Fancy yarn The fashion effects
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Fancy yarn The fashion effects
Fancy yarn
Marzoli
Index
Slubbing effects
p. 05
Fully integrated system
p. 07
High performance
p. 07
Simple and immediate user interface
p. 08
High flexibility for high effects combinations
p. 08
No thin places or weak points
p. 09
Marzoli world reference
p. 09
Draw your slub
p. 10
MARZOLI 3 VOUK
Fancy yarn
The fashion effects
For several years fancy yarns have been essential exclusive designs used for all occasions today.
components of modern fashion and have been gaining
more importance in the clothing sector, especially denim, World production in the last 10 years has increased by
and in furnishing and draperies. Demand for complex over 50% and it is estimated that each year is sold a
fabrics with distinguishing characteristics is increasing, pair of jeans for every inhabitant of the planet.
conquering larger shares of the textile market.
The boom of quality fancy yarns has driven various
Thanks to modern spinning plants, yarn quality and spinning machines producers to acquire slubbing
regularity have reached very high levels, creating even devices capable of satisfying growing requests coming
and homogeneous fabrics. Some applications, however, from a growing market.
require a certain irregularity to give fabrics a sense of
movement and a unique look. The slubbing devices Marzoli has been the first manufacturer to introduce a
create some intentional defects in the yarn, yet they fully integrated fancy device on its spinning frames since
are controlled and free of weak points, producing 1999. The close cooperation between Marzoli and some
interesting effects and designs that give fabrics a unique of its customers, who are world-wide leaders in the
and recognizable look. These fabrics, often created by production of denim fabrics, have arrived to the creation
fashion designers, provide a higher contribution margin of a highly performing system that fully meets market
when compared with traditional fabrics, so more and needs. The constant efforts and studies at Marzoli,
more spinners are including fancy yarns in their product together with the experience acquired while working
range by employing new and more evolved integrated directly with the customers, have further improved and
slubbing devices. developed the Marzoli fancy device, which for all intents
Demand for denim fabrics is always raising; denim has and purposes, is the global leader of all integrated
gone from a basic, simple and durable fabric for work slubbing devices.
clothing in the ‘70s and ‘80s to a fashion fabric with
Worldwide denim production capacity
Worldwide Denim pruduction capacity
77
6,5
6,5
66
5,5
5,5
Million
Bilion 55
metres
metres
4,5
4,5
44
3,5
3,5
33
1990 1995 2000 2000 2010 2015
1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015
MARZOLI 4 VOUK
Fancy yarn
Slubbing effects
Slub yarn
Multi-count
Multi-twist
Reverse slub
There are four basic slubbing effects: slub, multi-count, multi-twist, and
reverse slub. The various combinations among these four can create infinite
yarn and fabric designs.
In order to produce slub yarns, we begin with a regular Multi-twist yarns have not count and drafting variations,
yarn defined as base. This yarn will have defined count but only a twist variation. The twist differential changes
and twist that are set up into the machine through a the yarn diameter and its response to dyeing, which
touch screen. The slubbing effect is obtained by a creates interesting light and dark areas in the yarn and
controlled variation on the drafting process. With the fabric.
Marzoli system to create a slub is as simple as setting
its length in millimetres, its thickness (multiplier) as a
percentage of the base yarn and the pause (distance
between one slub and the next) in millimetres. The
pause coincides with the base yarn, which is indicated
by the multiplier equal to -0-. Usually slubs have lengths
between 30 and 100 mm, but in some cases slubs are
even shorter to produce an effect called “malfile’”, i.e.
small and frequent slubs that create an effect of natural
irregularity. Thanks to last generation electronics,
high efficiency motors and special acceleration ramps As the slub, the reverse slub is obtained with a drafting
lower than 0,1 seconds, Marzoli’s slubbing device is variation that, in this case, is negative and reduces the
capable of producing slubs shorter than 20 mm without yarn thickness.
compromising yarn quality and strength.
Multi-count yarn has not a constant count and twist,
but it’s composed by sections of different yarn counts.
For each count a different desired twist is applied, based
on a selected constant “α”. The multi-count is therefore
obtained through a draft variation to modify the count
and the first cylinder speed to modify the twist.
