Consumer attitude and behavior in the ethical fashion industry - Exposé Submitted by Marlène Favier European Master in Business Studies University ...

Page created by Eddie Sandoval
 
CONTINUE READING
____________________________________________

  Consumer attitude and behavior in the ethical
                         fashion industry

                                Exposé
              ___________________________________________

                             Submitted by
                            Marlène Favier
                  European Master in Business Studies
                          University of Kassel

Kassel, Germany                                       21st October 2013
Abstract

Title: Consumer attitude and behavior in the ethical fashion
industry

Keywords: Consumer, attitude, behavior, ethical fashion, attitude-
behavior gap, France

Background: Over the last few years, increasing awareness and c o n c e r n s in the
ethical industry have been experienced. After a particular attention has been paid to
the food industry, this understanding started to be expanded to the fashion
i n d u s t r y . Indeed, the study of ethical apparel industry is gaining more and
more stature on the literature as its impacts on environment are steadily increasing.
To understand this industry, a special focus on the attitude and behavior of ethical
fashion consumers is also given. However, a problem is raised: even if people
are much more concerned about ethical fashion than it used to be, an attitude-
behavior gap is noticed as people do not transform this consciousness into
purchase.

Purpose: Therefore, the aim of the study is to provide a better knowledge of the
ethical fashion consumption in the French market. The latter is done through an
analysis o f the different drivers and barriers that influence the attitude-behavior gap
in the ethical apparel industry.

Method: The collection of qualitative a n d q u a n t i t a t i v e information will be
done through a n o n l i n e q u e s t i o n n a i r e sent to the French market. The
respondents will be between 18 and 30 years old.
Consumer attitude and behavior in the ethical fashion industry

Table of contents

ABSTRACT ..................................................................................................................... 2

1.    INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................... 3

2.    PROBLEM STATEMENT AND RESEARCH QUESTION ....................................... 4

     2.1   PROBLEM STATEMENT ........................................................................................... 4

     2.2   RESEARCH QUESTION ............................................................................................ 5

     2.3   HYPOTHESES ........................................................................................................ 5

3.    THEORETICAL BACKGROUND ............................................................................. 6

4.    REVIEW OF LITERATURE ...................................................................................... 7

     4.1   APPAREL INDUSTRY ............................................................................................... 7

       4.1.1 Fashion industry ............................................................................................ 7

       4.1.2 Theory of reasoned action/planned behavior ................................................ 8

     4.2   ETHICAL APPAREL INDUSTRY.................................................................................. 9

       4.2.1 Ethical fashion ............................................................................................... 9

       4.2.2 Modified theory of planned behavior ........................................................... 13

       4.2.3 Attitude-Intention-Behavior gap ................................................................... 15

5.    METHODOLOGY: QUESTIONNAIRE ................................................................... 17

6.    OVERVIEW OF CHAPTERS .................................................................................. 18

7.    WORK PLAN .......................................................................................................... 19
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry

            1. Introduction
Nowadays, one can observe that there is a global growth of people’s concerns
regarding the environment. Individuals recognize the need to act differently in a
world that suffers from the overconsumption of the human beings.
This consciousness is noticeable with the purchases’ increase of ethical products,
especially in the food industry. However, this trend is also gaining ground in the
apparel industry. The ethical purchase of garments is predicted to rise in the
mainstream society like the growth already experienced by the “green food and
green cosmetics” industries (Cervellon & Wernerfelt, 2012, p.177).
The mass consumption in the apparel industry has a crucial impact on
environment. Bray (2009) stated that “European Union and the Department for
Environment, Food and Rural Affairs have highlighted that clothing are high impact
accounting for 5-10% of the EUs total environmental impact”. The major effects on
the environment are related to the use of pesticides that infects other products
such as food for instance. Chemicals are also used in an extensive way which
might have some repercussions on environment and human health. Furthermore,
a lot of clothes are discarded as soon as people consider them too old or not trendy
anymore. This increases the number of textiles wastes and damages the
environment. The intense usage of machines and natural resources also causes
noise, sound and air pollution (Challa, 2010).
In order to fight against these environmental impacts, there i s a substantial
development of the ethical fashion. According to Joergens, ethical fashion is
defined as “fashionable clothes that incorporate fair trade principles with sweatshop-
free labor conditions while not harming the environment or workers by using
biodegradable and organic cotton” (2006, p.361).
Nevertheless, it seems to be controversial to bind ethical and fashion since fashion
is a fast-moving good. Indeed, the apparel industry is distinguished by “rapid
changes in styles, novelty and mass consumption” (Shaw et al., 2006, p.430).
Therefore, this notion appears to be conflicting to the ethical idea of consumption.
In order to understand the ethical fashion consumption, it is undeniable that a
study of buyers’ attitude and behavior is required. The theories of reasoned action
and planned behavior help to acquire a better knowledge of consumer behavior.
However, a “gap between what consumers say about the importance of ethical
issues and what they do at the checkout counter” has been identified during the
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                             4

