Consumer attitude and behavior in the ethical fashion industry - Exposé Submitted by Marlène Favier European Master in Business Studies University ...
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
____________________________________________ Consumer attitude and behavior in the ethical fashion industry Exposé ___________________________________________ Submitted by Marlène Favier European Master in Business Studies University of Kassel Kassel, Germany 21st October 2013
Abstract Title: Consumer attitude and behavior in the ethical fashion industry Keywords: Consumer, attitude, behavior, ethical fashion, attitude- behavior gap, France Background: Over the last few years, increasing awareness and c o n c e r n s in the ethical industry have been experienced. After a particular attention has been paid to the food industry, this understanding started to be expanded to the fashion i n d u s t r y . Indeed, the study of ethical apparel industry is gaining more and more stature on the literature as its impacts on environment are steadily increasing. To understand this industry, a special focus on the attitude and behavior of ethical fashion consumers is also given. However, a problem is raised: even if people are much more concerned about ethical fashion than it used to be, an attitude- behavior gap is noticed as people do not transform this consciousness into purchase. Purpose: Therefore, the aim of the study is to provide a better knowledge of the ethical fashion consumption in the French market. The latter is done through an analysis o f the different drivers and barriers that influence the attitude-behavior gap in the ethical apparel industry. Method: The collection of qualitative a n d q u a n t i t a t i v e information will be done through a n o n l i n e q u e s t i o n n a i r e sent to the French market. The respondents will be between 18 and 30 years old.
Consumer attitude and behavior in the ethical fashion industry Table of contents ABSTRACT ..................................................................................................................... 2 1. INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................... 3 2. PROBLEM STATEMENT AND RESEARCH QUESTION ....................................... 4 2.1 PROBLEM STATEMENT ........................................................................................... 4 2.2 RESEARCH QUESTION ............................................................................................ 5 2.3 HYPOTHESES ........................................................................................................ 5 3. THEORETICAL BACKGROUND ............................................................................. 6 4. REVIEW OF LITERATURE ...................................................................................... 7 4.1 APPAREL INDUSTRY ............................................................................................... 7 4.1.1 Fashion industry ............................................................................................ 7 4.1.2 Theory of reasoned action/planned behavior ................................................ 8 4.2 ETHICAL APPAREL INDUSTRY.................................................................................. 9 4.2.1 Ethical fashion ............................................................................................... 9 4.2.2 Modified theory of planned behavior ........................................................... 13 4.2.3 Attitude-Intention-Behavior gap ................................................................... 15 5. METHODOLOGY: QUESTIONNAIRE ................................................................... 17 6. OVERVIEW OF CHAPTERS .................................................................................. 18 7. WORK PLAN .......................................................................................................... 19
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 1. Introduction Nowadays, one can observe that there is a global growth of people’s concerns regarding the environment. Individuals recognize the need to act differently in a world that suffers from the overconsumption of the human beings. This consciousness is noticeable with the purchases’ increase of ethical products, especially in the food industry. However, this trend is also gaining ground in the apparel industry. The ethical purchase of garments is predicted to rise in the mainstream society like the growth already experienced by the “green food and green cosmetics” industries (Cervellon & Wernerfelt, 2012, p.177). The mass consumption in the apparel industry has a crucial impact on environment. Bray (2009) stated that “European Union and the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs have highlighted that clothing