MARZOLI 5 VOUK
Fancy yarn
Slub effects
The new Marzoli fancy device
• The Marzoli fancy device has been the first integrated Marzoli Fancy Yarn Features:
device in the world available on the market. • fully integrated system;
• Since its birth in 1999, it’s the world leader of • high standard level of performances and productivity;
the integrated fancy device (more than 300.000 • very friendly and simple HMI, with values in mm
spindles installed). and percentages;
• The integrated Marzoli device works in a perfect • great versatility and flexibility;
symbiosis with the Ring frame and grants high • motors acceleration and deceleration ramps up to
quality and high performances without interfere 10 m/s, with sinusoidal shapes and individually
with the usual performance of the machine. settable to produce yarn without weak points;
• automatic visualization of the graph related to
the present slub recipe in order to check the right
execution;
• automatic control of the slubs characteristics with
warning in case of not workable parameters;
• minimum slub length below 20 mm with a multiplier
of 1,80;
• multiplier up to 5 time the nominal count;
• up to 20 slubs per metre;
• slub formation without changing the front roller
speed, for a perfect distribution of the twist on the
yarn;
• 500 lines for 500 different slubs in a single recipe;
• automatic generation of the recipes inserting only
the minimum and maximum parameters with a
reading choice between “random”, “cycle” and
“Mcch” system;
• up to 10.000 different recipes saved into the
machine;
• connection to the Marzoli Spin Slub monitoring
system for the construction of the slub recipes by a
remote PC;
• with the new system “Draw your slub” you may
physically edit the shape of the slub through the
panel.
Brief history of Denim
The origins of the denim fabric go back to the beginning of the 1400. In those times Italian and French
weavers were competing to produce a heavy and strong fabric with the unique characteristic of having a
white weft and a blue warp yarn died with indigo, which is a vegetable substance derived from the plant
indigofera tintoria native of India.
The French fabric was named “denim” after the city of Nimes where it was produced and sewn. In Italy
it was named “bleu de Genes”, which means blue of Genoa, the city where it was produced and gave
the name to the blue-jeans.
In the mid Nineteenth century, a German tailor by the name of Straub used the Genoese fabric for the
first time to produce a pair of strong and hard-wearing work trousers for the workers of the many mines
that were being opened in the United States. In a short time those strong and distinctive pants, with
double stitching and metal rivets used to strengthen the pockets, became popular all over the world.
Today they are the single most diffused item of clothing.
(Fashion Magazine, may 2011)
MARZOLI 6 VOUK
Fancy yarn
Fully integrated system
High performance
The Marzoli fancy device does not require any additional
mechanical modifications to the spinning frame.
Twisting and drafting variations are accomplished by
simply modifying the speed on the independent motors
that are already installed on the spinning frame. Marzoli
fancy yarn is therefore capable of producing fancy yarns
of infinite forms and designs without requiring additional
maintenance.
All the options for the slubbing device that are produced
on the spinning frame have unmatched performance.
Thanks to independent drafting motors, high performance
electronics, and acceleration ramps up to 0,1 seconds,
it is possible to obtain slubs smaller than 20 mm with
over 20 slubs per metre.
MARZOLI 7 VOUK
Fancy yarn
Simple and immediate user interface
High flexibility for high effects combinations
One of the distinguishing characteristics of the Marzoli Slub combinations
slubbing device is its ease of use and simple settings.
Using a touch screen, users can quickly enter all data • S (Slub)
needed to create any combination of fancy yarns. The • MC (Multicount)
slubbing recipe can be easily originated on a remote • MT (Multitwist)
PC and then sent electronically to the machines in the • MC + MT
spinning department. They can also be easily transferred • MC + S
among different machines using a USB flash drive. • MT + S
• MC + MT + S
• RS (Reverse slub)
• RS + MC
• RS + MT
• RS + MC + MT
• SOS + MC
• SOS + MT
• SOS + MC + MT
Unlike other lesser performing slubbing devices,
Marzoli’s slubbing device can produce all four types
of slub and also combine them for an extensive range
of effects and designs. Its versatility, ease of use and
performance have helped the integrated slubbing device
to gain market segments that for a long time were
exclusively dominated by specialized manufacturers of
fancy yarns devices.
MARZOLI 8 VOUK
Fancy yarn
No thin places or weak points
Marzoli world reference
One of the main challenges of fancy yarns is the common
formation of thin and weak places at the end of the slubs
due to the motor deceleration. These potential defects are
fairly common when using traditional slubbing devices
and they can compromise downstream processing. With
the Marzoli integrated slubbing device, these defects
are completely eliminated thanks to the use of special
curves for the acceleration and deceleration of the
drafting motors that have been developed by Marzoli
using a special algorithm.
Since its inception in 1999, Marzoli’s integrated
slubbing device has been supplied with success all over
the world to numerous clients industry leaders.