purchase of ethical products (Auger and Devinney, 2007, p.361).
Therefore, this paper aims to analyze the attitude-behavior gap in the fashion
clothing industry with a special focus on the French market. While French
consumers declare that they are enticed to buy products with the label “Made In
France”, a better quality and less impact on environment, the ranking of the top
three companies in France indicates the opposite. I n d e e d , t h e t h r e e f i r m s
Vivarte, KIABI Europe and Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) do represent the rapidly
changes of collections at a reasonable price which points the paradox (Euromonitor
International, 2013).
In order to reach the goal of the paper, a review of the previous literature is done.
First of all, the attention is placed on a brief understanding of the fashion industry
and consumers’ attitudes and behavior when purchasing garments. Then, an
analysis of the so-called theory of reasoned action and theory of planned behavior
is given. Afterwards, an examination of the factors that influence behavior when
buying an ethical cloth is proceeded with the help of the modified theory of
planned behavior. Subsequently, an evaluation of the gap that occurs between the
attitude and behavior is made. Finally, a deep study of the French consumers’
attitude and behavior is made through questionnaire. According to the results, some
conclusions are provided as well as tactics in order to develop the consumption.

                2. Problem statement and research question
                2.1 Problem statement

As previously mentioned, the attention is given to the French market as the latter lacks
studies in the field. Indeed, the ethical apparel industry is a quite new phenomenon in
France and only a small number of sources are available. Besides, as formerly
discussed, an attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion French market is also
identifiable.
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                        5

            2.2 Research question

The following research question was designed:
 “What are the main drivers and barriers influencing the attitude-behavior gap in
                       the ethical fashion in the French market?”

            2.3 Hypotheses

In order to answer the research question, the following hypotheses should be verified
thanks to the methodology.

Before going in depth in the attitude-behavior gap, a focus on one element which
influences the intention is required. When analyzing British and German consumers,
Joergens discovered that ethical awareness and concerns do not “significantly affect
their purchase decisions” (2006, p.369). However it seems interesting to find out if this
statement can be validated with the French population. Therefore the following
hypotheses were designed:
H1a: Ethical awareness does not have a significant influence on the intention in
the ethical fashion purchasing process.
H1b: Ethical concerns do not have a significant influence on the intention in the
ethical fashion purchasing process.

Thanks to the theory of planned behavior, one is aware that attitude influences
intention and then behavior (Ajzen & Fishbein, 1980). However according to Shaw,
Shiu, Hassan, Bekin, and Hogg (2007), the “attitude does not directly impact
intention but rather required the motivational stage of desire” when it comes to the
apparel industry (p.34). Niinimäki, (2010) confirmed that desire is a driver to reach
the purchase. Thus, the following hypothesis was created:
H2: The presence of desire has a positive impact on the attitude-behavior gap
in the ethical fashion purchasing process

According to Niinimäki (2010), ethical consumer commitment is a driver that leads to
the purchase of eco-clothes. Gupta and Ogden (2006) added that the level of
consumer involvement is a way to consolidate the attitude-behavior gap. As a
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                          6

consequence, the following hypothesis was designed:
H3: A h i g h level of consumer involvement has a positive impact on the
attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion purchasing process.

As reported by Jägel, Keeling, Reppel, and Gruber (2012), individual values such as
“value for money, image and well-being” are purchasing drivers in the ethical clothing
industry (p.373). Moreover, thanks to the interviews realized by Sudbury and Böltner
(2011) on young urban adults in United Kingdom and Germany, it has been found out
that individuality maintains the attitude-behavior gap. Therefore, the hypothesis is:
H4: Individual values maintain the attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion
purchasing process.

According to Hassan, Shaw, Shiu, Walsh, and Parry (2013), uncertainty plays a major
role in the ethical consumption process. The more uncertainty is present the more
difficult the purchase is. Thus, the following hypothesis was conceived:
H5:   Uncertainty has a negative impact on the attitude-behavior gap in the
ethical fashion purchasing process.