are high impact accounting for 5-10% of the EUs total environmental impact”. The major effects on the environment are related to the use of pesticides that infects other products such as food for instance. Chemicals are also used in an extensive way which might have some repercussions on environment and human health. Furthermore, a lot of clothes are discarded as soon as people consider them too old or not trendy anymore. This increases the number of textiles wastes and damages the environment. The intense usage of machines and natural resources also causes noise, sound and air pollution (Challa, 2010). In order to fight against these environmental impacts, there i s a substantial development of the ethical fashion. According to Joergens, ethical fashion is defined as “fashionable clothes that incorporate fair trade principles with sweatshop- free labor conditions while not harming the environment or workers by using biodegradable and organic cotton” (2006, p.361). Nevertheless, it seems to be controversial to bind ethical and fashion since fashion is a fast-moving good. Indeed, the apparel industry is distinguished by “rapid changes in styles, novelty and mass consumption” (Shaw et al., 2006, p.430). Therefore, this notion appears to be conflicting to the ethical idea of consumption. In order to understand the ethical fashion consumption, it is undeniable that a study of buyers’ attitude and behavior is required. The theories of reasoned action and planned behavior help to acquire a better knowledge of consumer behavior. However, a “gap between what consumers say about the importance of ethical issues and what they do at the checkout counter” has been identified during the
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 4 purchase of ethical products (Auger and Devinney, 2007, p.361). Therefore, this paper aims to analyze the attitude-behavior gap in the fashion clothing industry with a special focus on the French market. While French consumers declare that they are enticed to buy products with the label “Made In France”, a better quality and less impact on environment, the ranking of the top three companies in France indicates the opposite. I n d e e d , t h e t h r e e f i r m s Vivarte, KIABI Europe and Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) do represent the rapidly changes of collections at a reasonable price which points the paradox (Euromonitor International, 2013). In order to reach the goal of the paper, a review of the previous literature is done. First of all, the attention is placed on a brief understanding of the fashion industry and consumers’ attitudes and behavior when purchasing garments. Then, an analysis of the so-called theory of reasoned action and theory of planned behavior is given. Afterwards, an examination of the factors that influence behavior when buying an ethical cloth is proceeded with the help of the modified theory of planned behavior. Subsequently, an evaluation of the gap that occurs between the attitude and behavior is made. Finally, a deep study of the French consumers’ attitude and behavior is made through questionnaire. According to the results, some conclusions are provided as well as tactics in order to develop the consumption. 2. Problem statement and research question 2.1 Problem statement As previously mentioned, the attention is given to the French market as the latter lacks studies in the field. Indeed, the ethical apparel industry is a quite new phenomenon in France and only a small number of sources are available. Besides, as formerly discussed, an attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion French market is also identifiable.
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 5 2.2 Research question The following research question was designed: “What are the main drivers and barriers influencing the attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion in the French market?” 2.3 Hypotheses In order to answer the research question, the following hypotheses should be verified thanks to the methodology. Before going in depth in the attitude-behavior gap, a focus on one element which influences the intention is required. When analyzing British and German consumers, Joergens discovered that ethical awareness and concerns do not “significantly affect their purchase decisions” (2006, p.369). However it seems interesting to find out if this statement can be validated with the French population. Therefore the following hypotheses were designed: H1a: Ethical awareness does not have a significant influence on the intention in the ethical fashion purchasing process. H1b: Ethical concerns do not have a significant influence on the intention in the ethical fashion purchasing process. Thanks to the theory of planned behavior, one is aware that attitude influences intention and then behavior (Ajzen & Fishbein, 1980). However according to Shaw, Shiu, Hassan, Bekin, and Hogg (2007), the “attitude does not directly impact intention but rather required the motivational stage of desire” when it comes to the apparel industry (p.34). Niinimäki, (2010) confirmed that desire is a driver to reach the purchase. Thus, the following hypothesis was created: H2: The presence of desire has a positive impact on the attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion purchasing process According to Niinimäki (2010), ethical consumer commitment is a driver that leads to the purchase of eco-clothes. Gupta and Ogden (2006) added that the level of consumer involvement is a way to consolidate the attitude-behavior gap. As a
