Cairo's Urban Transformation - Mohandeseen and Zamalek Narratives
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M. Donelson, G. Vignola, W. Dickhaut, Xh. Haveriku
Cairo’s Urban Transformation
Mohandeseen and Zamalek Narratives
IMPRINT M. Donelson, G. Vignola, W. Dickhaut, Xh. Haveriku © HafenCity University Hamburg (HCU) and Cairo University Cairo’s Urban Transformation (CU), 2018. Texts by kind permission of the authors. Pictures if not credited otherwise published with kind permission of HCU Mohandeseen and Zamalek Narratives and CU. All rights reserved. Concept: Gionatan Vignola & Maya Donelson Editors: Maya Donelson, Gionatan Vignola, Wolfgang Dickhaut, Xhelona Haveriku | HCU Hamburg Co-authors: Abbadi, E., Abdelhady, A., Abegunrin, O., Amaral, R., Amer, M., Ardila, J., Berninger, R., Camara, C., De Lima, J., Eihusseiny, M., Elmeligy, A., Elnadi, N., Elnour, N., Elsaieed, A., Elshaar, M., Emad, A., Esmen, E., Geleta, S., Guasp, D., Haiba, A., Kamel, R., Lopes, A., Magar, M., Magdy, S., Mazzara, C., Mohamed, E., Mostafa, H., Mostafa, R., Nada, H., Niaei, P., Ovri, V., Pascoli, C., Phillips., W., Ramirez, S., Rumiantceva, K., Salem, A., Salvisberg, E., Sengen, H., Tortelli, C., Trakantalerngsak, L., Yilmaz, M. Design and layout: Xhelona Haveriku Translation to Arabic: Heba Allah E. Khalil Distribution: HafenCity University Hamburg | Department of Environmentally Sound Urban and Infrastructure Planning | Prof. Dr.-Ing. Wolfgang Dickhaut | www.reap.hcu-hamburg.de | wolfgang.dickhaut@hcu-hamburg.de Cairo University | Department of Architectural Engineering | Prof. Dr. Sahar Attia | http://arch.eng.cu.edu.eg/ | sahar.attia@gmail.com ISBN: 978-3-941722-82-8
Workshop participants // Co-authors
Mohandeseen, Lebanon Street
Interviews on pages 8-11, photos on pages 30-45
Alaa Emad Abdelbaset Ahmed, Cairo University Opening
Johanna Cortes Ardila, HafenCity University
Noura Hamada Abu Elnour, Cairo University
Aya Alsaieed Elsaieed, Cairo University
Ecesu Esmen, HafenCity University Not unlike other major cities around the world, Cairo has
Samson Geleta, HafenCity University
Lanna Trakantalerngsak, HafenCity University undergone a significant transformation over the course
Mert Yilmaz, HafenCity University of its long history. While some elements of the past are
still visible, the most notable being the Pyramids of Giza,
Mohandeseen, Aswan Square
Interviews on pages 12-15, photos on pages 46-61 and arabic cover other elements have long since disappeared. It is hard
Oluwaseun Abegunrin, HafenCity University to imagine that historic Cairo was once at the center of
Miral Essam Abou-Elfetouh Ali Amer, Cairo University a fertile landscape dotted with lakes, especially when
Camila Maria Camara, HafenCity University
Abdelrahman El-Sayed Mohamed Haiba, Cairo University confronted with today’s realities of a dense mostly gray
Andrea da Costa Carvalho Almeida Lopes, HafenCity University cityscape covered by a thin layer of dust and a host of
Maggie Leon Magar, Cairo University environmental problems.