Many studies mentioned the fact that ethical consumption is influenced by the price
(Chan & W.Y. Wong, 2012; Joergens, 2006). Therefore, the hypothesis is:
H6: Price has a negative influence on the attitude-behavior gap in the
ethical fashion purchasing process.

            3. Theoretical background
The theories of reasoned action and planned behavior were adopted in order to analyze
and explain consumer behaviors in ethical contexts. The theory of reasoned action was
designed for behavior under volitional control. It relies on the fact that the behavior
results from the intention. The latter is then influenced, on one side by the attitude and
on the other side, by the subjective norm. The behavioral beliefs and the outcome
evaluation impact the attitude. Regarding the subjective norm, it is determined by the
normative beliefs and the motivation to comply. The theory of planned behavior is an
extension of the theory of reasoned action that is applied for non-volitional behaviors. It
also differs from the theory of reasoned action in the addition of the notion of perceived
behavioral control as a driver of both the intention and the behavior.
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                  7

               4. Review of literature
               4.1 Apparel industry

               4.1.1 Fashion industry
   TOPIC          TITLE / SOURCE        REFERENCE                        CONTENT
Fashion           A theory on          (Ma, Shi,          A definition of fashion is provided
definition –      fashion              Chen, and          as well as an analysis of the
Psychologica      consumption /        Luo, 2012)         relationship     between       innovation,
l motives and     Journal of                              classic and prevalence. It is noticed
behavior in       Management &                            that fashion consumption can be
fashion           Strategy                                segmented into two categories:
consumption                                               social consumption motives and
                                                          individual motives. Regarding the
                                                          psychological motives, they can be
                                                          divided into two groups: rational
                                                          motives and perceptual motives.
                                                          Besides,       the    buying      process
                                                          decision    in       fashion    can    be
                                                          categorized into three categories:
                                                          high, medium and low influence
                                                          purchasing. They are all linked to
                                                          perceived        risks    and      habits
                                                          (cognitive resistance).
Influencing       Apparel shopping     (Du Preez,         A theoretical model with a macro-
variables on      behavior – Part 1:   2003)              approach of factors impacting the
apparel           Towards the                             apparel     shopping       behavior     is
shopping          development of a                        developed. It includes the market-
behavior          conceptual                              dominated        variables       (product,
                  theoretical model                       promotion, price, place) and the
                  / SA Journal of                         consumer        dominated       variables
                  Industrial                              (demographics,            social-cultural
                  Psychology                              influences and the psychological
                                                          fields).
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                      8

              4.1.2 Theory of reasoned action/planned behavior
   TOPIC         TITLE / SOURCE         REFERENCE                        CONTENT
Theory of        Understanding         (Ajzen &           The theory of reasoned action
reasoned         attitudes and         Fishbein,          emerges. The latter relies on the
action           predicting social     1980)              fact that attitude and subjective
                 behavior                                 norm lead to the intention and then,
                                                          behavior.
Theory of        From intentions to    (Ajzen, 1985)      The author improves the theory of
planned          actions: A theory                        reasoned       action            with      the
behavior         of planned                               introduction    of        the        perceived
                 behavior / Action                        behavioral     control          as    another
                 control: From                            influence variable on the intention.
                 cognition to                             This theory is named theory of
                 behavior                                 planned behavior.
Theory of        The theory of         (Ajzen, 1991)      The theory of planned behavior
planned          planned behavior                         receives further research in order
behavior         / Organizational                         to confirm the utility of the model.
                 Behavior and
                 Human Decision
                 Processes
Influence of     Intending to be       (Shaw, Shiu,       Two other variables are added to
desire and       ethical: An           Hassan, Bekin,     the theory of planned behavior
plan on the      examination of        and Hogg,          when    testing      in     the        apparel
variables of     consumer choice       2007)              industry: the desire and the plan.
the theory of    in sweatshop                             The first one occurs between the
planned          avoidance /                              attitude and the intention and the
behavior         Advances in                              second one has, between the
                 Consumer                                 intention and the behavior.
                 Research
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                 9