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 6 consequence, the following hypothesis was designed: H3: A h i g h level of consumer involvement has a positive impact on the attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion purchasing process. As reported by Jägel, Keeling, Reppel, and Gruber (2012), individual values such as “value for money, image and well-being” are purchasing drivers in the ethical clothing industry (p.373). Moreover, thanks to the interviews realized by Sudbury and Böltner (2011) on young urban adults in United Kingdom and Germany, it has been found out that individuality maintains the attitude-behavior gap. Therefore, the hypothesis is: H4: Individual values maintain the attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion purchasing process. According to Hassan, Shaw, Shiu, Walsh, and Parry (2013), uncertainty plays a major role in the ethical consumption process. The more uncertainty is present the more difficult the purchase is. Thus, the following hypothesis was conceived: H5: Uncertainty has a negative impact on the attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion purchasing process. Many studies mentioned the fact that ethical consumption is influenced by the price (Chan & W.Y. Wong, 2012; Joergens, 2006). Therefore, the hypothesis is: H6: Price has a negative influence on the attitude-behavior gap in the ethical fashion purchasing process. 3. Theoretical background The theories of reasoned action and planned behavior were adopted in order to analyze and explain consumer behaviors in ethical contexts. The theory of reasoned action was designed for behavior under volitional control. It relies on the fact that the behavior results from the intention. The latter is then influenced, on one side by the attitude and on the other side, by the subjective norm. The behavioral beliefs and the outcome evaluation impact the attitude. Regarding the subjective norm, it is determined by the normative beliefs and the motivation to comply. The theory of planned behavior is an extension of the theory of reasoned action that is applied for non-volitional behaviors. It also differs from the theory of reasoned action in the addition of the notion of perceived behavioral control as a driver of both the intention and the behavior.
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 7 4. Review of literature 4.1 Apparel industry 4.1.1 Fashion industry TOPIC TITLE / SOURCE REFERENCE CONTENT Fashion A theory on (Ma, Shi, A definition of fashion is provided definition – fashion Chen, and as well as an analysis of the Psychologica consumption / Luo, 2012) relationship between innovation, l motives and Journal of classic and prevalence. It is noticed behavior in Management & that fashion consumption can be fashion Strategy segmented into two categories: consumption social consumption motives and individual motives. Regarding the psychological motives, they can be divided into two groups: rational motives and perceptual motives. Besides, the buying process decision in fashion can be categorized into three categories: high, medium and low influence purchasing. They are all linked to perceived risks and habits (cognitive resistance). Influencing Apparel shopping (Du Preez, A theoretical model with a macro- variables on behavior – Part 1: 2003) approach of factors impacting the apparel Towards the apparel shopping behavior is shopping development of a developed. It includes the market- behavior conceptual dominated variables (product, theoretical model promotion, price, place) and the / SA Journal of consumer dominated variables Industrial (demographics, social-cultural Psychology influences and the psychological fields).
