion industry.
necessarily mean acting                                                                               EMPOWERMENT
ethically and sustainably
                                                                                                    GENDER EQUALITY
We want to stress that transparency
is not to be conflated with brands                                                            BUSINESS ACCOUNTABILITY
behaving ethically and sustainably.
This report is not looking at which                                                          S U S TA I N A B L E L I V E L I H O O D S
brands are more environmentally
friendly or conducting business           “None of the main                               GOOD WORKING CONDITIONS
more ethically than others. A brand         issues which                                 E N V I R O N M E N TA L S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y
may publish a considerable amount
of information and data about their
                                            humanity is facing
policies, practices and impacts and         will be resolved
still have poor working conditions and      without access to
environmental degradation happening
in their supply chains. Conversely,         information."
brands may be doing all sorts of good                                                     A FAIRER, SAFER, CLEANER
things behind-the-scenes but don’t                                                            FASHION INDUSTRY
talk about them publicly. It’s a shame
                                           CHRISTOPER DELOIRE
not to share publicly, as other brands     SECRETARY GENERAL,
could have much to learn from them.        REPORTERS WITHOUT BORDERS, 2018
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                   18

TO ACHIEVE SYSTEMIC
CHANGE WE RECOGNISE
4 IMPORTANT THINGS:

                                                                                                       i

            It is a process                            Inclusivity is key               More information is needed                     Turn data into action

  It is going to be a long journey towards       Millions of workers are employed      Many people continue to shop from       Transparency isn’t just for transparency’s
    a different industry model, requiring      through the supply chains of these      big corporate brands, but want more     sake. The data and information disclosed
 many incremental but necessary steps,        big brands, and we must be careful      tools to understand how products are       by companies needs to be accessible
     to turn the tide of overconsumption          to ensure that the future of the    made, where they are made, by whom       and detailed enough to take action upon.
   and unsustainable business models.           fashion industry is able to provide   and under what conditions. This report   What we do with publicly available supply
      We believe the first step is greater    decent work, sustainable livelihoods,   is one tool that helps consumers and     chain information, how we use it to drive
transparency. This will entail consumers,         hope and dignity for everyone       other stakeholders better understand     positive change, is what will count most.
 brands and retailers, governments and         employed in it, from farm to retail.        what major brands are doing.
    citizens each taking action. Fashion
 Revolution is engaging with all of these
     groups to catalyse positive change.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019   19

ABOUT THE
FASHION
TRANSPARENCY
INDEX
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                          20

WHY HAVE WE
CONDUCTED
THIS RESEARCH?

Fashion Revolution is calling              By conducting this research, we want to     Furthermore, we wanted to create:          “We developed
                                           help people know a bit more about the
for greater transparency                   brands and retailers they buy products      •    comparable tool that helps
                                                                                           A
                                                                                                                                    the Fashion
throughout the fashion industry            from. Many of the brands included in the        stakeholders better understand           Transparency Index
and our #whomademyclothes                  Fashion Transparency Index are selling          how much information major               as a tool to scrutinise
                                           special ‘sustainable’ collections but           brands and retailers are disclosing;
social media campaign has
                                           what about the rest of their products?
                                                                                                                                    what major
inspired millions of people                Where are their clothes made, by            •   A tool to incentivise big brands         fashion brands
to take action since 2013.                 whom and under what conditions?                 and retailers to disclose more           disclose about their
                                                                                           credible, comparable and detailed
                                           What information can we expect to find          information year-on-year by
                                                                                                                                    human rights and
To build on this question, we wanted
to create a tool that would help           about big brands’ human rights and              utilising the competitive nature         environmental
people better understand what              environmental policies and practices?           of business performance;                 policies, practices
                                           What can we find out about the effects
transparency looks like in practice,
                                           of their business practices on the people   •   An ongoing exercise that helps           and impacts."
particularly when it comes to big                                                          the Fashion Revolution movement
fashion brands and retailers.              who work in their supply chains? These
                                           are some of questions that the Fashion          shape its own understanding
                                           Transparency Index research considers.          of what brands share about              SARAH DITTY
                                                                                           their suppliers and social and          POLICY DIRECTOR,
                                                                                           environmental impacts across the        FASHION REVOLUTION
                                                                                           value chain; what transparency
                                                                                           entails and what transparency
                                                                                           demands we may ask in future
                                                                                           from major brands and retailers.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                           21