               4.2 Ethical apparel industry

               4.2.1 Ethical fashion
   TOPIC          TITLE / SOURCE        REFERENCE                      CONTENT
Ethical           Ethical fashion:     (Joergens,         First of all, the author provides a
fashion           myth or future       2006)              definition of ethical fashion. Then
definition –      trend? / Journal                        she evaluates the awareness of
Awareness,        of Fashion                              ethical     issues      on        fashion
behavior,         Marketing &                             consumers (in United Kingdom and
attitudes         Management                              Germany), its resulting behavior
towards                                                   and effects on purchase. Finally
ethical                                                   she analyses consumer’s attitudes
fashion                                                   towards ethical fashion. Price, style
                                                          and quality seem to be the main
                                                          drivers when buying an ethical
                                                          garment.
Ethical           Fashion victim:      (Shaw, Hogg,       The     authors   study      consumers’
consumers’        The impact of fair   Wilson, Shui,      ethical    intentions        to    avoid
intentions,       trade concerns on    and Hassan,        sweatshop purchases, their actual
behaviors         clothing choice /    2006)              behaviors and constraints when
and               Journal of                              purchasing an ethical garment.
constraints       Strategic
                  Marketing
Consumers’        Mode et              (Chaballier &      The results after the diffusion of a
purchasing        consummation         Ruelle, 2009)      survey are discussed. The latter
behavior in       responsible:                            aims to understand consumers’
the French        Regards des                             purchasing behavior in the ethical
market            consommateurs /                         fashion industry in the French
                  Institut français                       market. The following points are
                  de la mode                              studied:   awareness,        purchasing
                                                          criteria, barriers and expectations.
Analysis of       Eco-clothing,        (Niinimäki,        The ethical purchasing decisions
the ethical       consumer identity    2010)              process is analyzed. The latter
purchasing        and ideology /                          relies on the construction of self
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                      10

process          Sustainable                              and the ongoing change process
                 Development                              people        are          confronted       to.
                                                          Consumer           commitment,        wishes,
                                                          needs, values, desires, aesthetic
                                                          and emotions are drivers to the
                                                          reaching point of purchase.
Y                Young generation      (Hill & Lee,       A special focus on Y consumers is
consumers’       Y consumers’          2012)              given with the aim to analyze their
perceptions      perceptions of                           awareness and concerns about
                 sustainability in                        sustainability        in      the     fashion
                 the apparel                              industry. It results that they lack
                 industry / Journal                       knowledge          and      need      to    be
                 of Fashion                               educated.
                 Marketing &
                 Management
Attributes       Individual values     (Jägel,            The relation between attributes and
and values       and motivational      Keeling,           values when purchasing an ethical
relationship     complexities in       Reppel, and        product is analyzed. Five patterns
                 ethical               Gruber, 2012)      emerge after conducting a semi-
                 consumption: A                           qualitative        laddering         approach
                 means-end                                based      on       environmental          and
                 approach /                               altruist ethical concerns, individual
                 Journal of                               motives       of    value      for    money,
                 Marketing                                personal image and well-being.
                 Management
Eco-fashion      The consumption       (Chan & W.Y.       The      eco-fashion           consumption
consumption      side of               Wong, 2012)        decision process is affected by
impacted by      sustainable                              three     variables:         product-related
product-         fashion supply-                          attributes, store-related attributes
related          Understanding                            and premium price. Some tactics
attributes,      fashion consumer                         should be employed in order to
store-related    eco-fashion                              develop a good perception around
attributes       consumption                              these variables.
and premium      decision / Journal
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                         11

price            of Fashion
                 Marketing &
                 Management
Policies –       The influence of      (Iwanow,            An overview of different policies
Focus on the     ethical trading       McEachern,          (corporate        codes        of    conduct,
Gap              policies on           and Jeffrey,        conventions…)           that      have     been
company          consumer apparel      2005)               implemented to deal with ethical
                 purchase                                  issues       is   described.         Then,        a
                 decisions-A focus                         special       attention     on       the     gap
                 on the gap Inc. /                         company is given.
                 International
                 Journal of Retail
                 & Distribution
                 Management
Guarantees       Memento de la         (Délégation         In order to guarantee the reliability
for an ethical   mode éthique /        interministériell   of     an     ethical      product,        some
product          Sicom 06071,          eà                  guarantees are presented which
                 Parimage              l'innovation,       include the involvement of public
                                       à                   authorities, work of associations,
                                       l'expérimentati     manifestations          organization         and
                                       on sociale et à     label creation.
                                       l'économie
                                       sociale, 2006)
Tactics to       Avoiding green        (Ottman,            The         authors       mention          some
increase         marketing             Stafford, and       strategies that could be employed
consumer         myopia-Ways to        Hartman,            to     increase         ethical      products’
value and        improve               2006)               perception          with       the         green
avoid green      consumer appeal                           marketing. The latter should be
marketing        for                                       based on five criteria to raise a
myopia           environmentally                           green consumer value: efficiency
                 preferable                                and cost effectiveness; health and
                 products /                                safety;      performance;           symbolism
                 Environment                               and status; and convenience. To
                                                           avoid       green     marketing       myopia,
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                      12