Parvaneh Niaei, HafenCity University
Abdulhady Ramadan, Cairo University
Emily Salvisberg, HafenCity University Cairo is the largest mega-city on the African continent
and it continues to transform rapidly, both formally and
Zamalek, Ismael Mohammed Street
Interviews on pages 16-19, photos on pages 62-77 informally. In an effort to guide Cairo’s transformation
Aya Mohamed Faried Elmeligy, Cairo University and limit informal development on its remaining fertile
Marwa Ahmed Mostafa Elshaar, Cairo University land, new state funded desert cities are being planned,
Rashed Mostafa Kamel, Cairo University
Hind Mostafa Mohamed Mostafa, Cairo University built and inhabited. At the same time, massive tower
Victor Ovri, HafenCity University blocks have replaced the once characteristic large
Wesley Alistair Phillips, HafenCity University prosperous villa estates within formally developed
Susana Giraldo Ramirez, HafenCity University
Carla Tortelli, HafenCity University core-city areas such as Zamalek and Mohandeseen. In
Zamalek this transformation has caused many upper
Zamalek, 26th of July Street class residents to withdraw to the desert cities leaving
Interviews on pages 20-23, photos on pages 78-93
Esraa Mohamed Abbadi, Cairo University behind signs of decay, while Mohandeseen has become
Rebekka Berninger, HafenCity University one of the most expensive areas in Cairo leaving almost
Malak Emad Eihusseiny, Cairo University no trace of the Garden City concept which guided
Shaimaa Magdy, Cairo University
Clarisa Mazzara, HafenCity University its early development. While much needed attention
Hossam Nada, HafenCity University goes to the expansion and improvement of informal
Hans Sengen, HafenCity University areas and to the creation of new desert cities, it is also
Zamalek, Abou El Feda Street important to learn from the past as well as to guide
Interviews on pages 24-27, photos on pages 94-109 and english cover the future transformation of core-city areas such as
Roberta von Zimmermann Amaral, HafenCity University Mohandeseen and Zamalek. The following investigates
Juliana Braga Webel de Lima, HafenCity University
Nourhan Mohamed Elnadi | Cairo University the transformation of select areas of Mohandeseen
David Martinez Guasp, HafenCity University around Lebanon Street and Aswan Square in addition to
Esraa Walid Abbas Mohamed, Cairo University Zamalek to the north of the Gezira Sporting Club.
Rashed Mostafa, Cairo University
Cesar Coimbra Pascoli, HafenCity University
Kristina Rumiantceva, HafenCity University
Ahmed Mohamed Nour Salem, Cairo University
2 3
Zamalek
Abou El Feda Street
Zamalek
Ismael Mohammed Street
Zamalek
26th of July Street
Mohandeseen
Lebanon Street
Mohandeseen
Aswan Square
[m] 500 Source: Google Earth 7.1.8 (10.02.2018). Cairo. 30°03’13.46” N, 31°12’41.85” E,
elevation 0M. DigitalGlobe. Viewed 03.12.2008.
4 5
الخامتة Oral Narratives
متنح الرسديات البرصية والشفهية نظرة خاطفة Residents and visitors were interviewed
للامىض ،توثق الحارض ومتثل مصدر الهام للمستقبل. about the urban transformation
وعىل الرغم من أن الساكنني والزائرين قد وجدوا process.
أنه أسهل عليهم النظر إىل املاىض والحنني إىل ما
قد كان ،إال أن هذا يذكر بأن النظر إىل األمام له
نفس األهمية يف القدرة عىل رؤية وتخطيط وتنفيذ
تدخالت تيرس تحول املدينة بشكل مستدام.
6 7
“I cannot afford a taxi Fawzy Hessen Ahmed
60 years old
Nabil Nagiub Saweras
40 years old
“Neighborhood
every day.” Male nurse
Lebanon Street
Apartment Security Guard
Lebanon Street
transformation
See related photos on page 30 - 33 See related photos on page 34 - 37
brought plenty of job
opportunities.”
For the last five months, Fawzy Hessen the current transportation chaos which Change is an undesirable process and by in Ard-El Lewa as are many others who
Ahmed commutes from his home, located affects the city. Besides, the high price many, even resisted. However, we need are working in the stores you see here” he
in an informal settlement named Ard of daily needs is an extra cost for Fawzy to look at the events in a realistic way and repeatedly states. He has been working for
El Lewa, to his current job on Lebanon Hessen Ahmed as a male nurse. see the positive and negative aspects. ten years as a security guard for a high-rise
Street. Due to the proximity between Cairo is a city under constant change building.
his home and work environment, The majority of the residents on and as a result of population growth and
transportation hasn’t been a problem. around Lebanon Street are from the economic reasons. A negative aspect of this transformation
Moreover, he adds “it only takes 20 Emirates and Saudi Arabia. Additionally, and a growing population is traffic
minutes”. Considering the chaotic traffic he includes, “dealing and working with Mohandeseen’s transformation congestion on Lebanon street and many
situation in Cairo, commuting less than an high-class residents is pleasant.” He also contributed positively to the area other places in the city. It takes more than
hour per day is miraculous. However, the mentions how the Egyptian revolution in and surrounding neighborhoods. It an hour to commute for many. Moreover,
absence of public transport on the street 2011 transformed land use. It altered the transformed from villas and mansions he states “it harms poor people most”.
undoubtedly brings about the question area to a commercial and administrative to high rise residential buildings. The However, he also mentions that for him,
of finance. He says, “I cannot afford a neighborhood. first two floors on the Lebanon street Lebanon Street is within 30 minutes
taxi every day.” Not only on Lebanon are mainly occupied by commercial uses walking distance. Other transportation
Street but throughout Cairo, traffic is a such as cafes, restaurants, stores or banks. options include either a private car or a taxi,
considerable obstacle. These facilities and high-end apartment which brings with it financial difficulties
buildings produced employment and creates a poor working environment
Migration, a growing population and opportunities with people living in the within the city. Public transport only exists
mishandled traffic management lead to surrounding neighborhoods. “I am living on a few major roads in Cairo.