TRC Candiani Italy
Ital Denim Italy
Manifattura di Cene Italy
Berto Italy
Gruppo Tavex Morocco
Raymond India
Spentex India
Gruppo Cone USA
Parkdale USA
Canatiba Brazil
Vicunha Brazil
Cotam Group Turkmenistan
Engine Group Turkmenistan
Sirikcioglu Turkey
Bossa Turkey
Kipas Denim Turkey
Phong Phu Vietnam
Riaz Pakistan
DNM Egypt
Denim de l’Ile Mauritius
MARZOLI 9 VOUK
Fancy yarn
Draw your slub
The new patented Marzoli system to edit the fancy yarn recipes
In the competitors devices the slub recipe is created
through a table where the three parameters, length of
the slub, multiplier and length of the break, are manually
edited.
With the innovative and patented Marzoli system, the
slub is drawn in a dedicated editor and then the Ring
Frame will follow the desired profile.
“Draw Your Slub” system works as follow:
• the operator draws the slub through the dedicated
editor;
• the operator gives an identification number to the
new slub;
• the new slub (identification number) is recalled into
the slub table.
The editor is very simple:
making a double click on the panel, single points are
created and later on connected with lines.
The line shows the trend of the multiplier, i.e. the
diameter of the slub (y) according to the length of the
slub (x).
Once the editing is over an identification number is given
to the slub. Later on in the slub table this identification
number is recalled and the operator has to insert the
length and the break of the slub drawn.
MARZOLI 10 VOUKFancy yarn
Draw your slub
Example of drawn slub
Through the editor we create a slub with a saw tooth
shape.
We give to this drawing the identification number “5”.
We close the editor and we go back to the slub table.
In the slub table we recall the slub identified with the
number “5”, we set as a slub length 200 mm and a
as break length 400 mm. Then always using the slub
number “5” we set a slub length 100 mm and a break
length 150 mm.
Slub 1 and 2 have the same shape (saw tooth) but
different lengths, the first one 200 mm while the second
one is 100 mm. This because at the slub drawing
identified with the number “5” has been related two
different lengths (line 1 and 2). If required the break
may be eliminated in order to obtain a yarn completed
drawn, and to do so it is enough to set the length break
equal to 0 mm.
MARZOLI 11 VOUKFancy yarn
Draw your slub
This system gives us enormous advantages, most important all kind of
drawings are achievable. In the traditional system (competitors) the slub
may have only one constant diameter according to the set multiplier, while
with the Marzoli system the diameter may vary infinite times on every single
slub (according to its length). So each slub may have any shape and drawing.
In the traditional devices in order to obtain specific drawings the operator
need to enter a lot of lines program, with the Marzoli device it is enough to
draw the desired shape and use it as much as we wish.
For example this “Slub On Slub” effect.
Previously in the traditional system these three lines
were required to be set:
Slub length = 100, Multiplier =1,8 Break length =0
Slub length = 100, Multiplier=2,5 Break length =0
Slub length = 100, Multiplier=1,8 Break length =200
“Now to obtain the same effect it is enough to create the
desired shape of ”slub on slub”; identify it with a number
(“6 for example”) and recall it with the line.
ID= 6, Slub length =300, Break length =200
Another advantage is that with this system all the
acceleration ramps are completely settable, also
because the ramps are part of the drawings or at least
may determinate the final shape. In the “old” system
only a fix inclination was available, now the inclination
may vary slub by slub.
An additional feature is that with this system we may
gradually change the count on long portions of yarn, we
may create “incremental multicount” with a single and
simple drawing inserting only the desirable length. With
the “old” system hundreds of programmed lines were
required.
An additional feature is that with this system we may
gradually change the count on long portions of yarn, we
may create “incremental multicount” with a single and
simple drawing inserting only the desirable length. With
the “old” system hundreds of programmed lines were
required.
MARZOLI 12 VOUKFancy yarn
Note
MARZOLI 13 VOUKFancy yarn
Note
MARZOLI 14 VOUKFancy yarn
Note
“The text and format of this brochure can be changed
any time with the change in policy matters.”
MARZOLI 15 VOUKComplete
Spinning System
Short Staple Fibre
- Carded Cotton
- Combed Cotton
Spinning Section - Man-made Fibres and Blends
Draw Frames Combing Section
Carding Section
Opening Section
Galileo
V i a S. A lbe r t o , 10 - 250 3 6 Pa l a z z o l o s / O , B r e s c i a - I taly
Tel. +39 030 7309 1 - Fax +39 030 7309 365 - sales@marzoli.it
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