                                                          three      principals         should         be
                                                          employed:           consumer              value
                                                          positioning, calibration of consumer
                                                          knowledge       and        credibility       of
                                                          products claims.
Information      The influence of      (Valor, 2007)      The author studies the influence of
impact when      information about                        information         when       buying           a
buying a         labor abuses on                          garment.      Some       differences          in
cloth            consumer choice                          cognition, motivation and behavior
                 of clothes: A                            are       noticed       due         to      the
                 grounded theory                          interdependent link between ethical
                 approach /                               obligation, conflicting identities and
                 Journal of                               personal action to change.
                 Marketing
                 Management
Label            Labeling fashion      (Aspers, 2008)     The author proposes a label for
proposal         markets /                                fashion      garments          to        inform
                 International                            consumers       about         the        ethical
                 Journal of                               aspects of the products.
                 Consumer
                 Studies
Consumers’       Effects of social     (Hustvedt &        Some impacts on attitude are
willingness to   responsibility        Bernard, 2010)     revealed when information on an
pay for a        labeling and                             ethical    product      are    added         for
premium          brand willingness                        instance labor information. It is
price for        to pay for apparel                       noticed that consumers are willing
added            / International of                       to pay a higher price when this
information      Consumer                                 information is mentioned.
                 Studies
Knowledge        The impact of         (Shen, Wang,       A research model of consumer
and support      ethical fashion on    Lo, and Shum       purchase      behavior         on        ethical
relationship     consumer              2012)              fashion is given. It emerges that
                 purchase                                 concerns, knowledge and beliefs
                 behavior / Journal                       about sweatshops and eco-fashion
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                      13

                   of Fashion                             lead     to    a    higher      degree      of
                   Marketing &                            willingness        to    pay    for    ethical
                   Management                             products.       Consumer         education,
                                                          advertisements           with   social     and
                                                          messages           and    participation     of
                                                          consumers, designers and retailers
                                                          are mentioned as crucial points to
                                                          increase ethical fashion purchases.
Important          Knowledge              (Cervellon &    The article proves that the role of
role of online     sharing among          Wernerfelt,     online        communities         can       be
communities        green fashion          2012)           considered as a useful way that
                   communities                            spreads            knowledge           among
                   online / Journal of                    customers.
                   Fashion
                   Marketing &
                   Management

                4.2.2 Modified theory of planned behavior
   TOPIC           TITLE / SOURCE         REFERENCE                       CONTENT
Impact of          The contribution       (Shaw, Shiu,    The authors study the impact of
self-identity      of ethical             and Clarke,     ethical obligation and self-identity
and ethical        obligation and         2000)           on the theory of planned behavior
obligation on      self-identity to the                   and      more       precisely         on   the
intention in       theory of planned                      intention.
the theory of      behavior: An
planned            exploration of
behavior           ethical
                   consumers /
                   Journal of
                   Marketing
                   Management
Impact of          In search of fair      (Ozcaglar-      An analysis of the two variable,
self-identity      trade: Ethical         Toulouse,       self-identity and ethical obligation,
and ethical        consumer               Shiu, and       is evaluated in the ethical decisions
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                14

obligation on    decision making       Shaw, 2006)        in the French market
intention in     in France /
the theory of    International
planned          Journal of
behavior         Consumer
                 Studies
Influence of     What we believe       (Fukukawa &        The        authors     report        that
social norms     is not always         Ennew, 2010)       questionable behavior in ethical
and              what we do: An                           contexts cannot be explained by
perceived        empirical                                the ethical judgment. Thus, they
unfairness       investigation into                       recommend the addition of social
on intention -   ethically                                norm (instead subjective norm) and
Criticism of     questionable                             perceived unfairness as impacts
ethical          behavior in                              variables on intention to purchase.
judgment         consumption /
                 Journal of
                 Business Ethics
Introduction     An extension of       (Celuch & Dill,    The theory of reasoned action is
of the ethical   the theory of         2011)              extended with the addition of the
judgment in      reasoned action                          ethical judgment as an impact
the theory of    in ethical decision                      variable on the intention. This study
reasoned         contexts: The role                       is realized in the ethical decision-
action           of normative                             making process.
                 influence and
                 ethical judgment /
                 Journal of
                 Education for
                 Business
Uncertainty:     Uncertainty in the    (Hassan,           Firstly,    a   definition      of   the
definition,      ethical consumer      Shaw, Shiu,        uncertainty is developed. Then, the
causes,          choice: A             Walsh, and         causes of the uncertainty and
outcomes         conceptual model      Parry, 2013)       outcomes of the uncertainty are
and solutions    / Journal of                             mentioned. Some solutions are
                 Consumer                                 finally provided in order to avoid
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                 15

                 Behaviors                                the uncertainty.