8 9
“Lebanon Street Ahmed Saied
27 years old
Nourhan Khaled
16 years old
“Because of shifts
is one of the most Accountant and Football Player
Lebanon Street
Secondary School Student
Lebanon Street
from informal
beautiful places in See related photos on page 38 - 41 See related photos on page 42 - 45
settlements, the area
Cairo.” loses its quality.”
Working at Lebanon Street for three Okba” creates a problem, it won’t effect Nourhan Khaled comes to Lebanon Street She feels that the people who come
years, Ahmed Saied is there almost every Lebanon street because of these security almost six days per week to shop, have to Lebanon Street from “Meet Okba”
day. He works five days per week and facilities. However, there are also some fun and meet with her friends. She is negatively affects her because she feels
hangs around the street the rest of a negative aspects of the area as it is too living at El-Sodan Street nearby Lebanon exposed to harassment. Furthermore, she
week because of the facilities it offers. expensive and crowded. Traffic jams are Street. She comes to the area by walking states that “because of these shifts from
He mentions that “Lebanon Street is one disastrous and there is a lack of space to half an hour or in 15 minutes by taxi. She informal settlements, the area loses its
of the most beautiful and comfortable park cars. is not willing to use public transportation. quality.”
places in Cairo.”
“Nowadays, the area turned into a Due to her age, she has not noticed any Therefore, she agreed on the removal or
Ahmed is living in the Al-Haram district commercial and administrative region”. change to the street. She is also not aware transformation of “Meet Okba” and all
which also offers various facilities. It is a That’s why foreign people mainly from of the political and economic events informal settlements like it. It has adverse
district where middle income people live. other Arabic countries are renting happening in the country. effects on the place and the people.
It takes 30 minutes to get to Lebanon apartments here in the summer season.
Street from his home by motorcycle. He Nourhan Khaled is happy to be here
says, “to reach Lebanon Street people Concerning the transformation of informal because the area is commercial, offering
mostly use taxis. They don’t use public settlements, he states that “I am not a resident her many services and facilities suitable
transport because it is not efficient.” He of the area. Even though, if I were, I wouldn’t for every need. While the street is
feels safe in the area because there are leave my life here and go anywhere else. So, I crowded, it is not a problem for her, and
security guards around and also one cannot agree with the removal of Meet Okba there are not many disadvantages of the
central police station. Even though “Meet even if it is informal and dangerous.” street except it is close to “Meet Okba”.
10 11
“The neighborhood Mohammed Helal
71 years old
Mr Samir
55 years old
“ We don’t go to
was intended by the Retired
Aswan Square
Building Materials Supplier
Al Falouga Street
them, they come to
government to be a See related photos on page 46 - 49 See related photos on page 50 - 53
us for commercial
model garden city.” purposes.”
Mohammed Helal has memories of the Mohammed sees the transformation as Aswan Square is bordered on its northern stores for building materials, vegetables,
time in which his four-story building damaging and emphasized the speed edge by Al-Haytya, an informal and carpenter workshops and car mechanics.
was the only luxury villa in the area of at which it took place, especially after tightly compacted cluster of mixed
Aswan Square, previously named “Fawzia the revolution. He talks about people housing, businesses and services. Despite the wealth disparity and stark
Princess”. His house, built on his father’s struggling to keep the shape of their contrast of urban form between the areas,
orders in 1956, has now ceased to be the houses, implying the pressure of the real Mr. Samir is a businessman, who was Al-Haytya was, as Mr. Samir recalls, built
place for summer retreats in 1962. His estate market. raised and has lived in Al-Haytya for 55 first. He remembers early Aswan Square as
family moved in permanently, and the years, with his family forming part of unused and vacant land which was then
remaining land started to be occupied Mohammed’s fondness for the early agricultural contract subdivisions. built up as villas for the middle classes. He
by other villas owned by actors and neighborhood of the past makes it The present-day Government is placing recalls the start of villa demolition seven
actresses, or businessmen like his father. hard for him to see any potential for pressure on Al-Haytya to demolish and years ago and their rebuilding to high rise
sustainable transformation in the area. He redevelop to be consistent with the flats for profit. He sees the challenge as
Mohammed could see the complete is caught in the web of the changes within modernity and density of changing not losing the valuable community and
transformation of his neighborhood as his history but indicates no opportunities Aswan Square, but luckily for Mr. Samir synergistic services provided in the area to
the planned garden-city space once filled for a brighter future. Mohammed’s speech and his community, Al-Haytya building lucrative development pressure. He does
with villas with front gardens fading away reflects the challenge of connecting the contracts prevail. not see an opportunity for transformative
as higher buildings began to emerge. older residents to the area they have at change for Aswan Square; rather that it
Neighbors were no longer known. The present. Aswan Square relies on Mr. Samir’s is bound to its present built form and
traffic that used to be an uncommon services amongst others, which offer a situation.
