Chemistry for any weather - Greenpeace tests outdoor clothes for perfluorinated toxins
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Chemistry for any weather
Greenpeace tests outdoor clothes
for perfluorinated toxins
www . greenpeace . de
02
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Table of Contents
Summary 05
03
2 Sampling and methodology 07
2.1 What was tested? 07
2.2 How was testing done? 08
3 Results for perfluorinated and polyfluorinated compounds (PFCs) 13
3.1 Perfluorinated carboxylic acids (PFCAs) with perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) 14
3.2 Fluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs) 15
3.3 Perfluorinated sulfonate (PFOS) 16
4 Results for other toxins 19
4.1 Alkylphenol ethoxylates 20
4.2 Phthalate plasticizers 20
4.3 Azo dyes 21
4.4 Organotin compounds 21
4.5 Antimony 21
4.6 Isocyanates 21
5 Alternatives to fluorocarbon coatings and finishes 25
6 Conclusions and recommendations 29
7 Appendix 31
7.1 Hazardous Substances in the Textile Industry 42
7.2 References 43
Imprint Publisher Greenpeace e. V., Große Elbstraße 39, 22767 Hamburg, T 040.3 06 18 - 0, F 040.3 06 18 - 100, mail@greenpeace.de, www.greenpeace.de
Political Representation Berlin Marienstr. 19 – 20, 10117 Berlin, T 030 . 30 88 99 - 0 V.i.S.d.P. Manfred Santen Authors Manfred Santen, Ulrike Kallee Editor Simone Miller
Photo Titel: Bente Stachowske, Bente Stachowske (16), Marcus Meyer (9), alle © Greenpeace Picture Editorial Max Seiler Production Christiane Bluhm Artwork Klasse 3b, Hamburg 10 / 2012
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Summary
1. Summary 05
Greenpeace finds environmentally damaging toxins in outdoor clothing.
Tests were conducted on 14 rain jackets and rain pants.
Each sample contained perfluorinated compounds (PFC).
Images of pristine nature are often The Detox campaign works Hazardous chemicals must be
used for advertising outdoor clothing. to improve the environmental removed from outdoor clothing
But nature does not remain untouched balance of textile production production
by the chemicals in weather-resistant In the context of the international Detox The findings from this product investigation
fabrics. All over the world, from seclu- campaign, Greenpeace is calling on textile underline the urgent need to ban PFCs from
ded mountain lakes and Arctic polar ice manufacturers to replace hazardous produc- outdoor wear production. PFC-free materi-
to deep in the oceans, traces can be tion chemicals with harmless alternatives. als are already available today. The outdoor
found of perfluorinated and polyfluori- Greenpeace is also calling on governments clothing industry must continue to develop
nated compounds (PFCs), pollutants to regulate more chemicals that are hazar- safer alternatives and use them in proces-
with properties that are harmful to the dous. PFCs are among the groups of sub- sing their products.
1)
environment and health. stances on the Detox campaign’s priority
list. Some PFCs are known to be endocrine The hazardous properties of well-researched
Outdoor clothing is in close contact with a disruptors and are harmful to the repro- PFCs such as PFOS and PFOA and insuffi-
whole range of chemicals before it is used ductive system. cient data on other PFCs call for much more
for hiking or skiing. Yarns, fabrics and even stringent regulation to protect health and
ready-made garments are treated with che- As early as 2011, Greenpeace proved that the environment. Greenpeace supports the
mical substances to enhance functionality PFCs from the production of brand name initiative of Germany’s Federal Environment
2)
and make items easy to care for. Most brand textiles in China were discharged to rivers. Agency to place PFOA on the Candidate
name manufacturers use PFCs so that we This study proves that residues of PFCs and List of Substances of Very High Concern
stay dry in our outdoor wear, inside and other chemicals are in the outdoor wear (SVHC) so that they are subject to further
4)
outside. These man-made compounds of made by well-known manufacturers. restriction through REACH .
carbon and fluorine are so stable that they
can hardly be removed from the environ- Commissioned by Greenpeace, two inde- In view of the hazardous properties of
ment, if at all. pendent laboratories tested weatherproof C8 PFCs (PFOA and PFOS), and in view of
jackets and pants between June and Sep- research findings indicating that other
3)
For the consumer, it is not clear which tember 2012. PFCs were found in all 14 PFCs (C6) might possess similar hazardous
chemicals have been used during the pro- samples; among them was the well-known properties, it is not enough to regulate only
duction of outdoor clothing and which hazardous compound perfluorooctanoic single substances such as PFOA. Greenpeace
harmful substances clothing may still acid (PFOA). In five samples, PFOA was demands that the entire group of PFCs
contain. PFCs and other chemicals reach found in significant concentrations. is put under scrutiny for a possible regu-
drinking water, food and ultimately human In addition, six samples had fluorotelomer lative ban.
blood and breast milk from such various alcohols (FTOHs) in high concentrations.
sources as manufacturing and household
wastewater, dust, and the disposal of tex-
tiles. It is even possible to inhale them.
1) See Section 7.1 in the Appendix.
2) http://www.greenpeace.de/fileadmin/gpd/user_upload/themen/chemie/GP_2011_Dirty_Laundry_Brochure_D_02.pdf
3) PFCs are differentiated into perfluorinated and polyfluorinated compounds. The subgroup of perfluorinated compounds includes perfluorinated carboxylic acids (PFCAs) and perfluorocarbon sulfonic acids (PFSAs);
the subgroup of polyfluorinated compounds includes fluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs). Each of these subgroups includes a number of individual substances, so that, for example, perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) is a PFCA,
and perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) is a PFSA. The fluorotelomer alcohols include polyfluorinated substances such as 8:2 FTOH (to be exact: 1H,1H,2H,2H-perfluoro-1-decanol).
4) REACH (Registration, Evaluation, and Authorisation of CHemicals), the main general European Union chemicals regulation.
06
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Sampling and methodology
2. Sampling and
methodology 07
2.1 What was tested?
In the spring of 2012, Greenpeace purchas- Two jackets, one from Zimtstern (made for The products were either purchased in their
ed 13 items of outdoor clothing bearing Greenpeace) and one from Fjällräven, were original packaging or put into an unconta-
well-known outdoor brand names. These labeled as PFC-free. According to the labels, minated plastic bag immediately after
included four jackets and one pair of pants eleven of the 14 products were made in purchase. The samples were registered at
5)
for children, and eight jackets for women. China, and one each was made in Indone- Greenpeace and documented in photos.
Nine jackets were purchased in Germany, sia, Vietnam and Ukraine. A sample of fabric measuring 20 x 20 cm
two in Switzerland, and two in Austria. The was cut out of the back of each garment
products were bought either in flagship or where there was no printing or labeling.
specialized stores, or ordered online. In ad- Samples were individually wrapped tightly
dition to these purchased items, a rain jacket in aluminum foil and tested in two inde-
made especially for Greenpeace activists pendent labs.
(manufactured by Zimtstern) was also tested.