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 8 4.1.2 Theory of reasoned action/planned behavior TOPIC TITLE / SOURCE REFERENCE CONTENT Theory of Understanding (Ajzen & The theory of reasoned action reasoned attitudes and Fishbein, emerges. The latter relies on the action predicting social 1980) fact that attitude and subjective behavior norm lead to the intention and then, behavior. Theory of From intentions to (Ajzen, 1985) The author improves the theory of planned actions: A theory reasoned action with the behavior of planned introduction of the perceived behavior / Action behavioral control as another control: From influence variable on the intention. cognition to This theory is named theory of behavior planned behavior. Theory of The theory of (Ajzen, 1991) The theory of planned behavior planned planned behavior receives further research in order behavior / Organizational to confirm the utility of the model. Behavior and Human Decision Processes Influence of Intending to be (Shaw, Shiu, Two other variables are added to desire and ethical: An Hassan, Bekin, the theory of planned behavior plan on the examination of and Hogg, when testing in the apparel variables of consumer choice 2007) industry: the desire and the plan. the theory of in sweatshop The first one occurs between the planned avoidance / attitude and the intention and the behavior Advances in second one has, between the Consumer intention and the behavior. Research
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 9 4.2 Ethical apparel industry 4.2.1 Ethical fashion TOPIC TITLE / SOURCE REFERENCE CONTENT Ethical Ethical fashion: (Joergens, First of all, the author provides a fashion myth or future 2006) definition of ethical fashion. Then definition – trend? / Journal she evaluates the awareness of Awareness, of Fashion ethical issues on fashion behavior, Marketing & consumers (in United Kingdom and attitudes Management Germany), its resulting behavior towards and effects on purchase. Finally ethical she analyses consumer’s attitudes fashion towards ethical fashion. Price, style and quality seem to be the main drivers when buying an ethical garment. Ethical Fashion victim: (Shaw, Hogg, The authors study consumers’ consumers’ The impact of fair Wilson, Shui, ethical intentions to avoid intentions, trade concerns on and Hassan, sweatshop purchases, their actual behaviors clothing choice / 2006) behaviors and constraints when and Journal of purchasing an ethical garment. constraints Strategic Marketing Consumers’ Mode et (Chaballier & The results after the diffusion of a purchasing consummation Ruelle, 2009) survey are discussed. The latter behavior in responsible: aims to understand consumers’ the French Regards des purchasing behavior in the ethical market consommateurs / fashion industry in the French Institut français market. The following points are de la mode studied: awareness, purchasing criteria, barriers and expectations. Analysis of Eco-clothing, (Niinimäki, The ethical purchasing decisions the ethical consumer identity 2010) process is analyzed. The latter purchasing and ideology / relies on the construction of self
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 10 process Sustainable and the ongoing change process Development people are confronted to. Consumer commitment, wishes, needs, values, desires, aesthetic and emotions are drivers to the reaching point of purchase. Y Young generation (Hill & Lee, A special focus on Y consumers is consumers’ Y consumers’ 2012) given with the aim to analyze their perceptions perceptions of awareness and concerns about sustainability in sustainability in the fashion the apparel industry. It results that they lack industry / Journal knowledge and need to be of Fashion educated. Marketing & Management Attributes Individual values (Jägel, The relation between attributes and and values and motivational Keeling, values when purchasing an ethical relationship complexities in Reppel, and product is analyzed. Five patterns ethical Gruber, 2012) emerge after conducting a semi- consumption: A qualitative laddering approach means-end based on environmental and approach / altruist ethical concerns, individual Journal of motives of value for money, Marketing personal image and well-being. Management Eco-fashion The consumption (Chan & W.Y. The eco-fashion consumption consumption side of Wong, 2012) decision process is affected by impacted by sustainable three variables: product-related product- fashion supply- attributes, store-related attributes related Understanding and premium price. Some tactics attributes, fashion consumer should be employed in order to store-related eco-fashion develop a good perception around attributes consumption these variables. and premium decision / Journal