sight became a norm. variety of different businesses including
12 13
“Before it wasn’t so A’am Ashraf
67 years old
Nihal
27 years old
“ I just pass by. There
crowded. It was so Street Grocery Seller
Abou Al Karamat Street
Teaching Assistant at Cairo University
El Ashgar Street
is no place where you
quiet here.” See related photos on page 54 - 57 See related photos on page 58- 61
can stay and observe
the area.”
Aswan Square neighborhood caters He notices that more high rises fashioning The Aswan Square area has been a part Her vision for opportunities refers
to local inhabitants and visitors. A’am a classical and elegant downtown Cairo of Nihal’s life since birth, be it due to her precisely to how the spaces are not being
Ashrafi is a fresh grocery seller who has style are taking form along the streets, aunt living there or her simple need to used to their full potential. The green
operated his small family business from but also pricing out many longer-term walk through it weekly as she moves to areas are not prepared to receive visitors,
the Square’s street-edge for up to 20 businesses with hair salons. and from her own house in a neighboring and the sidewalks are not available for
years, placing him as a key observer to location. Her urban designer background pedestrians. Nihal describes how she
the surrounding streets’ changing social He regretfully noticed that the clientele enriches her perspective as a frequent moves from the footpaths occupied by
and physical landscape. In early days has changed with wealthy inhabitants visitor. everything except for people to the lanes
of trading, he sold to wealthy clientele being replaced by more every-day folk, where it is necessary to compete with the
inhabiting the local garden bordered who don’t always shop at his store. But Nihal admits that she never uses the constant flow of cars. The transformation
villas, with frequenting influential he is still known in this neighborhood, functions available at Aswan Square. She was not sustainable so far, but maybe it
actresses, politicians and businessmen. and that is why he stays. A key challenge remarks on the impossibility of doing can be for the future.
remains however, in how he should so. Even with the scarcity of open green
As the lower density character of the area maintain his business in this setting. areas in Cairo, she has no memory of ever Nihal completes her perspective referring
transitioned to higher rise development, He doesn’t see a likelihood of a playing in the square as a child or sitting to a great challenge: the heavy traffic,
he noticed that more and more people transformation on the horizon for Aswan there with friends as a teenager. No unplanned for in an area designed for the
neighbored on the edge of the Square, Square, just a continuation of the density surface invites the passers-by to stay. The low density of the villas. Most of these
crowding the streets with pedestrians and cars choking its streets. commercial function is not needed, as low-rise buildings do not exist anymore,
and vehicles, changing the once tidy, she can find the same type of businesses and the narrow streets do not correspond
quiet atmosphere to a flurry of activity. in more convenient places. to the current physical form of the area.
14 15
“I have no Farouk El-Danny
77 years old
Hajj Mohamed
73 years old
“Its image has been
pictures of the old Dry Cleaning Service Business Owner
Ismail Mohamed Street, Zamalek
Resident and Owner of a Supermarket
Ismail Mohamed Street, Zamalek
Transformed. Beggars
neighborhood, that is See related photos on page 62 - 65 See related photos on page 66 - 69
run after tourists”
my biggest regret”
Frouk El-Dany, a 77-year old owner of a and lack of maintenance as a result of Hajj Mohamed is 73 years old and owns of asphalt. These coatings then raised the
dry cleaning business, has been residing migration. He said that some of the villas a supermarket in Zamalek, where he level of the streets; elevated buildings
in Zamalek for 60 years. In the past, have been reused as the Faculty of Arts, was born. According to Hajj Mohamed, became the same as or below the current
according to Mr. El-Dany, Zamalek was converted into commercial purposes, the district was formerly inhabited by street level.
distinguished by high-class villas that or replaced by hundreds of apartment respectable and famous people who
were single-family homes with a private buildings. possessed good values. These inhabitants Mr. Mohamed also revealed that the
garden and garage. The produce of these protected Zamalek from intrusion, while concept of being neighbors and friends is
gardens contributed to the vast greenery Previously, from a one of Zamalek’s streets, maintaining the safety and cleanliness of now lost in Zamalek. Social behaviors have
of the island’s landscape. The streets also one could see the pyramids and the Nile. the community. changed negatively because of current
had enough room to facilitate walking as However, the view of these attractions residents and the neighborhood lacks
cars were kept in the private garages. has been blocked by the development of In the past regulations mandated a sense of security. Addressing a sweet
Mohandeseen and the buildings which buildings to make provision for garages potato vendor at the corner of the street,
He asserted that the quality of life in have been built along the shore of the and prohibited cars from parking on the he claims that this portrays the informal
Zamalek was tremendously affected Nile. street. He also said that the Nile served market which is ruining the image of the
during the 70’s, when lower class as a direct water supply, rich in silt, for area and occupying the streets.