These jackets are not available for sale.
Table 1: The outdoor clothing items that were tested
Brand Country of Product Name or Technology for Coating/Finish Environmental Store
Name Production Description Label or Claim
Purchased in
Germany
Zimtstern / China Light rain jacket Membrane: polyester (SympaTex), Bluesign Own product
Greenpeace for women Dendrimer finish (Bionic finish ECO)
Jack Wolfskin Indonesia Cloud Stream Jacket Membrane: Texapore AIR, Globetrotter
(for children/boys) Outer shell: 100% polyamide
Vaude China Kids Escape Jacket Membrane: Ceplex advanced, 100% PU GreenShape Vaude.de
Outer shell: polyamide, PU-coating Bluesign
Vaude Vietnam Escape Bike Jacket III Membrane: Ceplex advanced, 100% PU globetrotter.de
(for women) Outer shell: polyamide, PU-coating
North Face China Sutherland Jacket Membrane: PTFE(Gore-Tex), 100% globetrotter.de
(for women) 100% polyester laminated
Mountain Ukraine WMNS Firefox-Jacket Membrane: PTFE(Gore-Tex) Globetrotter
Equipment
Marmot China Boy’s Torrey Pant #64310 UPF / UV40: Globetrotter
96% Nylon, 4% Elastan
Fjällräven China Eco-Trail Jacket Women Membrane: Eco-Shell Fluorcarbon-free Amazon.de
(Trekking) 100% recycled polyester Sportausstatter
Meinunger
Patagonia China Piolet Jacket Lady Black Membrane: PTFE(Gore-Tex) Common Threats Backpacking ForEver
(Modell 2012) Outer shell: 100% nylon Initiative
Adidas China Terrex Feather Jacket Membrane: PTFE(Gore-Tex), Adidas.de
(for women) 100% polyamide
Purchased in
Austria
Northland China Basic Child Rain Poncho Membrane: 100% polyester Northland store in
in train station, Vienna
Seven China Tamina Kinder-Regenjacke Membrane: Ice Tech 5000 MM Intersport Eybl
Summits (child’s rain jacket) 5000 MVP / polyamide Megastore, Vienna
Purchased in
Switzerlans
Mammut China Fujiyama Jacket Women Membrane: PTFE(Gore-Tex) Mammut Store, Zurich
Kaikkialla China Annuka Jacket Womens XS Membrane: Toray DermizaxEV Transa, Zurich
5) Only women’s jackets were purchased because they can be worn in small sizes by young teenagers.
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2.2 How was testing done?
The samples were sent to two laboratories The testing covered the PFCs that could be
and tested for perfluorinated and polyfluo- extracted using solvents. The analysis of PFCs
rinated compounds and for other hazardous PFCAs extracted with methanol was done Per- and Polyfluorinated chemicals
11)
chemicals such as plasticizers (phthalates), using high-performance liquid chromato- (PFC) are chemical compounds in
surfactants (nonylphenol ethoxylates), graphy combined with tandem mass spec- which the hydrogen atoms on a carbon
organotin compounds, and carcinogenic trometry (HPLC-MS/MS), and the FTOHs skeleton are replaced completely (per-
amines that can be released from azo dyes. extracted with methyl tertiary butyl ether fluorinated) or partially (polyfluorinated)
(MTBE) were analyzed using gas chroma- by fluorine atoms. PFCs do not occur
The first lab tested for a comprehensive tography coupled with mass spectrometry in nature. They have been made for
list of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated (GC-MS). more than 50 years by fluorochemical
compounds, among them perfluorinated manufacturers. The OECD (Organization
carboxylic acids such as PFOA and perfluo- The second lab tested the clothing for other for Economic Cooperation and Develop-
rinated sulfonic acids such as PFOS. The toxins. The selection of substances for te- ment) lists a total of 853 different
list also included, among other compounds, sting was determined by the nature of the fluorine compounds.
6)
fluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs) ; FTOHs fabrics. Among others, alkylphenol ethoxy-
are the main starting product today in lates, plasticizers (phthalates), aromatic In the apparel industry, perfluorinated
7)
the synthesis of fluorinated polymers. amines released from azo dyes, isocyanates, carboxylic acids (PFCAs) such as per-
Polymers ensure the waterproofing and/or and organotin compounds were measured fluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), for instance,
dirt-repellent properties of the PFC finish using GC-MS. Among the alkylphenol and the fluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs)
8)
on outdoor textiles. To the best of our ethoxylates were nonylphenol ethoxylates play a role. Because the carbon-fluorine
knowledge, very few studies so far have (NPEs), which have been discussed exten- bond is the most stable in organic
10)
tested for such a comprehensive list of sively in earlier Greenpeace reports. chemistry, PFCs are very persistent.
9)
PFCs in outdoor clothing. Some samples were tested for antimony. Once they have been released to the
environment, they barely degrade and
A scanning electron microscope (SEM) remain there for long periods of time.
was used in qualitative testing to detect the It is therefore not surprising that these
presence of fluorine. This testing indicates chemicals have been found around the
whether a membrane or fabric contains globe. Scientists have found them in
fluorine. Fluorine is not subject to official the snow of the Alps and the waters of
declaration. It is already a known fact that the deep sea. Even the blood of Arctic
Gore-Tex and Teflon membranes contain polar bears and the dung of penguins
fluorine in the form of polytetrafluoroethy- on Tierra del Fuego are contaminated
lene (PTFE). For other membranes, SEM with PFCs.
analysis provides valuable information on
the mode of production. PFCs accumulate mainly in blood. These
The Bremer Umweltinstitut [environmental insti-
chemicals enter the human body in food,
tute] analyzed outdoor textiles for Greenpeace. air and drinking water. According to
present knowledge, absorption through
the skin is rather low. The fact is that
PFCs are detectable in human blood
around the world (Bonefeld-Jorgensen
2011), and have even been found in the
6) X:Y-FTOH: Telomers are derived from alcohols (-OH). Figure X stands for the number of fluorinated carbon atoms, figure Y for the number of non-fluorinated carbon atoms. Because some carbons atoms in telomers are never fluorinated,
these are called polyfluorinated and not perfluorinated. FTOHs are more volatile than ionic perfluorinated carboxylic acids (PFCAs).
7) Walters A, Santillo D.: Uses of Perfluorinated Substances, Greenpeace Research Laboratories Technical Note 06/2006 (http://www.greenpeace.to/greenpeace/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/uses-of-perfluorinated-chemicals.pdf) and
Walters A, Santillo D, Johnston P: An Overview of Textiles Processing and Related Environmental Concerns (http://www.greenpeace.org/seasia/th/Global/seasia/report/2008/5/textile-processing.pdf)
8) Fluorotelomer alcohols are usually not taken into account in other investigations testing for hazardous residues in textiles. This is a serious deficit because these very volatile compounds are often the main contaminant in textiles.
Moreover, within the body and in the atmosphere they degrade into PFOAs and other carboxylates.