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 11 price of Fashion Marketing & Management Policies – The influence of (Iwanow, An overview of different policies Focus on the ethical trading McEachern, (corporate codes of conduct, Gap policies on and Jeffrey, conventions…) that have been company consumer apparel 2005) implemented to deal with ethical purchase issues is described. Then, a decisions-A focus special attention on the gap on the gap Inc. / company is given. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management Guarantees Memento de la (Délégation In order to guarantee the reliability for an ethical mode éthique / interministériell of an ethical product, some product Sicom 06071, eà guarantees are presented which Parimage l'innovation, include the involvement of public à authorities, work of associations, l'expérimentati manifestations organization and on sociale et à label creation. l'économie sociale, 2006) Tactics to Avoiding green (Ottman, The authors mention some increase marketing Stafford, and strategies that could be employed consumer myopia-Ways to Hartman, to increase ethical products’ value and improve 2006) perception with the green avoid green consumer appeal marketing. The latter should be marketing for based on five criteria to raise a myopia environmentally green consumer value: efficiency preferable and cost effectiveness; health and products / safety; performance; symbolism Environment and status; and convenience. To avoid green marketing myopia,
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 12 three principals should be employed: consumer value positioning, calibration of consumer knowledge and credibility of products claims. Information The influence of (Valor, 2007) The author studies the influence of impact when information about information when buying a buying a labor abuses on garment. Some differences in cloth consumer choice cognition, motivation and behavior of clothes: A are noticed due to the grounded theory interdependent link between ethical approach / obligation, conflicting identities and Journal of personal action to change. Marketing Management Label Labeling fashion (Aspers, 2008) The author proposes a label for proposal markets / fashion garments to inform International consumers about the ethical Journal of aspects of the products. Consumer Studies Consumers’ Effects of social (Hustvedt & Some impacts on attitude are willingness to responsibility Bernard, 2010) revealed when information on an pay for a labeling and ethical product are added for premium brand willingness instance labor information. It is price for to pay for apparel noticed that consumers are willing added / International of to pay a higher price when this information Consumer information is mentioned. Studies Knowledge The impact of (Shen, Wang, A research model of consumer and support ethical fashion on Lo, and Shum purchase behavior on ethical relationship consumer 2012) fashion is given. It emerges that purchase concerns, knowledge and beliefs behavior / Journal about sweatshops and eco-fashion
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 13 of Fashion lead to a higher degree of Marketing & willingness to pay for ethical Management products. Consumer education, advertisements with social and messages and participation of consumers, designers and retailers are mentioned as crucial points to increase ethical fashion purchases. Important Knowledge (Cervellon & The article proves that the role of role of online sharing among Wernerfelt, online communities can be communities green fashion 2012) considered as a useful way that communities spreads knowledge among online / Journal of customers. Fashion Marketing & Management 4.2.2 Modified theory of planned behavior TOPIC TITLE / SOURCE REFERENCE CONTENT Impact of The contribution (Shaw, Shiu, The authors study the impact of self-identity of ethical and Clarke, ethical obligation and self-identity and ethical obligation and 2000) on the theory of planned behavior obligation on self-identity to the and more precisely on the intention in theory of planned intention. the theory of behavior: An planned exploration of behavior ethical consumers / Journal of Marketing Management Impact of In search of fair (Ozcaglar- An analysis of the two variable, self-identity trade: Ethical Toulouse, self-identity and ethical obligation, and ethical consumer Shiu, and is evaluated in the ethical decisions
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 14 obligation on decision making Shaw, 2006) in the French market intention in in France / the theory of International planned Journal of behavior Consumer Studies Influence of What we believe (Fukukawa & The authors report that social norms is not always Ennew, 2010) questionable behavior in ethical and what we do: An contexts cannot be explained by perceived empirical the ethical judgment. Thus, they unfairness investigation into recommend the addition of social on intention - ethically norm (instead subjective norm) and Criticism of questionable perceived unfairness as impacts ethical behavior in variables on intention to purchase. judgment consumption / Journal of Business Ethics Introduction An extension of (Celuch & Dill, The theory of reasoned action is of the ethical the theory of 2011) extended with the addition of the judgment in reasoned action ethical judgment as an impact the theory of in ethical decision variable on the intention. This study reasoned contexts: The role is realized in the ethical decision- action of normative making process. influence and ethical judgment / Journal of Education for Business Uncertainty: Uncertainty in the (Hassan, Firstly, a definition of the definition, ethical consumer Shaw, Shiu, uncertainty is developed. Then, the causes, choice: A Walsh, and causes of the uncertainty and outcomes conceptual model Parry, 2013) outcomes of the uncertainty are and solutions / Journal of mentioned. Some solutions are Consumer finally provided in order to avoid