              4.2.3 Attitude-Intention-Behavior gap
   TOPIC         TITLE / SOURCE         REFERENCE                       CONTENT
Definition of    The attitude-         (Gupta &           A definition of the gap is given.
a gap - Ways     behavior gap in       Ogden, 2006)       Besides, the level of consumer
to fortify the   environmental                            involvement     and    the    perceived
gap              consumerism /                            consumer          effectiveness        are
                 APUBEF                                   provided as ways to consolidate
                 Proceedings                              the     attitude-behavior    gap      that
                                                          exists in the ethical consumption.

Explanation      Why ethical           (Carrington,       A special focus on the intention-
of the           consumers don’t       Neville, and       behavior gap is made in the ethical
intention-       walk their talk:      Whitwell,          purchase process. Three variables
behavior gap     Towards a             2010)              take part in this gap: the added
with the role    framework for                            implementation        intentions,      the
of three other   understanding the                        actual behavioral control and the
variables        gap between the                          situational context. They all play a
                 ethical purchase                         crucial role between the intention
                 intentions and                           and the behavior that leads to the
                 actual buying                            purchase.
                 behavior of
                 ethically minded
                 consumers /
                 Journal of
                 Business Ethics
Attitude-        Fashion               (Sudbury &         Young     urban     adults   in     United
behavior         marketing and the     Böltner, 2011)     Kingdom and Germany have been
held by the      ethical movement                         interviewed in order to evaluate the
Individualism    versus                                   attitude-behavior gap. It appears
                 individualistic                          that individuality plays a major role
                 consumption:                             in maintaining of this gap.
                 Analyzing the
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                16

                 attitude behavior
                 gap / Advances in
                 Consumer
                 Research –
                 European
                 Conference
                 Proceedings
Behavior         Mind the gap:         (Kollmuss &        Some theoretical frameworks are
affected by      Why do people         Agyeman,           reviewed in order to analyze the
demographic      act                   2002)              gap. It appears that demographic,
, external       environmentally                          external and internal factors affect
and internal     and what are the                         the behavior. Finally a model pro-
factors          barriers to pro-                         environmental behavior is provided
                 environmental                            with    the   different   barriers   that
                 behavior? /                              obstruct the achievement of a
                 Environmental                            concerned behavior.
                 Education
                 Research
Measures to      Sustainable           (Young,            The authors provide some criteria
reduce the       consumption:          Hwang,             in order to close the gap between
gap              Green consumer        McDonald, and      attitudes and behavior: consumer
                 behavior when         Oates, 2010)       value, purchase experience, time
                 purchasing                               for research, knowledge,
                 products /                               availability of ethical products and
                 Sustainable                              affordable price.
                 Development
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                      17

              5. Methodology: Questionnaire

Setting: The questionnaire will be spread online in January 2014.

Participants: The sample of the questionnaire will be composed by French people
between 18 and 30 years. The respondents are chosen first of all because they will
represent the consumer of tomorrow. Young people are also more interested in
fashion and more educated than older ones. They will be selected through online
platforms and personal contacts.

Measurement instruments: Software for online survey: Sphinx.

Data analysis: Qualitative, open questions, and quantitative techniques, m a i n l y
L i k e r t s c a l e q u e s t i o n s , will be employed.

Content: As mentioned in the section 2.1, very few studies have been designed and
allow a deep analysis of the French market patterns. Therefore, it is necessary to
employ different techniques through a questionnaire in order to cover a large
geographical area: France. Thanks to the survey, the behaviors, opinions, motives,
expectations and profile of the sample will be discovered and the hypotheses would be
confirmed or disconfirmed. The sample is estimated through Raosoft, an online sample
size calculator. Taking into account that the age of the respondents should be between
18 and 30 years old, the total sample amounts 10,300,859 people (Institut national de la
statistique et des etudes économiques, 2013). According to Raosoft, with an error
margin of 5%, a confidence level of 95% and a response distribution of 50%, the
approximate number of people to reach is 385.
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry   18