9) Friends of the Earth Norway (2006): Fluorinated pollutants in all-weather clothing: http://www.snf.se/pdf/rap-hmv-allvadersklader-eng.pdf
Berger U, Herzke D (2006). Per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS) extracted from textile samples. Poster presentation
10) http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/publications/reports/Dirty-Laundry-2/
11) References for text see Section 7.2 in the Appendix.
09
blood of umbilical cords and newborns exposure and adiposity (Thorhallur 2012), 1. Coatings and finishes
(Fromme 2010). This is particularly worri- diminished fertility (Fei 2009), immune Fluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs) are
some because PFCs circulate through disorders (Grandjean 2012) and thyroid processed on a large scale into fluori-
the human body for a relatively long time. diseases (Melzer 2010). PFOA is currently nated polymers which are used to
The retention time for perfluorooctanoic not subject to legal regulation. Germany’s make textiles waterproof, dirt-repellent
acid (PFOA) is more than three years on Federal Environment Agency is working or grease-resistant. Many impregnating
average. PFCs have been found in breast to put PFOA on the REACH Candidate fabric care products also contain fluori-
milk (Fromme 2010). Although concentra- List of Substances of Very High Concern nated polymers. Finished products such
tions are lower than in blood, they are (SVHC) (Vierke 2012). as outdoor jackets or impregnating
nevertheless problematic because infants sprays can contain residues of FTOH.
are still developing and therefore are PFCs end up in the environment either Annual FTOH production is estimated
particularly sensitive. A study carried out directly – during production – or indirectly at 11,000 to 14,000 tons around the
in Germany showed that infants actually when products containing PFCs are used world. Since fluorotelomer alcohols are
had higher PFC contaminations than their and disposed of. The apparel industry volatile compounds, they are thought to
mothers (Fromme 2010). uses PFCs in particular for coating and play an important role in global sprea-
finishing outdoor garments or sporting ding. Air currents can transport them
Animal testing has shown that some PFCs goods (1) or for the production of breatha- even to remote areas (Weinberg 2011),
are harmful to reproduction. They can also ble membranes (2). and they can be inhaled and retained
promote the growth of tumors (UBA 2009). in the body. These substances are pro-
There is growing evidence that PFOA in blematic because they can be conver-
particular does other harm, and it is sus- ted into perfluorinated carboxylic acids
pected of being an endocrine disruptor. (such as PFOA) in the environment and
Recent epidemiological studies have in organisms. There are indications that
suggested an association between PFOA during this conversion process, inter-
mediate products form in the body that
Examples of PFCs and their chemical structure can actually be much more harmful
than the end product of perfluorinated
Group12) Example for a compound Chemical Structure
Perfluorinated sulfonic PFOS
carboxylic acid (Rand und Mabury 2012).
F F F F F F F F O
acids
F C C C C C C C C S OH
Even the production of FTOHs is itself
F F F F F F F F O a problem because PFOA can form as
Perfluorinated PFOA F F F F F F F F O
an impurity.
carboxylic acids
F C C C C C C C C C
2. Membranes
F F F F F F F F O
Fluorotelomer alcohols 8:2 FTOH
F F F F F F F H H Compounds containing fluorine are also
F C C C C C C C C C OH
used to produce outdoor membranes
F F F F F F F H H
Fluorocarbon polymers Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) (Gore-Tex, Teflon). Many of these mem-
F F
(Breathable membranes such as
Gore-Tex) C C
branes are made of polytetrafluoroethy-
F F n lene (PTFE), for which PFOA is used
Fluorinated polymers Perfluoroalkyl monomer
(Waterproofing and dirt-repellent H R O H H F F F F F F F F F F as a process additive during manufac-
treatment of textiles) C C C O C C C C C C C C C C C C F turing. This can be found again as an
H H H F F F F F F F F F F
impurity in the finished product. Some
manufacturers have therefore already
switched to using other fluorine-contai-
ning additives. But these are also per-
sistent and therefore not environmentally
compatible.
12) http://www.umweltdaten.de/publikationen/fpdf-l/3818.pdf
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In the production and processing of textiles nation. Testing for PFCs in rainwear from The accumulation potential of these
containing PFCs, chemicals are released Norway and Sweden also found residues substances in the body is lower than for
into wastewater. Even private households of FTOHs and perfluorinated carboxylic PFOA. A study carried out in Norway
can be a source (UBA 2009) when, for acids (PFCAs) (Berger 2006). shows however that the contamination
example, coated textiles are washed. How of blood with these substances has in-
much PFC is released during washing It is not clear what happens to an outdoor creased significantly in the Norwegian
has not been investigated. Most PFCs do jacket when it is no longer worn and ends population in recent years (Berger 2012,
not degrade in sewage treatment plants. up in the rubbish. Occasional air measure- presentation). Samples of breast milk
Some of these chemicals are collected in ments at waste dumps have shown increa- from China and Sweden were also con-
sewage sludge. The rest reaches rivers and sed PFC contamination in these locations taminated (Jensen 2008). Short-chain
lakes in “clean” sewage water (UBA 2009) (Weinberg 2010). However, there are no PFCs are as persistent as PFOA. It is
and disperses through waterways all data on the chemical behavior of materials also worrisome that short-chain PFCs
around the globe. Due to its high nutrient containing PFCs when they are incinerated can reach groundwater more easily be-
content, sewage sludge is often used as as waste. If combustion is incomplete, it cause they bond less well to particles.
agricultural fertilizer. In this way, PFCs leach is conceivable that dioxin-like substances Compared to PFOA, short-chain PFCs
into the soil and into groundwater, or accu- form. Here there is an urgent need for have been poorly investigated, a situa-
mulate in plants which are processed into research. tion which must be addressed urgently
food. A few years ago, the use of PFC- due to the increasing use and pervasive-
contaminated sewage sludge around the Since the public debate on PFOA (eight ness of these compounds. Germany’s
town of Arnsberg (in western Germany’s carbon atoms) is ongoing, the industry Federal Environment Agency does not
Hochsauerland district) meant that drinking has also recently begun to use short-chain rate these chemicals as environmentally-
water had become highly contaminated. PFCs (with four to six carbon atoms). friendly alternatives due to their high
Tests in Arnsberg revealed that people who In 2006, eight major fluorochemical manu- stability and potential to contaminate
had consumed contaminated drinking facturers pledged to reduce their PFOA drinking water (UBA 2009).
water had concentrations of up to eight emissions and residues in products by
times more PFOA in their blood than those 95 percent by 2010. Samples taken in the
who had not been exposed (UBA 2009). environment since then show an increa-
sing contamination with short-chain PFCs
Scientists have found PFCs in fish, meat, in water (Möller 2010) and air (Weinberg
milk products and plants, including in 2011). These short-chain alternatives
grains grown on contaminated soils. PFCs have also been found in Antarctica (Llorca
are in dust and indoor air. In fact, the in- 2012), in snow (Cai 2012), in drinking
door air of houses, apartments and offices water (Dauchy 2012) and in rainwater
is 30 to 570 times more contaminated than (Eschauzier 2010).
outdoor air (UBA 2009). Air measurements
taken inside two outdoor equipment stores
in Germany showed particularly high
concentrations of FTOHs (Langer 2010).