Egyptians living in other districts earned “I miss the quiet in Zamalek,” he said, cultivation, thereby predominantly
enough money while working in the Gulf “I wish I could go back in time.” He now situated along the coast of the island. In the past, the district had few
States to move to the island. Examples describes Zamalek as an informal market In turn, fresh water was saved. He went kindergartens and primary schools. Today
he gave for Zamalek’s declining quality with informal vendors on the streets. on to explain that the drainage system there are large number of faculties today,
include the increased building density was destroyed and covered with layers complemented by banks and ministries.
16 17“This used to be a Hebba Bakri
59 years old
Abanob Michel
21 years old
“The rest of the streets
nice area...used to”. Managing Director at Hotel Longchamps
21 Ismail Mohamed Street, Zamalek
Department of Architecture Student
21 Ismail Mohamed Street, Zamalek
should be of high
See related photos on page 70 - 73 See related photos on page 74 - 77
priority, just like those
near embassies”
Hebba Bakri has been living and working people to stay out late. Customers at these Abanob is a 21-year old student who are now common as a result of numerous
in Zamalek since 2002. According to illegal establishments usually make noise recalls mingling with friends in Zamalek, road blocks and detours.
Hebba, the most noticeable changes and disturb neighboring residents. before undertaking his undergraduate
include the shift in the economic profile studies at the Faculty of Fine Arts five Elaborating on the traffic situation, he
of the district and the behavior of Hebba also recounted that over the years, years ago. He stated, “I think the number continued by pointing out parking as a
residents. the elegant villas have been replaced of students attending universities has major issue. He stated, “I think it’s easy
by awful multi-story buildings. She fears doubled in the past few years and has led to control the back streets and block
She is nostalgic about what the area used that the foundations of these high-rise to the opening of new shops including certain areas to avoid the unacceptable
to be, and pointed out that Zamalek buildings and sidewalks are giving way. cafés and the introduction of other behavior of outsiders. If the authorities
was traditionally characterized by services.” Though satisfied with these could manage the parking problem
affluent residents, some of which later As for the future, she shows special new additions to the district, he hopes and prioritized the affected streets like
moved out to new neighborhoods. This concern about the metro station under that more open spaces could be provided they did with those overlooked by the
made room for outsiders to occupy construction. According to Hebba, the for students to hold art-related activities, embassies and diplomatic complexes, it
the areas, bringing with them different metro would raise friction between social as well as for the provision of public would be better for everyone”.
behavior. Hebba argued that people classes, and possibly bring violence. toilets.
are now careless and there is a lack of a Abanob concluded by describing the
sense of community. Streets are littered At the end of the interview, as she heard According to Abanob, the construction of waterfront of Zamalek as a great asset,
indiscriminately attracting rats and stray a rooster crow, she said, “This is very new. the metro station, which began a couple with the potential to restore Zamalek’s old
cats to the area. In addition, several cafés It started three weeks ago. We have never of years ago, has caused streets to be charm.
operate without a permit and invite had this before in the area.” overcrowded – for example, traffic jams
18 19“This was the first A’m Mohamed
80 years old
Fawzy Mohammed
64 years old
“The bridge was the
high-rise building Car Parking Chief and Guide
26th of July Corridor
Chauffeur
Hassan Sabry Street
most useful element
to ever be built in See photos on page 78 - 81 See photos on page 82 - 85
in Zamalek.”
Zamalek.”
A’m Mohamed has been a parking choked by ferocious campaigns led by Fawzy Mohammed has been working Forty years ago, the streets were less
guide in Zamalek since 2014, but lives Zamalek’s residents. Finances were also for the past forty years as a chauffeur congested than today. As stated by Fawzy,
just across the Nile, in Bulaq Abou a challenge and so the owner, Al-Tonsy, for residents in Zamalek. He considers this is due to the replacement of the
El-Ela. He says, the traffic flow has been took a large loan from Al-Ahly Bank. Each himself a resident of Zamalek, as he villas with high rise buildings. The circular
congested here for a long time now but floor has four apartments, and when the works there six days a week, all day long. tower in Hassan Sabry Street, with the
once the new Metro station of Zamalek building was completed, Al-Tonsy sold the When Fawzy first started working here, SODIC logo on top, is a very prominent
is operational, Mohamed expects this apartments for 17,000 EGP, divided into the main tramway ran along the 26th of high-rise building in the neighborhood.
congestion will be relatively relieved. three installments. July Street, extending over a steel bridge. Construction was shut down by the
It will absorb a considerable fraction Over the years, when the 6th of October government, due to structural violations
of commuters coming into, and out of Some years after Egypt’s victory in the bridge was under construction, the steel and has since remained abandoned.