             6. Overview of chapters
Abstract
List of content
List of tables
List of abbreviations
    1. Introduction
        1.1 Research problem
        1.2 Topic importance
        1.3 Contributions
        1.4 Thesis structure
    2. Research question and hypotheses
        2.1 Problem statement
        2.2 Research question
        2.3 Hypotheses
    3. Literature review and theoretical background
        3.1 Fashion industry
            3.1.1   Definition of fashion
            3.1.2   Theory of planned action
            3.1.3   Theory of planned behavior
        3.2 Ethical apparel industry
            3.2.1   Ethical fashion definition
            3.2.2   Modified theory of reasoned action/plan
            3.2.3   Attitude-intention-behavior gap
    4. Research methodology
        4.1 Method: Questionnaire
            4.1.1   Setup
            4.1.2   Execution
            4.1.3   Results
        4.2 Summary of results
        4.3 Concerns for validity
    5. Conclusion
        5.1 Implications for companies
        5.2 Limitations of the study
        5.3 Suggestions for further researchers
    6. Bibliography
    7. Appendix
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                                 19

            7. Work plan
    PERIOD OF TIME                         PHASE                         OBJECTIVE
01.10.13 – 11.11.13             Research phase                    Elaboration and adjustment
                                                                  of the exposé
12.11.13 – 09.12.13             Theory phase                      Literature     review       and
                                                                  development          of      the
                                                                  theoretical section of the
                                                                  master thesis
10.12.13 – 31.12.13             Methodology phase                 Development of the survey
10.12.13 – 23.01.14             Intermediate presentation         Elaboration          of      the
                                                                  presentation         and     the
                                                                  intermediate report
01.01.14 – 31.01.14             Analysis phase                    Focus groups and spread
                                                                  of the questionnaire
01.02.14 – 28.02.14             Evaluation phase                  Evaluation of the results
01.03.14 – deadline             Finalization phase                Finalization of the master
                                                                  thesis: review, adjustment,
                                                                  preparation     of    the   final
                                                                  report and presentation
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                            20

Bibliography
Ajzen, I. & Fishbein, M. (1980). Understanding attitudes and predicting social behavior.
        Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall.
Ajzen, I. (1985). “From intention to actions: A theory of planned behavior”, in Action-
        control: From cognition to behavior (pp. 11-39). Heidelberg, Germany: Springer
Ajzen, I. (1991). The theory of planned behavior. Organizational Behavior and Human
        Decision Processes, 50, 179-211.
Aspers, P. (2008). Labeling fashion markets. International Journal of Consumer
        Studies, 32(6), 633-638. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2008.00724.x
Bray, J.P. (2009). Ethical dimensions in clothing purchase. In: First Annual Ethics in
        Everyday Life Conference, 17/19 March 2009, Salzburg.
Carrington, M., Neville, B., Whitwell, G. (2010). Why ethical consumers don’t walk their
        talk: Towards a framework for understanding the gap between the ethical
        purchase intentions and actual buying behavior of ethically minded consumers.
        Journal of Business Ethics, 97(1), 139-158. doi: 10.1007/s10551-010-0501-6
Celuch, K.& Dill, A. (2011). An extension of the theory of reasoned action in ethical
        decision contexts: The role of normative influence and ethical judgment. Journal
        of Education for Business, 86(4), 201-207. doi: 10.1080/08832323.2010.502913
Cervellon, M.C., Wernerfelt, A.S. (2012). Knowledge sharing among green fashion
        communities online. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 16(2), 176-
        192. doi: 10.1108/13612021211222860
Chaballier, E. & Ruelle, N. (2009). Mode et consummation responsible: Regards des
        consommateurs. Institut français de la mode.
Challa, L. (2010). Impact of textiles and Clothing industry on the environment: Approach
        towards        eco-friendly        textiles.       Online          available     under
        http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/textile-industry-articles/impact-of-
        textiles-and-clothing-industry-on-environment/impact-of-textiles-and-clothing-
        industry-on-environment2.asp, retrieved 16.10.2013
Chan, T. & Wong, C. (2012). The consumption side of sustainable fashion supply-
        Understanding fashion consumer eco-fashion consumption decision. Journal of
        Fashion       Marketing       &      Management,          16(2),      193-215.    doi:
        10.1108/13612021211222824
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                        21