Scientists suspect that PFCs evaporating
from products such as impregnated
clothing are the source of this contami-11
12
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Results for perfluorinated and polyfluorinated compounds (PFCs)3. Results for perfluorinated
and polyfluorinated
compounds (PFCs) 13
2 15)
All 14 samples of outdoor clothing Significant levels of PFOA (> 1 μg/m ) Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) was not
contained extractable PFCs. This was were found in five of 14 samples, in the detected in any sample. The 2008 ban on
regardless of whether the label indica- jackets made by Jack Wolfskin, The North this substance is apparently effective.
ted that the product was made with a Face, Patagonia and Kaikkialla, and the
fluorine membrane such as Gore-Tex child’s pants from Marmot (see Figure 1). The findings of the PFC study are described
or Teflon, or finished with a coating below according to the class of substance.
containing fluorine compounds. The lowest concentrations of PFOA The test results are listed in detail in Tables
were found in jackets made by Mountain 1 to 4 of the Appendix.
Even the items of clothing for which pro- Equipment, Vaude Women and Zimtstern
duction intentionally abstained from using (manufactured for Greenpeace). In six
fluorochemicals, such as the jackets from of 14 samples, concentrations of PFOA
Fjällräven and Zimtstern, contained a small were above the detection level but below
2
amount of fluorine chemicals (see Table 3 0.3 μg/m . Samples were from the brands
13)
in the Appendix). The sources of these just named as well as from Adidas,
low concentrations are unclear. PFCs are Fjällräven and Seven Summits.
persistent and – as a consequence of their
industrial use – they are so widespread that The highest sums of all perfluorinated
it may be a real challenge to engage in clean carboxylic acids (PFCAs) were found in
2
production in which chemicals and/or jackets made by Kaikkialla (11 μg/m ) and
2
production facilities are not contaminated Patagonia (8.5 μg/m ), and in the child’s
14) 2
by PFCs. pants from Marmot (6.3 μg/m ). Sums were
lowest in the samples from Mountain
Equipment, Seven Summits and Zimtstern
(Greenpeace).
Fluorotelomer alcohols were found in
eight of 14 samples. Where FTOHs were
found, their concentrations were signifi-
cantly higher than concentrations of per-
fluorinated carboxylic acids. The highest
2
FTOH concentrations (> 400 μg/m ) were in
the jackets made by Mammut and Vaude
Kids. Likewise, high FTOH concentrations
2
(> 100 μg/m ) were found in the samples
from Kaikkialla and Patagonia (see Figure 2).
13) The Greenpeace jacket from Zimtstern, made with SympaTex and finished with BIONIC-FINISH ECO had the lowest residues of PFOA in the test series. That PFCs were detected at all may have various reasons (see section 3.1).
14) Greenpeace is taking on this challenge and will work together with manufacturers to investigate sources of contamination and produce jackets for its activists that are free of fluorocarbon compounds.
(Kindly note that these jackets are not for sale.) Contamination must cease.
15) Significant concentration: the EU permissible limit for perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) of 1µg/m² (micrograms of PFOS per square meter of fabric) is used as the comparison value.
PFOA’s hazardous properties are similar to those of PFOS – it is harmful to fertility (toxic to reproduction) and is suspected of being an endocrine (hormonal) disruptor.14
3
3.1 Perfluorinated carboxylic acids (PFCAs) with
perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
Among the PFCs found in every sample was In six of 14 samples, the PFOA concentra- Greenpeace believes that even minor
perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), a substance tion was above the detection level but be- contamination during production should
2
with hazardous properties. Since there low 0.3 μg/m . The lowest concentrations cease. To reach this objective, outdoor
are no regulations for PFOA, the EU limit of PFOA were measured in the jackets made clothing producers and their material sup-
value for perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) by Mountain Equipment, Vaude Women, pliers, but also the chemicals industry,
2
of 1 μg/m (micrograms of PFOS per square Zimtstern (manufactured for Greenpeace), must work together and strictly control
meter of fabric) was used as the comparison Adidas, Fjällräven and Seven Summits. It which substances are used in production.
value. PFOA’s hazardous properties are remains unclear where the contamination Greenpeace will work together with the
similar to those of PFOS – it is harmful for came from. It may be that factories produ- manufacturers of its activists’ jackets
fertility (toxic to reproduction) and is sus- cing textiles containing fluorine compounds (not for sale) to investigate sources of PFC
pected of being an endocrine (hormonal) are not able to manufacture fabrics that contamination and take corrective action.
disruptor. are completely free of PFCs. This would
necessitate textiles being manufactured
2
PFOA concentration of 1 μg/m was excee- in plants that completely exclude using
ded in five samples: the Jack Wolfskin child’s perfluorinated chemicals. But it is also
jacket, the North Face woman’s jacket, conceivable that contamination occurs in
the Marmot child’s pants, the Patagonia transit, during storage or in the store.
woman’s jacket and the Kaikkialla Even the process of sampling and testing
woman’s jacket (see Figure 1). can lead to contamination.
Figure 1: Concentrations of perfluorinated carboxylic acids (PFCAs) in 14 samples of outdoor clothing
PFOA concentration in μg/m2
Sum PFCA
– 12
11,0
– 11
– 10
–9
8,5
–8
–7
6,3
–6
5,4
5,1 5,0
–5
–4
3,4
2,8 –3
2,3 2,2
2,0
–2
1,6
1,2 1,2 1,2
1,0
0,7 0,6 0,6 0,7 0,6
–1
0,3 0,3 0,3 0,4 0,3
0,2 0,2
–0
Zimtstern / Jack Vaude Vaude North Face Mountain Marmot Fjällräven Patagonia adidas Northland Seven Mammut Kaikkialla
Greenpeace Wolfskin Child’s Woman’s Woman’s Equipement Child’s Woman’s Woman’s Woman’s Child’s Summits Woman’s Woman’s
Light Child’s Jacket Jacket Jacket Woman’s Pants Jacketn Jacket Jacket Poncho Child’s Jacket Jacket
Jacket Jacket Jacket Jacket15
3.2 Fluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs)
FTOHs were found in eight of the 14 samp- item containing (considerably higher) Fluorotelomer alcohols, when used for
2
les. The highest concentration of fluorotelo- 352 μg/m of 6:2 FTOH. Long-chain C10 waterproof and dirt-repellent finishes, are
mer alcohols was found in the jacket from telomers were used in the products from supposed to ensure that fewer PFC inter-
2
Mammut (464 μg/m ). The child’s jacket Vaude, Patagonia, Mammut and Kaikkialla. mediates such as PFOS are formed. They
made by Vaude also had a high concentra- are divided into long-chain and short-chain
2
tion of FTOHs at 419 μg/m (see Figure 2). Next to the fluorotelomer alcohols, fluoro- compounds. Basically, the longer their
telomer acrylates (FTAs), also known as chains, the more these toxic substances can
Test results showed that some manufactu- polyfluorinated acrylates, were also detec- accumulate in an organism. The compound
rers are already using C6 telomer alcohols, ted in some samples. These acrylates are 8:2 FTOH must be evaluated critically be-
which were dominant in the jackets from intermediates in the production of fluori- cause it is converted into PFOA through
Adidas und Fjällräven. The item from nated polymers. Like the C8 telomers, they oxidation in the atmosphere and in the
2
Adidas contained 99 μg/m of 6:2 FTOH. can be converted into PFOA through oxi- body. Some manufacturers therefore want
Although the Fjällräven jacket was explicitly dation. Significant C8 FTA concentrations to switch from C8 to short-chain substances
2
labeled as PFC-free, it contained 52 μg/m were found in the items from Vaude, The such as 6:2 FTOH. But C6 and C4 PFCs,
of this substance. North Face, Marmot and Patagonia, as well used as alternatives, are also persistent and
as in the Mammut and Kaikkialla items found in the environment and in humans
C6 telomer alcohols were also found in purchased in Switzerland. Lower concen- around the world. They can also oxidize
the Northland child’s poncho purchased in trations of C8 FTA were found in the into their respective carboxylic acids, which
2
Austria (17.6 μg/m of 6:2 FTOH) and in Jack Wolfskin, Mountain Equipment and are potentially hazardous to health.