THE
                                                                                           The Fashion Transparency Index uses a ratings methodology
                                                                                           to benchmark brands’ public disclosure across five key areas,

METHODOLOGY                                                                                including: policy and commitments, governance, supply
                                                                                           chain traceability, supplier assessment and remediation, and
                                                                                           new 'spotlight issues' covering gender equality, decent work,
                                                                                           climate action and responsible consumption and production.

1.                                2.                                   3.                                 4.                                 5.
 POLICY &
                                    GOVERNANCE                         TRACEABILITY                         KNOW, SHOW & FIX                 SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
 COMMITMENTS
 - What are the brand’s social      — Is there board level 		          - Does the brand publish a 		        ­­— How does the brand assess   ­­— What is the brand doing to
   and environmental policies?        responsibility for 		              list of its suppliers, 		               the implementation of its        address gender equality
                                      the company’s social and 		        from manufacturing to raw               supplier policies?               and female empowerment?
 — How is the brand putting its
                                      environmental impacts?             material level?
   policies into practice?                                                                                  — How does the brand 		          — What is the brand doing to
                                    — Can a relevant department or     ­­—	If so, how much detail          fix problems when found in       support Freedom of
 — How does the brand decide
                                      individual be easily contacted          do they share?                  its supplier facilities?         Association and the
   which issues to prioritise?
                                      with questions?                                                                                          payment of living wages?
                                                                                                            — Does the brand disclose
 — What are the brand’s future
                                    — How does the brand link 		                                              assessment findings?           — What is the brand doing to
   goals for improving its
                                      human rights and 		                                                                                      tackle waste and recycling,
   impacts?                                                                                                 — How can workers report
                                      environmental issues to 		                                                                               sustainable production and
                                                                                                              grievances?
                                      its employee and supplier’s                                                                              climate change?
                                      performance?
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                        22

WEIGHTING OF                                                             The methodology focuses exclusively
                                                                         on public disclosure of supply
                                                                                                                   Please be aware that when brands
                                                                                                                   score zero on an individual indicator,

THE SCORES
                                                                         chain information. Therefore, the         it doesn’t necessarily mean anything
                                                                         weighting of the scores is intended       bad. It just means they’re not
                                                                         to emphasise increasing levels of         disclosing their efforts publicly.
                                                                         detailed disclosure, especially when it
                                                                         comes to publishing supplier lists and
                                                                         the results of supplier assessments.
                                                                         We are rewarding granularity.

1.                                2.                          3.                           4.                                5.
 POLICY &
                                    GOVERNANCE                TRACEABILITY                   KNOW, SHOW & FIX                  SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
 COMMITMENTS

TOTAL POSSIBLE POINTS
                 (250)                     49           12          85                                   70                     34

               WEIGHTING
                      (%)                 19.5%        4.5%        34%                                 28%                     14%
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                               23