Zamalek every day. 1973 war, the real estate market prices bridge was demolished, and its material Fawzy says, that homeowners of Zamalek,
soared, and the same apartments would was recycled to build the linking bridge are not enthusiastic about the opening
Mohamed was originally a reinforced sell at 120,000 EGP, whereas a villa - also between Zamalek and El Mohandeseen. of the new metro station as they worry
concrete worker. He took part in the built and owned by Al-Tonsy - was sold to He mentioned that remains of the bridge about the consequences it could have
construction of the Al-Tonsy building a Saudi Arabian man for millions. It is then can be found at the Marriott Hotel. on their buildings infrastructure. In his
in Al-Gabalaya street in the 1970’s. This obvious, how, with worsening economic perspective, however, it presents a great
was the first high-rise building to ever conditions, it became very lucrative for In his perspective, the bridge was the opportunity for people like himself, who
be built in Zamalek. By that time, there others to follow that same path. It was most useful element in Zamalek, as work in Zamalek, but live on the outside.
were only villas in the area. So, the at that point, that Al-Tonsy turned from it connects downtown to the 6th of Fawzy could then get to work in 30
revolutionary project was repeatedly engineer to businessman. October City, southwest of Cairo. minutes, rather than 2 hours.
20 21“The Northerners Email Nashed Salaman
72 years old
Effat Nermine
63 years old
“The metro station
focused on money; Stationary Seller
Hassan Assem Street
Psychiatrist
Shagaret Al Dor Street
will destruct
Southerners cared See related photos on page 86 - 89 See related photos on page 90 - 93
Zamalek - It will be a
about quality of life.” catastrophe”
The increase of Zamalek’s population, increased the number of visitors to Effat Nermine has been a resident in that this connection will bring even more
commencing with Egypt’s policy of an the area. This causes congestion in the Zamalek for 30 years. She lives here with low-income people to her neighborhood.
open economy, caused the change from streets, which were designed to support her husband and children. To commute However, she enthusiastically describes
two-way streets to one-way streets, as residential buildings of up to two stories. to her work in Heliopolis, she uses her car how during valentines day, the island
found in Zamalek today, says Salaman. The increased number of users on each every day. The trip takes her about one becomes crowded with couples,
At the southern side of the 26th of July plot of land, due to larger buildings with hour. celebrating their love and flower vendors.
corridor, the stakeholders abide by the intensified use, was not considered during
rules and building regulations, keeping the urban planning phase. The transformation Effat Nermine has Nermine claims to have seen no major
the ground floors of the buildings as witnessed, is the neighborhood getting changes to the building stock in the last
non-commercial. Opposite, the northern The ground floors in the northern part of more crowded and more “creeps” trying years. But she does mention differences
stakeholders did not abide by these laws Zamalek, contrary to the original plan of to make a living in the area. Furthermore, between the north and south of the
and transformed the buildings ground accommodating parked vehicles, foreign tenants are increasingly preferred 26th of July street. Those differences
floor into commercial space. According where transformed into retail space, over Arabs in her building. go back to the historic beginning of
to Salaman, the northerners were rather increasing the demand for parking areas, the urban development in the south.
focused on money, while the Southerners simultaneously reducing the availability. Nermine believes that the metro In her opinion this is the fancier part of
cared more about their quality of life. Additionally, Salaman criticizes, the new station will destruct Zamalek and be a Zamalek. However, Nermine mentions
high-rise buildings for not always abiding catastrophe for the neighborhood. As the popularity of living in the north, the
He claims, that the cooperative complex by the original plot parameters, therefore the new metro line will connect Al-Es’af, so-called Bahari (towards the sea) of
in Zamalek and the establishment of encroaching on the formerly wide an informal settlement, with the elite Zamalek, since the prevailing north wind
institutions, such as schools and colleges pedestrian sidewalk. neighborhood of Zamalek. Nermine fears provides natural cooling.
22 23“I used to observe Rawya Famol
74 years old
Mohamed Shaikon
32 years old
“There are a lot of
Um-kelsom’s villa Retired
El-Malek El-Fadl Street
Antique Shop Owner
Abou El Feda Street
restaurants and cafes
from my porch.” See related photos on page 94 - 97 See related photos on page 98 - 101
here that we do not
need.”