the two jackets purchased in Switzerland, Adidas items, and the lowest concentration
with the Kaikkialla article containing of C8-FTA was found in the Greenpeace So far, no regulation or value limits have
2
27.0 μg/m of 6:2 FTOH, and the Mammut (Zimtstern) jacket. been established for fluorotelomer alcohols.
Figure 2: Concentrations of fluorotelomer alcohols (FTOHs) in 14 samples of outdoor clothing
concentration in μg/m2
8:2 FTOH 6:2 FTOH
Sum FTOH Sum FTA
– 500
– 450
– 400
– 350
– 300
– 250
– 200
– 150
– 100
– 50
–0
Zimtstern / Jack Vaude Vaude North Face Mountain Marmot Fjällräven Patagonia adidas Northland Seven Mammut Kaikkialla
Greenpeace Wolfskin Child’s Woman’s Woman’s Equipement Child’s Woman’s Woman’s Woman’s Child’s Summits Woman’s Woman’s
Light Child’s Jacket Jacket Jacket Woman’s Pants Jacket Jacket Jacket Poncho Child’s Jacket Jacket
Jacket Jacket Jacket Jacket16
3
3.3 Perfluorinated sulfonate (PFOS)
No perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) was PFOS has been covered by the Stockholm
found in the investigation. PFOS is rated as Convention since 2009. A permissible limit
a PBT substance (Persistent, Bioaccumula- was set for PFOS of 1 µg/m2 (one micro-
tive, Toxic). The use and marketing of PFOS gram of PFOS per 1 square meter of fabric)
has been banned in the EU since 2008, for textiles and coatings. This value also
with a few exceptions. Evidently the ban applies to imported products such as
on PFOS has been effective. textiles.17
18
4
Results for other toxins4. Results for other toxins 19
All samples of outdoor clothing were tested Other chemicals used in textile production,
16)
for alkylphenol ethoxylates, which are used itemized on Greenpeace’s Detox List,
as tensides or surfactants in wet processes were not investigated if there was no im-
in textile production. All samples were also mediate suspicion of their presence.
tested for the phthalate group of substances
which are used as plasticizers. The findings of the test series and the me-
thodology applied are explained in detail
Depending on the nature of the textiles in in Tables 5 and 6 of the Appendix. Here is
question, some samples were additionally an overview of the most important results.
screened for other toxins. Testing was
done for aromatic compounds released
from azo dyes, organotin compounds
and antimony. The specialist laboratory
itself selected which products to test for
these harmful substances.
Table 2: Results for other harmful substances
Brand Country of Product Name or Nonylphenol Phthalate Organotins Antimony Isocyanates
Name Production Description Ethoxylate17) (Sum)18)
mg/kg mg/kg mg/kg mg/kg mg/kg
Purchased in
gekauft
Zimtstern / China Light rain jacket for women 15 3
Greenpeace
Jack Wolfskin Indonesia Cloud Stream Jacket (for children/boys) 9
Vaude China Kids Escape Jacket 13 3 30 23 (TDI22))
Vaude Vietnam Escape Bike Jacket III (for women) 10 13 (MOT ) 19)
10 16
4,8 (DOT20))
North Face China Sutherland Jacket (for women) 5 40
Mountain Ukraine WMNS Firefox-Jacket 11
Equipment
Marmot China Boy’s Torrey Pant #64310 5
Fjällräven China Eco-Trail Jacket Women (Trekking) 19 (NP; 8) 16 120
Patagonia China Piolet Jacket Lady Black (Modell 2012) 4 35
Adidas China Terrex Feather Jacket (for women) 20 (NP; 8) 16*
Purchased in
Austria
Northland China Basic Child Rain Poncho 5700 10
Seven Summits China Tamina Kinder-Regenjacke 320 270
(child’s rain jacket)
Purchased in
Switzerland
Mammut China Fujiyama Jacket Women 88* 1
Kaikkialla China Annuka Jacket Womens XS 9 22* 2,3 / 0,55 / 5,8 / 2
5,6 / 0,1821)
16) See Section 7.1 in the Appendix.
17) The detection limit for nonylphenol ethoxylate (NPE) was 5 mg/kg in the method used; for nonylphenol (NP) it was 3 mg/kg.
18) In the samples marked with an asterisk*, testing was done on the fabric’s plastisol print.
19) Monooctyltin
20) Dioctyltin
21) Monobutytin MBT, Monooctyltin MOT, Dibutyltin DBT, Dioctyltin DOT, Tetraethyltin TeEtT
22) Toluylene diisocyanate20
4
4.1 Alkylphenol ethoxylates
Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) were found contained 320 mg/kg of NPE. Other signi- All of these items were manufactured in
in five of the 14 samples. NPEs belong to ficant concentrations were found in the China. In 2011, Greenpeace proved that
the substance group of alkylphenol ethoxy- jackets from Vaude (NPE 13 mg/kg), nonylphenol from the textile industry
lates, are very harmful to the environment Fjällräven (NPE 19 mg/kg, plus NP 8 mg/kg) constitutes a serious problem of water
24)
and should not be detectable because and Adidas (NPE 20 mg/kg). The Kaikkialla pollution in China. NPEs are used in the
they degrade to nonylphenol (NP). NP is jacket purchased in Switzerland contained dyeing process. Their effect is similar
23)
persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic, an NPE concentration of 9 mg/kg. to that of estrogen and they can disrupt
and can disrupt the endocrine (hormonal) the development of reproductive organs
systems of animals and humans. Lower levels of NPEs do not necessarily in fish and other aquatic animals. Since
indicate that NPEs were used in lower January 2005, textiles containing more
The highest concentration of NPEs was amounts during manufacturing. Greenpeace than 0.1 percent of NPs or NPEs are not
found in the Seven Summits child’s rain reported in 2012 that NPE residues can marketable.
jacket purchased in Austria. This sample be washed out in just a few washes.