ABOUT THE
METHODOLOGY

The first iteration of the methodology     The methodology has been designed        •   Dr Alessandra Mezzadri,               We recognise that the methodology
was created by Ethical Consumer            by the Fashion Revolution team, led by       SOAS, University of London            is not perfect and can always
in 2016 with input from Fashion            Fashion Revolution’s Policy Director,                                              be improved. We welcome any
Revolution. For 2017, Fashion Revolution   Sarah Ditty, with consultative input     •   Joe Sutcliffe, Advisor - Dignified    feedback on how to make it better:
took the lead on the project’s             and feedback from a committee of             Work, CARE International              transparency@fashionrevolution.org
development and considerably revised       pro bono industry experts, including:    •   Heather Webb, Ethical Consumer
the methodology. We spent four
months consulting a diverse group          •    Dr Mark Anner, Director of          And several others experts who wished       For further detail of the exact
of more than 20 industry experts                Centre for Global Workers’ Rights   to remain anonymous at this time.           methodology, download the
on this revision process. The new               at Penn State University                                                        2019 brand questionnaire
methodology focuses exclusively                                                     The methodology is based on                 template here.
on public disclosure of supply chain       •    Neil Brown, Alliance                existing international standards
information, and we changed the                 Trust Investments                   and benchmarks including: UN
weighting of the scores to emphasise       •    Professor Ian Cook,                 Sustainable Development Goals,
increasing levels of detailed                   University of Exeter                UN Guiding Principles, OECD Due
disclosure, especially in regards to                                                Diligence Guidelines, Ethical Trading
disclosing supplier information.           •    Orsola de Castro, co-               Initiative Base Code, and Fair Labor
                                                founder of Fashion Revolution       Association’s Freedom of Association
We have updated the methodology                 and waste expert                    guidelines. It has also been developed
again in 2019, making small changes                                                 to align as much as possible with other
for clarity, tweaking a few indicators     •    Subindhu Garkhel,                   industry benchmarks and relevant
to make it more ambitious and                   Fairtrade Foundation                initiatives including the Transparency
selecting new Spotlight Issues.            •    Jenny Holdcroft, IndustriALL        Pledge, Corporate Human Rights
                                                                                    Benchmark and Know The Chain.
There are 202 indicators in the            •    Kate Larsen, SupplyESChange
2019 Fashion Transparency                       Initiative
Index methodology.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                         24

UPDATES TO THE
METHODOLOGY

Our annual revision process                Each year we select new Spotlight         Spotlight Issues selected for 2019            How this affects the scoring year-
                                           Issues in section 5, which are selected                                                 on-year
Each year our policy and research          through consultation with the wider       This year we have observed many
team reviews every methodology             Fashion Revolution team and through       companies aligning their goals                Because changes are made to the
indicator for clarity and makes            our research into the latest industry     and strategies with the Sustainable           methodology each year, this may have
amendments where we feel the               developments. We also seek input from     Development Goals, so we have chosen          an impact on the year-on-year direct
wording could be clearer. We also          our pro bono consultation committee.      4 out of the 17 goals that are particularly   comparability of the data results. This
consider the wider methodology             The aim is to choose a selection of       relevant to the global fashion industry       is why we would like to emphasise
in the context of recent industry          the most pressing challenges facing       as this year’s Spotlight Issues:              focusing on the range in which brands
developments, with special attention       the sector for deeper investigation.                                                    score rather than their individual
to any new laws and policies, reporting                                              •   SDG 5: Gender equality                    scores. The ranges reveal patterns of
standards and emerging trends.                                                       •   SDG 8: Decent work                        disclosure and trends in transparency
We make amendments to relevant                                                                                                     rather than precise measurements.
indicators where we feel they might                                                  •   SDG 12: Responsible
better align to these recent industry                                                    consumption and production
developments and to ensure the Index                                                 •   SDG 13: Climate action
remains a driver of best practice.
                                                                                     Within these 4 goals, we have honed
Sections 1 to 4 of the methodology                                                   in on issues that our team and
have remained largely the same                                                       advisors have identified as some of
from 2017 to 2019, with minor                                                        the sector’s most urgent challenges,
amendments to a handful of indicators                                                such as gender-based violence at
for clarity and alignment. For any                                                   work, the gender pay gap, freedom of
changes to existing indicators or                                                    association, living wages, purchasing
any proposed additional indicators                                                   practices, textile waste and recycling,
throughout the questionnaire, we                                                     circularity and climate footprint.
gather feedback from our pro bono
consultation committee advisors.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                     25

HOW WERE
THE 200 BRANDS                                                                                                 H OW M A N Y B R A N D S
SELECTED?                                                                                                      PA R T I C I PAT E D T H I S Y E A R ?