Rawya is now 74 years old and lives in El Rawya no longer relates to the Island of Princes - this is how Zamalek Like so many others on the same street,
Zamalek since the age of thirteen. Rawya, neighborhood as much since it has gone used to be known, back when all the Mohamed’s shop facade has recently
her husband, daughter, and grandson all through its profound transformation. streets were named after a member of been renovated. Now his impression is
share a small two-bedroom apartment Where there used to be the villa, a the royalty. That is part of the history that that, on the street level, some of the shops
on El-Malek El-Fadl street. She has fifteen-story hotel now rises in front of the Mohamed Shaikon remembers about look more modern than the neighboring
witnessed the transformation of the Nile. The Nile is also not as clean as it used the area. He is 32 years old and owns an buildings - spoiling the identity of the
area from farmland, to a bustling to be. antique shop on Abou El Feda Street. original architecture.
neighborhood with intense traffic and
new buildings. Even though the price Rawya pays for Today, some of the remaining palaces A metro station is about to open nearby,
renting her apartment is considerably were given other uses, such as universities although not all the residents and
She used to sit on a swinging chair on the below the market value, she dreams and schools, he says. Mohamed misses business owners support the idea. From
porch, smoking a cigarette and sipping of moving to the 6th of October area, the view of the Nile River he once had. Mohamed’s point of view, the metro will
coffee. From her porch, Rawya could see where she could go back to experiencing Due to the excessive bars and restaurants only increase insecurity and bring more
the famous Egyptian artist Um-kelsom’s comfort and beauty. along the river-banks, and boats traffic, noise, and pollution.
villa. With joy in her eyes, she expresses causing ripples, he is no longer able to
how much she loved the singer and see the river. The narrow streets in the
how comforting it was to sit there and neighborhood now accommodate more
appreciate time passing by. activities than they were initially planned
for, resulting in intense foot and vehicle
traffic.
24 25“Zamalek is not as Esmael Rafat
43 years old
Rashwan Tawfeek
86 years old
“I wish I could see the
inviting as it used to Guard
Abou El Feda Street
Actor
Abou El Feda Street
Nile River from my
be.” See related photos on page 102 - 105 See related photos on page 106 - 109
terrace once again.”
Esmael Rafat has lived on the northern past few years, the streets have filled with The famous Egyptian actor, Rashwan the new station among his neighbors, he
bank of the Gezira island for the last 20 noise and constant traffic jams. Lack of Tawfeek, has been renting an apartment explains that some are afraid of vibrations
years. He works as a guard for one of the parking space became one of the biggest in Zamalek since 1960. Like many affecting the older structures.
historic residential buildings erected in problems, Ismael points out. other buildings in the neighborhood,
the neighborhood during the middle his building used to be a club for local Formerly farm-land, Zamalek turned into a
of the 20th century. He used to require New buildings and uncontrolled extensive residents. In the past he enjoyed walking neighborhood with classical architecture
special permission to enter the island, vegetation grew on the Nile embankment by the Nile with his wife - now impossible during the King Ismaeel era. The “amazing
and he enjoyed the privacy. and hid the river from people’s eyes. As because of all the clubs occupying the villas” on Abu El Feda Street were illegally
such, Esmael hopes the city will take care river bank since the 1970’s. demolished and turned into taller
Loving the silent beauty of old Zamalek, of green spaces along the river Nile so he buildings. Rashwan adds that nowadays
Esmael does not look forward to the new could enjoy the view he loves so much When the university is in session, Abu El these buildings’ facades are dirty and
metro station which he believes will affect again. He wishes Zamalek could return Feda Street can get very crowded. Most should be renovated.
the existing infrastructure and cause to be as calm and green as it used to be students would like more parking, but
further crowding on the island. during the King Farouk era. residents generally oppose the idea, as He explains that there is no room for
they benefit from the private garages. more green space. The existing trees on
Until 2007, a bus station served as the The actor sees the new metro station the streets show signs of dehydration
main transportation source for residents in Zamalek as a good opportunity for while the trees along the Nile are growing
and visitors of Zamalek. Following new students and local workers to commute too much and darkening the banks. He
developments on the island, traffic to Zamalek, while reducing the number envisions shorter trees and clubs that do
became much more intense. Over the of cars. Concerning the opposition to not harm the view of the river.
26 27رسديات شفهية Visual Narratives
توثق املقابالت للتحوالت العمرانية من وجهة نظر The interviews served as inspiration to
كام أنها كانت مصدر.الساكنني والزائرين للمنطقة photographically capture elements of
.الهام للصور the urban transformation.