25) GOTS: Global Organic Textile Standard: http://tilth.org/files/certification/GOTSStandard.pdf
4.2 Phthalate plasticizers
Plasticizers in the phthalate group of with high market shares, especially in These concentrations indicate that phtha-
substances were detected in every sample. China and South America. lates were probably not used intentionally
26)
The highest concentration, 5,700 mg/kg, as plasticizers, but are contaminants.
was in the Northland child’s rain poncho. The Seven Summits child’s jacket purchas-
The di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) found ed in Austria also contained significant Phthalates are used as plasticizers, for
is considered to be particularly harmful. concentrations of phthalates (270 mg/kg, instance to soften the rigid plastic PVC.
dominated by 260 ppm of DiNP). In com- In the textile industry they are used for
In comparison, the currently valid EU parison, the sum of phthalates in textiles artificial leather, rubber and for printing
guideline for toys or objects that children manufactured in compliance with the (plastisol or dyes). Phthalates can severely
25)
can put into their mouths prescribes a GOTS standard is not allowed to be more disrupt the endocrine system and lead
permissible limit of 1,000 mg/kg (equivalent than 100mg/kg. to infertility and adiposity. According
to 0.1 percent by mass). Because the pro- to the EU chemicals regulation REACH
duct tested is a rain poncho for children, In the other twelve samples, phthalate con- (Registration, Evaluation, and Authorisation
the concentration found is unacceptable. centrations were lower than 100mg/kg, and of CHemicals), some compounds in this
Northland is an Austrian outdoor brand in six samples they were below 10mg/kg. group will be banned from 2015.
23) The non-detection of NPEs does not rule out NPEs being used in the production of a garment, as the finished clothing may have undergone thorough washing prior to retailing. This may have washed out all residues of NPEs
from the fabric prior to sale. Such washing would only have further contributed to inputs of NPEs/NP into the environment during the manufacturing stage.
24) http://www.greenpeace.de/fileadmin/gpd/user_upload/themen/chemie/Dirty_LaundryHung_Out_to_Dry_WEB_FINAL2.pdf und http://www.greenpeace.de/fileadmin/gpd/user_upload/themen/chemie/20110826_FS_Nonylphenol_FINAL2.pdf
25) GOTS: Global Organic Textile Standard: http://tilth.org/files/certification/GOTSStandard.pdf
26) Either phthalates were used elsewhere in the production facilities or contamination was a result of samples being in contact with other items that contained phthalates.21
4.3 Azo dyes 4.4 Organotin compounds
Testing was also done for carcinogenic The use of organotin compounds is already 18 mg/kg of tetraethyltin (TeET), 2.3 mg/kg
aromatic amines that can be released from heavily restricted due to the toxicity of these of monobutyltin (MBT), 0.55 mg/kg of MOT,
azo dyes. They were not detected in any chemicals. The GOTS standard allows no and 5.8 mg/kg of dibutyltin (DBT).
of the samples tested, which were from the more than 0.05 mg/kg of tributyltin (TBT),
products made by Vaude, The North Face, and the OEKO-TEX standard for textiles sets Organic tin compounds are used as bio-
Adidas, Seven Summits, Mammut and a limit of 0.5 mg/kg for TBT and 1.0 mg/kg cides and anti-fungal agents. They have
Kaikkialla. Some azo dyes used in the for dioctyltin (DOT). The samples from an antibacterial effect on socks, shoes and
textile industry can cause cancer when Vaude, Mammut and Kaikkialla were tested. sportswear and are supposed to prevent
they release cancerogenic amines. Both standards’ limits were significantly odors. They are also used in PU as an acce-
exceeded in the Vaude jacket for women; lerator. If tributyltin (TBT) is released into
the value for DOT was 4.8 kg/mg and for the environment, it can accumulate in the
monooctyltin (MOT) 13 mg/kg. The Kaik- body where it disrupts the immune system
kialla jacket contained 5.6 mg/kg of DOT, and diminishes fertility.
4.5 Antimony 4.6 Isocyanates Illustration 1: Soxhlet solvent extraction
Illustration 2: Textile sample in a separating
funnel (GC-MS)
Illustration 3: Analysis in the gas chromatograph
Antimony is used in the production of Isocyanates are used in polyurethane (PU) Illustration 4: Inserting samples into the scanning
polyester; its toxicity is often compared to production. They can trigger allergies and electron microscope (SEM)
that of arsenic. Antimony should not be in cause severe irritation to the respiratory Illustration 5: Analysis of clothing samples
children’s clothing. Because antimony is tract; they can also damage the lungs and in the SEM
used to manufacture polyester, all jackets cause asthma. Some of them are suspected Illustration 6: Analysis of polyester membrane
with a polyester membrane were tested. of being carcinogenic; one such compound at a magnification of 70
These were from Vaude, The North Face, is toluene diisocyanate.
Fjällräven, Northland, Patagonia, Mammut
and Kaikkialla. Polyurethane thermal insulation and PU
membranes come into question as sources
The highest concentration was found in the of isocyanates. The membranes of both
Fjällräven jacket (120 mg/kg). The North Vaude jackets were made either of PU or
Face jacket contained 40 mg/kg, and the of polyester laminated with PU, and iso-
jacket from Patagonia contained 35 mg/kg cyanates were detected in both. The Kids
of antimony. Much lower concentrations Escape Jacket contained 23 mg/kg of toluene
were detected in the jackets from Northland diisocyanate, and the Escape Bike Jacket
(10 mg/kg), Mammut (1 mg/kg), Kaikkialla for women contained 16 mg/kg of this
(2 mg/kg) and Zimtstern (manufactured substance. Testing was done in a VOC
for Greenpeace, 3 mg/kg). screening process.22
4
The outdoor industry – China
still not trailblazers in protecting the environment China is Germany’s largest import
The outdoor industry stands for cutting Advertising uses pictures of daring skiers trade partner for textiles. Some
loose and being close to nature. This po- plunging through deep snow and fear- 30 percent of total annual imports of
sitive image has brought strong double- less climbers scaling dizzying heights – textiles and apparel come from the
digit growth in recent years to the sup- although most customers are not excep- People’s Republic. Textile production
pliers of weather clothing. The European tional athletes but city dwellers looking steps for 95 percent of the textiles
market in 2010 was worth about 4.5 billion to stay warm and dry during a bike ride available on the German market are
euros. Germany, with a turnover of 1.02 or a walk in the rain. Nevertheless, the partially or wholly outsourced abroad.
billion euros, is the leader in Europe, fol- industry has started a veritable arms race This makes it particularly difficult
lowed by Great Britain, Ireland and France. so that outdoor clothing can withstand to control the use of substances
ever more extreme weather conditions – that are harmful to the environment
Jackets and pants are the most popular and this has been accompanied by a and health.
items (50 percent), followed by shoes steady increase in chemical pollution,
(25 percent), and backpacks (6 percent). especially from controversial PFCs.