                                                                                                                    52%                            46%
                                                                                                                    did not respond                of brands completed
                                                                                                                                                   and returned a
Brands have been chosen on the                                    We have deliberately listed brands                                               questionnaire
basis of annual turnover representing                             in our report rather than the parent
over US$500 million and crossing                                  company because consumers will
a spread of market segments                                       be most familiar with brand names.
including high street, luxury, premium,
sportswear, accessories, footwear                                 98 out of the 200 brands and retailers
and denim from across Europe, North                               reviewed this year were included in the
America, South America and Asia.                                  2017 and 2018 report. A further 52 brands
                                                                  were reviewed in 2018 and again this
We relied on publicly available                                   year, for a total of 150 brands. There are
financial information to select brands                            50 new brands included in the report
and retailers. Some companies are                                 this year, for a total of 200 brands. In
privately held and do not publish                                 2020, we intend to expand the number
financial records, including turnover,                            of brands and retailers reviewed to 250.
which means we may not have
found them in our research.                                       Just a quick note: we often use
                                                                  the term 'brands' as short hand
Where brands are part of a parent                                 for both brands and retailers.
company with annual turnover
over US$500 million, we have
selected the brand or brands
                                                                                                                                              2%
that appear to make up the most                                                                                            declined the opportunity
significant part of their business.                                                                                   to complete the questionnaire

* In general, the scores for brands that are part of a parent company apply to all of the subsidiaries in
the parent company, not just the brands included in this report. There are some exceptions: for example,
George at ASDA and Walmart; Kering Group and LVMH.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2019                                                                                                                                                                                  26

A-Z OF BRANDS
                                                                                                                                                                                             = participated in brand questionarire