28 2930 31
32 33
34 35
36 37
38 39
40 41
42 43
44 45
46 46 47 47
48 48 49 49
50 51
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56 57
58 59
60 61
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64 65
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68 69
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78 79
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84 85
86 87
88 89
90 91
92 93
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96 97
98 99
100 101
102 103
104 105
106 107
108 109
رسديات برصية Closing
.بعض من مظاهر التحوالت العمرانية تم توثيقها فوتوغرافيا Together these visual and oral narratives
provide a glimpse of the past, capture
the present, and serve to inspire the
future. While residents and visitors
may have found it easier to look back
nostalgically at how it once was, it is
reminder that looking forward is just as
important to be able to envision, plan
and implement measures which can
transform the city sustainably.
110 111Zamalek
Abou El Feda Street
Zamalek
Ismael Mohammed Street
Zamalek
26th of July Street
Mohandeseen
Lebanon Street
Mohandeseen
Aswan Square
[m] 500 Source: Google Earth 7.1.8 (10.02.2018). Cairo. 30°03’13.46” N, 31°12’41.85” E,
elevation 0M. DigitalGlobe. Viewed 03.12.2008.
112 113االفتتاحية
القاهرة ،مثل العديد من املدن الكربى األخرى ،شهدت تحوالت عدة
عىل مدار تاريخها الطويل .فعىل الرغم من بقاء بعض اآلثار التي تعود
إىل عهود سابقة ،أهمها أهرامات الجيزة ،إال أن الكثري من أوجه املدينة
األصلية قد اختفى .فالواقع العمراىن الحايل للقاهرة املتسم بالكثافة
العالية وطغيان املباين املغطاة بطبقة من الغبار وانتشار املشكالت
البيئية يصعب معه تخيل أن قلب القاهرة التاريخى كان محاطا
باألراىض الخصبة الخرضاء والبحريات فقط منذ قرن مىض.
تعترب القاهرة أكرب املدن املليونية يف أفريقيا ،وهي يف تحول مستمر
سواء بشكل رسمي أو غري رسمي .ىف إطار جهود توجيه هذه التحوالت
وتحجيم النمو الالرسمى عىل ما تبقى من األرض الخصبة ،قامت
الجهات الحكومية بتخطيط ومتويل عدد من املدن الجديدة التي تم
بناؤها وسكنها .إال أنه ىف نفس الوقت ،حلت األبراج مكان الفيالت
ذات الطابع الفاخر يف املناطق الرسمية بقلب املدينة مثل الزمالك
واملهندسني .أدى هذا التحول يف الزمالك إىل هروب الكثري من سكان
الطبقة العليا إىل السكن يف املدن الصحراوية الجديدة تاركني العمران
للتداعى .أما املهندسني فتحولها قد أدى إىل أنها أصبحت أعىل املناطق
سعرا يف املدينة واختفاء مالمح املدينة الحدائقية التي كانت تحكم
تخطيط هذه املنطقة عند نشأتها .وعىل الرغم من االحتياج الشديد
لالهتامم بتطوير املناطق الالرسمية وتنمية املدن الصحراوية ،إال أنه من
املهم أيضا التعلم من املاىض لتوجيه التحوالت املستقبلية ملناطق قلب
املدينة مثل الزمالك واملهندسني .الجزء التاىل يبحث يف التحوالت مبناطق
مختارة مبنطقة املهندسني حول شارع لبنان وميدان أسوان ،باإلضافة إىل
مناطق مختارة بالزمالك شامل نادى الجزيرة الرياىض.
114 115 جيلونا هافريكو- ولفجانج ديكهاوت- جونتان فيجنوال- مايا دينلسون This publication was developed as part of the workshop Cairo’s
التحوالت العمرانية للقاهرة Urban Transformation, which took place in Cairo in November
2018 as part of a three year collaboration between the Cairo
رسديات الزمالك واملهندسني University and the HafenCity University, funded by the
Deutscher Akademischer Austauschdeinst (DAAD) program
Higher Education Dialogue with the Muslim World.
Workshop Team:
Prof. Dr. Sahar Attia, Cairo University
Prof. Dr.-Ing. Wolfgang Dickhaut, HafenCity University Hamburg
M.Sc. REAP Maya Donelson, HafenCity University Hamburg
Dr. Sherin Gammaz, Cairo University
M. Sc. Arch. Xhelona Haveriku, HafenCity University Hamburg
Prof. Dr. Heba Allah E. Khalil, Cairo University
Dipl.-Ing. Sonja Schlipf , HafenCity University Hamburg
M.Sc. REAP Gionatan Vignola, HafenCity University Hamburg
116 117مايا دينلسون -جونتان فيجنوال -ولفجانج ديكهاوت -جيلونا هافريكو
التحوالت العمرانية للقاهرة
رسديات الزمالك واملهندسني
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