Délégation interministérielle à l'innovation, à l'expérimentation sociale et à l'économie
        sociale (2006). Memento de la mode éthique. Sicom 06071, Parimage.
Du Preez, R. (2003). Apparel shopping behavior – Part 1: Towards the development of
        a conceptual theoretical model. SA Journal of Industrial Psychology, 29(3), 11-
        14.
Euromonitor International (2013): Apparel in France.
Fukukawa, K. & Ennew, C. (2010). What we believe is not always what we do: An
        empirical investigation into ethically questionable behavior in consumption.
        Journal of Business Ethics, 91(1), 49-60. doi: 10.1007/s10551-010-0567-1
Gupta, S. & Ogden, D.T. (2006). The attitude-behavior gap in environmental
        consumerism. APUBEF Proceedings, Fall.
Hassan, L., Shaw, D., Shiu, E., Walsh, G., Parry, S. (2013). Uncertainty in the ethical
        consumer choice: A conceptual model. Journal of Consumer Behaviors, 12(3),
        182-193. doi: 10.1002/cb.1409
Hill, J. & Lee, H. (2012).Young generation Y consumers’ perceptions of sustainability in
        the apparel industry. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 6(4), 477-
        491. doi: 10.1108/13612021211265863
Hustvedt, G. & Bernard, J.C. (2010). Effects of social responsibility labeling and brand
        willingness to pay for apparel. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 34(6),
        619-626. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2010.00870.x
Institut national de la statistique et des études économiques (2013). Pyramide des âges
        au        1er        janvier        2013.         Online   available         under
        http://www.insee.fr/fr/themes/tableau.asp?ref_id=ccc, retrieved 26.11.2013
Iwanow, H., McEachern, M.G., Jeffrey, A. (2005). The influence of ethical trading
        policies on consumer apparel purchase decisions-A focus on the gap Inc.
        International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 33(5), 371-387. doi:
        10.1108/09590550510596740
Jägel, T., Keeling, K., Reppel, A., Gruber, T. (2012). Individual values and motivational
        complexities in ethical consumption: A means-end approach. Journal of
        Marketing Management, 28(3/4), 373-396. doi: 10.1080/0267257X.2012.659280
Joergens, C. (2006). Ethical fashion: myth or future trend?. Journal of Fashion
        Marketing & Management, 10(3), 360-371.
Kollmuss, A. & Agyeman, J. (2002). Mind the gap: Why do people act environmentally
        and what are the barriers to pro-environmental behavior?. Environmental
        Education Research, 8(3), 239-260.
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry                        22

Kozlowski, A., Barecki, M., Searcy, C. (2012). Environmental impacts in the fashion
        industry: A life-cycle and stakeholder framework. Journal of Corporate
        Citizenship, (45), 17-36.
Ma, F., Shi, H., Chen, L., Luo, Y. (2012). A theory on fashion consumption. Journal of
        Management & Strategy, 3(4), 84-92. doi: 10.5430/jms.v3n4p84
Niinimäki, K. (2010).Eco-clothing, consumer identity and ideology. Sustainable
        Development, 18(3), 150-162.
Ottman, J.A., Stafford, E.R., Hartman C.L. (2006). Avoiding green marketing myopia:
        Ways to improve consumer appeal for environmentally preferable products.
        Environment, 48(5), 22-36.
Ozcaglar-Toulouse, N., Shiu, E., Shaw, D. (2006). In search of fair trade: Ethical
        consumer decision making in France. International Journal of Consumer
        Studies, 30(5), 502-514. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2006.00532.x
Shaw, D., Hogg, G., Wilson, E., Shui, E., Hassan, L. (2006). Fashion victim: The impact
        of fair trade concerns on clothing choice. Journal of Strategic Marketing, 14(4),
        427-440. doi: 10.1080/09652540600956426
Shaw, D., Shiu, E., Clarke, I. (2000). The contribution of ethical obligation and self-
        identity to the theory of planned behavior: An exploration of ethical consumers.
        Journal of Marketing Management, 16(8), 879-894.
Shaw, D., Shiu, E., Hassan, L., Bekin, C., Hogg, G., (2007). Intending to be ethical: An
        examination of consumer choice in sweatshop avoidance. Advances in
        Consumer Research, 34, 31-38
Shen, B., Wang, Y., Lo, C.K.Y., Shum, M. (2012). The impact of ethical fashion on
        consumer purchase behavior. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management,
        16(2), 234-245. doi: 10.1108/13612021211222842
Sudbury, L. & Böltner, S. (2011). Fashion marketing and the ethical movement versus
        individualistic consumption: Analyzing the attitude behavior gap. Advances in
        Consumer Research – European Conference Proceedings, 9, 163.
Valor, C. (2007). The influence of information about labor abuses on consumer choice
        of clothes: A grounded theory approach. Journal of Marketing Management,
        23(7/8), 675-695.
Young,W., Hwang, K., McDonald, S., Oates, C.J. (2010). Sustainable consumption:
        Green     consumer      behavior     when     purchasing   products.   Sustainable
        Development, 18(1), 20-31. doi: 10.1002/sd.394
You can also read