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 15 Behaviors the uncertainty. 4.2.3 Attitude-Intention-Behavior gap TOPIC TITLE / SOURCE REFERENCE CONTENT Definition of The attitude- (Gupta & A definition of the gap is given. a gap - Ways behavior gap in Ogden, 2006) Besides, the level of consumer to fortify the environmental involvement and the perceived gap consumerism / consumer effectiveness are APUBEF provided as ways to consolidate Proceedings the attitude-behavior gap that exists in the ethical consumption. Explanation Why ethical (Carrington, A special focus on the intention- of the consumers don’t Neville, and behavior gap is made in the ethical intention- walk their talk: Whitwell, purchase process. Three variables behavior gap Towards a 2010) take part in this gap: the added with the role framework for implementation intentions, the of three other understanding the actual behavioral control and the variables gap between the situational context. They all play a ethical purchase crucial role between the intention intentions and and the behavior that leads to the actual buying purchase. behavior of ethically minded consumers / Journal of Business Ethics Attitude- Fashion (Sudbury & Young urban adults in United behavior marketing and the Böltner, 2011) Kingdom and Germany have been held by the ethical movement interviewed in order to evaluate the Individualism versus attitude-behavior gap. It appears individualistic that individuality plays a major role consumption: in maintaining of this gap. Analyzing the
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 16 attitude behavior gap / Advances in Consumer Research – European Conference Proceedings Behavior Mind the gap: (Kollmuss & Some theoretical frameworks are affected by Why do people Agyeman, reviewed in order to analyze the demographic act 2002) gap. It appears that demographic, , external environmentally external and internal factors affect and internal and what are the the behavior. Finally a model pro- factors barriers to pro- environmental behavior is provided environmental with the different barriers that behavior? / obstruct the achievement of a Environmental concerned behavior. Education Research Measures to Sustainable (Young, The authors provide some criteria reduce the consumption: Hwang, in order to close the gap between gap Green consumer McDonald, and attitudes and behavior: consumer behavior when Oates, 2010) value, purchase experience, time purchasing for research, knowledge, products / availability of ethical products and Sustainable affordable price. Development
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 17 5. Methodology: Questionnaire Setting: The questionnaire will be spread online in January 2014. Participants: The sample of the questionnaire will be composed by French people between 18 and 30 years. The respondents are chosen first of all because they will represent the consumer of tomorrow. Young people are also more interested in fashion and more educated than older ones. They will be selected through online platforms and personal contacts. Measurement instruments: Software for online survey: Sphinx. Data analysis: Qualitative, open questions, and quantitative techniques, m a i n l y L i k e r t s c a l e q u e s t i o n s , will be employed. Content: As mentioned in the section 2.1, very few studies have been designed and allow a deep analysis of the French market patterns. Therefore, it is necessary to employ different techniques through a questionnaire in order to cover a large geographical area: France. Thanks to the survey, the behaviors, opinions, motives, expectations and profile of the sample will be discovered and the hypotheses would be confirmed or disconfirmed. The sample is estimated through Raosoft, an online sample size calculator. Taking into account that the age of the respondents should be between 18 and 30 years old, the total sample amounts 10,300,859 people (Institut national de la statistique et des etudes économiques, 2013). According to Raosoft, with an error margin of 5%, a confidence level of 95% and a response distribution of 50%, the approximate number of people to reach is 385.