Consumers often pay several hundred
euros for an extra warm deluxe anorak The latest novelties can be admired at the
and – unlike in the fast fashion industry – OutDoor show in Friedrichshafen, where
do not haggle over every cent. Profits of in July 2012 more than 900 businesses
the VF Corporation, to which the world’s and manufacturers exhibited their pro-
largest outdoor wear supplier The North ducts. But the hazards of the substances
Face belongs as a brand, rose between used for production are kept secret from
2007 and 2011 from 24 to 36 million nature-conscious clientele. Instead, the
dollars. talk is about natural fibers made of corn,
coconut, hemp and merino wool. The
Brands like The North Face, Patagonia, industry has made real progress in en-
Vaude or Jack Wolfskin have long since vironmental protection elsewhere, but
become household names, not only for here it has been criminally careless,
mountain climbers and hikers. The indus- neglecting to replace the problematic
try has gone from being a specialist chemical compounds used in membranes,
supplier to a producer of trendy everyday coatings and finishings. Greenpeace’s
clothes. Every city’s downtown area Detox campaign is now stirring this up.
boasts brand name stores. Jack Wolfskin
(from Idstein in Germany) alone has
200 of its own stores between the North
Sea and the Alps, and in China it sells
its products in more than 300 stores.23
24
5
Alternatives to fluorocarbon coatings and finishes5. Alternatives to fluorocarbon
coatings and finishes 25
Fluorine-free technologies are becoming Whether an item of clothing is waterproof Regarding oil repellency, however, the
increasingly available on the market. An and can withstand even a strong downpour products containing controversial PFCs
investigative research project at the Berlin is not governed by the outer coating or are superior to fluorine-free alternatives.
University of Applied Sciences (HTW) finish. Waterproofing, windproofing, air There is still no replacement product with
attested to the performance of these alter- permeability and breathability depend oil-repelling qualities. Here research is
27)
natives to fluorine products. chiefly on the membrane on the inside of needed. But experience has shown that
the jacket. Here lab testing showed that effective products are ready for the market
Fabrics for apparel with wind and weather the fluorine-free SympaTex membrane and available as soon as outdoor clothing
protection are generally impregnated on could withstand high water pressure and manufacturers specify a deadline by which
the outside and have a membrane on the its performance was in fact as good, if not time they want to completely stop using
inside. Alternatives to fluorine membranes better, than that of Gore-Tex. Over and hazardous chemicals.
®
based on PTFE (such as Gore-Tex ) are above that, fluorine-free membranes are
membranes made from polyester (such very breathable and allow perspiration For the consumer, oil repellency is generally
®
as SympaTex ) or polyurethane (PU). to evaporate to the outside. Testing also not a relevant criterion – the decisive factor
Alternatives to fluorocarbon finishes and showed another advantage – the alterna- is optimal water repellency. Functional
coatings are waxes, paraffins (such as tives’ windproofing qualities were as good clothing is supposed to keep the wearer
® ®
ecorepel ), polyurethane (such as Purtex ), as those of conventional membranes dry, inside and outside. The research study
®
dendrimers (such as BIONIC-FINISH ECO) containing fluorine compounds. explains that good workmanship on jackets
and silicones. and pants is also essential for the wearer’s
The additional coating or finishing of an comfort. Good quality means that zippers
Three fluorine-free coatings and finishes article’s outside surface is there to repel are covered and seams are glued so that
and one fluorine-free membrane were water, dirt and oily substances. Testing water and air cannot penetrate through.
tested in the laboratory to compare their showed that fluorine-free alternatives were
performance to that of conventional fluoro- just as waterproof and that water beaded Marijke Schöttmer’s research findings
carbon products. Testing investigated off these materials just as well. Only the provided evidence that the outdoor clothing
properties such as oil repellency, water PU finish demonstrated less of the water- industry can go without using PFC and
repellency, waterproofing, resistance to beading effect, but the wearer remained nevertheless manufacture items that meet
abrasion, windproofing, and breathability. dry. The protective finishing of fluorine-free most customers’ demands for functionality.
alternatives can be reactivated by refresh- Before being used, alternatives need to be
ing it with PFC-free agents. For the longe- checked for hazardousness to health and
vity of outdoor clothing, it is important environment.
that the coating is resistant to abrasion.
The BIONIC-FINISH ECO made by the
Rudolf company shows particularly high
abrasion resistance, even after 10,000
abrasion cycles. In fact, it performs better
than conventional finishes containing
fluorine compounds.
27) Marijke Schöttmer, master’s thesis: Investigation of Alternatives to Fluorocarbon Finishes for Textiles. Berlin University of Applied Sciences, 2012.26
5
Figure 3: Fluorine-free alternatives under the electron microscope
Sample 1: Sample 1:
® ®
SympaTex : membrane at a magnification of 220 SympaTex finish at a magnification of 130
Illustration 1 – membrane Illustration 2 – fabric with finish
Sample 2: Sample 4:
®
Schoeller Ecorepel at a magnification of 130 Freudenberg at a magnification of 130
Illustration 1 – fabric with finish Illustration 1 – fabric with finish27
Tips for consumers
Necessity or desire? Buy classic pieces. Empty out your closet.
For which purpose do you need outdoor Select items of clothing that are not Are there clothes in your closet that you
clothing? For an expedition to the Arctic outdated after one season. Clothing never wear? Get rid of them! Give them
or for an autumn walk? For normal rainy or worn for a long time is truly ecological. to friends, donate them to charities,
slushy weather your jacket does not need sell them, auction them off, or throw a
to withstand a 50,000 mm water column. Buy green. clothing-swap party.
Selective buying helps outdoor clothing If you do need new functional clothing,
manufacturers phase out their high- select items that are largely free of PFCs. Return outdoor articles to the store.
performance rat race that calls for using There are outdoor brands that use only Some manufacturers such as Patagonia
ever more chemicals. fluorine-free membranes. There is very take back worn-out clothes and shoes
little difference in price. in their stores.
Beware of textile labels.