Abercrombie & Fitch                                  Cole Haan                                   Hudson's Bay (HBC)                           Mexx                                         Speedo (Pentland Group)
Adidas (Adidas Group)                               Columbia Sportswear                        Hugo Boss                                    Michael Kors (Capri Holdings)                Sports Direct
Aeropostale                                          Converse (Nike, Inc.)                      Intimissimi (Calzedonia Holding S.p.A.)       Miu Miu (Prada Group)                       Steve Madden
ALDI Nord (ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG)              Cortefiel (Tendam)                          Ito-Yokado (SEVEN&I HLDGS.)                   Mizuno                                       Stradivarius (Inditex) 
ALDI SOUTH (ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG)            Costco - Kirkland Signature                 J.Crew                                       Moncler                                      Superdry (SuperGroup plc.) 
ALDO (The Aldo Group Inc.)                          Debenhams                                  Jack & Jones (BESTSELLER)                    Monoprix (Casino Group)                      Takko
Amazon                                              Decathlon (Association Familiale Mulliez)   JCPenney                                      Monsoon                                     Target 
American Eagle (American Eagle Outfitters, Inc.)    Desigual                                   JD Sports (Pentland Group)                    MRP (Mr Price Group Limited)                 Tchibo 
ANTA (ANTA International)                           Diane Von Furstenberg                       Jessica Simpson (Sequentional Brands Group)   Muji (Ryohin Keikaku Group)                  Ted Baker
Anthropologie (URBN)                                Dick's Sporting Goods                       Joe Fresh (Loblaws Inc.)                      Neiman Marcus                                Tesco - F&F 
Armani (Giorgio Armani S.p.A)                       Diesel (OTB Group)                          John Lewis                                   New Balance                                 Tezenis (Calzedonia Holding S.p.A.)
ASICS                                                Dillards                                    Jordan (Nike, Inc.)                          New Look (Brait)                            The North Face (VF Corporation) 
ASOS                                                Dior (LVMH)                                 Kate Spade (Tapestry, Inc.)                  New York & Company (RTW Retailwinds, Inc.)   Timberland (VF Corporation) 
Banana Republic (Gap Inc.)                          Dolce & Gabbana                             KiK                                           NewYorker                                    TJ Maxx (TJX Companies Inc.) 
Barneys New York                                     Dressmann (VARNER)                         Kmart - Attention (Sears Holdings)            Next                                        Tod's
BCBGMAXAZRIA (Marquee Brands)                        DSW (Designer Brands)                       Kohl's                                        Nike (Nike, Inc.)                           Tom Ford
Beanpole (Samsung C&T Fashion Group)                 Eddie Bauer (Golden Gate Capital)           K-Way (BasicNet)                              Nine West                                    Tom Tailor 
Bershka (Inditex)                                   El Corte Inglés                            Lacoste (Maus Frères)                        Nordstrom                                   Tommy Bahama (Oxford Industries)
Bloomingdale's (Macy's Inc.)                         Elie Tahari                                 Lands' End (Sears Holdings)                   Old Navy (Gap Inc.)                         Tommy Hilfiger (PVH) 
Bonprix (Otto Group)                                Ermenegildo Zegna                           Levi Strauss & Co                            OVS                                         Topshop (Arcadia Group) 
boohoo                                               Esprit                                     Lidl                                         Patagonia                                   TOPVALU COLLECTION (AEON)
Bottega Veneta (Kering)                             Express                                     Lindex (Stockmann)                           Pimkie                                       Tory Burch
Brooks Brothers                                      Falabella (S.A.C.I.Falabella)              Li-Ning                                       Prada (Prada Group)                         Triumph
Brunello Cucinelli                                   Famous Footwear (Caleres)                   Liverpool (El Puerto de Liverpool)            Primark (Associated British Foods)          UGG (Deckers)
Buckle                                               Fanatics (Kynetic)                          LL Bean                                       Prisma (S Group)                            Under Armour
Burberry                                            Fendi (LVMH)                                LOFT (Ann Inc.)                              Pull&Bear (Inditex)                         Uniqlo (Fast Retailing) 
Burlington                                           Foot Locker                                 Longchamp                                     Puma                                        United Colors of Benetton 
C&A                                                 Forever 21                                  Louis Vuitton (LVMH)                          Ralph Lauren                                Urban Oufitters (URBN)
Calvin Klein (PVH)                                  Fossil (Fossil Group, Inc.)                 Lululemon                                    Reebok (Adidas Group)                       Valentino
Calzedonia (Calzedonia Holding S.p.A.)               Furla                                      Macy's (Macy's Inc.)                          REVOLVe                                      Van Heusen (PVH) 
Carolina Herrera (Puig)                              Gap (Gap Inc.)                             Mammut (Conzzeta)                            River Island                                 Vans (VF Corporation) 
CAROLL (Vivarte)                                     George at Asda (Walmart)                   Mango                                        Ross Dress for Less                          Vero Moda (BESTSELLER) 
Carrefour - TEX                                      Gildan                                     Marc Jacobs (LVMH)                            Russell Athletic (Fruit of the Loom)         Versace (Capri Holdings)
CELINE (LVMH)                                        G-Star RAW                                 Marks & Spencer                              s.Oliver                                    Very (Shop Direct)
Champion (Hanesbrands Inc.)                          Gucci (Kering)                             Marni (OTB Group)                             Sainsbury's - Tu Clothing                   Victoria's Secret (L Brands) 
Chanel                                               GUESS                                       Massimo Dutti (Inditex)                      SAINT LAURENT (Kering)                      Walmart 
Chico's                                              H&M                                        Matalan                                      Saks Fifth Avenue (HBC)                     Wrangler (VF Corporation) 
Claire's (Claire's Inc.)                             Hanes (Hanesbrands Inc.)                    Max Mara (MaxMaraFashionGroup)                Salvatore Ferragamo                          Youngor (Youngor Group Company Limited)
Clarks (C&J Clark International Limited)            Heilan Home (Helian Group Co.)              Merrell (Wolverine World Wide)                Sandro (SMCP)                               Zalando 
COACH (Tapestry, Inc.)                              Hermès                                      Metersbonwe                                   Skechers                                     Zara (Inditex) 
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