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 18 6. Overview of chapters Abstract List of content List of tables List of abbreviations 1. Introduction 1.1 Research problem 1.2 Topic importance 1.3 Contributions 1.4 Thesis structure 2. Research question and hypotheses 2.1 Problem statement 2.2 Research question 2.3 Hypotheses 3. Literature review and theoretical background 3.1 Fashion industry 3.1.1 Definition of fashion 3.1.2 Theory of planned action 3.1.3 Theory of planned behavior 3.2 Ethical apparel industry 3.2.1 Ethical fashion definition 3.2.2 Modified theory of reasoned action/plan 3.2.3 Attitude-intention-behavior gap 4. Research methodology 4.1 Method: Questionnaire 4.1.1 Setup 4.1.2 Execution 4.1.3 Results 4.2 Summary of results 4.3 Concerns for validity 5. Conclusion 5.1 Implications for companies 5.2 Limitations of the study 5.3 Suggestions for further researchers 6. Bibliography 7. Appendix
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 19 7. Work plan PERIOD OF TIME PHASE OBJECTIVE 01.10.13 – 11.11.13 Research phase Elaboration and adjustment of the exposé 12.11.13 – 09.12.13 Theory phase Literature review and development of the theoretical section of the master thesis 10.12.13 – 31.12.13 Methodology phase Development of the survey 10.12.13 – 23.01.14 Intermediate presentation Elaboration of the presentation and the intermediate report 01.01.14 – 31.01.14 Analysis phase Focus groups and spread of the questionnaire 01.02.14 – 28.02.14 Evaluation phase Evaluation of the results 01.03.14 – deadline Finalization phase Finalization of the master thesis: review, adjustment, preparation of the final report and presentation
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 20 Bibliography Ajzen, I. & Fishbein, M. (1980). Understanding attitudes and predicting social behavior. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall. Ajzen, I. (1985). “From intention to actions: A theory of planned behavior”, in Action- control: From cognition to behavior (pp. 11-39). Heidelberg, Germany: Springer Ajzen, I. (1991). The theory of planned behavior. Organizational Behavior and Human Decision Processes, 50, 179-211. Aspers, P. (2008). Labeling fashion markets. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 32(6), 633-638. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2008.00724.x Bray, J.P. (2009). Ethical dimensions in clothing purchase. In: First Annual Ethics in Everyday Life Conference, 17/19 March 2009, Salzburg. Carrington, M., Neville, B., Whitwell, G. (2010). Why ethical consumers don’t walk their talk: Towards a framework for understanding the gap between the ethical purchase intentions and actual buying behavior of ethically minded consumers. Journal of Business Ethics, 97(1), 139-158. doi: 10.1007/s10551-010-0501-6 Celuch, K.& Dill, A. (2011). An extension of the theory of reasoned action in ethical decision contexts: The role of normative influence and ethical judgment. Journal of Education for Business, 86(4), 201-207. doi: 10.1080/08832323.2010.502913 Cervellon, M.C., Wernerfelt, A.S. (2012). Knowledge sharing among green fashion communities online. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 16(2), 176- 192. doi: 10.1108/13612021211222860 Chaballier, E. & Ruelle, N. (2009). Mode et consummation responsible: Regards des consommateurs. Institut français de la mode. Challa, L. (2010). Impact of textiles and Clothing industry on the environment: Approach towards eco-friendly textiles. Online available under http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/textile-industry-articles/impact-of- textiles-and-clothing-industry-on-environment/impact-of-textiles-and-clothing- industry-on-environment2.asp, retrieved 16.10.2013 Chan, T. & Wong, C. (2012). The consumption side of sustainable fashion supply- Understanding fashion consumer eco-fashion consumption decision. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 16(2), 193-215. doi: 10.1108/13612021211222824