Certifications and textile labels indicate Buy quality. Become active.
that materials are free of hazardous Check the workmanship of the article. Check with your favorite brand or ask at
substances, which is not always true. It’s better to leave it on the rack if it your favorite store whether they imple-
In spite of known risks to health and the doesn’t pass inspection for quality work ment ecological and socially responsible
environment, products coated with on zippers and seams. policies and find out how they manage
fluorine compounds can still be awarded their chemicals. Let salespeople know
the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 or the Do laundry in an environmentally- that you like the clothing but that you
bluesign standard that is popular with friendly way. want to see improvements in production.
outdoor clothing manufacturers. There is A large share of the environmental life
an urgent need to raise these standards. cycle assessment of clothing is attributed Join campaigns.
to laundering. Make sure your washer is Tell your family, friends, and colleagues
Buy secondhand items. filled to capacity. Most electricity is used about these problems in the textile indus-
In thrift shops, at flea markets and on the to heat water. Use low temperatures – try. To sensitize this issue, Greenpeace is
Internet, there are masses of clothing in fact, washing normally soiled clothes putting pressure on the textile industry –
that others no longer wear. This is where at 30 degrees centigrade will get them for a toxin-free future.
you can sometimes find items that be- clean.
come long-time favorites.28
6
Conclusions and recommendations6. Conclusions
and recommendations 29
The outdoor clothing industry presents Our investigation also tested for other
a very flattering image of itself and ex- substances hazardous to health such as What must happen next
presses commitment to environmental plasticizers and alkylphenol ethoxylates. The outdoor clothing industry is called
protection in numerous publications Our findings emphasize the urgent on to ban hazardous substances such
and promotional activities. However, need to ban dangerous chemicals from as PFCs from its production processes
the Greenpeace investigation described outdoor clothing production. and immediately switch to safe functional
here points out a mismatch between alternatives wherever possible. The in-
assertion and action. The industry is still Outdoor clothing brands make the consu- dustry must immediately take steps to
far from reducing its use of hazardous mers of their products unwitting assistants further develop safer alternatives and use
chemicals to zero and thereby ending its in releasing perfluorinated compounds them in production. Greenpeace calls
pollution of waters and drinking water. to the environment. Even if the amount on all manufacturers of outdoor clothing
Water is a scarce and threatened re- of PFC is low in single items of clothing to immediately address this issue and
source in many regions of the world. tested, the total amount released from the begin phasing out the entire group of
massive volume of clothing sold today PFC compounds from production.
Since 2011, Greenpeace activists have can be substantial. Greenpeace is working
been working around the world in the on instituting a register of hazardous The key elements for a toxin-free
Detox campaign for the production of substance emissions in China. Only in future are:
textiles free from harmful substances. By this way can local residents find out which
testing samples of wastewater and textiles, chemicals have contaminated the waste- The phaseout of PFC chemistry
Greenpeace has revealed that the textile water from “their” textile factory. and authentic commitment to
industry releases chemical compounds this endeavor.
that are harmful to the environment and Next to this analytical investigation of All dangerous chemicals must be banned
health. Eleven groups of substances are hazardous substances, Greenpeace also from manufacturing processes and their
named which must be phased out of textile helped to see through a research project on products. The findings from this product
production due to their hazardous pro- “Alternatives to Fluorocarbon Finishes investigation underline the urgent need to
perties. Among these groups are the per- for Textiles” carried out at the Berlin Uni- ban PFCs from outdoor wear production.
fluorinated chemical compounds (PFCs). versity of Applied Sciences in 2012. In this PFC-free materials are already available
Some PFCs are known to be endocrine context, fluorine-free alternative fabrics today. The outdoor clothing industry must
(hormone system) disruptors and harmful were physically tested for their capabilities continue to develop safer alternatives and
28)
to the reproductive system. and chemically tested for hazardous sub- use them in processing their products.
stances. The project proved that fluorine-
This study identified per- and polyfluori- free materials are already on the market Precaution.
nated chemicals in outdoor articles manu- that largely meet expectations for outdoor The hazardous properties of well-re-
factured for major brands and drew con- clothing and that can be used in their searched PFCs such as PFOS and PFOA
clusions about environmental risks and production. and insufficient data on other PFCs call
the safety of consumers. Although some for much more stringent regulation to
outdoor clothing manufacturers have protect health and the environment. In
switched to using short-chain alternatives view of the hazardous properties of
in their production, Greenpeace’s test series C8 PFCs (PFOA and PFOS) and in view
has shown that the use of C8 fluorotelomer of research findings indicating that other
alcohols is still common practice. Textiles PFCs (C6) possess similar hazardous
are free of PFOS, but still contain PFOA properties, it is not enough to regulate
as an impurity or degraded product. only single substances such as PFOA.
The entire group of PFCs has to be under
scrutiny for a possible regulative ban.
It’s time to act. Now.
www.greenpeace.de/detox
28) http://www.ipe.org.cn/En/pollution/30
7
Appendix
Key steps to Detox our clothes The need for government action
To effectively stop the pollution of our Governments need to do their share as
waters with hazardous chemicals, brands well and adopt political commitment to the
should: zero discharge of all hazardous chemi-
cals within one generation, based on the
credibly commit to phasing out the precautionary principle and including
use of all toxic chemicals in their global a preventative approach by avoiding
supply chains and in all products by the production and use, and therefore,
1 January 2020. exposure to hazardous chemicals.
Credible commitment means that three This commitment must be matched with
fundamental principles are unambiguously an implementation plan containing inter-
29)
adopted – precaution , comprehensive mediate short-term targets, a dynamic list
and complete elimination (including zero of priority hazardous substances requiring
30) 31)
discharges) , and the right to know . immediate action based on the substi-
tution principle, and a publicly available
walk the talk by committing to rapid register of data on discharge emissions
and full public disclosure of the use and and losses of hazardous substances,
release of toxic chemicals in and from such as a Pollutant Release and Transfer
suppliers’ facilities. This information must Register (PRTR).
be precise and comprehensive, and it
must be updated at regular and relevant Governments must adopt comprehensive
intervals (at least once a year), especially chemicals management policies and
with regard to local/national inhabitants. regulations in order to:
32)
Credible public information platforms ) level the playing field and make leading
should be used for this purpose. Clear and brands’ actions a reality throughout the
ambitious deadlines must be set for the entire sector and beyond, as many of the
elimination of priority substances such hazardous chemicals used in textiles are
as APEs, and a new sectoral blacklist of also in use in other sectors;
hazardous chemicals to be eliminated give industry a clear direction by showing
must be drawn up which is based on and that hazardous chemicals have no place
takes into account the intrinsic properties in a sustainable society, which will in
already identified in other hazardous turn drive innovation towards safer alter-
chemicals. natives; and
prevent ongoing releases into the envi-
ronment that may require future clean-up
and have serious impact on the environ-
ment and on people’s health and liveli-
hoods, especially in the Global South.
29) This means "caution practiced in the context of uncertainty." An action (such as the use of a chemical substance and/or process) should not be taken if the consequences are uncertain and potentially dangerous.
30) "Zero" means zero use of all hazardous substances, via all pathways of release (i.e., discharges, emissions and losses), in global supply chains and in all products. “Elimination” means “not detectable,” to the limits of current technology,
and where only naturally occurring (where relevant) background levels are acceptable.
31) All local communities sharing their water systems with the production of apparel/footwear and/or the products produced, all workers within this global supplier chain, and all customers have the right to know, on an ongoing basis,
precisely which substances are being released from precisely which facilities during production and from the products themselves.
32) For example, IPE in China; see http://www.ipe.org.cn/en/pollution/You can also read