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 21 Délégation interministérielle à l'innovation, à l'expérimentation sociale et à l'économie sociale (2006). Memento de la mode éthique. Sicom 06071, Parimage. Du Preez, R. (2003). Apparel shopping behavior – Part 1: Towards the development of a conceptual theoretical model. SA Journal of Industrial Psychology, 29(3), 11- 14. Euromonitor International (2013): Apparel in France. Fukukawa, K. & Ennew, C. (2010). What we believe is not always what we do: An empirical investigation into ethically questionable behavior in consumption. Journal of Business Ethics, 91(1), 49-60. doi: 10.1007/s10551-010-0567-1 Gupta, S. & Ogden, D.T. (2006). The attitude-behavior gap in environmental consumerism. APUBEF Proceedings, Fall. Hassan, L., Shaw, D., Shiu, E., Walsh, G., Parry, S. (2013). Uncertainty in the ethical consumer choice: A conceptual model. Journal of Consumer Behaviors, 12(3), 182-193. doi: 10.1002/cb.1409 Hill, J. & Lee, H. (2012).Young generation Y consumers’ perceptions of sustainability in the apparel industry. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 6(4), 477- 491. doi: 10.1108/13612021211265863 Hustvedt, G. & Bernard, J.C. (2010). Effects of social responsibility labeling and brand willingness to pay for apparel. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 34(6), 619-626. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2010.00870.x Institut national de la statistique et des études économiques (2013). Pyramide des âges au 1er janvier 2013. Online available under http://www.insee.fr/fr/themes/tableau.asp?ref_id=ccc, retrieved 26.11.2013 Iwanow, H., McEachern, M.G., Jeffrey, A. (2005). The influence of ethical trading policies on consumer apparel purchase decisions-A focus on the gap Inc. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 33(5), 371-387. doi: 10.1108/09590550510596740 Jägel, T., Keeling, K., Reppel, A., Gruber, T. (2012). Individual values and motivational complexities in ethical consumption: A means-end approach. Journal of Marketing Management, 28(3/4), 373-396. doi: 10.1080/0267257X.2012.659280 Joergens, C. (2006). Ethical fashion: myth or future trend?. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 10(3), 360-371. Kollmuss, A. & Agyeman, J. (2002). Mind the gap: Why do people act environmentally and what are the barriers to pro-environmental behavior?. Environmental Education Research, 8(3), 239-260.
Consumer attitude and behaviour in the ethical fashion industry 22 Kozlowski, A., Barecki, M., Searcy, C. (2012). Environmental impacts in the fashion industry: A life-cycle and stakeholder framework. Journal of Corporate Citizenship, (45), 17-36. Ma, F., Shi, H., Chen, L., Luo, Y. (2012). A theory on fashion consumption. Journal of Management & Strategy, 3(4), 84-92. doi: 10.5430/jms.v3n4p84 Niinimäki, K. (2010).Eco-clothing, consumer identity and ideology. Sustainable Development, 18(3), 150-162. Ottman, J.A., Stafford, E.R., Hartman C.L. (2006). Avoiding green marketing myopia: Ways to improve consumer appeal for environmentally preferable products. Environment, 48(5), 22-36. Ozcaglar-Toulouse, N., Shiu, E., Shaw, D. (2006). In search of fair trade: Ethical consumer decision making in France. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 30(5), 502-514. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2006.00532.x Shaw, D., Hogg, G., Wilson, E., Shui, E., Hassan, L. (2006). Fashion victim: The impact of fair trade concerns on clothing choice. Journal of Strategic Marketing, 14(4), 427-440. doi: 10.1080/09652540600956426 Shaw, D., Shiu, E., Clarke, I. (2000). The contribution of ethical obligation and self- identity to the theory of planned behavior: An exploration of ethical consumers. Journal of Marketing Management, 16(8), 879-894. Shaw, D., Shiu, E., Hassan, L., Bekin, C., Hogg, G., (2007). Intending to be ethical: An examination of consumer choice in sweatshop avoidance. Advances in Consumer Research, 34, 31-38 Shen, B., Wang, Y., Lo, C.K.Y., Shum, M. (2012). The impact of ethical fashion on consumer purchase behavior. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 16(2), 234-245. doi: 10.1108/13612021211222842 Sudbury, L. & Böltner, S. (2011). Fashion marketing and the ethical movement versus individualistic consumption: Analyzing the attitude behavior gap. Advances in Consumer Research – European Conference Proceedings, 9, 163. Valor, C. (2007). The influence of information about labor abuses on consumer choice of clothes: A grounded theory approach. Journal of Marketing Management, 23(7/8), 675-695. Young,W., Hwang, K., McDonald, S., Oates, C.J. (2010). Sustainable consumption: Green consumer behavior when purchasing products. Sustainable Development, 18(1), 20-31. doi: 10.1002/sd.394
You can also read